Lifestyle
When Does a Shoe Stop Being a Shoe?
On Tuesday, during its cruise show in Biarritz, Chanel introduced a creation that was not so much a shoe as a sh—. Not a sandal but a san—. Just small bits of leather cupping the model’s heels, held in place by angel-hair straps tied over the instep. The model’s feet, from about mid-arch to the toes, were left naked to feel the plush ivory carpet on which they walked. I am sure they were thankful it was not a stark cement floor.
Chanel said the designer Matthieu Blazy “wanted to evoke the down-to-earth feeling of a woman coming out of the beach or the sea.” The result was, it said, “shoes that almost look like jewelry.”
Indeed, this design is gossamer to the point of becoming a metaphysical paradox. (I believe it was Freud who went mad positing when does a shoe stop being a shoe, right?) But really, these heel caps represent irrational, nonsensical luxury at the highest tier — shoes made for feet that never touch the ground. Maaaaybe these are for your private spread in Capri, not the lowly public beaches of Delaware. Also, these shoes — if they are produced, of course — provide the rich with a chance to show off their Chanel-caliber wealth, even while barefoot.
As stunty as these shoes are, it’s worth pointing out the extent to which fashion brands are reconsidering what a shoe can be and how to charge money for less and less coverage.
What is the success of Margiela’s cloven Tabi boots if not a testament to the fact that people want to turn their lower extremities into an alien form? We’re in the shadow of the Row’s $890 jellies and Alaïa’s $990 fishnet flats. It goes on. This spring, JW Anderson is selling flip-flops shaped like a Monstera leaf, and Balenciaga’s got a platform thong in satin.
Chanel has deduced that you can’t add to a shoe to make it extraordinary anymore. To cut through, you have to strip it all away. Or, I guess, strip it half away.
Fashion’s Most Insatiable Collector
A retrospective is opening today at the Design Museum in London on the A Bathing Ape founder, current Kenzo designer and world champion collector of stuff: the Japanese designer Nigo. When the museum first contacted me about the exhibition, which encompasses more than 700 artifacts, largely from the designer’s archive, I thought how could that be? Over the years, Nigo has had several highly publicized auctions of his holdings. Turns out, there was always more. Here are a few highlights from the show, which runs until October.
The custom denim jacket was made by Levi’s for Bing Crosby. As the story goes, Crosby was turned away at the Vancouver Hotel in 1951 for wearing denim, which was deemed déclassé. Smelling a PR opportunity, Levi’s made him a denim tux, which Nigo later bought and wore.
Growing up in Japan, Nigo was smitten by American musicians like Buddy Holly. He would later remake his version of Holly’s blocky-block eyeglasses and purchase a signed copy of the singer’s high school yearbook.
What’s notable about this 30ish-year-old sweatshirt, an early design for Nigo’s Bape label, is that it’s produced by Camber, a manufacturer in Pennsylvania. It’s a testament to how Japanese designers often hold American-made clothes in higher regard than many Americans do.
Ask Vanessa
Does my handbag need to match my shoes, my coat or what? Does that rule even matter anymore, and if so, where and when does it apply? — Madeleine, New York
The “matchy-matchy rule” — which is to say, the idea that you should match the color of your handbag to your shoes or your outfit — is a sort of postwar, midcentury-modern (or not-so-modern) trope, originally sold as an easy hack to demonstrate sophistication and attention to detail. Read more.
The Japanese T-shirts so many of you wanted to know about are …
A number of you have written to ask about the T-shirt in the photo illustration at the top of my article on Japanese designers. Unfortunately, that was just an illustration. Sorry!
If you are looking for something similar — a heavyweight tee with a sturdy neckline — the Uniqlo U T-shirts are close. As are those from Lady White Co. and Velva Sheen. My advice. though: Try eBay. I’ve found the bulk of my shirts by searching “vintage deadstock white T-shirt.” Simple white tees are ones of those things that were made better back in the day.
Other things worth knowing about:
Lifestyle
Dave Eggers on why using AI to speak for you "is such a crime against yourself"
Lifestyle
Inside Farfetch’s Strategy for a New Era of Luxury Experience
Lifestyle
‘Disclosure Day’ star Josh O’Connor received a ‘genius’ late-night text from Spielberg
In Disclosure Day, Josh O’Connor plays a cybersecurity expert who has proof that aliens are among us.
Niko Tavernise/Universal Pictures
hide caption
toggle caption
Niko Tavernise/Universal Pictures
Actor Josh O’Connor says one of the best bits of acting advice he ever received came in the midst of filming Disclosure Day, the latest summer blockbuster from director Steven Spielberg.
In the film, O’Connor plays a cybersecurity expert who gets hold of the government’s proof that aliens are among us and decides the rest of the world has a right to see the evidence. O’Connor wasn’t sure how vulnerable to make the character. Then he received a late-night text from Spielberg, saying: “The door is on the latch, just push.”
“And it unlocked the whole scene for me,” O’Connor says. “It’s like the emotions, just push the door, let it out. And I was like, ‘It’s genius. It’s beautiful. It’s poetical.’”
The next day on set, O’Connor thanked Spielberg for the feedback, and the director admitted that the message had been a misfire: It was an instructional text, meant for his wife as he was headed to bed. “But he killed two birds with one stone, and he doesn’t mind me telling the story. He likes the story, so it’s OK,” O’Connor says.

O’Connor previously starred in the British film God’s Own Country and he won an Emmy Award for his portrayal of Prince Charles in The Crown. Disclosure Day is his first foray into the world of big-budget blockbusters — but he says the experience wasn’t so different from some of the smaller projects he’s worked on.
“The actual day-to-day making of a movie, the collaborative nature of making a movie is pretty much exactly the same. … How do we portray this story in the best possible way?” he says. “[Spielberg] kind of keeps his set small. It feels like a sacred space for performance.”
Interview highlights
On his practice of making a scrapbook for every character he plays
The scrapbook thing comes right back from when I … made God’s Own Country, so it was a good like 12, maybe 12 years ago now. … You could call it a scrapbook or a kind of character Bible, a kind of a manual for how to access this character’s memory. So if you’re struggling with a scene, trying to get into the psychology of this fictional character, it’s like, well, let’s look at the scrapbook. …
I’ve used it for pretty much every character I’ve played since, but the form of this one [for Disclosure Day] was slightly different because we were shooting here in New York and I had an apartment in Manhattan … [with] this huge wall and I just started sketching images. I had this idea that Daniel had a sort of memory somewhere lodged in the kind of recesses of his mind of visions he’d had when he was a child and so these charcoal drawings became a kind of obsession … kind of inspired by the character in Close Encounters — you know, someone who uses art to understand their mind. … I did a lot of that and I put them up on the wall. And then I invited [co-star] Eve Hewson over for dinner to meet her and to chat about the film. And she walked in and she looked so mortified by this quite alarming wall, which looked like a crime scene. And so … I sort of very quickly took that down.
On his portrayal of Prince Charles in the Netflix series The Crown
At the beginning, I had a phone call from my agent saying that they’d like to meet you to play Prince Charles in The Crown, and my initial reaction was no, thank you. … I believe in a more equal society and the construct of a monarchy makes that very difficult. … [Also] I didn’t have an interest in the royal family, didn’t necessarily read much about them. …

But [the series creator] Peter Morgan said this thing to me, which really helped and unlocked a lot for me. He said … “Here is a character who is waiting for his mother to die in order for his life to take meaning.” And that was kind of enough for me to get my teeth into, and then from there it was about constantly coloring everything he does with the same sort of textures that you or I might feel around family, which is: How do you get the respect and the acclaim of your parents? How do we please our parents?
On working on a farm in order to prepare for his role in the 2017 film God’s Own Country
I moved up to Yorkshire in the North of England and I worked on … the farm that we were gonna shoot on. … I had this period where I was just there [and] there were no film cameras, nothing. There was no crew. I was there living and working with John, the farmer. And then at some point, the film crew turn up and I’m no longer his farm hand. I’m an actor. I have a job to do. But that didn’t stop John. … He was like, “Look at these annoying film guys who’ve just taken away my farmhand.” And so there’ll be days where I’d be filming, shooting a scene and then they’d call “Cut,” and John would be sort of waiting at the barn door, kind of a little hacked off that he’d lost his guy, and he was like, “Get back to work.” And so then I’d, you know, birth a lamb and then wash my hands and do another take.
On the grief he feels when a project wraps up
Even when I was a kid doing like school plays, I’d finish the play and my mom would always be like, “You know, he’ll be sick, he will get ill.” And I did, I’d always get ill. Pretty much, without fail, every job I’ve done in my career, I get sick at the end. And I think there is a grief that happens. You have to fall in love with this character, and you have to combine a bit of yourself and a bit of this fiction, and then you live as that character for two, three months, sometimes six months. And then it ends.
Lauren Krenzel and Nico Gonzalez Wisler produced and edited this interview for broadcast. Bridget Bentz and Beth Novey adapted it for the web.
-
New York1 hour agoVideo: Knicks Fans Rejoice After Game 4 Victory
-
Los Angeles, Ca1 hour agoPolice chase suspected DUI driver in Los Angeles County
-
Detroit, MI1 hour ago
Opening of Canada-US bridge in Detroit that Trump threatened to block is delayed
-
San Francisco, CA2 hours agoGoing to San Francisco Pride 2026? Parade Times, Maps, Street Closures and Safety Advice | KQED
-
Dallas, TX2 hours agoWoman arrested in Dallas food delivery turned ambush shooting in March, officials say
-
Miami, FL2 hours ago2026 Miami Football Early Opponent Preview, Game 2: Florida A&M
-
Boston, MA2 hours agoMinivan in rollover wreck in Dorchester – Boston News, Weather, Sports | WHDH 7News
-
Denver, CO2 hours agoIs Denver hosting 2026 World Cup matches? No, and here’s why