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California Pinot Noir Wine Producer Starts To Make Wines In Burgundy

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California Pinot Noir Wine Producer Starts To Make Wines In Burgundy


Wild berries, forest floor, bright red cherries, minerality, morel mushrooms, floral notes, cassis and a lot more minerality… nothing on earth can produce the magically ethereal aromas that great Pinot Noir wines can evoke. The wine has broken more hearts than most, as once one experiences one of those bottles that transcends the drinker, they spend the rest of their lives chasing other bottles that live in the shadow of its outstanding predecessor. It is a very challenging grape variety both to grow and handle in the winery, and things can go south with it very quickly. Hence, only those who are madly in love with the grape are crazy enough to try to reach for that elusive dream – to make life-changing Pinot Noir wines.

It was life-changing for Julien Howsepian, who graduated from U.C. Davis with a Bachelor of Science in Viticulture & Enology in 2008 and worked at various places to find where he belonged in the wine world. In 2012, he ended up at Kosta Browne, located in Sebastopol, in the Russian River Valley AVA, in Sonoma County, California. There, he was introduced to wines that went beyond his imagination, and he finally found his home, a home where he eventually became the winemaker.

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And it has become a great match, as Kosta Browne has, through the years, zeroed in on the intricacies of each vineyard and expressed the nuances of specific plots. It takes a particular individual to have the drive and focus to oversee all the key decisions in their vineyards and be on top of critical moments in the various winemaking stages of each vessel of wine. But through the years, Kosta Browne has become relentless in their pursuit of perfection and Julien is the right person for the job as his passion has no limits.

And now, Julien is given a second jolt of energy that is only equaled to his early days at Kosta Browne, as they are making wines in Burgundy through a very special partnership with a multi-generational Burgundy négociant, and Julien is in heaven taking in all the wisdom from the motherland of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The Journey Towards Elegance

Kosta Browne Winery might have started off humbly with two co-workers, Michael Browne and Dan Kosta, who worked for the legendary Sonoma restaurant John Ash & Co., placing their tip money in a jar to buy their first grapes to make wine, but they went on to establish Kosta Browne in 1997 and then, to their surprise, received high scores for their 2003 Pinot Noirs. Yet, with any colossal success, there can always be backlash, with some criticizing the higher alcohol levels. Yet, Michael Browne has noted that the higher alcohol was initially an accident as he “couldn’t get ahead of the picking schedule,” and so they harvested a lot later than they intended; ironically, it was a great success for the times as high-end tasters of Pinot Noir had never tasted anything like it. Through time, Michael and Dan started to move towards a more elegant, fresher style of Pinot Noir without losing its depth and complexity.

And now, under new ownership with Julien at the helm, Kosta Browne has become laser-focused on precision in their farming practices for the premium vineyards they either own, lease or have contracts to purchase fruit, and finding a balance between having a low intervention approach when it comes to winemaking that involves native fermentations yet having an eagle eye over each vessel, as sometimes the temperature needs a slight bit of raising or lowering. Or in a few cases, when it seems like the fermentation is slowing down, Julien and his team will bring that vessel outside, and for reasons that go beyond the temperature change, it perks right up in the fresh air, surrounded by nature. It is all part of their mission for “terroir-driven wines” that truly speak to their mantra: root-to-bottle.

Visiting The Motherland

A few years back, the leadership at Kosta Browne wanted to learn more about European wines, so they focused on tasting and discussing the top wine regions. After the devastating 2020 California fires, they decided they would get a lot more serious about potentially making wines in Europe, so they traveled there to immerse themselves in a few of the wine regions that most piqued their interest.

Julien said they were “blown away” by Europe’s history and way of life, and many wine regions greatly impressed them, yet the wines of Burgundy, France, took them to a level that they could only imagine. And it was fitting that such a legendary Pinot Noir wine producer would try to be part of the motherland of this very special red grape variety. But it was far from easy, as Burgundians are well-known for not liking outsiders, as they do not want their way of life of focusing on small plots with multi-generational wine families to ever change. But there has already been the forming of cracks in their way of life with families not being able to afford the property taxes, and soon there will be hard decisions of either allowing large French conglomerates to continue to buy vineyards or allow smaller foreign operations to purchase wine estates.

But there is another alternative, one that allows growers to keep their land while making a livable income that allows multi-generational producers to maintain a viable business that future generations will be eager to take over, and that is for foreigners to purchase grapes, or in some cases, purchase already made wine. And that is precisely what Kosta Browne did.

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The leadership at Kosta Browne has a relationship with a Burgundy négociant/producer, who not only sources grapes to make his own wine but also sources wine from small family wineries, yet he will still play an essential part in aging the wine in oak. This Burgundy négociant/producer has asked to be kept anonymous, as it is looked down upon to work with foreigners in Burgundy. After going through many samples, they started buying wines already made by this Burgundy colleague in 2020. In 2022, Kosta Browne bought their own grapes, vinified different lots in their colleague’s winery and aged in his cellar. Today, they are selling their 2022 Burgundy wines to their customers, bringing the motherland of Pinot Noir to California – a place known for several different outstanding expressions of the grape from distinctively diverse regions throughout the state.

It has become a debate in recent times if keeping foreigners from purchasing Burgundy estates really helps the locals, as French conglomerates have been paying a fortune for famous vineyards and producers, raising the cost of living for those in the area as property taxes have become astronomical over time. But, at least in this case, the leadership of Kosta Browne has a relationship with someone in Burgundy who has been sourcing wine and making it for generations. Julien was quick to point out that they are being as respectful as possible by taking it slow, first buying already made wine, learning through tasting and spending time in their counterpart’s Burgundy wine cellar, then purchasing grapes that they made into wine themselves and looking for lesser-known gems that, through their Pinot Noir experience, will make great wine with a strong sense of terroir, a.k.a. place, as they wanted to prove their commitment before they start going after legendary vineyards.

Julien is fascinated by all facets of making wine in Burgundy and he always asks their partner in Burgundy about every little thing as there are so many differences. He noticed that there was always a “02” at the end of all the lot numbers for the Kosta Browne barrels of wines, so one day, he asked him about it. His Burgundy partner told him that the “02” at the end indicates that it is for Kosta Browne and it seemed to Julien to represent a second spark that reinvigorated this multi-generational négociant/wine producer. The Burgundy Kosta Browne project started in the middle of the pandemic when times were really tough for their Burgundy partner and even though he was initially weary of getting involved with a foreign wine producer, it became “his oxygen” injecting a “jolt of fresh energy.”

Sometimes, one has to go through the toughest times to realize that the unthinkable option is the best for the future for oneself and one’s family, as well as the community one adores. When the world is falling apart, all the illogical perceptions fall away, leaving only what matters standing, and that which matters is no longer veiled by those perceptions. Hence, it becomes a shining light for those willing to take the leap for a better tomorrow.

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Kosta Browne makes excellent Pinot Noir wines but their Chardonnay wines have come a long way with an intense sense of minerality, freshness and overall elegance. The two wines below are made from 100% Chardonnay, which ideally expresses all those attributes, and they have also added a Chablis Premier Cru to their Burgundy to their portfolio.

2021 Kosta Browne, Sparkling Wine, Blanc de Blancs, Keefer Ranch Single Vineyard, Russian River Valley, California: 100% Chardonnay. This wine is unfiltered and showcases Kosta Browne’s commitment to minimalistic winemaking, which is made using the Champenoise method. 20% aged in Austrian oak foudre and 9% new French oak. Enchanting aromas of citrus oil, wet stones and a delicate floral notes of white flowers that has a creamy texture and peach cobbler flavors with very fine bubbles that lightly tickle the palate lifted by crisp acidity.

2022 Kosta Browne, Chardonnay, El Diablo Vineyard, Russian River Valley, California: 100% Chardonnay with 100% whole cluster direct pressed with 46% new French oak. Lower yields give more concentration, while the higher elevation, averaging around 500 feet, retains high acidity. Delectable notes of spiced toast and lemon curd with underlying notes of minerality with nectarine crumble and quince paste with the rich flavors perfectly balanced by marked acidity and a long, flavorful finish with lots of vibrant tension.

California Single Vineyard Pinot Noir wines are listed below:

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2022 Kosta Browne, Pinot Noir, Gap’s Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. This is Kosta Browne’s flagship wine, with them owning 30 acres of the Gap’s Crown Vineyard at various elevation levels. Anise seed cookie aromas entice the drinker to take a sip with hints of wild tarragon, adding another dimension to this wine with deep flavors of black forest tiramisu topped with fresh red cherries on the palate with some tannic structure, giving lift and drive to this mesmerizing beauty.

2022 Kosta Browne, Pinot Noir, Treehouse Estate Single Vineyard, Russian River Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. Treehouse is a 14-acre Russian River Valley estate single vineyard within the sub-region of Green Valley. Kosta Browne attained a 30-year lease on it and it is tucked away among massive redwoods and bordered by striking cypress trees. Intense minerality on the nose and exciting hints of truffle and violets give it an epic bouquet that combines two intoxicating fragrances that has a brilliant acidity that lights up this wine, as Green Valley is one of the cooler sub-regions in Russian River Valley, with raspberry liqueur flavors that has impeccably chiseled tannins that is like delicate lace.

California Appellation Pinot Noir wines are listed below:

2022 Kosta Browne, Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, California: 100% Pinot Noir. Despite California already having some outstanding wine regions such as Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley, by the time Sta.Rita Hills, in the Central Coast, was brought to the attention of wine drinkers, yet it still quickly became a favorite among Pinot Noir enthusiasts. A cool climate area with plenty of sunshine, yet the fog and intense winds, which also help to lower the chance of fungal diseases, helps to keep temperatures cool, allowing for a longer growing season. This is an incredibly excellent example of why people love Sta. Rita Hills as it is really juicy with lots of fresh, pristine fruit balanced by mouthwatering acidity and round, silky tannins that has delicious flavors of blueberry muffins, crushed rocks and a hint of orange zest.

2022 Kosta Browne, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. Russian River Valley Pinot Noir took the world by storm with its irresistible lushness and decadently rich flavors. Still, there are a lot more nuanced differences among the different sub-regions within Russian River Valley that are sometimes referred to as “neighborhoods,” and even within those neighborhoods, there can be distinctive differences among the vineyards. Some can have a lot more acidity and definition than others. This wine is a blend of eight different vineyards that give it an overall harmonious quality that first starts with a multilayered nose of cinnamon stick, blackberry compote and mossy bark with tannins that are seamlessly integrated creating a texture that is lush in its tactile expression yet the fresh acidity gives a vibrancy that makes this luxurious experience one filled with a tremendous amount of vitality.

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Burgundy Pinot Noir wines are listed below:

2022 Kosta Browne, Beaune Premier, Burgundy, France: 100% Pinot Noir. A blend of Premier Cru vineyards – there are only 42 Premier Crus in the village of Beaune. Enchanting aromas that slowly unfurl in the glass with notes of rose petals, brambly fruit and red cherries laced with a fantastic saline minerality note with a supple texture and a long, expressive finish.

2022 Kosta Browne, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Burgundy, France: 100% Pinot Noir. A village-designated wine that is a blend of various vineyards in Nuits-Saint-Georges, which is known to make darker and bigger wines than the more delicate wines from the village of Beaune. Despite this being a village level, it has a strong sense of place with forest floor, wild morels and crumbled limestone that is fleshed out by ripe black cherries with more prominent tannins than the Beaune, yet they are still refined in quality and just give a bit more boldness on the palate.



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Candidates scramble, one quits, after redistricting shakes up California’s congressional races

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Candidates scramble, one quits, after redistricting shakes up California’s congressional races


Two years after Huntington Beach residents voted to effectively ban Pride flags from being displayed on city property, the conservative coastal city could be represented by a gay member of Congress and outspoken critic of President Trump — Rep. Robert Garcia.

That twist of fate came after last year’s unprecedented mid-decade rejiggering of California’s congressional districts.

Voters in November overwhelmingly approved Proposition 50 — Gov. Gavin Newsom’s plan to neutralize Republican gerrymandering in Texas — to help Democrats win control of the House this November and put a meaningful check on the Trump administration.

The political tremors triggered by the ballot measure already have reshaped California’s political landscape.

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Veteran Republican Rep. Darrell Issa of northern San Diego County, an incessant thorn in the backside of President Obama, has called it quits. Northern California Rep. Kevin Kiley has shed his GOP label to run as a political independent. And two Republican congressional incumbents find themselves in a political death match in a newly crafted district straddling Orange, Riverside and San Bernardino counties.

The new 42nd District remains anchored in Garcia’s home base of Long Beach. But under the new lines, it has swapped out Southeast L.A. communities such as Downey and Bell Gardens for the more MAGA-friendly cities of Huntington Beach and Newport Beach.

“I say that every time a district crosses the L.A.-Orange County border, a Democrat gets its wings,” said Paul Mitchell, the redistricting expert who drew the new lines for Democrats. “Drawing the Long Beach district to go down to Huntington Beach meant that you’re giving Robert Garcia a community that, in its elected City Council, has been real anathema to who he is as a person, being an out gay member of Congress.”

The change means Garcia’s district shifts rightward with a lot more Republican voters, but still has a Democratic majority. Former Vice President Kamala Harris would have still won the new district in the 2024 presidential race by 13 points, making Democrats confident that it’s still one where Garcia could win.

As the top Democrat on the House Oversight Committee, Garcia is poised to win more power in pushing back against the Trump administration if historical precedent holds and Democrats win back the House majority in November.

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Garcia was unavailable for an interview, but many of the new voters he will have to court are represented by Rep. Dave Min (D-Irvine), who won the closely divided Orange County seat in 2024 and now faces a slightly bluer voting base in his newly configured district.

“I have a lot of voters to introduce myself to,” said Min, who described himself as “progressive for Orange County” because he cares about protecting civil rights but often aligns with law enforcement and small-business interests.

“The message [to new voters] is that you may not always agree with me, but that I will try my best to do what I say. I will fight to deliver on the promises I make, I will fight for the values that I represent myself as caring about. And I listen to my constituents,” he said, noting that he recently held his seventh town hall since he was elected.

In a neighboring Orange County district, Republican Reps. Young Kim and Ken Calvert are going to battle for control of the region’s only safe Republican seat post-Proposition 50. That district also crosses county lines — into Corona, Chino Hills and other parts of western Riverside and San Bernardino counties.

Republicans may be dismayed to see the two popular party leaders battling it out in what promises to be a brutal and expensive election.

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Republican “primary voters are looking for how to distinguish between two of the same flavor,” said Rob Stutzman, a Republican political strategist. “Republican voters are going to like both of them, so how do you make that judgment?

“Often, it comes down to who their friends are,” he said, noting that endorsements from interest groups and other elected officials are usually more valuable in primaries than general elections.

A handful of Democratic candidates have also declared for the seat, which campaign strategists said could split the liberal vote and allow both Calvert and Kim to advance to the general election ballot.

Issa bids farewell, Kiley drops GOP label

Chairman Darrell Issa (R-Bonsall) listens to testimony from witnesses during a House Oversight Committee hearing entitled “Reviews of the Benghazi Attack and Unanswered Questions,” in the Rayburn House Office Building on Capitol Hill in 2013 in Washington.

(Drew Angerer / Getty Images)

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Issa’s decision to forgo a run for reelection came as a surprise Friday, even though speculation has swirled about his future after the newly drawn congressional districts put him in a seat where Democratic voters outnumber Republicans. That was a major downgrade from his current district, which swallows up right-leaning eastern San Diego County and the conservative pockets of Temecula and Murrieta.

“This decision has been on my mind for a while and I didn’t make it lightly,” Issa said in a statement. “But after a quarter-century in Congress — and before that, a quarter-century in business — it’s the right time for a new chapter and new challenges.”

Democrats celebrated the departure of Issa, who helped fund the successful 2003 recall of California Democratic Gov. Gray Davis, and led the congressional investigation of the 2012 attack on the U.S. diplomatic mission in Benghazi during the Obama administration.

“After over two decades of disastrous representation, Darrell Issa is once again running for the exits — and good riddance,” said Anna Elsasser, spokesperson for the Democratic Congressional Campaign Committee.

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Several Democrats had already announced plans to challenge Issa, including San Diego City Councilmember Marni Lynn von Wilpert.

Proposition 50 also split the sprawling district held by Kiley, a Republican from Rocklin, into six pieces, leaving the Northern California congressman and frequent Newsom critic with few good options.

Over the following months Kiley posted on social media to announce — like the dating show “The Bachelor” — where he would not run until it came down to two districts: a safe Republican seat that would force Kiley into a primary with longtime Rep. Tom McClintock (R-Elk Grove) or a district with a 9-point Democratic registration advantage.

Kiley chose to avoid challenging McClintock and delivered his final rose to the new 6th District along with a twist: On Friday the congressman announced he would run as an independent candidate rather than a Republican.

Rep. Kevin Kiley (R-Rocklin) in his office in Washington in 2025.

Rep. Kevin Kiley (R-Rocklin) in his office in Washington in 2025.

(Richard Pierrin / For The Times)

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In a lengthy social media post and accompanying video, Kiley said he has become “frustrated, sometimes disgusted, by the hyper-partisanship in Congress” and that he answers to constituents, “not party leaders.”

But without a political party behind him, Kiley’s campaign is “entirely his burden,” said Republican strategist Matt Rexroad. “He’s not going to get the party endorsement. He’s really on his own.”

Without a letter denoting a political party next to their name on the ballot, independent candidates have historically gotten lost in the mix.

One other candidate, a Christian author named Michael Stansfield, confirmed Friday that he filed to run for the seat as a Republican, giving Kiley automatic competition for conservative votes.

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Several Democrats have already announced campaigns for the seat — which lumps conservative suburbs of Sacramento with liberal-leaning ones closer to the capital city — including former state Sen. Richard Pan, Sacramento Dist. Atty. Thien Ho, West Sacramento Mayor Martha Guerrero and Lauren Babb, a public affairs leader for Planned Parenthood clinics in California and Nevada.

The race could revive a pandemic-era rivalry between Kiley and Pan, who tussled over vaccine and public health rules while serving in the state Legislature.

New districts, new challengers

For some longtime Democrats such as Rep. Brad Sherman, the addition of new GOP voters could help them fend off challenges from younger progressive candidates.

Half a dozen Democrats, mostly younger progressives, have filed paperwork to challenge Sherman (D-Sherman Oaks), 71, who has represented parts of the San Fernando Valley for nearly 30 years.

The 32nd District remains solidly blue post-Proposition 50, but a nearly seven-point swing to the right “makes it less likely that two Democrats go to the general, which makes it less likely that [Sherman] would get beaten,” said Mitchell.

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It’s a similar story for Reps. Doris Matsui (D-Sacramento), Mike Thompson (D-St. Helena) and John Garamendi (D-Walnut Grove), who are all in their 70s and 80s and facing younger, more progressive challengers.

While gaining more conservative voters may help some incumbents avoid facing another Democrat in November, the threat of such a faceoff is pushing them to be more active on the campaign trail, Rexroad said.

“You’re seeing more activity by Doris Matsui and Mike Thompson and John Garamendi as a result of them being challenged, because they like their seats and they’d like to hold on to them,” Rexroad said.

Times staff writer Seema Mehta contributed to this report.

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Southern California teen whose home laboratory sparked FBI investigation speaks out

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Southern California teen whose home laboratory sparked FBI investigation speaks out


LOS ANGELES — The southern California teenager whose home laboratory sparked a nearly weeklong investigation from the FBI last week is speaking out, stating that he’s just a “kid who’s interested in science.”

Last Monday, Irvine Police Department officers were called to a home near Cartwheel and Iluna in a gated Irvine neighborhood after learning of “suspicious materials” discovered by the property’s landlord.

As the investigation continued, both Orange County Fire Authority and FBI investigators were called to the scene after it was determined that the materials were possible indications of chemical nerve agents, according to a source familiar with the investigation. They said that the substances, paired with writings found at the scene, were concerning.

While investigators say that 17-year-old Amalvin Fritz, a pre-medical student slated to graduate from Univeristy of California, Irvine, in the coming months, and his family have cooperated with their investigation, the family still hasn’t been able to return home.

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“You know, it’s almost been a week since I’ve been out of my home, and I really want to go back,” Fritz said.

He says that he’s unsure exactly what investigators found that triggered such a chaotic series of events.

“I gave my full cooperation and gave them my phone, and I gave them as much information as possible, but I’m not sure exactly what materials inside the home they would be suspicious about,” Fritz said. “I hope that they can conclude their investigation and we can continue to put this behind us.”

As the investigation progressed, the National Guard’s Weapons of Mass Destruction Civil Support Team was deployed to the neighborhood to assist with the handling of the materials and ongoing probe, which continued over the weekend.

Video from the scene shows FBI personnel dressed in hazardous materials suits and breathing apparatus as they walk to and from the home through the garage. They still haven’t commented on exactly what they discovered as their investigation develops.

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Fritz dreams of becoming a doctor one day, according to his attorney, who spoke with CBS LA on Monday. He has posted a few of his home experiments on his YouTube channel, which were also conducted at his home lab.

While he says that anyone can purchase chemicals like acetone online and that he was safe throughout the process, a chemistry professor from California State University, Long Beach, says that his YouTube videos also show his use of isopropylmagnesium chloride and other compounds in an unsafe and inappropriate setting.

“Those experiments needed to be done in a proper lab facility,” said professor Elaine Bernal. She says that acetone is highly flammable, and that the compounds Fritz used would require proper storage due to the risk of a fire or explosion. She also expressed concern over how the chemicals were disposed of, and the escape of gases during the experiments.

“There’s a big environmental and safety concern that I think was worth of investigation. I get that the FBI was there, hazmat was there. I think it’s also important to think of it as the safety of the local community since it’s tight quarters,” Bernal said. “The chemicals that he mentioned are very flammable. My concern is that whatever gases that are emitted, that folks with respiratory issues, sensitive respiratory issues, can be affected.”

Fritz said that his experiments are focused on new therapeutics for cancer and Alzheimers disease, and that he insists nothing he was doing was dangerous. He hopes to enroll in medical school after graduating from UC Irvine.

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The Key Takeaways for this article were generated with the assistance of large language models and reviewed by our editorial team. The article, itself, is solely human-written.



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Commentary: Culling the field for California governor? Don’t look at me, says Betty Yee

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Commentary: Culling the field for California governor?  Don’t look at me, says Betty Yee


Betty Yee knows what people are thinking. She’s heard what they’ve said and read the many emails she’s gotten.

The former state controller has been running for California governor longer than just about anybody in the cheek-by-jowl field. And yet the Democrat is bumping along near the bottom, a blip in polls and a laggard in the money chase.

But no, Yee said, she has no intention of quitting the race, as she’s been urged, and no fear that, by staying in, she’ll help two Republicans advance to November’s runoff, locking Democrats out of the governor’s office for the first time since George W. Bush was president.

“I just don’t see it,” Yee said, given the way Chad Bianco and Steve Hilton, the top GOP contenders, are smacking each other around, hoping to emerge as the undisputed Republican standard-bearer.

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Beyond that, she said, it’s not as if anyone’s running away with the contest; most polls have shown the leading candidate — which depends on the survey — standing atop the pile with around 20% support.

That isn’t exactly landslide territory.

“The public is still shopping,” Yee said. “In the next month or so, we’re going to try to get [a TV ad] on the air, basically make our case and hope that can spread as voters are getting more focused on the race.”

Which is not to say Yee is delusional.

“As a candidate, I make that assessment every day about whether we’re going to be viable or not,” she said last week, just before stopping by the Alameda County voter registrar‘s office to file paperwork for the June 2 primary.

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“Right now, it’s less than a 50-50 chance,” Yee said, suggesting it’s her job to boost those odds by getting voters to appreciate what she offers, which amounts to unvarnished talk about the challenges facing the next governor and the ways Sacramento — which has been run for years by fellow Democrats — isn’t working.

“ ‘Accountability’ has kind of become a dirty word … where it’s about who we’re going to throw under the bus, rather than stepping back and saying, ‘What have we gotten for the dollars that we spend and, if we’re not getting those outcomes, how do we do better?’ ”

Yee served two terms as controller, in effect the state’s chief financial officer, and 10 years before that on the Board of Equalization, which oversees property tax assessments. She’s isn’t trying to buy the governorship, like billionaire Tom Steyer, or leverage her political celebrity, like cable-TV fixtures Katie Porter and Eric Swalwell. Instead, Yee is running a grassroots campaign, visiting nearly all 58 California counties and holding as many face-to-face meetings as humanly possible.

“I’m in the trenches,” she said. “I knock on doors every election cycle because to me, that’s the reality check of where people really are in terms of their lives.”

Which is certainly an admirable approach, albeit a rather idealistic strategy in a state of nearly 23 million voters, spread over roughly 800 miles from north to south. It would take more than two years of round-the-clock campaigning just to give each and every one a quick handshake.

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The most notable feature of Yee’s candidacy is her message. She’s not selling barn-burning populism or viral take-downs of President Trump — “I don’t have any gimmicks, I don’t swear, I don’t have a reality-TV show personality” — but rather practical know-how and a deep understanding of state government.

It’s almost quaint in today’s theatrical political environment.

Seated at a sidewalk table outside a coffee stand in downtown Oakland, Yee focused on California’s stretched-thin budget, which happens to be her area of expertise.

“People ask what would you do in your first days as governor, if you have the privilege of serving,” Yee said, as her butterscotch latte sat cooling. “I’d come clean with the voters about where we are fiscally.”

After years of surpluses, she said, the state is spending more than it can afford. Facing a structural deficit, the next governor will have to cut programs and raise taxes, not just one or the other, with corporations and California’s richest residents being forced to cough up more. (She’s dubious, however, of a proposed November ballot measure imposing a one-time 5% tax on billionaires, questioning whether it would stand up in court.)

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Sacramento’s credibility, Yee suggested, is on the line.

Before any expansive new programs can be implemented — and she has some notions for how to make life more affordable, increase access to healthcare and create jobs — Californians have to be convinced their tax dollars are being well spent and delivering proven results. “I would really insist on and invite stricter accountability of what we do with our money,” Yee said.

She’s not beyond criticizing the current administration.

“I mean, I’ve been termed out as controller since January 2023. I still get calls from companies in the [European Union], Canada, even Mexico about how we want to do business with California. Who do we talk to?” Yee said. “So I’ll send them over to the governor’s Office of Business Development and they tell me, ‘Well, we try to call people, but nobody’s answering our call.’ ”

(In response, a spokesman for the Office of Business and Economic Development touted California as “a premier hub for international business” and described foreign trade and investment as major drivers of the state economy.)

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As for Gov. Gavin Newsom, while she supports his teenaged trolling of Trump, she said it shouldn’t be done through official channels, , or on the taxpayers’ dime.

“We have to focus on making the state work,” Yee said, “and that’s where I’m more focused on because people … want service delivery. They want government to be responsive to their needs. Somebody just pick up the damn phone on the other line to help them.”

Tough medicine, as she described it, and “stabilization” — which is “kind of my theme” — won’t make a great many hearts go pit-a-pat. But Yee hopes that straight talk and her distinct lack of ornamentation will count for something with California voters.

“The climate now is that people are very drawn by the performative approaches,” she said. “However, I think that will change. I want to give [voters] credit, because I do think they are very discerning when they’re ready to mark their ballot.”

The coming weeks will test that premise. And Yee is staying put.

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