Boston, MA
‘Menus-Plaisirs’ serves up decadence a la Wiseman
Boston-born, 94-year-old non-fiction film wizard Frederick Wiseman turns his gaze to one of the most celebrated restaurants in the world in “Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros,” and I hesitate to say that the results are delicious. Even at a feast-worthy length of 240 minutes, I remained fully engrossed in this unflinchingly exhaustive examination of the way a French restaurant that has had three Michelin stars for over 50 years operates. Anyone wondering if Wiseman made the film in order to get to eat at Le Bois sans Feiulles in France’s Loire Valley for as long as it took to make the film is not alone.
Over the course of the drama, we spend time with restaurateur-patriarch Michel Troisgros, a master of the history of the culinary arts in France and the Far East, and learn about his very high standards as he passes the baton to his son Cesar, while his younger son Leo runs another family restaurant La Colline. We also hear about a third Troisgros restaurant. Guests at these establishments, especially Les Troisgros, often stay at a hotel also operated by the Troisgros family.
At first, we see how greens and vegetables are chosen. But soon enough the conversation shifts to fish: trout, pike and perch. Have you had a quenelle? Could you master a mousseline? In addition to the produce market, we visit a fromagerie, where cheeses are made and aged, a vineyard and a cattle ranch, where we learn about the latest techniques for raising plants and animals in organic, renewable and humane ways. Throughout the film, Wiseman will divide his time between the restaurant and its grounds and the nearby farms and markets where the food is examined and procured.
In the kitchen, a young chef steps away to read a recipe out of Escoffier’s “Le Guide Culinaire.” We watch as artichokes and asparagus are trimmed, cockles sorted, crayfish corralled. We hear about Cesar’s design for a completely open kitchen, divided between hot and cold, where everything from meat and fish to breads, cakes and pastries can be made. Brains and other sweetbreads are on the menu as are humble hams and pigs’ feet. Efficiency, order and cleanliness reign supreme. No one is screaming or having a meltdown. Gordon Ramsay would not feel at home here.
Bottles of La Tache and Puligny-Montrachet might be had for a breathtaking 10,000 euros or more. Assistants and servers are sent to nearby woods to collect flowers to decorate the plates. A farmer explains how his cattle are directed in the field using movable fences to feed evenly on the grass. Hams are smoked, bread baked. The entire, precision operation suggests something military. Menus are discussed and written. A cheesemonger rattles off the names of 30 varieties on his tray.
For all of his career, Wiseman has been pulling aside the curtain on different institutions: a public hospital (“Titicut Follies”), library (“Ex Libris”), park (“Central Park”), racetrack “Racetrack”), zoo (“Zoo”) and ballet troupe (“La Danse”). Here, he gives us a restaurant surpassing in exclusivity the one in the recent (and not very good) foodie satire “The Menu” with Ralph Fiennes and Anya Taylor-Joy. Le Bois sans Feiulles (The Forest Without Leaves) is a restaurant for the 1%. It is a family restaurant, if your family’s name is Bezos, a subject Wiseman strangely does not address.
Toward the end, we visit a humble shepherd-farmer who supplies the restaurant with goat cheese and identifies his goats by name. A vineyard owner speaks passionately about plants that do not “compete” with the vines. Beekeepers proffer honey. Back at the restaurant, tablecloths are ironed; vases placed on tables, a helicopter lands on a patch of grass outside. We visit a wine cellar full of treasures. Cesar mingles with his guests. How many more helicopters can be expected?
(“Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros” contains obscenely expensive food and drink)
“Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros”
Not Rated. In French with subtitles. At the Coolidge Corner Theater
Grade: A-
Boston, MA
Boston Bruins are retiring Patrice Bergeron’s No. 37 next season
BOSTON — The Boston Bruins said Thursday they are retiring Patrice Bergeron’s No. 37 as part of a ceremony next season.
The date will be shared later, following the NHL schedule release that is expected next month.
Bergeron is set to join fellow 2011 Stanley Cup champion Zdeno Chara with his number in the rafters. Bergeron, when it happens, will be the 14th player to have his number retired by the storied franchise.
He spent his entire 19-year career in the league with the Bruins, playing 1,464 games counting the regular season and playoffs. That included the title run in 2011 and more trips to the final in ’13 and ’19.
“Patrice was the kind of rare, generational talent that every team wanted,” owner Jeremy Jacobs said in a statement. “He was a deftly skilled playmaker and the undeniable greatest defensive forward in the NHL’s history. But it was the leadership he provided on the ice and in the locker room that made him truly stand apart and an all-time legend of the Boston Bruins.”
Bergeron succeeded Chara as captain in 2020 and served three seasons in that role before retiring. He called this an honor that is difficult to put into words.
“When I arrived in Boston as an 18-year-old, I could never have imagined receiving this recognition one day,” Bergeron said. “I have always believed that any success I had was only possible because of the people around me. I was fortunate to play alongside incredible teammates, learn from outstanding coaches and staff and be supported by an organization that believed in me from the very beginning.”
Boston, MA
Brensley: Craig Ferguson is Boston Strong
Craig Ferguson set out on foot from Los Angeles with a remarkable goal: to walk 3,500 miles across America. It took him 109 days.
Last week, I had the privilege of joining him for his final steps into Boston. In those first moments after completing his journey, I asked him what the experience had been like. Without hesitation, he called it the hardest thing he had ever done.
What began as a mission to raise money for SAMH, a Scottish charity that provides mental health and social care support, became something far greater. Along the way, Craig inspired thousands of people and helped raise more than $1 million. His arrival in Boston also came amid the excitement surrounding Scotland’s appearance in the World Cup, giving his home country even more reason to celebrate.
Craig’s commitment to mental health advocacy is perhaps best expressed in his own words: “Mental health doesn’t care who you are or where you’re from. It can meet you along the road, sometimes when you least expect it.”
Those words resonate deeply with me. I was raised by a mother who faced significant mental health challenges, and I know firsthand how important support systems can be for individuals and families. Organizations like SAMH provide hope when people need it most. Equally important is continuing to normalize conversations about mental health and recognizing that it is a health issue that touches every community and every walk of life.
There are countless routes Craig could have taken and many cities where he could have chosen to conclude this extraordinary journey. The fact that he finished in Boston is something we should be proud of.
Boston has always been a city defined by resilience, compassion, and perseverance. Those qualities are why “Boston Strong” means so much to so many people. Craig Ferguson may be Scottish by birth, but through his determination, his generosity, and his commitment to helping others, he has embodied that spirit.
As we welcome him to our beautiful and sports-loving city, we thank him for reminding us that even the longest journeys begin with a single step, and that no one should have to walk through life’s struggles alone.
Craig Ferguson is Boston Strong.
Anne Brensley is the Republican-endorsed candidate for Lieutenant Governor of Massachusetts.
Boston, MA
Boston braces for Sail250: 60 tall ships and 4 million visitors – The Boston Globe
“Leave your car at home, and take the T,” said Deirdre Habershaw, MBTA’s deputy chief operating officer, at a press conference held at Seaport.
Six more tall ships are expected than the number that came during the last Tall Sail Boston event in June 2017. Boston is the tour’s last port after it stops at New Orleans, Norfolk, Baltimore, and New York City.
Organizers expect the visitors to gather along the waterfront throughout the week, but anticipate the highest number on July 11 for the Parade of Sail, the event’s centerpiece.
During it, dozens of vessels enter Boston Harbor in a coordinated procession. The USS Constitution, the world’s oldest commissioned warship still afloat, and the U.S Coast Guard’s Eagle, the training vessel used to train future Coast Guard officers, will lead the fleet. They’ll be followed by ships representing countries like Argentina, Colombia, India, Italy, Portugal, and Uruguay, celebrating the country’s 250th anniversary by making it a global gathering.
Along with increased subway service that day, there will also be shuttle connections linking major lines to waterfront access points, transit officials said. Dedicated shuttle services will be provided from the Red Line’s JFK/UMass station to the Castle Island parking lot and from the Orange Line’s Sullivan station to the Charlestown Navy Yard.
“On July 11, all ferries will be suspended to accommodate the security infrastructure within the harbor,” Habershaw said. “All ferry routes will operate on normal schedules from July 12 through the 16th.”
A key infrastructure addition this year is the deployment of temporary dock extensions at multiple waterfront points, including near the courthouse dock area and behind Leader Bank Pavilion.
“We’re putting a large system to extend it to accommodate more tall ships in the harbor,” said David Choate, director of operations of Sail Boston, adding that the construction of said docks starts next week.
Boston Police Superintendent Lanita Cullinane said that all laws will be enforced throughout the event, including bans on open containers, public alcohol consumption, marijuana use, drones, and oversized bags in viewing areas.
Sail Boston will be on both land and at sea, so security personnel will include city and state officers, as well as the Boston Police Department’s harbor unit.
“There’s going to be some things that we have to do to cater it to the different areas where the events are taking place,” Cullinane said during an interview after the conference.
Nick Gove, chief of streets for the City of Boston, said during the event that there will be temporary road closures along the waterfront in the North End, South Boston, East Boston, and the Navy Yard in Charlestown. He recommended that residents who live near the waterfront review the closures on event days.
“Public works and transportation team will provide supplemental sanitation services, parking enforcement, and traffic management to help keep our streets clean, safe, and efficient,” Gove said.
This year, a major digital component will support crowd control: a dedicated mobile application that will provide real-time updates on ship locations, boarding schedules, transit conditions, and crowd density indicators. The app went live on Wednesday.
“If we know, for example, Commonwealth Pier is very crowded, but Charlestown Navy Yard is not, we would put that sort of public-facing information up to direct people where they don’t have to wait,” Choate said during an interview.

Visitors will have the opportunity to tour many of the vessels for free during the week, although boarding procedures and availability will vary by ship. Many of the larger vessels will dock in and around the Seaport, including near Fan Pier and the Boston Fish Pier, making the neighborhood the center of activity during the celebration.
“We are prepared for all of the events that are taking place over the summer,” Cullinane said. “And we’ll continue to operate as we have been.”
Aayushi Datta can be reached at aayushi.datta@globe.com.
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