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A Monument to Chocolate Is Wrapped in Layers of Mexican History

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A Monument to Chocolate Is Wrapped in Layers of Mexican History

This article is part of our Design special section on retrofits.


In Mexico City’s urban core, history runs deep. Beneath the 19th-century buildings erected after Mexico’s independence and the Baroque structures that remain from the Spanish colonial city lie the ruins of the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan.

Preserving historical structures in the city center is dauntingly complicated said Javier Sánchez, whose architectural firm JSa recently retrofitted a 17th-century house steps from the Zócalo, the main square. What spurred him to take on the project? Chocolate.

“Cacao offers this connection between past and present,” said Agustín Otegui, whose family was involved in commissioning JSa in 2013 to turn the three-story building into the city’s Museum of Cacao & Chocolate. (The institution is part of a network in the Americas and Europe that are devoted to the history of chocolate.) Speaking in a video interview, he added, “You have this bean that was used by the Maya and Aztecs, and now it’s a daily delicacy. It’s a link to the past that keeps going.”

Having designed an extension of the Spanish Cultural Center a few doors from the museum, JSa was familiar with the complexities of working in the historic core. In that project, which was completed in 2012, the ruins of a pre-Hispanic school for the nobility were uncovered on the site. Now, the architects, extrapolating from Spanish maps of Tenochtitlan, had reason to believe that they would encounter another such ancient structure.

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Supporting this hypothesis was the 17th-century building’s slant, Aisha Ballesteros, the JSa partner who led the museum’s design, said in a video interview. Many buildings in Mexico City are sinking because of the gradual settling of the underground lake bed; the angle in this particular case suggested that there was something below ground propping it up.

That something turned out to be what the Mexican government describes as one of the country’s most important archaeological finds: a section of a tzompantli, or wooden rack

displaying more than 650 human skulls belonging to people who were believed to have been

sacrificed in the 15th-century reign of the Aztec kings Itzcoatl, Ahuízotl, and Moctezuma

Ilhuicamina. Other tzompantlis have been discovered, but this one — the Huei, or great, Tzompantli — is the biggest and best preserved.

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What followed was an 11-year effort to excavate and stabilize the Huei Tzompantli below ground while working on the colonial building above. What’s more, the architects designed a five-story museum addition — one of just a handful of contemporary structures built in the historic quarter in the last two decades — to fill the empty space behind the 17th-century building.

“We were facing three important histories,” Ballesteros said. “Ours, the pre-Hispanic and the colonial one. It was important for us to remember that we are only a small part of this 500-year timeline.”

The design centered on a plan to safely showcase the ancient skull rack and let the colonial building shine, with the contemporary building conceived as a quiet presence where additional museum programs could be housed.

After stabilizing the colonial building — Ballesteros said it was like placing footings underneath the legs of a table that is wobbling — builders sank 100-foot-deep pilings to establish a solid foundation for the new structure. This contemporary building was clad in local, sand-colored travertine, a nod to the volcanic stone composing much of the historic center’s architecture and a quiet presence among the more venerable showplaces.

The two museum structures come close, but never touch. “We separated the new building so that you could see the historic walls, but also because of seismic requirements,” Ballesteros said. In many places, the contemporary addition’s right angles draw attention to the colonial building’s tilt. “It becomes a play between old and new, crooked and straight.”

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Between them is a courtyard that allows anyone to pick up a beverage from the cacaotería — a chocolate and coffee shop at the museum’s street level — and catch a glimpse of the chefs making chocolate in the nearby prep kitchen. An open-air corridor illuminated by hand-hammered copper light fixtures leads to a courtyard with shade trees and seating. Eventually, visitors will be able to view the ancient skull rack through a window next to the ticket office.

Those with tickets can visit the exhibitions that start on the second level, tracing the history of cocoa from its Mayan roots to the chocolate we consume today. The circulation path moves from within the building to outdoor terraces, allowing visitors to take in the architecture from different perspectives.

There, as in the rest of the museum, can be seen the layered architectural fabric making up the city’s past and present.

“The project showcases Mexico’s richness of heritage without making our contemporary heritage any less important,” Sánchez said. “It is possible to recuperate our history, but also make our city be alive at the same time.”

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How actress Laverne Cox became the woman of her dreams (CT+) : Consider This from NPR

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How actress Laverne Cox became the woman of her dreams (CT+) : Consider This from NPR

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – APRIL 21: Laverne Cox attends the “Animal Farm” New York Premiere at Regal Theater on April 21, 2026 in New York City.

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Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images

In 2013, when the Netflix series Orange Is the New Black came out, the world met the character Sophia Burset — a Black trans woman serving as the resident hairstylist in prison. 

For much of the audience, it was also the first time they met actress Laverne Cox — who landed the role of Sophia at the age 40, just when she was thinking of quitting acting altogether.  

In her new memoir Transcendent, Cox talks about the challenges she faced long before Netflix came knocking: a mother who withheld love, a father who was never around and the brutal denigration she encountered growing up Black and trans in the deep South.  

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To unlock this and other bonus content — and listen to every episode sponsor-free — sign up for NPR+ at plus.npr.org. Regular episodes haven’t changed and remain available every weekday.

Email us at considerthis@npr.org.

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Judy Blume says she’s done writing: ’50 years is enough!’

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Judy Blume says she’s done writing: ’50 years is enough!’

Scott Simon talks with author Judy Blume at the Santa Fe International Literary Festival in May.

Tira Howard Photography./Courtesy Santa Fe International Literary Festival


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Tira Howard Photography./Courtesy Santa Fe International Literary Festival

Judy Blume is the legendary writer of books for young adults including Are You There God It’s Me Margaret, Deenie, Tiger Eyes, Tales of a Fourth Grade Nothing and Blubber.

Her last book, 2015’s In The Unlikely Event, was published more than a decade ago. Blume now spends her time reading children’s books behind the counter at her bookstore in Key West, Florida. Though she says she is done writing, her books remain beloved; her readers numerous and devoted.

Judy Blume spoke with NPR’s Scott Simon at the Santa Fe International Literary Festival in May. Here are excerpts from that conversation, edited in parts for clarity and length.

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Scott Simon: How did you begin to write? What do you think made you a writer?

Judy Blume: I was a reader. And, you know, I meet so many kids and they say, “I want to be a writer when I grow up, but I don’t like to read.” And I say, “You know what? Forget being a writer.” Because I think every writer — that I know anyway — grew up a reader. And certainly that was true for me.

Simon: What was the spark that set it in motion from reading to writing, do you think?

Blume: I was married young. I had two kids young. And I was desperate for a creative outlet. I loved taking care of babies, but I needed something else and it could have been anything.

Simon: I have read that at one point in your life you made felt art pieces?

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Scott Simon with Judy Blume in Santa Fe in May.

Tira Howard Photography/Courtesy Santa Fe International Literary Festival


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Blume: Oh God, my first career. You know, I stopped because the Elmer’s glue — I’m an allergic person — started to give me funny things on the tips of my fingers. I made $300 selling those. And I bought myself a small electric typewriter. And the rest is history.

But I always had stories inside my head — when I was 9 years old. I bounced a rubber ball against the side of my house for hours. But really what was going on were stories. Fabulous stories, very melodramatic. I never told anybody. I never asked a friend, “Hey, do you have stories inside your head all the time?” Because I thought they’d think I was weird, which I might have been. So the stories were always there.

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James Burrows, director of classic shows ‘Cheers’ and ‘Friends,’ dies at 85

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James Burrows, director of classic shows ‘Cheers’ and ‘Friends,’ dies at 85

Director James Burrows attends the “Will & Grace” start of production kick off event and ribbon cutting ceremony at Universal City Plaza on August 2, 2017 in Universal City, California.

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LOS ANGELES — James Burrows, who helped create volumes of laughter as director of more than a thousand episodes of such classic television comedies as “Cheers,” “Taxi,” “Friends” and “Will and Grace,” died Friday. He was 85.

His family confirmed his death in a statement to People, saying he “passed away peacefully today surrounded by his family.” No location or cause of death was provided.

Burrows spent his career behind the camera specializing in situation comedies. Few viewers recognized him or knew his name, other than to see it flash quickly on the screen in the opening credits. But they knew his work.

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Burrows got his start in television relatively late at age 35 in 1974, directing episodes of “The Mary Tyler Moore Show,” “The Bob Newhart Show,” and “Laverne & Shirley.”

He co-created “Cheers,” directing 243 of the 273 episodes, as well as all 246 episodes of “Will and Grace.”

He also helmed multiple episodes of such hits as “Frasier,” “Friends” and “Mike & Molly,” and the pilots of “Two and a Half Men” and “The Big Bang Theory.”

“When I direct a television show, I try to reach that sweet spot where the best script meets the best performance and the best chemistry between performers,” Burrows wrote in his 2022 memoir “Directed by James Burrows.” “Hitting that exact moment, where these factors land in combination, results in the sweetest and most enduring laugh.”

His family said, “Burrows understood that great comedy was never simply about laughter. It was about humanity, connection, and truth. That understanding became the foundation of a career that forever changed television.

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“But beyond his remarkable achievements, Burrows will be remembered for something even greater: his kindness, generosity, and unwavering belief in the people around him. He possessed a rare ability to make everyone better and was known for remembering every person he met by name, making colleagues at every level feel seen, valued, and appreciated,” the family statement said.

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