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Forget Erewhon, this local grocery chain has the best water selection in L.A.

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Forget Erewhon, this local grocery chain has the best water selection in L.A.

I’ve just discovered a secret oasis in the sparkling water aisle at a local grocery store in Little Armenia. I’ve driven past this location many times but never paid it any notice. By my side is Martin Riese, a certified water sommelier. He’s pointing to bottles from international brands I’ve never heard of. Riese highlights some noteworthy selections: Ararat (from Armenia), Gerolsteiner (from Germany), Jermuk Borjomi (from Georgia) and Tehuacan (from Mexico), which he’s never seen before — a rarity for the H20 obsessive.

The Big Wet Guide to Water

In L.A., water rules everything around us. Drink up, cool off and dive into our stories about hydrating and recreating in the city.

No, we are not at Erewhon, Lassen’s or any other upscale, trendy market. Rather, we are standing inside a Jons Fresh Marketplace, a family-owned L.A. grocery chain. According to Riese, it’s the best place to buy rare, affordable drinking water in L.A. In addition to general market waters like Crystal Geyser and Arrowhead, the store offers more than a dozen water brands from at least eight countries.

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Riese should know where to buy the best water. He created his first “water menu” in Berlin in 2005 and has been certified as a water sommelier by the German Water Trade Assn. since 2011. His days are spent consulting for beverage brands, educating people about water via his popular TikTok and holding monthly Zoom water tastings that cost $105, which includes the cost of water and participation for up to four people. German-born, he came to the United States in 2011 but didn’t discover Jons until he moved to Van Nuys in 2022 and found one right next to his house.

A hand holding up a Polar water bottle and pointing to the label.

Water sommelier Martin Riese points out the absurdity of “Naturally Calorie-Free” labeling on a bottle of water.

A closeup of a man drinking out of a small red Solo cup.

Riese tastes a sample of mineral water purchased from Jons.

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“I want to bring awareness to people that there’s other options than the regular stuff you can find literally in Pavilions or Ralphs,” Riese says. “They always have the same brands. I walked in [to Jons] and I could not believe you can actually buy this great portfolio in a store.”

Jons was founded in 1977 by John and Jack Berberian, Armenian immigrants, with Los Angeles’ vast foreign population in mind.

“They were committed to helping other recent immigrants adjust to their new lives by making some of the food and ingredients that were familiar to them [available],” says Dave Harriman, the director of retail nonperishable departments. The company has long claimed that Jons was the first L.A. grocery store to offer international foods.

Bottles of Armenian sparkling water brand Ararat at Jons.

Armenian sparkling water brand Ararat at Jons..

This merchandising approach extends to the water selection, specifically the sparkling aisle. Most “bottled waters” available in American grocery stores are simply filtered tap water, essentially what you could make at home with your Brita, according to Riese. To sommeliers like him, spring or mineral waters are preferable because they come from a natural source; they are rich in calcium, magnesium and sodium. Depending on the water, there are different levels of each, changing not just its taste but its health benefits. Unlike most American waters, European water labels that Jons carries detail each of their product’s exact mineral composition on the bottle.

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Riese explains that in Germany, there are more than 60 water brands so packed with minerals that they go beyond simple hydration and are considered a form of medication by the German Federal Office of Consumer Protection and Food Safety.

“This is a state-approved medication, but it’s nothing else than bottled water,” he said. “So for example, a Gerolsteiner — which you can find at Jons — has the same amount of calcium as a glass of milk.”

Other highlights among Jons aisles are Borjomi, a Georgian seltzer that’s available in L.A. only at international grocery stores like Jons and Super King. Romano Chobanu, a sales manager for the water brand, calls it a “unique water,” with a “specific taste, which is different than other mineral waters like Italian.” It’s high in sodium and is used as a hangover cure in Eastern Europe: “After you’re having your party or something, you drink Borjomi,” he said. (A strategy Riese endorses.)

An overhead view of a shopping cart, holding products including butter, veggies and bottles of Coca-Cola and Jermuk water.

A Jons customer said he drank Jermuk mineral water in Armenia.

A man pouring water into tiny red Solo cups in the parking lot of a grocery store.

Water sommelier Martin Riese sets up a water taste comparison of several brands of mineral water available at Jons.

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For a little over $10, Martin and I purchase five waters for an impromptu taste tasting on an electrical box out front, using tiny red Solo cups typically used for shots of alcohol. Riese arranges them from lowest mineral content to highest, starting with Poland Springs, then Ararat, followed by Gerolsteiner, Borjomi and Jermuk (also from Armenia). As we move from right to left, the tasting notes grow more complex, and the saltiness intensifies. As I connect with my own inner water sommelier, I identify Borjomi, the aforementioned hangover aide, as my favorite, and find Poland Springs to taste revolting in comparison to the others.

Riese comments colorfully, as a wine sommelier would detail the notes of a Pinot Grigio, suggesting certain waters pair best with certain foods. “Your food will taste differently just based on the water,” he says, offering that Saratoga (from New York), also available at Jons, pairs great with sushi because of its low mineral content.

The best part is, all of this was far more affordable than a wine tasting — or even what you’d find at other high-end grocery stores.

“I feel sometimes that Americans love to get fooled,” Riese says, with the caveat that he loves America. “I don’t know what it is. But they love thinking always when something is more expensive, it’s immediately a better product. And that is absolutely not true. Especially when it comes to water.”

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Smithsonian chief emphasizes ‘accuracy and integrity’ after White House report

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Smithsonian chief emphasizes ‘accuracy and integrity’ after White House report

Lonnie Bunch III is the 14th Secretary of the Smithsonian. He’s pictured above in September 2017.

J. Scott Applewhite/AP


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J. Scott Applewhite/AP

In a memo addressed to staffers sent Tuesday, the secretary of the Smithsonian, Lonnie G. Bunch III, defended the institution after the White House issued a 162-page report that characterizes the National Museum of American History as a place which has become “subject to institutional capture by a radical, activist ideology that is fundamentally opposed to telling the noble, honest story of the great country we know and love.”

In his email, which NPR has obtained, Bunch wrote in part: “While there will always be room for improvement, this report is not a fair characterization of the work and totality of the National Museum of American History. At the Smithsonian, our work is driven by scholarship, accuracy and an uncompromising commitment to tell the fullness of America’s story. As public servants and the keepers of this institution, we are charged with helping a nation find understanding, hope and clarity and as part of that duty, we are dedicated to excellence, reflection and growth.”

He continued: “We remain focused on what grounds us: a steadfast commitment to scholarship, nonpartisanship, independence, accuracy and integrity. For nearly 180 years, the Smithsonian has worked alongside partners across government — from the White House to Congress to our governing Board of Regents — guided by our enduring mission to increase and diffuse knowledge. That purpose remains: to pursue knowledge with rigor and to serve the American public with clarity and care.”

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The White House report was issued on July 4 by the Domestic Policy Council under the title “Saving America’s Story: How Ideological Capture at the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of American History Erases Our Heritage.”

The council faults the National Museum of American History on a multitude of fronts, saying it underemphasized the Founding Fathers and early colonial and Revolutionary history; was not sufficiently celebratory of the country’s 250th anniversary; and that it engaged in “anti-white,” “illegal alien” and transgender activism.

It also accuses the museum of trying to “indoctrinate” teachers and students through its exhibitions, programming and teaching resources.

In the report, the council also specifically criticizes museum director Anthea Hartig, who has led the National Museum of American History since 2019 and is concurrently the president of the Organization of American Historians, calling her “an activist advancing an ideological agenda contradictory to the museum’s founding purpose of fostering patriotism.”

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After her son’s death, she found a new purpose. ‘He’s whispering: Mom, this is your path’

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After her son’s death, she found a new purpose. ‘He’s whispering: Mom, this is your path’

It was after the death of her son, Laith, that Esme Saleh decided to become a folk artist.

She had always been creative, experimenting with watercolors and learning to sew and embroider at a young age.

“I had a creative inkling,” she said, “but I never pursued it.”

Everything changed on Aug. 17, 2013.

In this series, we highlight independent makers and artists, from glassblowers to fiber artists, who are creating original products in and around Los Angeles.

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When Saleh was nine months pregnant, she woke up with stomach pains and presumed she was in labor. She and her husband, Nasim, immediately went to the hospital, where doctors checked her and put the baby on a heart monitor. Saleh’s blood pressure was high, however, and the baby’s heart rate kept dropping. After about an hour, his heartbeat stopped. Doctors rushed her in for an emergency C-section, but it was too late. Laith did not survive.

Saleh lost a tremendous amount of blood and developed postpartum HELLP syndrome, a dangerous form of preeclampsia, but doctors were able to stabilize her.

When she woke up, the first thing she asked was, “How’s my baby?”

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Esme Saleh sits with her dogs at home

After losing her son in 2013, Esme Saleh left her job as a television producer. Since then, she has sold her hand-painted candles to local designers in Los Angeles and to LVMH in Paris.

“Aug. 17, 2013, was the most difficult day of my life, and Aug. 22 was the second most difficult, the day we drove home with an empty car seat,” she said of her and her husband’s new reality.

They named their son Laith Finn Saleh.

“His first name means ‘lion’ in Arabic. His middle name is an ode to Huckleberry Finn — sharp wit, kind heart, strong moral compass — all the attributes he’s imparted on us in spirit,” said Saleh, 45.

After such a devastating loss, she found it difficult to trust the world again. “It was hard to trust anything,” she said. “The medical system. Myself. It made me realize the fragility of bringing anything to life. We take so much for granted.”

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So after years of working as a television producer, Saleh left broadcast journalism and leaned into her creative spirit.

She grew up in San Diego. Her mother was raised on a farm in Mexico, and her father moved from Tijuana to Los Angeles to be near her mother, who started working for a family in Sherman Oaks at 16. They eventually settled in San Diego, where Saleh’s father, now a church deacon, worked as a car salesman.

TORRANCE, CA - June 24, 2026: Candles dry at Esme Saleh's home in Torrance on Wednesday, June 24, 2026. (Christina House / Los Angeles Times)
TORRANCE, CA - June 24, 2026: Esme Saleh paints candles at her home in Torrance on Wednesday, June 24, 2026. (Christina House / Los Angeles Times)
Esme Saleh paints a candle in her dining room

“The word Mystic has also become a driving force of what this journey means to me,” Saleh says. “A magical, otherworldly journey that has led me to some beautiful friendships, projects and unlimited well of curiosity. When I paint each pair of candles, it feels like I’m imparting a piece of that magic.”

“He always wanted to be a weatherman on TV,” she said, explaining how he hoped to get his big break on television by doing a weather report from the car lot.

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Saleh wanted to be a broadcast journalist as her father had. After graduating from San Diego State, she interned in the sports department at CBS affiliate KFMB-TV although she didn’t know much about sports. She enjoyed sharing information with people, learned how to write plays of the week and felt she had found the right career.

But during a summer class at Mesa College, she started to think journalism might not be for her.

Paintings on a wall above a dresser with artwork.
Candles and flowers decorate the mantle at Esme Saleh's home.

Saleh’s home is filled with her artwork. “My home expresses a lot of the things that I do,” she says. “If it works here, then I feel like I can put it out in the world.”

“I’m an empath — a sensitive soul — so when I was reading news about death and destruction, my eyes could not lie,” she said. Her professor told her, “This may not be your thing.” But when she arranged flowers on camera, she really came alive. She decided to work behind the scenes as a producer.

Her professor helped her get her first network news job in 2003, and she moved to Los Angeles, working on hard news and entertainment coverage.

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After losing Laith a decade later, she couldn’t keep doing red-carpet interviews and acting like everything was fine. “It all felt so different, superficial and hard,” she said. “I felt like there was a bigger purpose out there for me. It’s in the small things that we find the big things.”

She started by painting folk art-inspired invitations for a friend’s baby shower. She painted delicate flowers, oranges and leaves on glass, leather and even lampshades. She created a logo. “I was just trying to say yes to things that were really scary,” she said. “Laith gave me the courage to do that.”

Esme Saleh is reflected in a mirror at her home above candles.

“I was just trying to get out of hole,” Saleh says of taking up painting after her son died.

Her first son, she said, became “a catalyst for painting.”

Then, at the first Thanksgiving during the COVID-19 pandemic when people could gather again, she had a light-bulb moment. “I was setting the table and didn’t have flowers or anything to add to decorate, so I thought, ‘I have these candles. I’m going to paint them and make them fancy,’ ” she said.

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Her guests were impressed.

As time went on, painting taper candles helped her find joy again, and others noticed too.

“The one thing I hear when people pick up a pair of my candles is, ‘This makes me so happy. It makes me feel like there’s life here,’ ” she said.

1 A lampshade painted by Esme Saleh.

2 Leather napkin rings Saleh has painted for Nathan Turner.

3 floral prainted taper candles

1. Saleh sometimes leads painting workshops where participants can decorate items like ornaments and lampshades.
2. Leather napkin rings Saleh has painted for Nathan Turner. 3. Saleh’s hand-painted candles retail for approximately $42 to $50.

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One of the hardest parts of losing a child “is that you’re not just grieving the person, you’re grieving the future you imagined with them,” said Chicago-based grief specialist Carla Harvey. “A lifetime of love suddenly has nowhere to go. Creating art doesn’t erase grief, but it can become a way to carry it.”

Saleh created her brand Mystic by Esme in 2021, but it took her some time before she could gather the courage to try to sell them.

When she brought a shoebox full of samples to Nickey Kehoe, the L.A. store agreed to carry her candles. “I was beside myself,” Saleh said.

“Her candles were absolutely beautiful, and she had a fantastic spirit that made selling them a no-brainer,” said interior designer Todd Nickey, co-founder of Nickey Kehoe.

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Saleh gets a surprise kiss from her dog while painting candles in her dining room.

Saleh gets a surprise kiss from her dog Olive while painting candles at her dining room table.

Saleh viewed her new side project as a way to earn extra money for piano lessons for her 11-year-old son Linus, who is an entrepreneur like his mother. “I felt proud painting the candles while he was in lessons in the next room,” she said. “It became this circular economy, and it led to bigger opportunities for me.”

Last year, luxury conglomerate LVMH commissioned Saleh to paint 465 pairs of candles, or 930 candles in total, for its Chaumet jewelry brand. The collection was unveiled at an elaborate event at the Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay, just outside Paris.

“It was fun,” Saleh said about the process, which took six months from conception to delivery. “I felt like I was dressing my candles up for a party.”

Always a hard worker, which she attributes to being a first-generation child of immigrant parents, Saleh has now created a candle collection for Pierce and Ward in Los Feliz, leather napkin holders for interior designer Nathan Turner and pomegranate wrapping paper for Olive Ateliers. The candles retail between $42 to $50 for a pair, and recently, she developed a handsome pewter candle shaver that will be released in the winter.

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Saleh paints candles at her home.

Her dining room can sometimes feel like “an assembly line,” Saleh says.

Esme Saleh holds a pair of candles she has painted with florals.

Saleh holds a pair of candles she has embellished with florals.

Occasionally, she leads painting workshops, and she loves helping others tap into their creativity. The most meaningful one for her was an ornament workshop attended by several victims of the 2025 Los Angeles wildfires. “Without saying anything, we understood each other,” she said. “I understood that they were trying to create memories.”

Saleh knows what it means for things not to last — “impermanence,” she calls it — whether it is homes, candles or life itself.

She paints every day in the art-filled dining room of her home (unless it’s Little League season), surrounded by her family, candles and her two dogs, Lennon and Olive. ”Painting is like meditation,” she said. “You can sit in your dining room and tune everything out and just be in the moment.”

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A summer wish list tacked to the wall.

Even the family’s summer bucket list receives an artistic flourish.

White flowers painted on a yellow arch inside Esme Saleh's home.

An arch inside Saleh’s home receives a personalized touch.

She knows painting candles isn’t new, but she believes her motivation and the care she puts into each candle makes them special beyond their looks.

She has learned to look at the world that way, that painting in her dining room has offered her healing and joy, that she can trust herself and her body, that continuing to be inspired by her two boys — “one in spirit and the other here on Earth” — means that Laith will always be with her.

Many people think healing means moving on, said grief specialist Harvey, but “it’s really about finding ways to move forward while keeping the people we love woven into our lives. That’s what I see in her candles, not an ending, but an ongoing relationship with her son.”

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“I feel like my son is channeling through this medium,” Saleh said, her voice breaking as she painted a taper. “He’s whispering to me, ‘Mom, this is your path.’ That has been my driving force. We’re going to grow this together.”

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Terry Tempest Williams on why women with big ideas get labeled ‘crazy’ : Wild Card with Rachel Martin

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Terry Tempest Williams on why women with big ideas get labeled ‘crazy’  : Wild Card with Rachel Martin

A note from Wild Card host Rachel Martin: I met Terry Tempest Williams about 25 years ago at a writer’s conference in Yosemite Valley. I was a young reporter who was there to do a story about how literature was addressing climate change and she made such a huge impression on me. I had never heard someone talk about the natural world the way Terry did and she had a spiritual depth I hadn’t encountered in my life at that point.

To this day, Terry’s writing always reorients me towards what is good, what is beautiful, and what is true. Her newest book is called “The Glorians.”

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