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SoCal's forgotten hot springs oasis is finally reopening — with 50 geothermal pools

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SoCal's forgotten hot springs oasis is finally reopening — with 50 geothermal pools

Murrieta Hot Springs, a palm-shaded haven of steaming streams and coveted mud just north of Temecula, has been home to a Christian Bible college, a TV-free vegetarian commune and a popular mostly Jewish resort. Now comes a new chapter that will open the grounds and waters to the public for the first time in nearly 30 years.

On Feb. 1, the property will open as a wellness resort and hotel, offering spa services, all sorts of soaking, 174 hotel rooms and several buildings that date back to the early 20th century. Room rates will start at $399, day passes at $89 per adult.

From 1995 until 2022, the property housed the Calvary Chapel Bible College and Conference Center, which was closed to the public and made only limited use of the waters that bubble up from below. (The bathhouse was converted into a library.)

About two years ago, the Texas-based Olympus Real Estate Group laid out $50 million for the property, then set about spending another $50 million to restore and rethink the campus.

Now the 46-acre site, which includes several historic buildings, is all about water again. The resort includes more than 50 pools, tubs and other water features, including a lake that serves as the hub of the compound.

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Sun-dappled water of a hot tub at Murrieta Hot Springs Resort.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

The adults-only Oasis swimming pool at Murrieta Hot Springs Resort. Other family-friendly pools are located on the property.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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The bathhouse is once again a bathhouse. It neighbors the resort’s Spanish Revival Stone Lodge, which dates to 1926, and the Spanish-style Monterrey Building, which went up incrementally between 1915 and 1925. Most of the guest rooms date to the 1960s and have been redone in a minimalist style with muted tones.

The property also includes the casual Cafe Azuli, Brew 1902 coffee shop, a Dynamic Fitness center, gazebo and lounge bars, a mud loft (with clay trucked in from the Mojave Desert) and a sauna with panoramic views. A signature upscale restaurant, Talia Kitchen, is due to open in spring. A wine bar, Novel, is due to open later in the year.

Steam rises from the geothermal water flowing through Murrieta Hot Springs Resort.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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The resort’s waters — which visitors drank in its early years — are said to include sulfate, chloride, boron, calcium, lithium, potassium, sodium, silica and bicarbonate.

“Our water comes out of the ground at about 125-130 degrees, depending,” said Dr. Marcus Coplin, the resort’s medical director, noting that the water is cooled to 104 degrees or less before guests bathe. The property also includes several cold-plunge pools whose water is 54 degrees or less. According to the resort’s promotional materials, the waters “enhance circulation, reduce inflammation, uplift mood, and support cellular health.”

“Without being clinical,” Coplin said during a pre-opening tour, “we want to create a data-informed, science-informed approach to health and wellness.”

A decorative pillar outside what will become the bathhouse at Murrieta Hot Springs Resort. (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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Murrieta Hot Springs Resort is a geothermal spa that goes back more than a century. (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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A view of the largest pool at Murietta Hot Springs Resort.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

The springs first gained popularity as a commercial venture in 1902 under the ownership of German immigrant Fritz Guenther. In 1911, the minor league Los Angeles Angels held their spring training at the hot springs.

Over time, a hotel and other amenities grew, including live music and miniature golf. In a video produced by members of Calvary Chapel, Guenther family members and other longtime locals recalled that the resort was especially popular among Jewish families, perhaps because they were familiar with European traditions of communal bathing.

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The Jewish Museum of the American West has called Murrieta “the Catskills of Southern California,” describing it as a favorite spot of Jewish families in the first half of the 20th century, when many of its Spanish Revival buildings were decorated with six-sided stars.

A Hillside suite at Murrieta Hot Springs Resort which will have a private pool. (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

The view through patterned glass from the bathhouse under construction at Murrieta Hot Springs Resort. (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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In the late 1960s, the Guenther family sold the resort (then 500 acres) to San Diego attorney Irving Kahn, a transaction that led to an era of widely varied and sometimes controversial uses, including a cancer clinic whose alternative therapies were publicly discredited.

In the 1980s, a New Age health group called Alive Polarity bought the resort and operated it for several years as a vegetarian community free of alcohol, tobacco, television and telephones. Later came a bar called Shakespeare’s Pub.

By 1990s, when Calvary Chapel of Costa Mesa bought it, the core property has been reduced to less than 50 acres, much of which had fallen into dilapidation.

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The church renovated the property up as a college and conference center for other megachurches, a formula that worked well until enrollment fell and the onset of the pandemic put public gatherings on hold. The Bible college has relocated to Twin Peaks in the San Bernardino Mountains.

For the Olympus Real Estate Group’s managing director, David Dronet, Murrieta is the second step in a strategic campaign that began with the 2018 purchase of The Springs Resort in Pagosa Springs, Colo., another geothermally active, wellness-emphasizing hospitality business. To manage Murrieta, Olympus has hired Remington Hospitality, which runs scores of lodgings and restaurants nationwide.

The Stone Lodge suites at Murrieta Hot Springs Resort.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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Murrieta Hot Springs Resort is a geothermal spa that goes back more than a century.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Whatever promotions the new management pursues, it will tough to match the song about the hot springs that entertainer Mickey Katz used to sing in the 1950s. Rich in Yiddish phrases, written by Grace Eppy and Nat Farber, and rediscovered by Jewish Museum of the American West curator Jonathan Friedmann, it included these lyrics:

In Murietta Hot Springs/ Like cowboys without ferd [horses]/ Zey lign [they lie] in the mud baths/ Mitn kop in drerd [with their head in the earth].

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Trump floats MAGA rally instead of concert after musicians drop out of Freedom 250

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Trump floats MAGA rally instead of concert after musicians drop out of Freedom 250

President Trump speaks at the Memorial Amphitheater in Arlington National Cemetery on May 25 in Arlington, Va.

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Alex Brandon/AP

President Trump has suggested that an event celebrating America’s 250 birthday should instead be a Make America Great Again rally after many of the artists who were announced to perform dropped out.

The Great American State Fair, which is set to begin on June 25 on the National Mall, had featured artists such as Martina McBride, Morris Day and the Time, The Commodores and Poison’s Bret Michaels — who have all since withdrawn from the lineup.

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McBride explained why she decided to not to be part of the fair, writing in a social media post she was presented with an opportunity to perform at “a nonpartisan event but that turned out to be misleading.”

“In my mind I thought this was a great way to celebrate the states and also bring people together in the way that only music can. I saw it as just a bigger version of so many state fairs I have performed at over the years, celebrating community and what makes each state special,” McBride wrote in the post on Thursday night. “Yesterday things started changing and what we were told is, in fact, not what is happening.”

Some artists plan to still perform at the fair. Vanilla Ice said he would not drop out of the event, writing on social media, “This is not a political platform. This is celebrating America’s birthday.”

In a social media post on Saturday, Trump called the performers who backed away from the event “Third Rate” and said he will give a speech that will rally the U.S. “forward like I have done ever since being President!” Later on Saturday, Trump wrote in another social media post that the event should be canceled and replaced with a rally.

“We should have a giant MAKE AMERICA GREAT AGAIN RALLY, for 250, instead of having overpriced singers, who nobody wants to hear, whose music is boring, and yet who do nothing but complain,” Trump wrote.

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The fair is being organized by Freedom 250, a public-private group working with the White House to organize the celebration of America’s 250 birthday. The Trump-backed celebrations have drawn criticism and concern that it is centered around himself instead of the country.

Democratic lawmakers and watchdog organizations, such as Citizens for Responsibility and Ethics in Washington, have also questioned where private donations for the 250th celebrations are coming from.

Interior Secretary Doug Burgum, who is involved with planning the celebration, on Sunday said the events are “nonpartisan.”

“It’s not about the transparency of the donors,” Burgum said on CNN’s State of the Union when asked if the donations should become public. “This is about Americans celebrating the 250th anniversary.”

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Sunday Puzzle: ‘Fair’ Game

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Sunday Puzzle: ‘Fair’ Game

On-air challenge

Every answer is a word, name, or a familiar phrase in which the first syllable is pronounced “fair” — in any spelling. (Ex. Locale for an exhibition –> FAIRGROUND)

1. Long stretch on a golf course
2. Alternative to Celsius in temperatures
3. Alaska city just south of the Arctic Circle
4. Boat that transports passengers across a river or body of water
5. Monarch in ancient Egypt
6. Medical term for the throat
7. Revolving ride at an amusement park
8. “Cinderella” or “Hansel and Gretel”
9. Small, domesticated animal related to the European polecat
10. Historical Jewish sect in the Gospels and Acts of the Apostles
11. County of northern Virginia that’s adjacent to Washington, D.C.
12. Actress Morgan
13. Louis who leads the Nation of Islam
14. Chemical secreted by the body that’s a stumulant to others
15. Fond goodbye

Last week’s challenge

This week’s challenge comes from Jim Francis, of Kirkland, Wash. Think of a famous female singer (8,4). The first syllable of her first name, the second syllable of her first name backward, and last name forward again are all verbs associated with human desire. Who is this singer?

Challenge answer

Courtney Love

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Winner

Larry Birkenmeyer of Glenview, Illinois

This week’s challenge

This week’s challenge comes from Mike Reiss, a longtime writer and showrunner for “The Simpsons.” Name a classic song with a two-word title. Drop the first letter. Add an R after the new first letter. The result will be the names of two countries one after the other. What song is this?

If you know the answer to the challenge, submit it below by Thursday, June 4 at 3 p.m. ET. Listeners whose answers are selected win a chance to play the on-air puzzle.

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The ‘Hacks’ finale ties a melodramatic bow onto a beloved series

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The ‘Hacks’ finale ties a melodramatic bow onto a beloved series

Jean Smart.

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This review of the Hacks series finale includes spoilers for the episode. 

It also discusses suicide.

The truth — my truth — about the fifth and final season of HBO Max’s Hacks is that I would have left it at the end of the penultimate episode last week. Deborah’s show in Central Park, improvised after she was thwarted in her efforts to play Madison Square Garden, was a triumph. The story has always been, after all, about Deborah and Ava together, outdoing the expectations other people have for them and outfoxing the people who try to thwart them. So being embraced by a huge outdoor crowd, surrounded by people who love them, was just the right ending. Not too heavy for a comedy, not too idealized and neat.

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In this week’s series finale, you get a much more melodramatic story. The earlier hints about Deborah’s health problems mature into the news that she has cancer, but she has decided to forgo treatment and travel to Switzerland to undergo an assisted suicide. She also wants Ava to go with her. Ava is furious and panicked, wanting Deborah to choose differently, but Deborah’s mind is made up. In the end, encouraged by Jimmy to respect Deborah’s decision, Ava appears at the airport, and the two go to Paris for a final vacation before they travel on to Zurich. They laugh and walk, and Deborah gives Ava her first taste of Parisian bread. They shop for skin care, they go to the Louvre (which Deborah buys out just for them), and they debate Van Gogh. They even go dancing.

Perhaps I was naive to never believe the show was going to end with Deborah’s suicide. Perhaps it might have ended that way. But it doesn’t. (Here, I am tempted to say, “Of course it doesn’t.”) After Ava fights Deborah, concedes, fights her again, and concedes again, Deborah suddenly (very suddenly) realizes she still likes writing jokes, and she decides to write a new hour with Ava and begin cancer treatment instead of going to Zurich and ending her life. “Happy Days Are Here Again” plays as they walk together in Paris, and then later in Vegas. The end.

I’ve always been of two minds about Hacks: the scene-level writing is impeccable, the jokes have a high hit rate, and the performances are utterly singular, but I’ve always found the plot choices frustrating. By Season 4, the basic story was repeating over and over (they feud; they make up; they feud; they make up). But even then, the jokes were still working, and the performances were exceptional.

Similarly, in this finale, the scenes in Paris are not only great to look at; they are very funny and wildly charming. Even in a short, slapstick bit where Deborah cracks herself up by making Ava try to learn stick shift driving a boxy little rental car through a roundabout, the kicker line from Ava, “Why am I in the rough draft of a car?” is just a straight-up great line. These are gorgeous scenes between the actresses (who are co-leads and always have been; do not let the Emmys deceive you), and they are a great gift to the many people who have loved Hacks over its very successful run. These characters are soul mates, and it is delightful seeing them, once and for all, on the same side.

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But the flip side is this: When you incorporate a story about illness and death, especially very late in a show’s run, and especially if it resolves abruptly, it can seem maudlin or manipulative. Death is just a big bat to swing in a comedy series, and there’s a good argument that Hacks just didn’t need it. There is plenty of emotional heft in the history of Deborah and Ava, and in the stories of their careers, without a death scare. And because it was a death scare, some things got awkward, like … Why did D.J., Deborah’s daughter, play no role in any of this? Certainly, Deborah might not want to tell her, but when begging Deborah not to die and pulling out all the stops, would Ava not have talked about her family? Might “please don’t leave me,” touching as it was, have been accompanied by “or your daughter”?

It’s not that the Hacks finale was bad, not by a longshot. (Though the Jimmy/Kayla triumph where they re-enter Latitude to literal applause was perhaps a bit pat.) It’s the capper to a very successful and very good show, which has been richly rewarded with awards and seems highly likely to rack up a few more this fall. But it did, in the end, feel a bit like a hat on a hat, like they didn’t quite trust what’s been built between those two characters enough to pack a wallop without the Grim Reaper stalking the episode. But perhaps it would not have been a Deborah Vance production if it weren’t just a bit over the top.

If you or someone you know may be considering suicide or is in crisis, call or text 9 8 8 to reach the Suicide & Crisis Lifeline.

This piece also appears in NPR’s Pop Culture Happy Hour newsletter. Sign up for the newsletter so you don’t miss the next one, plus get weekly recommendations about what’s making us happy.

Listen to Pop Culture Happy Hour on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.

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