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Hike from Santa Monica to San Diego without a tent. Here’s how to go inn-to-inn.

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Hike from Santa Monica to San Diego without a tent. Here’s how to go inn-to-inn.

Approaching Laguna Beach on the hike from Newport Beach to San Clemente.

(Tom Courtney)

This charming stroll will transport you back to the 1930s, through popular Laguna Beach, with its throngs of tourists and stylish art galleries, to Dana Point, where fishing tourism is big business, and finally San Clemente, equally known for its regal Spanish architecture and surf spots.

As you amble past the rocky shores, you’ll glimpse seabirds, crabs, lobsters and seals. Here you can swim some of the finest beaches Orange County has to offer, so pack your bikini and swim trunks.

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One of the best parts about this hike is getting off the sand and venturing up into the Dana Point Headlands Conservation Area, a 60-acre area with a preserve and a trail system. The trails are flanked by protected fields of unique native plants and animals (the Courtneys and I saw an adorable illustrated sign warning us to stay quiet, because the Pacific pocket mouse might be sleeping nearby), and you’ll be treated to shimmering views of the ocean as you loop through the preserve.

“There are so many beautiful gardens along the Southern California coast, but few protect the native habitat,” Heidi Courtney says. “It is thrilling to hike through the preserve with over 150 native plants and animals. Birds and other pollinators flock to salvia, buckwheat and yarrow. The dramatic silver-leafed Dudleya were blooming gloriously.”

Day 1: Newport Beach to Crystal Cove: 7.2 miles

The route: Start your day by perambulating lazily around the historic Dory Fleet Market, checking out the crab and seafood offerings. For early risers, the market opens at 5:30 a.m. Snag a cronut at the 24-hour Seaside Donuts Bakery or an açai bowl and a Nutella croissant at the Newport Coffee Co., which opens at 6:30 a.m. Powered by caffeine, begin your hike along the beach or the paved walking path to Palm Street, where you’ll turn left. Head toward the harbor, then take the $1 ferry to Balboa Island. Turn right on South Bay Front after departing the ferry, then turn left onto Marine Avenue and cross the bridge to the mainland. Turn right on Bayside Drive, then walk along that street past the yacht clubs and Coast Guard station, turning right on Fernleaf Avenue, which will take you up to Ocean Boulevard. There, you’ll turn left and head down the stairs across from Heliotrope Avenue to Corona Del Mar State Beach. From here, you can make it all the way to Crystal Cove if the tide is low; otherwise, walk on Ocean Boulevard, take a left on Poppy Avenue, take the PCH and head down the paved trail just past Pelican Point Drive, all the way to the Crystal Cove State Park Historic District.

The front of two of the Crystal Cove beach cottages.

Crystal Cove Beach Cottages on the hike from Newport Beach to San Clemente.

(Tom Courtney)

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Where to stay: The Crystal Cove Beach Cottages are a charming collection of 1920s and 1930s cottages and the site of such Hollywood films as 1920’s “Treasure Island.” (If you can’t get reservations here, start early and combine the hikes for days 1 and 2 into an 11.8-mile hike). The cottages are first come, first serve, so book well in advance. You can get a dormitory-style room for $50 to $146 per night or splurge on a cottage to yourself for $228 to $320 per night.

Where to eat: Order ahi tacos, fried calamari and clam chowder at the Beachcomber, itself a quaint cottage with outdoor seating and spectacular sunset views.

Day 2: Crystal Cove to Laguna Beach. 4.6 miles

The route: Go as far as you can on the beach until cliffs block it, about 1.7 miles, then scramble up the hillside to the PCH, continuing along the sidewalk until you hit Crescent Bay Drive. Make a right and head to the end of the drive, where you’ll take two staircases down to Crescent Bay. If low tide is your friend, hike past picturesque rocky points, looking for tide pools full of sea creatures along the way; if not, climb the stairs just before Crescent Bay to the road and take the first right, cut through Heisler Park, where, depending on the time of year, you’ll find flower gardens exploding with roses, birds of paradise and deep blue Pride of Madeira, then take the stairs at the end to Laguna Beach. Consider an extra day’s stay in Laguna Beach to partake of all the pleasures it has to offer, including live music, dozens of indie art galleries and, if the timing is right, the Pageant of the Masters, where costumed actors re-create classic and contemporary paintings to the tune of a live orchestra.

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Where to stay: Book a room or bungalow with a private patio at the Pacific Edge Hotel ($201 to $250, weekdays, $209 to $274 weekends), a modern stay right on the busy main street of Laguna Beach with views of the ocean from many rooms.

Where to eat: The all-day Deck on Laguna Beach (try the juicy mahi mahi sandwich) and the upscale seafood spot Driftwood Kitchen are both just steps from the hotel.

Day 3: Laguna Beach to Dana Point. 9.5 miles

The route: Sip your morning coffee as you watch some of the best surfing along the 200-mile SoCal Coast walkabout, with experts farther out catching waves up to 10 to 15 feet. Tread the sand of Laguna Beach past Halfway Rock to Cactus Point, the latter a rocky promontory with a tunnel near the surf line. Say goodbye to the beach for now just before Cactus Point, ascending the stairs with a black railing to Pearl Street and then turning right on Ocean Way. Turn left on Moss Street and right on the PCH, right on Victoria Drive and then take the stairs to wide, sandy Victoria Beach. Curve around Golf Island, a narrow peninsula with a hefty rock. Hike to Aliso Beach, heading up the stairs to the cliffs if the tide is high; there you’ll find the Lost Pier Cafe, a snack bar with burgers and other casual food. Round Aliso Point to a second set of stairs, which will take you up to West Street. Turn right on the PCH and stroll to Ritz Carlton Drive. Turn right and walk past the Ritz-Carlton (or you can stay the night, adding three miles to Day 4’s hike instead — and $2,000 to your budget). Take the stairs at the end of the parking lot to Bluff Park and Salt Creek Beach Park, then hike along the shore past a paved roadway that juts onto the beach. You can’t continue on the shore because of the cliffs at Dana Point, so take the stairs .3 mile before Dana Point. At the top, head straight up Ocean Front Lane and turn right on Dana Strand Road. Walk it until it ends, passing through a metal gate that will take you directly into Dana Point Preserve and its visitor center. After a brief stop there to learn about the preserve’s flora and fauna, turn right onto Cove Road and make your way to Dana Point Harbor.

Where to stay: The Dana Point Marina Inn ($125 to $175 weekdays, $144 to $279 on weekends), a modest motel with a small pool and free continental breakfast.

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Where to eat: Chomp into crispy Alaskan cod and chips under the heat lamps at Jon’s Fish Market, a cafe that’s a seven-minute stroll from the inn.

Day 4: Dana Point to San Clemente. 6 miles.

A lone hiker walks on San Clemente State Beach.

San Clemente State Beach.

(Tom Courtney)

The route: Today’s hike takes you along a strip of wide sandy beaches. You’ll go from Doheny State Beach to Capistrano State Park to Poche Beach to San Clemente City Beach.

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Start your day by heading from your hotel back to the shoreline at Doheny State Beach. If the tide is low, you’ll be able to wade across San Juan Creek and follow the shoreline all the way to San Clemente Pier. If it’s high tide, and you’re blocked by the seawall protecting the beach development near Poche Beach, head away from the beach toward the Amtrak rails, carefully stepping over them, and onto Park Lantern, walking along that street until it becomes Coast Highway Protected Trail. Alternatively, you can follow a paved bike path from Doheny State Beach to the pier.

Where to stay: The Casa Tropicana Inn ($289 weekdays, $339 weekends) at the San Clemente Pier.

Where to eat: Make your way down the picturesque pier at sunset and request a patio table at the Fisherman’s Restaurant and Bar, where burgers, poke bowls and local Left Coast amber lagers satisfy big appetites.

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Shy on the dance floor? Virtual reality ‘partners’ aim to help you find your groove

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Shy on the dance floor? Virtual reality ‘partners’ aim to help you find your groove

Entrepreneur David Huang tests out a VR headset while conducting demonstrations of the social dance lesson app Dance Guru at the Augmented World Expo in Long Beach, Calif., June 17, 2026.

Chloe Veltman/NPR


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Chloe Veltman/NPR

Wedding season is in full swing, bringing with it a familiar sense of dread for anyone who fears the dance floor.

But relief may finally be at hand with the help of a new app, Dance Guru, and a virtual reality (VR) headset.

The social dance instruction app transports users to a spacious, digital dance studio. Waiting inside is a computer-generated coach: a handsome, male avatar wearing a shirt open to his navel. He speaks with a slightly gravelly English accent.

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“Watch me now,” he instructs at the start of a waltz lesson — which NPR tried out at the Augmented World Expo in Long Beach, Calif., an annual conference showcasing the latest developments in virtual and augmented reality.

The avatar then demonstrates a basic box step.

From there, the lesson becomes interactive. The coach tells the user to hold his hand while an electric pinging sound tracks the student’s foot placement.

“One, two, three, four, five, six,” the virtual teacher counts down.

When the user stumbles, he remains remarkably patient. “Do not worry, foundations take time. Let’s try that again. Work on grounding your steps more intentionally.”

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Solving the beginner’s dilemma

Dance Guru creator David Huang said he came up with the idea for the app a couple of years ago out of frustration.

“I always wanted to learn to dance and I was always terrible at it,” Huang said. “And I always ended up stopping midway through the lessons.”

He soon realized that many beginners hit the exact same roadblocks.

“Private lessons are too expensive, and you feel like you’re always forgetting the dance steps,” Huang said. “You cannot find a partner to dance with. So I figured maybe I can create something like this.”

The Dance Guru platform currently offers tutorials in salsa, bachata, waltz, and cha-cha, in both lead and follow modes. To make the digital instruction feel authentic, Huang used motion-capture technology to record the movements of real-life dance teachers — with their permission.

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Building on the legacy of online tutorials and video games

Dance Guru belongs to a small but growing wave of apps using VR to demystify social dance. At a nearby booth, conference attendee Victor Chen is testing out a competing app called Trip the Light. It currently offers salsa lessons, as well as freestyle options, where a user can dance with a partner without having to learn specific steps.

Trip the Light's booth at the Augmented World Expo included posters of the app's virtual instructors. Real-life performers, who gave Trip the Light permission to motion capture their movements, were used as a basis for these avatars.

Trip the Light’s booth at the Augmented World Expo included posters of the app’s virtual instructors. Real-life performers, who gave Trip the Light permission to motion capture their movements, were used as a basis for these avatars.

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Chloe Veltman/NPR

“A lot of times when you’re trying to learn a choreography, it’s watching a YouTube video and you have to pause it, rewind, and play it,” Chen said. “If you were to have a virtual avatar dancing in front of you and correcting for any parts that you missed, it might be a lot easier.”

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How to have the best Sunday in L.A., according to Deidre Hall

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How to have the best Sunday in L.A., according to Deidre Hall

For half a century, Deidre Hall has taken on every kind of disaster in the drama-packed town of Salem, Ill., as a star of “Days of Our Lives.”

There was the time — actually, it happened twice — when her character, Dr. Marlena Evans, was famously possessed by the devil and even levitated.

Sunday Funday infobox logo with colorful spot illustrations

In Sunday Funday, L.A. people give us a play-by-play of their ideal Sunday around town. Find ideas and inspiration on where to go, what to eat and how to enjoy life on the weekends.

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Or the time a serial killer, who was actually Marlena under hypnosis, seemed to kill several beloved characters. The long-running show’s storylines have become legendary, and in March, while promoting “Hail Mary,” actor Ryan Gosling even gave Hall a shout-out, admitting he was a fan, praising the hard work of soap opera actors and calling her an “OG acting inspiration.”

But Hall’s real life in Santa Monica is much quieter than her character’s, and she likes it that way.

“When I bought my house in Santa Monica, I didn’t realize how great it would be to live near Montana Avenue,” says Hall, 78, about the popular shopping spot. Every day, she walks to the main street with her golden retriever, Riley, and enjoys Pilates, art and good food along the way. “The owners of the Farms Market even keep dog biscuits, so guess where the dog wants to go every time we walk — the Farms, of course,” she says, laughing.

When she isn’t filming the daily soap opera, which airs on Peacock, Hall enjoys raising monarch butterflies, exploring the shops and restaurants on Montana, and hosting movie nights at home with her two sons.

Here’s what a perfect day in L.A. looks like for her.

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This interview has been lightly edited and condensed for length and clarity.

7 a.m.: Breakfast and dog walk

I usually kick off my day with a protein shake, feed our golden retriever and take her out for a walk. She’s a phenomenal girl. When we adopted her, her name was Riley, but I did think about naming her after Mrs. Hughes from “Downton Abbey.”

10 a.m.: Church and garden time

After I walk the dog and go to church, I like to spend some time in my yard. I’m not a natural gardener, but I really enjoy it. I started raising monarch butterflies because my identical twin sister, who played my twin on the show, planted a butterfly garden. Monarchs are amazing because they are transitional. Every year, they travel from Mexico to southern New England, but it’s getting harder for them. Their numbers have dropped by about 80%. To help, I plant milkweed, which is what they need to survive. I buy my milkweed from the Staghorn Garden on Wilshire Boulevard in Santa Monica. Julie, who owns the nursery, is delightful and has a wide variety of milkweed. The monarchs always seem to find my garden. Julie was raising some caterpillars too, and she cared a lot about them. We talked about how important it is to help the butterflies. That’s why I do this. Sometimes I get milkweed with eggs already on it, and Julie knows her butterflies are going to a good home.

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1 p.m.: Walk to Montana Avenue for some lunch

I live near Montana and love taking long walks, going to Pilates and trying out the great restaurants nearby, like R+D Kitchen and La La Land. I’m a big fan of the waffles at the Courtyard Kitchen. Just a few days ago, I had a chicken salad on raisin bread with an Arnold Palmer, and it was delicious. It is right on Montana and has a nice outdoor seating area. It’s one of my favorite spots. La La Land always has a long line in the morning, which is perfect if you want coffee. They serve coffee, doughnuts, croissants and avocado toast. There’s plenty of outdoor seating, and you can even bring your dog.

2 p.m.: Peek inside a clock shop

There’s a small clock shop on Montana Avenue that’s closed on Sundays, but if you walk by, you’ll see all kinds of clocks — standing, table and wall clocks. The owner is great at fixing them. Once, I bought a wall clock from MacKenzie-Childs, but it didn’t work. And I was really upset because it matched everything else on my countertop. I brought it to the owner and said, “I love this, but I can’t make it work.” He fixed it right away. His name is John, but I call him Geppetto. And we all know why. He really does have a magic touch.

2:30 p.m.: Visit a neighborhood art gallery

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Ten Women Gallery is run by 10 artists, all of whom show their work there. I was drawn to some watercolors there, bought a few cards and spoke with one of the artists. She told me, “You seem to love watercolors,” and mentioned that the artist who painted them, Pamela Harnois, lives in Los Angeles and teaches nearby. I got Pamela’s name and found out she taught at the Brentwood Art School. I was so inspired by her gift that I started taking private lessons with her on Saturdays. That gallery is where I discovered my love for watercolor painting.

3 p.m.: Grab some ice cream at Rori’s

The other day, my longtime girlfriend wanted to get ice cream and told me, “We are walking to Rori’s Artisanal Creamery.” It’s a small shop on Montana near Lincoln. They make everything themselves, using local ingredients from grass-fed cows with no added hormones. The place is family-owned and probably has the healthiest ice cream you’ll find. They switch up their flavors often, but my favorite is the salted caramel.

6 p.m.: Family dinner and movie night at home

R+D Kitchen is always packed, so my sons, who are 31 and 33, do the cooking. They come over, and together we make salads and cook dinner. There’s a neighborhood grocery store called the Farms, off Montana, a small family-run place that has everything we need. Everyone knows each other there, and people bring their dogs. We try to have movie night every Sunday. Sometimes the day changes, but we always make sure to have one night a week where we cook a meal and sit down as a family. Keeping that tradition has become really important to us. My sons are great cooks, which is funny because they definitely didn’t get that from me. [Laughs]

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9 p.m.: Take Riley for one last walk and visit neighbors

After dinner, I take my dog for a walk. It’s a great way to meet neighbors. We always go around the same block. We’ve met so many people, and since she’s a golden retriever, she loves meeting everyone.

10 p.m.: News, knitting and bedtime

I am a news junkie, so I usually watch whatever is on the news before I go to bed. I have a long-standing passion for knitting. Lately, though, the news would make me drop a stitch.

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Iris van Herpen Reaches for the Stars

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For Iris van Herpen, couture is a laboratory as much as a runway. Our chief fashion critic, Vanessa Friedman, takes us inside this Dutch designer’s latest Paris show — from sci-fi-inspired gowns to an audacious attempt at a dress made of charged plasma.

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