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Fine Jewelry Designs Exhibit an Urban Flair

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Fine Jewelry Designs Exhibit an Urban Flair

Imaginative ways of playing with light have long been one of jewelry’s key features, and several brands recently added a cool urban twist to that technique. Fine jewelry collections have been introduced with graphic looks that clearly were inspired by city architecture and echoed the signature geometry of Art Deco design.

When Chopard unveiled the latest additions to its Ice Cube collection in September, for example, the house’s marketing material described the pieces as “sculpted by light,” with gridlike patterns set onto gold rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces. Rows of tiny gold cubes, some punctuated with diamonds, evoked an evening cityscape twinkling with lights.

Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, said she took her cue from Bauhaus architecture and its focus on functionality and simplicity. “This minimalist aesthetic appealed to me through its highly graphic lines that use only the original elements, which are light, shape and resistant materials,” she wrote in an email.

And while geometric jewels have been trending for some time, her pieces appear to reflect a pared-back approach. “Minimalism is expressed as an art of living that involves choosing to safeguard essentials, meaning all that is precious and enduring rather than ephemeral,” she wrote. “Ice Cube jewelry embodies this desire to focus on that which is simple, pure, beautiful and lasting.”

The Ice Cube collection includes a variety of pieces, such as rings, hoop earrings, individual ear cuffs and bangles offered in a range of sizes, allowing the wearer to layer or stack pieces according to taste.

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Molly Haylor, the style director at the British edition of Grazia magazine, said the size range reflects the architectural connections of the design trend. “The more adventurous you are with the different ways of stacking, the more exciting it will look and add an element of power to your outfit,” she said. “Because of the shapes and the way they’ve been molded, they all pick up light differently. It does recall the skyscrapers in iconic cities like New York and Chicago or even Tokyo.”

Recent collections at Louis Vuitton and Dior also highlighted graphic looks, notably playing with house design codes.

Louis Vuitton interpreted Damier, the checklike pattern first conceived more than 135 years ago for its trunks and that today adorns products ranging from its ready-to-wear styles to accessories. Now, the motif has found expression in Le Damier de Louis Vuitton fine jewelry collection, featuring diamonds in square settings juxtaposed with polished gold.

The rings are the collection’s most varied pieces, offered in 18-karat white or yellow gold, in different sizes and heights. “When you put them all together they’re like a Lego piece that builds this beautiful structure,” said Ms. Haylor, who added that a graphic, cuff look also could be achieved by stacking Le Damier’s tennis bracelet-inspired bangles.

At Dior, the feminine My Dior collection incorporated the maison’s signature cannage pattern, a lattice look seen on its handbags that is a nod to Christian Dior’s first fashion show. During that event in 1947 at Dior headquarters in Paris, guests sat on Napoleon III chairs with the mesh pattern, which now has made its way to My Dior’s line of rings, earrings and bracelets.

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For each piece, the lattice of fine golden strands is created by hand, then a strip of mirror-polished gold is inserted behind the grid to create a play of light between the strands and the strip. (The light is enhanced even more by the diamonds set in some pieces). The collection debuted in September in 18-karat pink gold or white gold, then in late November expanded into yellow gold, with black lacquer for contrast.

Such large heritage houses are not the only ones to adopt the style.

Jessica McCormack’s new Tapestry collection may recall the embroidered friendship bracelets of the 1980s, but the London-based jeweler said she had been inspired by all manner of graphic forms: mosaics, 1920s floor tiles, murals, even the Tetris video game. The result was a blend of pattern and color, with bold patterns such as the chevron created from emeralds and pink and blue sapphires.

Executing the designs was a complex process, however, as each stone had to be set onto a tiny gold tile, then strung together. “It creates this fabric, liquid-like movement,” said Ms. McCormack, adding, “It was a bit of a nightmare. But I do think the best things always are.”

The colors really pop, she noted, thanks to the rhodium treatment that creates an outline around each tile: blackened white and yellow gold for the blue sapphires and emeralds and blackened white and rose gold for the pink sapphires.

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The biggest surprise of the collection, Ms. McCormack said, was seeing clients wearing the bracelets alongside their watches, something she attributes to the bangle’s design and its flat clasp. “It sits beautifully with either an Apple watch or Cartier Tank,” she said. “It can work with a watch, which not all bracelets do well.”

Not far from Ms. McCormack’s boutique in the Mayfair district of London is Hirsh, which has unveiled a new line of diamond-set earrings, bangles and rings in architectural eight- or nine-side shapes.

The design took years to perfect, said Sophia Hirsh, the company’s managing director, with time spent considering the form of the designs, their wearability and ergonomics.

Thanks to the various angles, the jewels deliver wonderful reflections of light, she said. “When the light hits the diamonds and you have these slightly different angles, it will always pick up a lot of extra sparkle,” Ms. Hirsh noted. “It’s a little bit more playful to wear. You want to touch it and feel the different angles.”

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What does freedom actually look like? : It’s Been a Minute

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What does freedom actually look like? : It’s Been a Minute

What freedom looks like today.

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What does freedom mean today?

Happy Juneteenth! For those not in the know, today commemorates when U.S. federal troops arrived in Galveston, Texas in 1865 to take control of the state and ensure that all enslaved people were freed – a full two and a half years after the signing of the Emancipation Proclamation. Since then, Juneteenth has been celebrated all over the country, especially in Texas and across the South, where Juneteenth parades, cookouts, festivals and pageants happen every year. Two weeks from now, the country will celebrate the Fourth of July – and its 250th anniversary. For many Black Americans, there’s always been a tension between these holidays – and their two different ideals for what it means to be free. As voting rights protections are rolled back and Black history is being scrubbed from government websites, what does freedom look like for Black Americans today?

To get into it, Brittany is joined by Dr. Kellie Carter Jackson, chair of Africana Studies at Wellesley College.

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For more episodes about the quality of Black life in America, check out:
Jesse Jackson & the end of the civil rights superhero
Is the economy slowing? Ask Black women.
What to expect when you’re expecting racism

Support Public Media. Join NPR Plus.

Follow Brittany on Instagram: @bmluse

For handpicked podcast recommendations every week, subscribe to NPR’s Pod Club newsletter at npr.org/podclub.

This episode was produced by Corey Antonio Rose and Liam McBain. It was edited by Neena Pathak. We had engineering support from Josephine Nyounai. Our Supervising Producer is Cher Vincent. Our Executive Producer is Barton Girdwood. Our VP of Programming is Yolanda Sangweni.

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The second life of a classic: ‘Amores Perros’ is remastered and back in theaters

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The second life of a classic: ‘Amores Perros’ is remastered and back in theaters

First released in 2000, the acclaimed film Amores perros, which was produced and directed by Alejandro González Iñárritu and written by Guillermo Arriaga, has been remastered and is returning to theaters.

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Before Amores Perros became widely regarded as a modern classic, it belonged to Mexico. The film premiered at the 53rd Cannes Film Festival in 2000, where it won The Grand Prix, launching a run of international acclaim that has never quite ended. This month, Amores Perros is back in theaters in a fully remastered format from its original Kodak film stocks.

The film’s plot centers on three strangers whose lives intersect at the scene of a car crash. Each story wrestles with overlapping issues of social class disparities, crime and familial betrayal. The release in Mexico coincided with the end of the Institutional Revolutionary Party or PRI’s 71-year hold on power. Amores Perros was followed by a period of original, contemporary films in Latin America that would prove the region’s studios could compete with Hollywood in scope and complexity.

One of the film's lead charachters, Octavio, is played by actor Gael García Bernal.

One of the film’s lead charachters, Octavio, is played by actor Gael García Bernal.

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The film marked the directorial debut of Alejandro González Iñárritu, who would go on to win four Academy Awards including back-to-back best director awards for Birdman (2014) and The Revenant (2015). In a recent interview with NPR, Gael García Bernal, a lead actor in Amores Perros, called the film’s launch “a new geography in cinema.”

González Iñárritu and García Bernal spoke with Morning Edition’s A Martinez about their early collaboration and the film’s continued resonance with new audiences.

Listen to the interview by clicking on the blue play button above.

The broadcast version of this story was produced by Margaux Bauerlein.

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What — and who — will be at the Great American State Fair? Here’s a primer

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What — and who — will be at the Great American State Fair? Here’s a primer

Preparations underway for the Great American State Fair, as seen on Washington, D.C.’s National Mall last week.

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A lot is changing these days in Washington, D.C., with even more on the horizon: 10 city blocks of the National Mall will soon transform into a multi-week state fair spectacle, complete with a Ferris wheel, in honor of the country’s 250th birthday.

The “Great American State Fair” will run from June 25 through July 10, promising to bring state-themed pavilions, movie screenings, musical performances, military flyovers, nostalgic snacks, a daily rodeo — and potentially scores of tourists — to the nation’s capital.

It will feature more than 150 exhibits, with full participation across the United States and several U.S. territories, as well as “businesses, innovators and civic organizations,” according to Freedom250, the White House-backed campaign that is organizing the fair in addition to other semiquincentennial events.

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“A master-planned celebration will unfold along the National Mall from the Capitol to the Washington Monument, featuring vibrant pavilions representing every U.S. state and territory,” says the White House website, adding that the beaux-arts style tents will also highlight national themes like agriculture, the arts, faith and family.

Workers started setting up the fair, in view of the U.S. Capitol, in late May.

Workers started setting up the fair, in view of the U.S. Capitol, in late May.

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However, not all states are sending official government delegations to the fair. Officials in more than half a dozen states — including Connecticut, Hawaii, Illinois, Maine, Massachusetts, North Carolina, Oregon, Rhode Island and Washington — confirmed to NPR that they are not participating directly. Most cited financial considerations and a desire to prioritize celebrations in their own communities, though others voiced political concerns.

Rachel Reisner, a spokesperson for Freedom250, emphasized in an email that there is “a vast majority participating” among the states. Additionally, others are being represented by local businesses and organizations — such as two companies from North Carolina and a museum from Illinois.

“Whether represented by a governor’s office, a tourism board, or a beloved state company or organization, every community will be celebrated, and every American will see themselves in this once-in-a-generation event,” Reisner said.

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The state fair is one in a series of patriotic anniversary events planned for D.C. this summer, including the UFC fight night outside the White House last Sunday and a fireworks-heavy July Fourth celebration that President Trump rebranded as a political rally in a Truth Social post on Monday.

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