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A Snob’s Guide to Lanai

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A Snob’s Guide to Lanai


For an island owned by the second richest man on earth, Lanai is surprisingly unpretentious. Well, a caveat: it has two fabulous 5-star hotels, one an oceanfront Four Seasons, and the other its wellness-focused sister property, Sensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort. Even still, absent are signs of the dreaded one-percentification that has afflicted other once-sleepy idylls. No Starbucks. No country clubs. No superyachts polluting the Pacific. No Gulfstreams crowding the tiny airstrip. In other words, Lanai, which is Hawaii’s smallest publicly accessible island, remains blissfully unspoiled.

Billionaire Larry Ellison—who bought 98% of this Hawaiian island for $300 million more than a decade ago—has pretty much seen to that, leaving much of Lanai just as Mother Nature intended (while also pumping in an additional $500 million for its general beautification, infrastructure, sustainability initiatives, and much-needed restorations of both hotels). Between the Four Seasons and the Sensei, there isn’t much else—there aren’t even any traffic lights. It almost calls to mind what Big Island was like ten years ago.

Four Seasons Resort Lanai

Spend an afternoon exploring the island by horseback—and be back in time for dinner at Nobu.

“Lanai is not for the guest who is looking for busy nightlife and lots of shopping,” says Avi Phookan, general manager of Four Seasons Resort Lanai. “With only 3,000 residents and a small plantation town, this is like Hawaii as it used to be in vintage postcards. An unhurried pace, lack of crowds, friendly people.”

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Not that any of this implies there is nothing to do here. As one would expect, Four Seasons boasts an extensive menu of activities to fill up those sunny days: snorkeling (some of the best in Hawaii, per popular opinion), deep-sea fishing, sailing, golf and tennis, mountain biking, hiking, sporting clays, and horseback riding. There is an observatory on site for fantastic skygazing, as well as an adventure park nearby to keep the kids entertained. The food, too, will satisfy the most discerning of coastal elite palates (hint: it’s Nobu).

But also core to the ethos of both Four Seasons and Sensei properties is the sensitivity to—and respect for—the island. “Ancient Native Hawaiians lived sustainably on Lanai for many years,” Phookan says. “We are committed to caring for the land and understanding, preserving, and sharing the island’s culture, traditions, and history.” This is evident in projects like Sensei Farms—which uses solar energy to power its greenhouses and not only supplies the produce at the resorts, but also in supermarkets throughout Hawaii—as well as in the resort’s partnership with the National Fish and Wildlife Foundation to protect native flora and fauna, the coral reefs, and endangered seabird habitats. Hula, lei making, ukelele classes, lauhala weaving, and workshops in the kitchen garden are all part of the daily repertoire, too.

Lanai’s Hidden Gems
There are only 30 miles of paved roads on Lanai, so go off-road! Rent a 4×4 jeep, pick up sandwiches from the gas station (there is only one), and make your way to Polihua Beach for its white sand calm. Ganosti’s is also great for lunch, and don’t miss a visit to Hale Keaka, Lanai’s gorgeously restored historic movie theater. And for a unique round of golf, check out Cavendish, a charmingly rustic—and free to play—9-hole course that very few people know about.

a tent in a garden
Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort

Sensei Lanai’s verdant display of native flora and blue chip art (pictured here: Burning Desire by Marc Quinn).

Sensei Lanai is only 20 minutes away but might as well be in another world. Nestled smack dab in the middle of the island, the beach paradise vibe of Four Seasons gives way to something more Goop-meets-ryokan. Wellness is the MO here, but the approach is gentle. Of course you can certainly measure your VO2 max and assess your diet with an on-site nutritionist and get your fill of all the bio-hacking and longevity-promoting metrics befitting a Silicon Valley titan (Ellison founded Sensei with Dr. David Agus, who heads up his Institute for Transformative Medicine). But you can also just bide your time doing yoga, meditating, and soaking in an onsen (the property has 10). And have chocolate cake for dessert without feeling bad about it (sustenance here comes courtesy of Nobu, too).

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lanai
Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort

A spa hale.

While the onsen garden is a magical little oasis discreetly tucked away on Sensei’s lush grounds (a profusion of rare palms, anthuriums, philodendrons, and giant grammatophyllum orchids is interspersed with larger-than-life sculptures by the likes of Botero, Lalanne, Koons, and Jaume Plensa from Ellison’s personal collection), it might come second to Sensei’s spa program. Every personalized treatment takes place in your own private hale (Hawaiian for home), a 1,000-square-foot sanctuary furnished with an infrared sauna, outdoor and indoor showers, a deep soaking tub, and a backyard onsen pool for you to play, steam, and luxuriate in after a session.

“True luxury is creating a meaningful sense of belonging and a dedicated focus on how people want to be treated, grounded in genuine care,” says general manager David Emig, who points out that Sensei happens to be a particularly popular destination for sabbaticals. “We get people staying 30 days at a time, recharging, relaxing, and getting best practices from our team to take back home.” Might these include the keys to immortality? You’ll just have to go see for yourself.

Headshot of Leena Kim

Leena Kim is an editor at Town & Country, where she covers travel, jewelry, education, weddings, and culture.



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Alaska Shakes Up Hawaii Travel Again With New Southern California Route

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Alaska Shakes Up Hawaii Travel Again With New Southern California Route


Alaska Airlines continues to expand its Hawaii network with a significant new route connecting Honolulu (HNL) and California. This latest addition reflects Alaska’s fast-growing influence on Hawaii travel. It raises intriguing questions about the competitive dynamics of leveraging Hawaiian Airlines, which already flies this route, with other potential players in the wings.

Alaska Airlines expands west coast-Hawaii options.

Starting June 12, 2025, Alaska Airlines will begin operating daily flights between Honolulu and Ontario (ONT), California. Hawaiian Airlines already serves this route, which uses its A321neo narrow-body. Before this announcement, Hawaiian was the only carrier that connected the Inland Empire to the islands.

Alaska’s move doesn’t clarify what could happen next, including Hawaiian possibly ending its flights, shifting to seasonal service, or both carriers maintaining dual operations. We’re sure to learn more about that soon. Upon checking, we see that both airlines have Ontario on their schedule through November 30.

One fascinating aspect is that we previously understood Alaska had planned to leverage the Hawaiian brand for all flights touching the islands. It isn’t clear if that will continue to be the case.

Aviation observer Ishrion Aviation first reported this new route. It highlights Alaska’s recognition of the growing potential of Southern California’s smaller airports. Ontario International Airport and the entire Inland Empire may become increasingly vital hubs for Hawaii travelers seeking to avoid the off-putting congestion of LAX. With its convenient location and super easy access, ONT and neighboring San Bernardino offer a fascinating advantage for Hawaii travelers in the region. BOH editors travel frequently between Hawaii and the Island Empire, which has also piqued our interest.

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Strategic implications for Southern California and Hawaii.

This new route is a smart move for Alaska Airlines as it seeks to strengthen its hold on Hawaii-bound travelers from secondary airports in Southern California. ONT’s proximity to San Bernardino (SBD)—where Breeze Airways has hinted at potential Hawaii flights—adds another layer of intrigue.

Could Alaska’s expansion be a preemptive strategy to solidify its presence and counter any future competition from Breeze, which has yet to confirm Hawaii routes and must first obtain ETOPS certification? It also hints at Breeze perhaps being more of a Hawaii aspirant than we even realized.

In December, Alaska pointed to Ontario as part of its Hawaiian-Alaska integration plans, stating that ONT would likely be included in the next group of airports to share facilities between the two airlines.

You’ll recall that Hawaiian previously served Ontario using widebody aircraft before it brought the A321 to the route. BOH editors confirm having traveled on HNL-ONT when it was still a widebody flight and enjoyed ONT’s convenience. Alaska’s move to re-focus on this market with more narrow-body service aligns with the broader trend of airlines leveraging smaller, less congested airports to appeal to Hawaii leisure travelers seeking convenience.

This route offers an additional, traveler-friendly alternative to reach the islands for Hawaii visitors from the Inland Empire and surrounding areas. Alaska is positioning ONT as a key gateway for Hawaii-bound travelers while expanding its dominance in Southern California.

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Alaska and Hawaiian Airlines before full integration.

Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines maintain a partnership with Alaska as owner as they work toward full integration under one operating certificate later this year. This relationship is increasingly being leveraged as Alaska strategically expands its West Coast network.

The addition of the HNL-ONT route showcases Alaska’s abilities in this area, integrating its Boeing 737 MAX and Hawaiian’s Airbus A321neo fleets while utilizing Hawaiian’s widebody aircraft for strategic long-haul reach.

This evolving dynamic is reshaping Hawaii travel, with Alaska drawing on both companies’ capabilities and assets to strengthen its dominance in the market. As the integration progresses, travelers can look forward to more streamlined operations and expanded route possibilities under Alaska’s leadership.

What Hawaii travelers can expect.

Alaska’s entry into the HNL-ONT market brings both opportunities and questions. The increased competition still lies ahead and may lead to lower fares, making Hawaii more accessible to residents of Southern California. However, the sustainability of the two airlines operating daily flights on this route remains uncertain and will be revealed over time.

A new era of Hawaii travel.

Alaska Airlines’ addition of the Ontario to Honolulu route highlights its commitment to reshaping Hawaii travel. By leveraging the two fleets, Alaska is expanding its network and redefining competition in the Hawaii travel market. For travelers, these changes bring increased choices and the possibility of better pricing while raising questions about how the industry will adapt.

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As Alaska continues to expand its dominance, it’s clear that Hawaii travel is entering an entirely new era where convenience, competition, and strategy play pivotal roles.

We welcome your input and insights.

Photo Credit © Beat of Hawaii.

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Valleywise Health burn center treating 6 people injured in Hawaii NYE firework tragedy

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Valleywise Health burn center treating 6 people injured in Hawaii NYE firework tragedy


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Six critically burned patients arrived in Phoenix from Hawaii on Saturday night, following a New Year’s Eve firework tragedy that left three dead and over 20 injured.

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The six patients, who are in their 20s and 30s, are in critical condition and have burns covering 60% to 80% of their bodies, said Valleywise Health chief clinical officer Dr. Michael White.

White said all six have a good chance of survival and that Valleywise Health does not expect more patients to be flown in.

Hawaii’s only burn center is located on Oahu where the incident took place, but beds are limited. White said the Diane and Bruce Halle Arizona Burn Center in Phoenix, Arizona’s only burn center and one of the largest in the country, has the ability to help.

“When the call is made, we’re more than happy, if we have the capacity and expertise, to help these patients,” White said.

According to Hawaii Gov. Josh Green, the six were chosen due to the severity of traumatic injuries and burns sustained during the incident. Green authorized a C-17 military transport to fly them into Phoenix and it arrived at Sky Harbor International Airport around 8:30 p.m. Saturday.

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On X, Phoenix mayor Kate Gallego applauded Phoenix Fire’s efforts to transport the patients from Sky Harbor.

Phoenix fire officials collaborated with both state and federal agencies, including the Department of Defense, to ensure the patients were transported to Valleywise Health safely.  

“This shows our dedication to saving lives beyond our state borders,” a Phoenix Fire Department spokesperson said.  

Among those flown into Arizona was a mother of a 3-month-old.

On the cusp of New Year’s Day, three people died and over 20 were injured from a firework explosion around midnight in the Aliamanu, also known as the Salt Lake, neighborhood near Pearl Harbor and Honolulu on Hawaii’s third largest island.

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What caused the explosion?

In a Jan. 1 press conference from the Honolulu Police Department, authorities said a person lit a firework “cake” containing around 50 individual aerial fireworks that somehow tipped over, shooting into other crates also filled with fireworks and resulting in the fatal explosion. Authorities estimated fireworks recovered at the scene cost tens of thousands of dollars.

“It looked like a war zone,” Honolulu Fire Chief Sheldon Hao said during the press conference.

Videos posted on social media appear to show dozens of fireworks exploding in a massive, bright blaze, with plumes of smoke rising in the air. The blast appeared to explode on a resident’s front lawn, along a dense neighborhood street dotted with parked cars.

Twenty-three adults and three children were seriously and critically injured in the explosion, though the estimate does not account for those who admitted themselves into the hospital, authorities said. Two women died at the scene and a third passed away a few hours later.

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“Make no mistake, it was a bomb … it was a firework bomb,” Gov. Green said.

Most people injured sustained burns, but injuries also included those caused by shrapnel that were “gruesome,” said Honolulu Emergency Services Department director Dr. Jim Ireland at the press conference.

Honolulu police said the person who lit the fireworks, as well as those who potentially supplied the illegal ones, may face criminal prosecution pending the investigation.

A fourth person died due to an unrelated firework incident in the Kalihi area about six miles away.

‘Best left to the professionals’

Fireworks are fundamentally dangerous, Dr. White from Valleywise Health noted. “They are explosive devices. (There’s) risk for burns and risk for injuries such as this,” he said.

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In Phoenix, any firework that is designed to shoot off the ground is illegal and can carry a misdemeanor charge, fines or jail time, according to Sgt. Brian Bower with Phoenix police.

Fines for illegal fireworks vary per city:

  • Avondale: $1,000. 
  • Chandler: $1,000. 
  • Gilbert: $1,000. 
  • Glendale: $1,500 on first offense, $2,000 on second offense. 
  • Goodyear: $1,000. 
  • Mesa: First offense $500; each subsequent offense between $1,000 and $2,500. 
  • Peoria: $750. 
  • Phoenix: $1,000. 
  • Queen Creek: $1,000. 
  • Tempe: $1,000. 
  • Tolleson: $250. 
  • Scottsdale: Minimum fine of $275. 
  • Surprise: No less than $150, no more than $1,000.

Cities also can hold residents liable for fire damage and emergency responses related to fireworks use. “Fireworks should be left to the professionals,” White said.

Multiple GoFundMe pages have been started to aid those who were injured or died in the New Year’s Eve incident.





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Hawai'i New Year's fireworks toll rises to four with death of toddler

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Hawai'i New Year's fireworks toll rises to four with death of toddler


A three-year-old boy has become the fourth person to die after a massive explosion of fireworks at a home in Honolulu, Hawai’i on New Year’s Eve, according to a US burns doctor.

The blast killed three women and injured more than 20 people, with many suffering from burns to most of their bodies.

The US military flew six of the injured people from Honolulu to Phoenix, Arizona for treatment on Saturday because Hawaii’s lone burns centre doesn’t have the capacity to care for all of the victims.

The incident has since sparked renewed calls from Hawaii’s leaders to crack down on the state’s vast illegal fireworks trade by introducing enhanced enforcement and bigger penalties.

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Hawaiian authorities say the massive explosion was caused by a bundle of aerial fireworks that fell on its side and shot explosives into two crates containing additional explosives.  (AP: Marco Garcia)

Kevin Foster, the director of the Arizona Burn Center, said in a press conference on Monday local time that the six victims flown to Arizona were aged in their 20s or 30s and were suffering from extensive burns.

“The smallest [injury] is about 45 per cent of total body surface area, almost half of the body burned, and the largest is just under 80 per cent of the body surface,” Dr Foster said.

He said many required emergency surgery before they could be flown from Hawai’i.

Browned and burned empty fireworks canisters on piles of debris alongside a yellow police tape

Professional-grade aerial fireworks have been growing in popularity among Hawaiian residents in recent years, even though they are illegal for amateurs to use. (AP:  Marco Garcia)

In addition to the burns, almost all of the victims are suffering “projectile injuries” caused by explosive particles that flew through the air, according to Dr Foster.

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The doctor said all six patients were showing good vital signs, but they may not be able to resume a normal life for up to a year.

At least four of the patients are expected to remain intubated in medically induced comas for months, and some of them could suffer from post-traumatic stress disorder as a result of the incident.

“There’s something uniquely and particularly horrifying about being burned, especially from this type of injury,” Dr Foster said. 

A woman in a white shirt and dark leggings walking in front of a red car, white house and piles of burnt debris

Debris, burnt wood and furniture are piled up in front of the Honolulu home where the explosion took place. (AP: Marco Garcia)

Hawaii’s diverse population has long celebrated New Year’s with fireworks, but in recent years, professional-grade aerial explosives have been growing in popularity even though they are illegal for amateurs. 

Honolulu authorities say a person attending a party lit a bundle of aerial fireworks, which fell on its side and shot explosives into two crates that contained additional explosive items. 

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Video of the resulting explosion shows a rapid series of blasts shooting fireworks in the air and around the front of a house.

AP



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