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Jimmy Carter shaped modern Alaska in profound, lasting ways

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Jimmy Carter shaped modern Alaska in profound, lasting ways


They burned him in effigy in Fairbanks. At the state fair dunk tank, they fired baseballs at pictures of him and the Ayatollah. But President Jimmy Carter shaped Alaska’s future so effectively that today, 44 years after passage of the epic conservation law that stirred pickets and protests, many Alaskans may wonder what the fuss was all about.

Alaska without the national parks and ever-wild landscapes that make it a world-famous travel destination? Unimaginable.

Jimmy Carter, who died Sunday at age 100, was the only U.S. president to hang a map of Alaska on the wall of the Oval Office. Judging by what he wrote about his later trips north — often just to fish, hike and birdwatch in the wilderness — it can probably be said that he was not only the president with the biggest impact on Alaska but also the one with the deepest love for the state.

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The law that Carter called his greatest domestic achievement, and the source of so much controversy here, was the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, or ANILCA, which Carter signed into law on Dec. 2, 1980, as one of the last acts of his presidency. The law doubled the size of the national park and refuge systems, protected 25 wild rivers and classified 56 million acres of Alaska as wilderness. It was also the basis for federal protection of rural subsistence hunting and fishing.

The lock-up law would be the ruin of Alaska — so said the dominant voices of Alaska politics and business. They fought the proposed measure for a decade, arguing that it would close off mining, oil drilling, logging and other economic opportunities. The protest howls were loudest in 1978, when the president unilaterally created 55 million acres of national monuments in Alaska because Congress had thus far failed to act.

For the national environmental movement cresting in the 1970s, on the other hand, Carter fit the moment. Officials in his own administration shook their heads at the president’s unusual level of engagement with small details of the Alaska bill. Insider accounts of those years say Carter’s love for the natural world was driven above all by the Sunday school piety that later shaped the good deeds for which his ex-presidency became known.

“I have never been happier, more exhilarated, at peace, rested, inspired, and aware of the grandeur of the universe and the greatness of God than when I find myself in a natural setting not much changed from the way He made it,” Carter wrote in his 1988 book about his experiences in nature, “An Outdoor Journal.” The book includes a chapter on Alaska.

• • •

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Jimmy Carter entered the White House at the moment in history when Congress was carving up Alaska’s vast federal lands, a process that included the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act (1971) and the Trans-Alaska Pipeline authorization (1973). The Native claims act gave Congress until 1978 to do something about conservation lands in Alaska.

Headlines from those years featured the once-familiar names of politicians now passing into history books — Mo Udall, John Seiberling, Scoop Jackson, and the state’s conservation-minded Republican governor, Jay Hammond, along with its fractious congressional delegation: Ted Stevens, Mike Gravel, Don Young. All gone now.

Historian Stephen Haycox, in his book “Battleground Alaska,” describes how the myth of Alaska unanimity was undermined at congressional hearings in Alaska in 1977, when half the people who showed up in Anchorage and Fairbanks testified in support of preserving wilderness. Stevens and Young dismissed those conservation advocates as “not real Alaskans” — a challenge to political legitimacy no longer flung around the 49th state with the same vigor, after four decades of in-migration and demographic shifts.

Anger at Carter nevertheless reached its peak here in 1978, when the president invoked the Antiquities Act to create national monuments in Alaska. Carter called it a placeholder move, shielding land from development until Congress passed permanent protection. Protesters called it tyranny. Government rangers showed up in a few rural communities and were shunned. Loggers and mining claim holders and hunting guides studied the maps with dismay. Politicians ridiculed the idea that Alaska’s wilderness was the kind of antiquity meant to be protected by the 1906 law. The national monument declaration was deemed the ultimate “federal overreach.”

But Carter’s strategy, developed with his Interior secretary, former Idaho Gov. Cecil Andrus, forced Congress back to work. Despite the ear-burning rhetoric, Alaska’s leading Republicans, Stevens and Hammond, worked on the inside to find a compromise rather than get run over.

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Stuart Eizenstat, Carter’s chief domestic adviser, has described a meeting where Stevens came to the White House to argue about a proposed park boundary. Carter unrolled detailed maps on the Oval Office floor and, on his hands and knees, pointed out how the watershed in question didn’t flow the way Stevens thought.

By the summer of 1980, the House had passed a strong bill backed by conservationists, while a compromise bill supported by Stevens had passed the Senate. The two sides were still far apart.

One night that July, Carter landed in Anchorage on Air Force One, on his way back from meetings in Japan. Hammond and the director of his sportfish division had arranged a quick fishing trip for the president. In his diary, Carter described how the trout streams were blown out by rain so they flew in a helicopter to fish grayling in a lake and its outlet. He was thrilled that a tiny “Irresistible” fly he tied himself outfished the Alaska guides, who gathered around to see what he was using.

Four months later, Ronald Reagan clobbered Carter in the presidential election. The nation’s swing to the right settled the fate of ANILCA. The House in its lame-duck session accepted the Senate version of the bill, so Carter could sign the finished product before he left office.

The new law protected 104 million acres of Alaska in various conservation categories — nearly a third of the state.

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In the years to come, the law’s evolving set of rules would continue to generate headlines in Alaska over cultural touchstones — everything from the fishwheel of Katie John to the bulldozer of Papa Pilgrim.

Even so, the overarching bitterness of the 1970s appears to have faded among the general public. For one thing, few of Alaska’s current residents have personal memories of the fight. The state Department of Labor recently ran a check to see how many current Permanent Fund dividend applicants also applied as adults in 1982, the first year of the dividend program. The answer: less than 12%.

Moreover, a booming tourism industry has transformed Alaska, with 2.5 million visitors spending nearly $3 billion here in 2019, the last pre-pandemic year, according to the Alaska Travel Industry Association.

The town of Seward was the first to execute a political turnaround, quickly warming to the draw of their new neighbor, Kenai Fjords National Park. By 1990, the summer sugar-high of tourist dollars had so transformed the town that the newly arrived chamber of commerce director, asked why Seward old-timers once opposed the national park, guessed that the naysayers must have been “people who have the habit of being opposed to development of all kinds” — unwittingly reversing Don Young’s old complaint about posy-sniffing environmentalists.

“Tourists now bring in more wealth to the state than fishing or timber,” Carter said in 2000, when he visited Anchorage for ANILCA’s 20-year commemoration. But he cautioned against over-tourism: The visitors weren’t coming here to see the backs of the necks of other tourists filing off cruise ships. “They come to find a different form of human pleasure and enjoyment — solitude, beauty, and sights that are not available to a Georgian or to a person from New Mexico or Maine or Ohio or Texas.”

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On that same visit, Carter made a pitch for protecting the coastal plain of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge from oil development. It was the biggest piece of unfinished ANILCA business, and still politically hot. The pitch prompted Gov. Tony Knowles, a fellow Democrat, to snub the former president during that visit.

The ANWR coastal plain was finally pried open to oil leasing during the Trump administration. But the long-ballyhooed oil rush has failed to materialize so far, in the face of continued opposition and rising global concerns over burning and tapping new sources of fossil fuels.

Even the dual federal-state management of subsistence fish and game, once deemed impossible and unsustainable, has endured despite decades of lawsuits and political initiatives.

• • •

To be sure, some conflicts around Carter’s legislative legacy remain. The state, for example, has pushed to extend its predator control programs into the national preserves created by ANILCA.

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A particularly hard knot to untie has been the proposed road through Izembek National Wildlife Refuge. Conservationists argue that the isthmus of land between the isolated communities of King Cove and Cold Bay was set aside as wilderness under ANILCA, and that no president can trade it away for a road corridor.

In 2022, when a federal court temporarily upheld a Trump-era land swap to allow the road, Carter himself took the extraordinary step — as a 97-year-old ex-president — of jumping into the appeal, filing an amicus brief on his own behalf.

“My name is Jimmy Carter,” he wrote to the appeals court. “In my lifetime, I have been a farmer, a naval officer, a Sunday school teacher, an outdoorsman, a democracy activist, a builder, governor of Georgia and recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize. And from 1977 to 1981, I had the privilege of serving as the 39th president of the United States.”

Carter argued that the bill he signed into law struck a final balance between conservation and development. Congress did not intend for future administrations to re-balance those concerns according to their own changing priorities. There is no “get out of ANILCA free” pass, he said.

The case was dismissed when the Biden administration dropped the old road plan, leaving the legal question unresolved. Discussions over the road continue.

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Most of Carter’s trips back to Alaska after his presidency were not political. One time he traveled with his wife, Rosalynn, to stand in the midst of a vast caribou herd on the Arctic coastal plain. He especially relished a 1985 trip with his 9-year-old grandson. They spent a week in the Iliamna Lake region at a fishing lodge.

In the Alaska chapter of “An Outdoor Journal,” the former president recalled campfire conversations on that trip with Alaskans worried about changes to their way of life. He also devoted a dozen paragraphs to the hooking, chasing and landing of a 12-pound rainbow on a tiny #10 yellow stonefly nymph.

The book ends with a return to Carter’s family cabin and a description of the cycles of nature in the mountains of north Georgia. In the face of his own mortality, Carter wrote, he found reassurance there in “God’s miraculous creation” and the words of Ecclesiastes:

“A generation goes and a generation comes, But the earth remains forever.”

Former Anchorage Daily News reporter Tom Kizzia is the author of “Cold Mountain Path,” “Pilgrim’s Wilderness” and “The Wake of the Unseen Object.”

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• • •

Read more:

Jimmy Carter, the 39th US president, has died at 100

11 facts about Jimmy Carter that may surprise you

Jimmy Carter: Many evolutions for a centenarian ‘citizen of the world’

Jimmy Carter, a man of implacable faith, lived his values

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His work after the White House made Jimmy Carter a standout





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Alaska

Governor Dunleavy Names Stephen Cox his new Counsel to the Governor – Mike Dunleavy

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Governor Mike Dunleavy today announced the appointment of Stephen Cox as his new Counsel to the Governor. The appointment comes after the legislature’s decision to not confirm him as attorney general, despite his extensive legal and public policy experience and proven record of defending Alaska’s interests both at home and on the national level. Cox’s responsibilities will be to advise Governor Dunleavy on a wide range of legal, regulatory, and constitutional matters affecting the State of Alaska.

Governor Dunleavy also appointed Cori Mills acting attorney general for the Alaska Department of Law. Mills has been with the department for 14 years and most recently served as deputy attorney general.

“Stephen Cox has a strong understanding of Alaska law and the challenges facing our state,” said Governor Dunleavy. “His experience, professionalism, and commitment to public service make him a valuable asset as Counsel to the Governor. I look forward to working with Stephen as we continue advancing policies that strengthen Alaska’s economy, uphold the rule of law, and serve the people of our state.”

As Counsel to the Governor, Cox will continue to work closely with the Department of Law and other executive branch departments to provide counsel on policy initiatives, legislation, and executive actions.

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“I am honored to serve Governor Dunleavy and the people of Alaska in this new role,” said Stephen Cox. “I look forward to continue supporting the administration’s efforts to promote responsible resource development, governance and opportunities for Alaskans across the state.”

Cox assumes his new role effective today.



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Why Juneau should be on every Alaska traveler’s bucket list

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Why Juneau should be on every Alaska traveler’s bucket list



Juneau blends towering glaciers, the Tongass National Forest and rich Indigenous culture.

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Juneau, Alaska, is the only U.S. state capital not accessible by road — a remoteness that adds to its magic and appeal.

Nestled between mountains, rainforest, and the waters of the Inside Passage, Juneau combines Alaska Native heritage, Gold Rush history, and some of the state’s most spectacular scenery.

Visitors can watch humpback whales surface offshore, ride a tram above downtown, stand face-to-face with or even on Mendenhall Glacier, a river of ice flowing from the vast Juneau Icefield. Surrounded by the Tongass National Forest — the world’s largest temperate rainforest — Juneau offers a quintessential Alaska experience where nature feels immense, and adventure begins just minutes from the cruise dock.

Why Juneau matters

Long before prospectors arrived in search of gold, the area now known as Juneau was home to the Áak’w Kwáan, whose name for this place — Áakʼw, often translated as “little lake” — reflects a deep connection to the surrounding land and water.

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Russia later expanded into Alaska through the fur trade, bringing Orthodox missionaries, new trade networks, and profound cultural change to Indigenous communities across the region. Though Juneau rose to prominence during the Gold Rush and became the territorial capital after the United States purchased Alaska in 1867, the city still bears traces of both worlds.

As the nation approaches its 250th anniversary, Juneau offers visitors a richer understanding of America’s layered history — one that’s shaped by Native stewardship, Russian influence, and the enduring resilience of southeast Alaska’s Indigenous peoples.

What to see today

The star attraction is Mendenhall Glacier, a 13.6-mile-long glacier that descends from the Juneau Icefield into a turquoise lake.

Easy trails lead to roaring Nugget Falls, while boardwalks along Steep Creek offer chances to spot spawning salmon and black bears. Back downtown, colorful floatplanes skim the harbor and the Mount Roberts Tramway lifts visitors above the city for sweeping views of Gastineau Channel and the surrounding mountains.  

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One of Juneau’s most whimsical attractions is Glacier Gardens Rainforest Adventure, tucked into the Tongass rainforest just outside downtown.

Locals and visitors alike love the upside-down trees known as “Flower Towers” — massive spruce trunks planted root-side up, bursting with colorful blooms. The display is a unique (and accidental) creation of master gardener Steve Bowhay.

It’s an eccentric sight that feels uniquely Alaskan, blending lush rainforest scenery with a touch of horticultural imagination.  

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Haines Quick Shop reopens after burning down in 2024

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Haines Quick Shop reopens after burning down in 2024


Last Friday evening in Haines, there was only one place to be: The brand new Quick Shop, a shiny new building stocked with everything from ice cream and gun safes to an entire row of Xtratuf boots.

It seemed that much of town was packed into the building on the Haines’ waterfront — the store had just reopened after burning down more than a year ago.

The October 2024 fire destroyed a string of apartments and businesses including the convenience, liquor and sporting goods shop known collectively as the Quick Shop.

“It’s a big day for our town,” Haines Mayor Tom Morphet shouted from the checkout line that stretched through the store.

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Minutes after opening, some 50 people were already in line, with dozens more milling about. Many kids’ arms were piled high with goodies.

Further back in the store, owner Mike Ward was busy scanning toilet paper amid the chaos. In between greeting customers, and accepting their congratulations, he said it’s been a long road to get here.

“It’s a relief to finally be open,” Ward said. “But we got a lot of work ahead of us, so it’s not that much of a relief.”

Ward said he aims to have the store fully stocked and in order by the fire’s two-year anniversary on Oct. 5. He added that he rebuilt as quickly as possible because he had heard a larger convenience chain was thinking about moving into Haines.

“So that’s one of the major reasons why I got aggressive, right?” he said. “I didn’t even think about taking the money.”

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But the money part hasn’t been easy. Ward had insurance, but his policy didn’t come close to covering rebuilding costs – or the $1.8 million in inventory that also went up in flames.

“I got hosed,” he said. “I took a $2.5 million loss.”

The loss was felt in the community, too. Haines’ grocery stores close by 8 p.m. most days, and even earlier on Sundays. The Quick Shop is open until midnight.

“I feel like not having anywhere to get food late at night is pretty hard for people. So I feel like everyone’s pretty excited to have it back,” said local Ryan Irvin, who worked on the crew that built the facility.

He added that it’s cool – and somewhat novel – for the community to have a space that was actually built for its purpose.

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“We’re always retrofitting old buildings, making them work. But this is actually designed for what we’re doing, what Mike’s doing, rather,” Irvin said.

Morphet, the mayor, echoed that point. He said the new store is a testament to Ward’s faith in Haines’ capacity to keep it open.

“We’re only 2,000, 2,500 people here, so it’s kind of a shot in the arm to town morale,” Morphet said. “People like the town to have nice stuff, and this is beautiful.”



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