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Native American Jewelers and Collectors Converge in Santa Fe

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Native American Jewelers and Collectors Converge in Santa Fe

SANTA FE, N.M. — Tens of hundreds of artwork collectors, aficionados and spectators are anticipated to converge in and across the central Santa Fe Plaza subsequent month to take a look at the work of tons of of Native American artists providing a few of their best jewellery, pots, work and different items on the market.

The annual Santa Fe Indian Market, which is celebrating its centennial this 12 months, is directly a festive, multigenerational reunion of household and associates; an opportunity for artists to compete for awards and recognition; a multimillion-dollar financial engine for Santa Fe and New Mexico; and an vital supply of revenue for Native American artists and their communities.

“Folks come from all around the world — Germany, Paris, Japan — to see all of our artists in a single spot in a single weekend,” mentioned Ken Williams Jr., who manages the Case Buying and selling Publish gross sales room on the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian in Santa Fe. Mr. Williams, who’s Arapaho and Seneca, used to indicate his personal beadwork at Indian Market.

“It’s an incredible factor that that is nonetheless going after 100 years,” he mentioned by cellphone. “It’s an incredible place for the artist to be.”

This 12 months’s Indian Market on Aug. 20-21 could have near 650 cubicles and have greater than 800 artists, in accordance with Kimberly Peone, govt director of the Southwestern Affiliation for Indian Arts, often known as SWAIA, which sponsors the occasion. These are artists who belong to federally acknowledged tribes throughout america and Canada and who’ve utilized and been accepted into the juried present. Jewellery is the classification that pulls probably the most candidates, mentioned Ms. Peone, 54, a member of the Colville Confederated Tribes and the Jap Band of Cherokee Indians.

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At Indian Market, “you actually go all out in your designs,” mentioned Ellouise Toya, 53, a jeweler from the Kewa Pueblo tribe (also referred to as Santo Domingo Pueblo) in New Mexico. Her work contains reversible pendant necklaces with a number of strands of handmade heishi beads that she cuts from uncooked serpentine or turquoise stones or different supplies corresponding to ironwood or seashells, after which grinds and polishes.

“That’s the time to indicate your most outrageous piece, and persons are loving it, and it conjures up you extra,” she mentioned in an interview in her workshop simply south of Santa Fe. Her dad and mom, the now-retired jewelers Don and Nancy Crespin, began taking her to Indian Market when she was 10. “They’d take me to assist them do gross sales, as a result of I used to be very talkative,” mentioned Ms. Toya, whose enterprise known as Ellouise Originals.

The jewellery class on the market is broad sufficient to embody a wealthy number of types — conventional to up to date, summary to figurative — however artists should meet detailed requirements associated to supplies, methods and instruments. For instance, restricted, signed editions of some kinds of solid jewellery are allowed, with disclosure, however artists might not use color-treated supplies corresponding to blue onyx or artificial opal.

Final 12 months, the best-of-class award for jewellery went to the Alaska Native artist Denise Wallace of the Chugach Sugpiaq individuals, for “Origins, Roots and Sources,” a five-piece belt that integrated totally different masks and figures to discover points associated to girls’s rights, gender equality, social justice and the setting. She used supplies as numerous as fossilized walrus tusk, lapis, pink coral, silver and gold.

“I typically consider myself extra as a storyteller than as a jeweler,” Ms. Wallace, 65, mentioned in a video interview from her dwelling close to Hilo, Hawaii.

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Indian Market, she mentioned, tends to deliver out artists’ greatest work and push them to do higher, perhaps even to go in a brand new course. “It’s in regards to the skill to stretch your self. It offers you that focus,” she mentioned.

SWAIA calls the Santa Fe Indian Market the world’s largest and most acclaimed Native American arts present. Different high-caliber Native American markets happen all through america — together with one held in March on the Heard Museum in Phoenix; in June on the Autry Museum of the American West in Los Angeles and on the Eiteljorg Museum in Indianapolis. Many artists take part in a number of exhibits yearly.

However the SWAIA market stands out, not solely due to its sheer dimension and lengthy historical past however as a result of it takes place on the Santa Fe Plaza and within the surrounding streets, changing into the nucleus for a bunch of parallel actions. These now embody Native American markets at native motels and museums; the Free Indian Market, a couple of blocks from the plaza; and the Pathways Indigenous Arts Pageant hosted by Pojoaque Pueblo, simply north of Santa Fe. For days, town hums with gallery receptions, museum displays, music performances, dances and occasional protests round Indigenous points.

“I all the time name it Mardi Gras for those that love Native artwork,” mentioned America Meredith, 50, in a video interview. She is a citizen of the Cherokee Nation who participated in Indian Market as a painter for a few years and is now the writer and editor of First American Artwork Journal.

A examine performed in 2018 for town of Santa Fe by the market analysis agency Southwest Planning & Advertising discovered that almost 97,000 individuals had attended the occasion that 12 months, some greater than as soon as; it estimated the variety of particular person guests at greater than 56,500 and distributors and their employees within the cubicles at near 2,000. Primarily based on a survey of attendees, the examine decided that guests had spent near $56 million on artwork and that the occasion had a complete financial affect of $165.3 million. The artists additionally spent cash, the examine discovered — together with a mean of $652 on lodging for out-of-town distributors and $574 on charges to SWAIA. (This 12 months, sales space charges vary from $440 to $770, relying on dimension, SWAIA mentioned.)

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After two atypical pandemic-driven years — the occasion went digital in 2020 and had about 150 fewer cubicles in 2021 — organizers and artists mentioned they have been longing for it to return to regular. This 12 months, the market shall be free to the general public, after a 12 months through which organizers charged admission to cowl what SWAIA mentioned was the price of Covid-related crowd management and speak to tracing.

Nanibaa Beck, a second-generation Diné of the Navajo Nation jeweler and self-described “sales space child,” has recollections of Indian Market going again to her early childhood. Her father, the silversmith Victor Beck Sr., and her maternal grandmother, the rug weaver Rena Begay, would share a sales space and different family members would assist out. As a bit lady, she would typically simply wander round and take all of it in.

Ms. Beck, who calls her enterprise NotAbove, mentioned she can be collaborating this 12 months for the eighth time as a juried artist and can share a sales space together with her grandmother. (Ms. Beck mentioned that her father, who took half in Indian Market final 12 months, died in February of Covid and that her mom, Eleanor Beck, who started making jewellery in later life, died in 2016.)

In her years of doing the present, Ms. Beck, now 40, has come to cherish the moments simply earlier than Indian Market opens for enterprise on that Saturday, when she is strolling to her sales space at first mild, earlier than the solar totally breaks over the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

“It’s nice that you just don’t know what’s going to occur,” Ms. Beck mentioned in an interview from her dwelling studio in Tucson. “It’s going to be one thing that shall be value all of the work that you just had performed in your studio as much as that time.”

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Santa Fe has lengthy been an epicenter for the humanities on the whole and Native American arts specifically, and this 12 months a number of native establishments are marking milestones. The Wheelwright Museum turns 85, the IAIA Museum of Modern Native Arts turns 60 and the Museum of Modern Native Artwork has its fiftieth anniversary, to call a couple of. Dozens of cultural and inventive establishments, organizations and companies within the state have banded collectively to advertise these and different occasions below the umbrella identify of Indigenous Celebration NM, or IC22 for brief.

In August, the New Mexico Historical past Museum will open a yearlong exhibition to commemorate the centennial of Indian Market. The market dates to the 1922 Southwest Indian Honest and Industrial Arts and Crafts Exhibition, created by the Museum of New Mexico as a part of the centuries-old Santa Fe Fiesta. (The market turned its personal occasion in 1962.) At first, pottery was the dominant artwork kind; it wasn’t till the early Nineteen Seventies that jewellery turned an official classification through which artists might compete for prizes.

Awards are given inside every class — judges embody artists and out of doors consultants corresponding to museum curators and gallery house owners — and the profitable items then grow to be eligible for the general best-of-show award. This 12 months, due to an nameless sponsor, the winner of the highest prize will take dwelling $30,000, Ms. Peone mentioned — triple the quantity in earlier years.

The profitable items are chosen behind closed doorways on the Thursday earlier than the market opens. The awards ceremony takes place on Friday, adopted by a sneak preview of award entries for SWAIA members and a public preview for holders of particular $40 tickets, earlier than gross sales formally start on Saturday.

Final 12 months, Davida Lister entered a Y-shaped lariat necklace of handmade silver beads and stones of a predominantly inexperienced and gold number of turquoise whose colours reminded her of the forests and hills that she sees when she drives from her dwelling in Mesa, Ariz., to go to her dad and mom on the Navajo Nation. The piece didn’t win any ribbons, she mentioned, but it surely did catch the attention of somebody on the preview, who sought her out throughout the market and acquired the necklace for $4,000.

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Ms. Lister, 38, describes her designs as “up to date with a twist of conventional” and chooses to make her silver beads from scratch, though she might skip some steps by shopping for prefabricated parts. “I wish to soften all of the silver,” she mentioned in a video interview. “There’s one thing about it that simply connects me with the fireplace and the silver melting collectively after which rolling it out.”

The Navajo artist and market participant Cody Sanderson mixes it up, utilizing methods as previous as hand-forging alongside computer-aided design and 3-D printing to make molds for casting. Typically he combines them in a single piece.

Casting is just one of many steps, he mentioned. Among the many jumble of unfinished items awaiting his consideration in his Santa Fe studio just lately was a big dragonfly cuff product of solid silver. He nonetheless deliberate to file particulars into the tail, solder an 18-karat gold tip on the tip, encrust the eyes with tiny diamonds and mount a big piece of turquoise or coral in a gold bezel on high of its physique, earlier than providing it on the market at Indian Marketplace for $7,500.

Mr. Sanderson, 57, got here to jewellery making about 20 years in the past, and he remembers the fun of his first Indian Market a couple of years later, when he made about $6,000. “That was all the cash on the planet to me,” he mentioned in an interview in his studio. “That was so superior.”

He has since gone on to construct a global model; he mentioned he was more likely to be acknowledged in a restaurant or mall in Taipei or Tokyo than in most U.S. cities. Another Native American jewellery makers and even some patrons frown on his use of recent expertise, Mr. Sanderson mentioned, however he believes in utilizing all of the instruments at his disposal so long as he’s open about his methods.

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“It’s not your grandpa’s jewellery or your grandma’s jewellery,” he mentioned. “It’s mine.”

Mr. Williams of the Wheelwright Museum sees Native American jewellery as an ever-evolving, versatile artwork kind. He famous that the late Hopi jeweler Charles Loloma, whom many take into account the daddy of latest Indian jewellery, was shunned in some circles a long time in the past when he began making extra sculptural- or architectural-looking items that departed from conventional designs.

One thing doesn’t should be “Indian-looking” to be genuine, mentioned Mr. Williams. “It’s Indian as a result of it’s made by a Native American individual.”

Mr. Loloma’s 72-year-old niece Verma Nequatewa, who creates artwork below the identify Sonwai, makes use of methods she realized working together with her uncle in his studio.

“He would present me the way it’s performed,” mentioned the artist who lives on the Hopi Reservation in Arizona. As we speak, considered one of her inlay bracelets of nice gem stones and 18-karat gold would possibly promote for as a lot as $25,000, she mentioned.

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Within the subsequent few weeks, she and plenty of different Native American artists shall be onerous at work creating stock for Indian Market. A whole bunch of others will go to Santa Fe that weekend to take part in one of many many different gross sales occasions happening.

The biggest of those, referred to as the Free Indian Market, bought its begin in 2018. Gregory Schaaf, 68, an creator and retired college professor of Native American research who’s the present’s founding producer, mentioned the thought was to supply alternatives for among the established artists who had beforehand been granted automated entry into Indian Market however had misplaced that privilege when SWAIA modified its coverage and required everybody to use.

“The aim of the Free Indian Market is to function a security web to assist these artists who for any motive didn’t get into the present on the plaza,” he mentioned in a cellphone interview.

The Free Market — so named partially as a result of the artists would not have to pay sales space charges — is an invitational present with no juries, competitions or prizes, and bills are coated by a profit artwork public sale, Dr. Schaaf mentioned. Greater than 500 artists are scheduled to take part this 12 months, he mentioned, with one other 1,000 on his ready listing.

Ms. Peone, who took the helm of SWAIA two years in the past, mentioned she embraces all efforts to help Native American artists over the course of the weekend as a result of the Indian Market’s bodily footprint is restricted. “I encourage them to do what they’re doing,” she mentioned of the Free Indian Market. “These are 500 artists that I can’t seize.”

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One in all Ms. Peone’s priorities, she mentioned, was to get each SWAIA and Native American artists on extra strong monetary footing. A part of that includes serving to artists strengthen their entrepreneurial and digital expertise and increasing their alternatives to do enterprise all year long — not simply on the Indian Market however via different venues corresponding to an e-commerce platform set to open subsequent month referred to as Indigenous Collections.

“I actually really feel that we’re transferring into the realm of financial improvement,” she mentioned.


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Netflix's 'Baby Reindeer': A dark, haunting story bungles its depiction of queerness

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Netflix's 'Baby Reindeer': A dark, haunting story bungles its depiction of queerness

Richard Gadd as Donny in Baby Reindeer. The new Netflix series is based on Gadd’s autobiographical one-man show.

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Richard Gadd as Donny in Baby Reindeer. The new Netflix series is based on Gadd’s autobiographical one-man show.

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Note: You can’t really talk about this series without discussing a major revelation that occurs in episode four of its seven-episode season. So be warned: Spoilers ahead.

There’s a reason that the first scene in the first episode of Baby Reindeer, now streaming on Netflix, plays like it’s a classic setup to a joke: Woman walks into a bar.

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Creator and star Richard Gadd is setting our expectations exactly where he wants them set; he needs us to think that the story he’ll tell us over the next seven episodes will conform to the narrative contours of dark comedy.

He’s already tipped us off that the comedy in question will be dark indeed, via a framing device that opens the show: We see his character Donny Dunn filing a police report that he’s being stalked by a woman named Martha (Jessica Gunning).

Cut to six months earlier: Martha enters the pub where Donny tends bar. Everything that follows is meant to place us inside Donny’s head. As he tells us about her, we can’t help but see her as he does: A sad, fat, pitiable middle-aged woman who’s clearly lying about her life. She’s not the high-powered lawyer she says she is – if she were, surely she could afford to buy a drink. And why would she spend all those potentially billable hours bellied up at Donny’s bar whenever he’s working a shift? And why would she proceed to send him thousands of unhinged text messages and stalk him, his girlfriend, and his family?

Right, we think. We know what we’re in for: Baby Reindeer is the story of one hapless young man getting cruelly stalked by a mentally ill woman, who, it turns out, has a history, and a criminal record, for doing so.

Moreover, it’s a true story. True-ish, anyway, as Baby Reindeer is based on Gadd’s autobiographical one-man show.

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But Gadd soon complicates our understanding of events. It turns out Donny is a struggling would-be comedian; we watch a series of his cringeworthy sets before sparse, stone-faced audiences. He seems depressed and friendless – his work colleagues at the bar are hostile louts; he’s living with his ex-girlfriend’s mother on the outskirts of London.

Plus there’s the nagging fact that while Donny may not actively encourage Martha’s fawning attention, he is awfully passive about shutting down her determination that they could get together, even as she grows more insistent, and more threatening.

Also, as the cop asks him at the start of the first episode. Why did he let it all go on for six months before filing a formal complaint?

Jessica Gunning as Martha.

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Jessica Gunning as Martha.

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The rug-pull

The answer to that question is what Baby Reindeer is truly about. It’s where the conventional and familiar trappings of dark comedy and psychological thriller fall away to reveal the show’s true, beating heart: Sexual abuse, and its lingering aftermath.

It isn’t until episode four that we learn that five years before Martha entered his life, Donny met a successful television writer named Darrien (Tom Goodman-Hill) who gave him career advice, promised to set him up with opportunities, and supplied him with drugs. During those sessions, while Donny was helpless to stop him, Darrien would sexually abuse him.

This, the series proceeds to argue – far too tidily – is the answer to everything. It’s why Donny became the depressed, self-loathing man we’ve come to know. It’s why his comedy career stalled. It’s why he’s since chosen to degrade himself by having meaningless sex with both men and women, doing more drugs, and by developing an interest in “extreme” pornography.

It’s also, of course – or so the show would have us believe – why he was so disarmed and flattered by the attention Martha gave him, which seems (compared to the drug-filled sexual cesspits he once frequented) pure and wholesome and, not for nothing, reassuringly straight. At one point Donny guiltily admits to us that, at his very lowest point, he even started to find Martha – imagine that! a fat woman! – sexually arousing.

It’s this aspect of Baby Reindeer – Gadd/Donny’s ultimate willingness to confront his abuse and explore its aftereffects – which has earned the show its most fulsome praise from critics and audiences. But in practice, the series repeatedly and clumsily conflates the horror of abuse with the simple fact of queer sexuality. Purely for dramatic purposes, Baby Reindeer implies that Donny’s sexuality conforms to the laws of cause (the abuse) and effect (queerness). Worse, it does so in a way that seems specifically designed to reassure those audiences who believe queerness is something that happens to people, something that can be triggered from the outside.

Catching queerness like a cold

Let me be clear: Baby Reindeer is not making any kind of broad sexual/political case that same-sex abuse leads its victims to experience same-sex desire. Neither is it saying that all putatively straight men who get sexually abused by other men will henceforth be attracted to trans women.

But it does want us to believe – in fact it entirely depends upon us believing – that Donny, for one, experienced same-sex desire only after his abuse – desire it goes out of its way to depict as filthy and degrading. It does, too, want us to believe that Donny failed to make any romantic connections with women or men after his abuse – until he met Teri (Nava Mau) on a trans dating site.

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Gadd himself identifies as bisexual, which makes it all the more puzzling and frustrating that, again and again, the series takes absurd pains to present Donny as someone who is not at all like the kinds of queer folk who (shudder!) willingly have sex with each other and (shock horror!) use recreational drugs and (gasp!) watch porn.

Rest assured, straight audiences: Donny’s queer sexuality was something forced upon him – a fact that his stoic father (Mark Lewis Jones) understands and underscores because, as he tearfully explains to his son, “I grew up in the Catholic Church.”

It’s a jaw-dropping scene, but not for the reason it wants to be. It’s meant as a moment of startling honesty and searing empathy between father and son.

It plays like a tasteless, homophobic joke.

Sticking the dismount

For all its queasy discomfort with, and prissy diffidence about queer sexuality, there is one thing Baby Reindeer gets absolutely, hauntingly right: Its ending.

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As the series concludes, Martha has been jailed for stalking Donny. In a thinner, less resonant series, our hero would take this as an unalloyed victory, as vindication. But smartly, Gadd shows us a Donny who has acknowledged his abuse but has only begun to effectively deal with it.

Donny, instead, wallows. He walks the streets, playing Martha’s tender/terrifying voicemails in his headphones. He sets out to confront his abuser, only to cave and accept a job working for him. He shambles through his life alone, until he enters a pub (Man walks into a bar) and realizes he can’t pay for his drink. The handsome bartender comps him out of pity, just as Donny did to Martha in the first episode. The end.

… OK, that pity-drink callback at the very end is a bit on-the-nose, but the series’ refusal to afford Donny a clear, uncomplicated, once-and-for-all victory is a smart one. Had the series ended with a sense of triumph and finality, it would have been dramatically satisfying but emotionally dishonest. Human psychology is more complex than that, and the damage done by abuse more insidious.

When we leave him, Donny is still trapped by his past, because he hasn’t yet done the work he needs to do. He still believes he deserves to be trapped, defined, by what happened to him.

But the series plants the seeds for the change that we know is coming: When he’s alone in that room of his, he’s turning his experience into the one-man show that will become Baby Reindeer. It’s that process of transmutation and creation that will ultimately allow him to process his abuse and turn it into something that engages with the wider world, and grant him the ability, finally, to heal.

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Maybe, in the process, he will manage to move past finding other queer folk and fat people disgusting. Baby Reindeer suggests that Richard Gadd hasn’t quite managed to do that, yet.

But I’m holding out hope for Donny.

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Harvey Weinstein's Conviction in California Solid, L.A. D.A.'s Office Says

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Harvey Weinstein's Conviction in California Solid, L.A. D.A.'s Office Says

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PEN America ceremony canceled due to protest, Tony Kushner will donate prize money

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PEN America ceremony canceled due to protest, Tony Kushner will donate prize money

Playwright Ayad Akhtar on stage at the 2023 PEN America Literary Awards in his role as then-president of the organization.

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Playwright Ayad Akhtar on stage at the 2023 PEN America Literary Awards in his role as then-president of the organization.

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This story has been updated.

Playwright and screenwriter Tony Kushner tells NPR he will donate the $25,000 purse that comes with the PEN/Mike Nichols Writing for Performance Award, for which he is this year’s recipient.

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In an email, the Pulitzer Prize, Tony and Emmy-winning writer said that when he receives the award, “I will donate half the money to Jewish Voice for Peace and half to UNRWA, earmarked for relief work in Gaza.” Kushner is a member of the Jewish Voice for Peace advisory board.

Kushner is one of many artists who’ve called for a ceasefire in Gaza. In an interview with the Haaretz Podcast in March, he said, “If you had asked me, even on October 7, would Israel allow, 30,000 people, many of them civilians, to be killed by the IDF I would have said no.”

The Israel-Hamas war has killed over 34,000 Palestinians, according to health officials in Gaza. Israel invaded Gaza in response to an attack by the militant organization Hamas on Oct. 7 that killed around 1,200 people, mostly civilians.

A production of Kushner’s Angels in America is currently on stage in Tel Aviv. He also co-wrote the screenplay for Steven Spielberg’s Munich which is getting renewed attention in light of Israel’s war with Hamas.

“In both his art and activism, Tony Kushner compels us to confront uncomfortable truths about the 21st century,” PEN America wrote in its announcement, “helping us feel our way towards a better future and aspire toward a more just and compassionate world.”

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The PEN/Mike Nichols honor is one of PEN America’s career achievement awards. “The winner is selected by an internal, anonymous judging panel,” according to the organization.

PEN America literary awards ceremony canceled

PEN America canceled its annual literary awards ceremony after nearly half of the writers and translators nominated withdrew their books from consideration.

The awards will still be granted to those who did not withdraw, though the ceremony, which was scheduled for Monday, April 29 in New York, will not go on. Writer and comedian Jena Friedman had been lined up to host the event.

An open letter signed by a number of writers to PEN America’s leadership reads, “We reject these honors conferred by your organization in protest of your failure to confront the genocide in Gaza.”

They contend that PEN America was slow to denounce “the incomparable loss of Palestinian life” and that when the organization finally did, its statement lacked “proportional empathy.”

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“We greatly respect that writers have followed their consciences, whether they chose to remain as nominees in their respective categories or not,” said Clarisse Rosaz Shariyf, PEN America’s head of literary programming, in a statement. “As an organization dedicated to freedom of expression and writers, our commitment to recognizing and honoring outstanding authors and the literary community is steadfast.”

In February, Palestinian-American writer Randa Jarrar was dragged out of a PEN America event in Los Angeles after she and other writers used a portable speaker to play the names of writers and poets killed in Gaza. The event featured actor Mayim Bialik, who has supported Israel on social media.

The PEN America awards come with different-sized cash prizes. The foundation behind the PEN/Jean Stein Book Award said that Stein was a “passionate advocate for Palestinian rights” and said that it had directed PEN to donate the unawarded $75,000 to the Palestine Children’s Relief Fund.

PEN said that winners who did not withdraw from consideration will receive their cash prizes, including playwright and screenwriter Tony Kushner, who will be honored with the PEN/Mike Nichols Writing for Performance Award.

This story was edited by Jennifer Vanasco.

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