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I Will Miss Alessandro Michele’s Freaky, Geeky Gucci

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I Will Miss Alessandro Michele’s Freaky, Geeky Gucci

I used to be by no means precisely an unadulterated fan of Alessandro Michele, the recently-no-longer Gucci designer. I usually discovered his collections overwrought and self-indulgent; unedited, just like the rambling monologues he would conduct after reveals within the guise of a information convention, throwing himself right into a thronelike chair in exhaustion. But for the final week, ever for the reason that announcement that he was leaving the model after practically eight years, I haven’t been capable of cease pondering that we are going to miss him greater than we’ve but imagined.

And that his departure is yet one more instance of the bind style has created for itself, with the fixed churn of designers, fixed reinvention of manufacturers, fixed manufacturing of recent stuff. With the habit to the instant excessive that’s the new! And totally different! And subsequent!

Whether or not you appreciated what Mr. Michele did or not, there was no denying he had a standpoint, and it modified not simply how individuals dressed however the entire trajectory of style. That’s a uncommon achievement, and one which has a worth all its personal.

Coco Chanel did it, when she tossed the corset and began making little bouclé fits that match like sweaters. Christian Dior did it, with the New Look. Yves Saint Laurent, with the subversive stylish of Le Smoking. Cristóbal Balenciaga, along with his purist structure. Extra just lately, Giorgio Armani did it along with his deconstructed energy suiting, and Martin Margiela, along with his deconstructed concepts of magnificence. They created their very own vernacular that was then absorbed into style writ massive, and from there into closets in every single place.

However these are only a few names within the grand sweep of style, and the reality is most designers — even those who’re very profitable — by no means have even one concept that rises to that degree. They simply make good garments that folks wish to purchase as a result of they appear related. There’s nothing improper with that, but it surely additionally doesn’t change our sense of self, which is what the design that appears nothing like what you thought you needed however that appears out of the blue precisely like who you suppose you wish to be can do.

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And even those who did change style didn’t actually do it greater than as soon as. Having discovered their particular factor, they beautiful a lot caught to it, season after season. (Howdy, Armani jacket. How are you, Birkin bag?) That’s a part of what satisfied customers that such objects are price investing in: their sheer longevity.

It’s not that Mr. Michele’s designs themselves had been so revolutionary; they usually appeared notably classic. It was the best way he outlined style within the first place, and who it was for, that made it resonant and appeared to crystallize the modern cultural second.

He arrived at a model recognized for its jaded, nouveau riche mixture of python, late-night panting and Jackie O aspiration and remodeled it right into a big-tent world of style geeks and freaks, romping by way of gender, time intervals and fantasy. He made loafers into bed room slippers and lined them in fur; put horn-rimmed glasses on silver display sirens; and despatched fashions down the runway carrying replicas of their very own heads. He made offers with Main League Baseball, Disney and Dapper Dan.

Everybody was welcome in his Gucciland. (Additionally, he made a lot stuff, there was just about one thing for everybody.) He noticed inclusivity as broadly as doable and made it fabulous. He put unironic emotion again into style. Even when his work generally veered into the maudlin, it reverberated by way of style to Hollywood and past. It was an enormous thought.

However now, it appears, that’s now not sufficient. It’s not that Mr. Michele was making unhealthy stuff; he was simply making the identical stuff, and that was now not thrilling stuff. When customers get bored, they usually at all times do — on this case, there may be solely a lot kookiness any wardrobe can take except it belongs to Jared Leto — issues are sure to plateau. And Gucci had been so explosively profitable for therefore lengthy (eight years is an eon in present style time) that when it wasn’t anymore, it appeared stalled by comparability. And stalled, lately, equals failure.

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When Mr. Michele both couldn’t, or wouldn’t, swap gears — it’s not clear who instigated the breakup — he and Gucci’s proprietor, Kering, agreed to disagree.

Maybe it was inevitable. The possibilities of any designer producing two main fashion-changing concepts in a single profession are very small. Hedi Slimane, for one, has been doing Hedi Slimane it doesn’t matter what model’s title (Dior Homme, Saint Laurent, Celine) is over the door. Tom Ford’s Tom Ford isn’t very totally different from Tom Ford’s Gucci. John Galliano has switched gears at Maison Margiela from his Dior and Galliano days, true, buying and selling his excessive romance and historicism for eclectic haute recycling, however as of but, and good as it’s, it hasn’t had the identical influence.

Breaths are bated for Phoebe Philo’s long-anticipated debut, and the query of whether or not she’s going to do one other model of the elegantly grownup and inside garments she made at Céline earlier than Mr. Slimane modified its course, or one thing solely new.

However whether or not change must be demanded within the first place is a unique query. Perhaps refining the massive thought, proudly owning the massive thought for posterity, reasonably than ceding it solely, must be sufficient. At a sure level, limitless disruption and reinvention turns into as tiresome as the identical outdated, usual. And continuous progress on a finite planet is a chimera that must be despatched again to the fantasyland from which it arose.

Certainly, coming within the wake of the COP27 local weather convention, and but extra public commitments to sustainability from all sides of the style trade, the Gucci switcheroo appears significantly ironic. In any case, what normally occurs when a model opts for change on the prime? Out with the outdated! If now not to the dumpster or the incinerator, no less than to the sale racks. Extra stuff, flooding the shops. Sustainability implies dedication to an thought of a model, not simply to biodegradable supplies. It implies a long-term relationship, which has its personal implicit worth.

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Generally change is nice, no query. Generally it’s crucial. (See Burberry, which is about to get a makeover underneath the brand new designer Daniel Lee after Riccardo Tisci failed to provide the British model any discernible identification.) However when it’s change for change’s sake, or change for purchasing’s sake, or change for analysts’ sake, which is change for buyers’ sake, it merely reinforces the unhealthy habits we’ve gotten into. Each as customers and as firms. And that’s … effectively, that’s simply one other phrase for waste.

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Netflix's 'Baby Reindeer': A dark, haunting story bungles its depiction of queerness

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Netflix's 'Baby Reindeer': A dark, haunting story bungles its depiction of queerness

Richard Gadd as Donny in Baby Reindeer. The new Netflix series is based on Gadd’s autobiographical one-man show.

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Richard Gadd as Donny in Baby Reindeer. The new Netflix series is based on Gadd’s autobiographical one-man show.

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Note: You can’t really talk about this series without discussing a major revelation that occurs in episode four of its seven-episode season. So be warned: Spoilers ahead.

There’s a reason that the first scene in the first episode of Baby Reindeer, now streaming on Netflix, plays like it’s a classic setup to a joke: Woman walks into a bar.

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Creator and star Richard Gadd is setting our expectations exactly where he wants them set; he needs us to think that the story he’ll tell us over the next seven episodes will conform to the narrative contours of dark comedy.

He’s already tipped us off that the comedy in question will be dark indeed, via a framing device that opens the show: We see his character Donny Dunn filing a police report that he’s being stalked by a woman named Martha (Jessica Gunning).

Cut to six months earlier: Martha enters the pub where Donny tends bar. Everything that follows is meant to place us inside Donny’s head. As he tells us about her, we can’t help but see her as he does: A sad, fat, pitiable middle-aged woman who’s clearly lying about her life. She’s not the high-powered lawyer she says she is – if she were, surely she could afford to buy a drink. And why would she spend all those potentially billable hours bellied up at Donny’s bar whenever he’s working a shift? And why would she proceed to send him thousands of unhinged text messages and stalk him, his girlfriend, and his family?

Right, we think. We know what we’re in for: Baby Reindeer is the story of one hapless young man getting cruelly stalked by a mentally ill woman, who, it turns out, has a history, and a criminal record, for doing so.

Moreover, it’s a true story. True-ish, anyway, as Baby Reindeer is based on Gadd’s autobiographical one-man show.

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But Gadd soon complicates our understanding of events. It turns out Donny is a struggling would-be comedian; we watch a series of his cringeworthy sets before sparse, stone-faced audiences. He seems depressed and friendless – his work colleagues at the bar are hostile louts; he’s living with his ex-girlfriend’s mother on the outskirts of London.

Plus there’s the nagging fact that while Donny may not actively encourage Martha’s fawning attention, he is awfully passive about shutting down her determination that they could get together, even as she grows more insistent, and more threatening.

Also, as the cop asks him at the start of the first episode. Why did he let it all go on for six months before filing a formal complaint?

Jessica Gunning as Martha.

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Jessica Gunning as Martha.

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The rug-pull

The answer to that question is what Baby Reindeer is truly about. It’s where the conventional and familiar trappings of dark comedy and psychological thriller fall away to reveal the show’s true, beating heart: Sexual abuse, and its lingering aftermath.

It isn’t until episode four that we learn that five years before Martha entered his life, Donny met a successful television writer named Darrien (Tom Goodman-Hill) who gave him career advice, promised to set him up with opportunities, and supplied him with drugs. During those sessions, while Donny was helpless to stop him, Darrien would sexually abuse him.

This, the series proceeds to argue – far too tidily – is the answer to everything. It’s why Donny became the depressed, self-loathing man we’ve come to know. It’s why his comedy career stalled. It’s why he’s since chosen to degrade himself by having meaningless sex with both men and women, doing more drugs, and by developing an interest in “extreme” pornography.

It’s also, of course – or so the show would have us believe – why he was so disarmed and flattered by the attention Martha gave him, which seems (compared to the drug-filled sexual cesspits he once frequented) pure and wholesome and, not for nothing, reassuringly straight. At one point Donny guiltily admits to us that, at his very lowest point, he even started to find Martha – imagine that! a fat woman! – sexually arousing.

It’s this aspect of Baby Reindeer – Gadd/Donny’s ultimate willingness to confront his abuse and explore its aftereffects – which has earned the show its most fulsome praise from critics and audiences. But in practice, the series repeatedly and clumsily conflates the horror of abuse with the simple fact of queer sexuality. Purely for dramatic purposes, Baby Reindeer implies that Donny’s sexuality conforms to the laws of cause (the abuse) and effect (queerness). Worse, it does so in a way that seems specifically designed to reassure those audiences who believe queerness is something that happens to people, something that can be triggered from the outside.

Catching queerness like a cold

Let me be clear: Baby Reindeer is not making any kind of broad sexual/political case that same-sex abuse leads its victims to experience same-sex desire. Neither is it saying that all putatively straight men who get sexually abused by other men will henceforth be attracted to trans women.

But it does want us to believe – in fact it entirely depends upon us believing – that Donny, for one, experienced same-sex desire only after his abuse – desire it goes out of its way to depict as filthy and degrading. It does, too, want us to believe that Donny failed to make any romantic connections with women or men after his abuse – until he met Teri (Nava Mau) on a trans dating site.

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Gadd himself identifies as bisexual, which makes it all the more puzzling and frustrating that, again and again, the series takes absurd pains to present Donny as someone who is not at all like the kinds of queer folk who (shudder!) willingly have sex with each other and (shock horror!) use recreational drugs and (gasp!) watch porn.

Rest assured, straight audiences: Donny’s queer sexuality was something forced upon him – a fact that his stoic father (Mark Lewis Jones) understands and underscores because, as he tearfully explains to his son, “I grew up in the Catholic Church.”

It’s a jaw-dropping scene, but not for the reason it wants to be. It’s meant as a moment of startling honesty and searing empathy between father and son.

It plays like a tasteless, homophobic joke.

Sticking the dismount

For all its queasy discomfort with, and prissy diffidence about queer sexuality, there is one thing Baby Reindeer gets absolutely, hauntingly right: Its ending.

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As the series concludes, Martha has been jailed for stalking Donny. In a thinner, less resonant series, our hero would take this as an unalloyed victory, as vindication. But smartly, Gadd shows us a Donny who has acknowledged his abuse but has only begun to effectively deal with it.

Donny, instead, wallows. He walks the streets, playing Martha’s tender/terrifying voicemails in his headphones. He sets out to confront his abuser, only to cave and accept a job working for him. He shambles through his life alone, until he enters a pub (Man walks into a bar) and realizes he can’t pay for his drink. The handsome bartender comps him out of pity, just as Donny did to Martha in the first episode. The end.

… OK, that pity-drink callback at the very end is a bit on-the-nose, but the series’ refusal to afford Donny a clear, uncomplicated, once-and-for-all victory is a smart one. Had the series ended with a sense of triumph and finality, it would have been dramatically satisfying but emotionally dishonest. Human psychology is more complex than that, and the damage done by abuse more insidious.

When we leave him, Donny is still trapped by his past, because he hasn’t yet done the work he needs to do. He still believes he deserves to be trapped, defined, by what happened to him.

But the series plants the seeds for the change that we know is coming: When he’s alone in that room of his, he’s turning his experience into the one-man show that will become Baby Reindeer. It’s that process of transmutation and creation that will ultimately allow him to process his abuse and turn it into something that engages with the wider world, and grant him the ability, finally, to heal.

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Maybe, in the process, he will manage to move past finding other queer folk and fat people disgusting. Baby Reindeer suggests that Richard Gadd hasn’t quite managed to do that, yet.

But I’m holding out hope for Donny.

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Harvey Weinstein's Conviction in California Solid, L.A. D.A.'s Office Says

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Harvey Weinstein's Conviction in California Solid, L.A. D.A.'s Office Says

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PEN America ceremony canceled due to protest, Tony Kushner will donate prize money

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PEN America ceremony canceled due to protest, Tony Kushner will donate prize money

Playwright Ayad Akhtar on stage at the 2023 PEN America Literary Awards in his role as then-president of the organization.

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Playwright Ayad Akhtar on stage at the 2023 PEN America Literary Awards in his role as then-president of the organization.

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This story has been updated.

Playwright and screenwriter Tony Kushner tells NPR he will donate the $25,000 purse that comes with the PEN/Mike Nichols Writing for Performance Award, for which he is this year’s recipient.

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In an email, the Pulitzer Prize, Tony and Emmy-winning writer said that when he receives the award, “I will donate half the money to Jewish Voice for Peace and half to UNRWA, earmarked for relief work in Gaza.” Kushner is a member of the Jewish Voice for Peace advisory board.

Kushner is one of many artists who’ve called for a ceasefire in Gaza. In an interview with the Haaretz Podcast in March, he said, “If you had asked me, even on October 7, would Israel allow, 30,000 people, many of them civilians, to be killed by the IDF I would have said no.”

The Israel-Hamas war has killed over 34,000 Palestinians, according to health officials in Gaza. Israel invaded Gaza in response to an attack by the militant organization Hamas on Oct. 7 that killed around 1,200 people, mostly civilians.

A production of Kushner’s Angels in America is currently on stage in Tel Aviv. He also co-wrote the screenplay for Steven Spielberg’s Munich which is getting renewed attention in light of Israel’s war with Hamas.

“In both his art and activism, Tony Kushner compels us to confront uncomfortable truths about the 21st century,” PEN America wrote in its announcement, “helping us feel our way towards a better future and aspire toward a more just and compassionate world.”

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The PEN/Mike Nichols honor is one of PEN America’s career achievement awards. “The winner is selected by an internal, anonymous judging panel,” according to the organization.

PEN America literary awards ceremony canceled

PEN America canceled its annual literary awards ceremony after nearly half of the writers and translators nominated withdrew their books from consideration.

The awards will still be granted to those who did not withdraw, though the ceremony, which was scheduled for Monday, April 29 in New York, will not go on. Writer and comedian Jena Friedman had been lined up to host the event.

An open letter signed by a number of writers to PEN America’s leadership reads, “We reject these honors conferred by your organization in protest of your failure to confront the genocide in Gaza.”

They contend that PEN America was slow to denounce “the incomparable loss of Palestinian life” and that when the organization finally did, its statement lacked “proportional empathy.”

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“We greatly respect that writers have followed their consciences, whether they chose to remain as nominees in their respective categories or not,” said Clarisse Rosaz Shariyf, PEN America’s head of literary programming, in a statement. “As an organization dedicated to freedom of expression and writers, our commitment to recognizing and honoring outstanding authors and the literary community is steadfast.”

In February, Palestinian-American writer Randa Jarrar was dragged out of a PEN America event in Los Angeles after she and other writers used a portable speaker to play the names of writers and poets killed in Gaza. The event featured actor Mayim Bialik, who has supported Israel on social media.

The PEN America awards come with different-sized cash prizes. The foundation behind the PEN/Jean Stein Book Award said that Stein was a “passionate advocate for Palestinian rights” and said that it had directed PEN to donate the unawarded $75,000 to the Palestine Children’s Relief Fund.

PEN said that winners who did not withdraw from consideration will receive their cash prizes, including playwright and screenwriter Tony Kushner, who will be honored with the PEN/Mike Nichols Writing for Performance Award.

This story was edited by Jennifer Vanasco.

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