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Restaurant Review: Game Meats, Barnacles and Other Adventures

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Restaurant Review: Game Meats, Barnacles and Other Adventures

Since it opened on a high-traffic strip of Avenue A in the spring, Foxface Natural has kept a low profile, as discreet and self-contained as a sealed envelope. At times it almost seems to be hiding. Slats on the window make it hard to see inside from the street. The exterior is painted battleship gray. There is no sign.

Nevertheless, the restaurant has attracted a small and fervent following. I don’t know many people who’ve eaten there so far, at least compared with Libertine or the new I Sodi, but the ones I do know say it’s their favorite new restaurant. It has become one of mine, too.

Whether it will be yours may depend on your tolerance for eccentricity. The soundtrack is heavy on recent Australian punk bands like Amyl and the Sniffers, the Chats and Alien Nosejob, played loud. The menu demands an adventurous spirit. If you get the whole fluke, roasted in a wood oven and served in a lake of olive oil with fistfuls of chopped garlic and parsley, the fish will not be filleted for you on a tableside gueridon. You will pick the flesh from the bones yourself.

For the right diners, this will be an exciting chance to learn about flatfish anatomy. For the wrong ones, it will be a nightmare. As a dinner companion in the first category put it while he was contemplating how best to eat the dorsal fin, which had browned in the oil into a long, crunchy and, as it turned out, delicious ridge, “This is not a restaurant for Karens.”

Foxface Natural describes itself in its Instagram bio as “a natural continuation of Foxface sandwiches.” This is like calling day a natural continuation of night. It’s accurate, but it leaves a lot unsaid.

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The last time I’d seen the name Foxface, it was on a sign outside what had once been the ticket office of Theatre 80 St Marks. Behind a window, sandwiches filled with things like elk osso buco or stewed tripe with ’nduja were being sold by a couple who live next door to the theater, Sivan Lahat and Ori Kushnir. They had no room for seats, but if you wanted to eat your sandwich right away they’d invite you to take it inside a tavern next door that specialized in very old film soundtracks and absinthe. This kept up for about three years before Foxface closed last September.

I haven’t seen any elk or tripe yet at Foxface Natural. But that doesn’t mean that Ms. Lahat and Mr. Kushnir have settled into a routine of chicken tenders. Roasted antelope chops appeared one night recently, and you can usually find a very good hand-chopped tartare of kangaroo. Raw kangaroo has a deeper and sometimes gamier flavor than beef, and David Santos, the executive chef, takes advantage of that by incorporating a complex spice blend inspired by Ethiopia into the purplish meat and serving it with a smoky, black purée of charred eggplant.

The meat that made the deepest impression on me was smoked Boer goat. A breed developed in South Africa, Boers are raised for eating, as opposed to milking or making into angora sweaters. Mr. Santos cooks it overnight at a low temperature in a smoker inherited from the last tenant, Harry & Ida’s Meat and Supply Co.

The pastrami that Harry & Ida’s made in it became an obsession for lovers of smoked meat. Foxface’s goat is a worthy successor to the pastrami — maybe even a natural continuation. What it most reminds me of, though, is Texas Hill Country barbecue, if pitmasters in Texas served their barbecue with things like saffron-scented tomato sauce and creamy roasted new-crop potatoes.

The mammals are likely to be the first thing most people notice about the menu. After four meals at Foxface Natural, though, I’ve come to think of it as a seafood restaurant that occasionally dabbles in antelope. Although most of the fish Mr. Santos serves are the opposite of exotic — he favors black sea bass, striped bass and a few other fixtures of the local waters— he is particular about whom he buys them from. He prefers fish that are caught on the end of a line by crews that practice the Japanese slaughtering technique known as ikejime.

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This method, thought to be more humane, also keeps the fish firm. You may notice the texture in uncooked dishes like the Boston mackerel that he cured in salt and apple vinegar one night. This was a take on a sushi-bar standard, served with a very un-Japanese sweet-pepper relish spooned over a fermented-pepper purée on a plate dotted with beehive-shaped domes of ricotta. (Like the heap of salted butter that accompanies each order of sourdough bread, the ricotta is made at the restaurant.)

I am sure, too, that ikejime was one thing that made it so pleasurable to dismantle and compare the flavors and textures of different parts of the roasted fluke, or to pull the flesh from the head, throat and belly of a butterflied black sea bass. But the thing that will really win over people who appreciate fresh fish is that Mr. Santos never seems to overcook it. He’ll pull it from the fire while there’s still some pink at the bone and sticky jellies still cling to the cartilage.

Dave Pasternack used to cook fish that way when Esca was still open. Eric Ripert and a handful of other chefs still do, but many others won’t. No doubt they get tired of having customers send fish back if it’s not completely firm and almost dry. So far, Mr. Santos doesn’t seem worried about that.

Of course, diners who won’t eat slightly pink sea bass may be reluctant to sign on for certain other items at Foxface Natural, too. Boiled gooseneck barnacles, for instance, which have been compared to dinosaur toes. Or the squares of grilled pig ear topped with white strips that look suspiciously like offal. These turn out to be the pickled skirt trimmed from a scallop — shellfish offal. They are very good dragged through a salsa verde tasting of parsley and cilantro, or a second sauce, a garlic-infused emulsion based on Basque pil-pil.

Mr. Santos, who was the chef and owner of a Portuguese restaurant in the Village called Louro until it closed eight years ago, brings a wide frame of reference to his kitchen. Some of his cooking, like the pil-pil and the fluke in olive oil, is flat-out Iberian. For striped bass steaks roasted on the spine he chose a spiced tomato sauce, chraime, originally from North Africa. The black sea bass, painted with turmeric sauce and splashed with what was essentially dill pistou, seemed to be an inspired reworking of the signature dish of Hanoi’s most famous fish restaurant, Cha Ca La Vong.

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Most of the main courses at Foxface Natural will feed two. When an especially large fish has come in, it may be enough for three or four. “We’re not small-plates people,” Ms. Lahat said across the counter one night.

They are, however, natural-wine people. The wines themselves are quite approachable, although the list is sometimes less than self-explanatory. The entire entry for one white poured by the glass reads “GraWü, Chourmo.” Does GraWü go down well with raw kangaroo? There is, it’s safe to say, only one place in New York to find out.

Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.

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Rudy Giuliani, Slow to Transfer Assets to Election Workers, Could Be Held in Contempt

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Rudy Giuliani, Slow to Transfer Assets to Election Workers, Could Be Held in Contempt

Rudolph W. Giuliani, the former mayor of New York, was grilled for hours in federal court on Friday after missing several deadlines to hand over $11 million of his prized possessions to two poll workers he defamed after the 2020 election.

Mr. Giuliani avoided, for now, being held in contempt of court — a charge he has been threatened with at various times during the case and that could include jail time.

But for most of his time on the stand, Mr. Giuliani frustrated the judge and the plaintiffs’ lawyers with a spotty memory and vague answers that slowed to a crawl proceedings that were already bogged down in minutiae.

For much of the seven-hour hearing, lawyers on both sides were preoccupied with the question: Where have you gone, Joe DiMaggio?

One of the central items of Mr. Giuliani’s collection of sports memorabilia is a jersey signed by Mr. DiMaggio, the Yankees legend, that hung over the former mayor’s fireplace. On Friday, Mr. Giuliani said he had no idea where it was.

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That was not the only missing Yankees great.

“There is no Reggie Jackson picture,” Mr. Giuliani said, referring to the right-fielder known as Mr. October. He had previously said in court documents that the picture would be handed over to the plaintiffs. But now, the photo didn’t exist, according to Mr. Giuliani. “The picture was Derek Jeter,” he said. “I was kind of confused about it.”

The judge, Lewis J. Liman, appeared skeptical of Mr. Giuliani’s puzzlement, noting that such a rare collectible, especially for an avowed Yankees fan, would be top of mind.

“I’m sorry,” Mr. Giuliani said in response to questions about the collectibles, and a number of other items that were expected to be found in his New York apartment. “When I looked, this is what I found.”

At the heart of the contempt charges he continues to face is whether Mr. Giuliani, 80, has been uncooperative with the handover of his personal assets, which will serve as a small down payment on the $148 million defamation judgment that he owes the plaintiffs, Ruby Freeman and her daughter, Shaye Moss. Mr. Giuliani said, repeatedly and without evidence, that the women helped steal the presidential election from Donald J. Trump more than four years ago.

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The assets include a 10-room apartment on the Upper East Side of Manhattan; a 1980 Mercedes-Benz convertible; a collection of 26 designer watches; and rare Yankees collectibles, the most valuable of which might be the signed and framed DiMaggio jersey.

More than two months after a federal court judge ordered Mr. Giuliani to hand over the items, the former mayor and his lawyers contend that he has tried to comply fully, but that the process has been onerous.

“Mr. Giuliani is an 80-year-old man who has been hit by a whirlwind of discovery,” said Joseph M. Cammarata, Mr. Giuliani’s lawyer, who specialized in divorce cases before joining the defense team. Mr. Giuliani is also facing civil and criminal charges in other cases, stemming from his time as Mr. Trump’s personal lawyer.

In roughly three hours on the stand on Friday, Mr. Giuliani repeatedly responded that he could not remember details about his personal items or their whereabouts.

While pressing Mr. Giuliani, Meryl Governski, one of the lawyers for the plaintiffs, turned her attention to a checking account subject to the seizure.

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“Where does it say that you turned over the cash?” she asked Mr. Giuliani, pointing out an omission in a recent letter he wrote to the court.

Mr. Giuliani, flipping through a bulky binder of materials, appeared flustered. “Are we talking about the Mercedes now?” he said.

As the hearing dragged on, lawyers on both sides seemed to test Judge Liman’s patience. After a long series of objections by Mr. Cammarata, nearly all of them overruled, Judge Liman chastised the defense.

“If you have one more speaking objection, sir, you’re going to have to sit down,” he said. “You know the rules.”

On Thursday, Mr. Giuliani’s lawyer asked if his client could appear virtually, because of medical issues related to his left knee, as well as breathing problems attributed to Mr. Giuliani’s time spent at the World Trade Center after the Sept. 11 attacks.

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But Judge Liman, who had a testy exchange with Mr. Giuliani about the case in November, said he would not accept Mr. Giuliani’s testimony unless he attended in person. So the former mayor, in a dark blue suit and glasses, walked into the 15th floor courtroom on Friday with a visible limp and a dry cough.

The transfer was originally scheduled to take place in late October. But one deadline after another has passed, and lawyers for the women said they have received only a fraction of the property.

The women have yet to receive legal possession of Mr. Giuliani’s apartment, once listed for over $6 million, in part because paperwork has not been updated since his divorce from his ex-wife Judith Giuliani, according to court filings. The title to Mr. Giuliani’s convertible, which he said was once owned by Lauren Bacall, has yet to be transferred.

But Mr. Giuliani raised eyebrows on Election Day, when he appeared in the passenger seat of the same convertible, more than a week after the initial turnover deadline. On Friday, he said he has requested a copy of the title to the car three times, but has yet to receive it.

In November, Mr. Giuliani’s original lawyers withdrew from the case, citing an undisclosed professional ethics reason.

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In a recently unsealed letter explaining their departure, one of the lawyers, Kenneth Caruso, a longtime friend of Mr. Giuliani, said his client was not cooperating in the discovery process related to a condominium he owns in Palm Beach, Fla., and was withholding access to his electronic devices.

The judge will determine on Monday whether Mr. Giuliani was uncooperative during the discovery process. A separate hearing will be held to discuss his turnover efforts.

Later this month, Mr. Giuliani also faces the possibility of contempt charges in a Washington, D.C., court, where he has been accused of continuing to publicly make false claims about the two Georgia poll workers.

On Jan. 16, Mr. Giuliani is expected back in court to argue that his Palm Beach condo, as well as three personalized Yankees World Series rings, should be excluded from the handover.

Outside the courthouse, at a prepared mic stand, Mr. Giuliani, who typically appeared energized and combative, demurred.

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“It would be inappropriate and unwise to say a darn thing about this case right now,” he said.

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9 Plays to Warm Up Winter in New York

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9 Plays to Warm Up Winter in New York

In New York, Broadway hits its winter lull in January, as Off Broadway and beyond burst into activity. If most of the tourists have gone home after the holidays, many of the visiting theater artists have arrived from all over, for the annual festivals that draw a tantalizing breadth of new work.

The venerable Under the Radar festival (Saturday through Jan. 19), now in its post-Public Theater era, is blossoming lushly again, with some of the city’s major companies participating. The Prototype Festival (Thursday through Jan. 19) has a full menu of interdisciplinary opera, while the Exponential Festival (through Feb. 2) centers local emerging experimental theater makers. There’s also the International Fringe Encore Series (through March 16), whose lineup includes “Gwyneth Goes Skiing,” one of two Gwyneth Paltrow-focused shows at last year’s Edinburgh Festival Fringe.

It’s a bountiful month, on festival stages and elsewhere. Here are nine shows worth keeping in mind.

In this hourlong play by the Iranian writer-director Amir Reza Koohestani, a political prisoner in Tehran asks her husband to help a young woman, who was blinded in a protest, to run a marathon in Paris. The more dangerous race is the one they undertake from there: trying to cross the English Channel through the tunnel without being hit by a train. A two-hander performed in Persian with English supertitles, and presented with Arian Moayed’s company, Waterwell, it’s about surveillance, oppression and the insistent pursuit of freedom. The critic Michael Billington called it “mesmerizing.” Part of Under the Radar. (Saturday through Jan. 24, St. Ann’s Warehouse)

The Canadian puppet artist Ronnie Burkett is a marvel to watch, manipulating populous casts of marionettes all on his own. Too seldom seen in New York, he arrives this month for a brief run of his new play, which landed on The Globe and Mail’s top-10 list of 2024 shows. The story is about an old man, Joe, and his aged dog, Mister, who lose their home to gentrification and hit the streets, approaching misfortune as adventure. This is not puppetry for little ones, though; audience members must be 16 or older. Part of Under the Radar. (Tuesday through Jan. 12, Lincoln Center)

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The company Wakka Wakka (“The Immortal Jellyfish Girl”) descends into the underworld with this sparkling puppet piece about a pair of skeletons: a dodo and a boy. Their ancient bones are in the process of disintegrating. Then, out of nowhere, the bird grows a new bone, sprouts fresh feathers — and is apparently not dead as a dodo after all. Directed by Gwendolyn Warnock and Kirjan Waage, who wrote it with the ensemble, this show is recommended for ages 7 and up. But be warned: Wakka Wakka does not shy from darkness. Part of Under the Radar. (Wednesday through Feb. 9, Baruch Performing Arts Center)

American history and politics are Robert Schenkkan’s dramatic bailiwick. He won a Pulitzer Prize for “The Kentucky Cycle” and a Tony Award for “All the Way.” And Brian Cox starred as Lyndon B. Johnson in Schenkkan’s most recent Broadway production, “The Great Society.” For this satire, though, the playwright teams up with the Portuguese company Mala Voadora and the director Jorge Andrade to tell a distinctly Portuguese story, pitting the rooster that is a symbol of that country against António de Oliveira Salazar, the dictator who ruled it for decades. Part of Under the Radar. (Wednesday through Jan. 19, 59E59 Theaters)

Eliya Smith, a master of fine arts candidate at the University of Texas at Austin whose previous forays into New York theater include the intriguingly strange, fragmented elegy “Deadclass, Ohio,” makes her Off Broadway playwriting debut with this world premiere. Directed by the Obie Award winner Les Waters (“Dana H.”), it’s about a group of teenagers in a summer cabin in Hurt, Va., confronting loss. And, yes, even this camp has a resident guitarist. (Thursday through Feb. 16, Atlantic Theater Company)

The experimental company Target Margin Theater does not pussyfoot when it comes to re-examining canonical classics. Adapted and directed by David Herskovits, this interpretation of “Show Boat” aims to reframe the Jerome Kern and Oscar Hammerstein II musical from 1927, about the entertainers and others aboard a riverboat on the Mississippi in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Groundbreaking in its time for its themes, including racism and interracial marriage, “Show Boat” has long been accused of being racist itself. The content advisory warns: “The production includes racially offensive language and incidents.” Part of Under the Radar. (Thursday through Jan. 26, N.Y.U. Skirball)

The Golan Heights-based writer-performer Khawla Ibraheem plays a Gazan woman rehearsing what she will do if she hears a low-level warning bomb — a “knock on the roof” by the Israeli military — which would mean she had only minutes to evacuate her home before an airstrike escalated. Directed by the Obie winner Oliver Butler (“What the Constitution Means to Me”), who developed the play with Ibraheem, it won awards at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe this summer. Part of Under the Radar, this production moves to the Royal Court Theater in London in February. (Jan. 10 through Feb. 16, New York Theater Workshop)

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Jordan Harrison’s new play imagines a history of the Late Human Age as told by the “nonorganic beings” who will succeed us. Starting on the night in 1816 when Mary Shelley told her ghost story, it hops through time to 2240. Building on themes Harrison contemplated in “Marjorie Prime,” it’s about what it is to be human, and whether we’ve sown the seeds of our destruction. Produced with the Vineyard Theater in New York and the Goodman Theater in Chicago, where it is slated to run this spring. David Cromer and Caitlin Sullivan direct. (Jan. 11 through Feb. 23, Playwrights Horizons)

The writer-director Matthew Gasda, who first gained traction a few years back with his scenester play “Dimes Square,” now stages an adaptation of Chekhov’s “Uncle Vanya,” created with its actors over the past year. Bob Laine, a star of “Dimes Square” (which makes a fleeting return this month), plays the title role in “Vanya,” opposite fellow “Dimes Square” cast member Asli Mumtas as Vanya’s longed-for love interest, Yelena. (Jan. 14 through Feb. 4, Brooklyn Center for Theater Research)

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Video: Adams’s Former Chief Adviser and Her Son Charged With Corruption

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Video: Adams’s Former Chief Adviser and Her Son Charged With Corruption

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Adams’s Former Chief Adviser and Her Son Charged With Corruption

Ingrid Lewis-Martin, who resigned as Mayor Eric Adams’s chief adviser, and her son, Glenn D. Martin II, were charged with taking $100,000 in bribes from two businessmen in a quid-pro-quo scheme.

We allege that Ingrid Lewis-Martin engaged in a long-running bribery, money laundering and conspiracy scheme by using her position and authority as the chief adviser of — chief adviser to the New York City mayor, the second-highest position in city government — to illegally influence city decisions in exchange for in excess of $100,000 in cash and other benefits for herself and her son, Glenn Martin II. We allege that real estate developers and business owners Raizada “Pinky” Vaid and Mayank Dwivedi paid for access and influence to the tune more than $100,000. Lewis-Martin acted as an on-call consultant for Vaid and Dwivedi, serving at their pleasure to resolve whatever issues they had with D.O.B. on their construction projects, and she did so without regard for security considerations and with utter and complete disregard for D.O.B.’s expertise and the public servants who work there.

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