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I visited an island just a 20-minute flight from Maui. Its empty beaches and local gems made it feel like a true paradise.

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I visited an island just a 20-minute flight from Maui. Its empty beaches and local gems made it feel like a true paradise.


  • I was born and raised on Maui, and I just visited the Hawaiian island Molokai for the first time.
  • In three days, I got to enjoy the island’s incredible views, small businesses, and quiet beaches.
  • Molokai encouraged me to slow down, appreciate nature, and spend meaningful time alone.

Growing up on the West Side of Maui, the island of Molokai was always in view, but I never made the short journey over — until now.

Molokai sits between Maui, Lanai, and Oahu, spanning 260 square miles. Many consider it to be one of least touristy and most well-preserved visitable Hawaiian islands.

It’s home to fewer than 10,000 residents. Although Lanai, for example, has a smaller population of just 3,200, it offers two world-class Four Seasons resorts, whereas Molokai has historically resisted large-scale tourism.

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There are no major resorts, chain stores, or even traffic lights on the island, making it feel like you’ve been transported back to old Hawaii.

I’ve always viewed Molokai as a beautiful and sacred place with a community protective of its land, culture, and pace — and not always eager for outsiders.

After visiting, I’m grateful to have finally experienced firsthand why the island is also lovingly known as The Friendly Isle.

Flying is the only way to get to and from Molokai.


Author Ashley Probst smiling in front of small plane

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I flew to Molokai.

Ashley Probst

A ferry once ran between my hometown of Lahaina and Molokai, but the route was discontinued in 2016, making the island even less accessible.

Today, small commuter planes are the only public means of getting to Molokai — typically a short, scenic 20-minute flight from Maui.

However, this limited access is a key factor behind why Molokai has remained the least touristy of the islands.

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My first day was spent on Molokai’s arid west side.


Aloha Maunaloa General store exterior, green building with brown steps

I visited a few shops in Maunaloa.

Ashley Probst

Known for its dry and rugged coastlines, this part of Molokai is dotted with kiawe trees, large patches of red dirt, and mostly empty beaches with views of southeast Oahu.

On my way to beach hop, I stopped in the small town of Maunaloa for refreshments at the convenience store and a visit to Big Wind Kite Factory, a mom-and-pop kite shop, and the adjacent Pineapple Gallery filled with art and souvenirs.

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My ultimate destination was Papohaku Beach, one of Hawaii’s largest white-sand beaches.


Empty beach with footprints in sand, clear blue sky

Papohaku Beach was almost empty during my entire visit.

Ashley Probst

Also known as Three Mile Beach, Papohaku Beach is one of the longest continuous beaches in the state.

I arrived around 2 p.m. on a Wednesday and stayed for over an hour.

On most islands, the afternoon is peak beach time, when shorelines are typically packed with families, sunbathers, and people playing in the waves. However, Molokai is different.

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Despite its size and beauty, Papohaku Beach was nearly empty: Only one other person walked along the water before disappearing, leaving me in peaceful seclusion.

The beach stayed incredibly peaceful throughout my visit.


Author Ashley Probst smiling on empty beach in Hawaii

I only saw one other person during my time at Papohaku Beach.

Ashley Probst

I didn’t see any lifeguards, snack stands, or shops for beach equipment rental. I wondered how visitors accustomed to more structured beach days — especially families with children — might experience it.

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Early December is a slower travel period across Hawaii, but even then, being alone on a beach this spectacular felt surreal — a perfect illustration of just how uncrowded Molokai is compared to the rest of the islands.

I visited some other beaches, but none felt as inviting as Papohaku.


Stones along shorline with waves behind them in Hawaii

Poolau Beach was also peaceful.

Ashley Probst

Poolau Beach, located just north of Papohaku, was completely empty as I sat to watch waves crash onto the rocky shoreline.

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Dixie Maru Cove — a small, sheltered beach at the very end of the West Side’s paved road — had just one other person there, but it felt surprisingly cramped after having Papohaku all to myself.

Next time, I’d return to Papohaku and spend the whole day there.

I checked into Hotel Molokai, one of the only traditional hotels on the island.


Hotel Molokai exterior

Hotel Molokai was surrounded by some lovely trees and greenery.

Ashley Probst

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Checking in took only five minutes, and my room was right around the corner from the lobby.

Walking the property, I noted the Hawaiian-style architecture, oceanfront pool, swaying hammocks, flowering trees and, sadly, the recently closed on-site bar and restaurant.

It felt comfortable and charming, but intentionally simple, with a focus on location and atmosphere rather than luxury amenities.

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To enjoy dinner and a sunset, I went to Molokai’s main town, Kaunakakai.


Town in Hawaii at sunset

Kaunakakai felt compact and quiet.

Ashley Probst

The town is small and compact with one main strip and a few short side streets lined by locally owned shops, grocery stores, and casual eateries.

Around the time I visited just before sunset, only some businesses were open (mostly markets and convenience stores) and a handful of people were walking around.

I was in awe as a pink shadow washed over the buildings, and cotton-candy clouds hugged the mountain ridges while the full moon gently rose above them.

By nightfall, the town felt calm and quiet, with very little activity after the last store closed — a stark difference from Hawaii’s more nightlife-driven destinations like Oahu or Maui.

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Live music pulled me into Paddlers Restaurant and Bar.


Plate with chicken pieces, sauce next to Kona Big Wave glass on table in evening

At Paddlers Restaurant and Bar, I got coconut shrimp and a cocktail.

Ashley Probst

With very few restaurants on the island, I was grateful to find one of the few places with live entertainment.

I ordered the coconut shrimp appetizer and a vibrantly colored cocktail.

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Both were delicious, but my total came to about $50 for two items plus tip, which felt more in line with what I’d expect at an upscale restaurant on another island.

At a casual, counter-service spot on Molokai, I assumed prices would mirror a typical plate lunch (usually under $20) and standard bar cocktails (often around $15).

But given the limited options in the area, the price could’ve been just about anything and I probably would’ve paid it.

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I ended the night with Molokai Hot Bread — a must-try local classic.


People waiting on line in well-lit hall area surrounded by dark

Molokai Hot Bread has been a staple here for decades.

Ashley Probst

Known for its late-night hours — on Molokai, that means 7 to 9 p.m. — this iconic spot is down a dimly lit alley around the corner from Kanemitsu’s Bakery & Coffee Shop.

The bread was worth the wait.


Piece of bread with guava jam on it

I get why so many love Molokai Hot Bread.

Ashley Probst

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I joined the line for this local favorite: a giant, pillowy bread loaf stuffed with fillings like my top picks of butter, mango, and guava jellies. It was delicious.

The next morning, I drove an hour from Hotel Molokai, just outside Kaunakakai, to the island’s lush east side.


View of empty road with water on one side, palm trees and hills on the other

Molokai kept impressing me with its views.

Ashley Probst

The coastal drive was stunning, with sweeping ocean views and sections without guardrails that added a sense of adventure and a reminder of how beautiful Hawaii can be when left untouched by development.

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Seeing Maui from a new angle — one that showcased the West Side where I grew up — was a memorable way to start the day.

A cultural hike through Halawa Valley — one of the oldest known Hawaiian settlements — was educational, intimate, and deeply meaningful.


Empty road surrounded by trees, greenery with waterfall in distance

Halawa Valley is on the east side of the island.

Ashley Probst

The family-run tour I booked began at 9 a.m. and featured teachings about Hawaiian history and cultural protocol, including blowing a conch shell to signal our arrival and leaving an offering at their ancestral altar.

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We were given an oral history lesson about the family, the history of Halawa Valley, and the transition from pre-kingdom times to modern tourism.

With only one other person in my tour group, the experience felt especially personal and a mirror of how tourism on Molokai remains purposefully small.

The trail through Halawa Valley to Moaula Falls was lush and historic.


Waterfall surrounded by trees, lush greenery

Moaula Falls looked incredible.

Ashley Probst

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Alongside our guide, we completed two river crossings, passed ancient residences and heiau (spiritual temples), and eventually reached Moaula Falls, a two-tiered cascade.

We spent nearly an hour taking in its beauty, and returned to the tour family’s home around 2:30 p.m.

If I could recommend only one Molokai activity, this would be it — and it’s well worth the $99 ticket.

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I spent the afternoon at nearby Halawa Beach.


Waters surroudned by palm trees, green mountains, stones

Halawa Beach is on Molokai’s eastern shore.

Ashley Probst

The quiet cove offered panoramic views back toward the valley, with clear turquoise water that shifted into deeper blues offshore.

Soft gray sand met the shoreline, turning black where the waves washed over it.

After one group left, I was the only person on the beach. It was easy to slip into Molokai’s rhythm: slow, intentional, and deeply connected to the land.

Instead of swimming, I did a spontaneous beach clean-up and collected a colorful pile of microplastics. It felt good to leave such a significant place better than I found it.

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Molokai Burger is the closest thing to fast food on the island.


Molokai Burger and fries with drink on red tray

Molokai Burger felt a bit nostalgic.

Ashley Probst

Though there is no McDonald’s on Molokai, this locally owned burger joint offers a drive-thru and familiar flavors with a homemade feel and Hawaiian style.

Inside, the red-and-white walls reminded me of In-N-Out, and Molokai imagery adorned the space — including an aerial shot of the same valley I’d hiked into just hours earlier.

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I ordered a cheeseburger, thick-cut fries, and a POG (passion-orange-guava) milkshake for $23, which I found to be fairly priced.

The dining room was quiet when I arrived, though the eatery saw a steady flow of patrons.

My burger tasted like an elevated take on a Big Mac, the fries were satisfying with a bit of extra salt, and the milkshake was deliciously tropical.

When I return, I’ll take my food to-go and enjoy it in a scenic location.

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Later, I returned to Molokai Hot Bread for a loaf to take home.


Line of people waiting at Molokai hot bread

The Molokai Hot Bread was that good.

Ashley Probst

When I asked about pre-ordering bread to pick up before my flight back to Maui, the auntie behind the counter was worried about my tight departure schedule.

She offered to make my loaf that night, refrigerate it in her own home, and bring it with her to work the next day so I could pick it up early.

It was one of the kindest things a stranger has ever done for me.

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Moments like this echoed a theme throughout my trip: Molokai’s residents consistently showed a level of warmth and generosity I’ve rarely experienced on other islands.

My final day began with a leisurely check-out and iced coffee.


Hand holding coffee in front of sugar/straw station

I was glad to get crushed ice at Hula Bean Cafe.

Ashley Probst

I returned my room key just before the 10 a.m. check-out, then headed to Hula Bean Cafe for a latte served over crushed ice — a small touch that I loved.

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I visited Kalaupapa Lookout early.


View over clear blue waters with rainbow over them

Kalaupapa Lookout took my breath away.

Ashley Probst

This scenic viewpoint in Palaau State Park overlooks the remote Kalaupapa Peninsula, once home to a community of people with leprosy who were forced into isolation before a cure was discovered.

To reach the lookout, I drove into the northern part of Molokai, where the elevation rises and the landscape shifts into cooler temperatures and peaceful forest.

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Fog can obscure the views, so I arrived early and was rewarded with clear skies and a gorgeous rainbow arching over the cliffside.

Reading the history placards brought back memories of learning about Kalaupapa in school while I looked out at the beautifully haunting scene below.

A short, steep walk led me to a sacred fertility stone.


Fetility stone in Hawaii surrounded by trees

I found some offerings at the rock.

Ashley Probst

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Legend has it that women who bring an offering and spend the night at Ka Ule O Nanahoa, also known as Phallic Rock, will return home pregnant.

The cluster of offerings at the base of the rock seemed to suggest some people wholeheartedly believe the lore.

Missed stops were a reminder of Molokai’s relaxed pace.


Macadamia nut farm closed sign in front of dirt road

I didn’t get to visit Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm.

Ashley Probst

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Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm was unexpectedly closed, and the Hoolehua Post Office crew was on their lunch break when I first arrived.

On Molokai, I found posted hours are more of a guideline than a guarantee — and tourism not dictating the rhythm of daily life is part of the island’s charm.

I returned to the small town center in Kaunakakai for lunch, shopping, and more exploring.


Molokai Museum exterior - green house

I spent about an hour browsing shops in Kaunakakai and I checked out the museum.

Ashley Probst

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Browsing local shops took less than an hour, and I left with a pareo (sarong) and a shell-shaped hair clip.

At the Molokai Museum, I learned more about the island’s history and was encouraged by locals to visit the First Friday market that evening.

Hoolehua Post Office’s Post-A-Nut activity was a highlight.


Coconut being held under

The Post-A-Nut program has been around for decades.

Ashley Probst

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Since 1991, this tiny post office has offered its Post-A-Nut program, which allows visitors to decorate and mail a coconut as a 3D postcard.

If you’re lucky, there may be free coconuts available, or you can bring your own as long as it meets agricultural requirements: no bug holes, no sprouting, and it must be fully dry.

There were only two coconuts left, so I chose my favorite, decorated it with the provided markers, and sent it off — a quirky, uniquely Molokai souvenir.

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My night ended with ice cream and one last meal.


Korean chicken on bed of greens in takeout cointainer

I got a chicken plate from Maka’s Korner.

Ashley Probst

I popped into Kamoi Snack-n-Go for a fresh scoop of Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream, a Hawaii-born chain that started on Oahu.

My kid-sized cup of honeydew melon-mochi tasted exactly like a Melona bar.

For dinner, I picked up a Korean chicken plate from Maka’s Korner to eat later, and it traveled surprisingly well — as did the hot bread.

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I left Molokai feeling recharged and grateful.


Author Ashley Probst smiling with rainbow and blue waters behind her

Molokai isn’t for every type of traveler.

Ashley Probst

I thoroughly enjoyed my time on the island, but my experience made me reflect on what type of traveler should — and shouldn’t — visit.

Molokai isn’t built for families seeking kid-friendly attractions, nightlife lovers eager to stay out past 9 p.m., luxury travelers who prioritize five-star resorts and fine dining, or those who rely on a packed itinerary of structured activities.

But that’s exactly what makes it special for the right traveler.

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This island is perfect for solo travelers like myself, couples craving a remote respite, and anyone genuinely interested in learning and respecting local culture.

After three days, I felt grounded, connected, and certain I’d return someday — and maybe a few familiar faces will remember me, too.





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Hawaii to see ‘potentially life-threatening weather’ with massive rain, flooding

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Hawaii to see ‘potentially life-threatening weather’ with massive rain, flooding


The National Weather Service warns of a “high-impact and potentially life-threatening weather pattern” in Hawaii this week, with torrential rainfall, flash flooding, strong winds, severe thunderstorms and mountain snow.

Through Saturday, “we could easily see over 20 inches in the harder-hit areas, but that’s just a ballpark estimate,” said Laura Farris, a meteorologist at the weather service office in Hawaii.

Greater totals are possible atop the state’s volcanoes, which can measure feet of rain from the biggest storms.

The cause is a strong low-pressure system that will bring two rounds of stormy weather to the state Tuesday through Saturday. These systems are locally referred to as ‘Kona lows,’ and are responsible for Hawaii’s most extreme weather during winter months.

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“The high-end potential of this Kona storm is significantly outside the realm of ‘normal’ wet season weather,” the weather service said.

Heavy rain will begin over Kauai on Tuesday morning before reaching Oahu on Tuesday night, prompting the weather service to issue a flood watch for those islands, which is in effect through Saturday afternoon.

A lull in storminess Thursday won’t last long, as “an even stronger disturbance is expected Friday into Saturday with major flooding and damaging winds,” the weather service said. That storm is likely to prompt additional flood watches and warnings for Maui and other Hawaiian islands. About 10 inches of rain is predicted in Honolulu, with 30-plus inches of rain possible atop the state’s volcanoes, through Saturday.

Severe thunderstorms could generate hail and damaging winds, with isolated tornadoes even possible Friday and Saturday. Thunderstorm chances are highest for Kauai and Oahu initially, but the second disturbance over the weekend will raise odds for hail, wind and tornadoes across all islands. Significant snow accumulations are forecast for the summits of the Big Islands.

Hawaii is no stranger to heavy rain, as Mount Waialeale, on Kauai, is one of the wettest spots on Earth and averages nearly 40 feet of rain each year, according to NASA. But rainfall rates are expected to approach 2 to 3 inches per hour within the heaviest bands, too much for even tropical islands to handle without flooding.

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This Kona low will have an abundance of moisture to work with. The low’s counterclockwise motion, in tandem with an anomalous clockwise-spinning high-pressure system to the east, will work to draw abundant moisture toward Hawaii from the south. It’s the same area of high pressure responsible for the spring heat wave that’s forecast to grip the Western U.S.

The moisture transport won’t stop upon reaching the island state. It will continue northeastward toward the Pacific Northwest, where a strong Pineapple Express may raise flood danger early next week.



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Hawaii Keeps Adding Fees And Rules. This Park Is Still Free.

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Hawaii Keeps Adding Fees And Rules. This Park Is Still Free.


We were in Hilo for a story that had zero to do with the parks. Visiting Volcanoes National Park again, together with the coconut bridge problem, had sent us across the island from Kona, and the plan was straightforward enough: After our long-awaited volcano visit ended, we planned to do the remaining reporting, get something to eat, and head back out to Kauai via wonderful Hilo Airport. We had not flown through Hilo in years and wanted to check it out, too, and we were glad we did. And we were not expecting Hilo itself to change anything about the day. But it did.

Hilo gave us something we weren’t expecting.

What changed it was not a museum, any paid admission attraction, or some “must-see” visitor stop. It was a public park near the airport that we could have very easily passed by.

Liliuokalani Gardens does not look that impressive from the road. There was no gate, no fee, no reservation sign, and none of the now-familiar friction that can come with so many Hawaii stops. You did not have to plan for it, book it, or have any special reason for just being there. We just showed up. And almost immediately, we had the same thought that many other locals and visitors probably would: how is this still free?

Liliuokalani Gardens still feels generous and opulent.

Not free in the sense of being modest or “nice for what it is.” Free in the sense that if this were packaged somewhere else as a formal attraction, people would pay for it without much hesitation. The gardens are spacious, beautifully kept up, and full of details that only really register once you show up and slow down. The ponds, the bridges, the stonework, the open lawns, the beautiful trees, the way the paths keep opening up to new views. Nothing about it feels slapped together or reduced to the bare minimum.

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What impressed us was just how easy it felt spending time there. People were wandering, stopping, sitting, talking, exercising, and taking their time. Some sat on benches and picnicked, as we did, while others strolled along the paths without any clear destination. Nobody seemed rushed. It was clearly Hilo at its best.

More often than not, the Hawaii experience starts before you even arrive. There is planning, the fee, the booking window, the parking issues, the time slot, the shuttle, the warning signs, the whole uncomfortable low-grade sense that you are entering something managed as tightly as Hawaii deems necessary. Some of that is understandable. Some of it is probably unavoidable. But it changes the feeling of a place in Hawaii. And it turns too many stops into logistics first and enjoyment second. But not here.

Liliuokalani Gardens felt like the opposite. We could hear planes not far off landing and taking off, and still see how close we were to the airport and town, but inside the gardens, all of that fell away. What took over instead was the sound of water, the stillness around the ponds, the nesting nenes, the bridges, and the rare feeling that nobody was trying to move us along.

After we left the park and before returning to Hilo Airport, we also stopped at Rainbow Falls. That stop turned out to be a whole different story. More on that soon.

Liliuokalani Gardens dates back to 1917.

The Territorial Legislature set aside land in Hilo for a public park dedicated to Queen Liliuokalani. The gardens’ own history says the park grew out of an early Hilo push to create a Japanese garden and tea house, influenced by Hawaii’s large Japanese immigrant community and by Laura Kennedy’s 1914 trip to Japan. That history helps explain why the place feels so substantial today: it now spans 24.67 acres, including the Japanese-style garden, Moku Ola, and other connected park areas.

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What Hilo exposed about Hawaii.

These places are not good only because they are free. They are just good, period. The fact that they are free only sharpens the comparison. In a state where more visitor experiences now come wrapped in fees, reservations, restrictions, and various bottlenecks, Hilo can still find ways to offer places that feel open.

That does not mean every site in Hawaii can or should work this way. Some places are too fragile, too much in demand, or too small. But Hilo is a reminder that not everything meaningful in Hawaii has to be turned into a managed product. Not every worthwhile thing needs a layer of hassle between the visitor and Hawaii itself.

We did not go to Hilo looking for a parks story at all. We were nearby because of the coconut bridge problem.

Hawaii visitors are paying more, planning more, and dealing with infinitely more rules than they used to. Sometimes that is the price of preserving what visitors came for in the first place. Sometimes, however, it reflects a broader shift in how the state now handles access, demand, and public spaces.

Hilo offered exceptional beauty without a transaction attached and access without any conditions. We could just arrive spontaneously, stay as long as we wanted, look around, and then leave on our own terms. After so many Hawaii stops built around fees, timing, and control, this is one place where the welcome doesn’t come with a price tag.

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For more information, visit the Friends of Lili’uokalani Gardens website or Facebook page.

Lead Photo: © Beat of Hawaii.

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First Alert Forecast: Time to prepare is now, severe storm approaching

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First Alert Forecast: Time to prepare is now, severe storm approaching


HONOLULU (HawaiiNewsNow) – If you liked the weather yesterday, you can pretty much copy and paste that onto today’s forecast. It’ll be another nice day with a mix of clouds and sunshine. However, this morning, unstable clouds are moving into the windward slopes of the islands, bringing showers to mountain areas.

That will change as a really strong low-pressure system moves toward the islands and strengthens as the week goes on, with tomorrow (Monday) being a transition day. This is a serious storm system for Hawaii that will start impacting us on Tuesday and last through the weekend, bringing heavy flooding, strong and gusty winds, thunderstorms that could become severe, and five days of winter weather for the summits and higher slopes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa.

A great tool to have is our First Alert Weather App and interactive radar.

Rain/Thunderstorms

Even though the storm center is hundreds of miles away, its effects are already being felt. Thunderstorm bands are forming 500 to 700 miles from the storm’s center, and high-level clouds with embedded thunderstorms are already showing up just 150 to 250 miles west of Kauai. A super-strong jet stream (a fast-moving air current) is pushing these storm bands toward Hawaii. A Flood Watch may be issued this afternoon.

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Ensemble models are in good agreement on the track and intensity of this storm. The combination of tropical moisture moving north and the way the upper atmosphere is set up will create deep, organized thunderstorms that will bring heavy showers throughout the islands. The first few days of rain will completely soak the ground. Once the soil is saturated, even lighter rain will quickly turn into runoff and cause flooding. That means the flooding threat actually gets worse later in the week, not better. Heavy rain starting Tuesday will bring 4 to 12 inches of rainfall statewide over the next five days.

Wind

Starting Tuesday, winds will shift to blow from the south and southwest as the storm system approaches. These winds will get progressively stronger through the week. By Friday through Sunday, the winds will be dangerous — strong enough to knock down trees, especially on the northern and eastern slopes of the islands’ mountains. A High Wind Advisory or High Wind Warning is likely to be issued.

The heavy rain earlier in the week will soak the ground and weaken tree root systems. When the strong winds hit, these weakened trees will be more likely to fall. Falling trees and branches will likely knock down power lines, causing power outages across the state.

On top of the strong winds, severe thunderstorms will develop as tropical moisture and southerly winds collide. These storms could be dangerous, with:

  • Damaging wind gusts
  • Very heavy rainfall
  • Dangerous lightning

A Severe Thunderstorm Watch may be issued at some point during this event.

High-elevation snow and ice, along with stronger winds, are also expected over the highest elevations of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa on Hawaii Island. These conditions will likely limit road access to the observatories at summit level. Winter Storm Warnings are likely to be issued for those areas later this week.

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Download HNN’s weather app for everything you need to plan your day.(Hawaii News Now)

Surf

Expect choppy conditions on east-facing shores today, then calmer surf for most of the week. North and west shores will see small, steady waves, while south-facing shores will turn rough and choppy starting Tuesday.

Get 10-minute weather updates, plus your 7-day forecast on Hawaii News Now Sunrise every weekday morning from 4:30 a.m. to 9 a.m. HST with Guy Hagi and team. Meteorologist Drew Davis will have your updates in the midday and early evenings and then Meteorologist Jennifer Robbins at 4 p.m. until 7 p.m; then at 9 p.m. and 10 p.m. on Hawaii News Now. Also on weekend mornings with Billy V & weekend nights with Ben Gutierrez.



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