Alaska

Crammed with tourists, Alaska’s capital wonders what will happen as its magnificent glacier recedes

Published

1 year ago

August 6, 2023

Crammed with tourists, Alaska’s capital wonders what will happen as its magnificent glacier recedes

JUNEAU, Alaska (AP) — Thousands of tourists spill onto a boardwalk in Alaska’s capital city every day from cruise ships towering over downtown. Vendors hawk shoreside trips and rows of buses stand ready to whisk visitors away, with many headed for the area’s crown jewel: the Mendenhall Glacier.

A craggy expanse of gray, white and blue, the glacier gets swarmed by sightseeing helicopters and attracts visitors by kayak, canoe and foot. So many come to see the glacier and Juneau’s other wonders that the city’s immediate concern is how to manage them all as a record number are expected this year. Some residents flee to quieter places during the summer, and a deal between the city and cruise industry will limit how many ships arrive next year.

But climate change is melting the Mendenhall Glacier. It is receding so quickly that by 2050, it might no longer be visible from the visitor center it once loomed outside.

That’s prompted another question Juneau is only now starting to contemplate: What happens then?

“We need to be thinking about our glaciers and the ability to view glaciers as they recede,” said Alexandra Pierce, the city’s tourism manager. There also needs to be a focus on reducing environmental impacts, she said. “People come to Alaska to see what they consider to be a pristine environment and it’s our responsibility to preserve that for residents and visitors.”

The glacier pours from rocky terrain between mountains into a lake dotted by stray icebergs. Its face retreated eight football fields between 2007 and 2021, according to estimates from University of Alaska Southeast researchers. Trail markers memorialize the glacier’s backward march, showing where the ice once stood. Thickets of vegetation have grown in its wake.

While massive chunks have broken off, most ice loss has come from the thinning due to warming temperatures, said Eran Hood, a University of Alaska Southeast professor of environmental science. The Mendenhall has now largely receded from the lake that bears its name.

Scientists are trying to understand what the changes might mean for the ecosystem, including salmon habitat.

There are uncertainties for tourism, too.

Most people enjoy the glacier from trails across Mendenhall Lake near the visitor center. Caves of dizzying blues that drew crowds several years ago have collapsed and pools of water now stand where one could once step from the rocks onto the ice.

Manoj Pillai, a cruise ship worker from India, took pictures from a popular overlook on a recent day off.

“If the glacier is so beautiful now, how would it be, like, 10 or 20 years before? I just imagine that,” he said.

Officials with the Tongass National Forest, under which the Mendenhall Glacier Recreation Area falls, are bracing for more visitors over the next 30 years even as they contemplate a future when the glacier slips from casual view.

The agency is proposing new trails and parking areas, an additional visitor center and public use cabins at a lakeside campground. Researchers do not expect the glacier to disappear completely for at least a century.

“We did talk about, ‘Is it worth the investment in the facilities if the glacier does go out of sight?’” said Tristan Fluharty, the forest’s Juneau district ranger. “Would we still get the same amount of visitation?”

A thundering waterfall that is a popular place for selfies, salmon runs, black bears and trails could continue attracting tourists when the glacier is not visible from the visitor center, but “the glacier is the big draw,” he said.

Around 700,000 people are expected to visit this year, with about 1 million projected by 2050.

Other sites offer a cautionary tale. Annual visitation peaked in the 1990s at around 400,000 to the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center, southeast of Anchorage, with the Portage Glacier serving as a draw. But now, on clear days, a sliver of the glacier remains visible from the center, which was visited by about 30,000 people last year, said Brandon Raile, a spokesperson with the Chugach National Forest, which manages the site. Officials are discussing the center’s future, he said.

“Where do we go with the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center?” Raile said. “How do we keep it relevant as we go forward when the original reason for it being put there is not really relevant anymore?”

At the Mendenhall, rangers talk to visitors about climate change. They aim to “inspire wonder and awe but also to inspire hope and action,” said Laura Buchheit, the forest’s Juneau deputy district ranger.

After pandemic-stunted seasons, about 1.6 million cruise passengers are expected in Juneau this year, during a season stretching from April through October.

The city, nestled in a rainforest, is one stop on what are generally week-long cruises to Alaska beginning in Seattle or Vancouver, British Columbia. Tourists can leave the docks and move up the side of a mountain in minutes via a popular tram, see bald eagles perch on light posts and enjoy a vibrant Alaska Native arts community.

On the busiest days, about 20,000 people, equal to two-thirds of the city’s population, pour from the boats.

City leaders and major cruise lines agreed to a daily five-ship limit for next year. But critics worry that won’t ease congestion if the vessels keep getting bigger. Some residents would like one day a week without ships. As many as seven ships a day have arrived this year.

Juneau Tours and Whale Watch is one of about two dozen companies with permits for services like transportation or guiding at the glacier. Serene Hutchinson, the company’s general manager, said demand has been so high that she neared her allotment halfway through the season. Shuttle service to the glacier had to be suspended, but her business still offers limited tours that include the glacier, she said.

Other bus operators are reaching their limits, and tourism officials are encouraging visitors to see other sites or get to the glacier by different means.

Limits on visitation can benefit tour companies by improving the experience rather than having tourists “shoehorned” at the glacier, said Hutchinson, who doesn’t worry about Juneau losing its luster as the glacier recedes.

“Alaska does the work for us, right?” she said. “All we have to do is just kind of get out of the way and let people look around and smell and breathe.”

Pierce, Juneau’s tourism manager, said discussions are just beginning around what a sustainable southeast Alaska tourism industry should look like.

In Sitka, home to a slumbering volcano, the number of cruise passengers on a day earlier this summer exceeded the town’s population of 8,400, overwhelming businesses, dragging down internet speeds and prompting officials to question how much tourism is too much.

Juneau plans to conduct a survey that could guide future growth, such as building trails for tourism companies.

Kerry Kirkpatrick, a Juneau resident of nearly 30 years, recalls when the Mendenhall’s face was “long across the water and high above our heads.” She called the glacier a national treasure for its accessibility and noted an irony in carbon-emitting helicopters and cruise ships chasing a melting glacier. She worries the current level of tourism isn’t sustainable.

As the Mendenhall recedes, plants and animals will need time to adjust, she said.

So will humans.

“There’s too many people on the planet wanting to do the same things,” Kirkpatrick said. “You don’t want to be the person who closes the door and says, you know, ‘I’m the last one in and you can’t come in.’ But we do have to have the ability to say, ‘No, no more.’”

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Alaska

'Once in a lifetime experience': This was the absolute highlight on a visit to Alaska

Published

21 mins ago

November 22, 2024

Press Room

'Once in a lifetime experience': This was the absolute highlight on a visit to Alaska

Alaska is one of those places that’s impossible to visit just once. I’ve barely returned from my first taste of this untamed beauty and already I’m planning my next trip.

On our Norwegian Cruise Line 7-Day Alaska Round-Trip, we spend a week cruising and touring Alaska’s famed Southwest region taking in the ports of Sitka, Juneau, Icy Strait Point, Dawes Glacier, and Ketchikan.

Here is your guide on what to see, what to do, and skip in the Last Frontier state.

READ MORE: Perfect way to avoid the crowds in the Northern Territory

Already planning our next trip to Alaska. (Nine/Supplied)

Sitka

Once Alaska’s first capital city, this dreamy town pretty much jams the best of Alaskan experiences into one place. Spawning salmon jumping upstream, check. Bears catching said salmon, check. Remote and stunning fjords. Check.Check.Check!

I booked myself on tour here to ensure I got the most out of my time. First we visited the Fortress Of The Bears, a sanctuary for orphaned brown and black bears. This is a popular tourist spot as you are guaranteed to see their resident bears.

READ MORE: ‘How a trip to Cambodia completely changed how I holiday’

Take a look onboard Norwegian Cruise Line’s brand new ship

After this close encounter, we cruised along the silent and glassy inlet waters to Silver Bay homestead where we feasted on S’Mores and hot chocolate as we learned about the local area and history. We were also lucky enough to see a bear near the local salmon hatchery fishing from the shore. What a privilege to see these magnificent creatures in the wilderness.

bears in alaska — Saw some bears doing their thing. (Supplied/Nine)

Be sure to leave yourself enough time to wander through town too and do the totem pole walking tour through the Sitka Historical Park. For some added spice, there are regular “beware of bears” signs to keep you on your toes and on the lookout!

For movie buffs, I hate to break it to you, but Sandra Bullock’s rom com hit, The Proposal, was “based” here, but was actually filmed in the United States. Our bus driver told us a few aerial shots may have been used, but that was about it.

And if you are at the cruise ship terminal you HAVE to try the roasted nuts from a local store aptly named Sitka Nuts. We barrelled through two bags of cashews and almonds. A must!

Norwegian Bliss Endicott Arm, Alaska 2018 — Norwegian Cruise Line’s 7-Day Alaska Round-Trip was full of highlights. (©Danny Lehman)

Juneau

Juneau is the capital of Alaska. It’s both a mountain town and a coastal city surrounded by incredible beauty, wildlife and with a deep Native American history.

As soon as you step off your ship, there’s a dizzying array of tours on offer, the highlight of which is a trip to the famous Mendenhall Glacier about 15 minutes out of town by shuttle. While the tourist centre was packed, we had a drizzly day, so the trails to the glacier lookout and the nearby waterfall are relaxed and easy to navigate. I’d give yourselves about two hours out here, unless you’re up for a longer hike.

Back in town, there’s a long line out the front of tourist hotspot Tracy’s Crab Shack and it’s standing room only at the Red Dog Saloon. Line up early if they take your fancy. We took photos out the front and instead spent our time strolling around town.

We made a beeline for their famous fudge shops (this will be a common theme throughout this article!), bought some great souvenirs in the Alaskan Brewing Co and I can highly recommend Jellyfish Donuts. Also, the shuttle drivers in Alaska are the absolute best. Full of knowledge, hilariously bad jokes, and pride for their hometowns.

The Endicott Glacier on the inside passage of an Alaska cruise — This was the highlight of our trip to Alaska. (Getty)

Endicott Arm and Dawes Glacier

This was the highlight of our trip to Alaska. The weather gods were smiling as we made our way down the glacier carved fjord of Endicott Arm. This is National Geographic worthy. Sheer granite cliffs that tower above our 20 deck ship. Water so green you keep taking your sunglasses on and off to ensure it’s not a trick of the lenses. Chunks of glaciers float by. Can this be real? Am I actually here?

Then after miles and miles of quiet cruising, you see her. The Dawes Glacier. 600 feet tall and half a mile wide. Even from a distance she’s magnificent. Rug up and grab a spot on the upper decks to truly appreciate nature in all her glory.

This is a once in a lifetime experience not to be missed.

Ketchikan

Ketchikan is the southernmost entrance to Alaska’s famed Inside Passage and is everything you hope an Alaskan city will be. Famed for its beautiful scenery, its world famous salmon and Native American history.

If your time is limited, stroll around Creek Street and the downtown historic district. There are also more than 80 totem poles dotted around Ketchikan. And yes, more fudge to be consumed too!

When we docked, we opted for the George Inlet Fjords Safari. Now this is an action packed day! Start your engines as you drive your own UTVs through the Alaskan wilderness. The scenery is stunning. You may even spot a bear or two on your adventures. You then board a sightseeing vessel that will deliver you to the charming George Inlet Lodge where you’ll sit by the water as you feast on fresh Dungeness crab and sample local craft beers. I am not normally a seafood eater, but the crab chowder was irresistible. So were the beers!

These Alaskan cruise stops are just a sample of what awaits on your journey to the Last Frontier. I’m already planning to return to explore more and maybe buy some more fudge.

This writer travelled as a guest of NCL. The cruise line offers four ships (Bliss, Encore, Joy, Jade) from three departure ports – Seattle, Vancouver, Whittier – to explore the region, with an extended season from April to October, providing the opportunity to see Northern Lights.

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Alaska

Alaska senator highlights truck drivers hauling Capitol Christmas Tree to D.C.

Published

8 hours ago

November 22, 2024

Press Room

Alaska senator highlights truck drivers hauling Capitol Christmas Tree to D.C.

ANCHORAGE, Alaska (KTUU) – Alaska Sen. Dan Sullivan welcomed Americans to enjoy the massive Sitka spruce that is currently making its way to the nation’s capitol by truck and praised the two drivers hauling the 85-foot tall tree.

In his weekly “Alaskan of the Week” address on the floor of the U.S. Senate on Thursday, Sullivan spent about 15 minutes explaining how the Capitol Christmas Tree — taken from the Tongass National Forest near the Southeast Alaska community of Wrangell — was selected and how it’s being transported nearly 5,000 miles to be put on display in Washington D.C.

The duo of Fred Austin of North Pole and John Shank of Fairbanks have been part of that journey. Austin is 89 years old and has driven commercially for 71 years, while Shank is about to hit 50 years driving for Lynden Transport.

Together, the duo have logged over 10 million miles of driving trucks in their career.

Sullivan said the two will have driven through 12 states and 17 towns across the country before making it to D.C. on Friday.

See a spelling or grammar error? Report it to web@ktuu.com

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Alaska

OPINION: VPSO growth strengthens Alaska public safety

Published

18 hours ago

November 21, 2024

Press Room

OPINION: VPSO growth strengthens Alaska public safety

By James Hoelscher

Updated: 34 seconds ago Published: 19 minutes ago

vpso crop generic village public safety officer (Loren Holmes / ADN)

Under Gov. Mike Dunleavy’s leadership and with reliable funding from the Alaska Legislature, Alaska’s Village Public Safety Officer (VPSO) program has experienced substantial growth, reflecting Alaska’s commitment to public safety across its communities. The number of VPSOs working in our remote communities was once at 42 officers in January 2020 and has grown to a current total of 79, along with the introduction of Regional Public Safety Officers (RPSOs) and competitive wage adjustments, the VPSO program has become more robust and better equipped to serve the needs of rural Alaska.

This increase in officer numbers is a significant accomplishment, expanding the safety network across Alaska’s rural communities. Each new VPSO represents not only an additional first responder but also a vital resource for residents in need of emergency response, search and rescue, and community safety support. By nearly doubling the number of officers in just a few years, the program has strengthened statewide readiness and improved the capacity to address Alaska’s unique rural challenges.

A key initiative supporting this growth has been the addition of Regional Public Safety Officers (RPSOs). RPSOs enhance the effectiveness of local VPSOs by providing a layer of specialized regional support, acting as a resource that multiple communities can rely on in times of need. They can respond quickly with the Alaska State Troopers to large-scale incidents, provide backup to VPSOs during demanding situations, and share essential resources across multiple villages. This novel regional approach ensures that communities have comprehensive public safety coverage including their local VPSO, regional RPSO, and the Alaska State Troopers.

Another major factor in the VPSO program’s expansion has been the increase in wages, making the role more competitive and sustainable as a career. Recognizing the high costs of living and the challenges of public safety work in rural Alaska, recent adjustments to VPSO compensation have made these positions more appealing to qualified candidates and have strengthened officer retention. This increase underscores the commitment required of VPSOs, who serve as the primary responders for some of Alaska’s most isolated communities. By offering competitive pay, the program attracts skilled individuals committed to public safety, building a more dedicated workforce equipped to serve Alaska’s rural residents.

These improvements in staffing, regional support through RPSOs, and wage enhancements have created a VPSO program that is more resilient and adaptable than ever before. VPSOs provide critical services to safeguard the well-being of residents, and the increased investment in personnel and resources underscores Alaska’s dedication to supporting its rural communities.

Looking ahead, the VPSO program will continue to focus on these priorities to ensure that Alaska’s rural communities have the support they need. We remain committed to working closely with Dunleavy, the Legislature, the regional VPSO grantees and Alaska’s villages to ensure that every village that wants a VPSO can have a VPSO.

James Hoelscher is currently the director of the Alaska Department of Public Safety’s Village Public Safety Officer Operations Division. He previously worked as the chief of police in the Village of Hooper Bay, as a Village Public Safety Officer in Hooper Bay, and for the Alaska Alcohol and Marijuana Control Office.

The views expressed here are the writer’s and are not necessarily endorsed by the Anchorage Daily News, which welcomes a broad range of viewpoints. To submit a piece for consideration, email commentary(at)adn.com. Send submissions shorter than 200 words to letters@adn.com or click here to submit via any web browser. Read our full guidelines for letters and commentaries here.

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