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‘Modern Love’ Podcast: Natasha Rothwell on Figuring Out What She Wants In a Relationship

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‘Modern Love’ Podcast: Natasha Rothwell on Figuring Out What She Wants In a Relationship
speaker 1

Love now and —

speaker 2

Did you fall in love last night?

speaker 3

Just tell her I love her.

speaker 4

Love is stronger than anything you can see.

speaker 5

Feel the love.

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speaker 6

Love.

speaker 7

And I love you more than anything.

speaker 8

What is love?

speaker 9

Here’s to love.

speaker 10

Love.

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[MUSIC PLAYING]

anna martin

From “The New York Times,” I’m Anna Martin. This is “Modern Love.” Every week, we bring you stories about love, lust, and all the messiness of relationships, inspired by the “Modern Love” column. This week, Emmy-nominated actor and writer Natasha Rothwell.

You might recognize her from the HBO show “The White Lotus,” where she plays Belinda, a spa manager. This season, Season 3, she’s finally getting some spa treatments for herself while she’s on a work exchange in Thailand. But in Season 1, when we first met her, she was trying to figure out how to become her own boss as she worked at a hotel in Hawaii.

archived recording belinda

Yeah, I just got to work myself. [LAUGHS]

archived recording

You’re never not at work.

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archived recording belinda

Well, you think I’m working hard now, wait till I start my own business.

archived recording

What are you talking about?

archived recording belinda

I don’t know. I think I’m getting ahead of myself.

anna martin

Like her character, Rothwell is no stranger to manifesting what she wants. Way before she was even cast in “The White Lotus,” she dreamed of working with its creator, Mike White.

natasha rothwell

He is someone that I was just like, I want to be in his orbit. And then when the show came to be, I was terrified. I didn’t even want to take the meeting, because it was COVID 2020, pre-vaccination. It was scary times. And I could have said no and just stayed home and wiped down my groceries. [LAUGHS]

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anna martin

Being scared or nervous didn’t stop her from going after her dreams. And that’s what the majority of Rothwell’s characters are like. They’re willing to push through discomfort to put their needs first.

Take, for example, the show Rothwell created and starred in, which ran for one season on Hulu. It’s called “How to Die Alone.” In it, her character Mel is on a journey of self-love. In this one moment on the show, she needs a push from her friends to go after a promotion, even though it could jeopardize her relationship with the guy she’s interested in.

archived recording

Putting yourself first is not being selfish.

archived recording mel

Yes, it is. If it hurts somebody, you got to put your needs aside.

archived recording

Be honest, do you want to take this management class?

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archived recording mel

It does come with a raise.

archived recording

Bitch, take the class!

anna martin

Today, Rothwell reads a “Modern Love” essay called “I Decentered Men — Decentering Desire for Men is Harder” by Jasmine Brawley. It’s pretty easy to understand why she picked this essay. Whether through her characters or in her own life, Rothwell understands the challenges and the joys of putting your own needs first. Stay with us.

[MINIMAL INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC]

[INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC PLAYING]

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Natasha Rothwell, welcome to “Modern Love.”

natasha rothwell

Thank you for having me.

anna martin

Natasha, I want to start by asking you about something that you’ve talked really openly about and seem to be a huge fan of, and that is vision boarding.

natasha rothwell

[LAUGHS]:

anna martin

Am I correct in saying you’re a fan of that?

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natasha rothwell

I am. I am.

anna martin

I feel more and more people are talking about vision boarding. I’m constantly fed content on my Instagram about manifesting your dream life. What is vision boarding to you, and how are you doing it?

natasha rothwell

I think for someone like me, I’m busy a lot. And I feel like the end of the year, it’s an opportunity to take time and think about what I’m wanting from the year ahead.

anna martin

Can you tell me or share some specific things you’ve put on a vision board, and perhaps if it’s worked out for you?

natasha rothwell

Yeah. On previous boards, I printed out a clipart version of a call sheet. For every show, you get this call sheet, and it’s got all the details of the production — everyone who’s working, when they’re working. Then a list of the cast, and it’s in numerical order. And number one is typically the person on the call sheet that is the lead, or the most important person.

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And I wanted that. I wanted to work towards that, and I did. I had my own show called “How to Die Alone.” And I created it.

And I just remember seeing my name as number one. And I was like, I did it! I did it! I did it.

anna martin

Natasha, I have to be honest with you. I have never vision boarded in my life. And hearing you talk about it, I’m like, wow, it has really worked out for you. And maybe I’m missing out on something, but I just feel like I’ve been kind of resistant to it.

natasha rothwell

Yeah.

anna martin

Because it feels —

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natasha rothwell

It’s kind of cringe, yeah.

anna martin

No, but I do want things, right? I want them a lot. I want a lot of things.

natasha rothwell

Well, yeah. I was that way by even speaking my wants and needs.

anna martin

Yeah.

natasha rothwell

And so I was so tight-lipped about saying what I wanted out loud, because it felt like too much just to say I want these things. But now I go into meetings and I say, I want hardware. I was like, let’s write a show. I want hardware on my shelf. I want —

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anna martin

Oh, I didn’t know what you meant by that. I was like, she wants a hammer.

natasha rothwell

I want a really nice brass door handle. No, I want trophies, you know what I mean?

anna martin

Yes, totally! OK, hell yeah.

natasha rothwell

Yeah. And a lot of executives I’m in meetings with, when they hear me say that, they kind of perk up. And I’m like, I said the quiet part out loud.

anna martin

Mm!

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natasha rothwell

We love this. We do this because it’s our heart’s passion. But at the end of the day, we want the respect and the recognition of our peers, and that’s one of the ways. And so I feel like putting things on the vision board, as cringe as it is, it is this sort of tongue-in-cheek, playful reminder.

anna martin

What do you think changed for you that made you able to do that?

natasha rothwell

Girl, therapy! 20 years. I’ve been grinding.

anna martin

20 years.

natasha rothwell

But I was such a people pleaser. I was such a people pleaser. So much so — I can’t believe I’m telling you this story.

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I was a vegetarian for 12 years. But there was a moment where I ate meat, and it was because I didn’t have the courage to tell my best friend at the time. Her mother made chicken enchiladas when I came to visit.

And so I sat there, and I was just like, I guess I’m going to eat this. And I ate it. Got real, real sick because it had been a long time since I’d eaten meat. That’s how much of a people pleaser I was.

anna martin

You’re just sitting there, the plate of poultry that you haven’t ingested in years in front of you. And you’re like, I will put this in. Wow! OK.

natasha rothwell

That’s a peak unable to speak my needs.

anna martin

That is tough. Real physical implications to that one, too.

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natasha rothwell

Exactly.

anna martin

That’s rough.

natasha rothwell

That was pre-therapy. So now I’m no longer making concessions. I’m articulating my needs and saying my dreams out loud.

anna martin

I’ve actually read in an interview with you that you call yourself a recovering people pleaser. You’re saying it’s therapy, but I want to get a little more specific, just because I actually think it’s very apt to the “Modern Love” essay you’re going to read. How did you recover from that tendency? How did you center yourself and your needs?

natasha rothwell

Well, I think for me, instead of deriving value from another person and their pleasure, I centered myself. I became the main character of my life. And it’s that main character energy that I just never had.

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And it’s also consequence, because I’m consuming television in which thick Black women were never centered. And so it was walking through the world not thinking that I should put myself first. And so it’s a perspective shift.

And at the direction of my therapist, she encouraged me to follow some fatty baddies on Instagram to diversify my perspective. Because I think so often I’m inundated with straight-sized women, and subconsciously that plays on my value. And so I started cutting the ones that were lingerie models and doing boudoir pictures, and I put them on my vision board.

anna martin

I love that.

natasha rothwell

Because I just wanted to lean into the sexy and wanted-ness of those images. And so much of what therapy is, it’s giving you tools. But you have to decide whether or not you pick them up, right?

And you have to decide in the moment of when these thoughts come up, do I entertain it? Do I give it weight? Do I identify with it? Or can I just acknowledge it in this moment that I want to please this person and decide if that’s an authentic feeling that I genuinely want to, or if I’m just trying to placate a version of myself that derived worth from their pleasure?

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anna martin

And that feels very resonant with the “Modern Love” essay you chose to read today. This is by a woman, this author, who seems like she’s figured out how to put herself first. She prides herself on not needing validation from romantic partners.

She really, I will say this, seems to have her vision board on lock. She knows what she wants out of life. Why don’t you go ahead and read this essay for us?

natasha rothwell

“I Decentered Men — Decentering Desire for Men is Harder,” by Jasmine Brawley. “You don’t want to get married?” Roy said. I always bristled at this question.

“No,” I said with a sheepish smile and modest shrug. I’ve learned to make people, namely men, feel comfortable with my steely answer through humble body language. It’s too much of a burden to want that, when I also want to live a really big life.

Roy’s brow wrinkled as he played with the lukewarm French fries on his plate. This sunny diner reminded me of my favorite Southern aunt’s kitchen. Maybe that’s why I felt so at home sitting there with him — or maybe it was just him.

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“I think I get what you’re saying,” he said in his Texas drawl. A long beat passed. This was one of the many things I liked about him — his flirty relationship with measured silences.

Finally, he said, “I want to get married one day. You know why? I know my big life will be bigger with her.”

I met Roy at a bar crawl in Dallas on Juneteenth 2022 — one of the best times and places to be Black, young and proud. Fresh off of my flight from Chicago, I was warm, drunk and happy as I followed my girlfriends through a throng of party goers, when I felt a tug at my denim shorts. I turned around to see Roy standing there, all tall, dark, and smiley. “May I help you?” I asked. “Yeah, I think you can.”

We wound up dancing, joking, and touching long enough for my friends to have to come find me in the crowd to share that they were moving on to the next bar. Before following them out, Roy and I exchanged numbers.

I never expected to hear from him again. Just like with most flirtatious touch points I’d had with men over the years, I couldn’t have cared less. At 32, I had long given myself permission to reach self-actualization with or without ever finding everlasting romantic love. I had familial love, friend love.

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Unlike some of my girlfriends whose ultimate joy hinged on their nameless, faceless future husband and children, I often panicked at the thought of tethering myself to such things. There’s so much more to life, I would think to myself, as my friends talked about their dream dress or the ideal diamond cut for the ring they would proudly wear for the rest of their lives. How they would be the matriarch in their modern day version of the Huxtables, the epitome of the Black and excellent nuclear family structure. All of that just made me nauseated to think about.

I would like to think my disconnect from domesticity stemmed from a string of teenage and 20-something heartaches at the hand of relationships and situationships gone wrong, but it started way before that.

In second grade, I noticed how serious the girls would get around their crushes, and how they would change their little burgeoning personalities to suit what they thought would get the boys’ attention. Even then, at six, I thought, ew.

I read that many adolescent girls are inundated during their formative years with images that shape their expectations of love, which informs most of their biggest decisions in life. And most of the yearnings that they would later have to be a wife were just the manifestation of early conditioning from the Disney fairy tale movies they watched growing up.

That’s exactly why I didn’t let myself expect too much from Roy that first night we met. Yeah, the flirting felt delicious. And he showed the classic signs that he liked me just as much.

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But so what? I had no vision of what was next, and was fine leaving him where I met him. I hadn’t dated anyone in nearly a year at that point — and it was wonderful, which was a bit weird.

So I took to the internet to investigate, and I found the TikTok-ified term for what I had been feeling for most of my life. I had officially decentered men. It’s a movement that holds space for women to put themselves first, rather than focusing everything — whether they realize it or not — on men’s opinions and influence.

After falling down the TikTok rabbit hole, I realized one of the things I found I loved most about the phenomenon was that the movement wasn’t about rejecting your femininity. It also wasn’t about hating, intentionally repelling, or removing men, either. Men simply took too much energy to care about — for me, anyway. And this was about women not putting men at the center of their lives.

It’s not a new concept at all. At least four waves of feminism involve some form of women centering themselves over men in their lives — even cis het women. Finally, I felt like I wasn’t alone in my disinterest with the concept of landing and keeping a man to be the validation of my existence as a woman. And yet, my heart still leapt when Roy texted me two days later.

My face hurt from all the smiling I did when we went on our perfect first date the next evening. My stomach ached from the deep belly laughs his well-timed jokes pulled from me.

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We wound up spending the entire night together, bonding in a way I hadn’t with a guy since before I recognized the type of damage men could do if I wasn’t vigilant with my heart. God, who was I becoming?

Over the next several months, any time I was in Dallas for work or to visit friends, Roy was a priority. When I was there, I was his. The irony, though, is that I would go a long time not talking to him at all — no texts, no calls, nothing. It was a great way to affirm to myself that I came first, to not get too lost in the flowery, poetic nature of it all.

My life was still mine. My feet were still on the ground. There would be no family planning, no delusion, no fantasizing or floaty daydreaming about what a home would feel like if the two of us created one together.

Nope. I’d think, men aren’t my focus. Roy isn’t my focus. And that worked well, until I made plans to see him during a trip to Dallas for my best friend’s birthday.

I texted him an itinerary, planned a dinner, bought expensive gifts, quaffed, waxed, and primed myself in anticipation for the time we would spend together. Upon touching down, I sent him a simple text that said, “do you still have time for me? Just arrived in your city.” “Absolutely,” he replied.

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I texted him the location of the restaurant I had painstakingly chosen for us to have dinner that night. I sent another text a few hours later to make sure the time I chose worked for him. The hours ticked by. Nothing.

The next day, his radio silence alarmed me. So I reached out again to make sure he was OK. He responded, “sorry, I got caught up in some things. Can’t wait to see you today.”

“Totally fine,” I told him. A do over could happen that day at brunch, or that night at the lounge my friends and I planned to go to. He agreed.

I shared all the meet up details, cautiously giddy again. I imagined how the night would go. And people would remark on how good Roy’s and my version of Black love looked when we walked into the venue, hand-in-hand. But he never showed up.

The next day, as I sat on the plane ride home, I had time to ponder just how much more space Roy took up in my life than I realized, and how his absence reinforced that. As much as I wanted to believe that my dream career, healthy friendships, and self-indulgent hobbies took up all the real estate in my heart, there was still enough wiggle room for something else to get in — love?

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Eventually, as I deplaned in Chicago, Roy texted a short, vague apology for his unresponsiveness. There was noticeably no further explanation for what caused it. At that point, it didn’t matter to me. I needed to hurry up and get home to steam the sexy dress I planned to wear for the dinner reservation happening in a few hours.

I had a hot date, with myself.”

anna martin

After the break, Natasha talks about her experiences with the Roys in her own life. That’s next.

[MINIMAL INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC]

All right, Natasha, tell me your immediate reactions to this essay. What does it bring up for you?

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natasha rothwell

I’m so angry at Roy. I still —

anna martin

Thank you!

natasha rothwell

Like, my god! The number of times I’ve had Roys in my life where they have fumbled the bag. Where I’m like, do you know who I am — and not even career-wise, but just as a human? Do you know what I mean?

anna martin

Totally!

natasha rothwell

I’m surrounded by boss ass bitches who got Roys in their life wasting their time.

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anna martin

This is dedicated to all the Roys out there.

natasha rothwell

Yes.

anna martin

This is a country — this is a world full of Roys.

natasha rothwell

Yes!

anna martin

And that sucks. Let’s just say that.

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natasha rothwell

That sucks.

anna martin

That sucks.

natasha rothwell

That sucks.

anna martin

And the work of so many incredible women — I would like to include myself in that —

natasha rothwell

Yes, girl!

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anna martin

— is just sort of sifting through the Roys.

natasha rothwell

Yeah.

anna martin

I’m doing a shovel motion, for those who are listening. But I don’t know why I’m digging. I’m digging in my mind.

natasha rothwell

I feel you when you were doing that motion. I’m like, yeah, it feels oppressive —

anna martin

Yes!

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natasha rothwell

— to be, one, confronted with hope. Like, that feels almost violent for the hope to be provoked and taken away by the same person.

anna martin

Can you share maybe an example from your own life where, as you put it, a Roy fumbled it? And how did you handle it? How did you pick yourself up and move forward after that hope disappeared?

natasha rothwell

Yeah. So many Roys to choose from for this story.

anna martin

Well, you take your pick.

natasha rothwell

There’s definitely been a moment where a Roy played upon that kind of particular and acute vulnerability of women who are longing for partnership and to be seen. And it’s kind of insidious how it slips in. It’s like, good morning.

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anna martin

Yeah.

natasha rothwell

The infamous fuck boy good morning text.

anna martin

Totally.

natasha rothwell

And I fell for it hook, line, and sinker. And now you have schedule send. So these Roys probably have many, many women that they’re —

anna martin

I never thought about that.

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natasha rothwell

Oh, I think about it all the time. I’m like, I wonder where I am in the lineup with this guy.

anna martin

Shoot! Oh, my god. OK, well, that’s a whole can of worms I’ll think about later tonight.

natasha rothwell

But I do think the bait is particularly appetizing for those of us, yourself included, who are like boss ass bitches, who are in this alpha mode, running their lives, running businesses. Because it’s this “are you OK” is the subtext. And how often do we have someone check in on us because people think we have it handled. And so it’s this little comfort pocket you can nuzzle into of just —

anna martin

Yeah.

natasha rothwell

—“yeah, good morning to you, too. How was your day? Thanks for asking.” [LAUGHS]

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anna martin

What do you think made you susceptible to the powers of Roy at that point?

natasha rothwell

Yeah, I think most Roys can slip in when — I think my life can be rather chaotic. And when I forget to pour into myself and a Roy’s like, I got a pitcher of water, that’s an easier lift than pouring into myself. I’d be like, oh, I’ll drink from this source.

anna martin

Yeah.

natasha rothwell

So those moments I’m the most susceptible is when I know that I need to fill my cup, because you can’t pour from an empty cup. And rather than fill the cup myself, it’s when I’m going for the whatever drink that they are offering, metaphorically.

anna martin

Mm-hmm.

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natasha rothwell

And that’s when I betray myself. Because I do think what Jasmine is doing is talking about the need to fill her own cup. She takes herself out on this date. And she’s not waiting for a man to treat her well, she’s going to treat herself well. And I think that’s how you combat it.

anna martin

This is giving a whole new meaning to when you call someone “thirsty.”

natasha rothwell

Listen, the metaphor comes from real.

anna martin

There you go.

natasha rothwell

But that is so true.

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anna martin

I want to talk about something the author of the essay, Jasmine Brawley, says at the beginning of her piece. She goes all the way back to her childhood. And she writes about how many — this is a quote — “many adolescent girls are inundated during their formative years with images that shape their expectations of love, which inform most of their biggest decisions in life.” Was that true for you growing up? What expectations did you have of love, and how were they formed?

natasha rothwell

I had immense expectations [LAUGHS]: about love. And I think part of it, my parents celebrated 46 years of being married on the 23rd of February.

anna martin

Wow. Congratulations, mom and dad.

natasha rothwell

I mean, truly. And as wonderful of an example that is, it’s oppressive. That’s a high bar, you know what I mean? It’s like, not everyone’s going to have that.

And compounding that was romcoms, and “When Harry Met Sally,” and all of these cinematic depictions that love was the cure all. Right? And it definitely formed my opinion of what to expect.

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In terms of my parents, very famously my mom says she was on this youth trip with the church and my dad was on the bus. And they were sitting together and my mom fell asleep on his arm. And she’s just like, in that moment, I felt like God was telling me this is my person.

anna martin

Wow!

natasha rothwell

So that just sent me, a clumsy 15-year-old, all through Westlake High School grabbing random dudes’ arms, being like, is this the one? Is this the one?

anna martin

Sorry, let me just fall asleep really quick.

natasha rothwell

Yeah, just like, is this — nope, nope. And it’s just like, “yo, Natasha’s walking around school just grabbing boys’ arms.” And I’m like, “I’m doing something, thanks. I’m waiting for God to speak to me through this bicep.”

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anna martin

Hello? Yeah.

natasha rothwell

I can laugh at it now, but I think that the impulse is beautiful to want to be loved, to want to love, to want to be seen. And I think that the beauty of this essay, it’s reminding you to fall in love and to chase and to woo yourself. Because I didn’t have that part of my equation for the longest time.

I want to say for the better part of the last 10, 15 years, I’ve been courting myself. I’ve been really trying to center myself in the same way that she describes. And it resonated with me so hard because, again, she acknowledges that the desire is always going to be there. But you have the —

anna martin

The desire for men.

natasha rothwell

Yeah.

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anna martin

Yeah, or a partner.

natasha rothwell

A partner, yeah. And you have the agency to also choose yourself. You can decide.

anna martin

You say for the last 10 or 15 years, which is a long-term relationship, you have been courting yourself. You’ve been wooing yourself. Can you give me a specific look into what that means for you? For Jasmine, the author of the essay, it’s wearing a sexy dress and eating a delicious meal. What does that mean in your life to you?

natasha rothwell

For me — and I want to clarify. The last 15 years, it wasn’t a perfect, blissful relationship with myself. At times it was abusive. I would not treat myself very well. And I would be sleep deprived, haven’t eaten.

And what it looks like for me now in a big way, is honoring my wants and my needs. Giving myself permission to rest. And I think there are so many small micro moments of love that we can do for ourselves.

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And, yes, the bath was great, and the candles and all of that. But it’s like, you know what? I’m going to sleep in tonight. Or you know what? I don’t want to go to this party that everyone says I have to go to. I just want to stay home and crossword. That’s what I’m going to do.

anna martin

Or vision board — to bring it back.

natasha rothwell

Or vision board, right. If it’s the end of the year, I’m vision boarding. But most of the times, it’s crosswording.

anna martin

Yeah, I think loving ourselves often means protecting ourselves, as you’re pointing out — protecting our peace, protecting the ways we like to live, or take care of ourselves. But then I guess the question is, what happens when something or someone new enters the picture? I’m thinking about the author of this essay, how she’d carefully constructed her life to not revolve around men. And then she meets Roy, and he throws everything off-balance. Do you think the author was panicked by that?

natasha rothwell

The panic, at least as I see it, it’s that fear that the independence and strength that you’ve found will be betrayed by the desire that you have for this person. And I think it is something that you can’t predict or know. You can lose yourself at any time. And I think that’s the risk-reward of it.

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When I lived in New York, there was a Roy. And I’d realized he was a Roy, and we stopped talking. And I’d always wanted to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. I lived in Brooklyn, and I was saving it. I was saving it, because I wanted to do it on a date. I was like, this would be so romantic when that happened.

And after this particular Roy, it wasn’t a fancy black dress like Jasmine wore and got ready to go out. But I walked across the bridge and I went to Grimaldi’s Pizza —

anna martin

Yum.

natasha rothwell

— and took myself on the date that I was waiting for this Roy to take me on. You know? And I still worry that the panic is real of just like, I don’t want to meet someone and give up this independent version of myself that I’ve found.

anna martin

You’re strutting across that bridge, you’re eating some pizza, and you’re like, fuck a Roy. Can we have that in the —

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natasha rothwell

Fuck a Roy!

anna martin

Yeah. [LAUGHS]

natasha rothwell

Fuck a Roy.

anna martin

Fuck a Roy.

natasha rothwell

Fuck a Roy all the way. Listen, I was so deliriously happy. I felt like I was breaking rules, you know what I mean? And it felt so empowering to be like, I am not going to put life on hold with the hopes that a Roy will catch up to where I am.

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anna martin

Mm-hmm.

natasha rothwell

And yeah, had me a little pepperoni slice.

anna martin

We got to end the interview there. “Had me a little pepperoni slice.” Natasha Rothwell, thank you so much for this conversation today.

natasha rothwell

Thank you.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

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anna martin

This episode was produced by Emily Lang, with help from Reva Goldberg, Davis Land, and Amy Pearl. It was edited by Gianna Palmer and our executive producer Jen Poyant. Production management by Christina Djossa.

The “Modern Love” theme music is by Dan Powell. Original music in this episode by Elisheba Ittoop, Marion Lozano, Pat McCusker, Roman Niemisto, Aman Sahota, and Carole Sabaro. This episode was mixed by Sonia Herrero, with studio support from Maddy Masiello and Nick Pittman. Special thanks to Mahima Chablani, Nell Gallogly, and Jeffrey Miranda. And to our video team, Brooke Minters, Felice Leone, Dave Mayers, and Eddie Costas.

The “Modern Love” column is edited by Daniel Jones. Miya Lee is the editor of “Modern Love Projects.” If you want to submit an essay or a tiny love story to “The New York Times,” we’ve got the instructions in our show notes.

I’m Anna Martin. Thanks for listening.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

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Where can I throw a party to feel like a kid again?

I have a “big” birthday coming up. It’s the big 70 (gulp!). I’d like to throw myself a party, but one that might seem more fit for a 7-year-old than a 70-year-old (except when it comes to the food). I would like for there to be activities or games such as scavenger hunts, escape rooms, billiards, pinball, karaoke, pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey — you name it. But my friends and I also appreciate gourmet-quality food like the stuff that’s served at Providence, Crustacean and Mélisse. Is there any way to combine all of that into a party for 20-30 people? — Marla Levine

Looking for things to do in L.A.? Ask us your questions and our expert guides will share highly specific recommendations.

Here’s what we suggest:

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Marla, I love that you want to celebrate your milestone birthday in a playful way that sparks your inner child. Who says you can’t run around and play games with your friends just because you’re a “grown-up”?

Similar to you, I prefer fun activities over stuffy, formal parties. I’ve celebrated my birthday at a go-kart racing track and a bowling alley. One year, I hosted an adult field day at the park with sack races, water balloons and snow cones, so I have some fun ideas for you. While many of these spots don’t offer gourmet-level cuisine — unless you consider chicken tenders and fries fancy — I’ve paired them with nearby restaurants that you can walk to. Depending on your vibe, you can do the activity first then walk to dinner, or vice versa.

One of my favorite adult-only barcades in Los Angeles is EightyTwo in the Arts District. Not only is it nestled between an array of bars, shops and restaurants, it is home to more than 50 vintage pinball and arcade machines. They have all of the classics like “Donkey Kong,” “Galaga,” “Mario Bros.,” “Ms. Pac-Man” and “Mortal Kombat.” On certain nights, you can catch live DJ sets as well. For a meal, consider the Michelin-recommended restaurant Manuela, which received a stamp of approval from the late Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold. Tucked inside of the Hauser & Wirth complex, Manuela is a farm-to-table establishment with a variety of modern American bites to choose from. Whatever you do, be sure to order cream biscuits for the table.

An activity that instantly makes me feel like a kid again is singing — OK, more like belting — my favorite song into a microphone while surrounded by loved ones. One of the coolest karaoke spots in L.A. is Break Room 86, a nostalgic speakeasy hidden inside Koreatown’s Line hotel, which has private karaoke rooms, live DJs (and sometimes dancers, including a Michael Jackson impersonator) and an ice cream truck that serves boozy ice cream and Jell-O shots. Times senior food editor Danielle Dorsey says, “Entering the bar feels like you’ve stepped through an ’80s time machine with vintage arcade games, stacks of box TVs with static-fuzzy screens and tape cassettes decorating the walls.” Break Room 86 doesn’t open until 9 p.m., so check out Openaire for a sunset dinner. Led by Michelin-starred chef Josiah Citrin (the same guy behind one of your favorites, Mélisse), the rooftop restaurant offers elevated American fare such as a brick-pressed jidori chicken and grilled branzino — and it’s inside a glorious light-filled greenhouse.

Another spot that would make for an enjoyable birthday celebration is Highland Park Bowl, the oldest functioning bowling alley in L.A. Built in 1927 during the Prohibition era, the venue still has that vintage aesthetic with old pinsetters that serve as chandeliers, a revamped mural from the 1930s and eight refurbished bowling lanes. There’s also a billiards room and a full bar (with a tasty cocktail menu that rotates twice a year). When you get hungry, take a quick walk to Checker Hall, a neighborhood bar and restaurant that serves California-Mediterranean food such as skewers, turkish chicken and chicken schnitzel. Actor-comedian Hannah Pilkes told The Times it’s her “favorite bar in all of L.A.” How she described it: “It has the best cocktails and it almost feels like you’re in New Orleans when you step inside. It has a beautiful patio overlooking Highland Park. The decor is funky and kitschy yet classy; it’s magical.” Afterward, you can take another short walk to Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams for a sweet treat (if you don’t have a cake).

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My colleague Todd Martens, who writes about theme parks and immersive experiences, says it’s difficult to find escape rooms that can accommodate 20 to 30 people, but if you don’t mind splitting up and staggering your start times, check out Hatch Escapes near Koreatown. The venue can accommodate about 10 people at a time. Martens wrote about their room called “the Ladder,” which he describes as a “90-minute interactive movie with puzzles, taking guests through five decades, beginning in the 1950s, in which they will play an exaggerated game of corporate life.” The room “incorporates a wide variety of games, puzzles, as well as film and animation,” he adds. If this theme doesn’t spark your interest, there are three other options, including “Lab Rat,” which can accommodate 12 people.

You sound like a fun person, so I have a feeling that anything you do will be a good time. I hope that these suggestions are helpful in planning your special day. If you end up visiting any of these spots, please send us a photo. We’d love to see it. Happy birthday!

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Photos: How overfishing in Southeast Asia is an ecological and human crisis

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Photos: How overfishing in Southeast Asia is an ecological and human crisis

Various species of sharks — some of which are endangered, while others are listed as vulnerable — are hauled on shore at dawn at the Tanjung Luar port on June 9, 2025, in East Lombok, Indonesia. Tanjung Luar is one of the largest shark markets in Indonesia and Southeast Asia, from where shark fins are exported to other Asian markets — primarily Hong Kong and China — and their bones are used in cosmetic products also sold to China.

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“We were fighting over who had caught more fish, and then I saw my crewmate pushed overboard by the captain,” Akbar Fitrian, 29, an Indonesian crewmember says as he recounts an incident aboard a Chinese-owned fishing vessel in 2022. “The ship then started to drive away as my crewmate tried to swim towards us. And then I don’t know what happened. The captain never reported the incident.”

The seas of Southeast Asia — home to some of the richest in biodiversity in the world — have long been in decline. Since the 1950s, the Center for Strategic and International Studies estimates that 70-95% of fish stocks have been depleted and are at risk of collapse, perpetuated by the rise of industrial-scale fishing, much of which is illegal. Legal overfishing is another factor, and both are propped up by weak regulations, insufficient monitoring and insatiable demand. Approximately half of the world’s global marine fish catch comes from the seas of Southeast Asia, according to the U.N., and it comes at a calamitous cost.

In the United States, approximately 50% of the imported seafood comes from Asia, with nearly $6.3 billion in trade coming from China, Vietnam, Indonesia and India alone, according to the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

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Behind the illicit seafood trade is an opaque world standing at the crossroads of intertwining issues. There is the legacy of brutal human rights violations that have enabled sea slavery to become the norm. Those involved in the efforts of organizations like the international Freedom Fund and Thailand’s Labour Protection Network, which work to end modern-day slavery in the region, say many workers are murdered at sea, abused and often brought into a cycle of debt bondage.

There is the lawless nature of the seas, which has emboldened traffickers to exploit desperate fishermen and impoverished casual laborers. Then there are the geopolitical factors at play: In a race to dominate the seas, China and, to a lesser extent, Vietnam, the Philippines, Taiwan and Malaysia have all built outposts and bases on shoals, reefs and atolls. Fishing fleets — of which China has the largest in the world — are fast becoming more militarized as a result.

All of this has imposed a heavy cost on unique ecosystems and led to devastating socioeconomic impacts on artisanal and small-scale fishers.

Three countries illustrate the intersectional nature of overfishing:

Thailand

Fishing vessels are seen docked together at a landing site in Chumphon, Thailand, on Wednesday, January 22, 2025.

Fishing vessels are seen docked together at a landing site in Chumphon, Thailand, on Jan. 22, 2025.

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“Fish were in abundance before,” says Mimit Hantele, 53, a member of the Urak Lawoi tribe on the island of Koh Lipe in Thailand. “But now, the fishing season is a lot shorter, the variety of fish is far fewer, and I sell less. So I take tourists out on scuba expeditions to earn money.”

For generations, the Urak Lawoi plied the rich waters around them for sustenance. Sea gypsies in a time past, the villagers evolved to rely only on what they could catch and used simple fishing equipment cast from small wooden boats.

Then, in the 1970s, came the big Thai and Malaysian fishing boats. Fishermen on Koh Lipe say the boats fish illegally around the island, appearing only at night to escape detection and in a protected national forest area. The ships use purse seiner nets and demersal trawlers, destroying the coral underneath and, consequently, the habitat for fish. Such overexploitation has led the Indigenous group to turn to tourism to make up for lost income and declining fish stocks. “Fishing is in our blood,” Hantele said, but “our way of life has changed. We can’t rely only on the fish.”

Frozen Spanish mackerel and other species of fish are seen in the cold storage of a facility owned by a Thai family of commercial fishers, in Samut Sakhon, Thailand, on Wednesday, January 15, 2025.

Frozen Spanish mackerel and other species of fish in cold storage in Samut Sakhon, Thailand, on Jan. 15, 2025.

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Fishermen mend nets in Samut Sakhon, Thailand, on Wednesday, January 15, 2025.

Fishermen mend nets in Samut Sakhon, Thailand, on Jan. 15, 2025.

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Small scale artisanal fishermen shake sardines from the nets to gather them en masse, after returning to shore with their catch, in the Gulf of Thailand, off the coast of Prachuab, Thailand, on Monday, January 20, 2025.

Small-scale artisanal fishermen shake sardines from nets to gather them en masse after returning to shore with their catch, in the Gulf of Thailand, off the coast of Prachuap, Thailand, on Jan. 20, 2025.

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According to a 2001 report from the U.N., roughly 80% of fishers in Southeast Asia at the time were small-scale or artisanal, relying on traditional practices. However, declining nearshore fish stocks have forced many artisanal fishers to venture farther from shore in search of commercially valuable species. Added to that are government subsidies for fuel and tax breaks for commercial fishing vessels, which have propped up the seafood industry. Rapid advancement in maritime technology has made fleets far more effective at finding rich hunting grounds while avoiding detection by switching off their monitoring systems.

Oranee Jongkolpath, 30, a veterinarian at Thailand's Marine and Coastal Resources Research and Development Center in Rayong province, prepared to clean a hawksbill turtle with a double amputation in Prasae, Thailand, on Saturday, January 18, 2025. The injured hawksbill turtle was found by fishermen in a garbage patch, and was likely entangled in ghost nets - fishing nets lost or discarded by fishermen - causing severe damage to its two front flippers.

Oranee Jongkolpath, 30, a veterinarian at Thailand’s Department of Marine and Coastal Resources’ research and development center in the Rayong province, prepares to clean a hawksbill turtle in Prasae, Thailand, on Jan. 18, 2025. The turtle was found by fishermen in a garbage patch and was likely entangled in ghost nets — fishing nets that are lost or discarded by fishermen — that had caused severe damage to its two front flippers.

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A seafood merchant displayed dried seahorses for sale, at a landing site in Chumphon, Thailand, on Wednesday, January 22, 2025. Dozens of countries around the world are involved in the dried seahorse trade, with Thailand, the Philippines, Vietnam, and India being the largest exporters. As the trade of seahorses, typically used for traditional medicines, has sharply increased, the seahorse catch has declined over time. Seahorses are a protected species and are listed on the CITES Appendix II.

A seafood merchant displays dried seahorses for sale in Chumphon, Thailand, on Jan. 22, 2025. Dozens of countries around the world are involved in the dried seahorse trade, with Thailand, the Philippines, Vietnam and India being the largest exporters. As the trade of seahorses, which are typically used for traditional medicines, has sharply increased, the seahorse catch has declined over time. Seahorses are among the species protected under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora.

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Lax regulations on the most destructive types of fishing, particularly demersal trawling and cyanide fishing, the capture of juvenile fish that prevents the replenishment of stocks, the poor oversight of labor laws and the exploitation of workers desperate to earn a living have all contributed to the devastating knock-on effects for communities along coastlines and the potentially irreversible environmental consequences.

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Members of a crew working on a Thai fishing vessel, who are mostly from Myanmar, prepared to show their documents to Port In Port Out inspectors after returning to shore to ensure all members were present, at a landing site in Chumphon, Thailand, on Wednesday, January 22, 2025. Port In Port Out (PIPO) inspection centers were set up in 2018 following an outcry in the international community over Thailand’s gross human rights abuses in its fishing industry. The purpose of PIPO inspectors is to monitor Thai fishing vessels, in order to curb exploitation of workers and migrant laborers by doing crew check lists, welfare checks, investigating their working conditions, which includes human trafficking and forced labor indicators. Some rights advocacy groups who have investigated the workings of PIPO have criticized their effectiveness in combating substandard work conditions, which have led to the deaths and injuries of several migrant fishermen.

Members of a crew working on a Thai fishing vessel, most of whom are from Myanmar, prepare to show their documents to Port In Port Out (PIPO) inspectors in Chumphon, Thailand, on Jan. 22, 2025. PIPO inspection centers were set up in 2018, following an outcry in the international community over Thailand’s gross human rights abuses in its fishing industry.

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A Burmese dock worker sorted different fish species after a catch from a Thai vessel was unloaded at a landing site in Ranong, Thailand, on Thursday, January 23, 2025.

A Burmese dock worker sorts fish after a catch from a Thai vessel was unloaded in Ranong, Thailand, on Jan. 23, 2025.

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In Thailand last year, artisanal fishermen held protests over the rollback of major fisheries reforms implemented a decade ago that had helped to rebuild fish stocks in Thai waters. Thai corporations, which own a significant share of commercial fishing vessels, pushed the government to deregulate the fishing industry to increase their profits. Protestors focused on their concerns that relaxing the rules would revive illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing and lead to increased overfishing. The rollbacks, they argued, would reduce transparency and accountability across the industry and reduce checks on gear and labor. Less transparency would lead to less knowledge about what is left in the sea. In turn, sustainability decreases, hurting artisanal fishers who depend on the sea for sustenance and livelihoods.

The Philippines

Filipino fishermen unload catches of Yellowfin tuna, Bigeye tuna, and Blue Marlin, after being at sea for approximately one month, at General Santos fish port, the Philippines, on Wednesday, May 21, 2025. General Santos is known as the Philippines’ tuna capital and hub for tuna fishing and exports of the products. The city hosts numerous processing facilities where the fish, primarily tuna, is packaged or canned for sale to the Filipino market and for export worldwide.

Filipino fishermen unload Yellowfin tuna, Bigeye tuna and blue marlin at a fish port in General Santos, the Philippines, on May 21, 2025.

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The first time Donald Carmen was harassed by Chinese boats off the coast of Palawan was in December 2024. The following February, they harassed him and another fisherman again, getting close enough to hit their outriggers. “They forced us to move away and recorded us with cell phones and cameras. I have been fishing in this area since 2016, and back then, everyone was free to fish. I would catch 400-500 kilograms of fish in a night, about 60 nautical miles offshore. Now, because I don’t dare venture out as far, I’m lucky if I catch 200-300 kilograms over three days,” Carmen said as he steered his banca just weeks later, on the lookout for Chinese fishing boats and militia.

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A drone image of the shoreline in Rizal, Palawan, the Philippines on Wednesday, May 28, 2025. Many fishermen here have lost more than half their incomes because of harassment by Chinese ships, limiting the distances they can go out to sea to fish for specific species. Many filipino commercial and small-scale fishers are being chased or hassled by Chinese Coast Guard, Navy, and militia ships while out at sea. Previously, attacks or harassment in this area did not exist, but was well-documented in other areas. Since August 2024, incidences of harassment have started and increased since. Many Filipino fishermen believe that the Chinese are now moving to build outposts in the nearby Sabina Shoal to dominate both trade routes and the fishing industry. For many fishermen, it means losing half or more of their income, forcing many to quit or to turn to agriculture on land to make up for the shortfall.

A drone shot of the shoreline in Rizal, Palawan, the Philippines, on May 28, 2025. Many fishermen here have lost more than half their incomes because of harassment by Chinese ships, limiting the distances they can go out to sea to fish for specific species.

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Fisherman Vincent Gehisan, 36, seen at home with his family members in Quezon, Palawan, the Philippines, on Saturday, May 24, 2025. Vincent was hassled and detained for nearly a day at sea by Chinese Coast Guard and Navy ships while out on a resupply mission the year before, and is now afraid to venture far from the Filipino shore to fish.

Vincent Gehisan, 36, enjoys a meal at his home in Quezon, Palawan, the Philippines, on May 24, 2025. Gehisan was hassled and detained for nearly a day at sea by Chinese Coast Guard and navy ships while out on a resupply mission the year before and now says he’s afraid to venture far from Filipino shores to fish.

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People sang karaoke at a local bar whose clientele are mainly fishermen on their days off, near the main fish port complex in General Santos, the Philippines, on Wednesday, May 21, 2025. Areas around fish ports are usually filled with small restaurants, bars, karaoke and pool cafes, and brothels, catered towards the fishermen who come back on shore for a short break. General Santos is known as the Philippines’ tuna capital and hub for tuna fishing and exports of the products. The city hosts numerous processing facilities where the fish, primarily tuna, is packaged or canned for sale to the Filipino market and for export worldwide.

People sing karaoke on May 21, 2025, at a local bar near the main fish port complex in General Santos, the Philippines, where the clientele are mainly fishermen on their days off.

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Illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing is inextricably linked to the geopolitical struggle for maritime dominance in the South China Sea. Over the past two decades, China has rapidly scaled up its fishing militias in a race to assert control over a vast area while trying to meet the country’s insatiable demand for seafood. Vietnam, the Philippines, Malaysia and Taiwan have followed suit on a much smaller scale.

The South China Sea — or the East Sea, as Vietnam calls it, and the West Philippine Sea, as it’s known in the Philippines — is one of the world’s most strategic waterways. China’s use of its fishing fleet to control trade routes and dominate territory to create maritime buffer zones threatens the food security and livelihoods of fishers in the region.

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Family members of Filipino fishermen placed bait on fishing lines ready to be used, in Quezon, Palawan, the Philippines, on Saturday, May 24, 2025.

Family members of Filipino fishermen place bait on fishing lines in Quezon, Palawan, the Philippines, on May 24, 2025.

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Filipino small-scale fishermen unloaded their catch of the day at General Santos fish port, the Philippines, on Thursday, May 22, 2025. General Santos is known as the Philippines’ tuna capital and hub for tuna fishing and exports of the products. The city hosts numerous processing facilities where the fish, primarily tuna, is packaged or canned for sale to the Filipino market and for export worldwide.

Small-scale Filipino fishermen unload their catch a fish port in General Santos, the Philippines, on May 22, 2025. The city is known as the Philippines’ tuna capital and hub for tuna fishing and products exports.

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While Chinese aggression has persisted for years in areas off Zambales, a province of the Philippines, it has only recently affected waters off the coast of Rizal in Palawan, as China is believed to be building up its presence in the Sabina and Bombay shoals, much closer to the Filipino coast — encroaching on the Philippines’ claim to the Kalayaan Island Group — from its original areas of claim like the Spratly Islands and the Scarborough Shoal. Among some of the tactics used by Chinese fishing militias to deter fishermen are water cannons, using swarming and encircling techniques, military-grade lasers and ramming fishing boats to intimidate and drive them from fishing grounds.

As countries in the region militarize their fishing fleets, the cost will ultimately be detrimental to ecological sustainability and geopolitical stability.

Indonesia

Indonesian fishermen unloaded various types of species including sharks and wedgefish, which are one of the most threatened species, in Tegal, Indonesia, on Friday, June 13, 2025.

Indonesian fishermen unload various species, including sharks and wedgefish, which are one of the most threatened, in Tegal, Indonesia, on June 13, 2025.

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In Indonesia, poverty, lack of opportunities and desperation have pushed thousands of Indonesian men into trafficking circles, while others are lured by the promises of a well-paid job in the construction or service industries before being put aboard a fishing vessel unbeknownst to them. Patima Tungpuchayakul, the founder of Thailand’s Labour Protection Network, says hundreds of fishermen go missing from commercial vessels each year, and many more are brutalized while facing appalling conditions and inhumane, unsanitary conditions on board, often at the mercy of the captain or the ship’s owners.

Labor rights activists at the Migrant Resource Center in Pemalang, Indonesia, fishermen and a widow of a woman still fighting for compensation after her husband’s death say agencies in central Java are adept at recruiting Indonesian crew to work primarily on Chinese fishing vessels, entrapping them in a cycle of debt bondage and, in many cases, effectively enslaving them at sea. Workers are not offered compensation for death or injuries unless they or their families were aware of what kind of insurance the vessel owner had for them. In the worst circumstances, they face brutal working conditions and 16- to 22-hour workdays and are often subject to physical violence.

Fish mongers gathered to sell the catch brought in at dawn by local fishermen at the Tanjung Luar port on Monday, June 9, 2025, in East Lombok, Indonesia.

Fishmongers gather to sell the catch brought in at dawn by fishermen at the Tanjung Luar port on June 9, 2025, in East Lombok, Indonesia.

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A drone image showing the largest commercial fish port in Indonesia, Muara Angke, where hundreds of commercial fishing vessels are docked, in Jakarta, Indonesia, on Sunday, June 15, 2025.

A drone image of the largest commercial fish port in Indonesia, Muara Angke, where hundreds of commercial fishing vessels are docked, in Jakarta, Indonesia, on June 15, 2025.

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Tofa S, 29, a fisherman who recounted his stories of working on a Chinese-owned commercial fishing vessel, posed for a photo in Pemalang, Indonesia, on Friday, June 13, 2025. Both Tegal and Pemalang are known as hubs for recruiting laborers who then work on commercial fishing vessels for Chinese, Taiwanese, and Korean companies.

A fisherman poses for a photo in Pemalang, Indonesia, on June 13, 2025. Both Tegal and Pemalang are known as hubs for recruiting laborers who then work on commercial fishing vessels for Chinese, Taiwanese and Korean companies.

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Southeast Asia is still a hub for slave labor, primarily in Thailand and Indonesia, where the seafood trade contributes much of the tuna, shrimp and trash fish used for fishmeal to the supply chains of major retailers and pet food brands in the U.S. and Europe.

“There is now less physical violence and coercion — but coercion is now more debt-based,” says Rosia Wongsuban, a program advisor at the Freedom Fund, a nonprofit working to end modern-day slavery. “Working conditions are the same. Because of a labor shortage, there aren’t enough workers to operate on vessels, and then the crew needs to take the extra burden.”

“In order to work on the fishing vessel, which was Chinese-owned, I was given a loan of 4 million Rupiah,” Akbar Fitrian, 29, a fisherman interviewed in Jakarta, explains. “1 million went to paying for fishing equipment, and then I had to work until I paid back the other 3 million. Sometimes, I had to keep borrowing more to continue working to pay off the initial loan. Sometimes I would only end up with enough salary to buy cigarettes. Sometimes I went into the red.”

Anis Khuprotin, 28, at the gravesite of her husband, Muhammed Nur, in Tegal, Indonesia, on Friday, June 13, 2025. Anis’s husband died on board a commercial fishing vessel after a piece of equipment came loose and struck him in the head. Staff members from the recruiting agency which hired her husband, told her he had died of a heart attack instead of admitting the truth, in an attempt to avoid paying insurance fees to the family. Anis found the truth out after a crew member, who was a friend of Muhammed’s, sent a video of him bleeding from head and nose, but still alive, and explained that the captain refused to radio the water police to send a helicopter to evacuate him. By the time the ship reached shore, it was too late to save Muhammed.

Anis Khuprotin, 28, rests her head on the gravesite of her husband, Muhamad Nur, in Tegal, Indonesia, on June 13, 2025. Anis’ husband died on board a commercial fishing vessel after a piece of equipment came loose and struck him in the head. Staff from the recruiting agency the hired her husband told her he died of a heart attack instead of admitting the truth in an attempt to avoid paying insurance fees to the family.

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Indra, 28, who declined to provide his last name, dressed as a clown and played music in his neighborhood to earn some extra money, in Jakarta, Indonesia, on Saturday, June 14, 2025. Indra, who previously worked on a commercial fishing vessel, recounted harrowing experiences out at sea where he witnessed abuses of his fellow cremates. Since returning home, Indra has refused to sign up for another job on a commercial fishing vessel, but has limited opportunities owing to the lack of a school degree. He is currently working in a warehouse packing boxes, and dresses as a clown in his neighborhood to earn income.

Indra, 28, who declined to provide his last name out of fear for his safety, dresses as a clown and plays music to earn some extra money in his neighborhood in Jakarta, Indonesia, on June 14, 2025. Indra, who previously worked on a commercial fishing vessel, recounted harrowing experiences at sea, where he said he witnessed abuses of his fellow cremates. Since returning home, he’s refused to sign up for another job on a commercial fishing vessel, but says he has limited opportunities owing to the lack of a school degree. He currently works in a warehouse, packing boxes, and dresses as a clown to earn extra income.

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Local fishermen played a card game on Maringkik Island on Tuesday, June 10, 2025, in East Lombok, Indonesia. Many locals are fishermen working on their own small-scale boats or work on commercial ships fishing for sharks between the Indonesian and Australian waters, bringing their catch to the nearby port of Tanjung Luar. Tanjung Luar one of the largest shark markets in Indonesia and Southeast Asia, from where shark fins are exported to other Asian markets, primarily Hong Kong and China, was bones are used in cosmetic products also sold to China. Shark meat and skins are consumed locally as an important source of protein. In recent years, facing heavy criticism because of the unregulated shark fishing industry, the Indonesian government has sought to bring in stricter controls over commercial hunting of sharks in an attempt to balance the needs of fishermen as well as the need to protect dwindling shark populations.

Fishermen play a card game on June 10, 2025, on Maringkik Island, off the caost of East Lombok, Indonesia.

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For the nearly 10 million people who rely on these fisheries for their livelihoods and source of protein, the future of Southeast Asia’s fisheries hangs in the balance, at the mercy of consumer demand and political will to enforce laws. The region faces not just ecological collapse, but deepening poverty, food insecurity and social instability if illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing continues unchecked. Overfishing occurs because high demand and global overconsumption for seafood far exceed the ocean’s ability to replenish itself. Growing markets — especially in China, the European Union and North America — have transformed fish and fish products into a highly profitable global commodity. Exports from Southeast Asia alone amount to over $5 billion worth of fish products to the United States each year, illustrating the scale of international trade. This demand fuels industrial-scale fishing operations such as bottom trawlers and purse seiners, which sweep through vast areas of ocean indiscriminately. Supported by government subsidies, these fleets prioritize maximum yield, even when fish stocks are already severely depleted.

But decline is not inevitable. With stronger regional cooperation, transparent supply chains, corporate accountability and informed consumer choices, Southeast Asia can reclaim stewardship over its waters. The survival of its fisheries — and of the communities that depend on them — hinges on decisions being made now, far from shore.

Various species of sharks, some of which are endangered, while others are listed as vulnerable, hauled on shore at dawn by commercial fishermen at the Tanjung Luar port on Tuesday, June 10, 2025, in East Lombok, Indonesia. Tanjung Luar is one of the largest shark markets in Indonesia and Southeast Asia, from where shark fins are exported to other Asian markets, primarily Hong Kong and China, was bones are used in cosmetic products also sold to China.

Various species of sharks — some of which are endangered while others are listed as vulnerable — are hauled on shore at dawn by commercial fishermen at the Tanjung Luar port on June 10, 2025, in East Lombok, Indonesia.

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This body of work, based on a nine-month-long investigation supported by the Fondation Carmignac, is on exhibit at the Bronx Documentary Center through April 26.

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Nicole Tung is a photojournalist working primarily in the Middle East and Asia. You can see more of her work on her website, NicoleTung.com, or on Instagram, at @nicoletung.

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