Culture
Ilona Maher sprinkles her stardust on England – U.S. rugby icon’s new team has had to find a bigger home stadium
Asked if she felt tired after spending over an hour posing for pictures with hundreds of fans, Ilona Maher channels Taylor Swift with her answer.
“I do get tired a lot but, as Taylor Swift said, ‘I get tired a lot but I don’t get tired of it’.”
The ‘it’ the 28-year-old rugby union player from Burlington, Vermont is referring to is the fanfare which follows her every move.
Fresh from making her 20-minute debut for Bristol Bears, the English team she has joined on a three-month contract, Maher had to tackle a queue of photo-seekers more than 250 yards long — taking up three sides of the pitch. Some had travelled across the Atlantic from Washington, D.C. to see a player who now transcends her sport. A 2024 Olympic bronze medallist who last year also featured on the cover of Sports Illustrated’s swimsuit edition and was named on Forbes’ 30 Under 30 list, Maher’s fame continues to snowball.
There weren’t any expectations placed on Maher to spend time with what seemed like every fan who attended her Bristol debut, but she did. “I saw the line of people staying out there and I was like, ‘I’m going to try to take as many photos as I can’,” she told reporters.
With eight million-plus followers across Instagram and TikTok combined, Maher is the most-followed rugby player in the world. She took followers behind the scenes at the previous Olympics in Japan in 2021, when fans were barred from attending due to ongoing pandemic-related regulations and has a sense of humour that would not go amiss in some Saturday Night Live sketches. Mix that with a back catalogue of empowering, body-confident video messages, and she has a global audience of supporters, many of whom are young women and girls.
Maher came on as a second-half replacement for Bristol Bears on Sunday (Dan Mullan/Getty Images)
Over 9,000 were in attendance for Maher’s debut in Bristol, a city in the west of England, just over 100 miles from London, known, among other things, for being the birthplace of street artist Banksy. And just as when one of the anonymous political activist’s latest works pops up to huge publicity, Maher demands the same level of excitement in whatever she does.
Within 72 hours of her move to England being announced, Sunday’s game against local rivals Gloucester-Hartpury was moved from Shaftesbury Park (the 2,000-capacity venue where the team usually play) to Ashton Gate, the 27,000-seater stadium which is home to Bristol City’s men’s and women’s soccer teams, as well as the Bears’ men’s rugby side.
At that point, there was no guarantee Maher, whose every move is being followed by documentary filmmakers from Hello Sunshine (a production company founded by actor Reese Witherspoon that focuses on telling women’s stories), would even feature in the match after she was named as a replacement on the team sheet 48 hours before kick-off. Yet, the team’s attendance record of 4,101, set in 2022, was smashed. For a standalone game in Premiership Women’s Rugby (PWR), there has been no bigger crowd.
Rose Kooper-Johnson is a fellow New Englander, from Rhode Island, and has been living in the UK for the past six years. The 29-year-old works at the Bristol-based University of the West of England in student communications and had never watched rugby live before Sunday.
“Hearing she was coming to Bristol was really exciting,” Kooper-Johnson tells The Athletic. “She has been on Dancing with the Stars (Maher finished as runner-up in that show in November) and she’s just so cool and inspiring. If she can be a catalyst for getting more people into women’s sports, then that’s amazing. She has that ability to bring people together.”
Maher takes a selfie with fans after making her debut for Bristol Bears (Dan Mullan/Getty Images)
Maher’s arrival in England was always going to be impactful.
Having helped the United States’ rugby union sevens women’s team dramatically win Olympic bronze on the game’s final play in Paris last summer, she has timed her move to the sport’s 15-a-side format, where the matches last over four times longer (80 minutes to 14), feature twice as many players on the pitch and games are generally more attritional, to perfection. This is a World Cup year and Maher is eyeing a place on the USA roster. The tournament kicks off with host nation England taking on the Americans on August 22.
Friends Lucy Parkinson, Elvira Berninger, Abby Bevan and Maria East had travelled 130 miles from Bournemouth on the English south coast for Sunday’s have-to-be-there moment. Rugby union team-mates for Ellingham & Ringwood RFC, they usually only attend international women’s fixtures.
“We love all the other players but she (Maher) was the instigator. We were 50/50, like, ‘Do we come just because of the Ilona Maher effect? Yeah, let’s enjoy the hype’,” Bevan tells The Athletic, while East added that the attention on Maher “can only be a good thing for rugby”.
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Chloe and Luke Glover are season-ticket holders for the Bears’ men’s team, so are regulars at Ashton Gate, but the couple had never watched a women’s game before being drawn in by ‘Maher fever’. “She has brought quite a lot of attention to it so we thought we would come and see what it is all about,” Luke says.
Queuing up near food trucks selling churros and barbecued pulled pork are Cathy and her 16-year-old daughter Jasmine, who herself plays rugby union. “She (Maher) has had a big impact on a lot of young girls starting and getting into the sport in general. It has been a big topic, Ilona joining,” Jasmine says. “There are a lot more people looking for teams to join around Bristol, and with her joining a lot more people have even just come here… It was a lot harder to get tickets this time.”
Dings Crusaders under-14s girls’ team did not need to worry about getting tickets, as many of their players were employed to retrieve any loose balls during Sunday’s match. Nellie MacDonald, 12, plays for Dings and feels Maher had made “a massive change to everything already”, and her mum, Sam, agrees, saying, “The amount of people that are here, you can already see it is bigger than before.”
Maher speaks with TNT Sports presenter Jenny Drummond after the match (Dan Mullan/Getty Images)
The game was shown live on TNT Sports in the UK, and the league shared a pre-match social media post detailing its kick-off time in various time zones.
Whenever Maher’s face was beamed onto the stadium’s big screen, huge cheers erupted from the thousands gathered in the Dolman Stand and South Stand. The decibels rose when her name was read out before kick-off and, again, when she came on as a replacement during the second half.
Playing on the wing and wearing knee pads and her now-iconic matte red lipstick, Maher burst into a nerve-calming tackle within seconds. The American likes to run with ball in hand, but Gloucester-Hartpury turned up the heat and gave the home side little room to manoeuvre in a match the visitors won 40-17, scoring six tries in total.
Though Maher failed to get a touch of the ball during her time in the game, her introduction lifted the crowd and the team — Bristol scored their third and final try four minutes after she was introduced.
Finally, an hour and 11 minutes after first beginning her lap of fan selfies following the final whistle, Maher sat down for her own post-match press conference.
“I just try to be as equal as possible, because they’re going to do so much for me as maybe I’m doing for them,” Maher said. “They bought a seat and that seat is going to lead to hopefully some more seats. Fans are the revenue we need to bring in to make this league bigger. So it’s almost, I feel, like my duty. They’re doing so much so I want to do more for them.
“Some people came from America. I had some people say they came to this game from Washington, D.C. to watch… I put those (social media) videos out there for them. I want them to feel confident and love themselves and play the sport and understand what the body is capable of. It’s always just really cool that they’re out there and they stay out there.”
Maher, humble yet radiating confidence, takes ownership of the empire she has created, something she has achieved without necessarily being the best player in women’s rugby.
“It’s cool to be the face of a sport that isn’t thought of as a women’s sport,” she said. “It’s a men’s sport. So to be the face of it and also the impact I’m having is felt across both men’s and women’s (rugby), I’ve had some of the best men’s players in the world be like, ‘Keep doing what you’re doing’ because I think everyone sees value in it. And if one rises, we all rise.
“I’m really proud of what I’ve done and the impact I’ve had on social media, not just in a rugby sense, in a body-positivity sense, the way people are treating themselves. So I’m proud. I think my family is 10-times prouder,” Maher added, with her sister, Olivia, who has moved to England with her, smiling from the back of the room. “And I love what I’m doing.”
Millions of people do.
(Top photo: Dan Mullan/Getty Images)
Culture
Why Is Everyone Obsessed With Bogs?
In prehistoric northern Europe, peatlands — areas of waterlogged soil rich with decaying plant matter — were considered spiritual sites. Since then, swords, jewelry and even human bodies have been found fossilized in their sludgy depths. More recently, however, many of these bogs have been depleted by overharvesting, neglect and development. But as awareness of their important role in removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere grows, more wetlands are being restored, while also serving as unlikely creative inspiration. Here’s how bogs are showing up in the culture.
Fashion
At fall 2026 Paris Fashion Week, several houses — including Louis Vuitton (above left) and Hermès — staged shows amid mossy sets featuring spongy green structures and mounds of vegetation. And the Danish fashion brand Solitude Studios is distressing its eerie, grungy looks (above right) by submerging them in a local peat bog.
Contemporary Art
For her exhibition at California’s San José Museum of Art, on view through October, the Chalon Nation artist Christine Howard Sandoval is presenting sculptures, drawings and plant-dyed works (above) exploring how the state’s wetlands were once sites of Indigenous resistance and community. This month, at Storm King Art Center in New York’s Hudson Valley, the conceptual artist Anicka Yi will unveil an outdoor installation featuring six-foot-tall transparent columns holding algae-rich ecosystems cultivated from nearby pond water and soil.
Architecture and Design
The Bog Bothy (above), a mobile design project by the Dublin-based architecture practice 12th Field in collaboration with the Irish Architecture Foundation, was inspired by the makeshift huts once used by peat cutters who harvested the material for fuel. After debuting in the Irish Midlands last year, it’ll tour the region again this summer. In Edinburgh, the designer Oisín Gallagher is making doorstops from subfossilized bog-oak scraps carbon-dated to 3300 B.C.
Fine Dining
At La Grenouillère on France’s north coast, the chef Alexandre Gauthier reflects the restaurant’s reedy, frog-filled river valley landscape with dishes like a “marsh bubble” of herbs encased in hardened sugar. This spring, Aponiente — the chef Ángel León’s restaurant inside a 19th-century tidal mill on Spain’s Bay of Cádiz — added an outdoor dining area on a pier above the neighboring marshland, serving local sea grasses and salt marsh flowers alongside seafood (above) from the estuary.
Literature
The Irish British writer Maggie O’Farrell’s forthcoming novel, “Land,” about an Irish cartographer and his son surveying the island in 1865 after the Great Famine, depicts haunting encounters with the verdant landscape, including its plentiful oozing bogs.
Culture
Book Review: ‘Selling Opportunity,’ by Mary Lisa Gavenas
SELLING OPPORTUNITY: The Story of Mary Kay, by Mary Lisa Gavenas
Mary Kay, the cosmetics company whose multilevel marketing included sales parties and whose biggest earners were awarded pink Cadillacs, was really in the business of selling second chances. Or, at least, that’s what Mary Lisa Gavenas argues in “Selling Opportunity,” a dual biography of the brand and the woman behind it.
Mary Kathlyn Wagner, who would become Mary Kay Ash, “the most famous saleswoman in the world” and “maybe the most famous ever,” in Gavenas’s extravagant words, was born in 1918 to a poor family and raised mostly in Houston. Although a good student, she eloped at 16 with a slightly older boy. The young couple had two babies in quick succession.
Mary Kay’s creation was a combination of timing and good luck. Door-to-door sales was a thriving industry — but, traditionally, a man’s world: Lugging heavy samples was not considered feminine, and entering the homes of strangers, unsafe. But things began to change during the Great Depression, Gavenas suggests, thanks to a convergence of factors — financial pressures and the rise of the aspirational prosperity gospel espoused by Dale Carnegie’s self-help manuals.
At the same time, female-run beauty lines like Annie Turnbo Malone’s Poro and Madam C.J. Walker’s were finding great success in Black communities. And, coincidentally or otherwise, the California Perfume Company changed its name to Avon Products in 1939.
Ash began by selling books door to door, moving on to Stanley Home Products in the 1940s. She was talented, but direct sales was a rough gig. Every party to show off wares was supposed to beget two more bookings; these led to sales that resulted in new recruits. But there was no real security or stability: no salary, no medical benefits, no vacations. “Stop selling and you would end up right back where you started. Or worse,” the author writes.
Gavenas, a onetime beauty editor who wrote “Color Stories,” takes her time unspooling Mary Kay’s tale, with a great deal of evident research. We learn about direct sales, women’s rights and Texas history.
But, be warned: Readers must really enjoy both this woman and this world to take pleasure in “Selling Opportunity.” Mary Kay the person keeps marrying, getting divorced or widowed and working her way through various sales jobs (it’s hard to keep track of the myriad companies and last names). Gavenas seems to leave no detail out. Thus, the 1963 founding of the eponymous beauty company doesn’t come until almost 200 pages in.
Beauty by Mary Kay included a Cleansing Cream, a Magic Masque and a Nite Cream (which containined ammoniated mercury, later banned by the F.D.A.). The full line of products — which was how Mary Kay strongly encouraged customers to buy them — ran to a steep $175 in today’s money. (To fail to acquire the whole set, Ash said, was “like giving you my recipe for chocolate cake but leaving out an important ingredient.”)
Potential clients attended gatherings at acquaintances’ homes — no undignified doorbell-ringing here — where they received a mini facial, then an application of cosmetics like foundation, lip color and cream rouge — and a wig. The company made $198,514 in sales its first year.
Although Ash may have seemed a pioneer, in many ways Mary Kay was a traditionalist company, whose philosophy was “God first, family second, career third.” Saleswomen, official literature dictated, were working to provide themselves with treats rather than necessities so as not to threaten their breadwinner husbands.
And yet, they were also encouraged to sell sell sell. Golden Goblet pendants were awarded for major orders. After the company started using custom pink Peterbilt trucks for shipping, it began commissioning those Cadillacs for top consultants. (Mary Kay preferred gifts to cash bonuses, lest women save the money to spend on practical things rather than the licensed frivolities.) The Cadillacs, always driven on company leases, would become industry legend and part of American pop culture lore. “Never to be run-down, repainted or resold, the cars would double as shining pink advertisements for her selling opportunity,” Gavenas writes.
The woman herself was iconic, too. While Ash was a product of the Depression, she was also undeniably over-the-top. She wore white suits with leopard trim, lived in a custom Frank L. Meier house and brought her poodle to the office.
Mary Kay went public in 1968, making her the first woman to chair a company on the New York Stock Exchange. By the 1990s, the Mary Kay headquarters near Dallas was almost 600,000 square feet. They commissioned a hagiographic company biopic; there was a Mary Kay consultant Barbie; they were making $1 billion in wholesale. When she died, in 2001, Ash was worth $98 million.
And yet, Gavenas cites that at the company’s height, in 1992, sales reps made on average just $2,400 per year.
Instead of so much time in the pink fantasia of Mary Kay, it would have been nice for a few detours showing how infrequently the opportunities the company sold were truly realized.
SELLING OPPORTUNITY: The Story of Mary Kay | By Mary Lisa Gavenas | Viking | 435 pp. | $35
Culture
Historical Fiction Books That Illustrate the Bonds Between Mother and Child
We often think of the past as if it were another world — and in some ways, it is. The politics, religion and social customs of other eras can be vastly different from our own. But one thing historians and historical fiction writers alike often notice is the constancy of human emotion. The righteous anger of a customer complaining about a Mesopotamian copper merchant in 1750 B.C. feels familiar. Tributes to beloved household pets from ancient Romans and Egyptians make us smile. And we are captivated by stories of love, betrayal and sacrifice from Homer to Shakespeare and beyond.
In literature, letters, tablets and even on coins, we find overwhelming evidence that people in the past felt the same emotions we do. Love, hate, fear, grief, joy: These feelings were as much a part of their lives as they are of our own. And they resonate especially acutely in the bond between mother and child. Here are eight historical novels that explore the meaning of motherhood across the centuries.
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