ERVING — To help maintain public climbing access at the Farley Ledges along Route 2, the Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition has acquired 70 acres of land that will be developed into a 60-vehicle parking lot and a new trailhead.

The coalition coordinated with the national advocacy organization Access Fund and funded the land acquisition through its Climbing Conservation Loan Program, which offers loans to local organizations that are seeking to acquire and protect climbing land across the U.S.

“This acquisition represents the second phase of WMCC’s multi-year ‘Farley Conservation
Initiative,’ designed to enhance public access and safeguard climbing at Farley Ledges,” a statement from the Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition reads. “With this new purchase, WMCC is moving closer to its vision to secure long-term public access to the ledges with sufficient parking, ATV access for emergency crews and permanent protection of the cliff.”

The coalition is a volunteer-run nonprofit that works with stakeholders in town government, advocacy groups, landowners and conservation groups to keep climbing areas open and accessible to climbers of all backgrounds, and to conserve the climbing environment.

The coalition also received financial support from a Community Foundation of North Central Massachusetts grant and $5,000 from the Central Rock Gym in Hadley.

“This project marks a major milestone in a 20-year-long effort to expand access to
Massachusetts’ premier rock climbing,” Jon LaValley, a founding member of the coalition, said in a statement. “There’s no shame in the long game.”

Coalition Executive Board Member Nick Friedman purchased the 25 Old State Road property in 2023 to take the land off the market and allow time for applying for permits and grants. The land was sold to the Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition in December at a price of $182,500, according to real estate transactions.

Friedman, a Cambridge resident, said he’s been climbing at the Farley Ledges for 15 years and he believes the land purchase and development represents a “massive step forward” in keeping access open to the public at the ledges.

The coalition is seeking to raise $430,000 to pay back the Access Fund loans. So far, the coalition has raised $53,775, meeting its 2025 goal. In addition to paying for the land acquisition, the Access Fund loans will cover the cost of the new parking lot, the construction of a new trailhead, and amenities like a portable toilet, a shed for tool storage and information kiosks.

“Access Fund has maintained a long partnership with WMCC dating back to the very beginning of our loan program,” Access Fund’s National Acquisitions Director Brian Tickle said in a statement. “This most recent acquisition permanently protects access to one of the prized crags in the Northeast and we’re honored to be a part of it.”

The donation page explains that by opening up parking access, the goal is to alleviate parking congestion along Route 2 and in surrounding neighborhoods. The new parking lot would also offer a proper staging area for first responders to access the Farley Ledges without closing down Route 2 to traffic.

Stephanie Giguere, operating executive with the Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition, explained that the development of the new trailhead will open up access to the western edge of the cliff. The parking lot will also be made of a permeable material to allow for stormwater drainage.

The donation page also notes that the goal is to protect a majority of the acreage through a conservation restriction. The coalition will respect that more than 50% of the ledges are privately owned and will not publish trail route information on private land.

Elayne Bryan, general manager of the Central Rock Gym in Hadley, said the indoor climbing gym has maintained a positive relationship with the coalition. The gym donated $5,000 toward the effort to purchase and protect Farley Ledges.

“It’s such a local gem,” Bryan said, adding that protecting access for climbers is an important initiative.