North Dakota
These Small Towns in North Dakota Have the Best Historic Districts
North Dakota sits at the crossroads of the continent and, as such, has played an important part in the history of the United States, especially during the settlement of the West. Featuring historic buildings and locations related to westward expansion, mining, and conflicts with Indigenous American tribes, the state boasts an impressive number of sites on the National Register of Historic Places. Many small towns are home to historic districts that are fascinating, relevant, and eclectic. Take a brief tour of small towns in the Peace Garden State and dive into their histories.
Medora
The Custer Military Trail Historic Archeological District contains five historic sites within its 18,000 acres that relate to the Plains Indian War, waged between 1864 and 1876. Located near the scenic town of Medora, the district features campsites of Custer’s 7th Cavalry on its way to the Little Bighorn. Visitors can also take in the Battle of the Badlands historic battlefield and see rocks with initials carved by some of Custer’s men.
While in the area, another historic site can be experienced roughly 35 miles north of Medora. Elkhorn Ranch was established by future President Theodore Roosevelt in 1884. Sitting on the banks of the Little Missouri River, the ranch was considered one of the success stories of post-Little Bighorn ranching in the north-central part of the country. Roosevelt hired two backwoodsmen from Maine to run the ranch, which they did quite well for several years, until the Starvation Winter of 1886-7 decimated the cattle stock. In addition to losing his interest in running a ranch, Roosevelt lost 60% of his herd and only returned to North Dakota a few times afterward.
Noonan
In the extreme northwest corner of the state, Noonan, in Divide County, boasts several historic sites worth a visit. Near the town of Noonan, one can see the Niels Nielsen Fourteen-Side Barn, a nearly round structure built in 1914 using a pre-fab kit purchased from the Chicago House Wrecking Company. On Main Street in Noonan, the Travelers Hotel has welcomed guests since 1910, including such distinguished visitors as railroad executive James Hill and sharpshooter Annie Oakley. The hotel has been on the National Register of Historic Places since 2010.
Sitting a short drive from Noonan, the Ambrose-Torquay Border Crossing connects Ambrose, North Dakota to Torquay, Saskatchewan, and is one of the relatively few international border crossings between Washington State and the Great Lakes, although Ambrose itself is now just a ghost town.
West Fargo
Bonanzaville must be your first stop in the West Fargo area. The best way to describe this one-stop shop is, if it happened in North Dakota in the past, it is represented here. From exploring life in the region 100 years ago, to the experience of the first settlers of the Red River valley, fans of history and culture will find plenty to keep busy. During Pioneer Days, the community is invited to bring their old tractors and farm machinery to show off.
The Red River Zoo is unlike most zoos you may visit. Their animals are very hands-on. Visitors can interact with many of them and even feed them, so it resembles a petting zoo in that respect. Also, in harmony with the area, the zoo focuses on cold-weather species, so you are sure to see animals not seen in zoos further south, and they are more likely to be active in winter months when other animals are more interested in huddling and hibernating.
Sports fans will want to experience the Roger Maris Museum. A shy and humble man, Maris declined the original offer to build a museum about him, but he later relented and agreed that it should be in his hometown. Although the museum does not keep statistics (strange for a sport obsessed with numbers), it is estimated that yearly visitors number in the millions.
Devil’s Lake
For lovers of all things outdoors, Devil’s Lake outshines the rest. The town serves as the gateway to the massive brackish lake that hosts boating, fishing, camping, hiking, skiing, and tubing. If it can be done on or near water, this gem in the center of the state has it covered. If camping is too rustic for your tastes, the Devil’s Lake area is peppered with finer resorts and lodges. If your idea of nightlife has less to do with sitting around a campfire and more with sitting around a green felt table, there are even casinos in the area.
Golfers will not want to miss out on the Coyotee Flats Golf Center, while Civil War enthusiasts must visit the Grand Army of the Republic Cemetery. The half-dozen waterfowl protection areas that surround the lake draw birdwatchers from around the world.
Mandan
Mandan, on the banks of the Missouri River, serves as your base to explore the center of the state, as well as the capital city. Cross the river into Bismarck to visit the Bismarck Cathedral Historic District, home to the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit. Built during the Second World War in the Art Deco style, it remains the seat of the Diocese of Bismarck. The Old Governor’s Mansion still stands in the middle of town, as does the Northern Pacific Railway Depot, which resembles an old Spanish mission of the Southwest. The Towne-Williams House is worth a look, as is the Camp Hancock Site.
A site of great interest to Indigenous American historians is Chief Looking’s Village, located in Pioneer Park. Since the site of the former Mandan settlement has been relatively untouched by archaeologists and vandals, it is of great value to researchers, as is the nearby Menoken Indian Village Site located about 20 miles away.
Cooperstown
Located in Griggs County, Cooperstown is one of the few places where you can tour a Cold War-era nuclear missile silo. The Oscar-Zero Missile Alert Facility is part of the Ronald Reagan Minuteman Missile State Historic Site and is open to visitors who remember the Cold War and those who would like to know more about it. The Topside Facilities Area includes the original recreational areas for the service men and women, including a lounge, pool tables and ping-pong tables, the old security center, and a visitor center. 50 feet below, visitors can tour the launch control center, which housed the missiles themselves, and the control rooms from where launch commands were issued. It is a somber and sobering reminder of a perilous world.
Hazen
Many culturally and historically important Indigenous American sites are located near Hazen in Mercer County, near the center of the state. Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site in nearby Stanton, contains the remains of three Hidatsa Indian villages that date back to around the year 1600. Visitors can see remains of earthen dwellings some of which were 40 feet across and 14 feet high. This site was immortalized in the travels of Lewis and Clark, as Sacagawea brokered peace between the explorers and Indigenous peoples.
Other nearby sites of Native American historical significance include the Turtle Effigy State Historic Site and the Fort Clark Trading Post Site, which at various times was home to the Mandan and Arikara peoples and later was the location of an American fur trading post.
North Dakota enjoys a rich history and rewards the visitor around every turn. With roots running deep through the history of American architecture, westward expansion, Native American history and culture, and even the recent history of the Cold War, North Dakota deserves more than passing glance. Towns with historic districts are found from one end of North Dakota to the other, so pack your bags and prepare to spend time among the lesser known parts of the state.
North Dakota
Today in History, 1971: Rugby repeats as North Dakota sand greens golf champion
On this day in 1971, Rugby repeated as North Dakota’s high school sand greens golf champion behind medalist Dwight Stempson’s winning performance.
Here is the complete story as it appeared in the paper that day:
Rugby Repeats As Sand Greens Golf Champion
RUGBY, N. D. — Rugby repeated as North Dakota high school sand greens golf champion here Wednesday, posting a four-man total of 293 strokes for 18 holes.
Led by medalist Dwight Stempson’s medalist 36-35 — 71, the Panthers were eight strokes ahead of runnerup Stanley, which had a 301. Following were Garrison 311, Beulah 315, Leeds 322, Ashley 323, Bottineau 328, Pembina 329, Tioga 332, Parshall 341 and Hettinger 342.
Stempson and teammate Bruce Carlson each had one-under par 71s, but Carlson was unable to be at the regional and wasn’t qualified for individual honors.
Rounding out the Rugby totals were Delwin Wilson 40-37 — 77 and Dennett Hutchinson 35-39 — 74. Gary Kirchoffner, 41-39 — 80, was Rugby’s fifth entrant with the best four-of-five scores counted.
Runnerup Stanley was led by Steve Springan’s 34-38 — 72 and Joe Springan’s 36-38 — 74. Their two-man total of 146 strokes was good enough for the doubles title. Two strokes back with a 148 was the duo of Stempson and Wilson. Stan Saathoff and Mike Stepina of Garrison each had 76s for a 152 total and the Ashley combo of Steve Maier (76) and Dave Kretschmar (78) was fourth with a 154.
Stempson was the driving contest winner with a distance of 280 yards. Chris Knutson of Garrison headed the pitch and putt competition.
Kate Almquist is the social media manager for InForum. After working as an intern, she joined The Forum full time starting in January 2022. Readers can reach her at kalmquist@forumcomm.com.
North Dakota
10 Small Towns In North Dakota Were Ranked Among US Favorites
Walhalla keeps the oldest buildings in North Dakota, fur-trade posts from the 1840s still standing near the Canadian line. Medora sits out in the Badlands, where a French aristocrat tried to build a beef empire in 1883. Garrison fishes one of the largest reservoirs in the country, and Jud has turned nearly every wall in town into a mural. The frontier era left marks across North Dakota that most of the Plains has paved over, and these ten towns still carry them. Each one holds a specific piece of the state’s history and geography.
Garrison
Garrison sits on the north shore of Lake Sakakawea, the reservoir the Garrison Dam holds back on the Missouri River and one of the largest reservoirs in the country. Anglers come year-round for walleye, northern pike, and chinook salmon, and the lake also draws boaters, campers, and shoreline hikers. In town, the open-air Heritage Park Museum preserves a one-room schoolhouse, a railroad depot, a country church, and a homesteader cabin from the turn of the last century. Fort Stevenson State Park, three miles southwest, marks the site of an 1860s military post with an interpretive guardhouse, a marina, a campground, and lakeside trails. Garrison leans into its self-declared title as the Walleye Capital of North Dakota with Wally the Walleye, a 26-foot fiberglass fish on Main Street.
Mayville
Mayville State University anchors this Red River Valley town in Traill County. The public four-year college opened in 1889 as one of the six original state normal schools authorized at North Dakota statehood, and its calendar still drives the town through Comet athletics, theater productions, and the annual Festival of Trees. Island Park, set along the Goose River where it runs through downtown, holds the town’s main recreation space with picnic areas, playgrounds, and a community pool. The volunteer-tended Rainbow Garden along the riverbank mixes themed plantings with folk-art sculptures. The Mayville Water Park runs its pool and slides from Memorial Day through Labor Day.
Lisbon
Lisbon grew up along the Sheyenne River in Ransom County as a Northern Pacific Railroad town, and its 1889 Opera House, now restored and on the National Register, still hosts theater and music. Brick storefronts from the same era line Main Street. Just south of town, the Sheyenne National Grassland protects 70,000 acres of tallgrass prairie, the largest publicly owned tallgrass prairie in the country, with trails open to hikers, riders, and limited hunting. Prairiewood Vineyard, about six miles out, grows cold-climate grapes and pours tastings on weekends.
Fort Ransom
Fewer than 100 people live in Fort Ransom year-round, deep in the wooded Sheyenne River Valley. Fort Ransom State Park preserves the site of an 1867 Army outpost built to guard settlers and the wagon route toward the Black Hills, and it now offers camping, paddling on the Sheyenne, and cross-country skiing. The park’s Sodbuster Days each September run horse-powered farming, threshing, and traditional-craft demonstrations, and the Sheyenne Valley Arts and Crafts Festival fills it over the Fourth of July weekend. The town anchors the Sheyenne River Valley Scenic Byway, a 63-mile route through some of the most varied terrain in the state.
Devils Lake
Devils Lake takes its name from the Dakota “Mni Wak’áŋ,” or Spirit Water, and sits beside the largest natural lake in North Dakota. Between 1993 and 2011, floodwaters more than doubled the lake, swelling it from roughly 70 square miles to over 200 and swallowing roads, farms, and woodland as it rose. Today it holds one of the most productive perch and walleye fisheries in the Upper Midwest. Graham’s Island State Park, on the western shore, is the main access point, with cabins, a campground, a swimming beach, and boat ramps. Fort Totten State Historic Site nearby preserves an 1867 military post with sixteen original buildings restored to tell its story through 1890.
Medora
Medora is the gateway to the south unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, set in the Badlands of western North Dakota. The Marquis de Mores, a French aristocrat, founded the town in 1883 and named it for his American wife, Medora von Hoffman; his Chateau de Mores hunting lodge still stands as a state historic site with the family’s original furnishings. The Maltese Cross Cabin, near the park visitor center, is the cabin Theodore Roosevelt used during his 1880s ranching years, the period that shaped his later conservation work. Each summer the Burning Hills Amphitheatre stages the Medora Musical, a Western-themed show running since 1965 in a natural bluff theater over the Badlands. The North Dakota Cowboy Hall of Fame keeps permanent exhibits on ranching, rodeo, and Indigenous horse culture.
Walhalla
Walhalla, founded in 1845 on the banks of the Pembina River, is among the oldest towns in North Dakota. The Kittson Trading Post, built by American Fur Company agent Norman Kittson, stands at the Walhalla State Historic Site and is often called the oldest building in the state; the nearby Gingras Trading Post, the 1840s home and store of Métis trader Antoine Blanc Gingras, holds an equal or older claim. Pembina Gorge State Recreation Area cuts the deepest canyon in North Dakota, carved by the Pembina River, with trails for hiking, biking, and ATVs. Frost Fire Mountain runs downhill skiing and snowboarding in winter and an outdoor theater season in summer.
Valley City
Valley City earns its nickname, the City of Bridges, from the eleven bridges that cross the Sheyenne River and its tributaries within the city limits. The Hi-Line Railroad Bridge, finished in 1908 and listed on the National Register, runs 3,860 feet across the valley and stands 162 feet above the water, one of the longest single-track railroad bridges in the country. The town sits at the eastern end of the 63-mile Sheyenne River Valley Scenic Byway, and Valley City State University, founded in 1890, keeps the local calendar busy with Vikings athletics and the annual Hi-Liner Days festival.
Jud
Jud holds fewer than 100 residents in LaMoure County and is named for Judson LaMoure, an early state legislator. Since the early 2000s, residents and visiting artists have painted murals across nearly every building in town, including the post office, the grain elevator, the fire hall, and several houses, turning the place into a walkable open-air gallery of prairie wildlife, rural scenes, and abstract patterns. The annual Jud Art Festival each summer brings in regional artists and live music. Most travelers come for the murals and the sight of an entire town organized around one creative project.
Bottineau
Bottineau sits a little over ten miles south of the Canadian border as the gateway to the Turtle Mountains. Its mascot, the 30-foot fiberglass Tommy the Turtle, went up in 1978 riding a 34-foot snowmobile and is billed as the world’s tallest turtle statue. Pride Dairy on Main Street is the last small-town creamery still operating in North Dakota, known for its Juneberry ice cream. Lake Metigoshe State Park, about fifteen miles north, offers boating, kayaking, fishing, and winter ice fishing. Bottineau Winter Park, the largest ski area in the state, runs ten runs across 200 vertical feet plus a tubing hill, and Dakota College at Bottineau, established in 1906, anchors the campus side of town.
Where The Frontier Still Shows
What these ten towns share is how much of the frontier they kept. The Missouri River and Lake Sakakawea shaped Garrison. The Sheyenne River Valley runs through Fort Ransom, Lisbon, and Valley City. The Pembina Gorge holds Walhalla on the Canadian border, the Badlands hold Medora, and the Turtle Mountains rise behind Bottineau. Each one still keeps its 19th-century buildings and the kind of small-town institutions that have closed almost everywhere else.
North Dakota
Behind the Badge – Why North Dakota?
Why North Dakota?
District Game Warden Noah Raitz
I admit that when I was first thinking about getting into conservation enforcement, I was not thinking about moving to North Dakota. Not because I didn’t like the state or had a reason not to move here. It was the opposite. I lacked the knowledge of what North Dakota had to offer. I was also in high school, so I had no idea what my plan was other than going to college.
I was just talking about this with another warden and the recruitment of candidates for our game warden positions. Sure, we hire wardens born and raised in North Dakota, but that’s not a requirement for the job. As proof of that, I grew up 30 minutes from the North Dakota border but didn’t start to think of it as an option until college.
I attended the University of North Dakota and one summer I worked for the North Dakota Game and Fish Department as a fisheries seasonal in Devils Lake. I enjoyed the work, but it also showed me the fishing opportunities the state offered that I had never explored before.
I also helped with sharp-tailed grouse surveys in college, which showed me the upland hunting opportunities that, again, I had never explored.
I grew up hunting waterfowl, but not in North Dakota until college, when I was introduced to field hunting. As you can guess, this showed me the prized waterfowl hunting so many people are passionate about in North Dakota.
I say all that because North Dakota’s habitat and natural resources are worth appreciating. It might not be flashy mountains or cabin-packed lakes, but that doesn’t mean we don’t have a lot to offer. We have the prairie, badlands, the Missouri River system, and many other unique landscapes throughout the state.
What do those have in common? They are made up of large areas of undeveloped landscapes for anyone to enjoy. Or in my case, to work in. That’s my office, the habitat for our fisheries and wildlife resources. I may not have a fast-food restaurant or big shopping mall down the road, but I do have various hunting and fishing opportunities within 5 minutes of my house.
I was asked recently what the favorite part of my job is, and it wasn’t very difficult to answer. It’s the interactions I get to have with the public. Getting to listen to a young angler tell me about the big fish they caught, or a new hunter showing off their first duck. It’s also the older generation telling me about hunting or fishing stories from before I was born.
To circle back to where I started, I did not expect to end up in North Dakota, but I am sure glad I did. Enforcing game and fish regulations is easy when the majority of our interactions don’t end in a citation, but instead a hunter or anglers’ story about that day’s success or defeat.
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