Vermont
Flack Family Farm in Vermont Changes Hands | Seven Days
Two rocking chairs rest angled toward each other on an east-facing porch, burnt sienna-colored sheepskins making their wooden slats inviting. A potted geranium sits below. A wind chime clinks gently overhead, and a patterned blanket draped over a cotton rope adds folk-art charm.
Flack Family Farm in Fairfield evokes a scene from a Wendell Berry novel — a portrait of pastoral bliss. The Berry vibes will deepen come September, when community volunteers arrive for the cabbage-chopping chaos of annual sauerkraut production.
I encountered this snapshot of rural life on a tour of the farm’s lacto-fermentation facility. Incidentally, it was also a tour of Doug and Barbara “Bobbie” Flack’s home, where the product is still made, though the business changed hands last October.
Doug, 82, started the organic, biodynamic farm in 1978, raising sheep and later adding raw milk and grass-fed beef. In the 1990s, he married Bobbie, now 74, and learned lactic acid fermentation techniques; he began selling cultured raw vegetables, sauerkraut and kimchi while she taught media arts at a local technical school and worked on the farm’s marketing. Now, after a 30-year run and a five-year transfer process, the Flacks have passed the baton to employees Zach Brandau, 47, and Julie Matranga, 44.
Currently, Flack Family Farm’s fermented products — sauerkraut, kimchi and a mix called the Pink Lady — are on shelves in 36 stores and served in three restaurants. Production has increased from 22 barrels annually in the 2000s to 100 barrels, or about 20 tons, today.
Cabbage, garlic, daikon radish and carrot crops spread across the farm’s 170 certified-organic acres, planted in small plots that rotate on a seven-year schedule to avoid overtaxing the soil and prevent pest and disease buildup. (This year’s cabbage patch, which contains 7,000 heads, is less than three-quarters of an acre.) Sheep and cows graze the fallow land, adding fertilizer and aeration, and the farm sells pasture-raised beef and lamb. Other areas are used to make organic hay for the animals.
Like most small farmers, Flack Family Farm’s new owners are juggling weighty and sometimes competing interests — including new requirements from the Vermont Department of Health, which reviewed their operation on the occasion of the business transfer. They also have to worry about being underfoot, literally: Their sauerkraut ferments in the basement of Doug and Bobbie’s farmhouse.
Still, Brandau and Matranga are determined to keep the business going. Fermenters gonna ferment.
The couple’s history with the Flacks began when they signed on separately as unpaid interns in the early 2000s. The two met and fell in love at the farm in 2005, when Brandau got Matranga’s attention by showing off an electric apple press. After a decade of pursuing other farm ventures and moving west to Bend, Ore., they returned in 2014 for the “pace of rural life” and a “connection to a food system,” Matranga said, adding, “I thought a lot about this farm and the dreams that got started back then.”
When Doug Flack suffered a stroke in 2019, Brandau became invaluable, leading both the vegetable and animal operations. (Matranga grazed the sheep and cows before leaving for a position at High Mowing Organic Seeds in Wolcott.) Doug recovered well and made it through another season, but a second stroke left him permanently unable to work.
“I think we always thought we would have more working-together time,” Matranga said.
Since then, Brandau and Matranga have embraced life in rural Vermont. They bought a house two miles from the Flacks’ and wove themselves into the fabric of the farm, taking on more responsibility and increasing production. They have contracted with distributor Pumpkin Village Foods to expand their reach into Chittenden, Addison and Lamoille counties and even to New York City.
An artist-activist with a theater background, Brandau finds satisfaction in drawing up intensive grazing plans and in the rhythm of the seasons. He compared the short window of sauerkraut production to putting on a show, with a team of paid seasonal workers and rotating volunteers filling out the cast.
“You get this tight-knit crew. And it’s two months of that intense flow of energy and life. Then it’s over, and you take it all down — set over; run is over,” he said. “All the barrels are in the basement, and you finally get that breather.”
While Doug’s production-season ensemble was entirely friends and community volunteers, Brandau and Matranga employ one year-round and one extended-season farmhand, plus a handful of temporary workers in September and October. Volunteers are still important to the farm’s ethos, the new owners said, and all are welcome to help with tasks such as cleaning and shredding vegetables while learning about the fermentation process and sharing meals.
A college buddy of Matranga’s, Jessica Smith, 44, recalled by phone what the volunteer experience meant to her. Now a program coordinator at the Vermont Student Assistance Corporation, Smith was a “burnt-out social worker” in 2016, when she first found herself prepping veggies at Flack. “What I really like about volunteering, maybe also after being in a pretty overwhelming professional setting, was, I just get to focus on one thing at a time,” she said. “My job is cleaning these carrots or this daikon — I’m not thinking about anything else.”
Smith also found the farm-fresh food and communal lunches “very impactful.” “When I spent that first fall on production, I was like, ‘I want this to be my home; this is the community I want to be a part of.’ And the farm really feels like it’s a hub, it’s the center point,” she said.
The past and present farmers think of each other as family. “They’re the elder part of our family structure,” Brandau said of Doug and Bobbie. “We love each other like family,” Matranga added, “and we also have our differences that we’re trying to communicate and work through and still share space.”
Those differences account for the protracted nature of the business transfer, for which the parties enlisted the help of Burlington’s Intervale Center and its partner, the Vermont Forest & Farm Viability Program.
Perhaps the least troubling issue was the physical space. The Intervale Center helped split the assets so that Brandau and Matranga could buy the business and a small portion of land that contains barns for the animals, while the Flacks retain the home they built. A stone’s throw from the main barnyard, it contains the farm’s production facility (a tented patio used as an outdoor kitchen) and a basement room for fermenting, storage and packaging.
The Flacks enjoy their proximity to the action. “It’s great for food, camaraderie, friendships, stimulation — and it’s fun,” Doug said.
But bucolic farmland is expensive. The difficulty of the transition lay in distributing the financial burden fairly between the founders with a vision and the successors with a dream.
“We had so many conversations, and people wanted so many different things,” Matranga said, adding that it was clear “that this business could not continue to support multiple households. It was a really hard process for the four of us to come to consensus, but we did, I think because we all want to see this land continue to be in farming.”
Matranga declined to give the purchase price but noted that she and Brandau “paid as much as we could pay” for the business and 36 acres of land, financed with a bank loan and a personal loan from the Flacks. Bobbie said her teacher’s pension allowed them to arrive at a number that was affordable for the new owners.
These days, Bobbie has art in a gallery in St. Albans and is developing new business ventures: selling medicinal plants from her garden, such as Solomon’s seal and echinacea, and launching a camping/farm stay experience, complete with farm tours. She said Doug is doing all the reading he never had time for while farming.
On the farm, Brandau still heads the vegetable and animal programs. Besides being the primary caregiver for their 6-year-old daughter, Simone, Matranga deals with the administration and accounting. “I can handle looking at the finances without going into a tailspin,” she said lightly. She also helps Brandau with the grazing strategy, leads the packaging team, makes deliveries within northern Vermont and prepares meals for the crew. She teased the future possibilities of an on-farm store, farm dinners and bringing “really good coffee” to rural Vermont.
After touring the farm, the basement fermentation facility and the sauerkraut-prep space, I headed out to the cabbage patch. The only volunteer for the day, I worked alongside Brandau, Matranga and their two hired farmhands, Brian Doucette and Nate Brigham.
Before we could plant, we used our fingers to make holes in the six- to eight-inch-thick hay mulch, clearing six-inch circles and putting large rocks aside in neat piles, like eggs in a nest. The hay mulch prickled my bare knees, and the sun heated my skin, but clouds drifting lazily across the azure sky provided some respite. Tucking the baby cabbages in their craters was immensely satisfying, and the afternoon passed pleasantly in the patch, but I was happy enough to head home when the day’s 600 plants were securely in the dirt.
I was free to go, but the work of a true farmer is never done. Brandau and Matranga’s first season as owners has been as rocky as that mountain soil. The Department of Health is requiring changes to the outdoor space where the farmers have prepared their ferments for the past 30 years.
Less than a month from go-time, the couple have been granted approval to use the space once they enclose it with mesh screens and obtain a wastewater permit. (The latter is still pending a visit from an engineer.) Matranga said they plan to make their ferments as usual, even if it means renting a commercial kitchen.
Wendell Berry would be disappointed. But the sheepskin-laden rocking chairs will be waiting on the Flacks’ porch, come what may.
Ryan Miller learned of Zeno Mountain Farm a half-dozen years ago from his Guster bandmate Luke Reynolds, who had recently moved to Lincoln in Addison County.
It was a camp in town, Reynolds told Miller, geared toward helping people with disabilities. Year-round, folks with and without disabilities worked on an even plane to put on shows, all for free. Miller went to one of Zeno Mountain Farm’s annual plays, the musical “Best Summer Ever,” and discovered a “gateway drug” that has kept him in the world of Zeno Mountain ever since.
“When I walked in there and saw the play and saw this place and saw this community, I was like, ‘Well, this is the most magical thing on earth,’” said Miller, who lives in Williston. “It feels like science fiction.”
Miller corralled many of Vermont’s highest-profile musicians to perform Nov. 16 in a 12-hour dance marathon at Zeno Mountain. The fundraiser was expected to raise about $100,000, said Peter Halby, who founded the nonprofit camp with his family. That totals roughly a sixth of the organization’s annual budget.
“We take care of each other together,” Halby said in describing Zeno Mountain’s mission. “We really want to push the definition of inclusion.”
A sense of community in Lincoln, Vermont
As the org says online, Zeno Mountain Farm aims to support “people with disabilities, cancer and traumatic brain injuries, along with veterans, people in recovery and ever-expanding kindred groups.”
The group had roots in California before moving to Lincoln in 2008. The next summer came Zeno Mountain’s first monthlong summer camp, and over time, the team “realized the Zeno model worked to create a society without margins for everyone.”
Of the hundreds of people involved in Zeno Mountain Farm, only four staff members are paid regularly. No one pays to attend. There are no distinctions between counselors and campers. Everyone works together to put on plays and concerts and travel “to all of the sweet spots of Vermont,” Halby said.
Zeno Mountain strives to avoid defining those with disabilities as “almost less-than,” Halby said.
“It’s just like one element of who they are,” he said.
Zeno Mountain Farm offers about 15 residential camp sessions a year totaling nearly 100 days, Halby said, with 50 to 100 people in attendance per session. He said the goal is to invite the same people every year, building a sense of community for those who often bounce around between homes and otherwise miss the thread of togetherness.
“People go back every year,” Miller said. “It really becomes this family, like a real family.”
Zeno Mountain Farm exists “on this incredible network of volunteers,” Halby said. “It’s hundreds of people, hundreds of Vermonters.”
Miller is one of those Vermonters.
“He has taken this on,” Halby said of Miller and his work on the upcoming dance marathon. “He’s so into it. He gets Zeno. He’s such a light and so great at this, and he pours his heart into it.”
Guster singer gets to work
When he saw his first play at Zeno Mountain, Miller was struck by how there was no delineation between actors with or without disabilities. If an actor had trouble speaking a line, they were given the space to speak it. A performer with trouble walking would have someone walking with them. It seemed to Miller to be a place with no race, no age, no particular ability or disability, no hierarchy.
“It’s so hard to be cynical within the walls of the place,” he said.
Miller has been coordinating performers for the half-day dance marathon. Vermont musicians including Brett Hughes, Lowell Thompson, Troy Millette, Matt LaRocca, Mark Daly (Madaila), Eric Maier (formerly of Madaila), Sadie Brightman and James Kolchalka are scheduled for this year’s event.
Miller — who seems to know everyone connected to Vermont’s music scene and many not — is so into Zeno Mountain that the man, who spends months every year on the road with his rock band, has agreed to serve as a board member for the organization.
“I’m not a fundraiser kind of guy,” Miller said. “I don’t want to come in as, like, Daddy Warbucks. What I can do is come in and try to connect people.”
Miller said he aims to be optimistic about life. Zeno Mountain Farm, he said, helps him feel good about humans.
“I think you take that outside of Zeno,” Miller said. “It serves as ballast in my moral maneuverings.”
If you go
WHAT: Zeno Mountain Farm annual dance marathon fundraising event
WHEN: 1 p.m., Saturday, Nov. 15-1 a.m. Sunday, Nov. 16
WHERE: Zeno Mountain Farm, 950 Zeno Road, Lincoln
INFORMATION: To donate, sponsor a dancer or take part in the dance marathon, visit zenomountainfarm.org or fundraise.givesmart.com/e/aahyTg?vid=1muq04
Contact Brent Hallenbeck at bhallenbeck@freepressmedia.com.
Vermont
VTDigger joins forces with FRONTLINE to investigate the aftermath of Vermont’s severe flooding – VTDigger
FRONTLINE, PBS’s investigative documentary series produced at GBH in Boston, has selected VTDigger for a yearlong reporting partnership to examine the aftermath of Vermont’s severe flooding and the federal government’s shifting response to natural disasters.
Emma Cotton, who has served as VTDigger’s environmental reporter before becoming a senior editor, will lead the project’s reporting. Her work, as part of FRONTLINE’s Local Journalism Initiative, will investigate how this extreme weather has affected our residents, housing situation, farms, businesses and landscape.
“Our goal will be to investigate why some Vermont communities are struggling to recover from the floods and how they could be better supported in getting back on their feet,” said Geeta Anand, VTDigger’s editor-in-chief. “We will do this in conversation with people in these communities so that our reporting is deeply informed by those most affected by the floods.”
VTDigger is one of seven newsrooms selected for FRONTLINE’s Journalism Initiative. Digger will team up with Blue Ridge Public Radio and The Texas Newsroom (the collaboration among NPR stations in the state), providing in-depth coverage of the impact and recovery efforts as we grapple with worsening weather and increased destruction.
“I’m so grateful to have FRONTLINE’s support, which enables us to dedicate a new level of resources to one of the most important stories in the state,” Cotton said. “I look forward to giving this story my complete attention over the next year, and I’m eager to connect with Vermonters across the state to understand how flooding has affected them and their communities.”
Vermont, long cast as a climate haven, is struggling to recover from back-to-back major flooding events, never mind prepare for the next ones. For each of the past three years, extreme flooding has taken place on the same day, July 10.
Small, rural towns, like those in southern Vermont and the Northeast Kingdom, have tiny, sometimes volunteer governments with limited capacity to plan for floods. Some of these towns are currently grappling with millions of dollars in debt — doubling their annual budgets in some instances.
“So many of us were personally affected by these floods — my road washed out two years in a row, and my former Montpelier business was destroyed in 2023,” said Sky Barsch, VTDigger’s CEO. “I know firsthand how vital it is to have deep, sustained reporting on what recovery entails. Under Geeta Anand’s leadership and with Emma Cotton’s excellent reporting, VTDigger is proud to partner with FRONTLINE to bring these stories to light.”
If flooding touched your home, business or town, please share your story (anonymous is OK) to help guide our reporting.
Vermont
A Civil War painting is unveiled at the Statehouse. Thank the social studies teacher who ‘found’ it. – VTDigger
This story by Tom McKone was first published in The Bridge on Nov. 6, 2025.
While doing research about the Civil War, Champlain Valley Union High School social studies teacher Tyler Alexander found an image of an 1872 painting by Julian Scott titled “The 4th Vermont Forming Under Fire,” which he hoped to include in a new book.
The problem was, at least initially, it appeared that no one in Vermont knew the painting even existed.
Internet searches were no help, and it was a few months before Alexander got his first good lead. Years ago, a Texas insurance company asked Vermont art historian Robert Titteron, who had written a book about Julian Scott, to appraise the value of the painting Alexander was seeking, and he still had the written communications. The last known owner was the University of Houston — and not only did the university still have the painting, it was about to auction it off.
Alexander quickly contacted David Schutz, the Vermont State Curator, who immediately contacted Vermont historians Howard Coffin and Kevin Graffagnino. With less than a week before the auction, there was no way to secure state money, so Coffin and Graffagnino asked Vermont Country Store owner Lyman Orton, who owns the largest private collection of Vermont art, for help.
Orton won the bidding for the painting and agreed to lend it to the state for display in the Statehouse’s Cedar Creek Room, which already had four other Civil War paintings by Scott, including “The First Vermont Brigade at the Battle of Cedar Creek, Oct. 19th 1864,” a 10-by-20-foot mural commissioned by the legislature and unveiled in 1874.
Skip forward 151 years, to Oct. 29, 2025, and an unveiling that brought Alexander, Orton, Coffin, Schutz, Graffagnino, a uniformed contingent from Vermont’s Civil War Hemlocks, and scores of other Vermonters to the Cedar Creek Room.
Alexander read a vivid description of the battle from one of the letters in his book, Coffin described the battle portrayed in the painting, Orton talked about his affinity for Vermont art, and Schutz reminded everyone that the Statehouse opened only two years before the Civil War started, and was, in a sense, baptized by that event.
A native of Johnson, Vermont, 15-year-old Scott joined the war as a drummer and fifer. He made camp and battle sketches during the war, and after it, he became a trained artist. Not only is his newly discovered painting on display at the Statehouse — it is also on the cover of Alexander’s new book, “If I Can Get Home This Fall: A Story of Love, Loss, and a Cause in the Civil War” (University of Nebraska Press 2025).
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