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Review | By never veering from its recipe, Obelisk remains a top draw in D.C.

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Review | By never veering from its recipe, Obelisk remains a top draw in D.C.


Remark

This a lot I can promise: Nobody goes house hungry after dinner at Obelisk.

The antipasti alone on the Italian standard-bearer is as filling as complete meals are at a few of the competitors.

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Dinner within the slender townhouse in Dupont Circle, so discreet it doesn’t trouble with an indication outdoors, begins subtly sufficient. Somewhat bowl of herbed olives materializes whilst you’re perusing the five-course, handwritten menu. As soon as your order is taken, a plate of burrata exhibits up, together with skinny housemade breadsticks from a wood buffet within the heart of the eating room. You’re taking a style of the cheese from Puglia, glistening with fruity Ligurian olive oil and sparked with cracked pepper, and it’s as should you’re consuming the mix for the primary time. Besides, burrata has been the introduction right here since I began reviewing for The Put up, which says one thing in regards to the enduring attraction of premium components and the consolation of routine.

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A plate of greens will get dropped off. “Puntarelle,” a server says, introducing the crisp hole stalks of a vegetable that Romans gravitate to in winter. The pleasantly bitter salad is slick and scrumptious with anchovy French dressing. On the heels of the greens are a pair folds of smoke-perfumed duck garnished with pickled bitter cherries, purple on purple. I’m marveling on the dance between the fowl and the fruit when some suppli interrupt the efficiency. Just like the burrata, the fried-to-order balls of Arborio rice and mozzarella cheese style a breed aside from a lot suppli on the market. The proportion of crisp-soft rice to stretchy cheese is right, and, just like the puntarelle, a Roman vacation.

“Don’t eat any extra bread,” I warning my eating companion — this, after I wolf down a second piece of crusty sourdough. (Critic, heal thyself. Or MYOB.) Expertise tells me I must tempo myself at Obelisk, nevertheless it’s been so lengthy since my final go to, I really feel like I’m catching up with an previous pal and, effectively, guidelines are supposed to be damaged.

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Any second now, I anticipate my first course. The kitchen has different concepts, particularly creamy lobster salad on a finger of toasted bread — a single, superb chunk that performs up the flavour of the candy seafood.

By no means been to Obelisk? You’re lacking, ahem, rather a lot. Veteran restaurateur Peter Pastan introduced the thought to life in 1987 and finally offered the 27-seat enterprise to longtime worker Esther Lee in 2016. (Pastan is the expertise who had us lapping up Neapolitan pizza when he rolled out 2 Amys in 2001.)

Raised in Columbia, Md., Lee strikes a modest pose, referring to herself as “a child from the suburbs” who went on to graduate from the Culinary Institute of America in 1995. Like her former boss, she eschews consideration. She figures the one motive some folks learn about Obelisk is as a result of her servers insisted she put up just a few images on Instagram. The youthful faces I’ve seen within the restaurant may be the consequence. “They suppose they’re discovering one thing,” says the chef with amusing. In any other case, the clientele tends to be “pure Washington,” as in “unflashy.” No bros, in different phrases.

A $50 Manhattan? Welcome to the period of the ‘unguilty pleasure.’

Lee, 51, has modified so little of the acquainted recipe, any tweak looks like a giant deal. For so long as I can bear in mind, the drill has been 5 programs, with just a few selections per course, in a setting that’s merely dressed with a band of mirrors at eye degree, affording each diner a view, and a few strategically positioned framed drawings and small obelisks. The room shimmers extra nowadays, because of a copper-painted ceiling and silver cloth on the banquettes, however in any other case, it’s the identical cozy enclave I recall from years in the past. In contrast to at so many eating places now, nobody is informed how lengthy they will keep. How very Italian of Obelisk. Pastan is now not a presence, however his presence is felt. “He noticed what different eating places had been doing and did the alternative,” says Lee, who subscribes to the identical, steady-as-she-goes principle.

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Lee says she’s considered chopping again on the flotilla of snacks, “however then I feel, you don’t need to eat all the pieces!” Simpler stated than finished when the crumbs of the antipasti are brushed away and your selection of pasta lands on the green-and-gold place mat. Somewhat leaning tower of lasagna options chestnut pasta and roasted chestnuts, certain in wealthy bechamel and cheese, hinting of speck (smoked ham) and scented with sage. Your eating companion has stopped speaking to you as a result of his gnocchi draped with duck ragu is demanding his full consideration. In contrast to in some locations, the mouth-melting orbs style of potato, not flour. After all you turn plates. After all you may’t declare a favourite. Each pastas are prizes.

Your selections may not be mine, for the straightforward motive Lee modifications her menu each week. If she’s providing pork, hope that it’s one thing much like the plump brined chop I encountered not way back. A server let me know the meat wasn’t shy on seasoning, and she or he was proper. Each slice burst with what the chef calls “porchetta” spice — black pepper, fennel, coriander — and improved within the firm of a mattress of creamy cranberry beans and grill-wizened radicchio. If fish is an choice, anticipate dorade, crisped on one facet and accompanied by a salad of carrots and braised artichokes and a scoop of olivada, a tapenade coaxed from inexperienced olives, parsley and garlic that Lee ought to contemplate promoting as merch.

Are you able to squeeze in some cheese? Sure, you may. The plate is a altering trio of small tastes, a continuing of which is housemade fig jam in winter, which pairs fantastically with the dab of earthy-salty Gorgonzola I acquired. By some means, you rally for dessert as effectively. Silken panna cotta, brilliant with Meyer lemon and draped with golden caramel, appears like the proper finish to the evening, though I admit to leaving no crumb of a companion’s walnut cake, veined with chocolate chips, behind. A scoop of coffee-caramel ice cream negated any want for an espresso.

On this planet of Italian eating places in Washington, Filomena is the place you go for a present, Tosca is the place you go to seal a deal, and Fiola is the place you need to suggest. In distinction, Obelisk appears like a poetry studying graced with chic meals.

Diners who like their meals on the quiet facet will rejoice within the relative peace at Obelisk, which even at prime time registers “dialog is straightforward,” a uncommon prevalence in a great restaurant. Shock No. 2: There’s no musical distraction. The loudest Obelisk will get is the clinking of glasses or muted laughter within the kitchen from time to time.

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Is Lee having enjoyable? My ears counsel she is. So does my tongue.

2029 P St. NW. 202-872-1180. obeliskdc.com. Open for indoor eating 5 p.m. to eight:30 p.m. Thursday by means of Saturday. Costs: 5-course chef’s menu $123, elective wine pairings $83. Sound examine: 64 decibels/Dialog is straightforward. Accessibility: The doorway is reached by way of steep stairs; wheelchair customers can’t be accommodated. Pandemic protocols: Employees are masked and vaccinated.





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Washington

Crews fighting fire at scrap yard in Washington County

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Crews fighting fire at scrap yard in Washington County


WASHINGTON COUNTY, Ohio (WTAP) – First responders are on the scene of a fire at a scrap yard in Washington County.

Not much information is known at this time, but what we do know is the fire is at Guernsey Scrap Recycling.

According to the Reno Volunteer Fire Department Fire Chief Jon Bradford, departments from Reno, Williamstown, Devola, Salem, Little Muskingum, and Marietta are on the scene. All of those departments are shuttling water to the scene.

Scrap yard fire(none)

The fire is contained in one area of the facility. Reno VFD is using the MOV Drone Works drone to help fight the fire. The owner of the scrap yard is in a crane helping to move items to assist firefighters.

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It is not known what started the fire. And Chief Bradford says nobody was injured, and nobody is at risk.

WTAP has a reporter on the scene and will have more information as it becomes available.

See an error in our reporting? Send us an email by clicking here!



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Jayden Daniels Will Keep Commanders Competitive vs. Lions

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Jayden Daniels Will Keep Commanders Competitive vs. Lions


The Washington Commanders have made many changes to go from a four-win team to three wins away from winning the Super Bowl, but none have been more impactful than drafting quarterback Jayden Daniels with the No. 2 overall pick.

Daniels may be a rookie, but he plays like an established veteran. That’s why Bleacher Report writer Maurice Moton believes that the Commanders will be competitive this weekend against the 15-2 Detroit Lions in the Divisional Round.

“The Commanders slowed down the Buccaneers’ third-ranked offense in a road victory last week, and Daniels helped position them to kick the game-winning field,” Moton writes.

“Head coach Dan Quinn and coordinator Joe Whitt have molded the team’s defense into a respectable unit throughout the season. In clutch moments, Daniels is far beyond his years.

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“Washington won’t shut down the Lions offense, but along with Daniels, it can do enough to keep the score margin in the single digits.”

The Commanders are still underdogs since the Lions have arguably been the best team in the NFL this season, but Daniels won’t allow Washington to fold. He hasn’t done so yet, so there’s no reason why it would happen now.

Kickoff between the Commanders and Lions is scheduled for tomorrow at 8 p.m. ET.

Stick with CommanderGameday and the Locked On Commanders podcast for more FREE coverage of the Washington Commanders throughout the 2024 season.

• Commanders Preparing for Lions OC Ben Johnson Who Will ‘Test Your Discipline’

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• Dan Quinn Details Commanders Rookie’s Performance in Playoff Game, He Was Impressed

• What Lions’ Amon-Ra St. Brown Said About Commanders WR, It’s Come Full Circle

• Analyst Predicts Commanders Upset vs. Lions



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George Washington stays unbeaten with 68-41 victory at Capital – WV MetroNews

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George Washington stays unbeaten with 68-41 victory at Capital – WV MetroNews


CHARLESTON, W.Va. — A Capital team short on experience and playing for the first time since New Year’s Eve faced quite a challenge Thursday night as it welcomed one of the state’s most polished teams in nearby rival George Washington.

The Patriots showed no sign of letting a nearby rival hang around and continued their stellar start to the season by never trailing in a resounding 68-41 victory.

“Shooting takes pressure off how we have to defend, but our defense has been the key to everything we’ve done to this point,” veteran GW head coach Rick Greene said.

The result prolongs GW’s unbeaten start to the season through at least its first eight games.

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This one was never in doubt as the Patriots’ combination of efficient offense and lockdown defense left the Cougars playing catch-up throughout.

GW’s Chuck Kelley accounted for the game’s first two field goals and scored his team’s first six points, before Gale Lamb got in on the action and went on a personal 7-0 run that upped the Patriot lead to 14-4.

David Robinson, who led Capital with 17 points, scored five in the opening frame to keep his team within striking distance as it faced a 14-7 deficit entering the second.

After Capital’s Grant Barclay provided a bucket to start the second quarter, it was all GW the remainder of the opening half.

Lamb hit a pair of three-pointers around a Kelley transition layup, forcing the Cougars to call timeout 5:05 before halftime as they trailed 22-9.

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At that point, Lamb was 5 for 5 with 14 points.

“He didn’t take a shot he couldn’t hit,” Greene said. “He is a really good shooter and he’s shooting with a lot of confidence. The kids want him to shoot the ball, so if you’re a shooter and you know your teammates want you to shoot it, it gives you that little bit of freedom and relaxation.”

Out of the break in the action, GW’s Noah Lewis scored inside twice, with teammate Sai’Vyon Brown knocking down a three in between. It was 29-9 at that point, and Kelley accounted for the final points of the half on a follow-up basket to send the visitors to the locker room with a commanding 33-11 advantage.

While Lamb and Kelley were both 5 for 5 with 24 combined points through two quarters, the Cougars were shooting 5 for 16 and being out-rebounded, 15-5.

“The guys coming off the bench are trying to match the defensive intensity of the first five, and that’s making us really good,” Greene said.

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Kelley picked up where he left off to start the second half, scoring five points over the first 1:03.

Capital (2-4) upped the pace itself and Trevaun Tyson was the main beneficiary, scoring all nine of his points in the third quarter.

The Cougars doubled the first-half field goal total in the third period alone, making 10-of-15 shots to keep pace with the Patriots for that 8-minute stretch.

“It was a nice conversation at halftime,” Capital head coach Cookie Miller said. “We got them going a little bit and we have to come out like that at the beginning. It was a rough 18 days, but that’s not excuse. We had great practices for us to give that showing, but at the end of the day, hats off to them for knowing their plays and getting into things. They’ve been together for a long time.”

Unfortunately for Miller’s team, Lamb maintained his efficient play and scored nine points in the frame to spark GW’s 22-point quarter.

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That allowed the Patriots to lead 55-32 entering the fourth, and they cruised from there.

GW made 25-of-44 shots to shoot better than 56 percent. Lamb led all players with 24 points and made 7-of-8 shots. Kelley was also 7 for 8 and scored 15.

Noah Lewis chipped in with seven points and a game-high 10 rebounds, while Jeff Harris added five points and eight boards. That duo was instrumental in allowing GW to finish with a convincing 36-16 rebounding edge.

Tyson had half of his team’s boards. 

The Cougars made 18-of-45 shots, but only one three-pointer to the Patriots’ five.

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“Those guys have been together for a long time. Kudos to them,” Miller said. “Greene has them moving and doing what they’re supposed to doing. We’re trying to get on their level and soon we will be on their level.”



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