Connect with us

Lifestyle

Presenting the Big Burberry Reset

Published

on

Presenting the Big Burberry Reset

LONDON — The air within the massive black tent in the midst of Kennington Park, South London, was thick with expectations. They oozed across the benches, coated in plaid blankets, that snaked via the house; bathed the visitors in a nervous glow as they clutched the recent water bottles left on every seat. Even the recent toddies being handed out in metallic mugs appeared to bubble in anticipation. The Huge Burberry Reset below the model’s new designer Daniel Lee was about to start.

What’s the massive deal? you shrug. Manufacturers get new designers each different yr nowadays. Why does this one matter a lot?

As a result of Burberry was by no means only a model. It was a multibillion pound public firm and an unofficial cultural ambassador; the uncommon vogue label that had colonized a bit of the worldwide client creativeness, the place it stood not only for a sure sort of model however a sure sort of Britishness: one which could possibly be seeded throughout borders even because the empire itself shrank.

Made trendy by Christopher Bailey, who turned Burberry right into a vogue phenomenon of the primary decade of the twenty first century earlier than stepping down in 2018, it turned a supply of nationwide delight and id, one rooted in explorers, heroism and royal warrants; within the trenches and trench coats. (Because it occurred, Mr. Bailey was within the viewers this time round — he had been advising Mr. Lee a bit and, he mentioned, “I simply need it to be sensible.”)

Below the earlier inventive director, Riccardo Tisci, Burberry’s id received fuzzy and its affect waned, in a method that appeared a part of a broader British malaise. Particularly within the wake of Brexit and Borisgate, the disastrously transient reign of Liz Truss and the present fears of inflation.

Advertisement

OK, you say. And?

And that meant this present wasn’t nearly reinvigorating the model; it was about serving to reinvigorate the nation. It could sound nuts, nevertheless it’s actually not overstating the matter. Style is an entry level to id massive and small and, more and more a type of worldwide communication. Get it flawed, and also you hear about it from all corners. Get it proper and the consequence can put a model and what it stands for on the map.

And?

And Mr. Lee received it proper. Ish.

If it wasn’t the clarion name of readability that folks had been hoping for (it wasn’t), it was a calculated, and industrial, bid for relevance. Mr. Lee didn’t shrink back from the stakes. He embraced them.

Advertisement

He took a basis of clichéd Britishisms — plaid, knights errant, looking decoys and roses — filtered all of them via a grunge-y Nineteen Nineties lens, added a little bit of dry humor and Gen Z clickbait and juiced it to the luxurious degree. Seattle meets Shoreditch meets Windsor Nice Park through Vivienne Westwood.

Gabardine trench coats had been turned inside out to reveal the liner, an oversize label full with the brand new Burberry electrical blue Prorsum knight brand blaring on the again. Plaid blanket skirts had been layered over plaid tights (some static cling was concerned) or plaid pants below plaid sweaters in marigold and grape, raspberry and that electrical blue. It was a plaid-a-palooza.

A wool army overcoat got here with a knit duckbill hat, its shiny orange legs dangling down previous the ears, which winked on the duck decoy prints on Mr. Lee’s little shift attire and mountaineering pants.

They had been humorous, in an ironic form of method. Roses swirled round on anoraks and padded velvets. All the things was sort of wrapped up, chunky and protecting. Outerwear trumped night put on, although a pair of uneven lengthy attire manufactured from pointillist feathers hinted at an magnificence in ready. Perhaps subsequent time.

Of the 55 appears to be like for males and lady, solely a handful didn’t include an adjunct clutched in a single hand: an enormous squishy bag or a clutch within the form of a rose or a faux-fur muff (the fur was all both faux or shearling) or perhaps a sizzling water bottle. Many of the luggage additionally dangled squishy oversize fake-fox tails — like a lure, like a promise of ka-ching to return. There have been wellies and chunky Hush Puppies-like sneakers and pumps with the foot floating like a raft on a shearling sole (persevering with a pattern for fuzzy ft that started in New York). There was a lot of TikTok catnip. What there wasn’t was quite a lot of emotion or massive new concepts.

Advertisement

However there have been massive fake-fur trapper hats!

An extended-sleeve T-shirt got here with the phrases “Winds of Change” splashed over a swan’s head, a nod to the heavy metallic anthem of 1990 from the Scorpions that turned the soundtrack to the autumn of the Berlin Wall (and was as soon as rumored to have been a little bit of C.I.A. propaganda). Additionally to the truth that, Mr. Lee mentioned backstage with a little bit of wry understatement, it was a time of “change for me, change for the model.”

He is aware of what he’s doing.

That’s why the Burberry chief govt, Jonathan Akeroyd, took a threat on Mr. Lee, a gifted designer who hit the highlight not fairly 5 years in the past as inventive director of Bottega Veneta however who left that job in 2021 below a cloud, dogged by speak of unhealthy habits. Mr. Lee, in spite of everything, hadn’t simply received 4 British Style Awards in 2019 for his work at Bottega, he had grown up in Yorkshire, England, not removed from the Burberry mills, and been cast within the cauldron of Central Saint Martins in London.

It’s why Mr. Lee’s first advert marketing campaign for Burberry — launched simply earlier than the garments — featured such nationwide treasures because the actor Vanessa Redgrave, posed in entrance of the Trafalgar Sq. lions, and the soccer participant Raheem Sterling (of Chelsea and the English nationwide staff) smelling a white rose (the Tudor rose, a mixture of purple and white petals, is the English nationwide flower). Ms. Redgrave was on the present, as had been Liberty Ross and Shygirl, each of whom are also within the advert marketing campaign. Ditto Jason Statham, Jodie Comer, Bianca Jagger.

Advertisement

“I need to simply, hopefully, present some positivity about Britain to the world,” Mr. Lee mentioned after his last bow. The load wasn’t solely off his shoulders, however he seemed a bit lighter.

Continue Reading
Advertisement
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Lifestyle

10 drops, pop-ups and L.A. events to break through that June gloom

Published

on

10 drops, pop-ups and L.A. events to break through that June gloom

Prada Galleria

Who doesn’t love a fresh take on a classic? The Prada Galleria, a bag first created in 2007, is back with reimagined surface and structure — including a new calfskin exterior and nappa interior, gold-plated metal hardware and extremely Prada embellishments including micro-studs and 3-D floral blooms. The new Galleria in soft grain leather offers a flexible and comfortable canvas for an array of precious details. Now available in black and warm neutrals. prada.com

Toteme opens on Melrose

The spare white interior of a retail boutique.

Quiet luxury continues its reign in L.A. with the opening of Toteme on Melrose. The Swedish brand known for its archetypal Scandinavian style — making the kind of pieces that have been worn by Hailey Bieber and, undoubtedly, her L.A. cronies — establishes a new flagship space with a focus on art and design. The store houses Toteme staples like the embroidered scarf jacket, and also is home to the brand’s pre-fall ’24 collection, featuring airy button-ups and coats in whimsical colors and prints like olive green and leopard. Two low-slung greige sofas by Josef Frank for Svenskt Tenn serve as the nucleus of the sleek space, with artwork by prominent Swedish female artists — curated by Toteme’s owners — throughout. Now open. 8910 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood. toteme.com

The L.A. Yearbook at the Black Image Center

The LA Yearbook at the Black Image Center.
The LA Yearbook at the Black Image Center.
The LA Yearbook at the Black Image Center.

(Red Eye Creative Marketing)

Advertisement

“Innovation studio” SEEDS and creative agency Red Eye Creative team up to host the L.A. Yearbook, a social mixer connecting L.A.’s creative world at the Black Image Center on June 15 from 3 to 8 p.m. Serving as a West Coast follow-up to the Brooklyn Yearbook, the evening is meant to be steeped in nostalgia, encouraging attendees to get their headshots taken in the style of a high school picture day. The photos will be compiled into a physical yearbook after the event, offering a physical snapshot of L.A.’s creative scene at this moment in time. 3209 La Cienega Ave., Culver City. @thelayearbook

‘Fotos y Recuerdos: Guatemala in Los Ángeles’ at Oxy Arts

A photo collage features an old bus, headshots, a potted plant, a store interior and more

In collaboration with Las Fotos Project, Oxy Arts hosts the summer exhibition “Fotos y Recuerdos: Guatemala in Los Ángeles” through July 20. With a focus on image making and archives through the lens of the Guatemalan diaspora in L.A., the exhibition highlights more than100 photos from community members’ personal archives, showcasing interconnectedness, plus the importance of documentation and preservation in communities of color. 4757 York Blvd., Los Angeles. oxyarts.oxy.edu; lasfotosproject.org

‘The Theater’ by -ism and Brendan Lynch

"The Theater," a coffee table book by L.A. artist Brendan Lynch.
Colorful abstract paintings in "The Theater," a coffee table book by L.A. artist Brendan Lynch.

(Brendan Lynch)

Relive artist Brendan Lynch’s spring exhibition at Good Mother Gallery with a coffee table book that gives you insight into the Angeleno’s brain. The book, titled “The Theater” after the exhibition, is published and designed by independent publishing house -ism and takes us behind the scenes into a show that aims to bring the background to the forefront. The book, with its linen hardcover and white foil emboss, reveals the layers behind Lynch’s paintings, which depict “a controlled chaos of scenes picked from theatre, film, and pop media, challenge perceptions and invite a deeper engagement with the unseen,” says the gallery. Kim K’s post-coital bed; a fiery image from Alexander McQueen’s fall 1998 ready-to-wear collection; Aphex Twin’s “Windowlicker” video — these are all scenes that inspire work in “The Theater.” $60. my-ism.com

Advertisement

Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams

Pharrell Williams in a cowboy hat and denim shirt, pursing his lips

Tiffany & Co.’s new collection by Pharrell Williams, dubbed Tiffany Titan, takes inspiration from mythology, channeling the spike of Poseidon’s trident as a symbol of lifeforce, rebellious power and punk energy. Featuring an array of necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings in 18 karat yellow gold and black titanium with diamonds, the collection is feels personal to Pharrell. Poseidon, also known as the king of Atlantis, is representative of Pharrell’s relationship to water, and the community he grew up in in Virginia Beach, also called Atlantis. And the black titanium is the artist’s ode to “beauty in blackness,” says the brand. The pieces take on a rebellious spirit, anchored by Tiffany’s DNA. tiffany.com

Loewe X On

A person stands outdoors wearing a large orange coat

Everyone’s favorite quirky Spanish fashion house has collaborated with the Swiss performance wear brand On for a collection that’s meant to move with you from the city to the great outdoors. A campaign photographed by Ryan McGinley shows global athletes — from Aaliyah Miller to Masato and Sintayehu “Sinta” Vissa — in iconic California landscapes including Palm Springs, Indian Canyon and Simi Valley. The collection includes sneakers, hoodies, tanks, tees, vests and parkas in high-tech fabrics and tones that draw from nature. Available now: loewe.com, on.com

Beachwear by Parley for the Oceans X Dior

A model in shorts sitting on a lifeguard tower; in the foreground a model in a blue sleeveless hoodie with a blue towel

Environmental organization Parley for the Oceans has collaborated with Dior on a beachwear capsule collection for the third year in a row. Featuring bucket hats, bags, shorts, tops, coverups and more, the collection takes inspiration from the land and the ocean, featuring pieces in “mineral colors,” like aqua, and coral prints. The fall 2024 release is made using 30% of Parley Ocean Plastic, supporting the organization’s aim toward a more sustainable future. dior.com, parley.tv

‘Yves Saint Laurent: Line and Expression’ at OCMA

Mannequins in long draped gowns

(Marco Cappelletti / Musee Yves Saint Laurent)

A new exhibition at the Orange County Museum of Art celebrates the work and life of famed French couturier Yves Saint Laurent. With a focus on the designer’s drawing practice, the exhibition features original sketches done in black ink and pencil, punctuated by bursts of color, along with photographs, accessories and garments made from 1963 to 2001 that highlight Saint Laurent as a singular artist. June 28 through Oct. 27. ocma.art

Advertisement

Celine men’s winter ’24

A black-and-white vintage-looking photo of a model seated in a car, its door open

Inspired by a piece of music written by Hector Berlioz in 1830 and recorded by Leonard Bernstein in 1963 , Hedi Slimane’s men’s winter ’24 short film “Symphonie Fantastique” was shot early this year between the Mojave and Los Angeles, using a desolate desert road as its runway. Directed by Slimane, who has long shared a kindred spirit with California and L.A., “Symphonie Fantastique” is shot in black-and-white and it’s oozing with 1960s swagger and silhouettes. Juxtaposing models in Slimane signatures — skinny suits, slick leather, fur coats, capes — against lasso-wheeling cowboys, L.A. mountains and freeways, “Symphonie Fantastique” creates an alternate world in the familiar sprawling setting, borrowing the spirit of what Bernstein described as the first psychedelic symphony ever made.

Continue Reading

Lifestyle

Should you lend money to your loved ones? NPR listeners weigh in

Published

on

Should you lend money to your loved ones? NPR listeners weigh in

Photo illustration by Becky Harlan/NPR


hide caption

toggle caption

Advertisement

Photo illustration by Becky Harlan/NPR


Photo illustration by Becky Harlan/NPR

Has a friend or family member ever asked to borrow money from you?

Earlier this month, Life Kit asked our audience this question for an episode we did on the social etiquette of lending money. The act of generosity can unite people in times of hardship. But it can also complicate relationships — especially if the borrower doesn’t pay the loan back.

We received nearly 50 emails on the matter. Many of you reiterated a general rule we discussed in the episode: if a loved one asks for a loan, give the money as a gift if you can afford it.

Advertisement

But we also heard different perspectives. Some of you told us how lending money destroyed your friendships. Some offered advice on how to get money back from a negligent borrower. And others shared heartening stories about how the funds changed a person’s life.

Here is a selection of listener responses. These have been edited for length and clarity.

Use the loan as a teaching moment

Early in their marriage, my son and daughter-in-law had trouble making their paychecks stretch — and started asking my hubby and me for money.

I said yes with a couple of strings attached. First, it would only be a one-time thing. Second, they had to keep track, in writing, of how the money was being spent so I could see where the money was going. They were not thrilled with the idea, especially because I would see how they spent their money, but I didn’t care.

The exercise made them aware of where the money went. It only took a couple of months and they were living within their means. They are now doing well. They purchased a house they could afford when interest rates were low. —Joan Shurtliff

Advertisement

Saving my friend from high interest rates

My friend had a situation where she was in credit card debt on a card with a high interest rate, so I paid it off for her. It was over $500. I told her to pay me back over time.

It didn’t make sense to me that she should waste money on interest. My parents fronted me money for two months of credit card bills between college and my first post-college job. I paid them back after I had some paychecks under my belt. My friend’s family doesn’t have that luxury, and I don’t think she should be penalized for that. —Yvonne Marcoux

Don’t be afraid to ask for your money back

A college classmate of mine was hard on his luck. He had become unemployed for a spell and was having difficulties making ends meet. He asked if he could borrow money. I lent him $500 with the expectation that when things were better, he would pay me back.

After about two years, I called it in. I felt uncomfortable because I couldn’t tell for sure if he actually had the means to do so, but he was now employed. It took him a couple months, but he paid me back in full. —Mariann Duya

Consider their character

One day, a good friend of mine — a former roommate and tenant — sent an email to me and some friends. He just lost his job and humbly asked all of us if he we could loan him money for one month’s rent.

Advertisement

It was unusual for him to ask for such a loan. My friend is a hardworking man who is responsible with his money. He was a dependable roommate and tenant who always paid on time.

I consulted with my wife. She suggested that we lend him the full amount and consider it a gift. We were in a financial position where we could afford to do so. My friend was very grateful. From what I understand, we were the only ones in the group email to lend him money.

About a year later, after he found another job and got back on his feet again, he paid us back in full. It was a pleasant but not total surprise considering his character and our friendship. Though we were totally fine with letting the money go as a gift, it was nice to know that friends can keep their word too. —Oscar Fornoles

So far, so good

I often lend money to family, partners, friends and coworkers. I even proactively offer loans. They also lend me money. I can only remember one issue over very little money that I lended to a guy I didn’t know well. Maybe I’m lucky? Maybe it’s my environment? Do I choose my friends well? —Daniel Garzón

Glad I made it a gift

Several years ago I loaned $500 to a longtime friend. She was going through a hard time after a rough divorce. Out of compassion for her situation I wanted to help.

Advertisement

But before I did that, I asked myself if I was prepared to never see that money again. I’m glad the answer was yes — because she never paid me back or ever mentioned it. —Salvatrice Kemper

Thank you to everyone who responded to our call out. To take part in our next audience-generated story — and get great life advice from experts — sign up for Life Kit’s weekly newsletter.

This story was edited by Meghan Keane. The visual editor is Beck Harlan. We’d love to hear from you. Leave us a voicemail at 202-216-9823, or email us at LifeKit@npr.org.

Listen to Life Kit on Apple Podcasts and Spotify, and sign up for our newsletter.

Advertisement
Continue Reading

Lifestyle

Seth Plummer In 'The Pacifier' 'Memba Him?!

Published

on

Seth Plummer In 'The Pacifier' 'Memba Him?!

Advertisement

Advertisement
Continue Reading

Trending