Science
A wave of major listeria recalls shows food safety will 'never be perfect'
Deli meats, grab-and-go salads and frozen meals are staples of the modern American diet — convenient and inexpensive options that shoppers readily toss into their carts during grocery runs.
But after hundreds of those products were flagged in major listeria-related recalls recently, nervous consumers have been left to scour their refrigerators for potentially tainted food as government inspectors try to piece together how the problems began.
Listeria contamination at a BrucePac processing plant this month and a deadly multistate outbreak linked to Boar’s Head liverwurst over the summer led to the sweeping recalls. All told, about 20 million pounds of meat and poultry products sold nationwide at Trader Joe’s, Walmart, Target, Ralphs and other businesses were affected, highlighting the public health challenges that come with producing food for the mass market despite significant advancements in sanitizing and testing.
“The messages that go out to consumers typically are, ‘We have the safest food supply in the world,’” said Barbara Kowalcyk, director of the Institute for Food Safety and Nutrition Security at George Washington University. “What these back-to-back recalls show is we aren’t where we thought we were.”
Although listeria has been the culprit in many food scares lately — on Friday, TreeHouse Foods issued a recall for hundreds of frozen waffle and pancake products for potential contamination — food safety experts said the string of incidents is merely coincidence.
“There’s no evidence at all to suggest that our food supply is less safe than before — in fact, I would argue for the opposite,” said Martin Bucknavage, a senior food safety extension associate at Pennsylvania State University’s Department of Food Science.
The safety of mass-produced food has improved dramatically in the last three decades, experts noted, thanks to better sanitization procedures, increased regulation and the use of technologies such as whole genome sequencing to help detect pathogens quickly.
But listeria, a common and stubbornly persistent type of bacterium, presents unique hurdles.
Unlike many other foodborne pathogens, it thrives in the cool, damp conditions found in processing plants. Unsanitary facilities can cause contamination, but the bacteria can also be introduced through raw ingredients, water, soil tracked into a plant on a worker’s shoe and even incoming air, said Brian Schaneberg, executive director at the Institute for Food Safety and Health at Illinois Institute of Technology.
“It is ubiquitous in the environment,” he said.
Making things worse, listeria can spread easily if food comes into contact with contaminated surfaces and multiply rapidly despite aggressive cleaning and sanitizing, according to the USDA. Listeria has been found in products including cold cuts, hot dogs, sausages, unpasteurized milk, soft cheeses, smoked seafood and raw vegetables and fruits.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Food Safety and Inspection Service has jurisdiction over the safety of meat, poultry and egg products. It requires manufacturers to develop and implement systems to prevent and reduce the occurrence and numbers of pathogens on their products and to decrease the incidence of foodborne illness.
Meat and poultry processing facilities are checked by federal inspectors at least once during every shift that a plant is in operation, according to a Food Safety and Inspection Service spokesperson.
For their part, food companies take preventive measures such as requiring workers to cover their shoes or step onto sanitized mats or into disinfecting foot baths whenever they enter a facility, and change their disposable aprons and gloves when moving from one production line to another.
They also conduct their own in-house testing, which can include extensive swabbing of surfaces, raw ingredients, finished products and areas where listeria is known to thrive, such as floor drains.
“No company wants to have an issue like this,” Bucknavage said, referring to the recent spate of recalls. Listeria’s ability to adapt and proliferate under varied conditions means “it’s an ongoing battle,” especially at large food-processing establishments like BrucePac, which churns out precooked, ready-to-eat meat and poultry products in huge quantities.
“You’ve got chicken juices, you’ve got people moving around, you have a lot of different types of equipment,” he said. “All of that has to be controlled down to the microbiological level.”
BrucePac and Boar’s Head did not respond to requests seeking information on how they conducted their safety tests before the recalls.
Every year an estimated 48 million people get sick from a foodborne illness, 128,000 are hospitalized and 3,000 die, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, which typically coordinates 17 to 36 investigations in multiple states each week.
Consumption of food contaminated with listeria can lead to listeriosis, a serious infection that primarily affects adults 65 and older, people with weakened immune systems, pregnant women and newborns. Symptoms include fever, muscle aches, headache, stiff neck, confusion, loss of balance and convulsions sometimes preceded by diarrhea or other gastrointestinal issues. It is the third leading cause of death from foodborne illness in the U.S., the CDC said.
The Boar’s Head outbreak, which began in July, has been linked to 59 hospitalizations and 10 deaths across 19 states. No illnesses have yet to be reported in the BrucePac and TreeHouse recalls.
There’s also a steep financial cost. The economic burden of foodborne illness was estimated to be as high as $90 billion annually, according to a 2020 research paper published in the Journal of Food Protection.
Listeria is unusually hard to trace after an outbreak because it has a long incubation period — the CDC says it can take up to 10 weeks for some people to develop symptoms. Many people don’t seek medical attention after they become sick, and those who do generally have trouble recalling what they ate several weeks ago.
Boar’s Head, which produces and sells deli meats, cheeses and condiments, called the outbreak a “dark moment in our company’s history” in a letter to customers in September.
“Comprehensive measures are being implemented to prevent such an incident from ever happening again,” the Sarasota, Fla., company said.
Boar’s Head has been working with the USDA, state government regulatory agencies and food safety experts to determine what went wrong. The investigation is still ongoing, and the results will include “what needs to be improved and where policy changes are needed,” the Food Safety and Inspection Service spokesperson said.
Boar’s Head shared some preliminary findings last month, saying it had identified the root cause of the contamination as “a specific production process that only existed” at its facility in Jarratt, Va., and was used only to make liverwurst. As a result, it said it was permanently discontinuing the production of liverwurst and was closing the Jarratt plant for good.
Boar’s Head also published a notice of suspension that the USDA sent on July 31, which laid out numerous “insanitary conditions” and other problems at the plant. Among them: beaded condensation dripping over products, employees moving racks of coolers between lines without changing personal protective equipment and a sample collected from a pallet jack that tested positive for listeria.
“Clear liquid was observed falling from a square patch in the ceiling,” the notice said. “A black fan was mounted to the ceiling and was blowing the leaking clear liquid into the Blast Cell Hallway, where 9 trees of uncovered Assorted Hams were stored.”
What these back-to-back recalls show is we aren’t where we thought we were.
— Barbara Kowalcyk, director of the Institute for Food Safety and Nutrition Security at George Washington University
Besides working with government inspectors to investigate contamination, food manufacturers also have to help track down products affected by their recalls, an unwieldy task in situations where hundreds of different items with various sell-by and best-by dates were sent to businesses around the country. In the BrucePac case, items were widely distributed to supermarkets, big-box discounters, wholesale clubs, restaurants, schools and other establishments.
Retailers like to say they have close relationships with their suppliers and buy only from vendors they trust. But issues still arise, leaving companies scrambling to get the word out to customers.
Trader Joe’s, which is in the process of recalling several of its private-label salads, wraps and other items made with ready-to-eat BrucePac products, says it does “daily work to make certain our products meet our stringent food safety expectations.”
“We voluntarily take action quickly, aggressively investigating potential problems and removing the product from sale if there is any doubt about its safety or quality,” the company says on a food safety page on its website.
Yet another high-profile deadly outbreak was announced Tuesday, when the CDC issued a food safety alert after discovering an E. coli outbreak linked to McDonald’s Quarter Pounders; there are currently 49 cases across 10 states, including 10 people who were hospitalized and one who died. The CDC, USDA, Food and Drug Administration and public health officials in multiple states are now investigating.
Although inspections and investigations are shared responsibilities between food manufacturers and government entities, “the onus is really on the company,” Kowalcyk, of the Institute for Food Safety and Nutrition Security, said.
“If you look at the complexity of our food supply and the number of producers and the number of importers, it’s growing exponentially,” she said. “Do I think the agencies can do more? Yes. Do I think they have the resources that they need to do more? No.”
Food safety will “never be perfect because pathogens are living things and all systems fail,” she continued. “We’ve got to recognize we’ll never get to zero, but we can get pretty close and that’s what we should be striving for.”
Science
Cluster of farmworkers diagnosed with rare animal-borne disease in Ventura County
A cluster of workers at Ventura County berry farms have been diagnosed with a rare disease often transmitted through sick animals’ urine, according to a public health advisory distributed to local doctors by county health officials Tuesday.
The bacterial infection, leptospirosis, has resulted in severe symptoms for some workers, including meningitis, an inflammation of the brain lining and spinal cord. Symptoms for mild cases included headaches and fevers.
The disease, which can be fatal, rarely spreads from human to human, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.
Ventura County Public Health has not given an official case count but said it had not identified any cases outside of the agriculture sector. The county’s agriculture commissioner was aware of 18 cases, the Ventura County Star reported.
The health department said it was first contacted by a local physician in October, who reported an unusual trend in symptoms among hospital patients.
After launching an investigation, the department identified leptospirosis as a probable cause of the illness and found most patients worked on caneberry farms that utilize hoop houses — greenhouse structures to shelter the crops.
As the investigation to identify any additional cases and the exact sources of exposure continues, Ventura County Public Health has asked healthcare providers to consider a leptospirosis diagnosis for sick agricultural workers, particularly berry harvesters.
Rodents are a common source and transmitter of disease, though other mammals — including livestock, cats and dogs — can transmit it as well.
The disease is spread through bodily fluids, such as urine, and is often contracted through cuts and abrasions that contact contaminated water and soil, where the bacteria can survive for months.
Humans can also contract the illness through contaminated food; however, the county health agency has found no known health risks to the general public, including through the contact or consumption of caneberries such as raspberries and blackberries.
Symptom onset typically occurs between two and 30 days after exposure, and symptoms can last for months if untreated, according to the CDC.
The illness often begins with mild symptoms, with fevers, chills, vomiting and headaches. Some cases can then enter a second, more severe phase that can result in kidney or liver failure.
Ventura County Public Health recommends agriculture and berry harvesters regularly rinse any cuts with soap and water and cover them with bandages. They also recommend wearing waterproof clothing and protection while working outdoors, including gloves and long-sleeve shirts and pants.
While there is no evidence of spread to the larger community, according to the department, residents should wash hands frequently and work to control rodents around their property if possible.
Pet owners can consult a veterinarian about leptospirosis vaccinations and should keep pets away from ponds, lakes and other natural bodies of water.
Science
Political stress: Can you stay engaged without sacrificing your mental health?
It’s been two weeks since Donald Trump won the presidential election, but Stacey Lamirand’s brain hasn’t stopped churning.
“I still think about the election all the time,” said the 60-year-old Bay Area resident, who wanted a Kamala Harris victory so badly that she flew to Pennsylvania and knocked on voters’ doors in the final days of the campaign. “I honestly don’t know what to do about that.”
Neither do the psychologists and political scientists who have been tracking the country’s slide toward toxic levels of partisanship.
Fully 69% of U.S. adults found the presidential election a significant source of stress in their lives, the American Psychological Assn. said in its latest Stress in America report.
The distress was present across the political spectrum, with 80% of Republicans, 79% of Democrats and 73% of independents surveyed saying they were stressed about the country’s future.
That’s unhealthy for the body politic — and for voters themselves. Stress can cause muscle tension, headaches, sleep problems and loss of appetite. Chronic stress can inflict more serious damage to the immune system and make people more vulnerable to heart attacks, strokes, diabetes, infertility, clinical anxiety, depression and other ailments.
In most circumstances, the sound medical advice is to disengage from the source of stress, therapists said. But when stress is coming from politics, that prescription pits the health of the individual against the health of the nation.
“I’m worried about people totally withdrawing from politics because it’s unpleasant,” said Aaron Weinschenk, a political scientist at the University of Wisconsin–Green Bay who studies political behavior and elections. “We don’t want them to do that. But we also don’t want them to feel sick.”
Modern life is full of stressors of all kinds: paying bills, pleasing difficult bosses, getting along with frenemies, caring for children or aging parents (or both).
The stress that stems from politics isn’t fundamentally different from other kinds of stress. What’s unique about it is the way it encompasses and enhances other sources of stress, said Brett Ford, a social psychologist at the University of Toronto who studies the link between emotions and political engagement.
For instance, she said, elections have the potential to make everyday stressors like money and health concerns more difficult to manage as candidates debate policies that could raise the price of gas or cut off access to certain kinds of medical care.
Layered on top of that is the fact that political disagreements have morphed into moral conflicts that are perceived as pitting good against evil.
“When someone comes into power who is not on the same page as you morally, that can hit very deeply,” Ford said.
Partisanship and polarization have raised the stakes as well. Voters who feel a strong connection to a political party become more invested in its success. That can make a loss at the ballot box feel like a personal defeat, she said.
There’s also the fact that we have limited control over the outcome of an election. A patient with heart disease can improve their prognosis by taking medicine, changing their diet, getting more exercise or quitting smoking. But a person with political stress is largely at the mercy of others.
“Politics is many forms of stress all rolled into one,” Ford said.
Weinschenk observed this firsthand the day after the election.
“I could feel it when I went into my classroom,” said the professor, whose research has found that people with political anxiety aren’t necessarily anxious in general. “I have a student who’s transgender and a couple of students who are gay. Their emotional state was so closed down.”
That’s almost to be expected in a place like Wisconsin, whose swing-state status caused residents to be bombarded with political messages. The more campaign ads a person is exposed to, the greater the risk of being diagnosed with anxiety, depression or another psychological ailment, according to a 2022 study in the journal PLOS One.
Political messages seem designed to keep voters “emotionally on edge,” said Vaile Wright, a licensed psychologist in Villa Park, Ill., and a member of the APA’s Stress in America team.
“It encourages emotion to drive our decision-making behavior, as opposed to logic,” Wright said. “When we’re really emotionally stimulated, it makes it so much more challenging to have civil conversation. For politicians, I think that’s powerful, because emotions can be very easily manipulated.”
Making voters feel anxious is a tried-and-true way to grab their attention, said Christopher Ojeda, a political scientist at UC Merced who studies mental health and politics.
“Feelings of anxiety can be mobilizing, definitely,” he said. “That’s why politicians make fear appeals — they want people to get engaged.”
On the other hand, “feelings of depression are demobilizing and take you out of the political system,” said Ojeda, author of “The Sad Citizen: How Politics is Depressing and Why it Matters.”
“What [these feelings] can tell you is, ‘Things aren’t going the way I want them to. Maybe I need to step back,’” he said.
Genessa Krasnow has been seeing a lot of that since the election.
The Seattle entrepreneur, who also campaigned for Harris, said it grates on her to see people laughing in restaurants “as if nothing had happened.” At a recent book club meeting, her fellow group members were willing to let her vent about politics for five minutes, but they weren’t interested in discussing ways they could counteract the incoming president.
“They’re in a state of disengagement,” said Krasnow, who is 56. She, meanwhile, is looking for new ways to reach young voters.
“I am exhausted. I am so sad,” she said. “But I don’t believe that disengaging is the answer.”
That’s the fundamental trade-off, Ojeda said, and there’s no one-size-fits-all solution.
“Everyone has to make a decision about how much engagement they can tolerate without undermining their psychological well-being,” he said.
Lamirand took steps to protect her mental health by cutting social media ties with people whose values aren’t aligned with hers. But she will remain politically active and expects to volunteer for phone-banking duty soon.
“Doing something is the only thing that allows me to feel better,” Lamirand said. “It allows me to feel some level of control.”
Ideally, Ford said, people would not have to choose between being politically active and preserving their mental health. She is investigating ways to help people feel hopeful, inspired and compassionate about political challenges, since these emotions can motivate action without triggering stress and anxiety.
“We want to counteract this pattern where the more involved you are, the worse you are,” Ford said.
The benefits would be felt across the political spectrum. In the APA survey, similar shares of Democrats, Republicans and independents agreed with statements like, “It causes me stress that politicians aren’t talking about the things that are most important to me,” and, “The political climate has caused strain between my family members and me.”
“Both sides are very invested in this country, and that is a good thing,” Wright said. “Antipathy and hopelessness really doesn’t serve us in the long run.”
Science
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