Hawaii
Everyone Says Oahu’s Overcrowded. We Drove 20 Minutes Past Haleiwa And Found Beautiful Empty Beaches
Most visitors think Oahu’s North Shore stops at Haleiwa because that is where traffic builds to pandemonium, where beach parking fills earlier than you can imagine, and where sitting in your car between the familiar lineup of surf breaks and food trucks largely defines the experience. Once people have crawled through and found a place to stand at Waimea or Sunset, the mental box gets checked, and the car points back toward Honolulu fast, as if everything worth seeing has already been seen. But it hasn’t.
Instead of turning around at Haleiwa, we continued west on Farrington Highway and watched the storefronts fall away in the rearview mirror. The line of rental cars thinned fast as the road narrowed and the mountains got closer to the pavement. On the ocean side, long stretches of sand opened up, and within a few miles, we were seeing more wind in the ironwood trees than cars on the road or people on the beach.
Most visitors leaving Haleiwa head east toward Sunset Beach and Pipeline, where traffic stacks up endlessly and parking lots overflow. We went the other way. Out toward Mokuleia, the commercial North Shore disappears fast, and what replaces it is space. There are no visitors circling for stalls and no steady lines at food trucks. You can pull over without searching for the one open spot in a packed lot, and entire sections of beach sit quietly without the usual cluster.
Dillingham Airfield and the working North Shore.
One of the first landmarks after Mokule’ia Beach (which we will write about soon) is what most people still call Dillingham Airfield, though its official name is Kawaihapai Airfield. It is owned by the U.S. Army and managed by the State of Hawaii Department of Transportation under a 50-year lease, and it has been operated as a military installation since the 1920s, with HDOT taking over management in 1962. HDOT leases 272 acres of the 650-acre Dillingham Military Reservation and operates the single 9,000-foot runway, with the civilian side used heavily for gliders and skydiving while the Army retains first priority for air/land operations and uses the field for helicopter night-vision training.
As we drove past, it did not feel like a visitor attraction at all, even though you can spot the roadside signs for glider rides and skydiving. A small single-engine plane rolled down the runway and lifted off against the Waianae Mountains, then a glider followed, towed upward before separating and moving almost silently above the coastline. It is one of those North Shore scenes that makes you slow down without thinking about it, because it looks like real working Oahu rather than the marketed version, with runway, mountains, and open water all in the same frame and very few people around to make it feel like a production.
Camps that have been here for generations.
Close to the airfield are two oceanfront camps that rarely enter any typical Oahu visitor’s plans. The first is Camp Mokuleia, which sits along the shoreline and is owned by the Episcopal Church. If you’re not on a retreat, you can rent a campsite or tentalo on the beach. A little farther west is YMCA Camp Erdman, which opened in 1926 and is approaching its 100th anniversary, still renting oceanfront cabins and yurts to the public.
The accommodations are straightforward, with sand steps away from the doors and long views of the horizon. This is not a resort strip, and you won’t find any valet stands or infinity pools. Families gather around grills, kids move freely between cabins and the beach, while the ocean feels part of the daily backdrop more than it is an Instagram photo opportunity.
Camp Mokuleia tentalos start at $100 a night. Camp Erdman yurts and cabins range from $250-$450 per night for up to 6 guests. For context, the average vacation rental in the Mokuleia area lists above $500 a night.
The shoreline here is not known for calm, protected swimming, and currents can be strong without lifeguard towers stationed every few hundred yards. The beach also has a lot of coral, which keeps swimmers more limited than some other beaches. And that fact alone keeps casual beach traffic lighter, and it helps explain why this stretch feels so different from busier Oahu North Shore stops. The camps and the character of the water belong to the same landscape, shaped more by geography than by commercial branding.

Where the pavement ends.
Eventually, Farrington Highway reaches a gravel lot where the pavement stops and a locked gate marks the entrance to the Mokuleia section of Kaena Point State Park. There is no visitor center funneling people through an entrance plaza. Instead, there is open sky, steady trade winds, and a handful of parked cars facing a dirt road that continues on foot toward the westernmost tip of Oahu, where you can meet the road that comes from the other side. This is truly a part of Oahu that most visitors never see.
Hikers follow the old railroad route for roughly 2.7 miles to Kaena Point itself, where seabirds nest behind protective fencing and monk seals are sometimes seen along the shore. The trail is exposed, hot, and largely flat, with no services and little shade, which naturally limits casual foot traffic. Consider not trying it in the middle of the day. But, standing at the end of the paved road, with the Waianae Mountains behind you and nothing but raw coastline ahead, feels less like arriving at any Oahu attraction and more like standing at the literal end of the island.
What stood out most was how little competition there was for space. There were only a few cars in the lot when we arrived, and long portions of the beach were untouched compared with the chaotic churn nearby at Haleiwa. It was a bit windy, the mountains anchored one side of the horizon, and the coastline extended westward without any indication that you were sharing it with scattered other people.
If you have been to the North Shore more than once and believe you have already seen it, have you ever kept driving past Haleiwa until the pavement runs out? It’s worth the drive.
Photo Credits: © Beat of Hawaii at Kaena Point State Park, Oahu.
Get Breaking Hawaii Travel News
Hawaii
County approval sought for festival that has irritated neighbors – West Hawaii Today
Hawaii
Tourist yells ‘I’m rich’ after beachgoers beg him to stop attacking endangered seal — before he’s detained
A tourist who threw a huge rock at an endangered Hawaiian monk seal in Maui boasted that he didn’t care about the consequences because he’s “rich” — before he was detained over the attack.
The man was filmed lifting a large rock from a beach and throwing it towards an endangered seal as it swam off the Lahaina shoreline last Tuesday, narrowly missing the animal’s head.
Kaylee Schnitzer, who filmed the video, can be heard yelling at the man: “What are you doing? Why would you throw a rock at it?”
She later told KHON 2: “We told him that we called the cops, and he was like, ‘I don’t care. Fine me, I’m rich.’ He said that, and he kept walking.”
The Division of Conservation and Resources Enforcement’s Maui Branch dispatched officers to the beach, where they detained the suspect. Hawaii’s Department of Land and Natural Resources said it will not be share the suspect’s identity as he has not been criminally charged at this time. He is understood to be a 37-year-old man from Seattle, Washington.
A viral video captured a tourist throwing a large rock at an endangered monk seal in Hawaii (KHON2)
Hawaiian monk seals are among the most endangered marine mammals in the world. Harassing, injuring or killing one is against both state and federal law, and violators may face fines or criminal penalties. The horrifying incident sparked online outrage and Schnitzer’s video went viral.
The seal, named “Lani,” is beloved by many residents in the area after returning to Lahaina following the 2023 wildfires. Maui Mayor Richard Bissen noted in an Instagram post that both members of his team and locals have “watched over and deeply cared for” Lani since her return.
“Let me be clear, this is not the kind of visitor we welcome on Maui,” Bissen said. “We welcome respectful visitors that understand that our cultural environment and wildlife must be treated with care and aloha. Behavior like this will not be tolerated.”
Monk seals are one of the most endangered marine mammals in the world (Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources)
State officials said the suspect was questioned by authorities and later released after he requested legal counsel.
The Department of Land and Natural Resources said it is investigating the incident and will turn over the findings to NOAA’s Office of Law Enforcement for possible federal action. The Independent has contacted the department for more information.
During a news conference on Wednesday, the Division of Conservation and Resources Enforcement Chief Jason Redulla said officials have not confirmed whether the seal was harmed by the rock.
Police reminded the public to avoid interactions with the protected species and report harmful behavior to authorities.
Hawaii
Hilo tsunami clock memorial to be moved? – Hawaii Tribune-Herald
-
Washington2 minutes ago
19-Year-Old Transgender University of Washington Student Fatally Stabbed
-
Wisconsin8 minutes agoSuspected human bones found in northern Wisconsin
-
West Virginia14 minutes agoWest Virginia delegate candidates in Wood County split on top issues, from manufacturing to health care rules
-
Wyoming20 minutes ago(LETTER) ‘Wyoming Advantage’ is disappearing for Gillette residents
-
Crypto26 minutes agoBitcoin Holds Above $81,500 as $135M in Leveraged Crypto Positions Get Liquidated
-
Finance32 minutes agoMorgan Stanley sees writing on wall for Citi before major change
-
Fitness38 minutes agoThis simple strength training trick builds more muscle and better technique—here’s how to try tempo training in your next home workout
-
Movie Reviews50 minutes ago‘Given Names’ is a Fascinating Exploration of Who We Are (Berlinale 2026 Film Review)