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Hawaii: A Kingdom Crossing Oceans review – a feather-filled thriller full of gods, gourds and ghosts

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Hawaii: A Kingdom Crossing Oceans review – a feather-filled thriller full of gods, gourds and ghosts


Relations between Britain and the Pacific kingdom of Hawaii didn’t get off to a great start. On 14 February 1779 the global explorer James Cook was clubbed and stabbed to death at Hawaii’s Kealakekua Bay in a dispute over a boat: it was a tragedy of cultural misunderstanding that still has anthropologists arguing over its meaning. Cook had previously visited Hawaii and apparently been identified as the god Lono, but didn’t know this. Marshall Sahlins argued that Cook was killed because by coming twice he transgressed the Lono myth, while another anthropologist, Gananath Obeyesekere, attacked him for imposing colonialist assumptions of “native” irrationality on the Hawaiians.

It’s a fascinating, contentious debate. But the aftermath of Cook’s death is less well known – and the British Museum’s telling of it, in collaboration with indigenous Hawaii curators, community leaders and artists, reveals a surprisingly complex if doomed encounter between different cultures.

Cook isn’t mentioned in the wall texts or portrayed in the show, but his ghost is everywhere in the objects he and his men brought back to Britain. And what marvels they are. Before Cook’s voyages the peoples of the Pacific, connected with each other by epic canoe crossings that linked the Polynesians from Hawaii and Easter Island to Tahiti and New Zealand, created cultural forms that we now call art. Giant pink feathered faces of gods with mother-of-pearl eyes grimace and gurn while a club embedded with tiger shark teeth combines beauty and menace. Bowls carried by naked figures on their backs embody how Hawaiian chiefs and monarchs were feasted and respected.

Kiʻi (image) of the god Kū, a Hawaiian god whose realm includes warfare and governance. Photograph: © The Trustees of the British Museum

Monarchy is at the heart of this show, a common language shared by the otherwise chalk and cheese Hawaiians and Britons. After the death of Cook, which was heartily regretted on both sides, Hawaii learned, as it were, to speak British and assert its equality with a “modern” state. It worked, for a while. In 1810 King Kamehameha I sent a magnificent, feathered cloak to George III, with a yellow diamond pattern on red – on loan here from the Royal Collection which still owns it. The king apologised that he was too far away to support Britain in the Napoleonic Wars but expressed friendship – and could Britain help if Hawaii was attacked by France? The Hawaiian cloak is wittily juxtaposed here with a glittering jewelled costume worn by George IV at his coronation: idiosyncratic customs existed on both sides of the world.

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Forget Cook, the show suggests: remember King Liholiho. In 1824 he and his Queen Kamamulu set out on a journey that reversed all those British “discoveries”. They set sail for Britain laden with gifts, hitching a lift on a whaling ship (the story would be even better if they’d gone by outrigger canoe). George IV seems to have been touched by the greetings from across two oceans because he received the Hawaiians in 1824 with diplomatic honours. They were seen in the royal box at the theatre and portrayed by artists. Typically cartoonists were less generous – Cruikshank portrays the depraved George IV with his arms around a tattooed Polynesian. They also visited the British Museum where they could not have missed three of its most stunning exhibits, the feathered faces of gods brought back by Cook’s team from Hawaii which are known to have been on display at that time.

In 1810, Kamehameha I – the first king of unified Hawaii – sent this ʻahu ʻula (feathered cloak) along with a letter to George III of the United Kingdom. Photograph: © Royal Collection Enterprises Limited 2025 | Royal Collection Trust

The Hawaiian treasures retrieved from the British Museum’s stores are remarkable – they should have a permanent gallery to themselves. You can’t stereotype them: the fierce gaze of a martial-looking god with a chunky wooden body seems modernist, which is no coincidence because Pacific sculptures helped inspire modernism. I mistook one of the feathered godheads with its almost caricatural eye for a contemporary artwork. It was collected by Cook.

These wonders are not reliquaries of a dead culture. There’s a perfectly preserved 18th-century dance rattle, or ‘uli’uli, brought back from Cook’s third voyage, a gourd from which purple, red and white feathers sprout and radiate. A video shows Hawaiian dancers using a modern recreation of the same instrument. To Hawaiians the artistic masterpieces their ancestors made are bearers of memory, instruments of identity.

ʻUmeke kiʻi (bowl with figure). Photograph: © The Trustees of the British Museum

This exhibition is a celebration of Hawaii and a defence of museums with global collections. The almost miraculous preservation of delicate, fragile artworks made with feathers, teeth, wood and bark for almost 250 years is surely to the British Museum’s credit, as is this way of seeing them as embodiments of living culture.

How does the story end? The king and queen of Hawaii gave their lives for cultural diplomacy: they both died of measles in London in 1824. George IV honoured them by sending their bodies home on a Royal Navy ship. Hawaii successfully persuaded Britain and Europe it was a nation state, with a monarchical government they could do business with – so Britain kept its greedy hands off this one place. In the end it would be the US that seized Hawaii, colonised it and eventually made it the 50th state. The objects here are weapons in a continuing cultural resistance. Look out for that shark-toothed club, Mr President.

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Hawaii: A Kingdom Crossing Oceans is at the British Museum, London, 15 January to 25 May



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County approval sought for festival that has irritated neighbors – West Hawaii Today

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County approval sought for festival that has irritated neighbors – West Hawaii Today






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Tourist yells ‘I’m rich’ after beachgoers beg him to stop attacking endangered seal — before he’s detained

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Tourist yells ‘I’m rich’ after beachgoers beg him to stop attacking endangered seal — before he’s detained


A tourist who threw a huge rock at an endangered Hawaiian monk seal in Maui boasted that he didn’t care about the consequences because he’s “rich” — before he was detained over the attack.

The man was filmed lifting a large rock from a beach and throwing it towards an endangered seal as it swam off the Lahaina shoreline last Tuesday, narrowly missing the animal’s head.

Kaylee Schnitzer, who filmed the video, can be heard yelling at the man: “What are you doing? Why would you throw a rock at it?”

She later told KHON 2: “We told him that we called the cops, and he was like, ‘I don’t care. Fine me, I’m rich.’ He said that, and he kept walking.”

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The Division of Conservation and Resources Enforcement’s Maui Branch dispatched officers to the beach, where they detained the suspect. Hawaii’s Department of Land and Natural Resources said it will not be share the suspect’s identity as he has not been criminally charged at this time. He is understood to be a 37-year-old man from Seattle, Washington.

A viral video captured a tourist throwing a large rock at an endangered monk seal in Hawaii (KHON2)

Hawaiian monk seals are among the most endangered marine mammals in the world. Harassing, injuring or killing one is against both state and federal law, and violators may face fines or criminal penalties. The horrifying incident sparked online outrage and Schnitzer’s video went viral.

The seal, named “Lani,” is beloved by many residents in the area after returning to Lahaina following the 2023 wildfires. Maui Mayor Richard Bissen noted in an Instagram post that both members of his team and locals have “watched over and deeply cared for” Lani since her return.

“Let me be clear, this is not the kind of visitor we welcome on Maui,” Bissen said. “We welcome respectful visitors that understand that our cultural environment and wildlife must be treated with care and aloha. Behavior like this will not be tolerated.”

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Monk seals are one of the most endangered marine mammals in the world (Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources)

Monk seals are one of the most endangered marine mammals in the world (Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources)

State officials said the suspect was questioned by authorities and later released after he requested legal counsel.

The Department of Land and Natural Resources said it is investigating the incident and will turn over the findings to NOAA’s Office of Law Enforcement for possible federal action. The Independent has contacted the department for more information.

During a news conference on Wednesday, the Division of Conservation and Resources Enforcement Chief Jason Redulla said officials have not confirmed whether the seal was harmed by the rock.

Police reminded the public to avoid interactions with the protected species and report harmful behavior to authorities.





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Hilo tsunami clock memorial to be moved? – Hawaii Tribune-Herald

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