Oregon
Explore Oregon Podcast: Best outdoor adventures of 2024 part I
In this episode of the Explore Oregon Podcast, host Zach Urness highlights the best adventures the Statesman Journal outdoors staff wrote about in 2024.
In this episode, Urness talks about the troubled but beloved Umpqua Hot Springs during its “quiet season” and exploring snow shelters in the winter backcountry near Gold Lake Sno Park. Other adventures highlighted include summer skiing on Mount Hood — even during an extreme heat wave — along with mountain biking a historic road and how to visit one of Oregon’s most beautiful but semi-secret waterfalls.
Look for part II of 2024’s best stories in a new episode around the New Year.
Never miss an episode: Listen to each episode at statesmanjournal.com/outdoors/explore Find us on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, SoundCloud or Amazon Music and subscribe on your platform of choice to get future episodes.
Find every episode: Find all 158 episodes of the Explore Oregon Podcast online
Zach Urness has been an outdoors reporter in Oregon for 16 years and is host of the Explore Oregon Podcast. He can be reached at zurness@StatesmanJournal.com or (503) 399-6801. Find him on X at @ZachsORoutdoors.
Oregon
Research, inclusivity efforts at stake as Oregon college leaders respond to Trump administration orders
Higher education leaders across Oregon are wrapping their heads around the potential impact of a grant funding pause on their institutions and on students.
“Portland Community College does receive a substantial amount of support through the federal government,” said a PCC spokesperson on Tuesday. “We are currently trying to determine the full gravity of the recent actions and executive orders issued by the administration and potential impacts on our students, programs and college.”
PCC is Oregon’s largest higher education institution.
While the freeze on federal funding is now in doubt, following a judge’s temporary order out of Washington, D.C., higher education leaders are looking closely at President Trump’s latest actions to see how their institutions might be affected. The freeze on funding was intended to stop the flow of federal dollars while agencies could review how those streams align with executive orders Trump signed governing diversity, equity and inclusion programs and the administration’s other policy targets.
“We will continue actively assessing any impact that federal actions have on Oregonians served by the postsecondary education and training system,” said a spokesperson with Oregon’s Higher Education Coordinating Commission. “The HECC continues in our mission and commitment to advance equitable access to and success in postsecondary education and training for all Oregonians.”
Federal funding for research projects is a particular worry for the state’s larger public universities, which receive millions of dollars in federal research funding each year.
“We’re looking closely at each executive order and agency request to understand the potential impacts on the groundbreaking research conducted by our faculty,” said a University of Oregon spokesperson in a statement.
In response to the memo, Portland State University is advising students and faculty involved in federal research to be more mindful with their grant spending.
“For students and employees working on federally funded research grants, we’re asking leaders to prioritize people and temporarily suspend their non-personnel spending and other grant related costs,” said PSU President Ann Cudd in a letter to the campus community.
Oregon State University is among the biggest recipients of federal research funding in the state. The university was awarded $370 million in federal grants last school year. A letter sent to OSU’s community from its Office of Research and Innovation on Tuesday said the university is reviewing the White House executive actions and providing guidance to campus stakeholders.
“Given Oregon State’s reputation and preeminent status as an institution dedicated to advancing research of utmost importance to the state, the nation and the world, even a temporary pause on the issuance of new awards and on the disbursement of federal funds for open awards has broad impacts across the university,” read the statement.
The U.S. Department of Education released guidance on Tuesday, saying the order would not apply to federal financial aid for students.
It’s still unclear if federally funded student success programs would be impacted. Many of those programs focus on students of color, and students from low-income backgrounds or those who are the first in their families to attend college. Officials anticipate pulling the plug on the programs could have a negative effect on Oregon’s future workforce.
“Oregon’s community colleges are on the frontline for workforce and economic development,” said Abby Lee, executive director of the Oregon Community College Association. “Our focus today and every day is to ensure Oregonians continue to have access to the affordable degrees, certificates, training, and employment opportunities Oregon’s colleges provide.”
Oregon
Sir Francis Drake’s ‘Fair and Good Bay’ was long thought to be in California. Now some experts point to Oregon
English explorer Sir Francis Drake sailed the Pacific in 1579, sacking Spanish galleons and stealing treasure, at least until his boat sprang a leak.
That’s when he found what he called a “Fair and Good Bay” in which to make repairs.
For years, Californians have claimed he landed on their shores. But a scholar at Portland State University says documents in the British Museum show the bay might well have been somewhere along the Oregon coast instead.
Whale Cove near Depoe Bay is a natural harbor with a protected little beach where a ship could be careened — that is, emptied and tipped sideways to expose the hull so sailors can pack gaps in the wooden planks with cotton and tar to stop leaks.
For decades there have been whispers that that’s exactly what Drake did in 1579.
“There are just these little pieces that seem like very tenuous threads,” said retired publisher Rick Beasley, who has heard all the tales.
“There’s a skiff or small boat that is buried in the sediment on the Salmon River,” he said. “There are ballast stones that are out there that divers have found.”
A boy is said to have found an old Spanish coin in his mum’s garden in Newport in 1948. But it was dated after Drake’s landing. Beeswax keeps washing up in the area too. But that’s from a Spanish galleon wrecked off Nehalem.
Exactly where Drake landed on the West Coast in 1579 has been hotly debated for decades. A Wikipedia page lists more than 40 possible locations, from Alaska to Mexico.
California has perhaps the biggest claim, based on findings of old pottery and other artifacts at Point Reyes. The National Park Service even named one area Drakes Bay.
But Melissa Darby, a research scholar in the anthropology department of Portland State University, says her reading of an old document in the British Museum indicates Drake likely landed in Oregon, not California.
The manuscript, from a collection known as the “Hakluyt manuscripts,” was written shortly after the voyage by Richard Hakluyt, one of the queen’s scribes.
“Scholars have been looking at it since the 1850s,” Darby said. “But they’ve been looking at a printed version that was published in 1855. And I went to England and looked at the manuscript itself.”
In her book “Thunder Go North,” Darby says the manuscript indicates Drake sailed as far as 48 degrees north latitude, then landed at 44 degrees for repairs. That puts him somewhere like Whale Cove, near Depoe Bay, instead of Point Reyes, California.
Marco Meniketti, a professor of archeology at San José State University, said people get quite animated about this issue.
“A lot of it has to do with bragging rights, ‘We were the first!’” Meniketti said.
Personally, Meniketti thinks Drake’s descriptions of local tribes match the coastal Miwok tribe in Point Reyes, but there’s room for debate.
“[The debate] is still alive because the evidence is not 100% bulletproof,” Meniketti said.
Drake Navigators Guild points out there are about 30 websites offering what it calls fringe and conspiracy theories on the location of the bay.
Claiming land around ‘Fair and Good Bay’
Back in 16th century England, one way to make a fortune was to gather a few friends together, build a ship and send it out to privateer — that is, steal from Spanish or French ships then divide the spoils with the English crown.
So it was in 1577 that a handful of the most powerful people in England sent Francis Drake out in the Golden Hind and four other ships to sail around South America into the Pacific Ocean.
The voyages proved unbelievably successful, mainly because the Spanish were not expecting English privateers in the Pacific.
“[The Spanish] were caught unawares and unguarded. They had no cannon pointing towards the ocean,” Darby explained. Drake “just went from treasure house to treasure house along the coast. And harried all the shipping.”
Drake’s biggest haul came from a ship called the Cacafuego.
“It took a day and a half just to download all the silver bars and chests of gold,” Darby said.
But Drake couldn’t simply head home with his spoils. In addition to being a privateer, he was a spy. Queen Elizabeth I had charged him with finding the Northwest Passage, a sea route explorers hoped would connect the Atlantic and the Pacific.
Drake headed north. But the Golden Hind was full of plunder and sprung a leak. He had to find a protected bay to careen the ship.
In the official record of voyage, Drake landed at a “Fair and Good Bay” where the crew remained for six to 10 weeks, trading with locals and claiming the land.
Europeans had four requirements for a land claim back then. A flag or plaque had to be placed; a religious ceremony held; the claim had to be published; and the explorer had to have an official discussion with the Indigenous leader explaining the claim.
Darby thinks Drake misread the traditional tribal offering to important visitors.
“They gave Drake this feathered headdress and he said: ‘Oh, well they’re giving me the crown of the country.’ Well, that was a total misconception,” Darby said.
When Drake returned to England, he proved to be both a hero and a problem. His haul provided enough money for Queen Elizabeth to build a fleet of warships. On the other hand, England wasn’t at war with Spain, so the queen had to distance herself.
“The queen said, ‘Oh no. I didn’t send Drake out. He’s a pirate and we’re going to return the treasure to you [Spain].’ That was a ruse,” Darby said.
“The treasure never got returned.”
Most importantly for this story, Drake gave the queen the logs of his voyage, including how far north he’d travelled. The official account places the Golden Hind at 42-43 degrees north latitude. But Darby and others think the real latitude was kept secret because the country that found a Northwest Passage would make millions on a cheaper trade route to Asia.
Darby also thinks England placed the official latitude lower because it was trying to grab land.
“The boundary of New Spain was right around San Francisco. So I’m sure they looked at a map and said, ‘This is unclaimed land.’ Drake didn’t see this land because he was looking for the Northwest Passage. ‘Well, we can’t leave this open so let’s just say he was down there.’”
Debate about where he landed may be heated, but some wonder whether it matters in the current era, when colonialism is largely condemned.
Many people think so, because Drake was the first British explorer to contact Native Americans on the West Coast. Also, crew member Diego was possibly among the first Black people to set foot in the West Coast.
Why people believe Drake landed in California
Darby also thinks history gives insight to the present. For example, one of the reasons the California bay has the momentum as Drake’s landing spot is that a brass plaque was found there in 1937. It was dated 1579 and said in part: “I [Drake] take possession of this Kingdom whose king and people freely resign their right and title.”
Herbert Bolton, a University of California, Berkeley, professor at the time, proclaimed it to be authentic. But a metallurgy test in the 1970s showed the plaque was probably a hoax.
Darby thinks racism was at work.
“[Californians] didn’t like the fact that Spain was claiming a lot of the history of California. And so they wanted to make the history of California a sparkling white history and so Drake was their hero,” she said.
Archeology professor Marco Meniketti also thinks Drake’s landing spot is important, because it spurred the Spanish to push their interest farther up the California coast.
“That created an impetus for Spain to start moving the Mission system further north,” Meniketti said.
The oral histories of some Native American tribes in Oregon do refer to visiting ships and wrecks. But not 400 years ago.
Robert Kentta with the Siletz Tribe said Drake’s sailors probably did trade during the weeks they were fixing their ship, and there are stories of swords and coins being found in Oregon — but nothing decisive. And, Kentta said, the descriptions of some Indigenous artifacts in voyage accounts give him cause for doubt.
“Drake’s journals even talked about the basketry being decorated with feathers, which is a very Central Californian coastal tradition, which has never been practiced here as far as I know,” he said.
The actual location of Drake’s “Fair and Good Bay” may never be decisively confirmed. There is a rumor that the original voyage logs still exist somewhere among the British crown’s private papers. But the truth is probably that they were incinerated in 1698, when Whitehall Palace in London burned to the ground.
Oregon
Oregon bill would ban new livestock farms in state’s most polluted areas
The biggest livestock farms would be prohibited from building or expanding in some of Oregon’s most polluted groundwater regions, under a proposed bill backed by environmental groups.
Those groups say it will keep nitrate pollution from getting worse in communities that rely on well water for drinking.
A coalition of environmental and sustainable farming advocacy groups is backing Senate Bill 80. Stand Up to Factory Farms argues Oregon should stop permitting new or expanding dairy farms and other big livestock farms from seeking a confined animal feeding operation, or CAFO, permit, in all of Oregon’s three groundwater management areas.
Those are areas with high levels of nitrate pollution in groundwater, and are designated by the Oregon Department of Environmental Quality.
Farm lobbying groups in the past have opposed attempts at a ban. They have argued it puts more unnecessary burdens on an industry they say is already over regulated.
It’s a move environmental groups say is common sense, especially in the Lower Umatilla Basin Groundwater Management Area, where nitrate pollution has been a known problem for the last 30 years, and where recent reports show it has become worse over the past decade. Nitrates can cause cancer and other illnesses if consumed in high quantities, and they’re especially harmful to infants.
Studies point to local large dairy and cattle farms, wastewater from food processing facilities, and farmers applying liquid manure as fertilizer to irrigated fields as the leading sources of pollution in the area.
“Our thought is, why make the problem worse when we can say, ‘Let’s not expand, let’s not add any more livestock to these areas,’” said Amy van Saun, a senior attorney at the Center for Food Safety’s Portland office, and a member of Stand Up to Factory Farms. “Because as strict as a permit may be, it’s only as good as whether it’s followed or enforced. And the problem we see is that the state still seems like they will always say yes to these operations as long as they’ve checked all the boxes.”
This is at least the third attempt at a CAFO moratorium in Oregon. The last time, during the 2023 state legislative session, plans for a ban were scrapped by legislators following heated debate over the impact the law would have on Oregon’s livestock farms. Instead, they passed Senate Bill 85, a reform package that included stricter water use and construction requirements for CAFO facilities.
Michele Okoh, a law professor specializing in environmental justice at Lewis and Clark College, said that, while stopping mega-dairies and other large livestock farms from being built does keep pollution from getting worse, it can be easy for operators to find loopholes.
She said producers could just operate smaller farms. So instead of having one large farm with 30,000 dairy cows, they can operate 10 farms with 3,000 cows. She points to North Carolina, a state that passed a swine farm moratorium in 2007, yet the number of CAFOs has ballooned in recent years.
She added that, for communities like the ones in northern Morrow and northwest Umatilla counties to see a change in the level of pollution in their groundwater, state agencies need to step in.
“There needs to be more monitoring and education for well owners,” she said. “Because at the end of the day, if you find the contamination and you can’t do very much about it, then you can’t protect your own health. So what is the value of knowing there’s contamination, but you don’t have options?”
Last year, Oregon Gov. Tina Kotek laid out plans to reduce nitrate pollution in that area, but progress has been slow.
Van Saun said while the proposed SB89 is not a cure for the problem, it will at least help it from getting worse while groups work toward regulatory solutions.
“We really need action to stop pollution at the sources, and so preventing new sources of pollution allows us a little bit more time to address those existing sources rather than continuing to pile on,” van Saun said.
-
Culture1 week ago
Book Review: ‘Somewhere Toward Freedom,’ by Bennett Parten
-
Business1 week ago
Opinion: Biden delivered a new 'Roaring '20s.' Watch Trump try to take the credit.
-
News1 week ago
Judges Begin Freeing Jan. 6 Defendants After Trump’s Clemency Order
-
Business5 days ago
Instagram and Facebook Blocked and Hid Abortion Pill Providers’ Posts
-
News3 days ago
Hamas releases four female Israeli soldiers as 200 Palestinians set free
-
Politics4 days ago
Oklahoma Sen Mullin confident Hegseth will be confirmed, predicts who Democrats will try to sink next
-
World3 days ago
Israel Frees 200 Palestinian Prisoners in Second Cease-Fire Exchange
-
News1 week ago
A Heavy Favorite Emerges in the Race to Lead the Democratic Party