Hawaii
Volcano Watch — ʻAilaʻau or Kualoloa? Hawaiian chants suggest lava flow name change – West Hawaii Today
Native Hawaiian oral traditions record a rich history of the changing volcanic landscape in Hawai‘i. Interweaving cultural knowledge with scientific disciplines can provide a more complete understanding of past events, including the largest known lava flow eruption of Kilauea.
During the 1970s, Robin Holcomb conducted his doctoral field work and research on Kilauea while working at the USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory. His work included mapping a series of lava flows (now called a flow field) that began erupting in the early-1400s from a vent near the eastern end of what is now Kilauea Iki crater, in the summit region of Kilauea volcano. Now, we know that the flow field was active for about 60 years and traveled in a northeast direction (as well as a small south branch), covering most of the Puna District north of the East Rift Zone of Kilauea. Holcomb referred to this flow field as “Aila‘au” after a reference he found in William D. Westervelt’s “Hawaiian Legends of Volcanoes,” published in 1916.
In ‘Olelo Hawai‘i (the Native Hawaiian language), ‘Aila‘au is to “consume trees.” Trees can be consumed by rot, or can topple during windstorms, lightning strikes, floods, and lava flows. ‘Aila‘au is also thought, by some, to have been an elemental force associated with volcanic activity prior to the arrival of Pelehonuamea (Pele of the reddish earth) in the Hawaiian Islands.
Holcomb noted that his choice of ‘Aila‘au as a name was provisional given that he only found it in one reference, and he was under a publication deadline. Hawaiian language sources during the last 40 years have rapidly become more available. Recently, researchers have been reminded of “Kualoloa,” a chant that accurately describes the emplacement of the flow field that Holcomb named ‘Ail‘au.
The chant “Kua loloa,” published in 1915 by Nathaniel Emerson in “Pele and Hiiaka, A Myth From Hawaii,” describes an eruption that began in the upland (ma uka) portions of the ahupua‘a (Native Hawaiian land division) of Keaʻau. The chant describes a broad geographic area affected by the eruption. The forests of Pana‘ewa and ‘Ola‘a were destroyed, with “a blanket of smoke” covering Puna all the way to ‘Apua.
Much of the District was devastated, according to the chant, which documents Pele destroying forests belonging to her sister, Hi‘iaka, as a result of a serious misunderstanding between them. Examining familiar place names in the chant, compared to the geographic extent of the flow field mapped by Holcomb, suggests that the chant chronicles the lava flows that he had named ‘Aila‘au. However, there is no mention of ‘Aila‘au in the Kualoloa chant.
The upland border of Kea‘au ahupua‘a, where the Kualoloa chant notes the eruption began, is near the eastern end of Kilauea Iki, where the mapped vent of the lava flows is located. The chant describes Pele moving northeast into Puna, through ‘Ola‘a and Pana‘ewa, following the mapped lava flow paths. A relatively small flow moved southward from the vent to ‘Apua, just as the chant implies.
A modern understanding of the timing of this eruption and its geographic extent, as well as more detailed knowledge of Native Hawaiian traditional place names, allows us to correlate the 15th-century eruption to the Kualoloa chant. This is an example illustrating the complex relationship between Native Hawaiian oral traditions and specific volcanic events and lava flows as documented in the geologic record.
Native Hawaiian oral traditions and scientific papers have different intended audiences and use their own vocabularies. Events described in chants are not “time-stamped,” but careful study of them, together with knowledge of place names, and clues from scientific evidence of natural phenomena, sometimes allow us to construct correlations between seemingly disparate sources of knowledge. What Holcomb had provisionally referred to as the ‘Ail‘au flow field, we now know should be labeled in future publications the Kualoloa flow field.
Volcano
activity updates
Kilauea is not erupting. Its USGS Volcano Alert level is ADVISORY.
Over the past week, earthquake rates beneath Kilauea summit and upper-to-middle East Rift Zone were half that of the previous week. About 15 earthquakes were located beneath the summit, and about 30 were located in the upper-to-middle East Rift Zone. Ground deformation rates continue to show slow inflation at the summit and near the September 15-20 middle East Rift Zone eruption site. Future intrusive episodes and eruptions could occur with continued magma supply.
Mauna Loa is not erupting. Its USGS Volcano Alert Level is at NORMAL.
One earthquake was reported felt in the Hawaiian Islands during the past week: a M3.1 earthquake 14 km (8 mi) S of Fern Forest at 6 km (4 mi) depth on Nov. 13 at 2:22 a.m. HST.
HVO continues to closely monitor Kilauea and Mauna Loa.
Please visit HVO’s website for past Volcano Watch articles, Kilauea and Mauna Loa updates, volcano photos, maps, recent earthquake information, and more. Email questions to askHVO@usgs.gov.
Volcano Watch is a weekly article and activity update written by U.S. Geological Survey Hawaiian Volcano Observatory scientists and affiliates.
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Hawaii
Everyone Says Oahu’s Overcrowded. We Drove 20 Minutes Past Haleiwa And Found Beautiful Empty Beaches
Most visitors think Oahu’s North Shore stops at Haleiwa because that is where traffic builds to pandemonium, where beach parking fills earlier than you can imagine, and where sitting in your car between the familiar lineup of surf breaks and food trucks largely defines the experience. Once people have crawled through and found a place to stand at Waimea or Sunset, the mental box gets checked, and the car points back toward Honolulu fast, as if everything worth seeing has already been seen. But it hasn’t.
Instead of turning around at Haleiwa, we continued west on Farrington Highway and watched the storefronts fall away in the rearview mirror. The line of rental cars thinned fast as the road narrowed and the mountains got closer to the pavement. On the ocean side, long stretches of sand opened up, and within a few miles, we were seeing more wind in the ironwood trees than cars on the road or people on the beach.
Most visitors leaving Haleiwa head east toward Sunset Beach and Pipeline, where traffic stacks up endlessly and parking lots overflow. We went the other way. Out toward Mokuleia, the commercial North Shore disappears fast, and what replaces it is space. There are no visitors circling for stalls and no steady lines at food trucks. You can pull over without searching for the one open spot in a packed lot, and entire sections of beach sit quietly without the usual cluster.
Dillingham Airfield and the working North Shore.
One of the first landmarks after Mokule’ia Beach (which we will write about soon) is what most people still call Dillingham Airfield, though its official name is Kawaihapai Airfield. It is owned by the U.S. Army and managed by the State of Hawaii Department of Transportation under a 50-year lease, and it has been operated as a military installation since the 1920s, with HDOT taking over management in 1962. HDOT leases 272 acres of the 650-acre Dillingham Military Reservation and operates the single 9,000-foot runway, with the civilian side used heavily for gliders and skydiving while the Army retains first priority for air/land operations and uses the field for helicopter night-vision training.
As we drove past, it did not feel like a visitor attraction at all, even though you can spot the roadside signs for glider rides and skydiving. A small single-engine plane rolled down the runway and lifted off against the Waianae Mountains, then a glider followed, towed upward before separating and moving almost silently above the coastline. It is one of those North Shore scenes that makes you slow down without thinking about it, because it looks like real working Oahu rather than the marketed version, with runway, mountains, and open water all in the same frame and very few people around to make it feel like a production.
Camps that have been here for generations.
Close to the airfield are two oceanfront camps that rarely enter any typical Oahu visitor’s plans. The first is Camp Mokuleia, which sits along the shoreline and is owned by the Episcopal Church. If you’re not on a retreat, you can rent a campsite or tentalo on the beach. A little farther west is YMCA Camp Erdman, which opened in 1926 and is approaching its 100th anniversary, still renting oceanfront cabins and yurts to the public.
The accommodations are straightforward, with sand steps away from the doors and long views of the horizon. This is not a resort strip, and you won’t find any valet stands or infinity pools. Families gather around grills, kids move freely between cabins and the beach, while the ocean feels part of the daily backdrop more than it is an Instagram photo opportunity.
Camp Mokuleia tentalos start at $100 a night. Camp Erdman yurts and cabins range from $250-$450 per night for up to 6 guests. For context, the average vacation rental in the Mokuleia area lists above $500 a night.
The shoreline here is not known for calm, protected swimming, and currents can be strong without lifeguard towers stationed every few hundred yards. The beach also has a lot of coral, which keeps swimmers more limited than some other beaches. And that fact alone keeps casual beach traffic lighter, and it helps explain why this stretch feels so different from busier Oahu North Shore stops. The camps and the character of the water belong to the same landscape, shaped more by geography than by commercial branding.

Where the pavement ends.
Eventually, Farrington Highway reaches a gravel lot where the pavement stops and a locked gate marks the entrance to the Mokuleia section of Kaena Point State Park. There is no visitor center funneling people through an entrance plaza. Instead, there is open sky, steady trade winds, and a handful of parked cars facing a dirt road that continues on foot toward the westernmost tip of Oahu, where you can meet the road that comes from the other side. This is truly a part of Oahu that most visitors never see.
Hikers follow the old railroad route for roughly 2.7 miles to Kaena Point itself, where seabirds nest behind protective fencing and monk seals are sometimes seen along the shore. The trail is exposed, hot, and largely flat, with no services and little shade, which naturally limits casual foot traffic. Consider not trying it in the middle of the day. But, standing at the end of the paved road, with the Waianae Mountains behind you and nothing but raw coastline ahead, feels less like arriving at any Oahu attraction and more like standing at the literal end of the island.
What stood out most was how little competition there was for space. There were only a few cars in the lot when we arrived, and long portions of the beach were untouched compared with the chaotic churn nearby at Haleiwa. It was a bit windy, the mountains anchored one side of the horizon, and the coastline extended westward without any indication that you were sharing it with scattered other people.
If you have been to the North Shore more than once and believe you have already seen it, have you ever kept driving past Haleiwa until the pavement runs out? It’s worth the drive.
Photo Credits: © Beat of Hawaii at Kaena Point State Park, Oahu.
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