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The zero per cent party

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The zero per cent party
Hekate, a non-alcoholic bar within the East Village © Dolly Faibyshev for the FT

I ring the bell exterior an innocuous Brooklyn storefront, its home windows obscured by frosted glass. The door creaks open, and I’m ushered right into a crowd of revellers.

As a psychedelic space-rock duo strut their stuff on stage, I sneak previous a curtain within the again the place a bartender is slinging up spicy margaritas, elderflower-infused champagne cocktails and citrusy spritzers. She tells me I ought to begin with the No 3: a Cucumber Collins-esque concoction spiked with alpine herbs, flowers and ashwagandha, a purportedly stress-reducing medicinal herb. I oblige.

Sipping my drink, I survey the room: it’s identical to some other “speakeasy” I’ve stumbled into in New York. Aside from one evident element: it doesn’t serve any alcohol.

This cease at Membership Curious, a month-to-month, quickly to be weekly, fête placed on by booze-free cocktail firm Curious Elixirs, is the most recent of many in my “sober curious” journey.

My relationship with alcohol has adopted a well-known course: faculty days funnelling down low-cost beer within the Florida solar, espresso-martini-fuelled nights traversing Manhattan in my early twenties, and a newer proclivity for mezcal.

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I’ve definitely in the reduction of in recent times, as one does when hangovers start to really feel much less like minor inconveniences. I washed my pure wines down with loads of water and inexperienced juice the next morning. However the post-party signs few folks discuss can be ready for me nonetheless: nervousness and melancholy.

What I did know is that I used to be bored with having them. And, because it seems, I’m not the one one seeking to shake issues up. Round 80 per cent of the clientele at Sèchey, the non-alcoholic bottle store that not too long ago opened its second department and a speakeasy, in New York’s West Village, don’t think about themselves sober, says founder Emily Heintz.

A woman behind a bar pours the content of a glass bottle into a drinking glass
Sèchey’s speakeasy within the West Village © Dolly Faibyshev for the FT

Non-alcoholic cocktail components and a cheerful however sober drinker at Sèchey © Dolly Faibyshev for the FT
© Dolly Faibyshev for the FT

“It’s extra of a drink-less crowd than a sober crowd,” a Sèchey retail worker tells me as her colleague pours me a cup of one thing that appears — and smells — suspiciously like a gin and tonic.

The style is one thing new altogether. Blended in with the bitter tonic is a shot of Bax Botanics’ Verbena spirit. It’s layered, floral, citrusy and brilliant. There’s thyme, fennel and a protracted, zingy end that lingers on the tongue like somewhat hug.

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The purpose isn’t to imitate the style of gin, therefore the shortage of juniper. That is what’s recognized as a substitute spirit, a grown-up beverage that may maintain its personal.

For these looking for one thing nearer to the true factor, there is no such thing as a scarcity of curiosities. GinISH, an alcohol-free model from Copenhagen, distils, steams and extracts its botanicals to create the style of a basic London dry and recreates the burning sensation of alcohol by extracting the warmth molecules from the shells of chilli seeds.

The multiverse that’s non-alcoholic wine is simply as fascinating. There are de-alcoholised variations, aka wine that began as wine to start with, with the alcohol eliminated after fermentation. There are additionally various blends, which comprise herbs, spices, vinegars and different pure components to imitate the style of wine — best for teetotallers who need to maintain issues really zero-proof. Even after the de-alcoholisation course of, some buzz-free manufacturers can nonetheless comprise as much as 0.5 per cent alcohol by quantity.

Then, after all, there are “purposeful spirits”. These embrace drinks infused with CBD (cannabidiol), in addition to a variety of libations containing components referred to as adaptogens, a buzzword within the non-alcoholic world. It actually simply means crops and mushrooms with supposed well being advantages, similar to serving to the physique to handle stress.

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The science isn’t precisely there. I’ve been making an attempt a bunch over the previous few weeks (holy basil for rest, maca as a mood-booster, the aforementioned ashwagandha) and enjoying a enjoyable recreation of, “is that this really making me much less confused, or am I simply much less confused as a result of I haven’t been hungover recently?”

The day after my go to to Membership Curious, I used to be strolling my canine previous a store on Bedford Avenue that I should have handed numerous occasions earlier than, however hadn’t observed. It’s one other booze-free bottle store, Boisson. I seize a Phony Negroni, made by Brooklyn distiller St Agrestis. As I crack it open a couple of hours later, my pal asks me if I’ve ever heard of Absence of Proof.

“Funnily sufficient,” I stated, “I simply acquired off the cellphone along with her.” The “her” in query is Elizabeth Gascoigne, the lady behind the non-alcoholic pop-up bar in New York. Quickly, in an indication of how small the sober-curious world is, Absence of Proof shall be opening up a residence within the speakeasy under Sèchey, each Friday night in January.

Whereas the world of entrepreneurs within the house continues to be tight-knit, the scene is attracting partygoers from all ends of the “sober-curious spectrum”, says Gascoigne. “Possibly Friday evening they went out ingesting and on Saturday evening they’re, like, I don’t must drink tonight in anyway.”

Launching a non-alcoholic bar has attracted its cynics. “You get malicious feedback: generally a one-liner like ‘you’re boring’ or ‘you’re lame’, and I feel, I simply form of must brush this apart as a result of there’s nothing I can do about that,” she says.

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“We’ve stabilised to about 100 folks per evening,” says Gascoigne, including that she has been fielding requests for occasions in different cities.

Absence of Proof’s menu is ever-evolving, with alcohol-free takes on espresso martinis, spicy margaritas, lychee martinis and whiskey sours. It doesn’t matter what the mocktail, although, a nagging query persists from social media hecklers and the sober curious alike: why would I pay cocktail costs for a drink with no alcohol?

Ticketed occasions resolve that downside for now — patrons pay for the expertise of an evening out with bottomless mocktails, fairly than the drinks themselves.


At Hekate, a witchy little sober hang-out within the East Village, it’s the expertise, not simply the mocktails, that retains prospects coming again. “Folks go to bars for neighborhood, they go to get out of their flats . . . there’s 1,000,000 causes,” the bar’s proprietor Abby Ehmann tells me. “I believed, properly, when you don’t drink, the place do you get to go?”

Named for the legendary goddess of magic and spells, Hekate exists in a realm of its personal. Tarot readers, psychics, artists and musicians frequent its barstools. The group is unsurprising, in a method. What’s extra countercultural at the moment than not ingesting alcohol?

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Potions embrace the Satan’s Evening (Lyre’s Apertif Rosso, Lyre’s Prosecco and fragrant bitters) and The Healer (Apothekary’s Blue Me Away, lemonade, seltzer and lavender easy syrup).

A women sips a non-alcoholic drink from a glass
Hekate is known as for the legendary goddess of magic and spells © Dolly Faibyshev for the FT

Ehmann, who owns one other joint throughout the road, isn’t within the nightlife recreation to make a fortune. “Should you go to my common bar, there’s no Southern Consolation, no Jack Daniel’s, no Anheuser-Busch and no televisions. All these choices are designed to show away 85 per cent of enterprise. Know what I imply? I’m simply not an excellent capitalist,” she shrugs. For these which might be, there’s cash to be made ushering sober curiosity into the mainstream.

“We’ve had Diageo strategy us at the very least 4 occasions,” says JW, Curious Elixirs’ founder who moonlights at its Brooklyn speakeasy because the resident social gathering purveyor. The multinational behind Gordon’s gin, Smirnoff vodka and Baileys Irish Cream has been scorching on the heels of the non-alcoholic motion, shopping for majority management of gin various Seedlip in 2019. A 700ml bottle prices round $32.

For now, Curious has turned down advances from deep-pocketed suitors, together with Budweiser proprietor AB InBev. A extra urgent focus is to land itself on extra menus, JW tells me. “Our mission is to remodel how we drink socially . . . and that can take generations to attain. The proper companions on the proper time can assist that.”

The corporate’s elixirs are already served in Michelin-starred haunts, together with New York’s Cote and Daniel, and The French Laundry in Napa Valley. “We’re making an attempt to clarify to them that they’re simply leaving cash on the desk,” says JW. “One in eight Individuals doesn’t drink . . . they’re thirsting for one thing extraordinary.” 

We’re standing on the bar at Membership Curious as I ponder what to order subsequent. I choose No 8, a wealthy, bittersweet mix of blackberry, blueberry, fig and adaptogenic mushrooms (reishi, chaga and lion’s mane) that calls for to be sipped slowly. Blackstrap molasses offers it an inky, acidic sweetness.

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JW pulls out a distant management that appears prefer it’s from the Nineteen Eighties and tells me to press the “8” button. One thing explodes behind us. He laughs gleefully. I’d be shocked on the antics, besides I simply noticed a person put methane-filled cleaning soap bubbles in his palm and set them alight.

I’m wondering for a second if the mushrooms have gotten to me, earlier than realising that I’m simply surrounded by individuals who appear to have this complete having-fun-without-alcohol factor found out. JW isn’t any stranger to mainstream nightlife, although.

In 2010, he helped launch The Whiskey Brooklyn — a spot that also performs host to many a debaucherous evening — and likewise invested in Williamsburg’s Output, a well-liked techno nightclub that shut down in 2018.

One notably raucous evening out, he tells me, he consumed round 20 drinks and wakened, nonetheless having the ability, to his shock, to perform. He felt alarmed at how used his physique had grow to be to the stuff.

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So started the self-described cocktail nerd’s voyage into the alcohol-free house. He started tinkering within the kitchen in an try and recreate his favorite drinks, together with one impressed by the Blood and Sand (a basic blood orange and Scotch combo from the nineteenth century) and a Cocoa Puff Previous Long-established from Miami’s Damaged Shaker bar. The non-alcoholic reincarnation has smoked cherry and chocolate, with cayenne and American oak to mimic the mild burn and smoky aftertaste of whiskey.

I ask him how one produces oak extract with out alcohol. “That I’ll by no means inform,” he grins.

A couple of days later, I’m at a pal’s vacation social gathering, sipping on one thing of my very own creation that’s one half Optimist Botanicals’ Recent — an herbaceous mix of juniper, cilantro, tangerine, and habanero amongst others — pomegranate juice, and a few egg whites for somewhat foam.

Glasses of Lambrusco are handed round. I discover myself craving the tiny bubbles and deep cherry notes, questioning whether or not a non-alcoholic model will hit the market any time quickly.

It’s solely a matter of time.

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UCLA cancels classes as clashes over Gaza war spread across US campuses

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UCLA cancels classes as clashes over Gaza war spread across US campuses

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University campuses from New York to Los Angeles simmered with rage and recriminations on Wednesday as they dealt with the fallout from police operations to quash protests over the war in Gaza.

The University of California, Los Angeles cancelled classes for the day after a violent night-time attack by counter-protesters on an encampment set up by pro-Palestinian student demonstrators.

In New York, mayor Eric Adams blamed “outside agitators” for escalating anti-Israel demonstrations at Columbia University as he defended his police department’s conduct. New York police made 282 arrests at Columbia and further uptown at New York’s City College on Tuesday night.

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Columbia said its exams and classes would be remote for the remainder of the academic year, with a police presence remaining on campus until May 17 — two days after graduation.

As the situation eased at Columbia and City College, a new encampment sprung up at Fordham University’s campus in midtown Manhattan, prompting further warnings of police action.

Pepper spray and fireworks were used during the clashes on UCLA’s campus, which began just before midnight. Police arrived in riot gear at about 1.40am but the clashes continued until about 3am.

LA mayor Karen Bass called for a full investigation into the “abhorrent and inexcusable” violence. “Those involved in launching fireworks at other people, spraying chemicals and physically assaulting others will be found, arrested and prosecuted, as well as anyone involved in any form of violence or lawlessness,” she said. “Free speech will be protected. Violence and bigotry will not.”

Gavin Newsom, California’s governor, criticised the response by the university and its security guards, saying “the limited and delayed campus law enforcement response at UCLA last night was unacceptable — and it demands answers”.

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The Jewish Federation of Los Angeles called the attack by the counter-protesters “abhorrent”, saying they “do not represent the Jewish community or our values”. But it also criticised the UCLA administration and called for the immediate closure of encampments.

“People are sad and upset,” said one UCLA faculty member. “Everybody wants freedom of speech and the right to protest but it’s getting out of hand. It was a surprise to everybody that violence broke out.”

The clashes at UCLA came after two weeks of controversy at the nearby University of Southern California, where administrators cancelled the graduation speech by the valedictorian, Asna Tabassum, a Muslim woman, citing security concerns.

In New York, officers equipped in riot gear stormed the Columbia campus late on Tuesday in a dramatic raid to oust protesters from two encampments and Hamilton Hall, a building they had seized the previous night.

Adams told MSNBC: “Many people thought that this was just a natural evolution of a protest. It was not. These were professionals that were here and I just want to send a clear message out that there are people who are harmful and trying to radicalise our children and we cannot ignore these outside influences.”

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The NYPD did not immediately release any details about the individuals involved, but Ben Chang, a Columbia spokesperson, echoed the mayor’s comments, saying the group that seized Hamilton Hall had been “led by individuals not affiliated with the university”.

Minouche Shafik, Columbia’s president, defended the decision to call in the police, writing to the university’s staff and students that protesters had “pushed the university to the brink” and her move came only after multiple attempts to de-escalate the situation through negotiations.

“Students and outside activists breaking Hamilton Hall doors, mistreating our public safety officers and maintenance staff, and damaging property are acts of destruction, not political speech,” she wrote on Wednesday. The university also said it was limiting access to campus, calling Hamilton Hall “an active crime scene”.

Protesters at Columbia had demanded the university divest from companies that profit from Israel and cut ties with an Israeli university. Many Jewish students complained vigorous activism had often boiled over into blatant antisemitism that would not have been tolerated by the administration if directed at other minority groups.

On Wednesday morning, the neighbourhood around the university was quiet after two weeks of drumbeating protests that prompted comparisons with the anti-Vietnam war demonstrations that rocked Columbia in 1968.

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The only sign of the previous night’s raid was the military vehicle used by the police to breach the second floor of Hamilton Hall. It was parked across the street from the campus.

Inside the gates, Columbia’s main lawn appeared to have been cleared of the dozens of tents, draped in signs and banners, that formed the “Gaza solidarity encampment”.

A student who did not want to be named said he found the occupation of Hamilton Hall to be “disruptive” but the police response “disproportionately” large nonetheless. Another student said “it was about time” to clear the encampment and that Shafik could have acted earlier to prevent the protests from escalating.

In another sign that the stand-off had ended, Columbia’s student radio station, WKCR, which became a mainstay for its round-the-clock news coverage of the protest, switched back to jazz and classical music on Wednesday morning.

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Hormones for menopause are safe, study finds. Here's what changed

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Hormones for menopause are safe, study finds. Here's what changed

Low-dose estrogen can be taken orally, but it’s also now available in patches, gels and creams.

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Low-dose estrogen can be taken orally, but it’s also now available in patches, gels and creams.

svetikd/Getty Images

The benefits of hormone therapy for the treatment of menopause symptoms outweigh the risks. That’s the conclusion of a new study published in the medical journal JAMA.

“Among women below the age of 60, we found hormone therapy has low risk of adverse events and [is] safe for treating bothersome hot flashes, night sweats and other menopausal symptoms, ” says study author Dr. JoAnn Manson, chief of preventive medicine at Brigham and Women’s Hospital. This is a departure from the advice many women have been given in the past.

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The new analysis is based on two decades of follow-up data from the Women’s Health Initiative study, which followed thousands of women taking hormone replacement therapy. The study was halted after it was found that women taking Prempro, which is a combination of estrogen and progestin, had higher risks of breast cancer and stroke.

“The findings were surprising,” Manson says, pointing out that the reason the randomized trial was conducted was because scientists were trying to determine if hormone therapy decreased the risk of heart disease and other conditions.

After the initial findings came out, many women abruptly stopped the therapy. Prescriptions plummeted, and many healthcare providers still hesitate to recommend hormone therapy. But menopause experts say it’s time to reconsider hormone therapy, because there’s a lot known now that wasn’t known two decades ago.

Most significantly, there are now different types of hormones — delivered at lower doses — that are shown to be safer.

“Women should know that hormone therapy is safe and beneficial,” says Dr. Lauren Streicher, a clinical professor of obstetrics and gynecology at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine.

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Looking back, Dr. Streicher says, it’s clear the Women’s Health Initiative study was flawed and that some of the risks that were identified were linked to the type of hormones that women were given.

“We learned what not to do,” Streicher says. The type of progestin used, known as medroxyprogesterone acetate, was “highly problematic,” she says. This was likely responsible for the increase in breast cancer seen among women in the study. “So we don’t prescribe that anymore,” Streicher says.

Increasingly, other types of hormones are used, such as micronized progesterone which does not increase the risk of breast cancer, ” Streicher says. Micronized progesterone is a bioidentical hormone that has a molecular structure identical to the progesterone produced by womens’ ovaries, and tends to have fewer side effects.

Another problem with the study was the age of the women enrolled. Most of the women were over the age of 60, Streicher says .” And we know that there is a window of opportunity when it is the safest to start hormone therapy and that you get the most benefit.” That window is typically between ages 50 and 60, she says.

Another risk identified in the Women’s Health Initiative study, was an increased incidence of pulmonary embolism among women taking hormones. A pulmonary embolism is a blood clot that blocks blood flow to the lungs.

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Since women in the study were taking estrogen orally, by pill, this may have increased their risk, Streicher says. A better option for people at risk of clots is to take estrogen through the skin, via a patch, a cream or gel.

“The advantage of a transdermal estrogen is that it is not metabolized by the liver,” Streicher says. “And because it’s not metabolized by the liver, we don’t see that increase in blood clots.”

With a range of hormone therapies available now, Dr Streicher says there’s not a one-size fits all approach. “Hormone therapy is beneficial way beyond the benefits to just helping with hot flashes,” she says. Ongoing research points to protection against bone loss and heart disease, too.

Streicher says women should talk to their healthcare providers about what options may best suit their needs.

This story was edited by Jane Greenhalgh

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Live news: Sell-off in cruise operators creates choppy conditions ahead of Viking IPO

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Live news: Sell-off in cruise operators creates choppy conditions ahead of Viking IPO

Fed decision: The US Federal Reserve is expected to keep the federal funds rate on hold at the conclusion of its two-day meeting. After a series of hotter than expected employment and inflation figures, investors will be listening for clues on when the central bank expects to cut interest rates.

US employment: US government data is expected to show that job openings in March edged down to 8.69mn from 8.75mn in February. Separately, ADP will release its US employment report for April, which will give some insight into the labour market before the official government figures on Friday. Private payrolls are expected to have added 175,000 jobs in April, compared with the 184,000 jobs added in March.

Pfizer: The pharmaceutical company is expected to report that quarterly revenue declined 23.4 per cent from the same period last year to $14bn, according to LSEG, as the company faces weak demand for its Covid-19 vaccine and antiviral medicine.

Other companies: CVS Health, KKR, Marriott International, Estée Lauder, Kraft Heinz, Yum Brands, and Norwegian Cruise Line will report earnings before the bell. DoorDash, eBay and Etsy will report after the markets close.

Manufacturing: Activity in the US manufacturing sector is expected to have remained in expansion territory, but April’s reading is forecast to have ticked down 0.3 percentage points to a reading of 50.

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