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‘Craziest thing you can do’: Why are so many adventure seekers warming up to ice climbing?

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‘Craziest thing you can do’: Why are so many adventure seekers warming up to ice climbing?

Thwack! Thwack! Thud!

Oh, thank god, my whole body exclaimed. After a few swings, the razor-sharp pick I clutched lodged firmly into a cascading frozen waterfall. Shards of ice exploded from the point of contact onto my face. A taste of blood. At least the hold seemed solid. I raised one foot and kicked the tippy-toe spike of a traction device attached to my boot into the opalescent surface. Then I raised the other.

Like a cat walking on extended claws, I made my way up Chouinard Falls in Lee Vining Canyon, an ice-climbing mecca in the state. Swing, crash, thud. Two steps. Swing, crash, thud. Two steps.

I wasn’t fast. I definitely wasn’t graceful. But I was ice climbing.

Ice climbing, as the name suggests, entails scaling frozen water. Even mountain goats can’t scramble up vertical ice, so specialized equipment is needed. Like rock climbing, the sport entails a rope system — known as belaying — but differs in substantive ways.

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Not only does ice-climbing gear resemble medieval torture devices, but the sport, for obvious reasons, must be done in the cold. Ice forms in the shade, adding to the chill factor. Particularly frigid climbs can bring on the “screaming barfies,” a cluster of symptoms that include severe hand pain and nausea. (My sun-soaked Angeleno blood curdles at the thought.) As climbers chop into the ice with their tools and crampons, frozen debris rains below.

Ice-climbing gear includes sturdy mountaineering boots, crampons, sharp picks called ice tools, ropes and more.

(Richard Bae / For The Times)

While it is still relatively obscure, several mountain guides said ice climbing received a nudge closer to the mainstream with the explosion of outdoor recreation in recent years. Roughly 2.5 million Americans climb ice, rock or pursue mountaineering, increasing nearly 18% from the mid-2000s, according to the Outdoor Industry Assn., a collective that includes business leaders, climate experts and policy makers.

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“Before I tried it, I always had this idea that it was the craziest thing you could do,” said Michael O’Connor of Sierra Mountain Guides. “I was, like, does the ice just fall down and hit you? And, yeah, the equipment seems cool, but it also seems horrifying.”

Yet O’Connor came away from his first tussle with ice, around 2010, wanting more.

Now, “by the time fall is hitting and I see the ice starting to form up and start to hear about people climbing on things, I’m like, ‘All right, I’m getting kind of psyched.’ And then once it’s here in Sierra, I’m like, ‘Let’s go.’ And it’s so fun.”

Sunny California, ice climbing’s unlikely birthplace

Conquerors of big mountains have long contended with ice. Once upon a time, alpinists laboriously hacked steps into it — literal stairways to heaven. That all changed in the mid-1960s to early 1970s. Renowned climber Yvon Chouinard — who set up a blacksmith shop in Ventura and later opened outdoor clothing brand Patagonia’s first store nearby — developed a curved pick that could claw into steep ice and stay put. Early climbs using the innovative tool were made in California’s Eastern Sierra Nevada.

“It’s no stretch to call that the ice-climbing revolution,” said Doug Robinson, who frequently climbed with Chouinard in those days and helped usher in the sport’s transformation.

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Climbers began to haul themselves up frozen waterfalls and dangling icicles, carving out a discipline separate from mountaineering. Sunny California, far from the epicenter of the sport today, can broadly be considered the cradle of its modern form.

Climbers scale the ice falls at Lee Vining Canyon, about 30 miles north of Mammoth (Richard Bae / For The Times)

(Richard Bae)

The allure of ice climbing

Ice fanatics and detractors alike speak reverentially of its ephemeral quality. (The qualifier is so intertwined with the practice that a recent Instagram post I came across read, “This is a generic ice climbing post… ephemeral ephemeral ephemeral ephemeral ephemeral…”)

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Unlike rock, ice is constantly changing. It can form, melt and reform multiple times a season — and exactly how it manifests is different each time. Depending on the climber, this presents an interesting puzzle or infuriating challenge.

Adrian Ballinger, owner of Lake Tahoe-based guiding company Alpenglow Expeditions, highlighted the creative movement the malleable surface permits.

Getting to the ice is not always easy, particularly in parched California. The trek to famed ice falls in Lee Vining Canyon can be grueling depending on the conditions. (Richard Bae / For The Times)

(Richard Bae)

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In rock climbing, “whether you’re outside or in the gym, there are a certain number of places where you can put your hands and feet and that’s it,” he said. “The beauty of ice is since you have these spikes on your feet and in your hands, you can make your handholds and footholds anywhere you choose.”

The same principle makes it accessible to a range of body types, he added. While one rock climb might be better or worse for a short person, ice allows people of all shapes to forge their own path.

Then there’s just the badassery of pursuing an activity that epitomizes radical.

Ready to climb? Here’s how to get started

Despite its hardcore aura, ice climbing is more accessible than it seems. Interest, drive and hardiness can carry a novice a long way, according to alpine veterans.

“It’s pretty intuitive,” said Aaron Jones, 37, a mountain guide based in Bishop whom I met while he was climbing with his cousin in the small town of June Lake. “If you can swing a hammer, you can swing an ice tool.”

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It does, however, require a significant amount of expensive gear and technical know-how to get off the ground. It’s not something you can learn entirely through YouTube videos. Seasoned climbers recommend sampling the sport by tapping a reputable mountain guiding service or pairing up with an experienced friend with enough patience to show you the ropes.

Necessary gear includes mountaineering boots, crampons (devices with long spikes fitted onto stiff-soled boots that dig into ice and snow to prevent falls), two ice tools (the picks), harness, helmet, ropes, ice screws (to protect the lead climber) and winter clothing. Because these items can amount to hundreds, even thousands, of dollars, it’s not advised to buy everything for your first go. It’s best to see if you enjoy the sport and then try out different equipment before your wallet takes a hit.

Ice is constantly changing, so no two ice-climbing experiences are ever the same.

(Richard Bae / For The Times)

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Climbers use razor-sharp ice tools to haul themselves up frozen waterfalls. An anchor, center, attaches the rope system to the slick surface. (Richard Bae / For The Times)

(Richard Bae)

Besides group and individual instruction, guiding services generally provide all the goodies you need to send ice. If you’re connected to a rock-climbing or outdoorsy community, you may be able to borrow some gear. Some can be rented.

There are no requirements to book a beginner’s outing with Alpenglow, “just that you’re up for a day of adventure outside,” said Ballinger, an internationally recognized skier and climber. Private outings hover around $700 per person, he said. Alpenglow’s group intro courses in mountaineering, avalanche rescue and more start around $275.

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The same goes for Sierra Mountain Guides, which offers a two-day introductory ice climbing course. It costs $515 per person on weekends and $480 midweek. O’Connor said a full day of private guiding averages $500 or more.

While you don’t need to be an accomplished athlete, a basic level of fitness is often needed just to sojourn to the ice — particularly in parched California. Once you get there, you need enough gas to climb and then make the same trek back in a state of enhanced fatigue.

“You have to have some resilience and robustness to just withstand those elements alone. And then if you add in climbing and carrying all of your equipment … it’s definitely not for everyone,” O’Connor said. “I’m not saying that everyone shouldn’t try it, but not everyone’s gonna like it.”

As the rising sun spat fiery fuchsia across the sky, three companions and I caravanned to an unmarked trailhead near the eastern entrance to Yosemite National Park. Outfitted in rigid mountaineering boots, I hiked for 1½ hours over snow-covered boulders to reach the ice falls of Lee Vining Canyon.

Melinda Guerrero, 34, an experienced rock climber in my party who was trying ice for the first time , quickly calculated when we’d need to leave to avoid scrambling back after sunset. “I definitely don’t want to do that in the dark,” she asserted. My chafed heels whimpered in agreement.

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Where to climb

It may not come as a complete surprise that California is not the ultimate destination for ice. That said, it’s home to several iconic ice playgrounds that are driving distance from the megalopolises of Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Lee Vining Canyon is arguably the most popular ice climbing destination in the Golden State. Renowned climbers Yvon Chouinard and Doug Robinson pioneered modern ice climbing techniques there more than a half-century ago.

(Richard Bae / For The Times)

Eastern Sierra Nevada

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  • Lee Vining Canyon. Located near the small Eastern Sierra hamlet of Lee Vining, this area is arguably the best-known and most popular destination in the state. It lures climbers with its dependable ice that tends to linger during the winter. It also offers climbing routes suitable for beginners. Getting there isn’t a walk in the park: the trek to get there, known as the approach, involves navigating talus fields and steep passages that may be blanketed in snow.
  • June Lake. This mountain community near Mammoth offers exponentially more accessible roadside ice. As the name suggests, ice seekers need only to pull over along the June Lake Loop and walk a short distance to a crag with relatively low angle ice ideal for learning on. Horsetail Falls is another popular spot that can be hiked to.

Northern Sierra Nevada

Ballinger’s guiding company typically brings clients to two zones in the Tahoe area:

Because of Tahoe’s heavy snowfall, Ballinger said the climbs become shorter as powder builds up and covers the routes.

Beyond California

Dedicated climbers converge in areas better known for ice, such as Cody, Wyo.; Ouray, Colo.; Hyalite Canyon near Bozeman, Mont.; Valdez, Alaska; and Canmore in the Canadian Rockies.

When to climb

Ice-climbing season in sunny California tends to be short and, yes, ephemeral. It typically runs from December through March in the Eastern Sierra, but is highly dependent on weather conditions.

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Tahoe’s season this year started in mid-November and Ballinger anticipates it will last through January, with a possibility of extending through February or March.

It’s critical to gauge the condition of the ice before getting on it. Sierra Mountain Guides posts handy ice reports.

When I visited the Eastern Sierra in mid-December, the temperatures were unusually warm. It made for more comfortable climbing (i.e., neither my fingers or toes screamed in pain), but less favorable ice conditions.

Clothing considerations

What distinguishes ice climbing from many other other winter sports is that it involves relatively long periods of inactivity. While one person climbs, another waits below (or above) and belays them. This trade-off of movement and pause makes a clothing layering system particularly important.

The person who isn’t climbing generally throws on a heavy jacket and warm gloves. The outer jacket is shed while climbing and often gloves will be swapped for ones that allow for more dexterity. If the walk to and from the ice wall is long or strenuous, it’s important that you can strip off layers when you inevitably heat up.

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Bringing “four pairs of gloves is not uncommon,” O’Connor said.

A note on danger

Shards of ice whizzed past me on a deviously slick platform underneath frozen waterfalls that resembled lofty ice sculptures. One thumped my hand, as if to say, “Outta my way!”

“They didn’t tell you about this part?” asked Jake Ballard, observing my consternation amid the onslaught. Ballard, 42, an experienced rock climber, recently started to tackle ice.

Actually, I had been told that one of the hazards of ice climbing is falling frozen debris. But I mistakenly assumed that ice would only plummet occasionally. (Later, I saw Ballard belaying a friend while he crouched behind a ridge to avoid the ice’s flight path.)

Falling frozen debris poses a major, even fatal, hazard to ice climbers.

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(Richard Bae / For The Times)

No activity conducted in the mountains is 100% safe, ice climbing included. Risks can be managed, minimized, but not entirely avoided.

Mountain experts generally agree that ice climbing is more dangerous than outdoor rock climbing. Avalanches, sharp equipment, cold weather and unstable ice all threaten bodily harm.

“If you’re in the wrong place at the wrong time ice can fall and, if it hits you, there’s big enough pieces that it will kill you,” O’Connor said, adding that there are practices employed to position yourself to lower the likelihood of being hit.

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There’s also a major difference between the risks posed by what’s known as leading and top roping a climb, both terms used in rock climbing. A person who leads a climb sets up the rope system that makes climbing safer for those who follow. They’re less protected on the first ascent and can suffer a serious fall. The person who climbs after the system is set up will be on top rope, which means that their partner should be able to catch them if they fall with minimal consequence.

Jones, who owns Sierra Climbing School, said the changing nature of the medium makes screws inserted into the ice to limit the distance the lead climber can fall “inherently suspect.”

“When you’re top roping … it’s just as safe as rock climbing as long as you’re not like stabbing yourself with a pick,” he said.

Climbing ice in a warming world

Climate change has made the evanescent sport more precarious. Increased heat doesn’t just shrink the available ice, but threatens to make what does freeze unreliable.

Ballinger said climate change has shortened the season as lingering higher temperatures often delay the start before returning early in the spring to lop it off.

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A spike in temperatures during the season can weaken the bonds of the ice and make it unsafe to climb. Once upon a time, Ballinger said they could reliably “run ice” consistently on weekends once the season started. Now fluctuations on the thermometer make it touch and go.

“In California, it’s always been ephemeral, but it’s even more so now,” he said.

Though California is home to several ice playgrounds — including Lee Vining Canyon and June Lake — ice climbing season tends to be short. So go while you can.

(Richard Bae / For The Times)

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On the brink of death, a woman is saved by a stranger and his family

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On the brink of death, a woman is saved by a stranger and his family

In 1982, Jean Muenchrath was injured in a mountaineering accident and on the brink of death when a stranger and his family went out of their way to save her life.

Jean Muenchrath


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Jean Muenchrath

In early May 1982, Jean Muenchrath and her boyfriend set out on a mountaineering trip in the Sierra Nevada, a mountain range in California. They had done many backcountry trips in the area before, so the terrain was somewhat familiar to both of them. But after they reached one of the summits, a violent storm swept in. It began to snow heavily, and soon the pair was engulfed in a blizzard, with thunder and lightning reverberating around them.

“Getting struck and killed by lightning was a real possibility since we were the highest thing around for miles and lightning was striking all around us,” Muenchrath said.

To reach safer ground, they decided to abandon their plan of taking a trail back. Instead, using their ice axes, they climbed down the face of the mountain through steep and icy snow chutes.

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They were both skilled at this type of descent, but at one particularly difficult part of the route, Muenchrath slipped and tumbled over 100 feet down the rocky mountain face. She barely survived the fall and suffered life-threatening injuries.

This was before cellular or satellite phones, so calling for help wasn’t an option. The couple was forced to hike through deep snow back to the trailhead. Once they arrived, Muenchrath collapsed in the parking lot. It had been five days since she’d fallen.

 ”My clothes were bloody. I had multiple fractures in my spine and pelvis, a head injury and gangrene from a deep wound,” Muenchrath said.

Not long after they reached the trailhead parking lot, a car pulled in. A man was driving, with his wife in the passenger seat and their baby in the back. As soon as the man saw Muenchrath’s condition, he ran over to help.

 ”He gently stroked my head, and he held my face [and] reassured me by saying something like, ‘You’re going to be OK now. I’ll be right back to get you,’” Muenchrath remembered.

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For the first time in days, her panic began to lift.

“My unsung hero gave me hope that I’d reach a hospital and I’d survive. He took away my fears.”

Within a few minutes, the man had unpacked his car. His wife agreed to stay back in the parking lot with their baby in order to make room for Muenchrath, her boyfriend and their backpacks.

The man drove them to a nearby town so that the couple could get medical treatment.

“I remember looking into the eyes of my unsung hero as he carried me into the emergency room in Lone Pine, California. I was so weak, I couldn’t find the words to express the gratitude I felt in my heart.”

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The gratitude she felt that day only grew. Now, nearly 45 years later, she still thinks about the man and his family.

 ”He gave me the gift of allowing me to live my life and my dreams,” Muenchrath said.

At some point along the way, the man gave Muenchrath his contact information. But in the chaos of the day, she lost it and has never been able to find him.

 ”If I knew where my unsung hero was today, I would fly across the country to meet him again. I’d hug him, buy him a meal and tell him how much he continues to mean to me by saving my life. Wherever you are, I say thank you from the depths of my being.”

My Unsung Hero is also a podcast — new episodes are released every Tuesday. To share the story of your unsung hero with the Hidden Brain team, record a voice memo on your phone and send it to myunsunghero@hiddenbrain.org.

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DTLA has a new theater — inside a fake electrical box

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DTLA has a new theater — inside a fake electrical box

By day, you’d be forgiven for walking past the newest theater in downtown L.A.

It isn’t hidden in an alley or obscured via a nameless door. No, this performance space is essentially a theater in disguise, as it’s designed to look like an electrical box — a fabrication so real that when artist S.C. Mero was installing it in the Arts District, police stopped her, concerned she was ripping out its copper wire. (There is no copper wire inside this wooden nook.)

Open the door to the theater, and discover a place of urban enchantment, where a red velvet door and crimson wallpaper beckon guests to come closer and sit inside. That is, if they can fit.

With a mirror on its side and a clock in its back, Mero’s creation, about 6 feet tall and 3 feet deep yet smaller on its interior, looks something akin to an intimate, private boudoir — the sort of dressing room that wouldn’t be out of place in one of Broadway’s historic downtown theaters. That’s by design, says Mero, who cites the ornately romanticized vibe and color palette of the Los Angeles Theatre as prime inspiration. Mero, a longtime street artist whose guerrilla art regularly dots the downtown landscape, likes to inject whimsy into her work: a drainage pipe that gives birth, a ball pit for rats or the transformation of a dilapidated building into a “castle.” But there’s just as often some hidden social commentary.

With her Electrical Box Theatre, situated across from the historic American Hotel and sausage restaurant and bar Wurstküche, Mero set out to create an impromptu performance space for the sort of experimental artists who no longer have an outlet in downtown’s galleries or more refined stages. The American Hotel, for instance, subject of 2018 documentary “Tales of the American” and once home to the anything-goes punk rock ethos of Al’s Bar, still stands, but it isn’t lost on Mero that most of the neighborhood’s artist platforms today are softer around the edges.

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Ethan Marks inside S.C. Mero’s theater inside a fake electrical box. The guerrilla art piece is near the American Hotel.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

“A lot of galleries are for what can sell,” Mero says. “Usually that’s paintings and wall art.”

She dreamed, however, of an anti-establishment place that could feel inviting and erase boundaries between audience and perfomer. “People may be intimidated to get up on a stage or at a coffee shop, but here it’s right on street level.”

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It’s already working as intended, says Mero. I visited the box early last week when Mero invited a pair of experimental musicians to perform. Shortly after trumpeter Ethan Marks took to the sidewalk, one of the American Hotel’s current residents leaned out his window and began vocally and jovially mimicking the fragmented and angular notes coming from the instrument. In this moment, “the box,” as Mero casually refers to it, became a true communal stage, a participatory call-and-response pulpit for the neighborhood.

Clown, Lars Adams, 38, peers out of S.C. Mero's theater inside a fake electrical box.

Clown Lars Adams, 38, peers out of S.C. Mero’s theater inside a fake electrical box. Mero modeled the space off of Broadway’s historic theaters.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

A few days prior, a rideshare driver noticed a crowd and pulled over to read his poetry. He told Mero it was his first time. The unscripted occurrence, she says, was “one of the best moments I’ve ever experienced in making art.”

“That’s literally what this space is,” Mero says. “It’s for people to try something new or to experiment.”

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Marks jumped at the chance to perform for free inside the theater, his brassy freewheeling equally complementing and contrasting the sounds of the intersection. “I was delighted,” he says, when Mero told him about the stage. “There’s so much unexpectedness to it that as an improviser, it really keeps you in the moment.”

A downtown resident for more than a decade, Mero has become something of an advocate for the neighborhood. The area arguably hasn’t returned to its pre-pandemic heights, as many office floors sit empty and a string of high-profile restaurant closures struck the community. Mero’s own gallery at the corner of Spring and Seventh streets shuttered in 2024. Downtown also saw its perception take a hit last year when ICE descended on the city center and national media incorrectly portrayed the hood as a hub of chaos.

Artist, S.C. Mero poses for a portrait in her newest art project, "Electrical Box Theatre"

Artist S.C. Mero looks into her latest project, a fake electrical box in the Arts District. Mero has long been associated with street art in the neighborhood.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

“A lot has changed in the 13 years when I first got down here,” Mero says. “Everybody felt like it was magic, like we were going to be part of this renaissance and L.A. was going to have this epicenter again. Then it descended. A lot of my friends left. But I still see the same beauty in it. The architecture. The history. Downtown is the most populous neighborhood in all of L.A. because it belongs to everybody. It’s everybody’s downtown, whether they love it or not. And I feel we are part of history.”

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Art today in downtown ranges from high-end galleries such as Hauser & Wirth to the graffiti-covered towers of Oceanwide Plaza. Gritty spaces, such as Superchief Gallery, have been vocal about struggles to stay afloat. Mero’s art, meanwhile, remains a source of optimism throughout downtown’s streets.

At Pershing Square, for instance, sits her “Spike Cafe,” a mini tropical hideaway atop a parking garage sign where umbrellas and finger food props have become a prettier nesting spot for pigeons. Seen potentially as a vision for beautification, a contrast, for instance, from the nature intrusive barbs that aim to deter wildlife, “Spike Cafe” has become a statement of harmony.

Elsewhere, on the corner of Broadway and Fourth streets, Mero has commandeered a once historic building that’s been burned and left to rot. Mero, in collaboration with fellow street artist Wild Life, has turned the blighted space into a fantastical haven with a knight, a dragon and more — a decaying castle from a bygone era.

“A lot of times people are like, ‘I can’t believe you get away with that!’ But most people haven’t tried to do it, you know?” Mero says. “It can be moved easily. It’s not impeding on anyone. I don’t feel I do anything bad. Not having a permit is just a technicality. I believe what I’m doing is right.”

Musician Jeonghyeon Joo, 31, plays the haegeum outside of S.C. Mero's latest art project, a theater in a faux electrical box.

Musician Jeonghyeon Joo, 31, plays the haegeum outside of S.C. Mero’s latest art project, a theater in a faux electrical box.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

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After initially posting her electrical box on her social media, Mero says she almost instantly received more than 20 requests to perform at the venue. Two combination locks keep it closed, and Mero will give out the code to those she trusts. “Some people want to come and play their accordion. Another is a tour guide,” Mero says.

Ultimately, it’s an idea, she says, that she’s had for about a decade. “Everything has to come together, right? You have to have enough funds to buy the supplies, and then the skills to to have it come together.”

And while it isn’t designed to be forever, it is bolted to the sidewalk. As for why now was the right time to unleash it, Mero is direct: “I needed the space,” she says.

There are concerns. Perhaps, Mero speculates, someone will change the lock combination, knocking her out of her own creation. And the more attention brought to the box via media interviews means more scrutiny may be placed on it, risking its confiscation by city authorities.

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As a street artist, however, Mero has had to embrace impermanence, although she acknowledges it can be a bummer when a piece disappears in a day or two. And unlike a gallerist, she feels an obligation to tweak her work once it’s out in the world. Though her “Spike Cafe” is about a year old, she says she has to “continue to babysit it,” as pigeons aren’t exactly known for their tidiness.

But Mero hopes the box has a life of its own, and considers it a conversation between her, local artists and downtown itself. “I still think we’re part of something special,” Mero says of living and working downtown.

And, at least for now, it’s the neighborhood with arguably the city’s most unique performance venue.

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A glimpse of Iran, through the eyes of its artists and journalists

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A glimpse of Iran, through the eyes of its artists and journalists

Understanding one of the world’s oldest civilizations can’t be achieved through a single film or book. But recent works of literature, journalism, music and film by Iranians are a powerful starting point. Clockwise from top left: The Seed of the Sacred Fig, For The Sun After Long Nights, Cutting Through Rocks, It Was Just an Accident, Martyr!, and Kayhan Kalhor.

NEON; Pantheon; Gandom Films Production; NEON; Vintage; Julia Gunther for NPR


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NEON; Pantheon; Gandom Films Production; NEON; Vintage; Julia Gunther for NPR

Few Americans have had the opportunity to visit or explore Iran, an ethnically diverse nation of over 90 million people which has been effectively shut off from the United States since the Iranian revolution of 1979. Now, with a U.S. and Israeli-led war on Iran underway, the ideas, feelings and opinions of Iranians may feel less accessible. However, some recent books, films and music made by artists and journalists in Iran and from the Iranian diaspora can help illuminate this ancient culture and its contemporary politics.

These suggestions are just a starting point, of course — with an emphasis on recent works made by Iranians themselves, rather than by outsiders looking in.

Books

For the Sun After Long Nights: The Story of Iran’s Women-Led Uprising, by Fatemeh Jamalpour and Nilo Tabrizy

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For the Sun After Long Nights: The Story of Iran's Women-Led Uprising

There are quite a few excellent titles that deconstruct the history of Iran from ancient times through the rule of the Pahlavi Dynasty to the Iranian Revolution. But there are far fewer books that help us understand the Iran of 2026 and the people who live there now. One standout is the National Book Award-nominated For the Sun After Long Nights: The Story of Iran’s Women-Led Uprising by journalists Fatemeh Jamalpour and Nilo Tabrizy, which chronicles — almost in real time — the Woman, Life, Freedom movement that began in 2022, during which Jamalpour was working secretly as a journalist in Tehran. In 2024-25, Jamalpour (who is now living in exile in the U.S.) and I spent a year together at the University of Michigan’s Knight-Wallace fellowship for journalists; her insights into contemporary Iran are among the best.

Gold, by Rumi, translated by Haleh Liza Gafori

Gold

If Americans are familiar with Persian poetry at all, it may well be through popular “translations” of the 13th-century Sufi poet Jalaluddin Rumi done by the late American poet Coleman Barks, who neither read nor spoke the Persian language and detached the works of Molana (“our master”), as Iranians call him, of references to Islam. (Instead, Barks “interpreted” preexisting English translations.)

In 2022, Iranian-American poet, performance artist and singer Haleh Liza Gafori offered the first volume of a corrective, in the form of fresh Rumi translations that are at once accessible, deeply contemplative and immediate. A second volume, Water, followed last year.

Martyr!: A Novel, by Kaveh Akbar

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Martyr!: A Novel

This 2024 debut novel by Kaveh Akbar, the poetry editor at The Nation, is an unflinching tour-de-force bursting with wit and insight into the complications of diaspora, the nature of identity in a post-War on Terror world and the inter-generational impact of the 1979 Revolution on Iranians. The protagonist, the Iran-born but American-raised Cyrus Shams, has struggled with addiction, depression and insomnia his whole life, and is trying his best to make sense of a world at the “intersection of Iranian-ness and Midwestern-ness.” As with so many other of the titles here, fiction and fact are woven together: the story centers around the true story of the U.S. downing an Iranian passenger plane in 1988 during the Iran-Iraq war.

The Stationery Shop: A Novel, by Marjan Kamali

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Marjan Kamali’s 2019 love story is the wistful tale of a young woman named Roya and an idealistic activist named Bahman, who meet cute in a Tehran store in the 1950s, but whose planned marriage falls apart due to turmoil both familial and political, as Iran’s democratically elected government falls in a U.S.-British lead coup that ends with the installation of the Shah. Roya flees to the U.S. for a fresh start, but the two reunite in 2013, wondering: what if life had spun out in a different direction?

Movies

Coup 53

This 2019 documentary directed by Iranian film maker Taghi Amirani and co-written by Walter Murch recounts Operation Ajax, in which the CIA and Britain’s MI6 engineered the removal of Mohammad Mossadegh, Iran’s democratically elected prime minister, and installed a friendly ruler, Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, in his place. (The Shah was ousted in the 1979 revolution.) As Fresh Air critic John Powers noted in his review, “What emerges first is the backstory of the coup, which like so much in the modern Middle East is predicated on oil. Shortly after the black gold was discovered in early 20th century Iran, a British oil company now known as BP locked up a sweetheart deal for its exploitation. Iran not only got a mere 16% of the oil money before British taxes, but the books were kept by the British — and the Iranians weren’t allowed to see them.”

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YouTube

Cutting Through Rocks

Sara Khaki and Mohammadreza Eyni’s film Cutting Through Rocks is up for an Oscar this season after premiering at the 2025 Sundance Film Festival. This inspiring documentary follows Sara Shahverdi — a divorced, childless motorcyclist — as she campaigns to become the first woman elected to the city council of her remote village, and who dreams of teaching girls to ride and to end child marriage.

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It Was Just an Accident

The latest film from acclaimed director Jafar Panahi — who has officially been banned from making films in Iran — is 2025’s It Was Just an Accident. Panahi, who has been jailed multiple times for his work and was recently sentenced again in absentia, has said in interviews that his inspiration for this brutal – and shockingly funny – thriller was people he met while in prison: an auto mechanic named Vahid finds himself face-to-face with the man who he is fairly certain was his torturer in jail, and eventually assembles other victims to try to confirm his suspicions. Fresh Air critic Justin Chang called It Was Just an Accident “a blast of pure anti-authoritarian rage.”

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The Seed of the Sacred Fig

This 2024 thriller — shot in secret by director Mohammad Rasoulof — centers on a family whose father, Iman, is appointed as an investigating judge in Tehran. But it soon becomes clear that his job has nothing to do with actually investigating. Iman, his wife, and two daughters come to suspect each other in our age of mass surveillance, as the city streets below erupt into the real-life Woman, Life, Freedom protests.

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Music

Kayhan Kalhor

One of the primary ambassadors of Persian classical music has been the composer and kamancheh (an Iranian bowed-instrument) virtuoso Kayhan Kalhor. Although music, like poetry, has been central to Iranian culture for centuries, all kinds of music were initially banned after the 1979 revolution. Since then, however, Iranian classical musicians have ridden many looping cycles of official condemnation, grudging tolerance, censorship and attempts at co-option by the regime.

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Despite those difficulties, Kalhor has built a thriving career both inside Iran and abroad, including winning a Grammy Award as part of the Silkroad Ensemble and earning three nominations as a solo artist. Back in 2012, I invited him to our Tiny Desk to perform solo. “Didn’t know I could have goosebumps for 12 minutes straight,” a YouTube commenter recently wrote; I couldn’t put it any better.

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Saeid Shanbehzadeh

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Among Iran’s 92 million people, about 40% of come from various ethnic minorities, including Azeris, Kurds and Armenians among many others. One of the most fascinating communities is the Afro-Iranians in the Iranian south, many of whose ancestors were brought to Iran as enslaved people from east Africa. Multi-instrumentalist and dancer Saeid Shanbehzadeh, who traces his ancestry to Zanzibar, celebrates that heritage with his band, and specializes in the Iranian bagpipe and percussion.

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The underground metal scene

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Despite ongoing restrictions on music — including the continued ban on female singers performing in mixed-gender public settings — Iran is home to a thriving underground scene for metal and punk. Though it’s fictional, Farbod Ardebelli’s 2020 short drama Forbidden to See Us Scream in Tehran — which was secretly filmed in Tehran, with the director giving instructions remotely from the U.S. via WhatsApp — gives a flavor of that real-life scene and the dangers those artists face.

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