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Gen Alpha kids are spending big money on skin care. Some adults are concerned

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Gen Alpha kids are spending big money on skin care. Some adults are concerned

Fourth grader Naiya White knows what you think about her twice-daily beauty regimen and her Sephora shopping trips.

“I heard all you guys were freaking out about 10-year-olds using skin care,” she says in a TikTok video posted last month, standing outside a Sephora store in Grand Junction, Colo. “So let’s go pick some out!”

Moments later, White is making her way down the hot pink Glow Recipe aisle in an oversize Lilo & Stitch T-shirt and sparkly green eyeliner, ticking off her favorite products in rapid succession.

“I’d recommend this avocado cleanser; it’s nourishing and gentle,” she says, holding up a $28 tube of face wash. “The mist is also a yes — it makes your skin look super glowy and it’s hydrating. This moisturizer is also one of my favorites and it smells delicious. The hyaluronic Plum Plump balm is a great sleep mask for lips.”

In conclusion, she says with more than a hint of sass, “For all the cranky, musty, dusty adults out there who think little kids shouldn’t be using skin care … get it together!”

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Naiya, 10, is part of a fast-growing army of preteens who are swarming into beauty stores around the country and buying up cleansers, moisturizers, toners, face masks and, in some cases, potent anti-wrinkle serums, exfoliants and peels that are intended to slow the aging process in much older consumers. They’re showing off their multi-hundred-dollar hauls and elaborate morning and nighttime routines on TikTok, where the catchphrase “Sephora Kids” has been hashtagged more than 11,000 times.

The obsession with skin care among Gen Alpha — typically defined as those born between 2010 and 2024 — is leading to a windfall of unexpected business for the booming $164-billion global skin-care industry, which historically has targeted women, not girls. But cosmetics brands and the retailers that carry their products are facing a delicate balancing act as they navigate the phenomenon and figure out how to market to a growing cohort of impressionable customers.

“I don’t want to see younger kids using active ingredients, using exfoliating products, because it’s just not necessary,” said Shai Eisenman, founder and chief executive of Bubble, one of the skin-care lines most coveted by Gen Z and Gen Alpha consumers. “We have a responsibility as a brand, and that responsibility is not to sell as many products as possible.”

Gea Gueron, a sales associate at Larchmont Beauty Center, helps a young customer look at products.

(Carlin Stiehl / For The Times)

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In June, cosmetics chain Ulta Beauty released an analysis of customer data that showed members of Gen Alpha become interested in beauty much earlier than their predecessors.

“While Gen Z females started experimenting with beauty products and services around age 13, Gen Alpha is eclipsing them by five years — starting at the average age of 8 for females and males,” the report said. “They also start more concretely defining what beauty means to them around the age of 11.”

The burgeoning skin-care trend, which Ulta Beauty began noticing in the last year, is “driven by the rise of new skincare rituals and trending products on TikTok,” a spokesperson said in a statement, adding that Gen Alpha overwhelmingly views skin care as a form of self-care and wellness.

Skin-care mania has divided millennial parents, many of whom grew up washing their faces in the shower with a bar of soap — if at all — and now are baffled by the multistep get-ready-with-me videos that their children are diligently following on social media.

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Any video Naiya and I make at Sephora or Ulta, people have something to say. But I feel like a lot of adults forget what it’s like to be a child.

— Ashley Paige, Naiya White’s mom

Dermatologists and estheticians say the unease is more than just the usual hand-wringing of an older generation. They worry “skinfluencers” are pushing children to splurge on products that in some cases could cause damage to sensitive young skin, and are concerned the craze is kick-starting an unhealthy fixation with physical appearance.

“A lot of tweens and teens are now using anti-aging products, so they’re starting way too young,” said Dr. Carol Cheng, a pediatric dermatologist and an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at UCLA. In recent months, she has seen some patients arrive for their appointments with “bags of products to make sure they’re optimizing what they’re doing.”

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“They’re using things like vitamin C serums, salicylic acid, really expensive products that have actives that can actually harm their skin,” Cheng said, referring to active ingredients meant to address specific conditions such as wrinkles and dark spots. Such harsh chemicals, she added, can cause irritation, redness, burning, peeling and stinging.

At CatEye Beauty Skincare, a boutique day spa in San Diego, girls are bringing in pictures of Korean women with so-called glass skin — a Korean beauty trend that refers to a clear and luminous complexion — and saying, “I want my skin to look like this,” owner Catherine Noel said.

“I’ve had a couple girls come in with very wealthy parents and they wanted a pumpkin peel on their perfect face,” she said. “That would be something for a 35-year-old woman, not somebody who’s 12.”

Amid reports and videos of unsupervised Sephora Kids descending upon the stores en masse, wreaking havoc on product testers and harassing employees, longtime shoppers have taken to the retailer’s online community page to post complaints, including one thread proposing a ban on customers under 16.

“I know that Sephora has basically become the new Claire’s for kids, and buying Drunk Elephant products that are full of actives and retinoids that are harmful to [kids’] skin is the latest Gen Alpha trend, but the testers are getting destroyed,” one customer wrote. “Everything from kids mixing skincare and makeup testers together to make ‘smoothies’ to opening new makeup packages and using them.”

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The backlash hasn’t stopped Ashley Paige, Naiya White’s mom, from taking her to Sephora and Ulta Beauty a couple of times a month and filming their excursions for the more than 40,000 people who follow their joint TikTok page, @sparkleandchaos.

Ashley Paige, 37, left, and her daughter, 10-year-old Naiya White, at a Sephora store.

Ashley Paige, 37, left, and her daughter, 10-year-old Naiya White, at a Sephora store.

(Courtesy of Ashley Paige)

“Any video Naiya and I make at Sephora or Ulta, people have something to say,” Paige, 37, said in an interview with The Times. “But I feel like a lot of adults forget what it’s like to be a child.”

The duo’s first video, posted in January, addressed the backlash head-on, with Naiya instructing fellow Sephora Kids on how to behave politely in the stores.

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“I heard they were about to ban testers because of us — that is not OK. Girls, clean up after yourselves,” she says in the video, which has been viewed more than 6 million times. “You need to be polite to all the people who work here, OK? You want a good rep, not a bad one.”

Industry professionals say an early introduction to skin care can be a positive thing if messaged correctly.

They’re steering young skin-care enthusiasts away from products with active ingredients and focusing instead on a minimalist approach centered on helping them develop healthy daily habits. The three basics, they say, are appropriate for any age: a gentle cleanser, a hydrating moisturizer and a good sunscreen.

That’s generally the protocol that Naiya follows, albeit with some extra steps.

“In the morning, I like to use my Bubble face wash and my Bubble Cloud Surf moisturizer and my Bubble tinted sunscreen,” Naiya said. Bubble launched in 2020 as a Gen Z-oriented brand with eye-catching packaging in vibrant colors and bold fonts, and quickly caught on with preteens as well.

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Bubble products

“We don’t think anyone under 13 needs anything other than sunscreen, cleanser and moisturizer,” Bubble CEO Shai Eisenman says.

(Bubble)

“At night is when I use my Evereden kids multivitamin face wash and Evereden kids multivitamin face cream — it smells floral-y,” Naiya continued. “Sometimes I use toner. I also use the Aquaphor balm under my eyes to help with puffiness and stuff.”

Gen Alpha already wields significant spending power and is expected to become an economic force in the coming years. Companies of all kinds are developing new products to appeal to the demographic, which is growing rapidly with more than 2.8 million children born globally every week. By the end of the year, they will number nearly 2 billion — the largest generation ever, according to McCrindle Research, which is credited with coining the term.

Ulta Beauty, which operates more than 1,400 stores in all 50 states, said that in response to greater interest among Gen Alpha, it has “expanded our offerings to include simplified, dermatologist-approved products designed for younger skin.” In its most recent fiscal year, total sales increased 9.8% to $11.2 billion, with skin care accounting for 19% of company revenue, up from 17% the year prior.

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“We do not proactively promote skin care to Gen Alpha,” a spokesperson said. “As more younger shoppers engage with us, we focus on guiding them — and their parents — toward informed choices” including educational resources, ingredient-based guidance and age-specific training for store associates.

Ulta Beauty store

An Ulta Beauty store in New York City. The cosmetics retailer released an analysis of customer data this summer that showed members of Gen Alpha become interested in beauty much earlier than their predecessors — starting at the average age of 8.

(David Dee Delgado/Getty Images)

That said, beauty companies are routinely teaming up with entertainment brands and toy makers to release kid-friendly limited-edition collections.

Ulta Beauty on Sunday launched two partnerships: an assortment of makeup, skin-care and hair-care items tied to the November release of Universal Pictures’ movie musical “Wicked,” as well as a separate collection with Mini Brands, featuring tiny $9.99 replicas of many of the chain’s bestselling products.

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“All your favorite beauty brands are now cuter and more collectible than ever with Mini Brands x Ulta Beauty!” the retailer’s website says. “With over 68 different minis to collect, every unboxing is a fun surprise!”

Bubble used similar playful language in its recent rollout of Bubble Charms, “the CUTEST way to accessorize your Tell All Lip Balm.” The lip balm “comes with an adorbz keychain” and “will make your crush text u back,” the company says on its website.

In May, Bubble announced a collaboration with Pixar tied to the release of “Inside Out 2,” an animated film about the roiling emotions of puberty that grossed $1.6 billion worldwide at the box office. The products included in the limited-edition Pixar collection were safe for all ages, Eisenman said.

Bubble, a skin-care line beloved by Gen Z and Gen Alpha.

Bubble, a skin-care line beloved by Gen Z and Gen Alpha, launched in 2020. It recently partnered with Pixar on a product collaboration for the release of “Inside Out 2.”

(Bubble)

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Today Bubble has about 50,000 brand ambassadors who help promote the company, participate in its product testing program and receive special discounts and freebies; 20,000 of them are 13 to 18 years old. On Bubble’s website and social media posts, the company routinely highlights which products and practices are suitable for kids.

“Just cuz you saw it on TikTok doesn’t mean it’s right for your face!” reads the caption in a Bubble Instagram post this year that featured a three-step skin-care routine for customers under 13. “Great skincare can be super simple.”

“A lot of younger kids are using products that are inappropriate,” Eisenman said. “For us, one of the most important elements is to be a good force and an educating source in this space.”

I’ve had a couple girls come in with very wealthy parents and they wanted a pumpkin peel on their perfect face. That would be something for a 35-year-old woman, not somebody who’s 12.

— Catherine Noel, owner of CatEye Beauty Skincare

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At CatEye Beauty, owner Noel added a “teen facial with skincare lesson” to her list of services in March. The $120, 45-minute treatment is designed for people 11 to 15 years old and includes a double cleanse, mild exfoliation and, if necessary, extractions to clear out clogged pores.

“They still have baby skin,” she said. “I don’t like this trend of young girls coming in and using very expensive products, especially since they’re made for adults.”

Gen Alpha’s love of skin care is even prompting consternation among Gen Z.

At Larchmont Beauty Center on a recent Friday afternoon, eighth grader Maren and her friend, Shiri, stopped in to pick up a pack of hair bands. The two are on the border of Gen Z and Gen Alpha, but consider themselves members of the older generation.

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“Our generation is a lot more chill,” she said. “I feel like millennials are full-face and we’re just like, some makeup. And then the people younger than us are like: skin care.”

Calling the trend “a little freaky,” 14-year-old Maren said she knows of kids “who are like 9, and they’re doing the same stuff I’m doing.”

“It’s insane that like a 9-year-old who has perfect skin is doing a 12-step skin-care routine.”

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Column: The latest info on California's $20 minimum wage for fast food workers — higher pay, no job losses and minimal price hikes

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Column: The latest info on California's  minimum wage for fast food workers — higher pay, no job losses and minimal price hikes

Which of California’s economic initiatives droves conservatives batty the most? No question: It’s the state’s $20 minimum wage for fast food workers, which went into effect April 1.

For months before the wage increase, conservative pundits and economists filled the airwaves and newspaper columns with predictions that it would produce an employment bloodbath at fast food restaurants.

Some went further, purporting to find actual evidence of huge job losses. The Wall Street Journal claimed to have discovered losses of 10,000 jobs between September 2023 and January 2024, even before the new wage went into effect. The estimate was duly parroted by the conservative Hoover Institution.

What’s good for workers is good for business, and as California’s fast food industry continues booming every single month our workers are finally getting the pay they deserve.

— Gov. Gavin Newsom on the state’s $20 minimum wage for fast food workers

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Two new analyses of the actual wage and price impacts of the $20-per-hour minimum have appeared this month. They employ slightly different statistics, but their conclusions are the same: There have been no job losses in fast food resulting from the increase. By some measures, employment has increased.

The first analysis to appear came from the Institute for Research on Labor and Employment at UC Berkeley. It found no measurable job losses, significant wage gains (as one might expect from raising the minimum wage to $20 from an average of less than $17), and modest price increases at the cash register averaging about 3.7% — far lower than the fast food franchise lobby claimed were necessary.

The second comes from a joint project of the Harvard Kennedy School and UC San Francisco. Not only did that survey find no job losses, but it also debunked claims or conjectures from minimum-wage critics that the increase would show up as reductions in hours or fringe benefits.

Nothing of the kind has surfaced in the months just before or just after the new law, according to the Harvard-UCSF survey’s authors, Daniel Schneider of Harvard and Kristen Harknett of UCSF.

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“In response to wage increases,” they wrote, “employers could have looked to cut costs by reducing fringe benefits such as health or dental insurance, paid sick time, or retirement benefits. We find no evidence of reductions.”

These results are important for several reasons. One is that the fast-food minimum wage increase is one of the sharpest ever, and the resulting wage the highest in the country (with a few minor exceptions).

It’s also one of the most tightly targeted, applying to California stores of fast food chains with more than 60 nationwide locations. The sector employs about 750,000 workers in the state, 90% of whom were paid less than $20 an hour — on average, slightly less than $17 — before the new wage went into effect.

“This is a big deal because of how many workers are getting raises,” UC’s veteran labor expert Michael Reich, the lead author of the Berkeley study, told me. The estimated average 18% raise for affected workers means that some will be able to afford a better apartment or a used car. Employers get benefits too: “The minimum wage kills a lot of vacancies and improves the supply of labor coming to those restaurants.” That means less worker turnover, which is a bothersome expense.

The fast food raise has been presented as a signature achievement by California’s Democratic governor, Gavin Newsom, who depicts it as emblematic of the state’s progressive labor policies. “What’s good for workers is good for business, and as California’s fast food industry continues booming every single month our workers are finally getting the pay they deserve,” Newsom said in August.

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Fast food employment in California rose after April’s minimum wage increase (solid red line), often faster than in the rest of the country.

(UC Berkeley)

California has been a leader in raising minimum wages. The overall state minimum wage this year is $16 an hour and is scheduled to rise to $16.50 on Jan. 1; that’s the highest state-level minimum and the highest except for the District of Columbia, where it’s $17.50. (Certain localities in some states have higher minimums.) The California minimum wage for certain healthcare workers will rise to between $18 and $23 on Wednesday.

The issue is also timely, for California voters will be asked on election day to vote on a minimum wage increase for employees at all but the smallest businesses to $17 immediately and $18 on Jan. 1.

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All that has made the fast-food minimum a favorite target for employers, their lobbyists and some right-of-center economic commentators.

The minimum wage issue occupies a peculiar place in economic analysis. Many economists and commentators judge it by intuition — if you raise the price of something, such as the price of fast food labor, conventional economics say you’ll get less of it. Hence, higher minimum wage, fewer jobs.

But it’s also among the most heavily studied of all economic phenomena, with the overwhelming majority of studies finding little or no employment effect from a higher minimum. But none examined the effects of a minimum higher than $15.

That left the door open for critics of the California minimum to claim that this higher minimum was destined to wreak havoc on fast food employment. Some jumped the gun by finding job losses even before the law went into effect — ostensibly because employers were cutting jobs in anticipation of higher costs.

As I reported in June, the California Business and Industrial Alliance placed a full-page ad in USA Today, citing the Wall Street Journal’s figure of 10,000 fast-food jobs lost during the fall and early winter and describing 12 restaurants or chains as “victims of Newsom’s minimum wage.”

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This was “baloney, sliced thick,” I wrote. Some of the chains listed were victims of other economic factors, such as competition, or financial manhandling by their private equity owners.

The figure of 10,000 job losses proved to be a statistical error: The Wall Street Journal used non-seasonally adjusted job figures, so it missed the fact that fast-food employment always falls in the September-January period, so the looming minimum wage played no role.

That was something of a curveball for UCLA economics professor Lee Ohanian, who had cited the Journal’s figure in two columns published by the Hoover Institution, where he is a senior fellow, writing that the pace and timing of the employment decline made it “tempting to conclude that many of those lost fast-food jobs resulted from the higher labor costs employers would need to pay” when the new law kicked in.

Ohanian told me in June that he hadn’t realized that the figures weren’t seasonally adjusted, and that he would query the Journal about the issue in anticipation of writing about it again. He told me more recently that he did write to the Journal but didn’t receive a reply, and that he hasn’t revisited the issue thus far.

So what do we know now about the $20 fast food minimum?

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Government labor statistics haven’t shown an employment decrease in the fast-food category leading up to the April 1 date or in most of the months since then. The Berkeley researchers, led by Reich, found that fast-food employment rose almost steady this year from January through August, when it exceeded 750,000 for the first time.

According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, employment in the sector during that period has run ahead of last year’s monthly figures in every month except June. From April 2023 through August this year, the BLS says, California fast food employment rose by about 3,200 jobs on a seasonally adjusted basis.

Reich’s team questioned reports of sizable price increases by restaurants aiming to pass their labor cost increases onto customers. The Wall Street Journal, for example, quoted one restaurant owner saying he had raised menu prices by 10%, and a McDonald’s franchisee fretting about losing his customer base if he had to raise the price of a Happy Meal to $20. This was nothing but a flight of fancy: The price of a Happy Meal in California ranges from $4 to $8 today, depending on its content and size.

Based on their examination of menus from nearly 1,600 California restaurants, the Berkeley researchers calculated the average price increase to be about 3.7% — “or about 15 cents on a $4 hamburger.” That was less than the 4.8% average increase imposed on fast-food customers from April 2023 to April 2024. Their math suggests that fast food restaurants passed about 62% of their labor cost increase in April to customers; the rest was taken out of profits.

None of this is likely to be the last word on the minimum wage issue. Future increases for fast food workers will be in the hands of an advisory wage council and subject to legislative oversight. It’s still early in the post-$20 era; wage and price effects may take many more months, even a year, to emerge, though over time the hourly minimums for other employment sectors may move higher, making the fast food wage less of an outlier.

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Employment figures, moreover, can be hard to validate. Several different statistical models are in use by states and the federal government. UCLA’s Ohanian reminded me that the quarterly census of employment and wages of the Bureau of Labor Statistics, which covers about 95% of businesses, is current only through the end of March. The next release, covering the second quarter of 2024, won’t be published until December; it’s calibrated with the bureau’s other estimates only once a year.

Don’t expect anything published then to quash the debate over California’s fast food labor policy. The evil of the minimum wage is a favorite chew toy in conservative politics.

But the bottom line is that workers in the California fast-food industry are better off today than they were six months ago. Who has a problem with that?

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FilmLA makes plea for 'vast expansion' of Hollywood tax credit program to address production crisis

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FilmLA makes plea for 'vast expansion' of Hollywood tax credit program to address production crisis

FilmLA, the organization that handles film permits and tracks on-location production in the Los Angeles area, is urging California to expand its movie and TV tax incentive program to mitigate Hollywood’s ongoing production crisis.

The Studio City-based permit office released a scripted content study on Wednesday revealing that filming activity in the region declined by 19.7% when examining titles released in 2023 versus 2022, while California’s share of the global production market fell from 22% to 18% judging by the amount of projects released over the same period.

“Today, Greater Los Angeles is one place among many where film, television and commercial projects are made,” FilmLA President Paul Audley said in a statement.

“More support for California’s film industry, including and a vast expansion of the California Film & Television Tax Credit Program, is required in order to increase the rate of industry investment in our state.”

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As the Los Angeles Times recently reported, entertainment industry experts and insiders overwhelmingly agree that California’s $330-million tax credit program — which pales in comparison to more generous and expansive incentives offered by other states and countries — is the biggest factor dissuading studios from shooting movies and TV series in the state.

A number of improvements to California’s tax incentive system have been discussed — such as expanding the program to cover commercial production and salaries for stars and other above-the-line employees. But it is widely accepted that a significant overall boost in funding is needed to compete with Georgia, New York, the United Kingdom, Canada and other popular production destinations.

In a September interview with The Times, Colleen Bell, executive director of the California Film Commission, acknowledged that the state “can’t always compete dollar-for-dollar with other tax credit programs” but reasoned that Hollywood still has “significant value” thanks to its robust infrastructure and seasoned workforce.

“The entertainment industry feeds around $43 billion in wages into the state economy,” Audley said in a statement. “But how long can California subsist — or help businesses and families thrive — on an ever-thinner slice of a shrinking production pie?”

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Anaheim hotel fined heavily for not rehiring workers laid off during pandemic

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Anaheim hotel fined heavily for not rehiring workers laid off during pandemic

California’s labor commissioner on Tuesday slapped the Anaheim Marriott with more than $12 million in fines for failing to try to rehire workers who were laid off during the pandemic.

The hotel did not properly offer jobs to 28 former employees, including bell attendants, engineers, landscapers and lead cooks, according to the office of Lilia García-Brower, the state labor commissioner.

The $12.45-million penalty comes under California’s “right to recall” law, which requires employers in hospitality and building services industries to first offer workers who were let go during the pandemic the chance to return when job openings become available.

The labor commissioner’s office said it launched its investigation of the Anaheim Marriott in June 2022 after Unite Here Local 11, a union representing hospitality workers, submitted reports alleging the hotel had violated the recall law by using staffing agencies to make hires.

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The investigation found that the hotel, which reopened in 2021 after shutting down amid the pandemic, failed to offer back jobs to long-serving employees, or offered employees their jobs back belatedly after hiring others. Some of the affected employees had worked with the company for as many as 40 years.

“Failure to rehire long-serving employees is not just a violation of the law, but a violation of trust these workers had in their employer after years of dedicated and loyal service. This citation reflects our commitment to holding violators accountable and ensuring that workers’ rights are protected,” García-Brower said in an emailed statement.

Representatives for Marriott could not be reached for comment Tuesday evening.

The law allows damages of $500 per worker for each day the employer does not follow recall rights called for under the law. In the Anaheim Marriott case, the state determined there had been 21,753 total days of violations, according to the citation.

The fine issued to the Anaheim Marriott is the largest levied so far under the law. The citation holds Marriott Hotel Services Inc., Marriott Hotel Services LLC and Marriott International Inc. jointly liable for the violations.

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The state issued its first right-to-recall citation in March 2022, to Terranea Resort in Rancho Palos Verdes, ordering $3.3 million in fines. Terranea appealed the fines, saying the law was vaguely worded. In July that year, the upscale hotel reached a settlement with the state, agreeing to pay $1.52 million without admitting wrongdoing.

In October 2023, the state fined Hyatt Regency Long Beach $4.8 million for failing to offer jobs in a timely manner to 25 employees, including restaurant servers, bartenders, housekeepers, cashiers and stewards.

The right-to-recall law, Senate Bill 93, went into effect in spring 2021 and was intended to end Dec. 31 this year. Last year, lawmakers approved SB 723, which extends the protections for employees in the hospitality and building services industries until the end of 2025.

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