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There Is No Excuse for Ye’s ‘White Lives Matter’ Shirt

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There Is No Excuse for Ye’s ‘White Lives Matter’ Shirt

PARIS — Yeezy is lifeless. Lengthy reside YZY. Stage three of the ambitions of Ye — the artist previously generally known as Kanye West — to decorate the world has begun.

Presumably that was presupposed to be the takeaway from the shock present of Paris Style Week, held off-schedule in an empty workplace tower simply down the highway from the Arc de Triomphe.

Although it turned out to be solely nominally a style present and extra like “The YZY Expertise”: a chaotic mess of self-justification, confessional, bone-picking and messianic ambition, with a “White Lives Matter” shot of shock and provocation that overshadowed the garments on the runway.

The rumors started through the weekend, only a day or so earlier than the Balenciaga mud present. Ye was in Paris and was going to stage a style present — just a little greater than two weeks after ending his much-ballyhooed partnership with Hole.

Perhaps it might occur Monday? Perhaps not; Ye had simply fired his PR company. No wait, it was occurring; he had discovered one other company. Then, Sunday night time, a digital invite arrived. For the following night. Visitors have been requested to not share the tackle.

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Monday at 5:45 p.m., the Avenue de la Grande Armée was heaving with screaming followers and photographers. A lot for secrecy. They outnumbered the present’s precise attendees by what appeared like 100 to at least one.

Nonetheless, Anna Wintour got here. So did John Galliano. Demna, the Balenciaga designer, and Cédric Charbit, its chief govt. Alexandre Arnault, the chief advertising and marketing officer of Tiffany & Firm and a son of the LVMH chieftain Bernard Arnault. Then all of them sat, enjoying with the soap-on-rope that seemed like three granite blocks and had been left on each seat, ready an hour and a half for the present to start. (Properly, OK, Anna and John left earlier than the entire thing ended, however that was as a result of they’d one other appointment, Ms. Wintour mentioned.)

It was nearly as good a mirrored image as something this week of simply how the tradition and energy construction of style and leisure has modified previously decade. As a result of it was 11 years in the past, in early October 2011, that Ye held his first style present in Paris.

The road at the moment was referred to as “Kanye West.” Heavy on the posh frills — leather-based and fur and gold {hardware} — it was extensively dismissed by its viewers. However this time there they have been, the powers that be of the business, leaping on the final minute to see what Ye needed to ship.

Which concerned a reside choir that includes a bunch of youngsters from Ye’s new Donda Academy in California in addition to his daughter, North, and commenced along with his rambling speech about critics who complained about his reveals being late; his former supervisor, Scooter Braun; his hospitalization (Ye has been recognized with bipolar dysfunction); the ache of being referred to as “loopy”; critics who complained that his garments won’t be properly made; the individuals at Hole who didn’t get his imaginative and prescient; Bernard Arnault, whom he referred to as “his new Drake”; and the information that he was establishing yet one more model of his personal style home and it began now.

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As a result of “we modified the look of style during the last 10 years. We’re the streets. We’re the tradition.” And relating to the tradition, “I’m Ye, and everybody is aware of I’m the chief.”

Besides this chief was sporting an oversize shirt with a photograph of Pope John Paul II and the phrases “Seguiremos tu ejemplo” (“We are going to observe your instance”) on the entrance, and “White Lives Matter” on the again — a phrase that the Anti-Defamation League has referred to as hate speech and attributed to white supremacists (together with the Ku Klux Klan), who started utilizing it in 2015 in response to the Black Lives Matter motion.

The shirt was inconceivable to overlook as a result of, as he spoke, Ye’s picture was projected behind him on a wall 4 tales excessive.

Apart from, Candace Owens, the conservative commentator, was within the viewers and sporting one, too. Later the shirt appeared as a part of the gathering, modeled by Selah Marley, the daughter of Lauryn Hill and granddaughter of Bob Marley. (Matthew M. Williams, the Givenchy designer who labored with Mr. West earlier in his profession; Michéle Lamy, Rick Owen’s spouse; and Naomi Campbell additionally walked within the present.)

It was the one message garment within the line, which was referred to as SZN9 in reference to the Yeezy reveals that had come earlier than, created along with Shayne Oliver, the previous designer of Hood By Air (Ye is nothing if not an incredible spotter and cultivator of expertise). Which made it stand out much more in a present in any other case centered on clothes that might merely be pulled onto the physique, with no {hardware} — buttons or zips or snaps — concerned, an concept that Ye first started speaking about within the context of his work with Hole.

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Because it occurred, quite a lot of this line seemed like that line, particularly that a part of that line engineered with Balenciaga’s Demna, together with the full-body catsuits that opened the present, the duvet-like puffer ponchos, the blouson jackets and sweats that made the torso right into a kind of steroid-filled G.I. Joe triangle, the dearth of seams and the semi-apocalyptic palette.

It has potential, however the import obtained swamped by the shirt, what it symbolized, and the way its endorsement by a determine akin to Ye — even one with a observe file of sporting MAGA hats and toying with Accomplice imagery — could possibly be used as a rallying cry by those that already purchase into its message.

“Indefensible conduct,” wrote Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, the Vogue editor, on Instagram. Later including, “there isn’t any excuse, there isn’t any artwork right here.” Jaden Smith, within the viewers, walked out. So did Lynette Nylander, the Dazed author and editor.

The subsequent day, on the Chanel present, Edward Enninful, the editor of British Vogue and essentially the most highly effective Black man in style media, referred to as the shirt “inappropriate” and “insensitive, given the state of the world.”

Ms. Nylander had posted, “It doesn’t matter what the intention was … it’s notion to the lots out of context.”

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Certainly, ultimately, it’s the shirt out of context that made the information: not Ye’s theories about gown, or his allegations that Mr. Arnault promised to set him up in his personal home after which reneged and now has grow to be Ye’s greatest competitors (an LVMH consultant mentioned Mr. Arnault had “no remark”); not even Ye’s assertion that, having disrupted the style week highlight, he nonetheless felt “at warfare.” If that’s the case, this was a grenade that backfired.

As to why he did it, backstage Ye declined to supply any theoretical framework. “It says all of it,” he mentioned, of the shirt. However what precisely does it say?

That he actually believes he can acceptable the language of racial violence with irony? That sometime the facility construction of Black and white might be reversed, and since he says this assortment is the long run, that’s the world he envisions? That Ye will get a kick out of pushing everybody’s buttons? That he needs to see how far he can go and doesn’t actually care about, or take into consideration, the collateral harm within the meantime (together with to these kids singing at his toes), regardless of the violence this might feed?

Or that, as he mentioned in his speech, “You’ll be able to’t handle me. That is an unmanageable state of affairs.”

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Netflix's 'Baby Reindeer': A dark, haunting story bungles its depiction of queerness

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Netflix's 'Baby Reindeer': A dark, haunting story bungles its depiction of queerness

Richard Gadd as Donny in Baby Reindeer. The new Netflix series is based on Gadd’s autobiographical one-man show.

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Richard Gadd as Donny in Baby Reindeer. The new Netflix series is based on Gadd’s autobiographical one-man show.

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Note: You can’t really talk about this series without discussing a major revelation that occurs in episode four of its seven-episode season. So be warned: Spoilers ahead.

There’s a reason that the first scene in the first episode of Baby Reindeer, now streaming on Netflix, plays like it’s a classic setup to a joke: Woman walks into a bar.

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Creator and star Richard Gadd is setting our expectations exactly where he wants them set; he needs us to think that the story he’ll tell us over the next seven episodes will conform to the narrative contours of dark comedy.

He’s already tipped us off that the comedy in question will be dark indeed, via a framing device that opens the show: We see his character Donny Dunn filing a police report that he’s being stalked by a woman named Martha (Jessica Gunning).

Cut to six months earlier: Martha enters the pub where Donny tends bar. Everything that follows is meant to place us inside Donny’s head. As he tells us about her, we can’t help but see her as he does: A sad, fat, pitiable middle-aged woman who’s clearly lying about her life. She’s not the high-powered lawyer she says she is – if she were, surely she could afford to buy a drink. And why would she spend all those potentially billable hours bellied up at Donny’s bar whenever he’s working a shift? And why would she proceed to send him thousands of unhinged text messages and stalk him, his girlfriend, and his family?

Right, we think. We know what we’re in for: Baby Reindeer is the story of one hapless young man getting cruelly stalked by a mentally ill woman, who, it turns out, has a history, and a criminal record, for doing so.

Moreover, it’s a true story. True-ish, anyway, as Baby Reindeer is based on Gadd’s autobiographical one-man show.

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But Gadd soon complicates our understanding of events. It turns out Donny is a struggling would-be comedian; we watch a series of his cringeworthy sets before sparse, stone-faced audiences. He seems depressed and friendless – his work colleagues at the bar are hostile louts; he’s living with his ex-girlfriend’s mother on the outskirts of London.

Plus there’s the nagging fact that while Donny may not actively encourage Martha’s fawning attention, he is awfully passive about shutting down her determination that they could get together, even as she grows more insistent, and more threatening.

Also, as the cop asks him at the start of the first episode. Why did he let it all go on for six months before filing a formal complaint?

Jessica Gunning as Martha.

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Jessica Gunning as Martha.

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The rug-pull

The answer to that question is what Baby Reindeer is truly about. It’s where the conventional and familiar trappings of dark comedy and psychological thriller fall away to reveal the show’s true, beating heart: Sexual abuse, and its lingering aftermath.

It isn’t until episode four that we learn that five years before Martha entered his life, Donny met a successful television writer named Darrien (Tom Goodman-Hill) who gave him career advice, promised to set him up with opportunities, and supplied him with drugs. During those sessions, while Donny was helpless to stop him, Darrien would sexually abuse him.

This, the series proceeds to argue – far too tidily – is the answer to everything. It’s why Donny became the depressed, self-loathing man we’ve come to know. It’s why his comedy career stalled. It’s why he’s since chosen to degrade himself by having meaningless sex with both men and women, doing more drugs, and by developing an interest in “extreme” pornography.

It’s also, of course – or so the show would have us believe – why he was so disarmed and flattered by the attention Martha gave him, which seems (compared to the drug-filled sexual cesspits he once frequented) pure and wholesome and, not for nothing, reassuringly straight. At one point Donny guiltily admits to us that, at his very lowest point, he even started to find Martha – imagine that! a fat woman! – sexually arousing.

It’s this aspect of Baby Reindeer – Gadd/Donny’s ultimate willingness to confront his abuse and explore its aftereffects – which has earned the show its most fulsome praise from critics and audiences. But in practice, the series repeatedly and clumsily conflates the horror of abuse with the simple fact of queer sexuality. Purely for dramatic purposes, Baby Reindeer implies that Donny’s sexuality conforms to the laws of cause (the abuse) and effect (queerness). Worse, it does so in a way that seems specifically designed to reassure those audiences who believe queerness is something that happens to people, something that can be triggered from the outside.

Catching queerness like a cold

Let me be clear: Baby Reindeer is not making any kind of broad sexual/political case that same-sex abuse leads its victims to experience same-sex desire. Neither is it saying that all putatively straight men who get sexually abused by other men will henceforth be attracted to trans women.

But it does want us to believe – in fact it entirely depends upon us believing – that Donny, for one, experienced same-sex desire only after his abuse – desire it goes out of its way to depict as filthy and degrading. It does, too, want us to believe that Donny failed to make any romantic connections with women or men after his abuse – until he met Teri (Nava Mau) on a trans dating site.

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Gadd himself identifies as bisexual, which makes it all the more puzzling and frustrating that, again and again, the series takes absurd pains to present Donny as someone who is not at all like the kinds of queer folk who (shudder!) willingly have sex with each other and (shock horror!) use recreational drugs and (gasp!) watch porn.

Rest assured, straight audiences: Donny’s queer sexuality was something forced upon him – a fact that his stoic father (Mark Lewis Jones) understands and underscores because, as he tearfully explains to his son, “I grew up in the Catholic Church.”

It’s a jaw-dropping scene, but not for the reason it wants to be. It’s meant as a moment of startling honesty and searing empathy between father and son.

It plays like a tasteless, homophobic joke.

Sticking the dismount

For all its queasy discomfort with, and prissy diffidence about queer sexuality, there is one thing Baby Reindeer gets absolutely, hauntingly right: Its ending.

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As the series concludes, Martha has been jailed for stalking Donny. In a thinner, less resonant series, our hero would take this as an unalloyed victory, as vindication. But smartly, Gadd shows us a Donny who has acknowledged his abuse but has only begun to effectively deal with it.

Donny, instead, wallows. He walks the streets, playing Martha’s tender/terrifying voicemails in his headphones. He sets out to confront his abuser, only to cave and accept a job working for him. He shambles through his life alone, until he enters a pub (Man walks into a bar) and realizes he can’t pay for his drink. The handsome bartender comps him out of pity, just as Donny did to Martha in the first episode. The end.

… OK, that pity-drink callback at the very end is a bit on-the-nose, but the series’ refusal to afford Donny a clear, uncomplicated, once-and-for-all victory is a smart one. Had the series ended with a sense of triumph and finality, it would have been dramatically satisfying but emotionally dishonest. Human psychology is more complex than that, and the damage done by abuse more insidious.

When we leave him, Donny is still trapped by his past, because he hasn’t yet done the work he needs to do. He still believes he deserves to be trapped, defined, by what happened to him.

But the series plants the seeds for the change that we know is coming: When he’s alone in that room of his, he’s turning his experience into the one-man show that will become Baby Reindeer. It’s that process of transmutation and creation that will ultimately allow him to process his abuse and turn it into something that engages with the wider world, and grant him the ability, finally, to heal.

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Maybe, in the process, he will manage to move past finding other queer folk and fat people disgusting. Baby Reindeer suggests that Richard Gadd hasn’t quite managed to do that, yet.

But I’m holding out hope for Donny.

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Harvey Weinstein's Conviction in California Solid, L.A. D.A.'s Office Says

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Harvey Weinstein's Conviction in California Solid, L.A. D.A.'s Office Says

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PEN America ceremony canceled due to protest, Tony Kushner will donate prize money

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PEN America ceremony canceled due to protest, Tony Kushner will donate prize money

Playwright Ayad Akhtar on stage at the 2023 PEN America Literary Awards in his role as then-president of the organization.

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Playwright Ayad Akhtar on stage at the 2023 PEN America Literary Awards in his role as then-president of the organization.

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This story has been updated.

Playwright and screenwriter Tony Kushner tells NPR he will donate the $25,000 purse that comes with the PEN/Mike Nichols Writing for Performance Award, for which he is this year’s recipient.

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In an email, the Pulitzer Prize, Tony and Emmy-winning writer said that when he receives the award, “I will donate half the money to Jewish Voice for Peace and half to UNRWA, earmarked for relief work in Gaza.” Kushner is a member of the Jewish Voice for Peace advisory board.

Kushner is one of many artists who’ve called for a ceasefire in Gaza. In an interview with the Haaretz Podcast in March, he said, “If you had asked me, even on October 7, would Israel allow, 30,000 people, many of them civilians, to be killed by the IDF I would have said no.”

The Israel-Hamas war has killed over 34,000 Palestinians, according to health officials in Gaza. Israel invaded Gaza in response to an attack by the militant organization Hamas on Oct. 7 that killed around 1,200 people, mostly civilians.

A production of Kushner’s Angels in America is currently on stage in Tel Aviv. He also co-wrote the screenplay for Steven Spielberg’s Munich which is getting renewed attention in light of Israel’s war with Hamas.

“In both his art and activism, Tony Kushner compels us to confront uncomfortable truths about the 21st century,” PEN America wrote in its announcement, “helping us feel our way towards a better future and aspire toward a more just and compassionate world.”

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The PEN/Mike Nichols honor is one of PEN America’s career achievement awards. “The winner is selected by an internal, anonymous judging panel,” according to the organization.

PEN America literary awards ceremony canceled

PEN America canceled its annual literary awards ceremony after nearly half of the writers and translators nominated withdrew their books from consideration.

The awards will still be granted to those who did not withdraw, though the ceremony, which was scheduled for Monday, April 29 in New York, will not go on. Writer and comedian Jena Friedman had been lined up to host the event.

An open letter signed by a number of writers to PEN America’s leadership reads, “We reject these honors conferred by your organization in protest of your failure to confront the genocide in Gaza.”

They contend that PEN America was slow to denounce “the incomparable loss of Palestinian life” and that when the organization finally did, its statement lacked “proportional empathy.”

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“We greatly respect that writers have followed their consciences, whether they chose to remain as nominees in their respective categories or not,” said Clarisse Rosaz Shariyf, PEN America’s head of literary programming, in a statement. “As an organization dedicated to freedom of expression and writers, our commitment to recognizing and honoring outstanding authors and the literary community is steadfast.”

In February, Palestinian-American writer Randa Jarrar was dragged out of a PEN America event in Los Angeles after she and other writers used a portable speaker to play the names of writers and poets killed in Gaza. The event featured actor Mayim Bialik, who has supported Israel on social media.

The PEN America awards come with different-sized cash prizes. The foundation behind the PEN/Jean Stein Book Award said that Stein was a “passionate advocate for Palestinian rights” and said that it had directed PEN to donate the unawarded $75,000 to the Palestine Children’s Relief Fund.

PEN said that winners who did not withdraw from consideration will receive their cash prizes, including playwright and screenwriter Tony Kushner, who will be honored with the PEN/Mike Nichols Writing for Performance Award.

This story was edited by Jennifer Vanasco.

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