The primary time I landed on the Hawaiian island of Kaua’i, I felt one thing new. The island is awash in breath-snatching magnificence, from seashores, mountains, valleys, and the scenic Waimea Canyon, however what struck me was how the air was charged with a sense of one thing like reverence, a visceral feeling of cultural delight and respect for custom that was even stronger right here than on another Hawaiian island. Because the oldest of the islands, Kaua’i cradles the historic legacy of Hawaiian historical past and custom. This island isn’t about vacationer traps; it’s suffused with heritage, a lot of which is edible.

Hawaiian historical past and heritage on show

My first cease was Po’ipu Seashore, the place monk seals lolled within the solar. These endangered animals predate people within the space and their presence is mirrored in conventional oral histories and drawings. A five-minute drive away, I noticed water spouting 50 toes within the air with a hissing noise and crashing into waves. It was unnerving to observe, however the Spouting Horn blowhole is without doubt one of the most photographed spots on Kaua’i.

The legend goes a large mo’o (lizard) as soon as guarded the shoreline and he ate individuals who swam or fished there. Someday a person named Liko swam there, and when the lizard tried to assault him he swam below the lava shelf and escaped by the blow gap. The lizard received caught within the blowhole; the sounds we hear right this moment are his roars of ache. Scientifically, the noise is defined by pressurized air forcing its manner by cracks within the rock, however the drama of the capturing water and groaning blast makes the apocryphal story all of the extra credible.

As I walked Kaua’i’s windswept shoreline, I heard a mele (chant) echo over a seaside. Elders had been chanting the names of their household line throughout generations in a standard ancestral ritual whose lilting sound paired with the waves. Quickly after, similar rhythms accompanied a hula kahiko efficiency, the traditional type of hula dance that developed earlier than Western contact. It differs from the modern hula auana, which most guests acknowledge for its undulating hips and expressive arms. The okahiko kind options inflexible arms and solely conventional percussion and chanting for accompaniment, and the dancers’ footwork instructed a narrative in regards to the inexperienced hills of Waimea.

Later that evening, I relaxed to the advanced melodies of Hawaiian slack key guitar, listening to the basic “Ku’u Dwelling O Kahalu’u” at Duke’s Seashore Bar. It sounded just like the chords had been meant to be mixed with the sound of the water.

Tasting Hawaii’s wonderful Puka Canine

One of many first issues I realized about Kaua’i meals was {that a} true Hawaiian meal will “brook da mout,” or style actually good. As I shortly came upon, most dishes on the island match this description.

I wolfed up conventional eats like lau lau, which is fish or pork wrapped in a savory bundle of taro leaves and steamed in coconut milk, in addition to haupia, a creamy coconut pudding. However alongside these conventional dishes had been extra fashionable choices, corresponding to the delectable Puka Dog. 

This Hawaiian-style sizzling canine includes a polish sausage (or veggie canine) wrapped in a toasted Hawaiian candy bun that has a puka, or hole, punched out of the center. The opening is stuffed with a number of native fruit-forward sauces: coconut, starfruit, or banana relish, passionfruit mustard, and garlic lemon sauce. It’s as messy and chaotic because it sounds and value a airplane ticket to Kaua’i for only one candy and succulent chew. I believed the Puka Dog was my favourite Kaua’i meals, proper up till I went to a luau.

The flavors of a Hawaiian luau

Luaus determine prominently in pop cultural depictions of Hawaii, however these festive occasions had been a considerably extra formal a part of historic traditions. Luaus had been feasts held to have a good time events like launching a canoe or honoring Hawaiian items. Girls weren’t allowed to dine with males at luaus till 1819 when King Kamehameha II invited them to affix in. Meals was the principle focus then, whereas fashionable luaus mix meals and leisure.

The centerpiece is at all times the Kalua pig, a complete hog lined in ti leaves, wrapped in rooster wire, and lowered into an imu, or cooking pit, the place it’s roasted over sizzling coals for eight hours. Whereas it’s a dramatic sight, I don’t eat pork, so I figured I’d miss the centerpiece of the feast altogether—till I glimpsed the poi.

Poi is pounded taro root and appears like lavender pudding. The taro plant is so sacred to Hawaiian tradition that it’s thought of an insult to argue as soon as poi is served. Why? As a result of Hawaiian customized dictates that it’s disrespectful to argue in entrance of an elder, and because the residing embodiment of Haloa, the traditional ancestor of the Hawaiian folks, taro is technically the elder brother of all Hawaiians.

Although imbued with cultural significance, poi is certainly an acquired style. Its taste may shock guests, because of its usually bitter style and paste-like consistency. The primary few occasions I attempted it, I focused on the stunning shade of purple (my favourite) moderately than the bitter notes.

Hanalei Poi modified that. This product is made contemporary on Kaua’i and is broadly thought of the perfect poi you can eat; you may see folks rave about it on social media. I spooned it up and detected solely barely candy, easy goodness. I ate bowlfuls of poi all through my journey and regarded smuggling a bathtub in my suitcase. It’s a easy dish with none showy substances or flavors, however like Kaua’i, its magnificence is in its direct connection to nature.