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Four Newish Restaurants Bring World Flavors to Chittenden County

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Four Newish Restaurants Bring World Flavors to Chittenden County


click on to enlarge
  • Daria Bishop
  • Tandoori rooster and vegetable thali at Laliguras Indian Nepali Restaurant.

As the Seven Days meals staff mirrored on the state of Vermont’s eating scene on the finish of 2022, one of many sudden highlights was an explosion of world cuisines. In a state the place farm-to-table tends to drive the dialog — and the place we’ve got wood-fired pizza popping out of our ears — a brand new wave of Afghan, Argentinian, Bosnian, Colombian, Dominican, Filipino, Haitian, Indian, Iranian, Iraqi, Jamaican-British, Korean, Mexican, Puerto Rican, Somali and Taiwanese pop-ups, meals carts, market distributors and eating places is greater than welcome.

Now that we have settled into 2023, we headed out to 4 newish brick-and-mortar spots that carry flavors from around the globe to Chittenden County, together with two which can be proper subsequent door to one another in Essex Junction. We did not even want our passports.

— J.B.

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Flavors in Bloom

Laliguras Indian-Nepali Restaurant

146 Church St., Burlington, 800-1238, laligurasindiannepalirestaurant.com
click on to enlarge Dhruba Lamsal and Raj Adhikari at Laliguras - DARIA BISHOP
  • Daria Bishop
  • Dhruba Lamsal and Raj Adhikari at Laliguras

On a current Monday round 3:30 p.m., a trio sat down for a late lunch at Laliguras Indian-Nepali Restaurant on the Church Avenue Market. Following the recommendation of supervisor Dhruba Lamsal, the get together of structure college students on a day journey from Québec ordered two of the Nepali specialties on the menu: vegetable thukpa noodle soup ($10.99) and vegetarian momos ($10.99).

They mentioned the soup and the dumplings, served with a calmly spicy and candy dipping sauce, have been new to them and really satisfying. “Pretty much as good as something in Montréal,” Victor Rifiorati enthused.

“The broth is like nothing I’ve ever had,” Saz Szatmári mentioned as she spooned up her soup. “It is the proper quantity of spicy.”

The guests have been precisely the kind of clients co-owners and brothers Raj and Kabi Adhikari have been hoping to draw once they opened Laliguras final June within the downtown restaurant beforehand occupied by the Rusty Scuffer.

“We now have lots of site visitors right here, lots of people who’re coming to see the city, strolling round,” Raj, 30, mentioned. “They usually discover the restaurant.”

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Initially from Bhutan, the Adhikari household spent years in Nepalese refugee camps earlier than arriving in Vermont in 2011. The brothers labored in a variety of space eating places earlier than launching Laliguras, which they named for the purple rhododendron, the nationwide flower of Nepal.

Whereas Raj chatted in regards to the restaurant, his two younger sons sat within the sales space beside him, crunching fortunately on the cumin seed-speckled papadum crackers that every desk receives upon sitting.

Lamsal introduced out a scorching pan of tandoori rooster ($17.99) strewn with cilantro on a mattress of frizzled cabbage, carrots and onion. Jace Adhikari, age 4.5, might hardly restrain himself from sneaking a chunk of the just about luminously crimson charred and spice-rubbed bone-in meat that emanated mouthwatering scents mere inches from his face.

The moist, tender rooster is ready by a kitchen staff that features Raj; Lamsal’s spouse, Sabu; and Krishna Bhattarai. Lamsal runs the eating room easily, even when juggling a full home nearly single-handed. He recommended my desk of 5 on a current Saturday night to order the rooster momos ($11.99 for 10) steamed, not fried.

Among the many many momos now out there within the Burlington space, these stood out for his or her skinny, nearly translucent pores and skin. We additionally significantly loved the flaky paratha bread ($2.99) and malai kofta ($14.99). These vegetarian balls have been a toothsome and texturally nice mixture of cashew, carrot, paneer and potatoes simmered in the identical creamy, tomatoey sauce utilized in rooster tikka masala ($15.99), which Lamsal mentioned is a buyer favourite.

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Diners who do not but have a go-to dish ought to attempt the vegetable or meat thali ($19.99 or $20.99), which is actually a tasting menu. The combo varies day by day, Lamsal mentioned. Our vegetable thali included small bowls of dal makhani (spiced black lentils), saag paneer (spinach with paneer cheese), aloo gobi (cauliflower and potato curry), chana masala (curried chickpeas), and white rice, plus a chile-spiked pickle and a single candy gulab jamun ball. The meat possibility features a dal, a vegetable curry, rooster tikka masala and the diner’s selection of a meat curry.

Any certainly one of these could possibly be your new favourite Laliguras order.

— M.P.


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Filipino Fusion

Nagueños Filipino American Diner

34 Park St., Suite 8, Essex Junction, 871-5363, naguenosfilamdiner.com
click on to enlarge Nagueños Filipino American Diner co-owners from left: JR and Emma Perez (with their baby Ãine) and Jerrymay and Paul Lopez - DARIA BISHOP
  • Daria Bishop
  • Nagueños Filipino American Diner co-owners from left: JR and Emma Perez (with their child Ãine) and Jerrymay and Paul Lopez

Making mates as an grownup is difficult. Making mates who will allow you to select the restaurant, break up all the things on the menu and demand on dessert? Virtually not possible.

However I obtained fortunate within the new good friend division, as a result of that is exactly what occurred on a “good friend first date” at Nagueños Filipino American Diner. Attempting out the Essex Junction spot was all my concept, and we dove right into a slew of shared plates. My new pal Jamie instructed leche flan for dessert, sealing the deal.

Jerrymay and Paul Lopez and Emma and JR Perez opened Nagueños within the former Coronary heart n Soul by Mark BBQ location in mid-December. Their distinctive menu combines conventional dishes from the Philippines — the place JR, Paul and Jerrymay grew up and earned levels in resort and restaurant administration earlier than shifting to the U.S. — with American classics comparable to chef’s salad, burgers and Philly cheesesteak. In traditional Vermont vogue, they’re utilizing as many native components as attainable.

“We wish to give individuals good-quality meals with a twist of our Filipino tradition,” JR informed Seven Days forward of the restaurant’s opening. “And we wish to give individuals in Vermont one thing that they’ve by no means tried earlier than.”

On a current Thursday night, Jamie and I joined a number of different teams of diners within the small restaurant as a gentle stream of shoppers picked up takeout. (Nagueños doesn’t but provide supply, nevertheless it’s within the works.) We excitedly debated what number of dishes have been too many, deciding on each candy potato ($6) and pork ($8) lumpia (fried spring rolls), together with palabok ($15) from the merienda (snack) menu, Bacolod rooster Inasal ($16), and tortang talong ($15).

The menu will change a bit within the spring, Paul mentioned, in order that Nagueños can provide its clients much more dishes to attempt. For now, the lumpia and Bacolod rooster Inasal are among the many hottest dishes, together with Bicol Specific, a spicy pork stew from Paul and JR’s residence area.

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click on to enlarge Leche flan - DARIA BISHOP

Bacolod rooster Inasal is known as for a restaurant chain based in Jerrymay’s native metropolis and its namesake dish: grilled rooster skewers marinated in vinegar and spices, then served with atchara, pickled inexperienced papaya. We opted to improve to garlic rice ($2 additional), which added an additional punch to the already flavorful dish.

Palabok, which interprets loosely to “sauce,” is a rice noodle stir-fry coated in a wealthy bacon, garlic and shrimp sauce. The ample plate was greater than my concept of a snack, nevertheless it made nice lunch leftovers together with the remnants of tortang talong — fritters created from complete eggplant dipped in eggy batter.

We managed to eat a luscious slice of leche flan ($6) earlier than we admitted how full we have been. The custardy, caramel-topped dessert was a super ending to a enjoyable meal.

“It’s a must to inform individuals to return right here for the flan,” Jamie mentioned on our means out. From my new good friend’s lips to your ears.

— J.B.

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Vegetarian Imaginative and prescient

Namaste Backyard

34 Park St., Suite 11, Essex Junction, 764-0767, namastegardenvt.com
click on to enlarge Sharandeep Matri beside the sweets counter at Namaste Garden - DARIA BISHOP
  • Daria Bishop
  • Sharandeep Matri beside the sweets counter at Namaste Backyard

The previous few months have been thrilling within the Essex Junction meals scene. With an inflow of growth, demand for foods and drinks has grown. And companies comparable to Nagueños and vegetarian Indian spot Namaste Backyard — which opened final September — are assembly it deliciously.

Boxcar Bakery co-owner Stacey Daley, whose neighboring biz opened simply after Namaste Backyard, summed it up completely: “Essex Junction is blowing up.”

I might heard solely good issues about Namaste Backyard because it launched within the former Meals Bar location. After a cold Sunday sap boil, I headed over to test it out and heat up with a little bit of spice.

My husband and I have been the one two eating within the restaurant once we arrived within the early night. It was turning right into a snowy evening, not very best for eating out, however the door stored swinging open with clients grabbing takeout and supply drivers choosing up DoorDash, Uber Eats and Seamless orders.

Co-owner Sharandeep Matri admitted to having been nervous about opening a completely vegetarian restaurant with vegan choices. “We did not know the way the neighborhood will assist us, as a result of, you understand, no meat. Folks love meat,” she mentioned with amusing. “However our enterprise is doing splendidly.”

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As we thought of the prolonged menu, I quickly forgot that Namaste Backyard was “no meat.” We settled on appetizers I might order at any Indian restaurant: aloo tikki (deep-fried potato and pea fritters, $4.99) and samosa chaat (a north Indian road meals dish of crispy samosas topped with chickpeas, onion, yogurt and tangy sauces, $6.99).

I used to be thrilled to see the South Indian part of the menu. My sister-in-law is from Hyderabad and infrequently cooks South Indian staples comparable to masala dosa and idli sambar, however they seem to be a uncommon deal with in Chittenden County’s predominantly North Indian and Himalayan eating places. Namaste Backyard was out of the fermented lentil-and-rice dosa batter for the night, so I opted for the idli ($8.99). The pillowy, steamed muffins are sometimes a breakfast dish, however I did not care what time of day it was as I dipped them within the wealthy sambar (a veggie and lentil stew).

click on to enlarge Clockwise from top: Garlic naan, mango lassi, samosa chaat, idli sambar, paneer masala and rice - DARIA BISHOP
  • Daria Bishop
  • Clockwise from high: Garlic naan, mango lassi, samosa chaat, idli sambar, paneer masala and rice

The vegetarian curry part of the menu was filled with intriguing choices, however we settled on a takeout traditional: paneer masala ($12.99). Massive chunks of soppy, home made cheese floated within the creamy tomato base; I mopped them up with probably the most garlicky garlic naan I’ve ever had. We would opted for medium spice on all our dishes, and every was spot-on.

On the finish of the meal, I walked over to peruse the totally stocked sweets counter, loaded with conventional gadgets comparable to ladoo and coconut cham-cham, all made in-house. I left with a container of spherical gram-flour ladoo, fudge-like chocolate barfi and golden kesar peda, created from milk, sugar, cardamom and saffron. I am saving the new gulab jamun for subsequent time.

“Folks see all of the sweets and respect that we carry one thing new to the neighborhood, to the state,” Matri mentioned. “They eat them for dessert, after which they need us to pack a field to take for his or her household.”

— J.B.

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Style of Residence

Bamyan Kebab Home

65 Winooski Falls Manner, Winooski, 355-5488, bamyankebabhousevt.com
click on to enlarge Awran Hashimi holding a Chelo Kebab Kubidah with chicken at Bamyan Kebab House - DARIA BISHOP
  • Daria Bishop
  • Awran Hashimi holding a Chelo Kebab Kubidah with rooster at Bamyan Kebab Home

It has been a gradual and rocky highway for first-time restaurant homeowners and brothers Awran and Wazirgul Hashimi. Final June they opened Bamyan Kebab Home within the Winooski spot vacated by Shafer’s Market & Deli. After a few month of serving up grilled kebabs over spiced rice and a flaky, fried bread full of scallions and greens referred to as bolani, Bamyan needed to shut quickly on account of a scarcity of kitchen workers and issues with the availability chain for essential cooking tools.

Lastly, with a brand new chef staff, a working open-flame grill and a proper reopening deliberate for this week, there may be gentle on the finish of the tunnel — an acceptable metaphor for a restaurant whose title means “shining gentle.” That is additionally the title of the Hashimis’ native province in Afghanistan and its capital metropolis.

As Seven Days beforehand reported, Awran, now 30, got here to Poultney from Afghanistan in 2011 with a U.S. government-sponsored scholar alternate program. He stayed to attend the now-closed Inexperienced Mountain Faculty, after which he earned a grasp’s diploma in human sources and strategic administration from the College of Denver. His youthful brother, Wazirgul, joined him within the U.S., initially on a scholar visa.

The pair did not initially aspire to turn out to be restaurateurs, however after Vermont welcomed a variety of refugees from Afghanistan, Awran recalled, “We determined to open this area as a social area for them to get related, to really feel nearer to residence, in addition to to introduce Afghan tradition to Vermonters.”

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The brand new chef, Raouf Khan, cooked at Bamyan in early February earlier than returning to Virginia to carry his household to Vermont. He and one other chef initially from Afghanistan will provide a menu that includes halal meats in dishes comparable to Qabuli palao: stewed lamb or beef on rice spiced with garam masala, saffron, cardamom and cinnamon ($23). Lamb chops marinated in olive oil and lemon juice will likely be seasoned with rosemary, thyme, oregano and garlic and served with rice and flatbread ($25). Hen, beef or minced lamb kebabs will likely be served with rice ($21 to $25), and stews of beef or lamb will likely be braised tender with housemade yogurt, tomatoes, onions and chile powder ($22).

Awran promised that mantu, the long-lasting Afghan dish of steamed, stuffed dumplings, will lastly make it onto the menu.

Hurdles stay, together with the issue of accessing some key components. Missing a trusted native supply of halal meat, Awran mentioned, “We go each week to Albany [N.Y.].”

However the younger entrepreneur stays optimistic. Some refugees who initially resettled in Vermont from Afghanistan have left for hotter and extra populous areas of the U.S., Awran mentioned, however he’s right here to remain.

“I just like the small metropolis. The persons are extra pleasant right here, extra supportive,” he mentioned. “You’ll be able to talk in a extra human means.”

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— M.P.



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Vermont

New tactile sign on Burlington's waterfront aims to improve accessibility

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New tactile sign on Burlington's waterfront aims to improve accessibility


Earlier this week a small crowd of 30 or so people gathered on Burlington’s waterfront.

They were there to get the first glimpse of a new sign, which was created specifically to improve accessibility for those who are blind or visually impaired. It is the first in Vermont’s Queen City, according to organizers.

It provides information about well-known locations like the Burlington Community Boathouse Marina, the lake, the ECHO Leahy Center for Lake Champlain and the A_Dog Skatepark through the use of raised images, along with Braille lettering, contrasting colors, text and photo images.

Steve Pouliot, executive director of the Vermont Association for the Blind and Visually Impaired (VABVI), one of the collaborating groups that worked on this project, praised the effort.

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“This will provide an enriching, inclusive experience for everyone who visits the waterfront, regardless of what their level of sensory access might be,” he said during Tuesday’s dedication ceremony. “So we hope that this will be a model that could and should be emulated across the city and even our state.”

The association worked with Burlington Parks, Recreation and Waterfront for more than 2 years on the project.

The groups said they solicited feedback from many different people with impaired vision or other differing abilities. Cindy Wight, director of the parks department, said she hopes the sign will benefit everyone.

“If you’re coming down to waterfront park for the first time and you’ve never been here, you don’t know that there’s a fishing pier all the way out on the other end of the park,” she said.

Tom Frank, of Milton, agreed. Frank is blind and first began to lose his vision at 21.

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Mary Engisch

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Vermont Public

Tom Frank traveled from Milton to attend Tuesday’s sign unveiling.

“You don’t know what you don’t know. You can’t see it,” he said. “So when you’re checking out the map and going, ‘Here, OK so what’s that sticking up here?’ Oh well that’s a wharf! Well I didn’t know there were wharfs down that way.”

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He said for some people who are blind or have vision impairment, simply physically orienting themselves and determining distances can be a challenge.

“It’s very difficult to determine how far something is away. You just don’t have any perspective,” Frank said. “So if a relief map like this one, you can look at it and say, ‘Well, I know where this is and I know how long it takes me to walk here. Oh, it’ll take me so much longer to get down to this point.’”

The new map also alerts visitors of certain terrain types. That’s especially helpful for people like Nate Besio, who is a power chair user. The Colchester resident is also the chair of Burlington’s Advisory Committee on Accessibility.

Besio said both the parks department and VABVI listened to input from the disabled community during the creation of the tactile sign.

“This is really a good collaboration, this tactile sign,” he said. “It was really something where people from both sides got together. We got our feedback from people with disabilities, we were able to arrange people to come down and provide feedback on a lot of different aspects of it. So it was really an exciting collaborative effort.”

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More services to assist blind and visually impaired visitors who might use the sign are coming soon including a scannable QR code that will unlock additional information. There’s also a plan to film an interpreter using ASL to translate the signage info, and more tactile signs are in the planning stages. 

Have questions, comments or tips? Send us a message.





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Two Vermont senators sue Gov. Scott over secretary of education interim appointment

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Two Vermont senators sue Gov. Scott over secretary of education interim appointment


Two Vermont senators are suing Gov. Phil Scott over his controversial appointment of interim Secretary of Education Zoie Saunders.

In a lawsuit filed on June 19, Sens. Tanya Vyhovsky, P/D-Chittenden, and Richard McCormack, D-Windsor, accused Scott of violating the Vermont Constitution when he selected Saunders to serve as interim Secretary of Education after the Senate blocked her permanent appointment to the position.

The lawsuit argues that Scott is constitutionally obligated to “obtain the advice and consent” of the Senate before filling a secretary of state agencies seat.

“The governor can’t strip away the power granted to the senate by both the VT constitution and state law,” Vyhovsky said in a Facebook post about the lawsuit on June 21, “but by disregarding our unambiguous decision to reject his appointment for Secretary of Education he did exactly that.”

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Scott, however, said back in April that he had followed historical precedent, contending that former Gov. Howard Dean also bypassed Senate opposition to appoint his nominees, according to VTDigger. VTDigger, however, pointed out that none of the nominees Dean reappointed held cabinet positions.

More: Vermont Legislature makes history, overrides six vetoes

Scott spokesperson Amanda Wheeler disparaged the lawsuit as “another example of legislators focusing more on partisan political maneuvering than the hard work to help schools, kids and taxpayers.”

“And make no mistake, it’s no coincidence this was announced the same week the legislature imposed a 14% property tax increase,” Wheeler said, referencing the “yield bill” Scott has consistently lambasted for being economically irresponsible. “They’d like nothing more than to change the subject and distract Vermonters and the press.”

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Vyhovsky denied any ulterior motives for the lawsuit, calling accusations that she and McCormack are trying to divert attention from their legislative actions “not just incorrect but wildly off-base.” She also rejected claims that they filed the lawsuit because of “political parties or divides.”

“Sen. McCormack and I are doing this because it’s the right thing to do, not because of the letters after our names, and because we both took an oath of office to protect and uphold the Vermont Constitution,” Vyhovsky wrote on Facebook, adding that she believes “the overreach of executive power leads us away from democracy to authoritarianism unless it’s challenged at every point.”

What led to the lawsuit?

Scott announced on March 22 that he had selected Saunders – a former education administrator from Florida – to serve as secretary of education from a pool of candidates recommended by the state Board of Education. When Saunders took office on April 15, her position had been vacant for roughly a year, with Deputy Secretary Heather Bouchey serving as interim in the meantime.  

Scott’s pick immediately came under fire from critics – both constituents and lawmakers – who expressed concern about Saunders’ work experience. For instance, Saunders had only spent three months in public school leadership prior to accepting the secretary of education role in Vermont. She also had never served as a teacher, principal, school district administrator or superintendent like past secretaries of education had.

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Additionally, some Vermonters questioned Saunders’ charter school experience, especially her connection to Charter Schools USA, whose founder emerged from the conservative think tank The Heritage Foundation.

Scott defended Saunders in a March 28 statement, accusing critics of “spreading or believing misinformation, making assumptions and levying attacks on her character” before even getting to know his nominee.

Despite Scott’s admonishment, the Senate voted 19-9 to reject Saunders as secretary of education.

“Ninety-nine times out of a hundred, the Senate heartily endorses the appointee, but in this case a majority of the Senate found Zoie Saunders’ resume a mismatch with the current moment,” said Senate President Pro Tempore Phil Baruth, D-Chittenden, in a statement.

Immediately following the Senate vote, Scott named Saunders the state’s interim secretary of education – the reason for Vyhovsky and McCormack’s lawsuit.

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“Zoie’s professionalism, grace, and class throughout this process, despite the unfair, ill-informed treatment, has been truly remarkable and honorable,” Scott said in a statement. “I’m very proud of her and how she has handled these hurtful, false attacks, which makes me and my entire team more confident than ever that she is the right person for the job.”

Vyhovsky reiterated on Facebook that the Senate’s feelings about Saunders is not why she and McCormack filed the lawsuit.

“This is not about the person Gov. Scott submitted for appointment nor is it about the work that she’s done,” Vyhovsky wrote. “It’s about the governor’s decision to overrule the senate and make that appointment without our legally required consent. It’s about making case law that tells any governor who comes after Scott that Vermont enforces the separation of powers.”

What are the plaintiffs’ goals?

In the lawsuit – which also lists Saunders as a defendant – Vyhovsky and McCormack are asking the Vermont Superior Court to rule that Scott cannot circumvent the Senate’s authority by appointing a candidate they rejected to an interim version of that cabinet position. (The statue referred to in the lawsuit does not explicitly state interim appointments must be approved by the Senate, just secretary of state agencies appointments in general.)

The plaintiffs are also asking the court to declare that the Senate’s rejection of Saunders is the chamber’s “final act” on the matter for the 2024 session, since Scott did not resubmit his nominee’s name for consideration on or before the day the Legislature graveled out.

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Vyhovsky and McCormack are asking the court to rule that Saunders has not “validly functioned” in her role as secretary of education – due to the reasons above – thereby nullifying any actions she’s taken since she assumed the position at the end of April.

Who is paying for the lawsuit?

Vyhovsky told the Free Press in an email that Vermonters “across the political spectrum” have stepped up to donate over $11,000 toward the plaintiffs’ attorney fees. She and McCormack plan to fund the rest, assuming the donations don’t already cover everything, Vyhovsky said.

“It’s unfortunate that two Senators needed to use private resources to sue to enforce the separation of powers as defined in both the VT constitution and state law,” Vyhovsky wrote, but added that “retaining private counsel was the only viable option” as she and McCormack needed to take immediate legal action.

All donations will be paid directly to a IOLTA trust account belonging to one of the plaintiffs’ lawyers.

Megan Stewart is a government accountability reporter for the Burlington Free Press. Contact her at mstewartyounger@gannett.com.

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‘Goldilocks’ trees face climate change threats; community conservation work key to protecting Vermont maple industry

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‘Goldilocks’ trees face climate change threats; community conservation work key to protecting Vermont maple industry


FRANKLIN COUNTY– As winters warm, Vermont’s maple trees are under threat from a revolving door of future concerns and dangerous invasive species. 

“If you’re in the business of having a forest, it’s tough,” said Jason Gagne, a Highgate sugarmaker and vice president of the Franklin County Sugarmakers’ Association. 

According to the Vermont Department of Health, the state has seen an increase in temperature of four degrees in the winter and two degrees in the summer since the 1960s. As the climate shifts, spring is beginning two weeks earlier while winter is starting one week later than it was previously. 

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As the climate changes, species which prefer warmer areas may be drawn up into more northern, historically cooler areas as they expand their territory. Non-native species which prefer these warmer climates can move into an area, like Vermont, which does not have natural protection against these non-native species, and decimate the ecosystem. 

Invasive species can be brought by humans intentionally or unintentionally, or can be spread through migration during changing climate patterns. 

There are people monitoring the situation, however, powering through to help strengthen Vermont’s forest health. From state-level experts and specialists to conservation groups at a regional level and conservation commissions at the local level, people are working together to protect the forests.

Warming weather and maple 

Vermont has led the U.S. in maple syrup production since 1916 with only two years having been out-produced by other states. Maple production is huge economically for the state, but also culturally, as sugarmaking is often a family tradition, passed down generation to generation.  

Since the 1990s, maple syrup production has continually increased, while at the same time Vermont has become one of the fastest warming states in the U.S.

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Warmer temperatures mean maple trees are beginning to have a shorter window to tap into. From 1965-2015, Vermont lost about 3.3 days of the sugar production season. This variability in winter climates and shorter sugaring seasons can cause periods of insufficient maple production and threats from invasive species. 

Mark Isselhardt, maple specialist for the University of Vermont Maple Extension, said the threats to the maple industry are multi-faceted. 

“Those conditions that encourage or discourage a good run of sap are not evenly distributed across the season,” he said. “It’s pretty random but can have a huge impact on the total yield. It can be the difference of a couple degrees that can make a big difference whether or not sap runs.”

Isselhardt said as the temperatures have warmed, he’s seen sugarmakers begin tapping trees in December and January – a month or two before the traditional sugaring season begins. 

Over the past few years, Vermont maple farmers have seen the difference between too warm a season and too cold a season. 2022, for example, was widely viewed as a strong production year, as temperatures were ideal, Isselhardt said. But in 2023, temperatures warmed up and were followed by a prolonged cold snap, which hurt the overall yield. 

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Gagne and many other Franklin County sugarmakers have experienced first-hand warmer temperatures impacting local maple syrup production. 

“April can be very warm and it can produce a lot of syrup or zero,” Gagne said. “This year, we made very little syrup in April. It was just too warm in March and the trees kind of shut down for us.” 

Sugarmakers have to be prepared for a random change in temperature, or a  “mother nature curveball,” he added.

Warming during the sugaring season can cause a blockage tapping the trees. The taps inside the trees create a perfect mix for a microbial environment, Isselhardt said. This activity can create a blockage which cuts off the tap and completely stops production from the tap. 

Looking into the future, Isselhardt said the growth of new maple trees could be harmed by warming temperatures. 

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“A sustained warmth period that promotes an early exit from dormancy and then late frosts can cause damage to young trees,” he said. “A late frost isn’t going to kill, but it will delay trees’ ability to photosynthesis and rebuild stores of energy.”

Longer-term threats are slower to play out. Vermont may have a good amount of trees that will not disappear right now, but Isselhardt said the concern is a generational shift down the line. 






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Damage to an old sugar maple that had already developed some decay around a weak branch junction.




“Sugar maple tends to be categorized as a ‘Goldilocks’ tree,” he said. “It thrives in a specific type of soil. Some places where sugar maples are growing are not on the most ideal site, so if you combine that with some other threats you might see, over time, sugar maple struggling to thrive through individual tree growth or requirements for next-gen tree growth.”

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Maple trees rely heavily on cold winters to have a competitive advantage over other species. Isselhardt said warmer temperatures could invite species both known and unknown to take advantage of the maple seeds waiting to start growing. 

Josh Halman, forest health program manager for the State of Vermont, said the warming temperatures can create a way for invasives to latch on to sugar maple trees. 

“There is a lengthening of the growing season we’ve seen in sugar maple,” he said. “Those conditions can increase success for those invasive species and further their presence in the state.”

The impact of invasive species 

Invasive species that directly attack maple trees and those which harm the forest around them are monitored closely by the UVM Maple Extension program. 

Jumping Worms, for example, while not a direct attack to maple trees, harm the ideal soil conditions the trees need to thrive and grow in. The worms, which have been seen in 12 of Vermont’s 14 counties – including Franklin County – consume organic material, like decaying leaves and twigs, making it difficult for maple seedlings to get established.”

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“They change the environment in the soil to the point where sugar maple struggles to regenerate,” Isselhardt said. 

There are very few pesticide applications available for maple trees. When new invasive species show up, maple producers are going to have a difficult time controlling the fight. 

Gagne said he’s always worried about the next invasive. The elm tree has almost completely been wiped out, ash trees are falling, and Gagne said he’s worried maple is next on that list. 

“I’m very worried maple could be the next one,” he said. “There’s nothing on the radar right now, but that doesn’t mean in five years from now they couldn’t attack maple.” 

From an individual sugarmaker’s perspective, Gagne said warming temperatures and invasive species can compound stressors the trees already feel. 

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“Not all will survive because they are so stressed out,” he said. “If it was a dryer year and you tap it, that’s another stress, if there’s more, then the tree won’t make it.”

Maple farmers are also keeping an eye out for two other invasives: the Spotted Lanternfly and the Asian Longhorned Beetle. Both insects are attracted to sweeter saps and warmer conditions, putting maple trees as a prime point of interest. 

The Spotted Lanternfly has made it as far north as Maine, with three making it to Vermont in 2021 before being killed and yet to return. ALB is currently in quarantine in central Massachusetts where it continues to be an invasive species to the area and is under constant watch by the USDA and Vermont officials.

This past January, maple producers were told to check their trees in case of ALB infestation, but no beetles were found in the state. 

Community efforts underway

While the future may look alarming, there are ways Vermonters and maple producers can work together to help safeguard the state’s forests. 

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For maple producers, Isselhardt said the diversity of a forest could be important in defending sugarbushes from some impacts. 

“We know in general a more diverse forest can mitigate stressors and sugar producers can retain another 25% of non-sugar maple, which appears to be important in lessening the impacts,” Isselhardt said. “It’s not just species diversity, but also encouraging multi-age forests. Not all the same aged trees but actually encouraging complexity and so there’s a range of ages.”

A range of young, medium and old maple trees is protection in case of a disturbance. If a tree falls down or is removed for example, nothing else will be able to take advantage of an opening in the canopy if a different aged maple tree can take its place.  

With new technologies, Isselhardt said it’s important to look at the traditional sap collection methods and update them for the future. 

“That ideal sugarbush image in the past used to be really big, widely spaced trees with really nothing else around,” he said. “That made a lot of sense when you had buckets as your only means of collecting sap, but with tubing it really changes it and now you can focus more on having a more robust, resilient forest.” 

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Understanding where the maple industry is heading remains hard work with complex systems and modelings. Doing good work now to promote forest health for the future is important and gives the trees the best position for resisting future damage.

The Franklin County Sugar Makers Association is always watching for threats, Gagne said. Members look after each other’s backs and monitor threats. He said they are happy to continue seeing Vermont’s success at the top of the maple-producing states. 

“We’re always very active at the association level getting ahead of everything, but overall, maple is very strong in Vermont right now,” he said. 

Community efforts also play an important role in keeping Vermont’s landscape as healthy as possible. 

In Franklin County, conservation commissions in Georgia and Richford as well as other towns make efforts to remove invasive species in their respective areas, though it can be challenging to do so. 

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“It’s very easy to spot invasive plants once you know what they look like. In fact, once you learn about them you will see them everywhere,” Alysia Catalfamo, chair of the Georgia Conservation Commission, said. “Removing them is much harder.”

Catalfamo said the combination of physical labor and insecticide makes the removal a long process, and it makes it even harder to remove the species around town.

As a warming climate impacts Vermont, she said the foothold of invasive species in the lower parts of the state have begun moving up toward Georgia. Although they can find some nests or seed producing trees and get rid of them, the impact is already around. 

But individuals can make a difference by being vigilant and checking their properties for invasives and quickly removing them. 

The conservation commission also holds events to raise awareness and remove the invasives. As they battle an invasive plant, Buckthorn, the commission will have a Buckthorn “party” event in the fall where Catalfamo said the community is welcome to come and help pull out the plant. 

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Richford Conservation Commission Chair Annette Goyne agrees. She said with support from the community and town, the fight against invasives can move quicker.   

Goyne said they have seen evidence of the Emerald Ash Borer spreading around Vermont and decided early on to make an action plan. She said meeting with the Town Road Crew and selectboard, the commission was able to make swift decisions in hopes of protecting their ecosystem. 







EAB Map

A map of the counties in Vermont affected by Emerald Ash Borer infestations.

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Goyne said over the winter, the road crew took down some of the trees vulnerable to the Emerald Ash Borer, mostly in South Richford, but left some remaining. 

“There are still many private landowners with healthy ash trees and younger trees, and the hope is that some will out last this invasive species and replenish our ecosystem eventually, but in most of the country, this beetle has really wiped out the ash trees, so time will tell,” she said. 

Other efforts come from conservation groups like the Missisquoi River Basin Association, which works tirelessly in their efforts across the river to keep the landscape healthy. 

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MRBA field coordinator Sarah Lunn said their project to fight invasive Japanese Knotweed began in 2020 and has continued since. The plant spreads so easily it is often easily seen across Route 7 in Franklin County. 

The most effective part of the removal project has been community outreach. Lunn said she works with landowners around the Missisquoi River who email her and help them learn removal and prevention methods.

“I think the number one thing about invasive work is making sure people are informed about it,” she said. “A lot of invasive work doesn’t get lots of funding for conservation so a lot of this work takes lots of volunteer work.”

Halman doubled down on that message and said one of the most important parts to creating a healthy forest is having an informed public. 

“The number one thing is education and making the public aware of the species that are out there, prevent the introduction and what to do if they find it,” he said. “It’s just as important to provide info on how to manage them when they do show up.”

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Volunteer efforts do not just come from local towns and villages but also through a more statewide approach. The Forest Pest First Detectors program consists of community members around Vermont who are the first people to notice invasives and report them. 

Vermont relies on testing from inside and outside the state, while also looking towards Vermonters to help report and identify invasive species. 

The LIEP Invasive Species Program helps Vermonters locate, identify and prevent future invasive species and the public is encouraged to report an invasive species finding and location using the VT invasives reporting tool.





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