Connect with us

Vermont

Experts predicted a ‘maple-pocalypse.’ But Vermont’s syrup industry is booming. – The Boston Globe

Published

on

Experts predicted a ‘maple-pocalypse.’ But Vermont’s syrup industry is booming. – The Boston Globe


Mark Isselhardt, University of Vermont Extension’s maple specialist, showed the difference in maple syrup color grading.Danielle Parhizkaran/Globe Staff

A right whale feeding in Cape Cod Bay.

Awards for maple syrup are pinned to the wall of the kitchen within the Branon sugarhouse in Fairfield, Vt.
Danielle Parhizkaran/Globe Staff

Advertisement

A right whale submerges, showing its wide tail flukes.

Cecile Branon looks at the tapped maple trees just outside the sugarhouse at Branon Family Maple Orchards.
Danielle Parhizkaran/Globe Staff

For Cecile Branon, 68, the innovations have made it possible to imagine passing the operation on to the next generation.

“They already have plans,” she said of her grandchildren.

Advertisement

Maple production in Vermont has climbed to about 3 million gallons annually, with revenue approaching $100 million a year. The state makes more than half the syrup produced in the country. The gains are not just a result of sugar makers tapping more maples. The amount of sap produced per tap — the small spout inserted into a tree — has more than doubled since the start of the century.

Even 20 years ago, the industry’s continued growth was a major question. Maple syrup is a high-stakes crop because the bulk of the season’s product is made on just a handful of sap “runs,” when shifting temperatures create pressure changes that push clear, sweet liquid from the trees. Those perfect conditions typically happen in late winter or early spring, though some producers have found ways to take advantage of sap runs when the weather warms up even earlier.

Emma Marvin, the co-owner of Butternut Mountain Farm in Morrisville, Vt., said the precarious, weather-dependent nature of sugaring means producers have to be good at navigating uncertainty.

“There’s no indication for us what our yield is going to be other than what the weatherman tells us,” Marvin said. “Some of the volatility is baked in, and we’re used to adapting to it.”

Climate change is disrupting the delicate balance of freezing nights and above-freezing days required to trigger sap runs. Temperatures in Vermont, one of the fastest-warming states, have risen by about 3 degrees Fahrenheit since 1900. In 2012, a series of heat waves cut the season short, causing maple trees to “bud out” and ruining the flavor of the sap. Production in New England fell by nearly a third from the year prior.

Advertisement

Extreme weather, exacerbated by climate change, poses another threat. Severe storms can rip down tubing and fell trees. Flooding and drought stress the roots of sugar maples, a “Goldilocks” tree that doesn’t like to be too wet or dry.

Experts predicted a ‘maple-pocalypse.’ But Vermont’s syrup industry is booming.

Climate scientists have been warning that warmer weather could disrupt sap flow. Above, Elsie, 5, bikes through the sugarhouse at Branon Family Maple Orchards. (undefined)

Cecile Branon, a fourth-generation sugar maker in Fairfield, has seen these changes firsthand. The Branons are one of Vermont’s best-known maple families and manage a sugaring operation that surpassed 100,000 taps this year, a point of pride. Blue ribbons decorate a wall in the sugarhouse, including a hefty rosette for “best of show” at the Vermont Maple Festival.

After digging through more than two decades of her husband’s daily notes logging the work done on the land, Cecile Branon found that the start of the sugaring season has been steadily creeping earlier, changing by as much as a week some years.

Advertisement

“You could see it right in his book,” she said.

The two major innovations the Branons have adopted — vacuum tubing systems and reverse osmosis machines — are now widespread across the industry. Both technologies directly combat how climate change stresses maples.

The tubing sucks sap from the trees, increasing yields from unpredictable sap runs. Reverse osmosis machines, similar to those used in desalination plants, remove much of the water from sap to create a sugary liquid that boils into syrup more quickly. The machines keep production profitable even when sugar levels drop due to climate disruptions.

Other sugar makers are adjusting their forest management practices, reinforcing culverts and other infrastructure to withstand extreme weather, and embracing red maples, a resilient species long overlooked by maple producers. Producers have also started to tap trees earlier, so as not to miss out on a significant share of the season.

Jenna Baird held a photo book featuring her parents, Bob and Bonnie Baird, in the Baird Farm store. Danielle Parhizkaran/Globe Staff
Bob Baird and his daughter Jenna outside the Baird Farm sugarhouse after an evening of boiling maple syrup.Danielle Parhizkaran/Globe Staff

“The folks who are going to thrive are the ones who are able to make adjustments and don’t just rely on the way things have always been,” said Mark Isselhardt, University of Vermont Extension’s maple specialist.

At the Baird Farm in the foothills of the Green Mountains, Bob Baird had long assumed he’d be the last in his family to produce syrup on the land. But by keeping up with the latest practices, he and his wife, Bonnie, made it possible for their daughter Jenna Baird and her partner, Jacob Powsner, to take over.

Advertisement

“It’s not even a question,” Powsner said. “Either adapt, or you lose a huge amount of ability to compete in the modern marketplace.”

Jenna Baird and Powsner have made these changes part of their branding. Their maple jugs show blue tubing threading through the woods and a solar panel on top of their shed. On a tote bag emblazoned “Syrup Daddy,” Bob Baird flashes a toothy grin with tubing looped over his arm.

The marketing is paying off. Bob Baird said that when he recently visited the nearest city — Rutland, population 15,500 — a man recognized him and said his girlfriend wouldn’t believe he had met Baird in person.

Jenna Baird stirred boiling maple syrup at the Baird Farm sugarhouse.Danielle Parhizkaran/Globe Staff

Despite the progress, many questions remain about the industry’s future. At the University of Vermont’s Proctor Maple Research Center, scientists are trying to fill the research gaps. They’ve tricked out a tree with monitoring devices to better understand how maples are faring, and are assessing how vacuum pumps affect tree health over time.

“There’s unfortunately very little research specific to maple,” said Tim Rademacher, a German plant biologist who runs the center. “That explains partly why somebody who grew up in a country without maples can still make a career in it.”

The center works closely with producers, meaning a paper published one year might affect the practices of sugar makers the next.

Advertisement

Maple producers continue to worry about whether Vermont will continue to have suitable growing conditions. One 2019 paper predicted that the region of maximum sap flow would shift north by about 250 miles by 2100. Some researchers, though, challenge those findings and say they do not mean maples will disappear from Vermont. Predictions of the industry’s demise have been overstated for decades, they added.

Blue tubing, which draws sap from maple trees, is seen at the Proctor Maple Research Center in Underhill, Vt.Danielle Parhizkaran/Globe Staff

Allison Hope, executive director of the Vermont Maple Sugar Makers’ Association, said maple producers have to be “eternal optimists.” The technology can only go so far when the weather doesn’t cooperate.

“They’ve mitigated the effects of climate change up till now,” she said, but “what’s that next thing? Have we taken it as far as we can?”

That future felt far off this March at the Branon sugarhouse, where the sugaring season was in full swing. The air was steamy and thick with the smell of boiling sap. One of Tom and Cecile’s sons manned the equipment, while Cecile Branon whipped up a fresh batch of maple granola.

She nodded toward her 5-year-old granddaughter Elsie, who was racing past the tanks and coils of tubing dressed in pink sweatpants and a sequined dress.

“Those trees,” she said, “need to be there for them.”

Advertisement

Kate Selig can be reached at kate.selig@globe.com. Follow her on X @kate_selig.





Source link

Vermont

Ben & Jerry’s Foundation says it will shut down amid legal dispute with parent company – VTDigger

Published

on

Ben & Jerry’s Foundation says it will shut down amid legal dispute with parent company – VTDigger


Two patrons enter the Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream shop on Church Street in Burlington. File photo by Charles Krupa/AP

The Ben & Jerry’s Foundation says it will shut down at the end of the year after its corporate parent cut off funding and evicted its three staffers Wednesday. The move leaves $600,000 a year in grants to Vermont organizations, and 40 years of the ice cream brand’s progressive mission, hanging on a judge’s future ruling.

“This is the other foot dropping in terms of the way Magnum is trying to destroy the social values of Ben & Jerry’s,” said Ben Cohen, co-founder of Ben & Jerry’s Homemade, in an interview Wednesday.

The Vermont-based iconic ice cream brand has been in a legal fight with its parent company, The Magnum Ice Cream Co. — an ice-cream spinoff of the larger corporation Unilever — since November 2024. Ben & Jerry’s alleges that the corporation overreached its control, pushing out the CEO and interfering with the brand’s political views. The question before a judge is whether the corporate parent had the authority to reshape governance and withhold funding from the foundation. 

Amid the push-and-pull over governance, Unilever audited the foundation, which is the philanthropic arm of Ben & Jerry’s, in April 2025, finding conflicts of interest and a lack of governance and financial control. 

Advertisement

Liz Bankowski, president of the foundation’s board of trustees, said in an interview that Unilever withheld the philanthropy’s funding late last year and ordered foundation staff to vacate its corporate office in South Burlington by July 15 because of governance issues the audit raised. This led the foundation’s leaders to join the ongoing lawsuit, fought by the ice cream brand’s independent board, in an effort to retain funding. The lawsuit is pending in the U.S. District Court for the Southern District of New York. 

While the foundation’s leadership is framing the decision to cease operations as the only option after Unilever withheld funding, an unnamed spokesperson for Magnum wrote in a statement to VTDigger that the shuttering is “entirely down to the Trustees and their decision to ignore the findings of an independent audit and failure to put in place basic good governance; much to our dismay.” 

Since the audit, the foundation has adopted a conflict of interest policy, but “the bottom line was that unless we changed our board, they were going to continue to withhold funding,” Bankowski said.  

Cohen described the audit as “a bunch of trumped-up charges.” 

“The foundation has been independently audited every year,” he said. “I think that Magnum was searching in vain for some illegal or unethical activities. I think they found none.” 

Advertisement

Since Ben & Jerry’s sold the ice cream business to Unilever in 2000, the corporation has given $60 million to the foundation. The philanthropic arm has operated for 40 years, supporting the ice cream brand’s progressive mission by offering financial backing to social justice organizations across the country. The foundation does not have an endowment and is reliant on the funding its parent company gives annually, outlined in its merger contract.

A chunk of that funding, $600,000 a year, goes to Vermont organizations such as the immigrant farmworker rights organization Migrant Justice and the LGBTQ+ nonprofit Outright Vermont, according to foundation leaders. 

“We fill a particular niche that not a lot of other funders fill,” said Rebecca Golden, the foundation’s director of programs, who has worked at the organization for 34 years. 

Golden is one of three foundation staffers whose last day in the physical office is Wednesday, following orders from Magnum to vacate. Although Magnum did not directly address its vacate order in its statement to VTDigger, the spokesperson wrote that the foundation’s leaders recently “took the position that its staff are not Ben & Jerry’s employees, despite utilising Ben & Jerry’s offices and systems.”

Golden described the possible shutdown as an “enormous loss” that will not only affect the organizations that the foundation supports but also Ben & Jerry’s employees who “feel very proud of being a part of the foundation.” 

Advertisement

“It’s been a really long year, so there’s been a lot of emotions — the whole gamut, as we like to say of the seven stages of grief. But I think at this point we’re sort of in the acceptance phase,” she said. 

The Magnum spokesperson indicated that the work of the foundation will continue even if its leaders decide to cease operations at the end of the year, writing that the company is “firmly committed to funding a grant-giving foundation, supported by appropriate governance controls to ensure it is living by its values.”

But Cohen is not confident that Magnum will uphold the values of the Ben & Jerry’s Foundation in the corporation’s continued philanthropic efforts. 

“What are they going to fund? I have no idea. My guess is that they would not be looking to fund entities that are opposed to the status quo,” Cohen said.

The foundation’s leaders have pointed to its support of Migrant Justice during a period when the farmworker organization was considering a boycott of Ben & Jerry’s as an example of their commitment to social justice. After immigrant farmworkers raised concerns about working conditions at farms supplying Ben & Jerry’s, the company joined a program that collaborates with farmworkers to strive for fair working conditions. 

Advertisement

Political activism has been central to the Ben & Jerry’s brand since its founding. As a part of the ongoing lawsuit, Ben & Jerry’s alleged in a May filing that Magnum has been undercutting its social justice mission in order to “censor, intimidate and purge” the company’s independent board, which Cohen said was created to defend its progressive values. 

Three of the board’s members, including one who has been an outspoken critic of Israel, were removed late last year after the parent corporation introduced a new set of governance practices. In its motion to dismiss the lawsuit, Magnum argues that it retains ultimate authority and the brand’s social mission must be nonpartisan.  

As the lawsuit awaits a decision, Cohen, who is not a part of the suit, has created a campaign to “free Ben & Jerry’s,” amassing around 160,000 signers for its petition demanding that Magnum sell Ben & Jerry’s to a “group of values-aligned investors.”   

“The very values-led business model that built Ben & Jerry’s into this amazing, phenomenal brand is the very thing that Magnum is currently destroying,” Cohen said.





Source link

Advertisement
Continue Reading

Vermont

Hazy, hot, and humid: Wildfire plumes give southern Vermont skies an odd glow

Published

on

Hazy, hot, and humid: Wildfire plumes give southern Vermont skies an odd glow


SOUTHERN VERMONT — A thick veil of wildfire smoke high in the atmosphere is transforming the sky over our local Bennington and Windham Counties this week – casting an eerie glow, muting the sun, and leaving air quality in the moderate range – even as temperatures and humidity remain oppressive.

According to federal forecasters, the hazy and particulate-laden sky and unusual colors are the result of smoke from more than 830 active wildfires burning across Canada and northern Minnesota, funneled into New England by the jet stream and trapped over the region by stubborn weather patterns.

What people are seeing, and why the sky looks so strange

Over the course of Wednesday, residents across Southern Vermont reported the sky shifting from orangey‑yellow to umber to violet hues tinged with pink, with a yellow cast over the landscape and a deep red or dark orange sun, especially nearest to sunrise and sunset.

Advertisement

On a normal and clear day in Southern Vermont, tiny molecules in the atmosphere scatter mostly blue light, which is why the sky appears blue.

However, this week, the air is filled with larger particulate matter from wildfire smoke, which scatters longer wavelengths of light – oranges and reds – in a process known as Mie scattering (pronounced “mee,” and named after physicist Gustav Mie who first published the mathematical description of this weird-looking light-scattering phenomenon).

Due to Mie scattering, the sky can appear milky white, with sepia tones, or faintly pink‑violet, instead of blue. The sun may appear like a dark orange or red disk, especially when low to the horizon, and sunlight at ground level feels weaker and more filtered, as if being viewed through rose-tinted glasses. And these are the effects that we are currently experiencing.

Where the smoke is coming from, and how it travels

Federal agencies have reported that more than 800 wildfires are burning in Canada, with additional fires in northern Minnesota near the Canadian border. Many of these are large, and burning through dense boreal forests with little or no containment.

These blazes have triggered evacuations at their locales and in the surrounding areas, and are attributed to areas experiencing intensive drought.

Advertisement

The smoke created from these wildfires reaches Vermont through a series of atmospheric steps.

The jet stream’s “conveyor belt” of high‑altitude winds scoop up smoke from the Central Canada region and carry it southeast across the Great Lakes and into New England.

A high‑pressure “lid” forms, where a strong high‑pressure system causes air to sink (a process known as subsidence) which then presses some of the elevated smoke closer to the surface.

A stalled weather pattern can occur, where slow‑moving systems over Canada and the Northeast keep the flow of smoke aimed at the region instead of sweeping it quickly away.

These patterns mean that – even though the fires are hundreds of miles away – fine particulate matter (PM2.5) from those blazes is now suspended over Vermont and neighboring states.

Advertisement

Local air quality: Moderate, with cautions for sensitive groups

On Wednesday, air quality in Bennington and Windham Counties sat in the “moderate” category, with the Air Quality Index (AQI) fluctuating roughly between the low‑50s and high‑90s. This was driven primarily by PM2.5 from the presence of wildfire smoke.

In practical terms, most healthy adults can go about their normal routines outdoors. However, more sensitive groups – older adults, children, people with asthma, COPD, or heart disease – are advised to limit prolonged or heavy exertion outside, especially during the haziest periods.

Those with prolonged exposure may notice throat irritation, mild coughing, or even eye discomfort – particularly during intense exercise.

Residents can track real‑time conditions using the federal AirNow “Fire and Smoke Map” and Vermont‑specific dashboards, which show localized AQI readings as plumes shift during the day on Thursday.

How the smoke is affecting storms, heat, and humidity

The same smoke that is changing the sky’s color is also subtly reshaping the weather over Southern Vermont.

Advertisement

Forecasters note several key effects. These include solar dimming, where smoke particles in the upper atmosphere scatter and absorb sunlight, acting as a partial sunblock. This can shave a few degrees off daytime highs, compared with what might otherwise occur under clear skies.

It can also include “capping inversion.” By warming the air aloft, the smoke can create a “cap” – a warm layer that suppresses rising air. This can weaken thunderstorms, even when surface heat and humidity are high.

Another key effect is cloud microphysics, where extra smoke particles provide millions of tiny surfaces for water vapor to cling to, producing many “very tiny” droplets rather than fewer larger raindrops. These smaller droplets don’t fall as easily, which can reduce heavy rainfall and the actual structure of a storm.

For example, on Tuesday night, Southern Vermont sat under extremely high humidity fueled by warm southerly winds pulling tropical moisture up the East Coast ahead of a cold front. Under normal conditions, that setup could have produced stronger thunderstorms. Instead, wildfire smoke likely muted the intensity of those expected storms, leaving the region with more of a muggy “soupy” feeling than the explosive severe weather that many expected.

Short‑term outlook for southern Vermont

Through Wednesday and into Thursday, forecasters expect the following for our Southern Vermont region:

Advertisement
  • Sky conditions – Persistent haze and milky skies, with periods of thicker smoke as the plumes shift southward and then rise again. The sun may remain reddish or orange at times.
  • Temperatures and humidity – Highs in the mid‑80s, with oppressive humidity at times, especially ahead of the next cold front.
  • Air quality – AQI values are forecast to remain in the moderate range, occasionally bordering on “unhealthy for sensitive groups” during heavier smoke intrusions (these are expected through Thursday).
  • Showers and storms – As another cold front approaches us on Thursday, scattered showers are expected with isolated downpours and localized “non‑severe” thunderstorms. (Smoke may again limit storm strength somewhat.)

By Friday, higher pressure and drier air are expected to build in from the west, bringing more seasonable temperatures in the upper 70s to mid‑80s, lower humidity, and improved air quality – though some high‑level haze may linger.

For now, we will continue to look at our landscape through our “rose-colored” glasses.



Source link

Continue Reading

Vermont

Severe Thunderstorm Watch in effect for Vermont, New York & New Hampshire Tuesday night

Published

on

Severe Thunderstorm Watch in effect for Vermont, New York & New Hampshire Tuesday night


The National Weather Service has issued a Severe Thunderstorm Watch for northern and central Vermont, New York’s North Country and northern New Hampshire until 4 a.m. Wednesday. Storms Tuesday night into Wednesday could contain damaging wind gusts up to 70 mph, hail up to two inches in diameter, frequent lightning and torrential downpours. A tornado or two is possible, but not guaranteed.



Source link

Continue Reading
Advertisement

Trending