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Two rocking chairs rest angled toward each other on an east-facing porch, burnt sienna-colored sheepskins making their wooden slats inviting. A potted geranium sits below. A wind chime clinks gently overhead, and a patterned blanket draped over a cotton rope adds folk-art charm.
Flack Family Farm in Fairfield evokes a scene from a Wendell Berry novel — a portrait of pastoral bliss. The Berry vibes will deepen come September, when community volunteers arrive for the cabbage-chopping chaos of annual sauerkraut production.
I encountered this snapshot of rural life on a tour of the farm’s lacto-fermentation facility. Incidentally, it was also a tour of Doug and Barbara “Bobbie” Flack’s home, where the product is still made, though the business changed hands last October.
Doug, 82, started the organic, biodynamic farm in 1978, raising sheep and later adding raw milk and grass-fed beef. In the 1990s, he married Bobbie, now 74, and learned lactic acid fermentation techniques; he began selling cultured raw vegetables, sauerkraut and kimchi while she taught media arts at a local technical school and worked on the farm’s marketing. Now, after a 30-year run and a five-year transfer process, the Flacks have passed the baton to employees Zach Brandau, 47, and Julie Matranga, 44.
Currently, Flack Family Farm’s fermented products — sauerkraut, kimchi and a mix called the Pink Lady — are on shelves in 36 stores and served in three restaurants. Production has increased from 22 barrels annually in the 2000s to 100 barrels, or about 20 tons, today.
Cabbage, garlic, daikon radish and carrot crops spread across the farm’s 170 certified-organic acres, planted in small plots that rotate on a seven-year schedule to avoid overtaxing the soil and prevent pest and disease buildup. (This year’s cabbage patch, which contains 7,000 heads, is less than three-quarters of an acre.) Sheep and cows graze the fallow land, adding fertilizer and aeration, and the farm sells pasture-raised beef and lamb. Other areas are used to make organic hay for the animals.
Like most small farmers, Flack Family Farm’s new owners are juggling weighty and sometimes competing interests — including new requirements from the Vermont Department of Health, which reviewed their operation on the occasion of the business transfer. They also have to worry about being underfoot, literally: Their sauerkraut ferments in the basement of Doug and Bobbie’s farmhouse.
Still, Brandau and Matranga are determined to keep the business going. Fermenters gonna ferment.
The couple’s history with the Flacks began when they signed on separately as unpaid interns in the early 2000s. The two met and fell in love at the farm in 2005, when Brandau got Matranga’s attention by showing off an electric apple press. After a decade of pursuing other farm ventures and moving west to Bend, Ore., they returned in 2014 for the “pace of rural life” and a “connection to a food system,” Matranga said, adding, “I thought a lot about this farm and the dreams that got started back then.”
When Doug Flack suffered a stroke in 2019, Brandau became invaluable, leading both the vegetable and animal operations. (Matranga grazed the sheep and cows before leaving for a position at High Mowing Organic Seeds in Wolcott.) Doug recovered well and made it through another season, but a second stroke left him permanently unable to work.
“I think we always thought we would have more working-together time,” Matranga said.
Since then, Brandau and Matranga have embraced life in rural Vermont. They bought a house two miles from the Flacks’ and wove themselves into the fabric of the farm, taking on more responsibility and increasing production. They have contracted with distributor Pumpkin Village Foods to expand their reach into Chittenden, Addison and Lamoille counties and even to New York City.
An artist-activist with a theater background, Brandau finds satisfaction in drawing up intensive grazing plans and in the rhythm of the seasons. He compared the short window of sauerkraut production to putting on a show, with a team of paid seasonal workers and rotating volunteers filling out the cast.
“You get this tight-knit crew. And it’s two months of that intense flow of energy and life. Then it’s over, and you take it all down — set over; run is over,” he said. “All the barrels are in the basement, and you finally get that breather.”
While Doug’s production-season ensemble was entirely friends and community volunteers, Brandau and Matranga employ one year-round and one extended-season farmhand, plus a handful of temporary workers in September and October. Volunteers are still important to the farm’s ethos, the new owners said, and all are welcome to help with tasks such as cleaning and shredding vegetables while learning about the fermentation process and sharing meals.
A college buddy of Matranga’s, Jessica Smith, 44, recalled by phone what the volunteer experience meant to her. Now a program coordinator at the Vermont Student Assistance Corporation, Smith was a “burnt-out social worker” in 2016, when she first found herself prepping veggies at Flack. “What I really like about volunteering, maybe also after being in a pretty overwhelming professional setting, was, I just get to focus on one thing at a time,” she said. “My job is cleaning these carrots or this daikon — I’m not thinking about anything else.”
Smith also found the farm-fresh food and communal lunches “very impactful.” “When I spent that first fall on production, I was like, ‘I want this to be my home; this is the community I want to be a part of.’ And the farm really feels like it’s a hub, it’s the center point,” she said.
The past and present farmers think of each other as family. “They’re the elder part of our family structure,” Brandau said of Doug and Bobbie. “We love each other like family,” Matranga added, “and we also have our differences that we’re trying to communicate and work through and still share space.”
Those differences account for the protracted nature of the business transfer, for which the parties enlisted the help of Burlington’s Intervale Center and its partner, the Vermont Forest & Farm Viability Program.
Perhaps the least troubling issue was the physical space. The Intervale Center helped split the assets so that Brandau and Matranga could buy the business and a small portion of land that contains barns for the animals, while the Flacks retain the home they built. A stone’s throw from the main barnyard, it contains the farm’s production facility (a tented patio used as an outdoor kitchen) and a basement room for fermenting, storage and packaging.
The Flacks enjoy their proximity to the action. “It’s great for food, camaraderie, friendships, stimulation — and it’s fun,” Doug said.
But bucolic farmland is expensive. The difficulty of the transition lay in distributing the financial burden fairly between the founders with a vision and the successors with a dream.
“We had so many conversations, and people wanted so many different things,” Matranga said, adding that it was clear “that this business could not continue to support multiple households. It was a really hard process for the four of us to come to consensus, but we did, I think because we all want to see this land continue to be in farming.”
Matranga declined to give the purchase price but noted that she and Brandau “paid as much as we could pay” for the business and 36 acres of land, financed with a bank loan and a personal loan from the Flacks. Bobbie said her teacher’s pension allowed them to arrive at a number that was affordable for the new owners.
These days, Bobbie has art in a gallery in St. Albans and is developing new business ventures: selling medicinal plants from her garden, such as Solomon’s seal and echinacea, and launching a camping/farm stay experience, complete with farm tours. She said Doug is doing all the reading he never had time for while farming.
On the farm, Brandau still heads the vegetable and animal programs. Besides being the primary caregiver for their 6-year-old daughter, Simone, Matranga deals with the administration and accounting. “I can handle looking at the finances without going into a tailspin,” she said lightly. She also helps Brandau with the grazing strategy, leads the packaging team, makes deliveries within northern Vermont and prepares meals for the crew. She teased the future possibilities of an on-farm store, farm dinners and bringing “really good coffee” to rural Vermont.
After touring the farm, the basement fermentation facility and the sauerkraut-prep space, I headed out to the cabbage patch. The only volunteer for the day, I worked alongside Brandau, Matranga and their two hired farmhands, Brian Doucette and Nate Brigham.
Before we could plant, we used our fingers to make holes in the six- to eight-inch-thick hay mulch, clearing six-inch circles and putting large rocks aside in neat piles, like eggs in a nest. The hay mulch prickled my bare knees, and the sun heated my skin, but clouds drifting lazily across the azure sky provided some respite. Tucking the baby cabbages in their craters was immensely satisfying, and the afternoon passed pleasantly in the patch, but I was happy enough to head home when the day’s 600 plants were securely in the dirt.
I was free to go, but the work of a true farmer is never done. Brandau and Matranga’s first season as owners has been as rocky as that mountain soil. The Department of Health is requiring changes to the outdoor space where the farmers have prepared their ferments for the past 30 years.
Less than a month from go-time, the couple have been granted approval to use the space once they enclose it with mesh screens and obtain a wastewater permit. (The latter is still pending a visit from an engineer.) Matranga said they plan to make their ferments as usual, even if it means renting a commercial kitchen.
Wendell Berry would be disappointed. But the sheepskin-laden rocking chairs will be waiting on the Flacks’ porch, come what may.
Nine of the Vermont Senate’s 11 standing committees will have new leaders this biennium and three will be helmed by Republicans, Lt. Gov. John Rodgers announced from the Senate floor Thursday afternoon.
The committee overhaul follows the retirement, death or defeat of a considerable number of veteran chairs last year — and after Republicans picked up six seats in the 30-member body in November’s election. Democrats and Progressives now hold 17 seats, while Republicans control 13.
Unlike the Vermont House, where committee positions are chosen unilaterally by the speaker, Senate assignments are doled out by a three-member panel, the Committee on Committees, which this year includes two new participants: Rodgers, a Republican, and Sen. Ginny Lyons, D-Chittenden Southeast. Senate President Pro Tempore Phil Baruth, D/P-Chittenden Central, returned to the committee.
The trio had few experienced senators from which to choose, given that — as Baruth noted in his opening remarks to the chamber Wednesday — nearly two-thirds of the Senate’s members joined the body over the past two years. Illustrating the point, newly sworn-in Sen. Seth Bongartz, D-Bennington, was tapped to chair the Senate Education Committee. (Bongartz had previously served in the House since 2021 — and had tours of duty in both the House and Senate in the 1980s.)
Perhaps the most significant appointment went to Sen. Andrew Perchlik, D/P-Washington, who will chair the powerful Senate Appropriations Committee. He succeeds Sen. Jane Kitchel, D-Caledonia, who retired after leading the budget-writing panel for 14 years.
Sen. Nader Hashim, D-Windham, will helm the Senate Judiciary Committee, following the death last June of veteran Sen. Dick Sears, D-Bennington.
The Senate Natural Resources & Energy Committee will be led by Sen. Anne Watson, D/P-Washington. Its former chair, Sen. Chris Bray, D-Addison, was defeated in November.
Sen. Alison Clarkson, D-Windsor, takes over the Senate Economic Development, Housing & General Affairs Committee from Sen. Kesha Ram Hinsdale, D-Chittenden Southeast. Ram Hinsdale defeated Clarkson for the role of Senate majority leader in November, requiring the former to step down from her committee leadership position and allowing the latter to step up.
The three Republicans chairing panels are Sen. Richard Westman, R-Lamoille, who will run the Senate Transportation Committee; Sen. Russ Ingalls, R-Essex, who will head the Senate Agriculture Committee; and Sen. Brian Collamore, R-Rutland, who will lead the Senate Government Operations Committee. (Republicans similarly made gains in House leadership positions this year.)
Sen. Wendy Harrison, D-Windham, takes over the Senate Institutions Committee from Ingalls, who chaired it last biennium.
The sole returning chairs are Lyons, who will continue to lead the Senate Health & Welfare Committee, and Sen. Ann Cummings, D-Washington, who will retain control of the Senate Finance Committee.
Speaking to reporters Thursday afternoon, Baruth said the Committee on Committees had intentionally sought partisan equilibrium on certain panels. The Senate Education Committee, for example, which is expected to engage in heavy lifting as lawmakers reconsider the state’s education funding scheme, includes three Democrats and three Republicans. For a bill to clear that panel, four members would have to approve.
“What I intended for that committee… to do is to put out bipartisan bills,” Baruth said of Senate Ed.
Similarly, Baruth called the composition of the tax-writing Senate Finance Committee “very centrist,” with four Democrats and three Republicans.
“They’re going to have a lot of work to do, hard work, but the one thing I want them to think — to think long and hard about — is any kind of raising taxes or fees,” Baruth said. “The only time I’m looking to do that, if it’s necessary, is if it brings down the property tax.”
Ethan Weinstein contributed reporting.
This article will be updated.
Gov. Phil Scott proposed a sweeping overhaul of what he called Vermont’s “broken and failing” education funding and governing systems during his inaugural address Thursday.
In his first major speech since voters overwhelmingly reelected him and booted Democrats up and down the ballot from office, Scott focused on the topic that most infuriated Vermonters in November: affordability.
“When it comes to politics, I know it can be hard to admit when you’ve gone down the wrong path and need to turn around,” Scott told House and Senate lawmakers during his fifth inaugural address at the Statehouse in Montpelier. “But we’re not here to worry about egos. We’re here to do what Vermonters need. And they just sent a very clear message: They think we’re off course.”
As is typical for an inaugural speech, Scott did not delve into specifics on Thursday — the details of his plan will be unveiled later this month during his budget address.
But in the broad strokes, Scott teased a plan that would overhaul Vermont’s byzantine school governance structure and see the state assume a direct role in deciding how much districts spend.
“The bottom line is our system is out of scale and very expensive,” Scott said. “And as obvious as these challenges are, we haven’t been able to fix it.”
At the heart of Scott’s vision is a transition to a so-called foundation formula, whereby the state would calculate how much districts should spend on their schools and provide them corresponding grants.
Currently, local voters decide how much their school districts should spend when they approve or reject budgets during Town Meeting Day in the spring. Whatever the amount, the state must pay. To calculate each town’s fair share into Vermont’s more than $2 billion education fund, residential property tax rates are adjusted based on how much each district is spending per pupil.
While potentially explosive in a state where local control is jealously guarded, a foundation formula is fairly typical across the country. And in Vermont, a bill to transition over to such a system even passed the House in 2018 with Democratic support. The architect of that 2018 legislation, then-GOP Rep. Scott Beck, was just elected to the Senate and named Republican minority leader for the chamber — where he is working closely with administration officials on their education plans.
“I think what we’re going to see [from the governor] here in a couple, three weeks is something that is far beyond just education finance,” Beck said in an interview Thursday. “I think it’s going to get into governance and delivery and outcomes.”
Beck said the transition to a foundation formula would force a series of questions, including whether districts would be allowed to approve any spending beyond the state’s base foundation grant.
“And in that case, where do they get that money from? And under what conditions can they access that money?” Beck said. “There’s a myriad of decisions that go into that whole thing. None of those decisions have been made. But I think in various circles, we have committed to going down the road of building a foundation formula in Vermont.”
Beck said he expects Scott’s education proposal will also include provisions that are designed to reduce staffing in the public education system.
When Scott first took office in 2016, the state spent about $1.6 billion annually on public schools. This year, that number will exceed $2.3 billion.
Vermont schools now have one staff person for every 3.63 students, the lowest ratio in the United States. In 2018, Scott pushed hard, and unsuccessfully, for legislation that would have instituted mandatory caps on staff-to-student ratios.
“With what we’re spending, we should not be in the middle of the pack on any educational scorecard,” Scott said. “And our kids should all be at grade level in reading and math. In some grades, less than half hit that mark. While educators, administrators, parents and kids are doing their very best to make things work, the statewide system is broken and failing them.”
Inaugural and state-of-the-state speeches tend to include a laundry list of policy ideas. But Scott’s 43-minute speech was focused almost entirely on education and housing — he renewed calls to trim development regulations and to bolster funding for rehabbing dilapidated homes.
Scott only briefly discussed last summer’s floods, and made glancing mentions of public safety, climate change, and health care. The governor, who voted for Vice President Kamala Harris in November, made no mention of President-elect Donald Trump or national politics.
Seeking to highlight some successes, the governor noted that overdose and traffic fatalities have declined recently, the state has welcomed more than 1,000 refugees in the past few years, and that the state park system saw near record visitation last year.
The governor has long argued that Chittenden County is prospering at a rate disproportionate to the rest of Vermont. He intensified that rhetoric in Thursday’s speech.
“As the rest of the state struggles to catch up, they carry the same burden of increasing taxes and fees and navigate the same complicated mandates and regulations,” the governor said. “And regardless of how well-intentioned these policies are, they’re expensive and require resources that places like Burlington, Shelburne and Williston may have, but small towns like Chelsea, Lunenburg, Peacham, Plainfield — and even Rutland, Newport or Brattleboro — do not. Too many bills are passed without considering the impact on these communities.”
Early in his speech, Scott paid tribute to several veteran legislators who died in the past year, including senators Bill Doyle and Dick Sears and representatives Don Turner, Bill Keogh, and Curt McCormack. Scott choked up and was visibly emotional when his recalling “my dear friend and mentor,” Sen. Dick Mazza, who died in May.
Former Governors Peter Shumlin, Jim Douglas and Madeleine Kunin attended the speech.
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Education
MORRISTOWN, Vt. (AP) — A Vermont school district’s inadequate response to serious and widespread harassment of Black and biracial students has led to a settlement agreement with the federal government, the U.S. Justice Department said Wednesday.
The department’s Civil Rights Division and the Vermont U.S. attorney’s office began investigating the Elmore-Morristown Unified Union School District in December 2023 and reviewed records and complaints from the previous three school years. Investigators concluded that students, primarily at the middle school level, faced frequent slurs and racist imagery, including the use of the N-word and displays of confederate flags and Nazi symbols.
“Racial harassment makes students feel unsafe, deprives them of a supportive educational environment and violates the Constitution’s most basic promise of equal protection,” Assistant Attorney General Kristen Clarke said in a statement. “We look forward to the district demonstrating to its students that racial bullying and harassment have no place in its schools.”
Superintendent Ryan Heraty said Wednesday those comments don’t reflect the district’s current reality given that there has been a dramatic decrease in such incidents.
“When students returned from the pandemic, we saw a significant increase in behavior at the middle level, which was deeply concerning,” he said in an email. “In response, we have taken many intentional actions to address this behavior, which the DOJ recognized in its review.”
In a letter to parents and other community members Tuesday, Heraty said the district stands firmly against any acts of racism and responds immediately to reported incidents. In the current academic year, there have been no reported incidents of race-based harassment at the district’s elementary school and a “very limited” number at the middle and high schools, he said.
The Justice Department said the district cooperated fully with the investigation and has already implemented some improvements, including adopting a central reporting system to track incidents. The district also agreed to revise anti-harassment policies and procedures, hold listening sessions with student groups and conduct formal training and education programs for students and staff.
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