New York
Snapshots of the Seasons in One of New York City’s Last Wild Places
This railroad track hasn’t carried a train across central Queens in 63 years, and it is more strange and more beautiful for it. The Long Island Rail Road’s Rockaway Beach Branch once offered a 30-minute trip from Manhattan to New York City’s ocean beaches. Along the way it traversed three and a half miles of parkland valleys, earthen embankments and concrete viaducts from Forest Hills to Ozone Park.
The line was abandoned in 1962. And so nature pursued its messy designs. Forests grew. Signal towers fell. Coyotes colonized the dark bramble. In Rego Park, a section of track came unmoored from its fastening pins, and the rock ballast eroded. The track swayed free in the wind. A seedling fell between the stones. It became a red maple tree that grew and caught the rail, folding the steel I-beam into its bulbous trunk.
On a chilly day last winter, Jason Hofmann leaned down, framed the scene with his iPhone and took a picture.
“I like the way the branches move in the wind — it creates interesting geometry with the railroad tracks,” said Jason, 17, who lives nearby and occasionally walks the abandoned tracks. “It feels like nature taking over a war zone.”
Most of the old train line is managed by New York’s Department of Citywide Administrative Services. The middle section, a mile-long stretch through Forest Park, is open to the public. The rest lies behind razor wire, wobbly fences and hillsides of poison ivy. A few neighbors improvise ways to get inside, as do a handful of people who sleep under tarps.
“It’s gorgeous,” said Travis Terry, who lives in Forest Hills, three blocks from the old line. “It’s been untouched for 60 years, so you have these great trees. You’re in a forest and then you think to yourself, ‘Wait, I’m in New York City!’”
The locals are joined by especially ardent urban explorers, some of whom take multiple buses and subway trains to get there. They enjoy the abandoned line for its decayed beauty, and because so few people know it’s there.
“It’s under the radar because it’s in Queens, and it’s hard to get to,” said Jeff Seal, a train-loving performer who filmed himself walking the entire line. The video has received 12,000 views since he posted it on YouTube six years ago, which hasn’t done much to raise the Rockaway branch’s profile. “I like that it’s hidden in plain sight,” he said.
The place may not remain hidden for long. Mr. Terry leads Friends of the QueensWay, a nonprofit that hopes to turn the abandoned train line into a linear park similar to the High Line in Manhattan. The group has received $154 million in grants from the city and the federal government, enough to complete the first mile and a half of park construction.
“It’s important for us to utilize every inch,” Mr. Terry said.
Because the Rockaway branch is in New York City, even this forgotten wasteland has become contested ground. A competing group, called QueensLink, hopes to restore train service aboveground, with a new tunnel connecting the branch to the subway system. Cost estimates start around $4 billion and balloon to $9 billion. The group has won $400,000 to study the rail idea from the U.S. Department of Transportation — the same agency that also gave $117 million to QueensWay to build its park.
“It’s a remarkable resource that has to be used,” said Neil C. Giannelli, 70, who has lived along the line for 24 years and supports QueensLink.
In the meantime, the Rockaway branch grows more beautiful for its disuse. To spend a year trespassing the old tracks is to enjoy the infinite overlapping riot of things planted and dead, built up and falling apart.
If the Rockaway Beach Branch becomes a park in Queens it will be thanks in part to the success of the High Line, another once-abandoned train line that opened as a park starting in 2009 and now attracts tourists from around the world.
Robert Hammond is a co-founder of Friends of the High Line, which led the redevelopment effort. To sell his vision, Mr. Hammond asked the photographer Joel Sternfeld if he might take a few snapshots of the abandoned train line.
Between his photo books and museum exhibitions, including a show at the Museum of Modern Art in 1984, Mr. Sternfeld was among the most celebrated art photographers in the world. He agreed to help the High Line, but not for money. His only request was time.
“I need a year of exclusive access,” Mr. Sternfeld recalled telling the group.
Mr. Sternfeld got his year, and keys to the abandoned line. The wet spring dried. Summer weeds bloomed. Though the High Line in the 1990s was a refuge for artists and teenage thrill seekers, Mr. Sternfeld’s pictures included no people. Instead they focused on faint trails bushwhacked into thickets of invasive Ailanthus trees. His pictures, full of leaden skies and muted auburn bramble, lent the High Line the mystique it needed to land powerful backers, Mr. Hammond said, including Diane von Furstenberg and Mayor Michael Bloomberg.
“For me, it was the seasons,” Mr. Sternfeld said in a recent interview. “I have always been interested in the seasons, and the changing of the seasons.”
A quarter century later, the project to redevelop the Rockaway branch is in the same early phase as the High Line was when Mr. Sternfeld walked it. Yellow lichens dot the rusted steel like polka dots on a necktie. Flocks of blue jays march down the canopy like columns of soldiers, squawking and unafraid. Behind an apartment tower in Rego Park, a high-banked ridge gave way and buried the rail line beneath a slow-moving avalanche of soil.
On a warm day last summer, Alex Cotter left the sidewalk by Yellowstone Boulevard and scrambled onto the steep embankment to the Rockaway branch, using tree roots as handholds to pull himself up. He hoped to see an opossum. Instead he was trapped, dense Ailanthus blocking all northern progress, greenbrier thorns to the south.
“I always thought it would be interesting to go up there, I just never actually did it,” said Mr. Cotter, 28, who grew up near the line in Rego Park. “Maybe I’ll come back when it’s cold.”
Beneath the Yellowstone Boulevard bridge lies a triangle-shaped lot that once was a dumping ground for televisions and car batteries. A decade of free labor turned it into the Compost Collective, where trash is sorted by volunteers and chickens peck one another in a double-decker coop.
At the collective’s winter picnic this December, Anuradha Hashemi stood in the shadow of the quiet train bridge and kept watch over her son’s first bonfire.
“Mom!” said the boy, Obi, 6. “My marshmallow is on fire!”
In the early 2000s, Patrick Mohamed bought a tall, narrow house in Woodhaven. His back patio ended in a cinder-block wall. Just beyond the wall, the Rockaway branch’s embankment rose in a hillside of weeds and trash.
Now Mr. Mohamed is 63, gray at the temples but still quick with his steps. A cold day in February found him in his driveway surrounded by steel barbells, completing his daily exercises. Mr. Mohamed walked to the back of his property, hopped two steps carved into the cinder blocks and climbed into his garden, on land appropriated from the old train line.
Raised tomato beds climbed the hill like a staircase. They were topped with trellises for long beans and bitter melons and small-gauge screen to keep the rabbits out. Where the hill crests, fat terra cotta planters filled with barren soil extended Mr. Mohamed’s domain all the way across the first set of tracks.
Everywhere else in New York, land rights are adjudicated to the square inch. On the Rockaway branch, things are looser. Some homeowners keep their backyards flush with the property line laid down by the railroad. Many have edged their fences back a few feet, claiming space for a shed, a foosball table or a rope swing. Few of Mr. Mohamed’s neighbors are eager to see the line repurposed as a park, which might bring nosy strangers to their backyard retreats.
“I’m worried about people looking in, hurting our privacy,” said Lasha Revia, 46, who carved a stone-lined terrace into the embankment where he hosts family gatherings in summer.
But no one else along the entire three-and-a-half-mile line has pursued a campaign of territorial expansion as successful as Mr. Mohamed’s.
“I built this over 24 years,” he said. “I did it a little piece at a time.”
One man can impose only so much order on a place so riotous. Rather than feel discouraged by the disorder, Mr. Mohamed greets it with delight. In summer, when the garden pruning is finished, he retires to his back deck. He watches darkness descend at its own celestial pace.
“At night it gets really dark back here,” he said. “We get great stars, and the moon comes out really clear.”
New York
Metropolitan Diary Challenge Day 2: How to Write Your N.Y. Story
Welcome to Day 2 of the Metropolitan Diary challenge, part of our celebration of the column’s 50th anniversary. On Day 1, we gave you tips for identifying your New York City story. Today, we’ll help you write it. (Missed Day 1? It’s not too late to start.)
What makes for a good Diary? It’s simply a good story that happens to be set in, and capture, the essential New York-ness of the city. While this isn’t a full writing course, we do have guidance on the kinds of elements that the submissions we publish include. They typically have: a beginning, middle and end; sharp details; catchy dialogue; a bit of surprise; some humor, warmth or emotion. But there is no formula, so flouting these loose rules can be worthwhile.
Don’t worry if you don’t think of yourself as a “writer.” Focus on being a “storyteller.” Pretend you are telling your story to the person who’d most appreciate it, using whatever conversational language or pacing that would hold their attention. Do it out loud if you want, maybe give that person a call and tell them your story (or tell it to them again). Then write it down.
That’s the big picture. For more tips, read on.
Here is an example of a published Diary that we (and readers) really liked, and a few thoughts on why that may help crystallize yours.
Unacceptable
Dear Diary:
I went to a new bagel store in Brooklyn Heights1 with my son.
When it was my turn to order, I asked for a cinnamon raisin bagel with whitefish salad and a slice of red onion.2
The man behind the counter looked up at me.
“I’m sorry,” he said. “I can’t do that.”3
— Richie Powers
One of this item’s best qualities is that it is short and snappy. Only 53 words! Although we will use stories of up to 300 words, many don’t need to be that long and the column doesn’t work if we don’t have a mix of long, medium and short, so we are always looking for stuff like this. Here’s another one!
At Attention
Dear Diary:
It was December 1967. I had just finished basic training at Fort Dix in New Jersey and was traveling to Boston in uniform. For reasons I no longer recall, I stopped in New York City on the way.1
Walking on the Upper East Side2 in a snowstorm, I spied another man in a uniform. He was older, and his cap bore the familiar gold band that identified him as an officer.
I rendered a snappy salute. It was not returned. 3The uniform was unfamiliar, so I guessed he was a foreign officer. Military courtesy still required me to salute.
A little farther down the street, I encountered another officer and offered another salute that went unacknowledged.4 His uniform was strange to me as well.
The third time it happened, the man I saluted ignored me while holding the door for a couple 5on their way into a large apartment building.
I realized I had been saluting doormen.6
— Stephen Salisbury
To get your storytelling muscles going, think through or jot down the answers to some of these questions.
Let’s start with setting the scene.
- When and where in the city did this happen? Is this place well-known?
- Was there anything particular about that point in your life that’s relevant?
- What did you see, hear, smell? Was there something notable about the weather?
Now, let’s move to the middle, the meat of the story.
- Did you have an exchange with someone?
- What details are important to how events unfolded, especially in setting up the ending?
And now, the end.
- What’s the resolution? Is there a punchline?
- Does the story end with a sense of shared humanity or some other warm feeling that lingers? You don’t need to name it. A good description will often allow readers to feel it too.
- Why has this experience stayed with you?
- Lines like “and that’s why I love New York” are almost always unnecessary.
That’s it. Keep your story simple and use the kind of plain language you use in conversation. You are sketching a moment in time. The details are important. Let them move the story along. Have fun and good luck.
Once you’re done, read through what you’ve got. What details are less important and can be left out? (Remember, there is a strict 300-word limit.)
Write your Metropolitan Diary however you like, on paper, on your phone or wherever! When you’re happy with what you’ve written, put your diary entry into the box below, fill out your information and submit it. You might just hear from me about including it in a future column.
This is the official submission form, so make sure to double-check your work before hitting submit.
That’s it! Submit your Metropolitan Diary.
By transmitting your submission, you grant The New York Times Company a perpetual, royalty-free license to use the submission in any medium. They may be edited, and may be republished and adapted in all media. You may reprint your story elsewhere after it appears in The Times.
New York
Read the Indictment of Malik Beasley
65.
In or about and between December 2023 and April 2024, both dates being approximate and inclusive, within the Eastern District of New York and elsewhere, the defendants MALIK BEASLEY, also known as “Beas,” “Bease,” “MB” and “5,” WILLIAM BROWN, also known as “Willo,” EDWARD DAVIS, also known as “Ed,” “ED” and “E Davis,” ROBERT GORODETSKY, also known as “Rob,” ERNESTO PLASCENCIA, also known as “Ernie,” “Erny,” “Ernie P” and “Erny P,” and PAOLO ZAMORANO, also known as “PZ,”
together with others, did knowingly and intentionally conspire:
(a)
to conduct one or more financial transactions in and affecting
interstate commerce, which transactions in fact involved the proceeds of specified unlawful activity, to wit: (i) wire fraud, in violation of Title 18, United States Code, Section 1343 and (ii) sports bribery, in violation of Title 18, United States Code, Section 224, knowing that the property involved in the transactions represented the proceeds of some form of unlawful activity, and with the intent to promote the carrying on of the specified unlawful activity, contrary to Title 18, United States Code, Section 1956(a)(1)(A)(i);
(b)
to conduct one or more financial transactions in and affecting interstate commerce, which transactions in fact involved the proceeds of some form of unlawful activity, to wit: (i) wire fraud, in violation of Title 18, United States Code, Section 1343 and (ii) sports bribery, in violation of Title 18, United States Code, Section 224, knowing that the property involved in the transactions represented the proceeds of some form of unlawful activity, and knowing that the transactions were designed in whole and in part to conceal and disguise the
19
New York
How a Global Researcher Lives on $110,000 in Long Island City
How can people possibly afford to live in one of the most expensive cities on the planet? It’s a question New Yorkers hear a lot, often delivered with a mix of awe, pity and confusion.
We surveyed hundreds of New Yorkers about how they spend, splurge and save. We found that many people — rich, poor or somewhere in between — live life as a series of small calculations that add up to one big question: What makes living in New York worth it?
Weixun Hu enjoys what might sound like the ultimate professional perk. New Yorkers pay some of the country’s highest taxes on their income, more than $12,000 on average per person between state and local governments. But Mr. Hu’s income tax this year? $0.
That’s because Mr. Hu, 32, who was born in Guangzhou, China, conducts social development research at an international organization, where most employees are exempt from national income taxes or reimbursed for the cost. His gross and net income are one in the same; he earns roughly $110,000 after his insurance and pension contributions.
Mr. Hu became one of New York City’s 3.1 million foreign-born residents nearly three years ago, after reassignment from a post in Bangkok in the summer of 2023. But he quickly ran into a hurdle: finding an apartment with no credit history, no tax returns and no one to co-sign a lease.
“It sounds very cool that you don’t pay taxes,” Mr. Hu said. “It also creates a lot of problems.”
He discovered that many of his co-workers landed in a handful of pricey residential developments including Stuyvesant Town. Yet renting there felt worlds apart from Thailand’s capital city, where a luxury studio in a high-rise condo with a rooftop infinity pool and premium gym might run $600 per month.
So he found a studio in Long Island City, Queens, where he has in-unit laundry and falls asleep to the sound of waves hitting the shore near Hunters Point South. His employer subsidizes $700 of his $3,900 rent, and utilities and internet cost about $150 monthly.
“It’s much better value compared to renting in Manhattan,” he said.
Saving for Tomorrow
A good deal of young adults in New York City don’t know how to drive, and expect to remain renters for most of their lives. Not Mr. Hu.
He puts away $2,000 or so a month into a high-yield savings account, aspiring to buy a car. His sights are set on a Mazda CX-5. But he expects he’ll need to pay upfront in cash, another consequence of lacking a credit or tax history — and it’ll take about three more years to build up enough.
Eventually, he wants to own a home. “I know most people in New York City don’t care,” he said. “But for me, it’s very important.”
Mr. Hu also supports his parents in their retirement, sending about $3,000 every three months. As their only child, he feels both a sense of guilt for living about 8,000 miles from home — and an obligation to pay them back for their sacrifices.
“People will say, ‘Oh, you’re single. You don’t have a wife. You don’t have kids,’” he said. “‘So all your money is yours.’”
“And I’m like, ‘Excuse me, my parents are still alive.’”
In other ways, though, Mr. Hu fits the profile of an everyday bachelor: He rarely cooks meals at home. “My oven is basically storage space.”
Rather, he searches for affordable deals on Too Good To Go, a popular app where restaurants sell excess food at a discounted price. His No. 1 spot is Chinese Musician in Greenpoint, which offers a three-course meal for $9.
Sometimes, Mr. Hu does the $16 tonkotsu ramen at Nishida Sho-ten on 49th Street for lunch, an $8 lamb over rice meal for dinner from the halal truck in front of Bellevue Hospital or a hot dog for $3.25 from Gray’s Papaya. He’ll swing by the Dollar General in Astoria to stock up on his favorite drink, Coca-Cola Orange Cream.
And he saves up for an upscale dining experience every couple of months. He recently feasted at the Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud’s steakhouse, La Tête d’Or, where he spent roughly $300 and ordered what he called the standout filet mignon.
The Lions Over the Knicks
For any sports buff, it’s an incredible time to live in New York City.
But for Mr. Hu, ticket prices to see the Knicks play at Madison Square Garden felt “a little bit off-putting” — and that was even before their championship run. So he started religiously following basketball at Columbia, going to games that often run $10 to $12 on the Morningside Heights campus.
Yankees games, where a 400-level seat might run $45, are a no; he opts to watch the Columbia Lions up close at Robertson Field in Inwood without charge.
He is willing to spend up to about $300 on some singular sports showdowns. He can still recall how Kylian Mbappé flew down the field at MetLife Stadium during a Real Madrid match against Borussia Dortmund last summer.
Typically, though, he elects for low- or no-cost events like this spring’s edition of the Madison Avenue Gallery Walk.
And he regularly joins free lectures at the Asia Society, where he has a complimentary membership through his employer, and at local universities like N.Y.U., where he’s met the minds behind two of his favorite video games, The Elder Scrolls and Monument Valley.
A Sense of Wanderlust
Ever since Mr. Hu can recall, he’s felt a magnetic pull to experience the world. And few things embody such a yearning as aviation.
He sometimes goes to Canarsie to watch planes land at Kennedy International Airport, studying the way pilots pull up the nose of their aircrafts and slow the descent before touching down. He’s even found others who share his passion on walks in the neighborhood.
And traveling draws him even closer to his hobby.
He spent $4,400 on a trip to Guangzhou last June to fly for the first time in an Airbus A380, the only full-length double-deck aircraft in the world. Qatar Airways is one of the few airlines that still has an active fleet — so Mr. Hu arranged his trip by way of Doha.
“Some people treat it as bragging,” he said. “But no, it’s just to admire such an incredible machine that’s very rare to be seen these days.”
“It’s a weird, niche hobby, but I’m happy spending my money on it.”
As a young man living in his seventh country — after Belgium, China, Italy, Poland, Thailand and the United Kingdom — he appreciates that as “a foreigner in this city, you don’t have to worry about whether you stand out.”
He’s relished exploring from Crown Heights to Jackson Heights, taking the train to a random stop and popping into bodegas to chat up the owners. He considers Staten Island — and its Chinese Scholar’s Garden in Snug Harbor where adult admission costs $5 — to be a hidden gem.
And when he boarded the U.S.S. Bataan during a past Fleet Week, he felt obliged to tell a Marine that he was Chinese. “He said: ‘Oh, no worries at all. Everybody can be an American’.”
“To be honest, I still don’t think it’s a value option for the money,” Mr. Hu said of New York City. “But there’s something so unique, and I think it’s that inclusiveness.”
“You don’t need to go to the world,” he said. “The world comes to you.”
We are talking to New Yorkers about how they spend, splurge and save.
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