APARRI, PHILIPPINES >> Last week the annual Exercise Balikatan — Tagalog for “shoulder to shoulder” — officially wrapped up in the Philippines.

The 40th iteration of the military exercise brought in service members from the U.S. as well as troops from Australia, Japan, the United Kingdom, France and Canada. Among them were troops from Hawaii-based units.

“Brings back memories,” said Cpl. Justin Caluya, a member of the Kaneohe-based 3rd Marine Littoral Regiment who was born in the Philippine province of Ilocos Norte. Caluya was one of several Filipino Americans participating in the exercise who did double duty working as an impromptu interpreter helping bridge linguistic and cultural gaps.

“I’ve been here seven times, so I have a little bit of knowledge of the area, and it’s always great to keep coming back and be able to train with everyone,” said Marine Corps Staff Sgt. Mark Zyble. “It’s always good to be able to integrate with other cultures — that’s part of the reason of why I joined — and being able to work with partner forces and understand how other militaries are involved is just something that not many people might get to do.”

Zyble said he feels a special connection to the Philippines. Back in Hawaii he lives in Ewa Beach with his wife in a home close to his Filipino in-laws, including his wife’s grandmother from Ilocos Norte.

He originally joined the Corps as a combat engineer but is now a member of the 3rd MLR’s Civil Affairs team, which is tasked with outreach to civilian government agencies and community groups to gain their trust. Zyble said that in meetings with municipal and provincial leaders, “what we’re trying to do is just give us that placement and access so that we have good relations with those in the civil environment.”

The 3rd MLR and members of the Army’s Schofield Barracks-­based 25th Infantry Division participated in Balikatan along with several other U.S. military units based in Japan and the West Coast. The exercise has grown much larger in recent years, especially as the Philippine military has shifted its focus from “internal defense” — fighting rebels and insurgent groups — to “external defense” operations focused on protecting its coastlines and island territories.

“This is a grand departure from the Balikatan exercises that I was first involved with, beginning in 2017,” said Philippine army Brig. Gen. Michael Logico. “Back then we were doing small-unit operations purely at the tactical level … but now we have elevated it to the joint and combined level so where what you’re looking at is integration of not only infantry, but also combined arms operations.”

This year, that included everything from artillery, warships, aircraft, drone and missiles. U.S. troops trained around the country, using several new weapons for the first time in several locations. Participants in the exercise held live-fire training on the island of Palawan and the western coastal province of Zambales looking out into the South China Sea and on the northern coast of Cagayan province near the town of Aparri looking north toward Taiwan.

International military observers

In addition to those who came to train, the exercise brought international military observers to watch from Brunei, the Czech Republic, Germany, India, Indonesia, Lithuania, Malaysia, the Netherlands, New Zealand, South Korea, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam.

As forces participating in Balikatan trained, the Chinese military also trained nearby, including sending its aircraft carrier Shandong into waters claimed by the Philippines and carrying out flight deck operations about 123 nautical miles off the coast of Ilocos Norte on April 25. The next week, the Chinese military began a new naval patrol in the South China Sea and released a statement asserting that “the Philippines has been frequently carrying out maritime infringement provocations, creating disturbances and pulling in countries from outside the region.”

Back in Hawaii, top military brass and diplomats watched the Philippines from afar and took notes. At the same time, groups in Hawaii opposed to the exercise also watched closely and held their own events. On May 4 the Hawai‘i Committee for Human Rights in the Philippines and Anakbayan Hawai‘i, a Filipino youth and student group, held a webinar condemning U.S. involvement in the Philippines.

Anakbayan Hawai‘i said in a statement that it “strongly condemns the increasing presence of the United States military in the Philippines. This not only includes the increasing size of the Balikatan exercises, but also the addition and regularization of other military trainings between the U.S. and the Armed Forces of the Philippines that put the Filipino people at risk.”

Richard Rothschiller of the HiCHRP told the Honolulu Star-Advertiser in a statement that the group “is alarmed by the accelerating increase in the size of exercise Balikatan and other military engagements, including the use of Philippine military bases by the U.S. and more frequent port calls by the U.S. and other foreign navies in Subic Bay.”

Rothschiller asserted that “the U.S. seeks to make the Philippines a co-combatant by goading it to confront China. This year’s annual joint U.S.- Philippines Balikatan exercises expanded even farther toward Taiwan than in previous years.”

The exercise comes not long after the return of President Donald Trump to the White House after he won the 2024 election and a Pacific tour in March by his new Defense Secretary Pete Hegseth that included stops in Hawaii, Guam, Japan and the Philippines.

The Trump administration has expressed skepticism of alliances and openly embraced a more transactional approach to foreign policy. But Hegseth pledged during his stop in the Philippines — with which the U.S. has a mutual defense treaty — that alliance would stay strong. Filipinos went to the polls this week in their own midterm election.

A senior Philippine marine officer told the Star-Advertiser that “we need to further improve ourselves, because the security environment is continuously evolving, and we need to also nurture our relationship since we are both democratic countries. … Democratic countries change their leadership, so we need to always reinforce our relationship. Policy changes as leadership changes.”

South China Sea tensions

The South China Sea — a busy waterway that nearly one-third of all global trade travels through — has become increasingly militarized over the past decade. Beijing claims nearly the entire sea as its exclusive territory over the objections of neighboring countries, and tensions have been mounting over territorial and navigation rights.

In 2016 an international court ruled in favor of the Philippines and found that China’s claims have “no legal” basis. Beijing rejected the ruling and has doubled down by building bases on disputed islands and reefs. The Chinese military has also harassed and sometimes attacked fishermen and other marine workers from neighboring countries — especially the Philippines.

Tensions have also ramped up as China has also stepped up military operations around Taiwan, a self-ruled island democracy that Beijing regards as a rogue province. Chinese leader Xi Jinping has vowed to bring Taiwan under Beijing’s control, by force if necessary. On April 1 the Philippine military’s top commander, Gen. Romeo Brawner, courted controversy when he told troops in the northern tip of the country to “start planning for actions in case there is an invasion of Taiwan.”

Brawner, an alumnus of the Daniel K. Inouye Asia-­Pacific Center for Security Studies in Waikiki, asserted in his remarks to his troops that “if something happens to Taiwan, inevitably we will be involved. There are 250,000 (overseas Filipino workers) working in Taiwan, and we will have to rescue them. And it will be the task of Northern Luzon Command to be at the front line of that operation.”

This year the Luzon Strait was a major focus of exercise Balikatan. U.S. and Philippine troops trained in the northernmost province of Batanes — a small island chain just south of Taiwan — and the 3rd MLR brought its brand-new NMESIS anti- ship missile system. Col. John Lehane, the 3rd MLR’s commander, said that it’s a key strategic area, noting that “the Bashi Channel, the Luzon Strait runs through there, so all the world’s key waterways kind of cut through.”

It’s not the first time Balikatan has brought U.S. troops to Batanes; they’ve come at least three times prior. In 2024, German Caccam, mayor of the provincial capital, Basco, told Radio Free Asia that many residents welcome Exercise Balikatan “because it makes us feel more secure,” but also told the outlet, “However, as the mayor of Basco, I am not so amenable with the presence of foreign forces, especially the U.S., because that will make us a target.”

‘Untraditional training areas’

A senior Philippine marine officer told the Star-Advertiser that during this year’s Balikatan “we were able to execute our counterlanding and live-fire exercises in areas which I think would be the most probable areas that this kind of conflict might arise.”

Logico said that this year there was a shift toward “untraditional training areas,” taking troops from the bases and training ranges they’re used to. He said, “We have learned from these traditional training locations. So now for us to take a step further, we have to look for areas that we are unaccustomed to, and these are one of the areas we have to make us get used to training in these locations.”

This year also included use of moving targets as troops shot drones out of the sky and pounded floating targets in the ocean with airstrikes and artillery. Logico said, “That is something that we have never used before, so that adds a element of realism. We are not shooting at the stationary targets.”

But for some Filipinos it was nerve-wracking. When the Star-Advertiser joined a group of Philippine troops for lunch at a restaurant in Aparri during the exercise, the owner nervously asked them if they were there because a war was about to break out. They assured him it was an annual exercise and that it was nothing to worry about.

Col. Xerxes Trinidad, spokesman for the Philippine military, told the Star-Advertiser that this year various groups spread rumors about the exercise to stoke fears, and insisted that the Philippine military had been working to keep local governments and organizations informed of the exercise and where training was taking place.

Sgt. Jon Rafus, an infantryman with the 3rd MLR who took part in the live-fire exercise in Aparri, said, “If we have to go forward into into the next fight up north, on the the island chain, I think it’s absolutely critical that we are here doing this (training) with the (Philippine marines), with the Philippine air force, with the Philippine army, working in tandem. Because we all have the same goals in mind, right? Keeping all this land over here free and making sure certain people aren’t encroaching where they don’t need to be.”

One longtime visitor and commenter who’s been coming to Hawaii for years just announced he won’t be returning—and his candid comment has stirred deeper reflection among travelers. It appeared in response to our recent coverage of Jetstar’s decision to end flights between Australia and Hawaii, but it quickly widened the conversation. His frustration is one we’ve heard often: prices are climbing, infrastructure is aging, and for some, the experience no longer lives up to the cost.

During the same week, we also heard from a new visitor about Hawaii’s profound impact on him and how much he misses it. The experience touched something spiritual for him and went beyond costs and infrastructure. Here’s what Scott wrote:

“I got back from Kauai a week ago and still can’t shake the feeling. I’ve traveled a lot, but I’ve never missed a place like this. Maybe it was the island, or maybe it was what it stood for—slowness, nature, community, honest food, even the roosters. Whatever it was, it got into us. Something feels different now, like our whole outlook shifted after being there.”

And here is the comment from longtime reader Barry that started this discussion:

“Hawaii, unfortunately, has become unaffordable in all aspects,” wrote Barry. “The government as well as the hotels have been sucking in money for years like an uncontrolled vacuum cleaner. The beaches, the roads, the sidewalks, the washrooms, and all the general amenities like water fountains and rinse-off stations require repair or need new ones… We have been coming to Hawaii for many years…but this will no longer be the case. It’s so hard to believe that Hawaii has become an unappealing destination.”

Hawaii changes you—and not always in the same way.

Barry didn’t single out a one-off complaint. Instead, he captured a broader shift many travelers have quietly noticed over the years. While sometimes updated on the surface with refreshed lobbies and branding, hotel rooms often haven’t seen meaningful interior renovations in decades.

One repeat visitor who stays in Waikiki annually told us they were shocked by their most recent room, citing peeling ceilings, rusted fixtures, and stained upholstery. “For the rate we paid,” they said, “we expected better.” We encountered the same thing when we stayed and reviewed the Hilton Hawaiian Village.

Others have noted that while nightly rates have soared, the overall guest experience hasn’t kept pace. Resort and amenity fees now routinely add $45 to $60 per night, even as guests encounter broken rinse stations, inoperable beach showers, and sidewalks needing repair. Some of the most expensive properties—charging over $700 a night—are still criticized for dated interiors and service that fall short of the luxury promise.

Yet, during the same week Barry shared his comment, we heard from a first-time visitor who described a profoundly different experience. For Scott, the trip wasn’t about hotel polish or pricing but something more profound. It’s a reminder that for some, even a short stay in Hawaii leaves an emotional imprint with little to do with amenities or infrastructure.

Resort fees—and what really matters to Hawaii visitors.

The most common complaints we hear are mandatory “resort fees,” which now add $45 to $60 per night at many properties. These charges often cover beach towels, Wi-Fi, or in-room coffee—items that travelers once expected to be included in the base rate. These fees feel like a bait-and-switch for some, especially those staying in older or poorly maintained rooms.

One reader put it bluntly: “Enough with the fees. If you want to charge $600, then charge $600. But don’t pretend it’s $475 and then tack on fees like it’s a used car dealership.”

Others say they wouldn’t mind paying more—if the quality and upkeep matched the price. When rooms feel tired or amenities don’t work, those added fees quickly become a flashpoint.

Still, not every visitor is focused on the financial side. Scott, the first-time traveler to Kauai, did not mention what he paid. For him, the value of Hawaii wasn’t defined by line items—it was in how the experience made him feel. That contrast makes this conversation so complex: the costs have become a dealbreaker for some. For others, the island connection overrides the price tag.

Hawaii’s public spaces leave mixed impressions.

Beyond hotel walls, visitors increasingly consider the condition of Hawaii’s public infrastructure a deciding factor in whether they’ll return. Barry specifically mentioned sidewalks, beach showers, water fountains, and especially public restrooms—everyday necessities that can either elevate or diminish the travel experience. It’s hard not to feel let down when these are broken, closed, or neglected.

Beach parks may be the biggest source of frustration. We’ve seen firsthand how overuse and deferred maintenance have taken a toll, especially in high-traffic areas. Restrooms are often out of service, rinse stations don’t work, and what once felt welcoming now feels worn. For longtime travelers, the contrast from earlier visits—when facilities were basic but reliably clean—is jarring.

As one reader put it, “Crumbling and neglected infrastructure, along with substandard public services, is unacceptable for one of the most beautiful places on earth.” Another commented, “In all my travels, Hawaii gets the award for neglected restroom facilities.” And a third offered: “We need money spent on Hawaii attractions which are long neglected.”

At the same time, visitors like Scott barely mention infrastructure at all. For them, the magic of Hawaii lies elsewhere—in the natural beauty, the pace, the feeling the islands evoke. That doesn’t make the frustration any less real, but it does show that what matters most depends on what a traveler came looking for in the first place.

The big emotional cost of walking away from Hawaii.

What makes Barry’s comment especially striking is how long he remained loyal to Hawaii before reaching his breaking point. He’s not alone. Other travelers have quietly told us they’ve stopped recommending Hawaii to friends or are now exploring alternatives. However, some admit that switching destinations isn’t the easy fix they hoped it might be.

In fact, based on our recent travels researching Hawaii and its alternatives, we’ve found that tourism challenges in places like Venice, Madeira, and Prague—among others—are far worse. Hawaii still has time to avoid going down that slippery road.

One couple told us they’d gone to Maui nearly every year since 1999 but are planning future trips to Portugal or the Canary Islands instead. For Canadians, many things make Hawaii feel even more out of reach. Once you factor in resort fees, parking, taxes, and restaurant prices, the actual cost of a Hawaii vacation can quickly snowball beyond what many feel comfortable spending.

Even among those still coming, we’ve noticed a shift in tone. Several readers said they continue to return, but with managed expectations, acknowledging that while the beauty remains, the overall experience no longer quite matches what it once was. It’s not always an angry goodbye. For many, it’s a quiet, reluctant one—made harder by how much they still love the place.

What happens when loyalty fades?

The visitor numbers may still look strong, but a shift in sentiment like this is difficult to quantify—and even harder to reverse. Travelers like Barry often return for decades, bringing friends, family, and thousands of dollars in spending each time. When they quietly walk away, they leave more than just a vacancy. They influence how others see Hawaii, and sometimes, whether they come at all.

This isn’t unique to Hawaii. Around the world, once-beloved destinations are grappling with the effects of too much tourism, insufficient reinvestment, and a feeling of being squeezed out or unappreciated by both travelers and residents.

It’s a pattern we’ve seen firsthand—and one we’ll continue tracking as we explore places like the Cook Islands, Fiji, and French Polynesia. Hawaii isn’t there yet, but the warning signs are familiar, and the opportunity to choose a different path is still very much alive.

But the pull of Hawaii is still real.

Even as frustrations rise, many travelers continue to describe something lasting and powerful about their time in Hawaii. Some say they leave feeling changed—more grounded, present, and connected to nature and people. Others tell us they miss the islands the moment they land back home. That’s why the disappointment stings so deeply: because the love for Hawaii runs deep.

There’s also something fitting—if bittersweet—about the word Aloha, which means both hello and goodbye. For many, the parting feeling isn’t anger. It’s grief. And the hope remains that one day, the goodbye might turn into a welcome again.

Still worth it—for now?

Not everyone is saying goodbye. Some readers remain committed to returning, even as they acknowledge the cracks. One visitor told us, “Hawaii has its issues, yes. But we keep coming back because no place else makes us feel the way Kauai does. I just wish it didn’t feel like we were being punished for it.”

Another wrote, “We’re holding out hope that things will improve, but it’s getting harder to justify it to friends when they ask where to go for vacation.” These aren’t just passing complaints. They’re thoughtful reflections from travelers who have loved Hawaii for decades—and whose continued loyalty shouldn’t be taken for granted.

Can Hawaii win you back?

Hawaii still offers natural beauty and cultural richness that few places can match. But the visitor experience doesn’t depend solely on scenery. It depends on value, trust, and the feeling that a vacation here will be memorable—for the right reasons, not just costly ones.

There’s still time to address the concerns travelers are raising. Hotels can reinvest in their rooms and service. Amenities and other fees can be made transparent or eliminated. Public infrastructure can be restored and maintained in ways that benefit everyone. Hawaii’s welcome can be better rooted in mutual respect, not simply fatigue or frustration.

Have you reached a breaking point—or are you still holding out hope? The fact that so many travelers still feel this deeply, even when stepping away, says a lot about Hawaii and its visitors. With Aloha meaning hello and goodbye, maybe that’s where the path back begins.

HONOLULU (HawaiiNewsNow) – Honolulu police and military personnel briefly closed the Maunalua Bay parking lot and surrounding roads to defuse projectile devices Wednesday afternoon.

Police said two possibly live M49A2 mortar bombs were turned in to the Hawaii Kai police substation by a member of the public at around 1 p.m.

The Honolulu Police Department‘s Specialized Services Division, in coordination with the Army’s Explosive Ordnance Disposal team, transported the devices to the Maunalua Bay parking lot for defusing.

Officers evacuated and closed nearby roads, including Kalanianaole Highway and Keahole Street, until the area was safe.

There were no injuries.

The all-clear was given and roads were reopened by 2:10 p.m.

HPD says if you find similar devices, do not move them and call 911 immediately.

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