My husband and I are on a night-time manta ray snorkel experience with Anelakai Adventures, a locally owned, eco-friendly outfitter. Anelakai takes a different approach to ocean excursions. Instead of using a motorboat, six guests and two guides paddle out to sea in a double-hulled canoe.

At a spot just offshore, those who want to snorkel get in the water. Special lights between the hulls draw the plankton, which draws the manta rays. Great care is taken not to disturb the animals. We simply float and watch their dance below.

Planning the journey

Our night-time snorkel sets the tone for our six-day road trip on Hawaii island, also known as the Big Island. You can drive around Hawaii’s largest island in just eight hours, but why rush? We plan to take our time exploring Hawaii island’s different regions.

The island’s five volcanoes – Kīlauea, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, Hualālai and Kohala – create distinct climate zones ranging from wet tropical to hot desert to polar tundra. The youngest in the island chain, the island of Hawaii’s volcanic roots are easily seen in vast lava flows.

Exploring Kailua-Kona

We begin our journey in Kailua-Kona, a seaside town 15 minutes south of the airport. Once a sleepy fishing village, it’s now a vibrant hub of resorts, shopping and dining. Our rental condo serves as a perfect base for exploring the area.

We enjoy local cuisine at Huggo’s on the Rocks and Foster’s Kitchen, each offering its take on fresh island ingredients. One afternoon we stop at Kona Brewing Company, Hawaii’s largest craft brewery. Their beer is well known in the US and we sample several craft brews, including a few with tropical twists.

Historical heritage

Nearby, we visit King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Resort on the historical grounds of Kamakahonu Bay. A tour with the resort’s cultural guide, Kalei, reveals the rich history of the area, including Ahu’ena Heiau, a temple of peace and prosperity built by King Kamehameha I in the early 1800s to honour Lono, the god of fertility.

The resort houses an impressive collection of Hawaiian art and historical artifacts that bring the island’s past to life. Through Kalei’s stories, we gain deeper insight into Hawaiian culture, history and values.

Underwater wonders

For me, Hawaii means time at the beach. The waters around the island of Hawaii offer some of the best snorkelling in the Hawaiian chain. At Kahalu’u Beach Park, protected reefs create calm waters teeming with marine life.

While snorkelling, I see spotted boxfish with their endearing doe-like eyes, comical blue spine unicornfish, and schools of brilliant-yellow tang darting through the clear water. The protected bay provides safe waters for both novice and experienced snorkellers, making it an ideal spot for underwater exploration.

South coast adventures

Moving on, we head south along the coast, stopping at Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau, the Place of Refuge. This 72ha national historic park was once royal grounds and a sanctuary for ancient Hawaiian lawbreakers. Those who broke sacred laws could find redemption here, protected by the mana (spiritual power) of 23 chiefs whose bones were preserved in the Hale o Keawe temple. Today, the area remains an important part of Hawaiian culture, preserving ancient traditions and stories for future generations.

Our coastal drive continues to Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach where tall coconut palms frame the striking black sand. We’re lucky to see four Hawaiian green sea turtles resting on the shore, a testament to the island’s rich marine life.

Along the way, we stop at Punalu’u Bake Shop, the southernmost bakery in the US, to try malassadas, a Portuguese-inspired sweet bread that’s become a local favourite. The warm, sugar-dusted treats are irresistible and provide a perfect road trip snack.

Volcanic landscapes

The next phase of our journey takes us to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park where we stay at the charming Kilauea Lodge in the rainforest at the foot of Mount Kīlauea. The island of Hawaii has two active volcanoes, Mauna Loa and Kīlauea, both of which are part of the national park.

Mauna Loa, the largest active volcano on the planet, makes up 51% of Hawaii island, but Kīlauea is the main attraction at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The volcano has produced steady lava flows for years, drawing visitors from all over the world. Since 2018, eruptions and lava flow have been off and on.

Our first stop is the visitor centre where we learn Kīlauea and Mauna Loa are sacred landscapes deeply connected to native Hawaiian culture. We hike along a paved trail to the crater, watching in awe as steam rises from vents in the earth. While we didn’t see any lava flows during our visit, the most recent summit eruption paused on January 3.

The Hilo side

Our road trip takes us on to Hilo, the island’s second-largest town. Here, we explore Liliʻuokalani Gardens, the largest ornamental Japanese garden outside Japan, where we find tranquillity among the pagodas, koi ponds and carefully manicured plants.

At Rainbow Falls, we time our visit for the morning when the sun faces the waterfall, creating magical rainbows in the mist. We take our time listening to the peaceful sound of cascading water before stopping at Big Island Candies, renowned for its chocolate-dipped shortbread and other local sweet treats.

Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast

We’ve saved one of our favourite spots on the island for the end of our trip – two days at the Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast. The resort’s 12ha of tropical gardens, waterfalls and white-sand beach provide a perfect setting for relaxation.

One highlight is an early-morning outrigger canoe trip to greet the sunrise over Maunakea. Our guide, Elisha, who grew up on the island, shares his love of Hawaii with fascinating stories. When the sun begins to rise, he blows the conch in welcome, chanting an ancient Hawaiian oli, a chant of gratitude. In the following silence, we listen to the waves in a moment of deep reflection.

Our last day is spent enjoying the resort’s amenities with its Fun & Sun Activity Pass, which gives us access to snorkelling gear, stand-up paddleboards, kayaks and boogie boards. We spend hours exploring Pauao Bay where natural sea walls protect a healthy coral reef teeming with sea turtles, puffer fish and countless other marine species.

As the sun sets on our final evening, we dine at the oceanside Brown’s Beach House restaurant, watching the sky paint itself in brilliant oranges over the Pacific. Sitting under waving palm trees with the warm night air around us, it’s a perfect farewell to this remarkable island.

Checklist

The island of Hawaii

Getting there

Fly non-stop from Auckland to Honolulu with Air NZ and Hawaiian Airlines in about 8 hours 30 minutes, then connect to Kona International Airport on the island of Hawaii.

Details

gohawaii.com