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Fine Jewelry Designs Exhibit an Urban Flair

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Fine Jewelry Designs Exhibit an Urban Flair

Imaginative ways of playing with light have long been one of jewelry’s key features, and several brands recently added a cool urban twist to that technique. Fine jewelry collections have been introduced with graphic looks that clearly were inspired by city architecture and echoed the signature geometry of Art Deco design.

When Chopard unveiled the latest additions to its Ice Cube collection in September, for example, the house’s marketing material described the pieces as “sculpted by light,” with gridlike patterns set onto gold rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces. Rows of tiny gold cubes, some punctuated with diamonds, evoked an evening cityscape twinkling with lights.

Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, said she took her cue from Bauhaus architecture and its focus on functionality and simplicity. “This minimalist aesthetic appealed to me through its highly graphic lines that use only the original elements, which are light, shape and resistant materials,” she wrote in an email.

And while geometric jewels have been trending for some time, her pieces appear to reflect a pared-back approach. “Minimalism is expressed as an art of living that involves choosing to safeguard essentials, meaning all that is precious and enduring rather than ephemeral,” she wrote. “Ice Cube jewelry embodies this desire to focus on that which is simple, pure, beautiful and lasting.”

The Ice Cube collection includes a variety of pieces, such as rings, hoop earrings, individual ear cuffs and bangles offered in a range of sizes, allowing the wearer to layer or stack pieces according to taste.

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Molly Haylor, the style director at the British edition of Grazia magazine, said the size range reflects the architectural connections of the design trend. “The more adventurous you are with the different ways of stacking, the more exciting it will look and add an element of power to your outfit,” she said. “Because of the shapes and the way they’ve been molded, they all pick up light differently. It does recall the skyscrapers in iconic cities like New York and Chicago or even Tokyo.”

Recent collections at Louis Vuitton and Dior also highlighted graphic looks, notably playing with house design codes.

Louis Vuitton interpreted Damier, the checklike pattern first conceived more than 135 years ago for its trunks and that today adorns products ranging from its ready-to-wear styles to accessories. Now, the motif has found expression in Le Damier de Louis Vuitton fine jewelry collection, featuring diamonds in square settings juxtaposed with polished gold.

The rings are the collection’s most varied pieces, offered in 18-karat white or yellow gold, in different sizes and heights. “When you put them all together they’re like a Lego piece that builds this beautiful structure,” said Ms. Haylor, who added that a graphic, cuff look also could be achieved by stacking Le Damier’s tennis bracelet-inspired bangles.

At Dior, the feminine My Dior collection incorporated the maison’s signature cannage pattern, a lattice look seen on its handbags that is a nod to Christian Dior’s first fashion show. During that event in 1947 at Dior headquarters in Paris, guests sat on Napoleon III chairs with the mesh pattern, which now has made its way to My Dior’s line of rings, earrings and bracelets.

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For each piece, the lattice of fine golden strands is created by hand, then a strip of mirror-polished gold is inserted behind the grid to create a play of light between the strands and the strip. (The light is enhanced even more by the diamonds set in some pieces). The collection debuted in September in 18-karat pink gold or white gold, then in late November expanded into yellow gold, with black lacquer for contrast.

Such large heritage houses are not the only ones to adopt the style.

Jessica McCormack’s new Tapestry collection may recall the embroidered friendship bracelets of the 1980s, but the London-based jeweler said she had been inspired by all manner of graphic forms: mosaics, 1920s floor tiles, murals, even the Tetris video game. The result was a blend of pattern and color, with bold patterns such as the chevron created from emeralds and pink and blue sapphires.

Executing the designs was a complex process, however, as each stone had to be set onto a tiny gold tile, then strung together. “It creates this fabric, liquid-like movement,” said Ms. McCormack, adding, “It was a bit of a nightmare. But I do think the best things always are.”

The colors really pop, she noted, thanks to the rhodium treatment that creates an outline around each tile: blackened white and yellow gold for the blue sapphires and emeralds and blackened white and rose gold for the pink sapphires.

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The biggest surprise of the collection, Ms. McCormack said, was seeing clients wearing the bracelets alongside their watches, something she attributes to the bangle’s design and its flat clasp. “It sits beautifully with either an Apple watch or Cartier Tank,” she said. “It can work with a watch, which not all bracelets do well.”

Not far from Ms. McCormack’s boutique in the Mayfair district of London is Hirsh, which has unveiled a new line of diamond-set earrings, bangles and rings in architectural eight- or nine-side shapes.

The design took years to perfect, said Sophia Hirsh, the company’s managing director, with time spent considering the form of the designs, their wearability and ergonomics.

Thanks to the various angles, the jewels deliver wonderful reflections of light, she said. “When the light hits the diamonds and you have these slightly different angles, it will always pick up a lot of extra sparkle,” Ms. Hirsh noted. “It’s a little bit more playful to wear. You want to touch it and feel the different angles.”

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Hunting For Lexapro Clocks, Viagra Neckties and Other Vintage Pharmaceutical Merch

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Hunting For Lexapro Clocks, Viagra Neckties and Other Vintage Pharmaceutical Merch

Zoe Latta, a co-founder of the fashion brand Eckhaus Latta, saw the clock on Instagram and started searching for pharma swag on eBay. “It was just a hole I got in,” she said. Latta soon rounded up some examples at “Rotting on the Vine,” her Substack newsletter, describing them as “silly byproducts of our sick sad world.”

Pharma swag feels somewhat like Marlboro Man merch — “like this very specific modality of our culture that’s changed,” Latta said, adding, “At first, I thought it was ironic and cheeky. But it’s also so dark.”

In particular, swag like the OxyContin mugs that read “The One to Start With. The One to Stay With” is regarded as highly collectible and highly contentious. Jeremy Wells, a newspaper owner and editor in Olive Hill, Ky., remembered, for example, seeing the mugs sold at a Dollar Tree in New Boston, Ohio, in the late 1990s or early 2000s. “At the same moment that the epidemic is blowing up,” he said.

“You can do a chicken-and-egg argument, and I doubt very seriously that those mugs made anybody get addicted,” he said. “But I do feel like things like those mugs did add to the mystique and the aura of seduction.” (After a protracted lawsuit, Purdue Pharma, the maker of OxyContin, has been dissolved and is on the hook to pay more than $5 billion in criminal penalties for fueling the opioid epidemic.)

“I was surprised to see how much this stuff was selling for in general — there is demand,” Latta said, pointing to a vintage Xanax photo frame listed for $230. Latta said she could imagine buying it for a friend who takes Xanax on planes (“if it was at a thrift store for under $10”) or maybe a pair of Moderna aviator sunglasses that she found, which seem to nod at Covid vaccines and the signature Biden eyewear, she said.

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Pharmacore — medical-branded pieces worn as fashion — has found new expression at the confluence of identity, medicine and commerce, and at a time when skepticism toward pharmaceuticals is at a high (see: the MAHA movement).

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He’s your ex, not your son. Unconditional love does not apply

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He’s your ex, not your son. Unconditional love does not apply

Goth Shakira wears a Blumarine jacket, vintage Jean Paul Gaultier top from Wild West Social House, Jane Wade bra and Ariel Taub earrings.

My ex-boyfriend, whom I just got out of a relationship with, had a pure heart and was a loyal lover. However, he lacked ambition and his family didn’t have the best values. I don’t see myself raising children with him because I don’t want my kids to be surrounded by his family. (I broke up with him on the night of his birthday because his sister got violent with me.) We dated for over a year and I’d always be the one to take care of the check when we’d go out on dates. He had no network, so we would always hang out with my friends and colleagues. Am I wrong for leaving him? Is his loyalty worth going through all that?

Girl. (“Girl” is a gender-neutral term of endearment, by the way.) I’m going to need you to take a deep breath, look at your gorgeous self in the mirror and relish in the fact that you have made the right decision.

First, let’s focus on the good. Loyalty and purity of heart are beautiful traits that many, many people on this earth have. When you find someone who does, and then combine that with your attraction and attachment to this person (along with the reality that many, many people also lack these traits), it makes sense that you’d be feeling like your ex is a rare find that you might not encounter again. However, you can care for someone, and also acknowledge the truth that the life they are setting themself up for is not the life you envision living — or, crucially, the life that you envision your children living. A long-term partnership is so much more than love. It requires a shared vision for fulfillment and happiness, based on compatible values. It necessitates a wholeness from both parties, wherein two individuals take ownership and accountability over their own success and well-being. It is loving to let someone go so they can live their life in peace and free of judgment, and even find someone else whose version of an ideal life more closely matches theirs. Most importantly, letting someone go who you know is not aligned with the life you want to live is a deeply self-loving act.

The meaning I glean from your words is this: It’s not so much that you yearn for him romantically and fear you made a mistake simply because your life is empty without him. (In fact, it sounds like you were the one adding a lot of value to his otherwise limited existence through your resources.) It seems that you feel guilty for leaving him behind as you went on to pursue a better life for yourself. That kind of feeling is more caretaking, and dare I say maternal, than loving (at least the kind associated with romantic partnership). He’s your ex, not your son. Unconditional love is only healthy and appropriate in the context of a parent-child relationship, and that’s not the situation here. People who engage in romantic relationships with men — women, femmes, gay men, etc. — are socialized to be ever-forgiving, to have infinite patience and compassion. The lines get blurred when you do feel kindness and genuine compassion for someone you care about. It can be difficult to discern when you’re being too harsh, and when you’re just setting a healthy boundary. Society makes it difficult for us in that way. But we don’t have to succumb to that pressure.

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You can’t fall in love with someone’s potential. If a person, especially a man, shows up to a relationship as someone you can’t envision spending an extended period of time with, then that’s not your person. Not only is it impossible to truly “fix” or “change” anyone, it’s simply not an efficient or productive use of your precious energetic and material resources. Of course, we all change over time, and hopefully in positive ways. But that change needs to be self-directed, coming from within each individual. “Change” exerted on another through force robs the receiving party of the dignity of authoring their own life path. Even the verbiage of your question indicates that you’ve already extended a lot of generosity and patience toward someone who didn’t feel like working toward social and financial independence, and setting boundaries with their family should have been a top priority. I can sense your exhaustion underneath the guilt. That’s the root of the matter. And what matters is you.

I can sense your exhaustion underneath the guilt.

Loss is just space. It can hurt and feel empty at first. But it also allows you the room you need to expand your world with abundance, not shrink it and drain it into scarcity. Affirm in your heart and in your mind that love itself is an infinite resource. If you channel the patience and generosity that you once put into your ex into a life where you are fulfilled to the utmost, the right person (or people) will find you.

And, girl. Some time from now, when you are loved by a man who takes his own dignity seriously, and supports you in the feminine energy of rest and calm that you deserve to experience and embody, you will be so grateful to this current version of you that had the courage to let go. I’m proud of you.

Photography Eugene Kim
Styling Britton Litow
Hair and Makeup Jaime Diaz
Visual Direction Jess Aquino de Jesus
Production Cecilia Alvarez Blackwell
Photo Assistant Joe Elgar
Styling Assistant Wendy Gonzalez Vivaño

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She Had Seen Her in Photos. Then They Met in Real Life.

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She Had Seen Her in Photos. Then They Met in Real Life.

The kiss finally happened at a Halloween party Chatterjee hosted at her apartment, while the two were watching “American Psycho” on the couch at 3 a.m., when everyone else had gone out for food. “We’re sitting so close our legs are touching and I’m freaking out,” Braggins said.

“I looked at Abby, and I was like, ‘I’d rather kiss you than watch this,’” Chatterjee said. So they did. About a month later, they were official.

On April 10, Braggins suggested they take a trip to Home Goods in Brooklyn. When they ended up at Coney Island Beach instead, Chatterjee was none the wiser. It was an early morning, so the two, along with the dog they adopted together, Willow, enjoyed having the beach to themselves.

Braggins ran ahead with Willow and crouched behind some rocks. When Chatterjee got a glimpse of Willow, there was a bandanna tied around her neck. It said, “Will you marry me?” Braggins pulled out a shell with a ring in it. The answer was yes.

A few days before, Chatterjee had proposed to Braggins amid a gloomy, cloudy sky on top of the Empire State Building.

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The two were married on April 21 at the New York City Marriage Bureau, in front of three guests, by Guohuan Zhang, a city clerk. Afterward, they celebrated at Bungalow, an Indian restaurant in the East Village, with a few more friends.

Though Chatterjee’s parents were not present at the wedding, one of the couple’s most meaningful moments came in 2023, when Braggins traveled to India to meet Chatterjee’s family for the first time. Chatterjee had never brought a partner home before, and she had warned Braggins that same-sex relationships were still not widely accepted there. But by the end of the trip, Chatterjee’s mother had embraced Braggins as family, telling her, “I have two daughters now.”

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