Connect with us

Lifestyle

And the Oscar goes to — wait, why is it called an Oscar?

Published

on

An Oscar statue appears outside the Dolby Theatre ahead of the 2015 ceremony. But who is he really?

An Oscar statue appears outside the Dolby Theatre ahead of the 2015 ceremony. But who is he really?

Matt Sayles/Invision/AP


hide caption

toggle caption

Matt Sayles/Invision/AP

Advertisement

Sunday is the 98th Academy Awards, where many of Hollywood’s top talents will walk the red carpet before settling in for a night of triumphs, heartbreaks and abruptly cut-off acceptance speeches.

Most of us just refer to the ceremony as “the Oscars,” the longstanding nickname of the gold-plated statuettes that winners in each category take home.

Cedric Gibbons, the art director of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, is credited with designing the iconic statue ahead of the first annual awards banquet of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences (aka “the Academy”) in 1929.

He dreamed up the knight (possibly modeled on a Mexican actor of the era) standing on a reel of film, holding a crusader’s sword to defend the industry from outside criticism. And Los Angeles-based sculptor George Stanley made the statuette a reality, one that stands 13 1/2 inches tall and weighs 8 1/2 pounds.

Advertisement

Its full legal name is the “Academy Award of Merit.” The Academy officially adopted its nickname, Oscar, in 1939.

But where did it come from?

Bruce Davis got that question all the time — in letters and emails from the curious public — during his two-decade tenure as the Academy’s executive director, which ended in 2011.

“And what astonished me was that when I would ask around the building, everybody would say, ‘Well, we don’t exactly know,’” he told NPR. “And so I didn’t do anything about it myself until I was retiring.”

Davis decided to use his newfound free time to compile a history of the institution, ultimately publishing The Academy and the Award in 2022. One of the questions it explores is the origin of the Oscar nickname.

Advertisement

“As it turned out, that was not an easy thing to find out,” Davis said. “It took a lot of running around and doing some actual research, and I did finally come up with something that I’m reasonably confident is the right answer.”

There are three enduring — and competing — myths about where the name came from. Davis debunked them all and proposed a fourth.

Workers set up an Oscar statue in the red carpet area before the 2025 Oscar awards.

Workers set up an Oscar statue in the red carpet area before the 2025 Oscar awards.

Jae C. Hong/AP


hide caption

Advertisement

toggle caption

Jae C. Hong/AP

The debunked claims 

“Oscar” made its first mainstream newspaper appearance as shorthand for an Academy Award in March 1934, when entertainment journalist Sidney Skolsky used it in his Hollywood gossip column.

Davis recounts the apocryphal legend this way: Skolsky was running up against deadline on his awards-night rough draft when he was stopped by the word “statuette.”

Advertisement

“He thought it sounded awfully snobby and he didn’t know how to spell it,” he said. “And he asked a couple of people around in the hall, and I guess no one was helping him spell statuette.”

Skolsky later said he thought back to a vaudeville routine where the master of ceremonies would tease an orchestra member by asking, “Oscar, will you have a cigar?” And he claimed he decided to poke fun at the ceremony’s pretentiousness by referring to the statuettes as Oscars instead.

Davis sees a few holes in this story, namely that the term appeared in at least one industry publication months before Skolsky’s column. But it’s not a total loss for Skolsky, who is separately credited with coining or at least popularizing the term “beefcake.”

Bette Davis and her first husband, Harmon Oscar Nelson Jr., pictured in Hollywood in 1940.

Bette Davis and her first husband, Harmon Oscar Nelson Jr., pictured in Hollywood in 1940. She claimed in her autobiography that she jokingly named the statuette after him, but later admitted she hadn’t coined the term.

General Photographic Agency/Hulton Archive


hide caption

Advertisement

toggle caption

General Photographic Agency/Hulton Archive

The most famous version of events involves none other than legendary actress Bette Davis. She had long claimed, including in her 1962 biography, that she coined the Oscar’s nickname while accepting her first Academy Award some three decades earlier.

Advertisement

“Her story was that she was holding [it] in her hands and just kind of waiting for the ceremonies to move along, and she started looking at the hindquarters of the statuette and she said … the hindquarters of the statuette were the very image of her husband,” Davis explained.

But Davis’ husband at the time, musician Harmon Oscar Nelson Jr., was primarily known by another nickname, “Ham.” And mentions of “Oscar” appeared in print years before Davis won her first one, in 1936. Davis eventually retracted the claim in her 1974 book, telling her biographer: “A sillier controversy never existed.”

“I don’t feel my fame and fortune came from naming Oscar ‘Oscar,’” she said, according to USA Today. “I relinquish once and for all any claim.”

The more-likely suspects

Perhaps a more likely source is Margaret Herrick, the Academy’s mid-20th century librarian-turned-executive director.

She apparently referred to the statue as such in the 1930s “because it looked like her uncle Oscar,” said Monica Sandler, a film and media historian at Ball State University.

Advertisement

Sandler says Herrick is the most logical choice, given her proximity to the Academy.

Herrick joined her then-husband, executive director Donald Gledhill, at the Academy in the early 1930s as an unpaid volunteer, and became its official librarian in 1936. Herrick took over as interim executive director when he left for the Army in 1943.

She was formally appointed to the role two years later and led the Academy until her retirement in 1971.

“There are very few women with the type of power and control she had over an institution at that time in the industry,” Sandler said.

Margaret Herrick, the executive director of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences in Hollywood, pictured with film pioneer Col. William Selig in 1947.

Margaret Herrick, the executive director of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences in Hollywood, pictured with film pioneer Col. William Selig in 1947. She also took credit for coining the nickname, apparently after her uncle.

ASSOCIATED PRESS

Advertisement


hide caption

toggle caption

ASSOCIATED PRESS

Advertisement

Herrick is credited with building up the Academy’s library into one of the world’s primary film research centers, as well as negotiating the award show’s first television contract — and a major step toward financial independence — in 1953.

Davis says she often took credit, in conversations and media interviews, for jokingly naming the Oscar after her uncle. But he’s skeptical of Herrick’s claim.

“We’re not sure that she was really the first person to use that, because she had difficulties over the ensuing years in identifying this Uncle Oscar,” he explained.

Davis does, however, think that the most likely originator was someone else on the early staff of the Academy: Eleanore Lilleberg, a secretary and office assistant who apparently oversaw the pre-ceremony handling of the statuettes.

He said her name surfaced every now and then, but he didn’t have “much hard proof” until after his retirement, when he got wind of the Einar Lilleberg Museum. It’s a small community center in California’s Green Valley honoring Eleanore’s brother, Einar Lilleberg, an artist and craftsman. He booked a visit and immediately happened upon a box of Einar’s writings.

Advertisement

“And I thought: ‘This is it. Now, this is going to tell the story about the Oscar,’” Davis says. “And he almost did.”

He said Einar’s correspondence was light on detail, but unmistakably credited the naming to his sister, describing it as: “Yes, she got in the habit of doing that, and the rest of the staff thought it was amusing not to call them the ‘Academy Award of Merit,’ but just ‘Oscar’ … and it really did catch on.”

So which Oscar did Lilleberg have in mind? Her brother’s explanation, which Davis endorses, is that she was thinking back to a Norwegian veteran they had known as children in Chicago, who “was kind of a character in town and famous for standing straight and tall.”

Davis wasn’t able to track down that particular Oscar. But he says no one has challenged his theory in the years since his book was published, “so I’m sticking with it.”

The lingering mystery 

A table full of Oscar statues.

The Oscar statuettes were called “Academy Awards of Merit” at the first ceremony in 1929. Their nickname officially took hold a decade later.

Dean Treml/AFP via Getty Images

Advertisement


hide caption

toggle caption

Dean Treml/AFP via Getty Images

Advertisement

While Davis takes some personal satisfaction in the outcome of his quest, he accepts that the mystery of the Oscar nickname may never be solved conclusively.

“If I had come up empty, I wouldn’t be arguing that we need to change the name,” he said. “But it’s interesting that it became such a tradition. There were no film awards that had a personal name before Oscar gained his, and then … within the next couple of years … everybody started looking for a personal name.”

Sandler, the media historian, says that because the Academy Awards were “really the first major pop culture award,” many others used it as a template.

The prizes in other countries’ most-prestigious award ceremonies have similarly personified names: France’s César Awards, Mexico’s Ariel Awards, Italy’s David’s. Plus, there are the Emmy and Tony awards, both products of the mid-20th century.

Davis says he’s just satisfied that people are still interested in the Oscars, regardless of who they’re named after.

Advertisement

“You feel closer to an award if you’re on a first-name basis with it, I guess,” he added.

Continue Reading
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Lifestyle

How 7 Looks for ‘The Devil Wears Prada 2’ Came Together

Published

on

How 7 Looks for ‘The Devil Wears Prada 2’ Came Together

When Molly Rogers got the call to work on the costumes for “The Devil Wears Prada,” she could sense right away that she was involved in something special.

“I knew people were going to go nuts for it — I’d never turned the pages of a script like that before,” said Rogers, who worked on the 2006 film as the associate costume designer under the tutelage of her longtime mentor, the “Sex and the City” costume designer Patricia Field.

But even Rogers couldn’t have predicted just how big the film would become. In the 20 years since its release, the comedy, about the imperious fashion magazine editor Miranda Priestly (Meryl Streep) and her ill-suited assistant, Andy (Anne Hathaway), has become part of the cultural lexicon, thanks to memes and memorable lines like Miranda’s contemptuous catchphrase, “That’s all.”

So when Field, who was busy styling the rom-com series “Emily in Paris,” asked Rogers to handle the costumes for the film sequel — this time as lead designer — she jumped at the opportunity.

Some designers might have been intimidated. Hathaway has called designing the costumes for a “Devil Wears Prada” film a “heroic act,” explaining in a recent Times article: “It’s not just one character arc, it’s so, so many. Fashion is a language in the film; it’s another character.”

Advertisement

For Rogers, though, the experience was more nostalgic than nerve-racking.

“It was like coming back to summer camp,” she said of the production.

On a recent morning at the Four Seasons Hotel in Lower Manhattan, Rogers went over sketches for six pivotal costumes from “The Devil Wears Prada 2” — and one that didn’t make the cut.

At Rogers’s first meeting with Streep, Miranda’s gala look came up, and both had the same immediate thought: “It has to be red.”

“And she’s the one who said, ‘Let’s do a sleeve on one arm and bare on the other,’” Rogers said of Miranda’s asymmetrical gown, which is a custom-made Balenciaga in red silk super taffeta. “It’s so fabulous.”

Advertisement

The dress, which features a tilted collar and a thin matching belt, was built in Paris, with a team from Balenciaga flying to New York City twice to fit Streep for it.

At one point the actress suggested trying a hat to top off the look — possibly a nod to horns — but Rogers said she knew it was “gilding the lily.”

“It was her white hair alone that the red gown should frame,” she said.

As Runway magazine’s new features editor, Andy is back in the same orbit as her frenemy and fellow ex-assistant, Emily Charlton (Emily Blunt), who’s now an executive at Christian Dior. To solve a crisis at the magazine, Andy agrees to an expansive feature on the company, whose advertising dollars Runway needs.

For Andy’s interview look, Rogers opted for a black button-down Jean Paul Gaultier pinstriped vest, paired with matching slacks, a pearl necklace — and nothing underneath.

Advertisement

“I was constantly trying to balance found things with things that she could have afforded and that she would wear as a professional reporter,” Rogers said.

There’s also a surprise when Andy turns around: The vest has an all-white silk back.

“I loved that,” Rogers said.

For a scene involving a backstabbing Emily, Rogers went with a sequined Dior houndstooth power suit — with a Zimmermann leather capelet.

“I tried to find Dior pieces that have a little edge to them,” Rogers said of the black-and-white wool number from the spring 2026 collection.

Advertisement

Emily’s style in the sequel, she said, was an extension of the first: The character still has a mix-and-match aesthetic, pairing, for instance, a white Dior button-down with a Wiederhoeft corset and Gaultier black-and-white pinstriped pants.

“We didn’t have enough outfits for her,” Rogers said. “I think she changed 16 times.”

One lesson Rogers has learned in more than 40 years working with Field, she said, is that “you cannot force an actor to wear anything.”

“You can have your heart set on a gown that you want in a scene and think it’s the perfect color, but you’re not the one in it,” she said. “Pat’s fittings, and mine as well, are very collaborative: Do you like what I brought into the room? How does it feel on you?”

So when she came across this homey, tasseled Dries Van Noten jacket, she crossed her fingers that Streep would dig it.

Advertisement

Streep did.

“She thought it was a great piece for the right scene,” Rogers said. “I thought it had enough oomph to it to still be in the office, and it looked like ‘editor.’ It made me think of Diana Vreeland,” once the editor in chief of Vogue.

Andy’s gala look inverts the movie’s through-line of sleeveless pieces layered atop button-ups and blouses: Here the base layer, a blouse from the Armani Privé fall 2024 couture collection, is sheer, tucked beneath a black silk velvet jumpsuit with pinstripe Swarovski crystal suspenders.

“It came down the runway without a blouse, and I was like, David’s never going to let me do that,” Rogers said, referring to the director, David Frankel. “Anne Hathaway at the dinner table with no blouse on — how cool would that be? But they made us a beautiful sheer blouse.”

Another hat that appeared in Rogers’s initial sketch bit the dust: a velvet Armani beret with jet-black glass stones.

Advertisement

“I am a hat fighter,” Rogers said. “I’ve gone through big hat fights, with Sarah Jessica Parker and I fighting for hats on TV shows. They always don’t want to light them, or they cast shadows, blah blah blah, and it always unfinishes an outfit.”

Though the beret for Andy was fabricated, she said, “sure enough, they killed it.”

When Miranda saunters through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan’s stunning historic shopping arcade, the lights shimmer off the colored crystals and black sequins on her Armani overcoat, turning her into a human disco ball.

“When I read the script, I was like, ‘That needs to dazzle,’” Rogers said of the statement piece from Giorgio Armani’s Privé spring 2025 couture collection, which she layered over a tie-neck Lurex Oud blouse and black trousers.

It was a choice she initially had some trepidation about.

Advertisement

“I was afraid of the pussy-bow blouse on Miranda Priestly,” she said. “Because that feels soft to me. But it was such a cacophony of colors and textures, and I felt like it was strong enough.”

Miranda’s black cat-eye Prada glasses are striking, of course, but Rogers said the boldest accessory was her side-swept white hair.

“I think that there was great resistance to that,” Rogers said. “People didn’t understand that.”

The look was drawn from that of the fashion editor Polly Mellen and the model Carmen Dell’Orefice.

“Meryl and Pat insisted on it,” Rogers said.

Advertisement

Emily’s gala dress — a strapless Dior gown with a nude tulle and black lace corset top, matching opera gloves and a slinky black satin skirt with a double side bow — was Rogers’s favorite look from the film. Alas, it ended up on the cutting-room floor.

Still, she said, she loved getting the chance to bring an edge to a very un-Emily-like shape.

“When I think of Dior and bows, I think of Charlotte,” Rogers said of the preppy “Sex and the City” character. “So to take a Dior bow and make it look — there’s a bit of a goth idea there. And I thought that was really appropriate for her character.”

Continue Reading

Lifestyle

The exclusive fashion drops, art openings and collaborations injecting your May with motion

Published

on

The exclusive fashion drops, art openings and collaborations injecting your May with motion

“Spectacular Brooding” by Harmony Holiday at REDCAT

Harmony Holiday, Excerpt from “Cry Variations,” 2026. Sprung dance-floor, Ballet barre, 2-camera documentation with camcorder and self-wear camera, Audio and Projection playback system, bench, mirrors with ephemera and written material, lightbox.

(From the artist and REDCAT)

Contemporary artist, poet and Image contributing writer Harmony Holiday explores Black grief through an idea she calls the “Black Backstage” in her new show. With a gallery space split between a dance studio and a film editing room, the exhibition weaves elements of choreography, documentary, oral history and ritual. Open through July 5. 631 W. 2nd Street, Los Angeles. redcat.org

F1 X Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton trophy trunk.

Kicking off the start of the Formula 1 season in 2026, Louis Vuitton is displaying trophy trunks at every Grand Prix ceremony this year. For the winners, the champion trophy will emerge out of the monogrammed case. louisvuitton.com

Advertisement

“Several Eternities in a Day” and “Space Is the Place” at Hammer Museum

Guadalupe Maravilla, "Disease Thrower #16," 2021.

Guadalupe Maravilla, “Disease Thrower #16,” 2021. Gong, steel, wood, cotton, glue mixture, plastic, loofah, and objects collected from a ritual of retracing the artist’s original migration route.

(From the artist and P·P·O·W, New York. Photo JSP Art Photography.)

Two shows open at the Hammer this spring, exploring cultural heritage across the Americas and the idea of “‘space’ as a conceptual framework,” respectively, through living material sculptures, paintings, installations and mixed media works. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles. hammer.ucla.edu

Gucci’s the Art of Silk Rodeo Drive exclusives

Gucci silk scarf.

Gucci’s new collection of silk scarves features two designs created exclusively for the Rodeo Drive store and LACMA, in time for the opening of the David Geffen Galleries. Available now. 347 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills. gucci.com

Clare Vivier X Wallshoppe

La-Garland, Blue-Olive

La-Garland, Blue-Olive

(Thierry Vivier)

Advertisement

Walls need refreshing too. Give your home a French lakeside feel with whimsical patterns from the Clare Vivier X Wallshoppe collab. wallshoppe.com

“Tokala” by Marcus Correa, Carlos Jaramillo and Thomas Lopez

Tokala the new photography book.

(Carlos Jaramillo, Marcus Correa, Thomas Lopez)

“Tokala” is a new photography book illustrating climate and social justice through the lens of 13 activists from 11 regions, cultures and spaces across the country. Photographed by Carlos Jaramillo and styled by Marcus Correa, the book is available at Now Instant. 939 Chung King Road, Los Angeles.

Street Grandma opens in the Arts District

Display on show at Street Grandma.

Playful, feminine, masculine, oversize shirts and pants. Street Grandma’s new showroom features its unique silhouettes in a space that feels — as the namesake suggests — like nana’s house. Open Saturdays by appointment only. 941 E. 2nd St., Los Angeles. streetgrandma.com

Advertisement

“Ninety-six and Pissed” by Magdalena Suarez Frimkess at Marciano Art Foundation

Magdalena Suarez Frimkess "Untitled," 2025 Pencil and colored pencil on paper Unframed: 24 x 18 in.

Magdalena Suarez Frimkess “Untitled,” 2025 Pencil and colored pencil on paper Unframed: 24 x 18 in.

(From the artist and kaufmann repetto Milan / New York. Photo by Marten
Elder)

Part of an array of new openings for the spring, artist Magdalena Suarez Frimkess’ show “Ninety-six and Pissed” features more than 30 new cartoon drawings, expanding her universe of irreverent “caracteres.” Opening May 6. 4357 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles. marcianoartfoundation.org

“Nascence” by Maddy Inez at Megan Mulrooney

Maddy Inez "Blood Bloom," 2026 Glazed Ceramic

Maddy Inez “Blood Bloom,” 2026 Glazed Ceramic

(From the artist and Megan Mulrooney, Los Angeles. Photo by Paul Salveson)

Advertisement

L.A.’s roots in colonial agriculture run long and deep. Sculptor Maddy Inez, granddaughter of Betye Saar, crafts a series of ceramic vessels — each an ode to different plants brought over during the transatlantic slave trade — reframing gardening as an act of resistance. Opening May 16. 7313 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood. meganmulrooney.com

Rocky's Matcha and tin on top of a croissant.

Skip the line. Community Goods is coming straight home to you this month in a collaboration with Rocky’s Matcha. The unique blend from Yame, Japan, has a nutty taste, umami finish and comes in a bright orange tin. Available online at rockysmatcha.com.

Sprüth Magers 10-year anniversary

Kara Walker Invasive Species (to be placed in your native garden), 2017 Bronze

Kara Walker “Invasive Species (to be placed in your native garden)”, 2017 Bronze

(From Sprüth Magers and Sikkema Malloy Jenkins)

The influential gallery is celebrating its 10th year in L.A. with an exhibition titled “10 Years LA!,” featuring works by Kara Walker, Cindy Sherman and Barbara Kruger. Opening May 15. 5900 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles. spruethmagers.com

Advertisement

Hunza G X Burberry

Hunza G x Burberry collaboration

Who said Burberry is just for winter city streets? The iconic beige check gets a casual revival in a collaboration with swim brand Hunza G. See it on totes, bucket hats, board shorts and slippers this summer. Available now at hunzag.com.

Supervsn X Lauren Halsey

Group of people wearing the Supervsn streetwear collection.

(Supervsn. Photo by Russell Hamilton)

Supervsn streetwear.

(Supervsn. Photo by Russell Hamilton)

For the grand opening of “sister dreamer” sculpture park in South-Central, Lauren Halsey collaborated with streetwear brand Supervsn on a new collection, Camo We Live In. As the name suggests, the collection reworks camouflage as a collage-like reflection of culture in public spaces. Available at supervsn.com.

Dover Street Market X Comme des Garçons sale

Comme Des Garçons x Dover Street Market event flyer

Dover Street Market is hosting an L.A. sale, taking over Mica Studios in downtown. Called Market Market: Message Market, the sale will feature past season Comme des Garçons collections and Dover Street Market favorites with discounts of up to 70% off. Happening May 8 through 13. 356 S. Mission Road, Los Angeles. losangeles.doverstreetmarket.com

Advertisement
Continue Reading

Lifestyle

Can the Costume Institute Survive Without the Met Gala?

Published

on

Can the Costume Institute Survive Without the Met Gala?

For years, as the Met Gala has grown ever bigger, blanketing social media with pictures of guests in their finery, smashing cultural fund-raising records, teetering tantalizingly on the line between fabulous and ridiculous, the questions and controversies surrounding New York’s “party of the year” have likewise proliferated.

Could the shindig, nominally a benefit for the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, get any more high-profile? When most of the country was struggling, should any institution be charging $100,000 a ticket for a party? And perhaps most importantly: What would happen when Anna Wintour, the evening’s mastermind and the woman who transformed it from a typical charity ball into an attention-guzzling juggernaut, retired?

Would the brands and people willing to pony up these exorbitant sums to be in one another’s orbits instead pocket the money? And if so, what would that mean for the future of the Costume Institute, a department that has been almost fully dependent on the gala as a source of its annual funds since the party began in 1948?

Could it even survive without the extravaganza?

It turns out the museum itself has been quietly working on an answer.

Advertisement

“Since 2016, we have been putting some money that we raised for the gala aside into a quasi endowment,” Andrew Bolton, the Costume Institute’s curator in charge, said this month.

And by 2030 — possibly as soon as 2028 — the Costume Institute will have saved enough of a nest egg to potentially support its own basic operations for the foreseeable future, no matter what happens in the greater museum economy or with the gala itself.

Along with this year’s inauguration of the new Condé M. Nast Galleries in the Great Hall, which will house the Costume Institute’s blockbuster shows, the endowment fund represents a dramatic transformation in the position of the Costume Institute, not to mention its relationship to the party held in its honor.

“I, and the museum, always wanted the department to be not as reliant on the gala every year,” Bolton said. “The Met Gala is extraordinary, but sometimes it dwarfs everything.” Besides, the department has been forced to cancel galas twice, in 2002, after Sept. 11, and in 2020, during the early months of the pandemic.

“It was a real wake-up call,” Bolton said of the Covid cancellation. “What if there was another global disaster, and people were like, ‘I can’t come to a party?’” Ms. Wintour, he said, “takes immense pride in every year going higher and higher. But there will be a point where that’s not sustainable.”

Advertisement

A more permanent and reliable solution was necessary to ensure that “we would be safe in terms of the upkeep and the care of our collection and have enough money to take care of ourselves indefinitely,” Bolton said.

According to Darren Walker, the president of the board of trustees of the National Gallery of Art in Washington D.C., “it’s always great news if a department can be fully funded. But aside from some private museums, I don’t know of any that actually are.” Enter the endowment fund.

Though Bolton and a museum spokeswoman said it was museum policy not to discuss specific department finances, and though the Met does not break out such numbers in its annual report, they did acknowledge the Costume Institute fund had been formally created in 2016 and was, like most of the museum’s endowments, run by the Met’s investment and development teams. Currently, the department’s operating costs include salaries for curators, researchers and conservators; storage and conservation of more than 33,000 objects; exhibition costs for the smaller fall shows and publications; and support of the Costume Institute’s Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library. (Bolton also estimated that about 10 percent of the Met Gala money went to the museum itself.)

Still, some back-of-the-envelope math is possible. Given that the operating budget of the Costume Institute is approximately $5 million a year, it would most likely require an endowment of between $100 and $130 million. (According to the American Alliance of Museums, 5 percent is the average draw of an endowment fund.) The gala has raised $166.5 million over the past 10 years, so subtracting the operating costs and the amount that goes directly to the Met would suggest there is approximately $106 million in the fund currently (a bit less if there were unusual expenses one year). If the party continues on the financial trajectory it has set for another two to four years, that would easily ensure enough capital in the fund to allow the department to essentially live off the interest going forward.

“It is important for the Costume Institute, as it is for every department at the Met, that we do not spend all of the money raised annually,” said Max Hollein, the director and chief executive of the Met. The goal, he said, is “saving and investing funds so that the museum can be prepared for future challenges as well as cost increases.”

Advertisement

The Met’s overall operating costs were $427.6 million in the 2025 fiscal year, the last reported period, and that includes 17 different curatorial departments with widely varying budgets. Many departments also have their own directed endowments, including gifts earmarked for acquisitions or curatorial positions. The Annenberg Foundation grant, for example, awarded in 2001, gave the museum $10 million to create a fund for the acquisition of European paintings, drawings, prints, sculptures and decorative arts.

What made the Costume Institute an anomaly in the museum ecosystem was that it raised most of its money via a party — one that had increasingly overshadowed almost every other activity of the museum itself, and that, like Wintour’s daytime employer, Condé Nast, seemed increasingly reliant on her presence and power . And though Wintour has been quick to say she is not going anywhere, she is 76 and last year relinquished day-to-day control of American Vogue to focus on her role as Condé’s chief content officer.

“Anna Wintour is not replaceable,” said William Norwich, the editor for fashion and interior design at Phaidon Press and a former editor at Vogue. (In recognition of her efforts, the downstairs Costume Institute galleries were christened the Anna Wintour Costume Center in 2014.)

Also, because the gala traditionally inaugurates a blockbuster exhibition, it by definition requires that the Costume Institute put on a major show every year, rather than adhere to the more traditional schedule of smaller shows with one mega-show every other year or every three years. That creates what Bolton described as “enormous pressure” for the department.

And the party has increasingly become a lightning rod for uncomfortable discussions about social and financial inequality. Since 2021, there have been protests around the event over police brutality, climate change and the war in Gaza. This year, posters have gone up calling for a boycott because of the involvement of Jeff Bezos, the evening’s honorary chair and main sponsor, pointing to allegations of worker exploitation, among other issues. Zohran Mamdani, the mayor of New York, has publicly announced he is not going to attend.

Advertisement

Allowing the gala’s profile and profit goals (the party raised $31 million in 2025) to be downsized would take some of the pressure and attention off the museum and the brands that have supported it. Many of them have begun privately bemoaning the expense of the party, which involves not just buying tickets but also paying for celebrity guests to fly in with their entourages, stay in five-star hotels, wear custom looks and have their hair and makeup done. (This year’s fashion sponsor, Saint Laurent, is underwriting only the exhibition catalog.) Especially as the luxury industry enters a period of slower growth.

Still, Norwich said he doubted it would ever go entirely away. “There is an ongoing human need and fascination for such parties,” Norwich said. “Celebrity and fashion and the sparklers will always need to be seen in order to be believed and in order to be distinguished from the crowds.”

In any case, even once the endowment is complete, more fund-raising will always be required. Operating costs continue to rise, there are special one-off investments required to maintain and expand a department, and the major exhibitions themselves require their own sponsors. But the amounts involved will not be as onerous, or as imperative. Indeed, it seems the very reason for the price inflation may have been to anticipate a time when it will no longer be necessary.

In a texted statement, Wintour simply said, “As a Met trustee, I have always felt strongly that the Costume Institute must stand on a solid footing.”

Now it is almost there. Which means, when it comes to the party, “it’ll be interesting to see how it’s going to evolve,” Bolton said.

Advertisement

Robin Pogrebin contributed reporting.

Continue Reading
Advertisement

Trending