The desert is a dark, foreboding place at night, one that requires four wheel drive to trace the silver, starlit of veins of Capitol Reef National Park beneath the galaxy to its heart.
An hour from any paved pipelines to civilization, the Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon await adventurous passersby. The freestanding shadows of these geologic monoliths blot out the Milky Way as they have since the Jurassic. Here—beneath the bewildering conjunction of starlight and father time—you’ll find one of Joshua Rowley’s favorite Capitol Reef haunts, Cathedral Valley.
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This place is one of the most famous sections of the sprawling, 377-square-mile national park. The temples grace local merchandise, murals and even the official park map of the place. But unlike cousins at Arches, Canyonlands, Zion and Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef’s greatest treasures lie far off of the beaten path. That, Rowley reckons, is part of the appeal. Capitol Reef typically receives a fracture of the number of visitors that its neighbors attract. And for Rowley, that’s just fine.
In March of this year, Rowley and partner Nicholas Derrick flung open the doors of a waypoint for travelers making their way through one of America’s most darkest dust lands. The Skyview Hotel sits about 30 miles from the Temple of the Sun and Moon in nearby Torrey, Utah. Perched on the side of State Route 24 beneath the rippling, red sinews of a mesa dubbed the Velvet Ridge, The Skyview is the culmination of a dream the two co-owners conjured on their first date a little more than a decade ago.
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“Nick and I wanted to have a small hotel that was geared towards outdoor adventurers,” says Rowley. “We have this beef with hotel chains that will put the exact same layout of a building in a suburb as they will a really beautiful place like this. So, we designed everything here around the town of Torrey and Capitol Reef—down to the last detail.”
Rowley and Derrick each hail from Utah. They both have a passion for architecture and design; and the attention to detail shows inside their oasis. The hotel is designed for adventurers ranging from desert trekkers bumbling in with dusty, well-worn boots in the middle of the night to road trippers making a cleaner, faster circuit of Utah’s “Big 5.”
In the parking area, glossy Range Rovers armored in unspoiled overlanding gear mingle with trail battered pickup trucks and luxury rental cars looking a little dinged up and maligned. “Adventure means something different to each guest,” Rowley explains. “For some people, adventure is backpacking for a week. For others, it might literally be just taking a scenic drive.”
On the exterior, the Skyview itself looks plucked from a Wes Anderson film. a floating slot canyon of faded, vermillion ropes guards the passage to a single row of 14 rooms. Some feature patios with burbling spas beneath the cliffs. All feature artwork inspired by geologic wonders located throughout the park.
The artwork, Rowley says, is meant to play on the inspirational empty unique to this corner of the country. When guests come in, he says mental light bulbs often start to flicker. “I had someone the other day from New Hampshire that was stunned to be able to see 15 miles away. They said they’d never experienced that before.
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“So much of Utah is public land that it’s just empty. But it’s empty in a wonderful way. It’s National Forest. It’s Bureau of Land Management. It’s national monuments. It’s largely undeveloped and we see a lot of people experiencing that for the first time.”
Up top, a roof deck with dark sky-certified lighting allows visitors to lounge in comfort beneath the stars.
As of 2021, the town of Torrey held just 272 citizens. Rowley thinks the numbers may be slightly higher today, noting a smattering of luxuries available to travelers: a coffee roaster, a cider distillery, emerging upscale eateries that float in and out just down the road. In 2018, the town became Utah’s first International Dark Sky Community.
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For Rowley, it’s the perfect mix of rural solitude and creature comfort. “I’m someone that finds New York to be cozy,” Rowley adds, noting the town has felt like a welcoming place for LGBTQ community. “I love it here.”
Though the bulk of this upscale, boutique hotel rests indoors, the undeniable stars of the show loom like lunar outposts outside. Here, Rowley and Derrick have installed six glamping domes that pull more than a few onlookers off of two-lane highway they sit alongside. People often pull over for a “looky-loo” at the Martianesque geodesic desert domes with sweeping views of the night sky.
Those choosing to “rough it” for the night find themselves with an unfettered dreamscape of the Milky Way on moonless nights, though Rowley admits the domes aren’t truly camps—they each come with a keycard and a fully furnished bathroom attached to the hotel.
Rowley says guests are often curious about staying in both a traditional room and a glamping dome; but just a few months after doors opened he’s still waiting on more data to determine a demographic swing either way. What he does see, for certain, is a clientele that is actively seeking their own adventure.
To help travelers maximize their time in Capitol Reef, the hotel partners with Get in the Wild Canyoneering Adventures for outdoor activities like family adventure trips and even wilderness yoga. They also tap local shutter fly Hunter Page Photography to connect guests with a master of capturing the national park in its best light.
In the 1960s, visitor figures at Capitol Reef National Park tallied about 160,000 people per year. Today, as those numbers climb to more than 1.2 million, small hotels like the Skyview still have the power to offer intimate experiences with the outdoors that Rowley says don’t have to be left to days of old. “It’s a great park to see in two hours if you just want to drive through,” he adds. “You can go to Gifford’s and grab a pie. You can go to the orchards and take a stroll and have a lovely experience. But I think Capitol Reef really caters to those who off-the-beaten-path travelers who want to stay a while. Take your truck. Go out to Cathedral Valley. Find the desolate places that make you feel alive.”
Utah lawmakers will consider changes to how recently-retired public employees are paid if they later choose to work or volunteer as emergency responders during the upcoming legislative session.
The change is largely administrative, Kory Cox, director of legislative and government affairs for the Utah Retirement System, told lawmakers on Tuesday.The proposed bill would change the compensation limit for first responders like volunteer firefighters, search and rescue personnel and reserve law enforcement, from $500 per month to roughly $20,000 per year.
Some public employees already serve as first responders in addition to their day jobs, Cox and other advocates told the Retirement and Independent Entities Interim Committee at a hearing Tuesday. The current statute has forced those employees to put their service on hold after they retire in order to keep their retirement benefits.
Volunteer firefighters do get paid, despite what their title suggests. Volunteer organizations pay their emergency responders every six months, said Cedar City Fire Chief Mike Phillips, so their paychecks almost always amount to more than $500. Switching from a monthly compensation limit to an annual compensation limit means new retirees can keep up their service, or take up new service, without jeopardizing their retirement benefits.
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“As volunteer agencies, a lot of our employees are government employees,” said Cedar City Fire Chief Mike Phillips. “They work for county and state governments because they allow them to leave their employment to come help us fight fires.”
Clint Smith, Draper City fire chief and president of the Utah State Fire Chiefs Association, told lawmakers Tuesday that volunteerism, “especially in rural volunteer fire agencies,” but also across Utah and the United States, is “decreasing dramatically.”
The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) reported 676,900 volunteer firefighters in the United States, down from 897,750 when the agency started keeping track in 1984. A U.S. Fire Administrations guide book about retention and recruitment for volunteer firefighters published last year wrote that the decline “took place while the United States population grew from nearly 236 million to over 331 million in the same time frame, indicating that volunteerism in the fire and emergency services has not kept pace with population growth.”
The consequences, the guide says, are “dire.”
Roughly 64% of Utah’s fire agencies are volunteer-only, according to the U.S. Fire Administration.
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“Anything we can do to help make sure that [volunteers] are not penalized when they separate from their full regular [employment] with the state, to be able to still act in that volunteer capacity is vital to the security and safety of our communities,” Smith said Tuesday.
It was an easy sell for lawmakers. The committee voted unanimously to adopt the bill as a committee bill in the 2025 legislative session with a favorable recommendation.
Shannon Sollitt is a Report for America corps member covering business accountability and sustainabilityfor The Salt Lake Tribune. Your donation to match our RFA grant helps keep her writing stories like this one; please consider making a tax-deductible gift of any amount today by clicking here.
The Utah State Aggies just grabbed a statement win.
Through four games under new head coach Jerrod Calhoun, the Utah State Aggies had looked impressive, averaging exactly 104 points per game and a margin of victory of exactly 40 points in four wins.
The thing was, the Aggies didn’t play any team that is expected to be near their level, as Alcorn State, Westminster and Montana all play in lesser conferences than the Mountain West and Charlotte was picked to finish eighth in the 13-team AAC, which is considered about on par with the MW.
Finally on Friday night, Utah State faced a team in the Iowa Hawkeyes of the Big Ten that not only was more its equal, but was thought to be better, and accordingly was considered a comfortable favorite.
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With the contest being played on a neutral floor in Kansas City, Utah State kept things close for the first 28 minutes or so and then used a surge to take the lead partway through the second half and held on down the stretch to claim the 77-69 victory and move to 5-0 on the season.
With the loss, an Iowa team that is considered to be a potential NCAA Tournament squad moved to 5-1 on the campaign.
The Aggies got off to a nice start and led for most of the first 10 minutes of the game. Things were pretty even throughout most of the rest of the first half, though Iowa put together a little run and led by four at halftime.
At the 12:52 mark of the second half the Hawkeyes went up by four on a dunk from leading scorer Payton Sandfort, but the Aggies responded with a 9-0 run over the next 3:42 to go up by five, 58-53.
Things stayed close for the next few minutes but Iowa never got closer than a point and Utah State created some distance, largely behind Mason Falslev and Karson Templin.
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A dunk from Central Arkansas transfer Tucker Anderson with 54 seconds to play quelled any remaining chance the Hawkeyes had at a comeback after they had cut the deficit from seven to four on a 3 by Brock Harding.
Falslev led all scorers with 25 points and finished with a double-double, as he added 12 rebounds to go along with three assists, two steals and a block.
Ian Martinez added 13 points and Anderson finished with 10. That pair stuffed the stat sheet, combining for 11 rebounds, eight steals, seven assists, and two blocks.
Team-wise, things were rather even statistically except for rebounds and fast break points. The Aggies outrebounded the Hawkeyes 47-31 and scored 21 fast break points compared to just four for Iowa.
Next up for Utah State is a Thanksgiving Day game against St. Bonaventure at Disney World.
TAYLORSVILLE — Four new cases of avian flu outbreaks have been reported in Utah, affecting three Piute County turkey facilities, the Utah Department of Agriculture and Food said in a press release.
“Between November 10 to 19, 2024, three turkey farms in Piute County totaling 107,800 turkeys and one backyard flock of 253 birds in Salt Lake County were confirmed positive for HPAI,” the department said. “Though the overall risk to public health remains low, HPAI is a serious disease, requiring rapid response, including depopulation of affected flocks as it is highly contagious and fatal to poultry.”
There are currently five poultry farms in Utah under quarantine, according to the department.
“In the backyard flock because it’s so deadly, all but 33 birds died. All the turkeys are being depopulated because it’s highly contagious,” said Caroline Hargraves with the Utah Department of Agriculture and Food.
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Officials said affected birds were depopulated within 24 hours of the reported outbreaks, and that impacts on food supply are expected to be limited.
“State and federal personnel are on-site to ensure all requirements for disinfection and proper disposal are followed,” the department said.
Officials said that poultry owners should “practice strong biosecurity and monitor flocks for signs of illness.”
The Utah Department of Agriculture and Food asked poultry owners to report sick birds to the State Veterinarian’s Office at statevet@utah.gov. They also said that people interacting with sick birds should take special precautions including using personal protective equipment.