It’s sometimes hard to believe that Atlanta has been destroyed by fire twice — first toward the end of the Civil War, and again in 1917, when a blaze destroyed 3,400 buildings. In the century since, the city’s undergone much development, often at the expense of historic communities. “Atlanta has an unfortunate habit of bulldozing historic properties in exchange for shiny new ones,” according to Atlanta Magazine. Despite this, ATL remains defined by its neighborhoods, a rich mix of historic districts, green spaces, and celebrated food scenes. Longstanding neighborhoods like Cabbagetown — a queer-friendly enclave known for its eateries — and Inman Park — an artsy neighborhood with charming architecture and cafés — reflect this past and present. SoNo, a quirky nickname derived from “South of North,” as in “South of North Avenue,” sits at the center of it all. Located west of Old Fourth Ward, a historic neighborhood with good shopping, SoNo has emerged as a thriving hub thanks to its trendy eats, entertainment options, and historic vibe. It’s also considered one of Atlanta’s most walkable neighborhoods.

Interstate 85 runs along SoNo’s western edge, providing quick access from elsewhere. With a transit score of 65 on WalkScore.com, the neighborhood is obviously well connected to the rest of the city. Although surrounded by skyscrapers and office buildings, SoNo retains its history through smaller buildings and long-standing businesses. Roughly 100 establishments, from coffee shops to restaurants to music venues, call SoNo home, including the original J.R. Crickets, an acclaimed chicken wings chain. For entertainment there’s the Fox Theatre, built in 1929, as well as the Shakespeare Tavern Playhouse, home to Atlanta’s Shakespeare Company. And like most Atlanta enclaves, there’s no shortage of green spaces. Folk Art Park features city skyline views, while sprawling Central Park sits just east.

When you look at the Atlanta skyline from a distance, you’re seeing SoNo. SoNo is bounded to the north by North Avenue — once the city’s northernmost boundary — Central Park to the east, and Interstate 85 to the west and south. Midtown sits just above North Avenue. SoNo received its modern moniker around 2005, when new development revitalized the area, introducing contemporary apartments and helping the neighborhood carve out a distinct identity among Atlanta’s many districts. Today, SoNo features contemporary high-rise condos and apartment buildings that contribute to the city skyline, with average rents on Apartments.com reported at $1,782 for studios.

Other standout landmarks include Bank of America Plaza, Atlanta’s tallest building, and the Rufus M. Rose House, a rare, late Victorian Queen Anne-style mansion once owned by the founder of Four Roses Distillery (interior tours not available as of this writing). Nearby, the W.W. Orr Building, a 1930s-era Art Deco structure, continues to function as part of the Emory University Hospital Midtown campus, and One Georgia Center adds to the area’s quirky mix of historic and modern.

One of SoNo’s most historic stretches is the Baltimore Block, a series of rowhouses uncommon in the South, where historic residential architecture typically consists of semi-detached duplexes or shotgun-style homes. Built by Baltimore native Jacob J. Rosenthal, the 14 rowhouses became the city’s first long-term lease rental units. They were considered modern and opulent for the time, featuring rare luxuries like central heating, gaslight fixtures, and marble mantels. The area was briefly a hotspot for Atlanta’s white high society, though it eventually fell into disrepair, with some buildings demolished. Slowly, restoration began in the 1930s, and by the 1980s, Baltimore Block had been converted into a mixed-use office and apartment complex.

SoNo’s WalkScore rating of 87 in walkability pairs with a bike score of 72, meaning it’s easy to get around. While its own restaurant scene isn’t as large or widely known as Bucktown, Little Five Points, or nearby Midtown — a vibrant district with festivals, rooftop spaces, and art – SoNo still has a few standout, innovative and trendy eating options. Poor Calvin’s, in the neighborhood since 2012, was once known for a “killer brunch” but now focuses on dinner, offering fusion Thai-American dishes like Deviled eggs with crab, lobster macaroni and cheese, frog legs, and Fuji apple cake. “Imagine shrimp curry with a side of mac-and-cheese,” wrote one TripAdvisor reviewer. “I could not possibly recommend this restaurant more.” Another agreed: “This is such a popular restaurant and there’s no need to guess why.”

Nikolai’s Roof on the 30th floor of the Hilton Atlanta, a short walk south of SoNo, is perfect for celebratory events. Its fine dining menu features seared foie gras, duck breast, and a ricotta-gruyère lasagna, plus caviar service, complemented by a wine list and cocktails. “Nikolai’s is a gem!” wrote a TripAdvisor reviewer. “The small details are not overlooked and the food was delicious.” Another agreed: “Amazing food, great views of the city, awesome environment. 10/10 definitely recommend.” There are plenty more restaurants offering a diverse range of cuisines, and there’s the aforementioned J.R. Crickets, an acclaimed fried chicken wing spot.

While the historic Fox Theatre and Publik Draft House are just north of North Avenue, they’re easily walkable or bikable from SoNo, making it simple to enjoy the broader Midtown dining and nightlife scene. You could even make it on foot to the one-Michelin star Lazy Betty for innovative contemporary dishes, about a mile walk.