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The perfect Hawaiian holiday starts with a Big Island road trip

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The perfect Hawaiian holiday starts with a Big Island road trip


Plan an epic 6-day road trip on the island of Hawaii. Photo / Getty Images

My husband and I are on a night-time manta ray snorkel experience with Anelakai Adventures, a locally owned, eco-friendly outfitter. Anelakai takes a different approach to ocean excursions. Instead of using a motorboat, six guests and two guides paddle out to sea in a double-hulled canoe.

At a spot just offshore, those who want to snorkel get in the water. Special lights between the hulls draw the plankton, which draws the manta rays. Great care is taken not to disturb the animals. We simply float and watch their dance below.

Planning the journey

Our night-time snorkel sets the tone for our six-day road trip on Hawaii island, also known as the Big Island. You can drive around Hawaii’s largest island in just eight hours, but why rush? We plan to take our time exploring Hawaii island’s different regions.

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The island’s five volcanoes – Kīlauea, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, Hualālai and Kohala – create distinct climate zones ranging from wet tropical to hot desert to polar tundra. The youngest in the island chain, the island of Hawaii’s volcanic roots are easily seen in vast lava flows.

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Mauna Loa, the world’s largest active volcano, makes up over half the Big Island. Photo / 123rf
Mauna Loa, the world’s largest active volcano, makes up over half the Big Island. Photo / 123rf

Exploring Kailua-Kona

We begin our journey in Kailua-Kona, a seaside town 15 minutes south of the airport. Once a sleepy fishing village, it’s now a vibrant hub of resorts, shopping and dining. Our rental condo serves as a perfect base for exploring the area.

We enjoy local cuisine at Huggo’s on the Rocks and Foster’s Kitchen, each offering its take on fresh island ingredients. One afternoon we stop at Kona Brewing Company, Hawaii’s largest craft brewery. Their beer is well known in the US and we sample several craft brews, including a few with tropical twists.

Unwind at Kona Brewing. Photo / Janna Graber
Unwind at Kona Brewing. Photo / Janna Graber

Historical heritage

Nearby, we visit King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Resort on the historical grounds of Kamakahonu Bay. A tour with the resort’s cultural guide, Kalei, reveals the rich history of the area, including Ahu’ena Heiau, a temple of peace and prosperity built by King Kamehameha I in the early 1800s to honour Lono, the god of fertility.

The resort houses an impressive collection of Hawaiian art and historical artifacts that bring the island’s past to life. Through Kalei’s stories, we gain deeper insight into Hawaiian culture, history and values.

Underwater wonders

For me, Hawaii means time at the beach. The waters around the island of Hawaii offer some of the best snorkelling in the Hawaiian chain. At Kahalu’u Beach Park, protected reefs create calm waters teeming with marine life.

While snorkelling, I see spotted boxfish with their endearing doe-like eyes, comical blue spine unicornfish, and schools of brilliant-yellow tang darting through the clear water. The protected bay provides safe waters for both novice and experienced snorkellers, making it an ideal spot for underwater exploration.

The waters around the island of Hawaii offer some of the best snorkelling in the Hawaiian chain. Photo / Getty Images
The waters around the island of Hawaii offer some of the best snorkelling in the Hawaiian chain. Photo / Getty Images

South coast adventures

Moving on, we head south along the coast, stopping at Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau, the Place of Refuge. This 72ha national historic park was once royal grounds and a sanctuary for ancient Hawaiian lawbreakers. Those who broke sacred laws could find redemption here, protected by the mana (spiritual power) of 23 chiefs whose bones were preserved in the Hale o Keawe temple. Today, the area remains an important part of Hawaiian culture, preserving ancient traditions and stories for future generations.

Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau was once a sanctuary for ancient Hawaiian lawbreakers. Photo / Janna Graber
Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau was once a sanctuary for ancient Hawaiian lawbreakers. Photo / Janna Graber

Our coastal drive continues to Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach where tall coconut palms frame the striking black sand. We’re lucky to see four Hawaiian green sea turtles resting on the shore, a testament to the island’s rich marine life.

Along the way, we stop at Punalu’u Bake Shop, the southernmost bakery in the US, to try malassadas, a Portuguese-inspired sweet bread that’s become a local favourite. The warm, sugar-dusted treats are irresistible and provide a perfect road trip snack.

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Punalu'u Bake Shop's offerings. Photo / Janna Graber
Punalu’u Bake Shop’s offerings. Photo / Janna Graber

Volcanic landscapes

The next phase of our journey takes us to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park where we stay at the charming Kilauea Lodge in the rainforest at the foot of Mount Kīlauea. The island of Hawaii has two active volcanoes, Mauna Loa and Kīlauea, both of which are part of the national park.

Mauna Loa, the largest active volcano on the planet, makes up 51% of Hawaii island, but Kīlauea is the main attraction at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The volcano has produced steady lava flows for years, drawing visitors from all over the world. Since 2018, eruptions and lava flow have been off and on.

Kīlauea is the main attraction at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Photo / Getty Images
Kīlauea is the main attraction at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Photo / Getty Images

Our first stop is the visitor centre where we learn Kīlauea and Mauna Loa are sacred landscapes deeply connected to native Hawaiian culture. We hike along a paved trail to the crater, watching in awe as steam rises from vents in the earth. While we didn’t see any lava flows during our visit, the most recent summit eruption paused on January 3.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park features trails that pass active volcanic vents. Photo / Janna Graber
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park features trails that pass active volcanic vents. Photo / Janna Graber

The Hilo side

Our road trip takes us on to Hilo, the island’s second-largest town. Here, we explore Liliʻuokalani Gardens, the largest ornamental Japanese garden outside Japan, where we find tranquillity among the pagodas, koi ponds and carefully manicured plants.

At Rainbow Falls, we time our visit for the morning when the sun faces the waterfall, creating magical rainbows in the mist. We take our time listening to the peaceful sound of cascading water before stopping at Big Island Candies, renowned for its chocolate-dipped shortbread and other local sweet treats.

Rainbow Falls. Photo / Janna Graber
Rainbow Falls. Photo / Janna Graber

Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast

We’ve saved one of our favourite spots on the island for the end of our trip – two days at the Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast. The resort’s 12ha of tropical gardens, waterfalls and white-sand beach provide a perfect setting for relaxation.

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One highlight is an early-morning outrigger canoe trip to greet the sunrise over Maunakea. Our guide, Elisha, who grew up on the island, shares his love of Hawaii with fascinating stories. When the sun begins to rise, he blows the conch in welcome, chanting an ancient Hawaiian oli, a chant of gratitude. In the following silence, we listen to the waves in a moment of deep reflection.

Our last day is spent enjoying the resort’s amenities with its Fun & Sun Activity Pass, which gives us access to snorkelling gear, stand-up paddleboards, kayaks and boogie boards. We spend hours exploring Pauao Bay where natural sea walls protect a healthy coral reef teeming with sea turtles, puffer fish and countless other marine species.

As the sun sets on our final evening, we dine at the oceanside Brown’s Beach House restaurant, watching the sky paint itself in brilliant oranges over the Pacific. Sitting under waving palm trees with the warm night air around us, it’s a perfect farewell to this remarkable island.

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The Fairmont Orchid offers outrigger canoe sunrise trips and traditional Hawaiian chants. Photo / Janna Graber
The Fairmont Orchid offers outrigger canoe sunrise trips and traditional Hawaiian chants. Photo / Janna Graber

Checklist

The island of Hawaii

Getting there

Fly non-stop from Auckland to Honolulu with Air NZ and Hawaiian Airlines in about 8 hours 30 minutes, then connect to Kona International Airport on the island of Hawaii.

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Mind-bending mural brings greenery into the city

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Mind-bending mural brings greenery into the city


HONOLULU (HawaiiNewsNow) – A new optical illusion is taking shape in Kalihi.

Commissioned by Kamehameha Schools, the mural will feature plants and trees native to the area. The artwork aims to highlight how forestry can exist within urban areas.

Coincidentally, the new artwork sits adjacent to one of Kalihi’s most famous murals: Wave 01/101.

The artist Kai’ili Kaulukukui plays with depth and shadow, creating an optical illusion on the flat face of a building.

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“The painting style is called ” trompe-l’œil”, it means ‘trick the eye’,” says Kaulukukui. “It’s been around for 2000 years. They have images of trompe-l’œil style murals at Pompeii, so it’s a very old style.”

Kaulukukui said he’s always been intrigued by the art style, though this is his first time painting it.

“They’re both kind of environmental themed murals,” he said. “This is bringing an image of what a forest could look like in the city. That is like an homage to Pipeline and our beautiful waves that we have here.”

The 55-foot-tall mural is expected to be completed by Sunday, May 31.

After this project, Kaulukukui will start an ocean-themed mural just one street over, bringing a bit more nature into urban Honolulu.

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Copyright 2026 Hawaii News Now. All rights reserved.



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County housing official sentenced to nearly 4 years in prison – West Hawaii Today

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County housing official sentenced to nearly 4 years in prison – West Hawaii Today


A former Hawaii County housing development specialist was sentenced Thursday in federal court to 46 months in prison for taking bribes to facilitate a multimillion-dollar affordable housing credits scam.

Alan Scott Rudo, 59, who now lives in Cathedral City, Calif., was given until July 9 to surrender to the federal Bureau of Prisons when he was sentenced by U.S. District Judge Jill Otake in Honolulu.

Otake also ordered Rudo to pay $483,265 in a forfeiture judgment.

In a deal with prosecutors, Rudo pleaded guilty in August 2022 to conspiracy to commit honest services wire fraud and admitted to accepting about $1.9 million in bribes from Hilo attorneys Paul Sulla Jr. and Gary Zamber and former Big Island businessman Rajesh Budhabhatti, who now lives in Morrow Bay, Calif.

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In return, Rudo agreed to use his official position in the Office of Housing and Community Development to ensure the county approved three affordable housing agreements (AHAs) benefiting the defendants’ development companies, Luna Loa Developments LLC, West View Developments LLC and Plumeria at Waikoloa LLC.

Through those AHAs, the development companies fraudulently raked in more than $11 million worth of land and excess affordable housing credits (AHCs).

Sulla, 79, Zamber, 56, and Budhabhatti, 65, were charged with conspiracy to commit honest services wire fraud and nine counts of honest services wire fraud. Sulla was also charged with money laundering.

Rudo was the prosecution’s star witness at their trial, and on June 4, 2025, a federal jury in Honolulu convicted all three on all charges.

Zamber was sentenced on Jan. 30 to 70 months in prison. Budhabhatti was sentenced on Feb. 6 to 90 months in prison. And Sulla was sentenced on April 23 to 60 months in prison.

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Zamber’s and Sulla’s law licenses also have been suspended, prohibiting them from practicing law in Hawaii.

“This sentencing marks the closing of an unfortunate chapter and underscores the importance of strong internal controls, clear segregation of duties, and effective program oversight,” said county Housing Administrator Kehaulani Costa in a statement. “The Office of Housing and Community Development remains committed to strengthening accountability and program integrity through enhanced compliance monitoring, improved documentation practices, and continued staff professional development.

“We are proud of the work undertaken to implement stronger safeguards, increase transparency, and reinforce public trust in the delivery of affordable housing programs serving Hawaii Island communities.”

A series of articles by Hilo resident Pat Tummons in her Environment Hawaii newsletter exposed questionable dealings in OHCD that ultimately led to an FBI investigation that resulted in these convictions.

When announcing charges in July 2022, then-U.S. Attorney Clare Connors praised the reporting by Environment Hawaii that first raised red flags about Rudo’s and his co-defendants’ schemes and, she said, led a county employee to alert the FBI.

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The resultant public flap caused the County Council to order an internal audit, which in 2013 found OHCD had “inadequate internal controls” over its affordable housing credits program.

Costa said OHCD has since “strengthened internal controls, enhanced oversight and compliance monitoring, improved documentation and review procedures, expanded staff training, and implemented additional safeguards to support greater accountability, transparency, and long-term program integrity.”

Email John Burnett at john.burnett@hawaiitribune-herald.com.





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An eclectic, off-grid Hawaii haven, 3 dead men and a suspect caught on surveillance video

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An eclectic, off-grid Hawaii haven, 3 dead men and a suspect caught on surveillance video


HONOLULU (AP) — For residents of Puna, a remote and eclectic part of Hawaii’s Big Island, the killings of three men known for embracing the community’s off-grid, free-spirited lifestyle became a startling reminder of its struggles too.

Nearly 24 hours after Jacob Baker was arrested, residents were struggling to understand what happened and were eager for answers on why authorities zeroed in on the 36-year-old as their suspect in the killings of the men who were all nearing or in their 70s.

Baker remained jailed on suspicion of murder, burglary and other charges.

Court records show Baker having repeated run-ins with police for a variety of offenses. And people who live in Puna told The Associated Press that their concern about Baker in recent days accelerated, portraying him as increasingly threatening.

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Baker is accused of being involved in the deaths of three men: a 69-year-old man found partially submerged in a cement pond, a 79-year-old man who was found just a few hundred feet (meters) away, and a third man, also 69, whose body was found about 19 miles (31 kilometers) away. As of Friday, prosecutors had not yet filed charges.

Police identified the first victim as Robert Shine and the third victim as John Carse. The name of the 79-year-old man was pending positive identification but friends identified him as Chitta Morse.

Hawaii Police Chief Reed Mahuna said investigators had not found any connections among the victims, other than two of them lived near each other.

Fixtures at drum circles

Friends of Shine and Morse say the men moved to Puna for its off-grid, tropical and communal lifestyle.

Shine enjoyed dancing and swaying to the beat at drum circles, usually on Sunday afternoons, said Donald Hyatt, a drummer.

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Hyatt last saw Shine at a party last month. A local rock-and-roll band was playing and Shine was dancing around.

“He was dancing like he loved life,” Hyatt recalled. “Bob had a permanent smile. Always in good spirits.”

Morse moved from Van Nuys, California 40 years ago “to live off-grid and to live in a warm tropical place, and to eat fruit,” said friend Jezuz Cinderland. “For 40 years he only ate raw food. Since he got to the island he just went completely raw and this was just the right environment for him to do it.”

On land rich with volcanic soil on Papaya Farms Road, Morse had what Cinderland called a “fruit forest,” growing things like coconut, avocado and durian.

“He would just share all the fruit he had,” Cinderland said. “The most fabulous abundance that you can imagine.”

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While Morse had previously been a member of the raw-food commune Cinderland moved to Puna to join, in recent years Morse was a loner, Cinderland said.

Shine was a member of Cinderland’s commune, which has been shuttered by the county for various code violations, Cinderland said.

Work-trade life

Janelle Honer, who also grew fruit on Papaya Farms Road, seems to be what connected Baker to the men, who often attended pot luck dinners and parties on Honer’s property.

Baker had been living on Honer’s property in exchange for climbing and trimming coconut trees, her ex-husband, Stephen Shaffer said. Trading work for living accommodations is common in Puna.

Hyatt said Baker left the cabin he was living in on Honer’s property months ago but returned recently claiming “squatter’s rights” and threatened Honer. Hyatt said he urged her to seek a restraining order.

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The slayings happened just days after two women requested temporary restraining orders against Baker, saying he had threatened and harassed them at a farm. One woman was staying there and the other co-owned it. A judge denied both applications, saying there was not enough proof of harassment.

No attorney was listed for Baker, who had 20 other cases in the court record in the past two decades, many of them traffic infractions. In most of those cases, Baker represented himself.

Honer, who Shaffer said was traveling out of the country, couldn’t be reached for comment.

A memorial for the men was planned for Saturday next to Honer’s place.

Puna is one of the few places in Hawaii where there’s affordable land, and the area’s infrastructure hasn’t kept up with its growth, said Ashley Kierkiewicz, who represents Puna on the county council.

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While Puna has a reputation as a quirky frontier, it’s also a place rich in culture where people are resilient and lean on each other, she said.

Puna, with its landscape that’s a mix of lush jungle and barren lava-rock fields, also struggles with drugs, poverty and limited resources, said longtime resident Tiffany Edwards Hunt.

“People have this mistaken impression that they can come to Hawaii and heal,” she said. “Hawaii can either really be kind to you or it can chew you up and spit you out.”

Surveillance cameras aid capture

Mark Wyatt and Richard Valdez played a key role in Baker’s capture, calling the police when their surveillance camera system pinged Valdez’s phone and it showed Baker on their property on Thursday. Their property is about a half-mile from Carse’s home, but they didn’t know him well.

The videos show Baker, shirtless and barefoot, with a dog walking near a road and getting down on the ground as cars went by, in an apparent attempt to avoid being seen.

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“He was ducking from the traffic, so it was pretty obvious” that he was trying to avoid being found, Valdez said.

Authorities arrested Baker a short distance away after finding him in a small cave, police said.

Wyatt said he believed Baker had been hiding near his property in a small, makeshift camping spot over a bluff overlooking the ocean. He said Baker stole couch cushions from a container outside his home and some charcoal, and Baker used coconut tree palm fronds to cover the site.

Valdez said he hadn’t seen Baker in about two years. Back then, he said, Baker was living next door to them, renting space from their neighbor while trimming coconuts from trees and selling them just off the area’s main road. He lived next door for about six months, Valdez said.

“He told me he was from Maui and that he had just had a newborn baby and his girlfriend had left and that he was trying to get his life together,” Valdez said. “So he seemed pretty normal and conscientious, so it’s hard to fathom that this happened.”

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___

Collins reported from Hartford, Connecticut.





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