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‘Menus-Plaisirs’ serves up decadence a la Wiseman

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‘Menus-Plaisirs’ serves up decadence a la Wiseman


Boston-born, 94-year-old non-fiction film wizard Frederick Wiseman turns his gaze to one of the most celebrated restaurants in the world in “Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros,” and I hesitate to say that the results are delicious. Even at a feast-worthy length of 240 minutes, I remained fully engrossed in this unflinchingly exhaustive examination of the way a French restaurant that has had three Michelin stars for over 50 years operates. Anyone wondering if Wiseman made the film in order to get to eat at Le Bois sans Feiulles in France’s Loire Valley for as long as it took to make the film is not alone.

Over the course of the drama, we spend time with restaurateur-patriarch Michel Troisgros, a master of the history of the culinary arts in France and the Far East, and learn about his very high standards as he passes the baton to his son Cesar, while his younger son Leo runs another family restaurant La Colline. We also hear about a third Troisgros restaurant. Guests at these establishments, especially Les Troisgros, often stay at a hotel also operated by the Troisgros family.

At first, we see how greens and vegetables are chosen. But soon enough the conversation shifts to fish: trout, pike and perch. Have you had a quenelle? Could you master a mousseline? In addition to the produce market, we visit a fromagerie, where cheeses are made and aged, a vineyard and a cattle ranch, where we learn about the latest techniques for raising plants and animals in organic, renewable and humane ways. Throughout the film, Wiseman will divide his time between the restaurant and its grounds and the nearby farms and markets where the food is examined and procured.

In the kitchen, a young chef steps away to read a recipe out of Escoffier’s “Le Guide Culinaire.” We watch as artichokes and asparagus are trimmed, cockles sorted, crayfish corralled. We hear about Cesar’s design for a completely open kitchen, divided between hot and cold, where everything from meat and fish to breads, cakes and pastries can be made. Brains and other sweetbreads are on the menu as are humble hams and pigs’ feet. Efficiency, order and cleanliness reign supreme. No one is screaming or having a meltdown. Gordon Ramsay would not feel at home here.

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Bottles of La Tache and Puligny-Montrachet might be had for a breathtaking 10,000 euros or more. Assistants and servers are sent to nearby woods to collect flowers to decorate the plates. A farmer explains how his cattle are directed in the field using movable fences to feed evenly on the grass. Hams are smoked, bread baked. The entire, precision operation suggests something military. Menus are discussed and written. A cheesemonger rattles off the names of 30 varieties on his tray.

For all of his career, Wiseman has been pulling aside the curtain on different institutions: a public hospital (“Titicut Follies”), library (“Ex Libris”), park (“Central Park”), racetrack “Racetrack”), zoo (“Zoo”) and ballet troupe (“La Danse”). Here, he gives us a restaurant surpassing in exclusivity the one in the recent (and not very good) foodie satire “The Menu” with Ralph Fiennes and Anya Taylor-Joy. Le Bois sans Feiulles (The Forest Without Leaves) is a restaurant for the 1%. It is a family restaurant, if your family’s name is Bezos, a subject Wiseman strangely does not address.

Toward the end, we visit a humble shepherd-farmer who supplies the restaurant with goat cheese and identifies his goats by name. A vineyard owner speaks passionately about plants that do not “compete” with the vines. Beekeepers proffer honey. Back at the restaurant, tablecloths are ironed; vases placed on tables, a helicopter lands on a patch of grass outside. We visit a wine cellar full of treasures. Cesar mingles with his guests. How many more helicopters can be expected?

(“Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros” contains obscenely expensive food and drink)

“Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros”

Not Rated. In French with subtitles. At the Coolidge Corner Theater

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Grade: A-

 

A dish is plated in a scene from “Les Menus Plaisirs Les Troisgrois.” (Photo Zipporah Films)



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Boston, MA

At midseason, the Boston Red Sox are offering something different this year — hope

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At midseason, the Boston Red Sox are offering something different this year — hope


BOSTON — The Red Sox ended the season’s first half with a thud.

All isn’t lost, of course. Boston shouldn’t be judged solely on one rancid sample against the San Diego Padres.

A perfect June weather night at Fenway Park was about the only highlight after the top of the fifth inning on Friday. San Diego unleashed a stunning barrage to key a 9-2 victory. Each of the first nine Padres who came to the plate reached safely and scored.

There have been more good evenings than bad for the Red Sox to this point. They sat at 43-38 entering Saturday’s second half — a far cry from any last-place predictions in the American League East. Boston is also within striking distance of a wildcard berth, entering the day just a half game behind the Kansas City Royals for the third spot.

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“We’re in the mix to make it to the playoffs,” Red Sox manager Alex Cora said. “We have a good baseball team that can do a lot of good things.

“There’s other stuff where we have to get better, but at the same time I’m very pleased with the way we went about our business in the first part of the season and the way some guys progressed.”

More: New team, new role, new home — how Hendricken alum Michael King has handled it all

One of the standouts from the last time Boston reached the postseason was in the building. Xander Bogaerts was honored with a video tribute after the first inning and treated to a warm standing ovation. The former Red Sox shortstop stepped out of the visiting dugout and tipped his cap, currently an injured member of the Padres offering thanks to his former home.

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Bogaerts delivered one of the last truly worthwhile swings this ballpark has seen in recent years. His two-run homer against Gerrit Cole in the 2021 wildcard matchup sent an electric shock through the grandstands. The Red Sox dismissed the New York Yankees, blitzed the Tampa Bay Rays and had the Houston Astros on the ropes before falling in the A.L. Championship Series.

Since then? Disappointment. Underperformance on the field and a lack of boldness in the front office. John Henry’s organizational pivot to less aggressiveness in free agency and former chief baseball officer Chaim Bloom’s inability to chart a definitive course at the last two trade deadlines has created festering frustration here.

How will Craig Breslow fare a month from now? The crowd on this particular night was short of a sellout, and more than a few San Diego fans were able to purchase their tickets of choice in the field boxes. It’s a scene that’s repeated itself when the Yankees, Chicago Cubs, Philadelphia Phillies or any other big-market franchise has visited town, and it needs to be stopped.

More: These overachieving Red Sox are making a fan out of John Rooke. How about you?

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That only happens by creating a real reason to believe in the home team. Per Cot’s Contracts, Breslow has more than $19 million in available Competitive Balance Tax space before he incurs any penalties. Boston should have the finances and prospect capital to buy if it makes the long-overdue choice to do so.

“We’ve shown we can play really good baseball,” Red Sox catcher Connor Wong said. “We’ve got to keep defending and keep pushing.

“It’s a long season. Anything can happen.”

Masataka Yoshida and Rob Refsnyder are the only current position players seeing regular time who are over 30 years old. A tight race into September and October could be invaluable for further developing younger options like Wong, Jarren Duran, David Hamilton, Ceddanne Rafaela, Wilyer Abreu and others. Refusing to support them and selling off pieces — with Cora already in the last year of his contract, no less — would send a rather different, more discouraging message.

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Nick Pivetta cruised through his first four innings before getting crunched in the fifth. His earned-run average is up to 4.52, and that’s all too common in a rotation that’s taking on a bit of water. Brayan Bello has rocketed to a 5.55 ERA in what to this point has been a disappointing 2024 season and Kutter Crawford seems to have hit a wall — a 5.97 ERA in his last six starts and a 4.54 ERA through his last 12.

That’s obviously a primary area the Red Sox should look to reinforce. A right-handed bat to offer some balance in the lineup wouldn’t hurt either. As for shedding veteran pieces like Pivetta, Kenley Jansen, Chris Martin and Tyler O’Neill, consider this: you’re not losing them for “nothing” in free agency if they can somehow help you reestablish credibility as a franchise genuinely trying to play deep into the fall every year.

“I do believe — I truly believe — there are going to be meaningful games here in September,” Cora said.

Let’s hope. We’ve waited long enough. One bad night shouldn’t spoil the hope of what could be to come over the next month — and, maybe, the next four.

bkoch@providencejournal.com

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On X: @BillKoch



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Boston, MA

23-year-old man arrested in connection to bar fire in Boston’s Mission Hill neighborhood

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23-year-old man arrested in connection to bar fire in Boston’s Mission Hill neighborhood


BOSTON – A man has been arrested in connection to a bar fire at the Squealing Pig in Boston’s Mission Hill neighborhood.

Prasshida Baruwal, 23, of Everett, is accused of setting the bar on fire on Tuesday morning. He is charged with arson, breaking and entering at nighttime to commit a felony, destruction of personal property and more.

“I thought it was by accident,” says Boston neighbor Diamond Nichols. “Honestly, it does make me a little nervous.”

Witnesses watch as bar is set on fire

Police said that witnesses on the scene spotted the suspect outside of the bar, breaking glass and taking videos of Baruwal dressed in black. One witness spotted the suspect dropping what they thought was a lit napkin before the bar exploded into flames, and surveillance video confirmed the action.

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The Boston Fire Department was able to control the flames, but not before the bar was severely damaged and several nearby cars were melted.

“That’s scary. That is scary,” says Cameron Kuck.

“Puts it into more perspective when it’s next door to you”

The area is full of college students living off-campus.

 “There are people walking around right next to and around the restaurant, so that is scary. Someone is doing something super illegal, very dangerous, and if someone gets hurt, that’s totally like a federal thing, a crime,” says Kuck, who goes to Berklee College of Music.

Neighbors are stunned and upset that their favorite bar is gone for the summer.

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“We were just talking about crime in the city. It’s all around us but obviously puts it into more perspective when it’s next door to you,” says Northeastern college student Sydney Brikhahn

“We’re going to have to hope that something like this doesn’t happen again,” says Northeastern College student Allie Ziegler.

Police are still investigating the incident.

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Celtics reportedly pick up Sam Hauser’s contract option

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Celtics reportedly pick up Sam Hauser’s contract option


The Celtics are bringing back their top bench shooter for the 2024-25 season — and, they hope, beyond.

Boston on Saturday exercised the $2.1 million team option in Sam Hauser’s contract, according to multiple reports. The Celtics also reportedly plan to begin negotiating an extension with Hauser in the coming weeks.

The Boston Globe was the first to report the team’s decision, the deadline for which was Saturday afternoon.

Hauser joined the Celtics as an undrafted rookie in 2021 and developed into a core member of Boston’s rotation. The 26-year-old Virginia product appeared in 79 games this season, setting career highs in nearly every statistical category (22.0 minutes, 9.0 points, 3.5 rebounds, 1.0 assists per game). His 42.4% 3-point shooting percentage ranked 11th in the NBA.

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Consistency was an issue for Hauser during the Celtics’ playoff run, but he rebounded from a rough Eastern Conference finals to shoot 47.8% from three in the NBA Finals (11-for-23) and deliver a few unexpected defensive highlights against Dallas Mavericks star Luka Doncic.

By picking up Hauser’s option, the Celtics will return all five starters and their top three reserves (Al Horford, Payton Pritchard and Hauser) from their title-winning roster, though starting center Kristaps Porzingis is expected to miss at least the first month of the upcoming season after undergoing leg surgery this week.

Frontcourt backups Luke Kornet, Xavier Tillman and Oshae Brissett will be unrestricted free agents, and Neemias Queta has a team option.

The Celtics added two new pieces through this week’s NBA draft, selecting Creighton wing Baylor Scheierman in the first round (No. 30 overall) and Gonzaga forward Anton Watson in the second (No. 54).

“Everybody on our roster, we love having here,” president of basketball operations Brad Stevens said Thursday in his post-draft news conference. “We’ll continue to work on filling out our roster for the upcoming season, but there’s no doubt that we’ll really value continuity of that.”

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As for whether Boston and Hauser will reach an extension agreement, Stevens declined to discuss the forward’s contract status on Thursday but said the Celtics “want Hauser to be here for a long time.”

If Hauser does not sign a long-term deal, he would become an unrestricted free agent next offseason. The same is true for starting guard Derrick White, who is eligible for a four-year extension worth up to $127 million.



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