Lifestyle
A Monument to Chocolate Is Wrapped in Layers of Mexican History
This article is part of our Design special section on retrofits.
In Mexico City’s urban core, history runs deep. Beneath the 19th-century buildings erected after Mexico’s independence and the Baroque structures that remain from the Spanish colonial city lie the ruins of the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan.
Preserving historical structures in the city center is dauntingly complicated said Javier Sánchez, whose architectural firm JSa recently retrofitted a 17th-century house steps from the Zócalo, the main square. What spurred him to take on the project? Chocolate.
“Cacao offers this connection between past and present,” said Agustín Otegui, whose family was involved in commissioning JSa in 2013 to turn the three-story building into the city’s Museum of Cacao & Chocolate. (The institution is part of a network in the Americas and Europe that are devoted to the history of chocolate.) Speaking in a video interview, he added, “You have this bean that was used by the Maya and Aztecs, and now it’s a daily delicacy. It’s a link to the past that keeps going.”
Having designed an extension of the Spanish Cultural Center a few doors from the museum, JSa was familiar with the complexities of working in the historic core. In that project, which was completed in 2012, the ruins of a pre-Hispanic school for the nobility were uncovered on the site. Now, the architects, extrapolating from Spanish maps of Tenochtitlan, had reason to believe that they would encounter another such ancient structure.
Supporting this hypothesis was the 17th-century building’s slant, Aisha Ballesteros, the JSa partner who led the museum’s design, said in a video interview. Many buildings in Mexico City are sinking because of the gradual settling of the underground lake bed; the angle in this particular case suggested that there was something below ground propping it up.
That something turned out to be what the Mexican government describes as one of the country’s most important archaeological finds: a section of a tzompantli, or wooden rack
displaying more than 650 human skulls belonging to people who were believed to have been
sacrificed in the 15th-century reign of the Aztec kings Itzcoatl, Ahuízotl, and Moctezuma
Ilhuicamina. Other tzompantlis have been discovered, but this one — the Huei, or great, Tzompantli — is the biggest and best preserved.
What followed was an 11-year effort to excavate and stabilize the Huei Tzompantli below ground while working on the colonial building above. What’s more, the architects designed a five-story museum addition — one of just a handful of contemporary structures built in the historic quarter in the last two decades — to fill the empty space behind the 17th-century building.
“We were facing three important histories,” Ballesteros said. “Ours, the pre-Hispanic and the colonial one. It was important for us to remember that we are only a small part of this 500-year timeline.”
The design centered on a plan to safely showcase the ancient skull rack and let the colonial building shine, with the contemporary building conceived as a quiet presence where additional museum programs could be housed.
After stabilizing the colonial building — Ballesteros said it was like placing footings underneath the legs of a table that is wobbling — builders sank 100-foot-deep pilings to establish a solid foundation for the new structure. This contemporary building was clad in local, sand-colored travertine, a nod to the volcanic stone composing much of the historic center’s architecture and a quiet presence among the more venerable showplaces.
The two museum structures come close, but never touch. “We separated the new building so that you could see the historic walls, but also because of seismic requirements,” Ballesteros said. In many places, the contemporary addition’s right angles draw attention to the colonial building’s tilt. “It becomes a play between old and new, crooked and straight.”
Between them is a courtyard that allows anyone to pick up a beverage from the cacaotería — a chocolate and coffee shop at the museum’s street level — and catch a glimpse of the chefs making chocolate in the nearby prep kitchen. An open-air corridor illuminated by hand-hammered copper light fixtures leads to a courtyard with shade trees and seating. Eventually, visitors will be able to view the ancient skull rack through a window next to the ticket office.
Those with tickets can visit the exhibitions that start on the second level, tracing the history of cocoa from its Mayan roots to the chocolate we consume today. The circulation path moves from within the building to outdoor terraces, allowing visitors to take in the architecture from different perspectives.
There, as in the rest of the museum, can be seen the layered architectural fabric making up the city’s past and present.
“The project showcases Mexico’s richness of heritage without making our contemporary heritage any less important,” Sánchez said. “It is possible to recuperate our history, but also make our city be alive at the same time.”
Lifestyle
Trump floats MAGA rally instead of concert after musicians drop out of Freedom 250
President Trump speaks at the Memorial Amphitheater in Arlington National Cemetery on May 25 in Arlington, Va.
Alex Brandon/AP
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Alex Brandon/AP
President Trump has suggested that an event celebrating America’s 250 birthday should instead be a Make America Great Again rally after many of the artists who were announced to perform dropped out.
The Great American State Fair, which is set to begin on June 25 on the National Mall, had featured artists such as Martina McBride, Morris Day and the Time, The Commodores and Poison’s Bret Michaels — who have all since withdrawn from the lineup.
McBride explained why she decided to not to be part of the fair, writing in a social media post she was presented with an opportunity to perform at “a nonpartisan event but that turned out to be misleading.”
“In my mind I thought this was a great way to celebrate the states and also bring people together in the way that only music can. I saw it as just a bigger version of so many state fairs I have performed at over the years, celebrating community and what makes each state special,” McBride wrote in the post on Thursday night. “Yesterday things started changing and what we were told is, in fact, not what is happening.”
Some artists plan to still perform at the fair. Vanilla Ice said he would not drop out of the event, writing on social media, “This is not a political platform. This is celebrating America’s birthday.”
In a social media post on Saturday, Trump called the performers who backed away from the event “Third Rate” and said he will give a speech that will rally the U.S. “forward like I have done ever since being President!” Later on Saturday, Trump wrote in another social media post that the event should be canceled and replaced with a rally.

“We should have a giant MAKE AMERICA GREAT AGAIN RALLY, for 250, instead of having overpriced singers, who nobody wants to hear, whose music is boring, and yet who do nothing but complain,” Trump wrote.
The fair is being organized by Freedom 250, a public-private group working with the White House to organize the celebration of America’s 250 birthday. The Trump-backed celebrations have drawn criticism and concern that it is centered around himself instead of the country.
Democratic lawmakers and watchdog organizations, such as Citizens for Responsibility and Ethics in Washington, have also questioned where private donations for the 250th celebrations are coming from.
Interior Secretary Doug Burgum, who is involved with planning the celebration, on Sunday said the events are “nonpartisan.”
“It’s not about the transparency of the donors,” Burgum said on CNN’s State of the Union when asked if the donations should become public. “This is about Americans celebrating the 250th anniversary.”
Lifestyle
Sunday Puzzle: ‘Fair’ Game
On-air challenge
Every answer is a word, name, or a familiar phrase in which the first syllable is pronounced “fair” — in any spelling. (Ex. Locale for an exhibition –> FAIRGROUND)
1. Long stretch on a golf course
2. Alternative to Celsius in temperatures
3. Alaska city just south of the Arctic Circle
4. Boat that transports passengers across a river or body of water
5. Monarch in ancient Egypt
6. Medical term for the throat
7. Revolving ride at an amusement park
8. “Cinderella” or “Hansel and Gretel”
9. Small, domesticated animal related to the European polecat
10. Historical Jewish sect in the Gospels and Acts of the Apostles
11. County of northern Virginia that’s adjacent to Washington, D.C.
12. Actress Morgan
13. Louis who leads the Nation of Islam
14. Chemical secreted by the body that’s a stumulant to others
15. Fond goodbye
Last week’s challenge
This week’s challenge comes from Jim Francis, of Kirkland, Wash. Think of a famous female singer (8,4). The first syllable of her first name, the second syllable of her first name backward, and last name forward again are all verbs associated with human desire. Who is this singer?
Challenge answer
Courtney Love
Winner
Larry Birkenmeyer of Glenview, Illinois
This week’s challenge
This week’s challenge comes from Mike Reiss, a longtime writer and showrunner for “The Simpsons.” Name a classic song with a two-word title. Drop the first letter. Add an R after the new first letter. The result will be the names of two countries one after the other. What song is this?
If you know the answer to the challenge, submit it below by Thursday, June 4 at 3 p.m. ET. Listeners whose answers are selected win a chance to play the on-air puzzle.
Lifestyle
The ‘Hacks’ finale ties a melodramatic bow onto a beloved series
Jean Smart.
HBO Max
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HBO Max
This review of the Hacks series finale includes spoilers for the episode.
It also discusses suicide.
The truth — my truth — about the fifth and final season of HBO Max’s Hacks is that I would have left it at the end of the penultimate episode last week. Deborah’s show in Central Park, improvised after she was thwarted in her efforts to play Madison Square Garden, was a triumph. The story has always been, after all, about Deborah and Ava together, outdoing the expectations other people have for them and outfoxing the people who try to thwart them. So being embraced by a huge outdoor crowd, surrounded by people who love them, was just the right ending. Not too heavy for a comedy, not too idealized and neat.
In this week’s series finale, you get a much more melodramatic story. The earlier hints about Deborah’s health problems mature into the news that she has cancer, but she has decided to forgo treatment and travel to Switzerland to undergo an assisted suicide. She also wants Ava to go with her. Ava is furious and panicked, wanting Deborah to choose differently, but Deborah’s mind is made up. In the end, encouraged by Jimmy to respect Deborah’s decision, Ava appears at the airport, and the two go to Paris for a final vacation before they travel on to Zurich. They laugh and walk, and Deborah gives Ava her first taste of Parisian bread. They shop for skin care, they go to the Louvre (which Deborah buys out just for them), and they debate Van Gogh. They even go dancing.
Perhaps I was naive to never believe the show was going to end with Deborah’s suicide. Perhaps it might have ended that way. But it doesn’t. (Here, I am tempted to say, “Of course it doesn’t.”) After Ava fights Deborah, concedes, fights her again, and concedes again, Deborah suddenly (very suddenly) realizes she still likes writing jokes, and she decides to write a new hour with Ava and begin cancer treatment instead of going to Zurich and ending her life. “Happy Days Are Here Again” plays as they walk together in Paris, and then later in Vegas. The end.
I’ve always been of two minds about Hacks: the scene-level writing is impeccable, the jokes have a high hit rate, and the performances are utterly singular, but I’ve always found the plot choices frustrating. By Season 4, the basic story was repeating over and over (they feud; they make up; they feud; they make up). But even then, the jokes were still working, and the performances were exceptional.
Similarly, in this finale, the scenes in Paris are not only great to look at; they are very funny and wildly charming. Even in a short, slapstick bit where Deborah cracks herself up by making Ava try to learn stick shift driving a boxy little rental car through a roundabout, the kicker line from Ava, “Why am I in the rough draft of a car?” is just a straight-up great line. These are gorgeous scenes between the actresses (who are co-leads and always have been; do not let the Emmys deceive you), and they are a great gift to the many people who have loved Hacks over its very successful run. These characters are soul mates, and it is delightful seeing them, once and for all, on the same side.
But the flip side is this: When you incorporate a story about illness and death, especially very late in a show’s run, and especially if it resolves abruptly, it can seem maudlin or manipulative. Death is just a big bat to swing in a comedy series, and there’s a good argument that Hacks just didn’t need it. There is plenty of emotional heft in the history of Deborah and Ava, and in the stories of their careers, without a death scare. And because it was a death scare, some things got awkward, like … Why did D.J., Deborah’s daughter, play no role in any of this? Certainly, Deborah might not want to tell her, but when begging Deborah not to die and pulling out all the stops, would Ava not have talked about her family? Might “please don’t leave me,” touching as it was, have been accompanied by “or your daughter”?
It’s not that the Hacks finale was bad, not by a longshot. (Though the Jimmy/Kayla triumph where they re-enter Latitude to literal applause was perhaps a bit pat.) It’s the capper to a very successful and very good show, which has been richly rewarded with awards and seems highly likely to rack up a few more this fall. But it did, in the end, feel a bit like a hat on a hat, like they didn’t quite trust what’s been built between those two characters enough to pack a wallop without the Grim Reaper stalking the episode. But perhaps it would not have been a Deborah Vance production if it weren’t just a bit over the top.
If you or someone you know may be considering suicide or is in crisis, call or text 9 8 8 to reach the Suicide & Crisis Lifeline.
This piece also appears in NPR’s Pop Culture Happy Hour newsletter. Sign up for the newsletter so you don’t miss the next one, plus get weekly recommendations about what’s making us happy.
Listen to Pop Culture Happy Hour on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.
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