By the age of 27, Harrison Cheney had already cooked his way through top kitchens in London and Stockholm and was running the show at two-Michelin-starred Gastrologik, pushing out 20-course new Nordic tasting menus made with hyperseasonal, local produce. In short, he wouldn’t seem out of place as a character on “The Bear.”
San Francisco, CA
The coveted visa keeping SF’s elite restaurant kitchens running
There was just one problem: His girlfriend wanted to move back from Sweden to San Francisco.
“I’d always put my career first,” Cheney says. “But this time, I didn’t.”
Taking a chance on love, he sent his resume to a handful of San Francisco restaurants and eventually landed a role as head chef at Sons & Daughters, a 12-year-old fine dining destination. Though it had held its shining Michelin star for a decade, the restaurant had mostly fallen off the radars of the city’s food obsessives.
The girlfriend didn’t work out, but the job did. After Cheney joined the restaurant in 2022, Sons & Daughters shifted its menu to new Nordic cuisine, putting a California twist on the genre inspired by Noma, one of the most prestigious restaurants in the world. Gone were the quenelles of foie gras and filets of king salmon, replaced instead with elegant, technically meticulous dishes like black cod from Half Moon Bay, gently kissed with smoke and lacquered with lard, and roses made from rutabaga cooked in lactic fermented juice with smoked pork fat.
Under Cheney’s direction, Son & Daughters became one of the best fine dining restaurants in the Bay Area — earning a second Michelin star last year.
None of it would have been possible, however, without one thing: Cheney’s O-1 visa.
Immigration is the lifeblood of the country’s restaurant industry. But it’s not just counter-service joints and casual chains that depend on it for the essential work of washing dishes, prepping ingredients, and cooking on the line. Michelin-level restaurants also rely on immigrants to round out their ranks. Typically, these workers arrive through short-term visa programs that allow aspiring, early-career chefs to intern at top restaurants like Atelier Crenn, Eleven Madison Park, and The French Laundry.
But as the pool of high-level culinary talent in the U.S. has gotten shallower, these top-level restaurants are looking overseas for people to take leadership roles in San Francisco’s high-stakes fine dining scene. It’s not isolated to the city. An industrywide labor shortage started when scores of experienced cooks left restaurants after the pandemic, and it’s only set to worsen in the coming years. According to the Department of Labor Statistics, the need for chefs and head cooks is on pace to increase 8% between now and 2033, even as culinary school enrollment has steadily declined. The result? An international pipeline of culinary all-stars coming stateside via an O-1 visa, essentially a rare golden ticket designated for those “individuals with extraordinary ability.”
Although none would share specifics about how many chefs from outside the country are currently keeping the stoves hot in their kitchens, representatives from more than half a dozen Michelin-starred restaurants in the city confirmed they employ O-1 visa holders.
In the past five years, it’s become increasingly common, a spokesperson for one fine dining restaurant group says, though they declined to be interviewed on the record over concerns about attracting scrutiny on the company and its staff. It’s not an unfounded fear, considering the Trump administration’s continuing crackdown on immigrants, including visa holders. During his first term, the number of O-1 visas issued dipped below 10,000 in both 2020 and 2021 due to a mix of policies and the pandemic. A similar downturn could be devastating to the city’s high-end restaurants.
“They’re essential,” says one fine dining professional of these globetrotting chefs.
Most commonly, foreign chefs make their way to San Francisco restaurant kitchens through work-study exchange programs, which require a J-1 visa.
For ambitious young cooks, job opportunities for J-1 recipients are relatively abundant at places as casual as Australian-style coffee chain Bluestone Lane and as upscale as two-Michelin-starred Saison. But since the program is intended for students or recent graduates, restaurants are limited to only using it to fill entry-level positions with staff who can only stay up to a year.
That’s where the O-1 visa comes in. Minn Kim, founder and CEO of visa consultancy Lighthouse HQ, says that while this pathway has historically been associated with entertainment and sports superstars — think athletes like Lionel Messi and musicians like Justin Bieber — the O-1 program has increasingly been applied to people across a broad swath of fields. And while it’s not cheap (between fees for filing an application, expediting its processing, and hiring an attorney to help with it all, costs range from $5K to $15K), there’s no cap on how many can be issued.
“It is wildly underused,” Kim says, noting that while the number of O-1 visas issued annually has been steadily rising over the past two decades, the State Department still received just 20,669 applications in 2024, of which 19,457 were approved. Meanwhile, the department issued more than 300,000 J-1 visas last year.
That contrast is due in part to a lack of awareness, Kim says. While the highly competitive process of obtaining an H1-B visa, the largest visa program for skilled workers like software engineers, has been widely covered, conversations about the application process for O-1 visas have only just begun to gain momentum. In tech circles, O-1 visa holders have started sharing advice about how to glow up their application, which requires building a case that an individual is at the top of their field. For an academic, that might mean compiling a list of books and papers that have cited their research. For an actor, winning a BAFTA would help.
Outside of earning a Michelin star, it’s a bit trickier to show your work for someone who spends their days julienning vegetables and slow-roasting squab — essential kitchen duties, but not ones that usually attract accolades and outside attention. That means restaurant workers tend to rely on media coverage.
Articles about the award-winning restaurants where they’ve toiled can be useful, but applicants need to be specifically mentioned by name. Sometimes that means somewhat shamelessly pitching themselves to journalists. “I am trying to reach out to publishers and writers to get a small feature, mention, or anything of that sort,” wrote an O-1 visa applicant, who worked at a Michelin-starred SF restaurant for a year while on a J-1 visa that expired earlier this year. They’ve already lined up a job at a Michelin-starred restaurant in New York City — but need to secure a new visa to officially accept the job. Somewhat ironically, they declined to be interviewed for this story due to concerns it could jeopardize their application.
There are no hard and fast rules about soliciting coverage, according to Minn. One of the appealing features of the O-1 program is that applicants can essentially reverse-engineer an application that checks the boxes.
“You can build towards it, is how I describe it. Your candidacy is not static,” Minn says. “Everybody wants to go to Harvard, but not everybody’s eligible to go to Harvard. However, you can make yourself a better candidate.”
Thomas Etheve is in the middle of a concentrated attempt to improve his chances to continue to cook in San Francisco’s most elite kitchens.
On a recent Thursday afternoon, he stepped out of the kitchen at San Ho Won and slid into a wooden booth, wearing a hunter green apron over a plain white T-shirt with his long auburn hair twisted into a messy top-knot.
After being born and raised in a small port town on the French island of Réunion, Etheve moved to France at the age of 20 and started working in restaurant kitchens. It wasn’t long before he fell in love with the intense focus and artistry of fine dining, which led him to the United States in 2015.
Back then, he was on a J-1 visa, which helped him land a job working at three-Michelin-starred Benu, under chef Corey Lee. When his training year was up, he journeyed to Hong Kong, learning to work the charcoal grill at a lauded yakitori restaurant in Hong Kong.
Then in 2022, a manager from Lee’s restaurant group reached out to see if Etheve would be interested in coming to work at the company’s forthcoming upscale Korean barbecue restaurant San Ho Won, which has since won rave reviews and earned a Michelin star last year.
He had won the golden ticket as the sous chef de cuisine. Exemplifying San Francisco fine dining’s reliance on these highly skilled immigrants, he was able to work in the country under an O-2 visa, which is meant for support staff for O-1 visa holders. A musician on an O-1 visa might use an O-2 to bring along their producer, for example, or an athlete their trainer.
In Etheve’s case, his permit was tied to San Ho Wan executive chef Jeong-In Hwang, an immigrant from Korea. As his O-2 visa is set to expire in August, he’s hoping to get an O-1 of his own.
It’s his last, best effort to stay in the United States and continue honing his craft and creative voice as a chef. There are more opportunities here than if he were to return home to Réunion or mainland France. “If I go to France, I’m just a French guy doing French food,” he says. “Here, I’m learning different cooking techniques, different approaches.”
The denial of his visa application wouldn’t just be a setback for his culinary career. It’d be another small loss for the city’s already dwindling talent pool of top chefs.
San Francisco, CA
Claims in lawsuit against Great Highway park dismissed by San Francisco judge
SAN FRANCISCO – A San Francisco Superior Court judge dismissed claims in a lawsuit against Proposition K, the ballot measure that permanently cleared traffic from the Great Highway to make way for a two-mile park.
One advocacy group, Friends of Sunset Dunes, said the legal action affirmed Proposition K’s legal standing and called the lawsuit against the park “wasteful.”
Proposition K passed with more than 54% of the vote in November 2024, but the debate didn’t end there. The Sunset District supervisor was recalled in the aftermath of that vote by residents in the district who argued their streets would be flooded by traffic and that the decision by voters citywide to close a major thoroughfare in their area was out of touch with the local community.
What they’re saying:
Friends of Sunset Dunes hailed the judge’s decision in the lawsuit, Boschetto vs the City and County of San Francisco, as a victory.
“After two ballot measures, two lawsuits, three failed appeals, and dozens of hours of public meetings and untold administrative time and cost, this ruling affirms Proposition K’s legal foundation, and affirms the city’s authority to move forward in creating a permanent coastal park to serve future generations of San Franciscans,” the group said in a statement.
The group added that their volunteers are working to bring the coastal park to life. Meanwhile, “anti-park zealots continue to waste more public resources in their attempt to overturn the will of the people and close Sunset Dunes.”
“Now that they’ve lost two lawsuits and two elections, we invite them to accept the will of San Franciscans and work with us to make the most of our collective coastal park,” said Lucas Lux, president of Friends of Sunset Dunes.
The supervisor for the Sunset District, Alan Wong, doubled down on what he had stated earlier. In a statement on Monday, Wong said he is “prepared to support a ballot initiative to reopen the Great Highway and restore the original compromise.” The compromise he’s referring to is vehicles allowed to drive along the highway on weekdays and a closure to traffic on the weekends.
Wong, in his statement, added that he’s talked to constituents in his district across the political spectrum and that his values align with the majority of district 4 residents and organizations.
When he was sworn in last month, Wong indicated he was open to revisiting the issue of reopening the Great Highway to traffic. He also said he voted against Proposition K, which cleared the way and made Sunset Dunes official.
Engardio’s two-cents
Last September, Joel Engardio was recalled as the Sunset District supervisor in a special election. The primary reason for his ouster was his support of Sunset Dunes, the park which also saw the support of other prominent politicians, including former Mayor London Breed, former House Speaker Nancy Pelosi and State Senator Scott Wiener.
Engardio on Monday issued his own statement after the judge dismissed all claims in the lawsuit against Prop. K.
“It’s time to consider Sunset Dunes settled. Too many people have seen how the park is good for the environment, local businesses, and the physical and mental health of every visitor,” Engardio said. “Future generations will see this as a silly controversy because the park’s benefits far outweigh the fears of traffic jams that never happened. The coast belongs to everyone and it won’t be long before a majority everywhere will embrace the wonderful and magical Sunset Dunes.”
San Francisco, CA
Commentary: Let’s Do Better in 2026 – Streetsblog San Francisco
Editor’s note: special thanks to all our Streetsblog supporters! We fulfilled our 2025 fundraising goals. If you’d like to help us do even more, it’s not too late to donate.
I was on my way to dinner with friends on Christmas Eve when my westbound K Ingleside train was turned back at West Portal without explanation. I waited for the next train. It was turned back too. I asked one of the Muni drivers what was going on, and he said no M Ocean View or K Ingleside trains were running past the station.
I guessed it had something to do with the weather—the rain was coming down in sheets. I realized getting an Uber or Lyft at the station, with everybody else doing the same thing, probably wasn’t going to work. I had a good umbrella and rain coat so I started to walk down West Portal Avenue, ducking under awnings as I looked for a good spot to call a Lyft.
I didn’t get far before I saw why the trains were stopped, as seen in the lead photo.
I don’t know exactly how this blundering driver managed to bottom out his car on the barrier between the tracks. But, for me, it symbolized everything that’s wrong with San Francisco’s auto-uber-alles policies that continue to put the needs of individual drivers above buses and trains full of people. Mayor Lurie reiterated San Francisco’s supposed transit-first policy in his end-of-year directive. But if it’s a transit-first city, why are motorists still prioritized and permitted to drive on busy train tracks in the first place?
Why isn’t the barrier in West Portal positioned to keep drivers from using the tracks, as it was historically? Why do we even have pavement on the tracks? And why haven’t we banned drivers from using West Portal Avenue and Ulloa Street as thoroughfares in the first place, where they regularly interfere with and delay trains?
I should have stopped walking and summoned a Lyft. But being forced by the shitty politics of San Francisco, combined with a shitty driver, to call yet another car, pissed me off. I thought about all the people who got off those trains who can’t afford to call a ride-hail. I thought about the hundreds of people trapped inside trains that were stuck between stations. I continued walking and thinking about all the times I’ve visited Europe and been through similarly busy, vibrant merchant corridors such as West Portal with one major difference: no cars.
Yes, even on “car-free” streets in Europe, typically cars and delivery vehicles can still cross and access the shops directly for deliveries. But some streets are just not meant to be a motoring free-for-all. Anybody who doubts that merchants flourish in car-free and car-lite environments should either get a passport, or they should take a look at the merchant receipts after a Sunday Streets event. On the other hand, Papenhausen Hardware, which helped block a safety plan that prioritized transit movements through West Portal, went out of business anyway in 2024.
As I walked in the driving rain, my thoughts drifted to 2024’s tragedy, in which a reckless driver wiped out a family of four when she crashed onto a sidewalk in West Portal. San Francisco had an opportunity to finally implement a transit-first project and prevent a future tragedy by banning most drivers from the tracks and preventing them from using West Portal as a cut through. And yet, a supposedly safe-streets ally, Supervisor Myrna Melgar, aligned with a subset of the merchants in West Portal and sabotaged the project.
Since then, I’m aware of at least one other incident in West Portal where an errant driver went up on the sidewalk and hit a building. Thankfully, there wasn’t a family in the way that time. Either way, West Portal Avenue, and a whole lot of other streets that have hosted horrible tragedies, are still as dangerous as ever thanks to the lack of political commitment and an unwillingness to change.

I finally got to my friends’ house, 35 minutes later. They loaned me some dry clothes and put my jeans in the dryer. We had a lovely meal and a great time. My friend drove me to BART for an uneventful trip home (not that BART is always impervious to driver insanity).
In 2026, advocates, allies, and friends, we all need to raise the bar and find a way to make sure politicians follow through on transit first, Vision Zero, and making San Francisco safe. Because the half-assed improvements made in West Portal and elsewhere aren’t enough. And the status quo isn’t working.
On a closely related note, be sure to sign this petition, demanding that SFMTA finish the transit-only lanes on Ocean Avenue.
San Francisco, CA
Eagles react to facing the San Francisco 49ers in playoffs: ‘It’s going to be good on good’
What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think of the San Francisco 49ers, the Eagles’ first-round opponent in the playoffs?
“Got to stop their run, Christian McCaffrey,” Brandon Graham said.
It is where the game plan and film review starts for good reason. McCaffrey was second in the NFL during the regular season in yards from scrimmage with 2,126 (1,202 rushing yards, 924 receiving yards). The sixth-seeded 49ers next Sunday will bring to Lincoln Financial Field (4:30 p.m., Fox29) a high-powered offense with McCaffrey as the focal point, and a defense that is nothing like the one that helped San Francisco reach four NFC title games — and two Super Bowls — during a five-season stretch from 2019 to 2023.
Reactions from the Eagles inside their locker room after they fell, 24-17, to the Washington Commanders in their regular-season finale were pretty similar.
Graham didn’t know who the Eagles were playing until reporters told him. He had other things to worry about during the course of Sunday’s game since he dressed and played. But Reed Blankenship and Zack Baun, two defensive starters who had the night off, each expressed a similar mindset: “It doesn’t matter who we play,” Blankenship said. “We’re all excited. A lot of us had a week off and we’re ready to play. I feel like that was the best decision that coach made and I feel fresh. We don’t know when we’re going to play them, but whatever day it is, they got to come over here and come back to Philly.”
Said Baun: “It’s a big game. It’s the postseason. It’s the playoffs, and this team definitely turns it on in the playoffs.”
The Eagles and 49ers have some recent history. A mini rivalry of sorts formed after the Eagles blew out the banged-up 49ers in the NFC title game, 31-7, during their run to the Super Bowl at the end of the 2022 season. The 49ers exacted revenge just over 10 months later in a 42-19 victory that kick-started the Eagles’ miserable collapse to finish the 2023 season.
» READ MORE: Eagles’ first playoff loss was to karma. Next up: the 49ers.
During that latter game, McCaffrey rushed 17 times for 93 yards and a touchdown and added three catches for 40 yards.
“Christian McCaffrey is a dog,” Blankenship said. “We played them in ‘23 and then obviously in ‘22, so I played them twice. They have a really good offensive core and obviously it’s going to be a challenge. It’s the playoffs. Everybody is good. It’s going to be good on good. It’s win or go home, but we’re ready. We’re prepared for that. We’ve been through that.”
DeVonta Smith said the playoff opener is “just another game, but it’s the playoffs. We don’t want to go home, so everybody’s going to have a little more oomph.”
The 49ers have been bringing the oomph. They were 6-4 through 10 weeks and then won six consecutive games before falling, 13-3, Saturday night at home to Seattle against one of the best defenses in the NFL. They are 7-2 in games quarterback Brock Purdy has started.
The Eagles will likely be leaning on Saturday’s low-output offensive effort from the 49ers as they prepare for their first postseason matchup. Like top-seeded Seattle, the Eagles have one of the best defenses in the league, and while the Eagles’ offense has been inconsistent, San Francisco’s strength isn’t its defense. The 49ers gave up 38 points to Chicago last week and needed a red-zone stand to keep their hopes alive for the No. 1 seed. The Eagles, who opened as 3½-point favorites, probably feel their ability to take care of the ball and play good defense is the recipe for a win.
“We just got to be us and bring the energy,” Graham said. “Play fast on defense and put the offense in a great position. It’s going to be [about] field position in that game.
“I know the 49ers are going to definitely come here and try to get one on our field and we got to defend it.”
Blankenship and Baun both said they felt rested and ready for the postseason run. It was the obvious topic of conversation after the Eagles lost and missed out on a chance to secure the No. 2 seed in the conference. The Eagles chose rest over the possibility of moving up a spot, and Blankenship said he wasn’t going to look back with any regrets.
Nick Sirianni talked earlier in the week about his decision, and one of the things he pointed to was the Eagles resting their starters in Week 18 last season and entering the postseason healthy and rested.
Last season’s playoff run ended with a Lombardi Trophy and a parade on Broad Street. Why, despite the ups and downs, might this team have another run in them?
“I think we’re really ramping it up,” Baun said. “I feel like we’re in a good position as a team, as a collective. Especially as a defense, we’re playing really good football right now.”
It all starts next weekend.
“It’s a big game,” Baun said. “It’s the postseason. It’s the playoffs, and this team definitely turns it on in the playoffs.”
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