Plan an epic 6-day road trip on the island of Hawaii. Photo / Getty Images
My husband and I are on a night-time manta ray snorkel experience with Anelakai Adventures, a locally owned, eco-friendly outfitter. Anelakai takes a different approach to ocean excursions. Instead of using a motorboat, six guests and two guides paddle out to sea in a double-hulled canoe.
At a spot just offshore, those who want to snorkel get in the water. Special lights between the hulls draw the plankton, which draws the manta rays. Great care is taken not to disturb the animals. We simply float and watch their dance below.
Planning the journey
Our night-time snorkel sets the tone for our six-day road trip on Hawaii island, also known as the Big Island. You can drive around Hawaii’s largest island in just eight hours, but why rush? We plan to take our time exploring Hawaii island’s different regions.
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The island’s five volcanoes – Kīlauea, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, Hualālai and Kohala – create distinct climate zones ranging from wet tropical to hot desert to polar tundra. The youngest in the island chain, the island of Hawaii’s volcanic roots are easily seen in vast lava flows.
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Mauna Loa, the world’s largest active volcano, makes up over half the Big Island. Photo / 123rf
Exploring Kailua-Kona
We begin our journey in Kailua-Kona, a seaside town 15 minutes south of the airport. Once a sleepy fishing village, it’s now a vibrant hub of resorts, shopping and dining. Our rental condo serves as a perfect base for exploring the area.
We enjoy local cuisine at Huggo’s on the Rocks and Foster’s Kitchen, each offering its take on fresh island ingredients. One afternoon we stop at Kona Brewing Company, Hawaii’s largest craft brewery. Their beer is well known in the US and we sample several craft brews, including a few with tropical twists.
Unwind at Kona Brewing. Photo / Janna Graber
Historical heritage
Nearby, we visit King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Resort on the historical grounds of Kamakahonu Bay. A tour with the resort’s cultural guide, Kalei, reveals the rich history of the area, including Ahu’ena Heiau, a temple of peace and prosperity built by King Kamehameha I in the early 1800s to honour Lono, the god of fertility.
The resort houses an impressive collection of Hawaiian art and historical artifacts that bring the island’s past to life. Through Kalei’s stories, we gain deeper insight into Hawaiian culture, history and values.
Underwater wonders
For me, Hawaii means time at the beach. The waters around the island of Hawaii offer some of the best snorkelling in the Hawaiian chain. At Kahalu’u Beach Park, protected reefs create calm waters teeming with marine life.
While snorkelling, I see spotted boxfish with their endearing doe-like eyes, comical blue spine unicornfish, and schools of brilliant-yellow tang darting through the clear water. The protected bay provides safe waters for both novice and experienced snorkellers, making it an ideal spot for underwater exploration.
The waters around the island of Hawaii offer some of the best snorkelling in the Hawaiian chain. Photo / Getty Images
South coast adventures
Moving on, we head south along the coast, stopping at Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau, the Place of Refuge. This 72ha national historic park was once royal grounds and a sanctuary for ancient Hawaiian lawbreakers. Those who broke sacred laws could find redemption here, protected by the mana (spiritual power) of 23 chiefs whose bones were preserved in the Hale o Keawe temple. Today, the area remains an important part of Hawaiian culture, preserving ancient traditions and stories for future generations.
Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau was once a sanctuary for ancient Hawaiian lawbreakers. Photo / Janna Graber
Our coastal drive continues to Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach where tall coconut palms frame the striking black sand. We’re lucky to see four Hawaiian green sea turtles resting on the shore, a testament to the island’s rich marine life.
Along the way, we stop at Punalu’u Bake Shop, the southernmost bakery in the US, to try malassadas, a Portuguese-inspired sweet bread that’s become a local favourite. The warm, sugar-dusted treats are irresistible and provide a perfect road trip snack.
The next phase of our journey takes us to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park where we stay at the charming Kilauea Lodge in the rainforest at the foot of Mount Kīlauea. The island of Hawaii has two active volcanoes, Mauna Loa and Kīlauea, both of which are part of the national park.
Mauna Loa, the largest active volcano on the planet, makes up 51% of Hawaii island, but Kīlauea is the main attraction at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The volcano has produced steady lava flows for years, drawing visitors from all over the world. Since 2018, eruptions and lava flow have been off and on.
Kīlauea is the main attraction at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Photo / Getty Images
Our first stop is the visitor centre where we learn Kīlauea and Mauna Loa are sacred landscapes deeply connected to native Hawaiian culture. We hike along a paved trail to the crater, watching in awe as steam rises from vents in the earth. While we didn’t see any lava flows during our visit, the most recent summit eruption paused on January 3.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park features trails that pass active volcanic vents. Photo / Janna Graber
The Hilo side
Our road trip takes us on to Hilo, the island’s second-largest town. Here, we explore Liliʻuokalani Gardens, the largest ornamental Japanese garden outside Japan, where we find tranquillity among the pagodas, koi ponds and carefully manicured plants.
At Rainbow Falls, we time our visit for the morning when the sun faces the waterfall, creating magical rainbows in the mist. We take our time listening to the peaceful sound of cascading water before stopping at Big Island Candies, renowned for its chocolate-dipped shortbread and other local sweet treats.
Rainbow Falls. Photo / Janna Graber
Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast
We’ve saved one of our favourite spots on the island for the end of our trip – two days at the Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast. The resort’s 12ha of tropical gardens, waterfalls and white-sand beach provide a perfect setting for relaxation.
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One highlight is an early-morning outrigger canoe trip to greet the sunrise over Maunakea. Our guide, Elisha, who grew up on the island, shares his love of Hawaii with fascinating stories. When the sun begins to rise, he blows the conch in welcome, chanting an ancient Hawaiian oli, a chant of gratitude. In the following silence, we listen to the waves in a moment of deep reflection.
Our last day is spent enjoying the resort’s amenities with its Fun & Sun Activity Pass, which gives us access to snorkelling gear, stand-up paddleboards, kayaks and boogie boards. We spend hours exploring Pauao Bay where natural sea walls protect a healthy coral reef teeming with sea turtles, puffer fish and countless other marine species.
As the sun sets on our final evening, we dine at the oceanside Brown’s Beach House restaurant, watching the sky paint itself in brilliant oranges over the Pacific. Sitting under waving palm trees with the warm night air around us, it’s a perfect farewell to this remarkable island.
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The Fairmont Orchid offers outrigger canoe sunrise trips and traditional Hawaiian chants. Photo / Janna Graber
Checklist
The island of Hawaii
Getting there
Fly non-stop from Auckland to Honolulu with Air NZ and Hawaiian Airlines in about 8 hours 30 minutes, then connect to Kona International Airport on the island of Hawaii.
Hawaii has been awarded nearly $190 million in federal funding to augment rural health care under President Donald Trump’s “Big Beautiful Bill” through a plan co-written by Democratic Gov. Josh Green.
Green told the Honolulu Star-Advertiser Monday that the amount of funding means Hawaii now ranks sixth in the country per capita in federal rural health care funding. He said it’s the result of working with fellow Pennsylvania native and physician Dr. Mehmet Oz, administrator for the federal Centers for Medicare &
Medicaid Services.
Green started his Hawaii medical career treating
rural, low-income patients at Hawaii island’s Kau Hospital &Rural Health Clinic.
Hawaii’s initial $188,892 million in rural health care funding for the current fiscal year is scheduled to be followed by additional awards through 2030.
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Green serves as vice chair of the Western Governors’ Association and said rural health care needs affect both red and blue states.
“The whole country’s dealing with this,” he said.
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For the last three years, Green has won state legislative support for $30 million in annual state funding to pay down student loans for a wide range of Hawaii health care workers, not just physicians and nurses.
Green hopes the new federal Rural Health Transformation Program funding, the ongoing Hawaii Education Loan Repayment Program, called HELP, and his ongoing push to develop affordable housing for first responders, teachers, health care workers and other necessary workers combine to erase Hawaii’s shortage of 50,000 health care by 2030.
The new, rural health care funding through the Centers for Medicare &Medicaid Services “comes at a perfect time,” Green said. “This could level the playing field.”
For a country divided along partisan political lines, Green said the rural health care funding serves as “a tool to bridge that gap between red and blue states.”
Despite political differences over Trump Administration policies — especially Green’s opposition to Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr.’s vaccination policies — Green said he continues to work with Trump and Trumps’ cabinet and administration officials to reduce the impact of federal funding cuts to Hawaii.
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Green previously told the Star-Advertiser that his current state budget proposal was drafted to respond to the likelihood that more federal funding cuts will occur this year, including the possibility of tapping into the state’s $1.6 billion rainy day fund as tourism and the overall Hawaii economy continue to slow.
The Council on Revenues is scheduled to make its
latest economic forecast on Wednesday, which will give Green and legislators more guidance on how to prepare for what might lie ahead as the legislative session begins on Jan. 21.
Hawaii and Utah remain the only states with no legal gambling but efforts to legalize some form of gambling — from a lottery to Las
Vegas-style casinos — are
introduced every year at the Legislature.
This year likely will be no exception but Green said any gambling proposals, in his mind, “have got to be part of solving our social ills,” such as housing and health care.
Recruiting and retaining health care workers — especially in rural areas — remains a national problem and in July Green’s administration began organizing health care officials to come up with
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>> A state digital network linking hospitals, clinics and health centers called the
Rural Health Information Network to access health records and other data.
>> A statewide Pili Ola Teleheath Network for rural communities to connect to with health care providers and access telehealth training.
>> Expand emergency medical services, mobile health care, community paramedicine and behavioral health in rural areas through Rural Infrastructure for Care Access.
>> A pipeline to provide workforce training, residencies, scholarships and mentoring to recruit and retain rural health care workers through a Hawai‘i Outreach for Medical Education in
Rural Under-resources Neighborhoods program called HOME RUN.
>> Expand Green’s homeless “medical respite” kauhale village concept to the neighbor islands that has proven to reduce medical costs, emergency room visits and health care worker time treating homeless
patients who rely on paramedics and ambulances to transport them to Oahu
hospitals.
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Housing people with medical issues in kauhale, where they can receive treatment, “is better than having people on the street or in the E.R.,” Green said. “We’ve saved
tens of millions of dollars.”
>> Dedicate a fund to help rural health care providers develop new models to ensure quality and access to rural health care.
At the same time, Green has not given up that Congress could still vote to extend health care subsidies for people who receive their health care through the
Affordable Care Act.
Congress failed to extend the subsidies at the end of 2025, leading Affordable Care Act costs to double in many instances.
For Republicans seeking re-election this year, Green said failing to extend the subsidies “is like dropping a nuclear bomb on the mid-term elections.”
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For low-income patients, in particular, Green said, “That’s how you go bankrupt. This will be the ultimate game changer in the mid-terms if they don’t extend the Affordable Care Act subsidies.”
Hawaiian Airlines today announced an investment of more than $600 million over five years to improve airport passenger areas across the state and interior upgrades to widebody aircraft.
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Hawaiian Airlines CEO Diana Birkett Rakow told the Honolulu Star-Advertiser ahead of today’s announcement at Daniel K. Inouye International Airport that other improvements will include better apps, a better website that will make it easier for passengers to change flights, among other things that also include better integration with Alaska Airlines, which acquired Hawaiian in 2024, making it a subsidiary of Alaska Air Group.
“We have pushed a lot of change through the system for the last couple of months,” Rakow said. “We’re working on integrating our ticketing systems because right now we’re on two separate ticketing systems that don’t talk to each other.”
After late April, she said, booking on the shared Alaska Air and Hawaiian Air ticketing system “will be much more seamless.”
In announcing the renovations and changes, Hawaiian pledged “a significantly smoother guest experience … once Hawaiian Airlines and Alaska Airlines share the same passenger service system and Hawaiian Airlines joins the oneworld alliance, both scheduled for late April.”
Right now, Rakow acknowledged, “unfortunately there is some friction.”
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“There’s been so many changes and all of that friction is really painful,” she said. “We are committed to making sure we are addressing the issues. … We are certainly not perfect, but we are committed to working together. … Really, after April, it is going to improve significantly.”
Each island airport also will see renovated lobbies and gates designed to increase comfort, provide better seating and amenities such as improved power charging.
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Daniel K. Inouye International also will get a new 10,600-square-foot lounge at the entrance of the Mauka Concourse in Terminal 1.
And starting in 2028, Hawaiian’s wide-body Airbus A330s will get new seats, carpets, lighting, business class suites, a Bluetooth-enabled in-flight entertainment system with high-definition screens and free Starlink Wi-Fi.
Gov. Josh Green said in a statement ahead of today’s announcement that, “Hawaiian Airlines’ investment is exactly the kind of long-term commitment Hawaiʻi needs. Modern, welcoming airports improve the experience for residents and visitors alike, strengthen our economy and keep Hawaiʻi competitive as a global destination. We appreciate Hawaiian Airlines’ partnership in advancing workforce development, regenerative tourism, clean energy, and community programs that reflect the values of our islands.”
The New Year began with a .75% increase in Hawaii’s Transient Accommodations Tax that will help the state fight climate change.
Rakow said that Hawaiian is working to better inform inbound passengers about how to respect Hawaii’s culture and environment.
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Hawaiian said it will continue to support “programs promoting regenerative tourism, culture and conservation.”
The airline also said it will fund grants to nonprofit organizations “promoting cultural programs, environmental preservation, and perpetuation of native Hawaiian art and language through the Alaska Airlines | Hawaiian Airlines Foundation.”
As 2025 came to an
end, a climate report released by the Council on Strategic Risks outlined how climate change could threaten both Hawaii’s civilian and military communities, and how cuts to programs that monitor weather and other environmental threats could leave both more vulnerable.
The report by CSR — a non-partisan security policy institute based in Washington, D.C. — warns that “with its diverse landscapes and geographic isolation, Hawai‘i is exceptionally vulnerable to the impacts of climate change. Shifting rainfall and seasonal patterns affect local food security and biodiversity; heat and drought stress water supplies, impacting human health and increasing wildfire risk; and coastal flooding and inundation threaten economic security, including infrastructure, agriculture, and tourism.”
The report noted that under a high-emissions scenario in which the world does nothing to reduce current green gas emissions, coral reef loss in the islands is projected to result in an economic loss of up to $1.3 billion per year by 2050. It also noted that Hawaii is the third-most vulnerable U.S. state to temperature-related deaths, and that greater heat wave intensity is straining energy and water infrastructure across the islands.
Rainfall and stream flow have declined across Hawaii since the 1990s, with 90% of the state receiving less rainfall than it did a century ago.
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Over the last three decades military leaders in
Hawaii, which is the nerve center for military operations across the Pacific, have tracked how changing climate is altering the strategic landscape of the region, calling it a potential “threat multiplier.”
Security analysts have warned that droughts, sea level rise and other changes risk fueling displacement of communities and competition over resources, potentially destabilizing countries or entire regions. More recently, melting arctic ice caps have been opening up new waterways that China and Russia seek to take advantage of, while strategic U.S. facilities on Guam and in the Marshall islands have been hit by storms and rogue waves that have disrupted operations.
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But in the White House’s National Security Strategy released last month, the administration of President Donald Trump said it “reject the disastrous ‘climate change’ and ‘Net Zero’ ideologies that have so greatly harmed Europe, threaten the United States, and subsidize our adversaries.” The document also said the administration considers “restoring American energy dominance” with oil, gas and coal to be a top priority in order to fuel the growth of artificial intelligence and data centers.
At the same time, the administration also has sought deep cuts to environmental monitoring and research programs, including partnerships in Hawaii. Hawaii has made plans for $6 billion in climate adaptation projects to compensate for sea level rise, including port renovations, dredging and wetland restoration.
“I think every administration gets to set its priorities, but they don’t always match what states want,” said Jessica Kehaulani Wong, a fellow at the Pacific Islands Climate Adaptation Science Center who authored the CSR’s study.
“Local governments and communities want to address climate hazards that are not just theoretical, but are from lived experiences. So I think federal funding cuts have spurred conversations around diversifying funding sources for local adaptation projects.”
Among the programs the Trump administration is looking to eliminate is the Pacific Islands Ocean Observing System, which provides real-time observations of wave height, current strength, wind speed, shoreline inundation and other ocean conditions. In Hawaii that data is used by commerical freighters and other civilian mariners as well as the U.S. Navy and Coast Guard to plot courses around storms and safely navigate harbors.
That’s part of a $1.3 billion reduction in the budget of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration that the CSR report said would “would also dismantle regional climate adaptation partnerships that help Hawai‘i plan for rising sea levels, and reduce the accuracy of hurricane forecasting by limiting investments in satellite data.”
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There is also a $558 million — or 38% — reduction in funding across the U.S. Geological Survey, which the report said “would impact its ability to provide scientific information that supports the management of water, ecosystems, and land resources in Hawai’i and mitigate risks from natural hazards. It could end collaborations in Hawai‘i that monitor invasive species, sea level rise, and wildfire risks.”
Fire-prone invasive grasses and other vegetation have become prevalent throughout the islands and played a central role in the deadly 2023 Lahaina wildfire, Hawaii’s deadliest disaster. These plants thrive in hot, dry environments, crowding out and replacing native species and spreading further.
These grasses and other invasive species have spread across military bases, already impacting operations. Fires have disrupted training, and in some cases been caused by military training. Wong said “let’s say that a wildfire reaches infrastructure where weapons caches or explosive are stored, that would not be good.”
“Military installations and service members, they don’t exist in a vacuum, they pull from the same resources — food, water, energy — as the communities that they’re in,” Wong said. “And so any climate or ecological hazards that impact communities are also going to impact service members and national security
operations.”
A Pentagon study in 2018 — during the first Trump
administration — found that nearly half of all U.S. military sites were threatened by weather linked to climate change, especially coastal bases in Hawaii like Pearl Harbor, Marine Corps Base Kaneohe and the Pacific
Missile Range Facility.
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But current Defense Secretary Pete Hegseth has said that he intends to put an end to “climate change worship” in the military. He has aggressively worked to shut down environmental programs and his team has largely prohibited military personnel from discussing the possibility that climate change could impact their operations.
In April, Navy Secretary John Phelan scrapped the service’s climate action program, declaring in a video posted to the social media platform X that “we need to focus on having a lethal and ready naval force, unimpeded by ideologically motivated regulations.”
“If these projects aren’t able to continue due to loss of funding, simply put, it will leave us all unprepared — governments, local communities and military — for the climate hazards that will come if global cooperation to reduce emissions is not achieved,” Wong said. “And there’s a cost whether you pay for it upfront before a natural disaster hits, or you pay for it after to recover from it. And post disaster recovery usually costs a lot more.”