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Guatemala becoming tourism hot spot for young travelers

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Guatemala becoming tourism hot spot for young travelers


Adventurous travelers seeking beauty and budget thrills should look no further than Guatemala: a friendly country that remains largely unexplored by many Americans, but can be reached in as little as six hours from Denver.

A question I fielded several times before my late February trip: Why Guatemala?

My partner and I have made a habit of planning at least one international trip each year. Actually, I’ll shoulder most of the blame — nothing scratches my travel itch like a new passport stamp. But because we’re early-career professionals, with limited stockpiles of paid time off and inevitable bills, a month-long vacation to Southeast Asia or Eastern Europe is out of the question (for now).

Last summer, I found myself in a rabbit hole of research: Panama, Aruba, Curaçao. Slowly, the pieces fell together for Guatemala.

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Compared to my other potential destinations, Denver International Airport offers inexpensive connecting flights to Guatemala City that take a minimum of around six hours of travel time. I started to hear about this friend or that roommate who had visited — or even temporarily moved to — the Central American country over the past few years and couldn’t get enough of it.

Residents of Antigua, Guatemala, wake up every Sunday during Lent, and create alfombras — intricately designed “carpets” made of flower petals and sawdust dyed in every color. (Megan Ulu-Lani Boyanton/The Denver Post)

Social media platform TikTok features videos of jet-setters of every creed successfully journeying through the tourist destinations of Antigua and Lake Atitlán, offering tips on how to navigate the nation. By August, our accommodations were booked.

Both sets of our parents initially balked at the idea. My dad had previously flown to Guatemala City on business, and was confined within the limits of Central America’s largest metropolis. Like others in the baby boomer and Generation X demographics, much of what they’d grown up hearing about the country was related to its conditions during the Guatemalan Civil War, which lasted 36 years.

However, over the past decade, the nation’s tourism industry has consistently grown — minus a setback during the COVID-19 pandemic, according to data-gathering platform Statista. And I was hearing piqued interest from millennials and zoomers about making the trip south. At the Cherry Creek Shopping Center days before my trip, a clerk peppered me with questions about my itinerary as she considered doing the same.

After my editors gave me the green light to briefly chase a story on the ground, the trip became both work and play — four days off, two days on. I took the necessary precautions learned on my last reporting trip to Peru in the pre-COVID era: monitor travel advisories with the U.S. State Department, submit my itinerary to the agency’s Smart Traveler Enrollment Program and set an appointment with a travel clinic to get relevant vaccines.

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With interviews set and bags packed, we hopped on our 6 a.m. American Airlines flight, then stopped briefly at the Dallas Fort Worth International Airport, before touching down in the early afternoon at La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City. On the flight, our seat neighbor — a Guatemalan who planned to visit her family for a long weekend before heading back to the U.S. — excitedly shared her recommendations, then led us through the winding halls of the airport to customs and immigration.

Guatemala’s cash economy

After a quick and easy process, we were set to embark into a new country — and learned lessons pretty quickly. We brought cash because Guatemala is a cash-reliant economy, particularly outside of its capital city. The airport provides several opportunities to exchange dollars for quetzales, with $1 worth about 8 quetzales, as of mid-April. It’s best to fork over the added exchange fee there and avoid the inconvenience of hunting for a bank like we did later.

More than three million people reside in the city’s urban area, which is made up of 21 zones — some of which tourists are advised against visiting. We stayed one night in Zone 4, which a travel blog calls “the upcoming hipster area.” Zones 9 and 10 come highly recommended, too. We felt safe and relaxed in the neighborhood around our Airbnb — a unit in a modern apartment complex, with its own private patio.

Our plans for that first day were ambitious: see the National Palace of Culture, stop by the city’s market and eat dinner at steakhouse Hacienda Real Zona 10. Instead, we took in the sunset views on the rooftop of restaurant Los Tres Tiempos in the city’s historical district, cocktails and croquetas de pache — mozzarella croquettes made of Guatemalan potato dough — in hand, before turning in. But if you’re short on time or not a big city person, then you can skip visiting the capital like most tourists do.

Disclaimer: I’m not sure what it would be like to travel through Guatemala without a Spanish speaker by my side. Spanish and even some Mayan dialects take precedence over English throughout the country. Because that’s my partner’s first language, I didn’t have to put my rudimentary skills to the test. However, I encountered plenty of Europeans and North Americans who managed to make it from Point A to Point B.

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A scene from the tourist area of Central Park in Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala, on Monday, Feb. 26, 2024. Many indigenous local people work in the informal economy because the lack of employment opportunities. (Photo by Morena Perez Joachin/Special to The Denver Post)
A scene from the tourist area of Central Park in Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala, on Monday, Feb. 26, 2024. Many indigenous local people work in the informal economy because of the lack of employment opportunities. (Morena Perez Joachin/Special to The Denver Post)

Antigua

The next morning started with the one-hour drive west to the colonial city of Antigua. Visitors have several options for transportation. Uber is available, and we used it for a short ride in Guatemala City, but I’d read enough mixed reviews for me to largely opt against it. The bravest — and stingiest — of travelers sometimes ride the chicken buses: decorated buses that serve as public transportation. However, I’d also seen a litany of online grievances, as the buses can often run unreliably and feel crowded, with the risk of pickpockets.

Instead, we used private cars and shared shuttle services to travel from town to town, which are affordable by American standards. Viator Travel served as a trusty resource for finding highly-reviewed drivers, who often arrived early and provided a smooth ride.

Our two nights in Antigua left us wishing for more time. There, activities abound — sightseeing at the famous Santa Catalina Arch and Central Park, bartering at the massive Mercado Central and eating so many piping-hot tortillas. My go-to breakfast for days in a row: plantains, refried beans, farmer’s cheese and eggs soaked in salsa, scooped into tortillas and washed down with that famous Guatemalan coffee.

Explore the sprawling Mercado Central in Antigua, Guatemala, which has indoor and outdoor sections. (Photo by Megan Ulu-Lani Boyanton/The Denver Post)
Explore the sprawling Mercado Central in Antigua, Guatemala, which has indoor and outdoor sections. (Megan Ulu-Lani Boyanton/The Denver Post)

Antigua is the place to buy souvenirs. I scored a Mayan cookbook, plus trinkets for my family like handmade worry dolls: tiny dolls that you tuck under your pillow to whisk away your stresses as you dream. It’s also the spot for nightlife, with several dozen bars and restaurants concentrated in a walkable area that’s both spotless and safe.

Speaking of walking, follow our lead and bring a duffle or weekend bag, instead of a suitcase. Otherwise, navigating the cobblestone roads can quickly turn into the bane of your existence. And wear comfortable sneakers. We walked almost 9 miles one day, but that’s the best way to find hole-in-the-wall joints like restaurant Cafeteria La Concepcion, which is where I tried the traditional dish of pepián de pollo, a Guatemalan chicken stew.

Depending on the timing of your trip, you could also experience a local festival. I was delighted to realize that we visited ahead of Semana Santa, or Holy Week, with Guatemala considered a deeply Christian country. Street vendors sell cheap delicacies, such as empanadas de leche, or sweet cream empanadas. Antigua residents wake up every Sunday during Lent and create alfombras — intricately designed “carpets” made of flower petals and sawdust dyed in every color — on the streets before the evening’s religious procession. Then, just hours later, the temporary creations are stepped on and swept up.

From Antigua, you can admire the surrounding peaks of towering volcanoes, and tour operators like OX Expeditions take hikers on excursions to Pacaya, Acatenango and Agua volcanoes. We signed up for an easy sunset hike up to Pacaya and its lava fields. The other two are known as longer, more intense endeavors. I would strongly advise any hiking hopefuls to cough up the money and join a group because robberies of solo tourists are common along the trails.

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Lake Atitlán

My first work day was spent reporting in Jocotenango, a town on the outskirts of Antigua, with the team at the nonprofit Education for the Children Foundation. They run the School of Hope, a free private school for disadvantaged students. I chatted with pupils and teachers during the school day. Then, U.S. executive director Sara Miller drove me around town and up to La Vista Hermosa, a shantytown of homes built illegally on the hillside where about 150 of the school’s families reside.

As a journalist, I’m grateful to have spent those hours getting the perspective that tourists often don’t see, but, for that reason, I won’t highlight Jocotenango as a place that visitors need on their itineraries. Then, we hopped in a shared shuttle — a small van that fits 10 passengers — for the three-hour ride to Lake Atitlán. If you get car sick, then it is absolutely necessary to bring non-drowsy motion sickness medicine to survive the winding roads.

Lake Atitlán is often referred to as “the Lake Como of Latin America,” referencing the Italian lake in the Alps’ foothills. It’s also held sacred by the nation’s Mayan population — Guatemala’s largest Indigenous group. Outside of Guatemala City, Native people in their traditional garb are a common sight. A Mayan woman typically wears a corte (skirt), huipil (blouse) and faja (belt), and you come across shops selling the clothing in different colors and patterns.

Admire the street art installations in San Juan La Laguna at Lake Atitlan. (Photo by Megan Ulu-Lani Boyanton/The Denver Post)
Admire the street art installations in San Juan La Laguna at Lake Atitlán. (Megan Ulu-Lani Boyanton/The Denver Post)

Upon arriving at the lake, you’re typically dropped off in Panajachel — one of almost a dozen towns and villages sitting on the water’s edge. There, I spent my final day of reporting at the headquarters of nonprofit Friendship Bridge, which works with Indigenous women entrepreneurs to provide loans, business training and more.

Nicknamed Pana, the town is accessible by car, but several of the most popular destinations can only be reached by boat. Before departing Pana for other lakeside locations, stock up on sunscreen, beer or any other desirable products because the small stores in the remote villages offer limited stock.

Public and private lanchas, or boats, float at the main dock to ferry locals and tourists across the lake. Beeline for the cheap public option, which costs 10 to 25 quetzales, or you could be swindled by a private captain into paying hundreds of quetzales for your own boat. It’s a longer wait as the water taxi loads up on passengers, but it’s worthwhile for your wallet.

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The lake is a place to relax, swim and hop from village to village, which is exactly what my partner and I did on our last day of vacation. Boats are ever reliable on the lake, and you can flag one down at the nearest dock. But I wanted to try out a tuk-tuk — a doorless, three-wheeled vehicle, manned by a driver, who can transport you between towns. I highly recommend the very Guatemalan experience.

Our favorite village: San Juan La Laguna, which bursts with art, restaurants and merchants. Our least favorite: San Marcos La Laguna — a hippie haven, known for its yoga retreats and meditation centers. However, it felt very gentrified to me.

We didn’t get the chance to visit Santa Catarina Palopó, where the houses are painted in eye-popping colors. Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve has a prime spot for cliff jumping into the lake, which I’d add to my list when we return.

And that’s “when,” not “if,” because I’d happily fly back to Guatemala for a much longer trip in the future. Not only did I feel welcome and safe during my travels, but I also experienced an adventure that I won’t soon forget.

IF YOU GO

Where to eat:

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Los Tres Tiempos, 6ta. Avenida “A” 10-13 Zona 01, Azotea Del Edificio Centro Vivo, Cuidad de Guatemala: A chic rooftop restaurant, this is the ideal spot to watch the sun set in Guatemala City’s historical district. Enjoy 360-degree views of the Central American metropolis on the outdoor patio.

Cafeteria La Concepcion, H75F+5C4, Antigua: This unpretentious, hole-in-the-wall restaurant offers a limited menu for low prices, with top-tier Guatemalan food like pepián de pollo.

Restaurante 7 Caldos, 3a Calle Oriente 24, Antigua: Enter through the cobblestone street into an open-air restaurant where you can watch as your tortillas are made fresh. The expansive menu, which includes cocktails, is sure to satisfy most cravings.

Café 22, 6a Calle Poniente 8, Antigua: This small café feels like your own private courtyard. Stop by for a cup of Guatemalan espresso and lunch.

Casa Troccoli, H758+773, 5a Avenida Norte, Antigua: With its romantic architecture and expansive garden, date night should go smoothly at Casa Troccoli. Its red sangria is a great way to cool off, so check it out for a quick drink or a meal.

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Denver weather: Snow tails off Friday, but morning commute could be slick

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Denver weather: Snow tails off Friday, but morning commute could be slick


The waves of snow that fell across Denver Thursday were expected to diminish Friday morning, but the roads could be slick for commuters, a weather forecaster said. The National Weather Service in Boulder said to expect a 40% chance of snow across Denver on Friday with a high temperature reaching about 34 degrees. That’s about […]



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Denver Broncos’ stunning season: Ending Chiefs’ reign and clinching top AFC seed

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Denver Broncos’ stunning season: Ending Chiefs’ reign and clinching top AFC seed


DENVER — Sean Payton listed three goals for his Denver Broncos this season, and chief among them was knocking off the Kansas City Chiefs.

They did that, winning the AFC West for the first time in a decade and ending K.C.’s nine-year reign atop the division.

The Chiefs, who have played in the past seven AFC championship games, are already aiming for next season after a 6-11 finish that ended with Patrick Mahomes with a surgically repaired knee.

Payton’s second goal was earning the best seed possible in the playoffs so the Broncos wouldn’t have to hit the road like they did last year when they were blasted 31-7 in Buffalo in the wild-card round.

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The Broncos earned the AFC’s No. 1 seed with a franchise record-tying 14 wins.

Super Bowl 60 was the third goal and they’re two home victories away from getting there.

The journey won’t be easy. These are the first AFC playoffs without Mahomes, Peyton Manning or Tom Brady since 1998, another reason it’s seen as a wide-open field without a prohibitive favorite to raise the Lamar Hunt Trophy on Jan. 25.

New England Patriots quarterback Drake Maye celebrates after a touchdown scored by running back TreVeyon Henderson during the second half of an NFL football game against the Miami Dolphins in Foxborough, Mass., Sunday, Jan. 4, 2026. Credit: AP/Charles Krupa

All four division winners were new this year with Denver, New England, Jacksonville and Pittsburgh all earning at least one home playoff game.

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The Broncos will find out their opponent for the divisional round this weekend. They’ll play the lowest remaining seed after wild-card weekend that features two AFC games Sunday and another Monday night.

The Buffalo Bills (12-5) visit the Jacksonville Jaguars (13-4) on Sunday followed by the Los Angeles Chargers (11-6) visiting the New England Patriots (14-3). On Monday night, the Houston Texans (12-5) visit the Pittsburgh Steelers (10-7) as Aaron Rodgers returns to the postseason for the first time since 2021 when he was with Green Bay.

“I think it’s the best possible position to be in,” Broncos second-year QB Bo Nix said. “Two home games is where we want to be. It’s better than having to play on the road and it’s better than having to play an extra game. I think for us, it’s the best-case scenario. It’ll be good to play here because of our stadium and the atmosphere. I think that’ll apply a little bit more pressure. At the end of the day, it’s an open tournament and it’s going to be a really good opportunity to play really good teams. Each one that comes in here is going to be a tough, physical, competitive game.”

Jacksonville Jaguars quarterback Trevor Lawrence (16) looks to throw a...

Jacksonville Jaguars quarterback Trevor Lawrence (16) looks to throw a pass during the first half of an NFL football game against the Tennessee Titans, Sunday, Jan. 4, 2026, in Jacksonville, Fla. Credit: AP/John Raoux

1. (14-3).

Three Lombardi trophies in eight Super Bowl appearances.

Lift the Lombardi: Denver’s defense amassed 68 sacks, the fifth most in history and four shy of the 1984 Chicago Bears’ NFL-record of 72. Here’s the thing: they could have had many more, but defensive coordinator Vance Joseph has built an unselfish pass rush that seeks more to cage in quarterbacks with edge rushers and blitzers never rushing deeper than the QB. Patrick Surtain II, Zach Allen, Nik Bonitto, Jonathon Cooper and Talanoa Hufanga can all wreck offensive game plans.

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Cancel the confetti: As usual in Denver, the offense doesn’t shine like the defense does. Although QB Bo Nix tied Russell Wilson’s NFL record with two dozen victories in his first two NFL seasons, the former Oregon signal caller was erratic with his throws and inconsistent in his play all season. Still, he was clutch when it mattered, throwing for 17 TDs and just two INTs when trailing in 2025. The Broncos are hopeful that if they reach the Super Bowl they’ll get RB J.K. Dobbins back from foot surgery to give their backfield a boost. Until then, its rookie R.J. Harvey’s chance to shine.

“It doesn’t have to be aesthetically pleasing to be effective.” — Payton.

2. (14-3).

Six titles in 11 Super Bowl appearances.

Lift the Lombardi: The Patriots are hungry as they return to the playoffs for the first time since 2021 on the heels of a potential MVP season from second-year quarterback Drake Maye. His production with a league-best 72.0 completion rate, along with 4,394 passing yards and 31 touchdowns are what make New England a threat to emerge from the AFC. Their mix of impactful young talent such as running back TreVeyon Henderson and veteran leaders such as wide receiver Stefon Diggs typify a roster that has bought into new coach Mike Vrabel’s approach. He knows playoff football well, having won three Super Bowls with the Patriots as a player and guiding the Tennessee Titans to three playoff appearances in his six seasons as coach.

Cancel the confetti: One thing that might be a cause for concern is New England’s inconsistency against the run over the latter part of the season. The Patriots defense didn’t allow a 100-yard rusher in the first 11 games. But when defensive tackle Milton Williams went on injured reserve with an ankle injury for five straight games, the Patriots allowed four rushers to eclipse the century mark with him sidelined. He returned for the regular-season finale, but if teams can control the game on the ground and keep the ball out of Maye’s hands for long stretches, it could add up to a short postseason for New England.

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“We’re not here just to get here. We have to be able to host games and compete for championships. There’s not going to be any consolation prize for anybody. We understand what we have to do.” — Vrabel.

3. (13-4).

No Super Bowl appearances.

Lift the Lombardi: The Jaguars are one of four NFL teams — along with Cleveland, Detroit and Houston — that have never reached the Super Bowl. Getting there in coach Liam Coen’s first season would be one of the biggest surprises in recent NFL history. Coen is the seventh head coach in NFL history to win 13 or more games in his first season, and the Jaguars are one of three teams — along with 2005 Patriots and 1999 Colts — to win 13 or more games a year after losing 13 or more. It’s the kind of turnaround that gives players and coaches plenty of confidence heading into their wild-card game against Buffalo. Recent play helps, too. Jacksonville has won eight in a row and nine of 10 since its bye while averaging 32.8 points. The only loss was the largest collapse in franchise history. That 36-29 debacle at Houston in early November still resonates two months later.

Cancel the confetti: Jacksonville has few, if any, elite playmakers on either side of the ball. The team’s only Pro Bowl selection was long snapper Ross Matiscik, and although quarterback Trevor Lawrence, linebacker Devin Lloyd, receiver Parker Washington and safety Antonio Johnson have enjoyed breakout seasons, it’s fair to wonder how far this team can go in the playoffs without any superstars.

4. (10-7).

Six Lombardi trophies in eight Super Bowl appearances.

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Lift the Lombardi: Pittsburgh survived a turbulent regular season by winning four of its final five, capped by a heart-stopping Week 18 victory over rival Baltimore that gave the Steelers their first AFC North title in five years. Aaron Rodgers, in his 21st season, appears to be getting better as the temperature drops and the Steelers will have wide receiver DK Metcalf back after serving a two-game suspension for making contact with a fan in Detroit. Throw in a sometimes leaky defense that is still capable of season-shifting plays, and there’s optimism in Pittsburgh that a deep run is possible for the first time in nearly a decade.

Cancel the confetti: The Steelers have dropped six straight playoff games, most of them in blowout fashion. While longtime coach Mike Tomlin says the weight of those failures rests solely with him and not his team, for long stretches during the season, Pittsburgh looked like a playoff team in name only. The offense has been largely incapable of producing big plays and the pass defense is ranked 29th. Rodgers noted the belief in the locker room is high after last week’s stirring rally against Baltimore. Still, the Steelers have been so uneven over the past four months that the idea they can somehow string together four wins seems like a big stretch.

“It’s not about the organization or myself. It’s about this collective, and quite frankly, most of these men don’t care about the last whatever years that you mentioned (without playoff success). Most of them are new to us, and so that’s where my focus is. I’m certainly not going to unpack my bags on the collective’s bed, if you will.” — Tomlin.

5. (12-5).

No Super Bowl appearances.

Lift the Lombardi: The Texans have never reached the Super Bowl or even the conference title game, but the team’s powerful defense gives them hope that this could be their year as they enter the playoffs on a nine-game winning streak. The unit, led by stars Will Anderson Jr., Danielle Hunter and Derek Stingley held teams to 17.3 points and 277.2 yards per game this season to set franchise marks in both categories. The Texans rank third in the NFL with 29 takeaways and their consistent defensive play helped them overcome losing QB C.J. Stroud to a concussion for three games midseason and rally from an 0-3 start to make the postseason for a third straight year.

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Cancel the confetti: While the defense has been the best in the NFL this season, the offense never really took off with new coordinator Nick Caley and ranks in the middle of the pack. The group was slowed by a season-long injury to running back Joe Mixon and an ineffective performance by backup Nick Chubb. Rookie Woody Marks has had some success, but will need to improve to help the team be more effective in the red zone. Houston has struggled in that area throughout the season and ranks 30th in the NFL by scoring touchdowns on just 46.30% of its trips inside the 20.

“Our team has been through a lot. What I would say about our team is it really doesn’t matter any way the game shapes up. Whatever we need to do to win the game, we find a way to win the game.” — coach DeMeco Ryans.

6.

(12-5).

No Lombardi trophies in four Super Bowl appearances.

Lift the Lombardi: Josh Allen is coming off two weeks of rest and oversees a balanced offense that features the NFL’s rushing champion in James Cook. The fourth-year running back’s more prominent role this season has taken the load off Allen having to do it all on his own. The late-season addition of Brandin Cooks adds a much-needed speed element to a receiving group that had difficulty stretching the field.

Cancel the confetti: Allen still has a propensity to want to do it all on his own. Though he’s twice rallied Buffalo from double-digit fourth-quarter deficits this season, Allen’s also shown signs of pressing and impatience. He’s been sacked a career-high 40 times, and is 3-5 when committing one giveaway, and 1-4 in outings he’s had two turnovers. Buffalo’s bend-but-don’t-break defense has broken too often in allowing 2,315 yards rushing. Buffalo has lost all five road playoff games under coach Sean McDermott, and is 0-8 — not counting two neutral site Super Bowl losses — since winning at Miami in the 1992 AFC championship game.

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“We take a lot of pride in what we’ve done here. And nobody has more internal drive and internal expectations than I do or we do. And very confident in who we are. There’s one thing that remains. We know what that is.” — McDermott on Buffalo failing to make a Super Bowl appearance since he took over in 2017.

7. (11-6).

No Lombardi trophies in one Super Bowl appearance.

Lift the Lombardi: The Chargers are coming off their second consecutive 11-win season and postseason berth under coach Jim Harbaugh. QB Justin Herbert will be playing with a broken left hand (non-throwing) after resting for the regular-season finale against Denver. He racked up 3,727 yards and 26 touchdowns this season. The Chargers have a trio of receivers with at least 50 catches, 700 receiving yards and four TD catches in Keenan Allen, Quentin Johnston and Ladd McConkey.

Cancel the confetti: The banged-up offensive line has been an issue all season. Rashawn Slater was lost in the preseason and then Joe Alt went down six games in. Only Zion Johnson played all 17 games. Herbert went through the wringer nearly every week and still played at a high level despite having surgery on his broken hand. The Chargers rested him and several other starters in Week 18 in the hopes of having fresh bodies for the playoffs. But the O-line will have to better protect Herbert if the Chargers hope to win their first playoff game since 2018.

“I’m sure the more they watch Justin, they realize, ‘Wow, he’s even better than we thought he was.’” — Harbaugh on the Patriots scouting Herbert.

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With contributions from AP Pro Football Writer Mark Long and AP Sports Writers Kyle Hightower, Will Graves, Kristie Rieken, John Wawrow and Beth Harris.



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Denver is revamping its residential health regulations for first time in a decade

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Denver is revamping its residential health regulations for first time in a decade


For the first time in a decade, Denver plans to revamp its residential health regulations.

City officials have been meeting with housing advocates and stakeholders for the past year, gathering input about how they might better protect tenants and maintain housing habitability standards amid a housing crisis and increasing corporate consolidation in the rental market.

In a Dec. 19 memo obtained by The Denver Post, Mayor Mike Johnston outlined a series of proposals that would increase transparency for residents, help tenant organizations better negotiate with management and ensure that problematic landlords address violations and fines before their rental licenses are approved.

Nicol Caldwell, public health manager with the Denver Department of Public Health and Environment, said the agency last updated its regulations 10 years ago — and that was only a minor revision.

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“What we’re looking at now is basically a complete overhaul of the ordinance and rules and regulations,” she said in an interview. “It’s gonna be a pretty big effort.”

These changes will come in three different buckets. Internal policies and procedures — such as what inspectors wear and how they fill out forms — can be changed unilaterally by public health leadership. Rules and regulations — such as the minimum temperature a unit must maintain — must be approved by the DDPHE board. Larger changes to Denver’s city code must go before the City Council.

This process began in October 2024 as the city was working on its annual budget. Housing advocates were beating the drum over tenant protections, lamenting a lack of enforcement from city regulators as residents lived in buildings without heat and hot water, or their units were infested with cockroaches and bed bugs.

In response to the feedback, the city agreed to add a public health investigator position as well as an analyst to create a public dashboard for residential health complaints and citations. Johnston also agreed to hold a series of stakeholder meetings with the Denver Metro Tenants Union and other housing organizations to discuss more avenues to protect residents.

“The reality is that there are bad actors out there who are not putting in the work that’s necessary to maintain their properties on a regular basis,” Caldwell told The Post in January 2025.

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The mayor’s memo outlined a series of “focus areas” that the public health team will consider during its overhaul, including:

  • Requiring landlords to provide tenants with more information about violations and ongoing or completed enforcement actions
  • Setting a maximum indoor temperature requirement to address overheating concerns
  • Mandating that landlords meet and confer with tenants upon request to discuss property conditions or needed repairs
  • Improving communication during the city’s proactive inspections
  • Ensuring landlords pay outstanding fines and correct violations before they can renew their residential rental licenses

Some of the changes have already gone live. Members of the public can now find a comprehensive dashboard on the city’s website that tracks residential health complaints, violations and citations for any address dating back to 2022. Renters can now look up a prospective apartment building before they sign a lease, ensuring they’re moving into a space without years of documented problems.

The department previously increased the amount it can fine violators and started applying liens for unpaid fines.

“The ultimate hope is to make sure everyone in Denver, regardless of what type of dwelling they live in, has equal access to a healthy and safe environment,” Caldwell said.

Eida Altman, director of the Denver Metro Tenants Union, called Johnston’s letter “encouraging.”

“It indicated that the mayor’s office hears and understands many of the key issues we have been advocating around, and it signals that the conversation we held over the past year is the beginning, not the end,” she said.

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Serena Gonzales-Gutierrez, a Denver city councilwoman, said the discussions are “just the tip of the iceberg.” There’s still a lot more work to be done, she said.

“This is a good example of how our government and community can come together to work toward solutions,” she said in an interview.



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