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Terry Tempest Williams: At my Utah home, I stand in the terrible beauty of climate chaos

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Terry Tempest Williams: At my Utah home, I stand in the terrible beauty of climate chaos


Erosion is happening before our eyes. I took pictures on June 21 to remember this moment that is now commonplace worldwide, people meeting extreme weather at home — in our case, Castle Valley, Utah. Add other pictures of most of Grand County flooding, including downtown Moab and you have a more complete picture of the week we had two flash floods within days of each other.

Highway 124, locally known as the “River Road,” looked like the first day of creation as dozens and dozens of pink sediment-laden waterfalls were cascading off red rock cliffs reaching the Colorado River in seconds. I didn’t know there could be that much free falling water in the desert in times of drought.

San Juan County also experienced violent flash floods that reshaped and redistributed sand and land within the Valley of the Gods that no god of flesh or stone could control.

Brooke, my husband, and I stood on the berm that has protected our house from these seasonal floods watching in awe the velocity and force of Placer Creek’s rushing red water, now two torrents rerouted by the contours of the land like a band of wild horses split in two, galloping down the west and east sides of our home. It was a terrible beauty, adding a punishing depth to my own definition of awe.

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(Terry Tempest Williams) A flash flood in Castle Valley on June 21, 2024.

The roar of the water was deeper than sound, it was a bodily pounding of rolling rocks and collapsing walls of washes, now, cutting and clogging arroyos with debris until another wave of water ambushed the fallen trees, most of them uprooted junipers with broken branches being flushed down valley until they were abandoned somewhere crossing a flooding Miller Lane onward to Castle Creek below.

Local crews made up of neighbors worked late into the night trying to clear roads. But the road where we live, mid-valley, took two days before the settled water dried and we could resume our lives. Every living thing from sage to the grooved trunks of cottonwoods to our own gardens was draped and drowning — days later caked and baked in burnt-orange mud.

We’ve had flash floods before, the last one at twilight on October 2, 2022. I remember because Brooke was healing from open-heart surgery. As he grabbed a shovel and began digging an alternative path for the water pouring over our berm to follow, I found myself screaming above the roar for him to come inside. There was nothing he could do, nothing anyone can do in those moments of earth being pummeled and swept away. It is too late for sand bags, all you can do is watch and retreat to a safe place where you wait out the storm — sleepless through the night until morning comes. At sunrise, an uneasy silence settles in among the devastation. You walk outside, squinting until your eyes adjust to searing light exposing the ravages. It is here you embrace the paradox that the forces responsible for this red rock desert of buttes and mesas, hoodoos and arches, in all its erosional beauty, is the very thing that threatens to destroy your home inside it.

Flash floods come and go in desert country. Ron Drake reported last week in “Castle Valley Comments,” that “Frank Mendonca of Castleton, who keeps a strict record of the weather and flooding … recorded the rainfall at 6.10 inches per hour on June 21 and 6.62 inches per hour June 27.”

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But these last two flash floods felt different, just as the climatologists have warned, especially in drought. Scientists say floods will become more frequent, more intense and more catastrophic in scope and scale. And in the American Southwest, their predictions are coming to pass. We are ground zero for climate chaos be it extreme heat, extreme floods and as happened within Pre-Puebloan cultures: extreme displacement. It is now understood that the “Ancient Ones” did not disappear as we were taught decades ago, but left the Colorado Plateau and migrated to the Rio Grande Valley due to the megadrought of 1,200 years ago. We are experiencing this once again.

We tend to think geologic change occurs over millions of years. This is true. But it is also true, change occurs as a cataclysmic force lasting seconds, minutes. The first flash on June 21 was the result of a 10-minute microburst — a downpour so sudden, so intense it exceeded the annual rainfall for June more than two times over. A double rainbow arched over the Colorado River. The two rainbows framed darkness inside, black space known as “Alexander’s Band,” the result of a certain angle of light reflected and refracted through water droplets in the air — scientific and biblical.

In these moments, one wonders what can be done other than accept and adapt to changing landscapes in a changing climate on a planet in peril. We now live in the liminal space between the predictable and unpredictabilities of a world on fire.

In a state like Utah, the realities of climate change are still being denied and debated.

We have seen where we turn for guidance when our state legislators were confronted in 2023 by our threatened, terminal Great Salt Lake. The making of brave public policies preparing for an uncertain future was set aside in favor of prayer. I am not saying prayer isn’t important in times of crisis. And who can say Great Salt Lake didn’t momentarily rise in our two years of record-breaking precipitation because of prayers statewide? But we need something more reliable than god. By that I mean, to quote my great-grandmother Vilate Romney, “Faith without works is dead.”

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We must engage, engage, engage in the climate crisis that is the bedrock of all other crises — including wars. Climate instability is not for future generations to solve. It is ours to reckon with now. It is here and it is flooding our lives with chaos and burning up our dreams, not just for our species, but all life on Earth. Anything short of visionary leadership on all fronts is unacceptable — from our neighborhoods to our schools, from our religious institutions to our elected public officials. It must be all hands on deck.

We have entered the era of ecological and spiritual awakening. We can speak up, we can act out of the urgency of our broken hearts and we can vote for climate-eyed leaders.

(Terry Tempest Williams) Writer Terry Tempest Williams stands near her home in Castle Valley after a series of flash floods.

This is not just about us, here, now, this is about a future for those we love, and our future descendants who deserve, alongside the descendants of all manner of creatures, the right to flourish as we have, long after our bodies are buried in and sprinkled upon the Earth.

What do we have to lose? Everything we depend on from water, to clean air, to the beauty of the world that surrounds us that is contingent on peace: peace of mind and peace at home from Grand County, Utah, to Israel to Gaza to Ukraine to the Congo and Sudan. Conflicts are overcome by looking into one another’s eyes and acknowledging what we share, the belief that we can do better.

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We can face the truth of where we stand, if we do it together. I was standing ankle-deep in mud that behaved like quicksand wondering how I was going to get back to the house. I was stuck and sinking. I turned around and there was my neighbor, Mary O’Brien, covered in mud, herself, coming to check on us. She gave me her hand and pulled me out. We laughed at both the absurdity and severity of where we found ourselves. Placer Creek had taken down their fences and was racing through their property. We walked back to the house talking about how our community might design a flood plan with catch basins — and that, perhaps, our land needs to become a public commons as a possible flood plan. It was a generative conversation. Despair is when you feel you have no options.

We have options. We can reimagine the world differently. “What can we do?” may not be the most important question we can ask, but rather, “What is needed here?”

The poet-farmer Wendell Berry writes, “We have lived by the assumption that what was good for us would be good for the world … We have been wrong. We must change our lives, so that it will be possible to live by the contrary assumption that what is good for the world will be good for us … We must recover the sense of the majesty of the creation and the ability to be worshipful in its presence. For it is only on the condition of humility and reverence before the world that our species will be able to remain in it.”

Last night, I needed a perspective beyond the presidential debate, beyond the Supreme Court rulings of stripped environmental regulations and immunity for a king; and beyond the fluff of “Bridgerton.” I needed a vantage point that doesn’t distract me from what hurts, but reminds me why it hurts. I sought the counsel of the Colorado River.

Walking with the river calmed my angst and sent my anxiety downriver. I have walked these eroding and flooding banks countless times in the 25 years we have lived here through deaths, disappointments and revelations, honoring the internal changes as well as the external ones in a landscape that remains resilient.

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Looking up at the cliffs, even they are not a given. Rockslides are part of their solid beauty. Two days earlier, sitting on our porch, I heard what I thought was a bomb — I looked up and a part of the cliff calved from Porcupine Rim tumbling down the hillside, leaving a white rectangle of exposed Windgate Sandstone. Nothing is certain but the moment at hand.

I want to be present to the times we are living in — not in fear, but in awe followed by conscious actions that can alleviate the pain we are experiencing, not just for our species, but all life on Earth. We are witnesses to cataclysmic change.

No matter how hard these times may be and become — life flows forward. I walked with the river for as far as I could before the canyon walls narrowed and night descended. Walking upriver, I noted first stars before returning home.

(Leah Hogsten | The Salt Lake Tribune) Great Salt Lake advocate and activist author Terry Tempest Williams thanks the Salt Lake Library audience Saturday, August 26, 2023 after Williams and Brigham Young University assistant professor of ecosystem ecology Ben Abbott joined Salt Lake County mayor Jenny Wilson for a discussion about the Great Salt Lake.

Terry Tempest Williams is the author of more than 20 books, most recently, “Erosion — Essays of Undoing.” She is writer-in-residence at the Harvard Divinity School and divides her time between Utah and Massachusetts.

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The Salt Lake Tribune is committed to creating a space where Utahns can share ideas, perspectives and solutions that move our state forward. We rely on your insight to do this. Find out how to share your opinion here, and email us at voices@sltrib.com.



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Planned 60-foot long Liberty Arch in Utah sparks patriotism, but also concerns

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Planned 60-foot long Liberty Arch in Utah sparks patriotism, but also concerns


SALT LAKE CITY — Rep. Mike Kennedy, R-Utah, views liberty as a driving force in American history, which is why he’s thrilled about a 60-foot-long and 36-foot-tall arch planned for a space near the Utah Capitol.

The Grand Liberty Arch, designed by renowned artist Sabin Howard, is expected to become one of the largest bronze sculptures in the West by the time it’s completed over the next seven years. Kennedy believes it will highlight the effort to gain liberty over the past 250 years.

“For two and a half centuries, liberty has been an active ingredient in the background of American history, and the driving engine of our national progress,” he said on Monday, as a 6-foot model of Howard’s piece rotated within the Utah Capitol rotunda next to him. “It is the vital spark that transformed a collection of colonies into a beacon of global innovation and human potential.”

However, those who live near its planned location are less excited by the state’s plan, not by the sculpture as much as the spot the state has in mind and the process by which it was selected. They believe it will drastically alter a longstanding open space, and question why the project was voted on quickly without much public feedback.

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The Grand Liberty Arch

The Capitol Preservation Board signed off on the project in May, with the expectation that the estimated $55 million cost will be raised privately. Former Zions Bank CEO Scott Anderson was working with JLL Salt Lake City Real Estate to raise the funds, meeting with family foundations and large corporations, officials said during the meeting.

Utah Gov. Spencer Cox penned a letter in support of the project in February, saying that he believes in the “significance of this legacy piece.” Howard, who recently completed a World War I memorial in Washington, D.C., had his latest vision on display at the Utah Capitol over Fourth of July weekend, so people could better view his vision.

The sculpture depicts many elements of the past 250 years in the U.S., from the Revolutionary War and the signing of the Declaration of Independence to the building of the country and its westward expansion. An unveiling ceremony was held Monday, where Howard and others were able to describe it and its importance for now and the next 250 years.

“America is dynamic. … Americans do not stand still,” he said. “The Grand Liberty Arch is a celebration of liberty that has transformed our nation.”

It’s expected to be built in phases over the next seven years, completed in time for the 2034 Winter Olympics and Paralympics. Over 100 people showed up for the ceremony, making sure to snag a photo of the model by the end of it.

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A neighborhood’s concern

The sculpture is to be located at 17 W. 500 North, on a parcel across the street from the Utah Capitol, informally known by some as the Capitol triangle. Utah owns the land, but it’s also not considered part of the primary Capitol Complex, meaning it’s not subject to some of the same Capitol grounds rules, Cox said.

Utah House Speaker Mike Schultz, R-Hooper, called it the “perfect location” during the board’s May meeting. Renderings show a plan to remove some of the park’s longstanding trees, replacing them with cherry trees around the arch that essentially adds to the Capitol’s walkway.

This rendering shows the proposed location for the Grand Liberty Arch monument northwest of the Utah Capitol. (Photo: Utah Capitol Preservation Board)

The location has also created a stir within its neighborhood. The Capitol Hill Neighborhood Council ended a June 17 meeting by debating several options to respond to the state’s decision.

There were some concerns raised about some of the depictions, but most are concerned about potential impacts to the current open space, which is used for an annual gathering, but also smaller park space since it’s located right next to homes, said Jonathan Bruns, chairman of the Capitol Hill Neighborhood Council.

“It’s off the main (path), so it’s a little … removed from the main grounds. It’s usually a quieter spot,” he explained.

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With thousands of people projected to cross the street to view the piece, they said it could snarl traffic along Capitol and Columbus streets. Others were concerned by the size and scale of the project and the quick process to select a design, which appeared to include little to no public feedback.

Salt Lake City Councilman Chris Wharton, whose district includes the area, pointed out that the state is exempt from local processes, meaning there’s nothing the city or county could do to intervene. As a resident and lawyer, he suggested a formal complaint to the Capitol Preservation Board over the monument process around the Capitol complex, which the neighborhood council plans to do.

The council agreed to submit a formal complaint to the board and Utah Attorney General’s Office to make sure that the board followed Utah’s Open and Public Meetings Act and normal processes for a monument. It also agreed to submit a public records request on the project for a “comprehensive report of community feedback.”

Part of the complaint centers around a discussion of a 100-year monument project for which there were two options discussed in May, separate from the arch. One celebrated the golden spike, while the other highlighted women’s suffrage in Utah, but the project was placed on hold over logistics.

Board members didn’t abandon the project, but said the arch could ultimately serve as the selection. That made the neighborhood question if it followed the correct process for monuments, Bruns explained.

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“It kind of seems like this went around the rules in an odd way. … We are obviously doing work to make sure it was done by the right processes,” he said.

The attorney general’s complaint has since been filed, while the rest are in the works, he told KSL. He’s unsure if the council would file a lawsuit over the time and money that would strain a volunteer group of residents.

Bruns credited Howard for being responsive, adding that he’s hopeful the state can also be understanding of the neighborhood’s concerns, whether that’s project adjustments or a new location.

The Key Takeaways for this article were generated with the assistance of large language models and reviewed by our editorial team. The article, itself, is solely human-written.



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Chicago man guilty of trafficking 25 lbs of cocaine through Utah with gun, $14k in cash

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Chicago man guilty of trafficking 25 lbs of cocaine through Utah with gun, k in cash


A jury returned a guilty verdict against a Chicago man accused of trafficking 25 pounds of cocaine through Utah with a firearm and cash.

Marcus Kentral Brown, 41, of Chicago, was found guilty on Tuesday of possessing 500 grams or more of cocaine with the intent to distribute and carrying a firearm in relation to a drug trafficking crime.

A Utah Highway Patrol trooper pulled Brown over in his Jeep Grand Cherokee on July 13, 2021. Brown reportedly said that he was traveling back to Chicago from California.

MORE | Drug Bust

The U.S. Attorney’s Office District of Utah said that, according to evidence presented at trial, the trooper conducted a consensual search of the vehicle and found 10 packages of cocaine (25 pounds worth) and a loaded Glock pistol in a hidden compartment in the rear cargo area. The trooper also found air fresheners and about $14,000 in cash.

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Brown is scheduled to be sentenced on Oct. 28 in St. George.

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Utah Shutters Boarding School Paris Hilton Says Abused Her

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Utah Shutters Boarding School Paris Hilton Says Abused Her



The state of Utah has revoked the license of a boarding school where socialite Paris Hilton said she was abused as a teen, saying the school “failed to provide applicable health and safety services for clients.” The state’s action, which took effect Monday, cites multiple noncompliance issues against the Provo Canyon School’s campus in Springville, reports the AP. The school has 15 days to request a hearing before the Department of Health & Human Services. The wide-ranging citations, which go back to 2025, include failing to increase staff-to-client ratios, engaging in unnecessary restraint and aggressive physical contact with a client, neglecting care, and not verifying employee information or submitting background checks for applicants in a timely manner.

“For more than fifty years, children came forward with stories of abuse, neglect, and trauma,” Hilton said in a statement provided Tuesday. “Today, the state confirmed what survivors have known all along: Provo Canyon School failed the children in its care. I was one of those children. I know what it feels like to cry for help and believe no one is coming. Today, children still inside that facility know someone is finally coming to protect them.” Hilton, the hotel heiress and media personality, spent almost a year at the school in the late 1990s. She alleges staff members beat her, watched her shower, fed her unknown pills, and locked her in solitary confinement without clothing.

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Hilton, 45, called on Utah regulators to shut down the school. She has testified about her experiences there in Congress and state legislatures around the US, helping pass laws to protect teens in Utah and 15 other states. Utah has long played an outsized role in the troubled teen industry, a network of private, for-profit residential centers for children with behavioral issues. In June, Hilton returned to the school to speak in support of two families who filed lawsuits alleging their children were mistreated there. The school is under new ownership. The administration has said it can’t comment on anything that came before the change, including Hilton’s time there. Provo Canyon School did not immediately respond to an AP email seeking comment. The state said in its letter that all services at the campus must be terminated by Aug. 6.





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