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A Snob’s Guide to Lanai

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A Snob’s Guide to Lanai


For an island owned by the second richest man on earth, Lanai is surprisingly unpretentious. Well, a caveat: it has two fabulous 5-star hotels, one an oceanfront Four Seasons, and the other its wellness-focused sister property, Sensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort. Even still, absent are signs of the dreaded one-percentification that has afflicted other once-sleepy idylls. No Starbucks. No country clubs. No superyachts polluting the Pacific. No Gulfstreams crowding the tiny airstrip. In other words, Lanai, which is Hawaii’s smallest publicly accessible island, remains blissfully unspoiled.

Billionaire Larry Ellison—who bought 98% of this Hawaiian island for $300 million more than a decade ago—has pretty much seen to that, leaving much of Lanai just as Mother Nature intended (while also pumping in an additional $500 million for its general beautification, infrastructure, sustainability initiatives, and much-needed restorations of both hotels). Between the Four Seasons and the Sensei, there isn’t much else—there aren’t even any traffic lights. It almost calls to mind what Big Island was like ten years ago.

Four Seasons Resort Lanai

Spend an afternoon exploring the island by horseback—and be back in time for dinner at Nobu.

“Lanai is not for the guest who is looking for busy nightlife and lots of shopping,” says Avi Phookan, general manager of Four Seasons Resort Lanai. “With only 3,000 residents and a small plantation town, this is like Hawaii as it used to be in vintage postcards. An unhurried pace, lack of crowds, friendly people.”

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Not that any of this implies there is nothing to do here. As one would expect, Four Seasons boasts an extensive menu of activities to fill up those sunny days: snorkeling (some of the best in Hawaii, per popular opinion), deep-sea fishing, sailing, golf and tennis, mountain biking, hiking, sporting clays, and horseback riding. There is an observatory on site for fantastic skygazing, as well as an adventure park nearby to keep the kids entertained. The food, too, will satisfy the most discerning of coastal elite palates (hint: it’s Nobu).

But also core to the ethos of both Four Seasons and Sensei properties is the sensitivity to—and respect for—the island. “Ancient Native Hawaiians lived sustainably on Lanai for many years,” Phookan says. “We are committed to caring for the land and understanding, preserving, and sharing the island’s culture, traditions, and history.” This is evident in projects like Sensei Farms—which uses solar energy to power its greenhouses and not only supplies the produce at the resorts, but also in supermarkets throughout Hawaii—as well as in the resort’s partnership with the National Fish and Wildlife Foundation to protect native flora and fauna, the coral reefs, and endangered seabird habitats. Hula, lei making, ukelele classes, lauhala weaving, and workshops in the kitchen garden are all part of the daily repertoire, too.

Lanai’s Hidden Gems
There are only 30 miles of paved roads on Lanai, so go off-road! Rent a 4×4 jeep, pick up sandwiches from the gas station (there is only one), and make your way to Polihua Beach for its white sand calm. Ganosti’s is also great for lunch, and don’t miss a visit to Hale Keaka, Lanai’s gorgeously restored historic movie theater. And for a unique round of golf, check out Cavendish, a charmingly rustic—and free to play—9-hole course that very few people know about.

a tent in a garden
Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort

Sensei Lanai’s verdant display of native flora and blue chip art (pictured here: Burning Desire by Marc Quinn).

Sensei Lanai is only 20 minutes away but might as well be in another world. Nestled smack dab in the middle of the island, the beach paradise vibe of Four Seasons gives way to something more Goop-meets-ryokan. Wellness is the MO here, but the approach is gentle. Of course you can certainly measure your VO2 max and assess your diet with an on-site nutritionist and get your fill of all the bio-hacking and longevity-promoting metrics befitting a Silicon Valley titan (Ellison founded Sensei with Dr. David Agus, who heads up his Institute for Transformative Medicine). But you can also just bide your time doing yoga, meditating, and soaking in an onsen (the property has 10). And have chocolate cake for dessert without feeling bad about it (sustenance here comes courtesy of Nobu, too).

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lanai
Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort

A spa hale.

While the onsen garden is a magical little oasis discreetly tucked away on Sensei’s lush grounds (a profusion of rare palms, anthuriums, philodendrons, and giant grammatophyllum orchids is interspersed with larger-than-life sculptures by the likes of Botero, Lalanne, Koons, and Jaume Plensa from Ellison’s personal collection), it might come second to Sensei’s spa program. Every personalized treatment takes place in your own private hale (Hawaiian for home), a 1,000-square-foot sanctuary furnished with an infrared sauna, outdoor and indoor showers, a deep soaking tub, and a backyard onsen pool for you to play, steam, and luxuriate in after a session.

“True luxury is creating a meaningful sense of belonging and a dedicated focus on how people want to be treated, grounded in genuine care,” says general manager David Emig, who points out that Sensei happens to be a particularly popular destination for sabbaticals. “We get people staying 30 days at a time, recharging, relaxing, and getting best practices from our team to take back home.” Might these include the keys to immortality? You’ll just have to go see for yourself.

Headshot of Leena Kim

Leena Kim is an editor at Town & Country, where she covers travel, jewelry, education, weddings, and culture.



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Hawaii

Judge rejects Trump DOJ’s bid to block Hawaii climate lawsuit

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Judge rejects Trump DOJ’s bid to block Hawaii climate lawsuit


A federal judge in Hawaii has turned away the Trump administration’s effort to block Hawaii from filing a climate liability lawsuit against the oil and gas industry, finding the Justice Department failed to prove the federal government would be harmed by such a legal challenge.

The decision Wednesday by Senior Judge Helen Gillmor of the U.S. District Court for the District of Hawaii marks the second loss in DOJ’s two attempts to prevent states from launching lawsuits that seek to compensate local governments for the costs of dealing with climate change.

DOJ sued Michigan and Hawaii last May as part of Trump’s efforts to target state climate change initiatives, arguing that the actions complicate U.S. energy policy. Both states went ahead with their climate lawsuits anyway, and a federal judge in January dismissed DOJ’s complaint against Michigan.

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Gillmor echoed the Michigan decision, finding the federal government did not demonstrate a concrete injury.



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Hawaii’s tourism sector suffers over $300 million loss from storms

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Hawaii’s tourism sector suffers over 0 million loss from storms


HONOLULU (KHON2) — In March, severe weather hit the state during back-to-back Kona low storm systems during a peak time for visitors.

Total tourism loss during the storms is estimated at over $300 million, according to the State Department of Business, Economic Development and Tourism.

The severe weather prompted trip cancellations from visitors, resulting in about $14 million in hotel revenue loss.

But businesses from every sector can feel the economic impact of losing Spring Break travelers.

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“With the lack of visitors that are coming is the lack of people going to restaurants, people going to shopping and people just enjoying the state in general,” James Kunane Tokioka, Director of the State Department of Business, Economic Development and Tourism, said.

Oahu’s North Shore was hit hard with what was described as catastrophic flooding and has been on the road to recovery ever since.

“For most people who come to Oahu, they’ll take a day and drive out to the North Shore, but that visitor was not coming,” Tokioka said. “Haleiwa, in my understanding, was fine, but people didn’t want to go out there because of the destruction in Waialua and that’s understandable. What’s sad is that a lot of the businesses out there have been decimated as far as visitors coming out there.”

Tokioka said that a grant program for impacted businesses will be available soon with the new federal funds approved.

“That money is going to be circulated through DBEDT to the City and County of Oahu and it’s $400 million. Then, $100 million will be going to Maui and Hawaii Island to help small businesses with grants.”

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He added, “There’s certainly paperwork that has to be done.  A similar thing happened in Lahaina when the fires happened. But this time we know better how to get it out faster. If anyone’s business was affected, keep an eye out for the City’s announcement.”

Until then, officials are asking residents to give flood-impacted businesses revenue.

“Residents on this island, instead of going to your local place for now, you might want to just take a drive out to the North Shore on the weekend, or if you are off on the weekday, and help the restaurants and the businesses out there. I know a lot of them are tourist locations or tourist shops. But, you know, it’s fun to be a tourist every now and then,” Tokioka said



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Oahu aquarium fishing ban advances as DLNR eyes West Hawaii reopening | Honolulu Star-Advertiser

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Oahu aquarium fishing ban advances as DLNR eyes West Hawaii reopening | Honolulu Star-Advertiser




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