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Jess Mori’s style philosophy? Always have “an element of discomfort”

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Jess Mori’s style philosophy? Always have “an element of discomfort”

Jess wears Hellstar shirt, Brain Dead pants, Prada shoes, Heaven by Marc Jacobs bag.

(Jennelle Fong / For the Times)

Wearing a knit football jersey and a knowing smile, Jess Mori holds a lemon out to the camera. The backyard of her Silver Lake abode overlooks a tranquil Eastside on a Friday afternoon. At this elevation, there’s nothing to hear but birds and SZA playing through the portable speaker off in the grass. Mori breaks her pose to pick another lemon, which she insists actually smells. The shoot is enveloped in a fragrance as sweetly serious as Mori herself, who immediately gets L.A.’s love for the high-low — aesthetically and geographically — even though she’s just arrived.

A Vancouver native, Mori’s recent landing in L.A. is a new beginning in a career that has seen many lives. She recounts her experiences as a fashion illustrator, designer, creative writer and copywriter. “There was this funny girl who worked at this cafe under the ad agency I worked for. Every time I came in, she’d be like, ‘Do a spin for me! Let me see your outfit!’ To the point where I’d be like, ‘I don’t work in fashion!’ But in an office space it does stand out if you wear anything remotely interesting.” Mori eventually took these encounters as a sign to quit her job and pursue her first love, moving to New York to ascend the proverbial ladder by interning and assisting stylists. Fast forward: Mori’s roster now includes Sean Paul, Salem Mitchell, Savannah Ré, Nike and Adidas, to name a few.

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Like the knit jersey she wears, Mori’s thesis is all about placing the familiar in an unfamiliar context and seeing what happens. She describes her style philosophy as always having “an element of discomfort.” Otherwise, she explains, “you’re doing something super, super safe. It’s neither good nor bad. And I think that’s the worst it can be: if nobody has anything to say about it. I’ll take polar opposites versus nothing. Neutral is the worst.”

Mori is all about placing the familiar in an unfamiliar context and seeing what happens.

(Jennelle Fong/For the Times)

Alyson Zetta Williams: What is the first thing you address when styling yourself and others?

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Jess Mori: When it comes to my own fashion, I like things that catch my eye as a statement piece. I like for things to have several lives in my closet. So even if it does have a standout quality, I just want to be so inspired by the piece that I can reinterpret it in multiple ways. It must be comfy, because — and probably every stylist says this — we’re always on the move. You’re never one temperature, you’re always hot, you’re always lifting things, so it’s important to be in layers.

I really believe that everybody has a certain DNA when it comes to their personality and how they dress themselves. I see everyone’s personality on a spectrum. And it’s exciting how far we can push that scale to the right or left. We always talk about resting bitch face. But it’s like, what’s your resting style? What is zero on the scale? Then, how do we dial it up or down?

AZW: You just moved to L.A. from Vancouver about a month ago. Are there any immediate or unexpected sources of inspiration that you’ve encountered since moving here?

JM: I love the idea that L.A. is this huge city, but you’re always connected to nature. There are so many plants and places to walk and hike and kind of escape to. In L.A. you already have the best backdrop for whatever you’re doing and it’s inspiring to see all the different cultures and neighborhoods. Like, this is my first time ever seeing a Thai Town or Filipinotown. I like how all these neighborhoods have their own distinct style culture. I love that you can find so many pockets of inspiration in one place.

Everybody around you is always doing something, always hustling. In order to really live this lifestyle, it helps to have other people who are doing it alongside you so that you don’t give up every time you want to. That is probably the most inspiring thing about L.A. — that you never feel like you’re doing it alone.

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Jess wears Golf Wang sweater, Nike pants, Stugazi necklace, ANY7 hat, Zara shoes.

(Jennelle Fong/For the Times)

AZW: In your work, there’s a recurring juxtaposition between athletic utility and spontaneous glamour, often within the same look. Is your work more concerned with making sporty glam, or making glam into something sporty?

JM: I’ve always had this funny relationship with gender when it comes to traditional clothing. I really, really struggle with some designers who, for example, won’t let you request men’s looks for a female talent. I just don’t get it, because so much is fluid. I mean, I’m wearing a men’s collection sweater right now.

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I also like to challenge the boundaries of what is high fashion, what’s luxury, what it means to be black-tie. If you tell me that something has to look elegant, does it always have to mean wearing a dress? When I’m styling, I extract all these rules about what it means to be elevated because I think that you can make anything elevated. You can make anything into a red carpet vibe.

I don’t like the term “streetwear.” But I do like taking [streetwear] and blending it with high-fashion brands and materials. I just like the clash. And that’s when I feel the happiest — when things are arguing with each other.

AZW: I’ve never heard someone say they don’t like the term “streetwear.”

JM: I was having this conversation with an Uber driver the other day, because he was telling me that he designs bomber jackets. And he was like, “Oh, I just do urban stuff, though.” And I was like, “Well, don’t describe your stuff like that, because they’ll try to put you in a box.” But what is urban? Urban is moving the culture, urban is at the forefront of so much fashion and it’s on the runway at Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton. All these people are using streetwear in the majority of their collections. It’s about removing that stigma of “Oh, it’s just urban” or “It’s just streetwear, it’s just sportswear,” because it can all live together.

Jess wears Nahmias sweater, JW Anderson pants, Adidas shoes, Vitaly necklace.

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Jess wears Urban Renewal sweater, 1/OFF Paris top, Re/Done skirt, Nike shoes.

(Jennelle Fong/For the Times)

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AZW: As we approach spring, how is your relationship to these concepts of utility and glam shifting?

JM: Spring is a great season to explore color. I love a uniform dress code, where you sort of have your key pieces as talking points, conversation starters. Spring is so unpredictable. You never know how many days of rain or sun you’re gonna get. I think it’s always good to dress in layers, and have your unexpected pieces but mix them with your basic uniform, which might be something like a nice blazer and well-fitted jeans.

Spring and fall, I love those two seasons the most because you have the most to play with. Summers are very limiting because you’re really restricted to whatever the lightest layer on your body could be. But spring is the best time to play and really clash, bringing unlike things together. Like pairing a cotton knit cardigan with a lighter skirt. It’s a time when juxtapositions are the way to go.

AZW: In a Jess Mori world, what would spring style look like?

JM: As you’ve gathered now from this interview, I’m very contradictory in all my choices. I just want to see people playing with color more. I just came back from New York and saw a lot of black everywhere.

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L.A. has so much vintage and handmade stuff that I think if you’re trying to carve out something unique to you, there’s nothing better than going into thrift stores and finding something that you know you’ll be the only one wearing. Spring is a good time to be on the hunt for special pieces.

Right now, I really love football jerseys and knitwear. I’d love to see more granny-like knitwear go mainstream, like what Sandy Liang’s done. I love seeing people play with bows and then be wearing a utility work pant, or the juxtaposition of somebody wearing a hoodie with a miniskirt.

Jess wears Chopova Lowena hoodie, Zara skirt, Adidas shoes.

(Jennelle Fong/For the Times)

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AZW: When you style yourself, where do you add those utility and/or glam elements?

JM: Shoes and jewelry are usually the places where I express glam the most. Jewelry and shoes are probably where I will spend extra.

And then utility … I’ve never owned more than probably two pairs of jeans at once. I don’t love tight-fitting pants. So once I find a good jean, I either get a size bigger and then have it tailored to the correct size, or vice versa. I find utility in jackets, which are always good layering pieces. Utility is very often found in my bags. Prada’s nylon collection is the best because you can’t stain it. I always have to have a huge bag. So I’m never too far away from a huge tote bag with an organizer inside. I have a Gucci backpack with the perfect pocket for receipts. I can’t do these tiny Polly Pocket purses people are carrying around. I found the best $30 sling bag, and I bought three of them, one in each color because they were so good for sets or just everyday life. They have, like, 42 pockets all over the place. Pockets are always a utility trick.

I love using my Korean and Japanese heritage as a backdrop. I’m naturally drawn to silhouettes like Yohji Yamamoto’s, or Sandy Liang’s, or Andersson Bell’s. They speak to what we were talking about before with fluidity, these designers are fluid with their shapes. So you’ll never feel too feminine or masculine. It’s a really nice balance of both worlds.

Alyson Zetta Williams is an L.A.-based writer whose work has appeared in i-D, NYLON, Office Magazine, Rookie Mag and more. Her substack is sorry4444.substack.com.

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4 ways to design a dreamy summer, according to a happiness expert

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4 ways to design a dreamy summer, according to a happiness expert

Denis Novikov/Getty Images

I tend to romanticize summer. The movies and TV shows I grew up with made me think that the season was about adventure and big-time transformation.

I imagined myself building a tight-knit friend group and getting out of a pickle together, like in The Sandlot or Camp Nowhere. Or traveling across the world, say, to Greece, like Lena Kaligaris, a character in The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants, having a whirlwind summer romance and returning an entirely different person.

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I’ve never actually had a summer like that.

Even when your expectations are more modest than mine, “so often, the summer just flies by, and we haven’t taken the picnics or gone for the day trip or whatever it was that we thought we were gonna do,” says happiness expert Gretchen Rubin.

Rubin, author of The Happiness Project and host of the podcast Happier With Gretchen Rubin, has been sharing ideas on social media about how to make the season more memorable and satisfying.

She walks through four exercises to help you get what you want — and more — out of the season. Print out our worksheet here, fill it out and stick it on your fridge to keep you accountable. Or take a screenshot and post it to Instagram (don’t forget to tag @NPRLifeKit!).

🍑 Give your summer a theme

Pick a single word or phrase that you want to embrace this season — something that captures the feeling you want to have over the next few months.

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“My theme for the summer is ‘ketchup,’” Rubin says. “It has a kind of a summer feeling, because you think of putting ketchup on your burger.”

“It’s a metaphor,” she says. It means to look for “whatever I could add [this season] to make something elevated and more fun.”

Meanwhile, my theme word this summer is “juice.” I no longer think that I need to travel far or completely transform to have a delicious summer. I just need to take advantage of the abundance that the season offers: ripe peaches and tomatoes, juicy softball pitches and the opportunity to feel juicy in my body when I wear a bathing suit.

My Dream Summer worksheet to print.

Print out our worksheet here, fill it out and stick it on your fridge to keep you accountable. Or take a screenshot and post it to Instagram (don’t forget to tag @NPRLifeKit!).

Malaka Gharib/NPR


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🪣 Create a summer bucket list

What do you want to do this summer? On my bucket list: ride the Ferris wheel at a summer fair, have more barbecues at my parents’ house and see the sunrise at least once.

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After the Eaton fire, ‘In the Gardens of Eaton’ finds unexpected beauty in loss

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After the Eaton fire, ‘In the Gardens of Eaton’ finds unexpected beauty in loss

Night is falling in Altadena as bats circle, peacocks wail and photographer Kevin Cooley tries to capture what’s left of a tree.

Using strobes and a long exposure time to allow the maximum amount of available light to hit his lens, Cooley snags about 50 shots of the 20-foot-tall tree, which stands vigil over a street where nearly all the homes burned. The tree’s limbs were lopped off in the wake of January 2025’s Eaton fire, which ravaged Altadena and part of Pasadena, but all these months after the fire, there’s new growth on the tree.

Photographer Kevin Cooley sets up a camera to take photos for his series.

(Jason Armond / Los Angeles Times)

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Little tufts of green leaves have emerged from the raw cuts where the burned branches once were, proving the tree to be more resilient than its otherwise relatively stark exterior might suggest.

A fine art and news photographer for decades, Cooley, 51, is using pictures like the one he snapped of the tree as part of his new project, “In the Gardens of Eaton.” A collection of 6,000 photos and counting that Cooley has taken around Altadena on wild lots where homes once stood, “In the Gardens of Eaton” aims to capture bits of natural beauty that have endured despite the ravages of the fire and its aftermath.

Cooley has lived in Altadena since 2000 and he knew his neighbors well. He started working on the photo project several months after losing his home in the fire. He’d enlisted a group called Samaritan’s Purse to come up to his lot, where he’d found a metal flat file he’d used to store his photographic prints. Cooley was hopeful some had survived, but when the group popped it open, he says it quickly became clear that the burning metal had acted somewhat like an oven, burning almost everything inside to a charred crisp.

A ponytail palm on Athens Street at dusk.

A ponytail palm on Athens Street photographed for Kevin Cooley’s “In the Gardens of Eaton.”

(Kevin Cooley)

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One piece Cooley could identify, though, was a 2020 copy of Wired magazine for which he’d shot the cover. It featured a swirling plume of smoke, accompanying the story “The West’s Infernos Are Melting Our Sense of How Fire Works,” and the irony wasn’t lost on him.

“You could still kind of make out the word Wired across the top of the masthead and something about that just blew me away,” Cooley says. “It’s as if the whole thing had come full circle. I immediately wanted to photograph it in the same way I had originally photographed the smoke, which was in a studio with lighting, and I guess that made something click for me. I started feeling like there was a way to make something positive after the fire, and that’s when I started spending more time back in Altadena.”

Driving around town, looking at the lots and the wreckage, Cooley says he started to notice the bits of nature that were trying to persevere. He spotted a begonia poking through a burned fence on his neighbor’s property and snapped a photo, and soon he was accumulating more and more similar images. Cooley says if you’d told him before the fire he’d be taking so many pictures of flowers, he’d have scoffed, but now images like one he captured recently of a group of blooming roses in front of a cluster of dead vines remind him that perseverance is possible no matter the odds.

Photographer Kevin Cooley poses for a portrait in a gallery.

Cooley stands in front of some of his photos on display in a gallery in Culver City.

(Jason Armond / Los Angeles Times)

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“It’s inspiring what nature is doing up there,” Cooley says. “We live in this environment where fire is very much part of the ecology, but people’s gardens are also pushing through. Nonnative species and native species are both there. And people are planting more wildflowers, and it feels cathartic. It’s making me excited to rebuild too, because I really can’t wait to get back.”

Letizia Ragusa, an Altadena resident who lost her home, says Cooley shot her flower-filled lot without her even knowing it. Before the fire, her yard was a wonderland of 16 fruit trees, a koi pond and both a vegetable and an herb garden. All of that was lost in the blaze. As a method of coping and of shoring up the land, Ragusa enlisted a Sierra Madre company called Hardy Californians to plant a remediation seed mix across her lot.

El Molino geraniums captured for Cooley's “In the Gardens of Eaton.”

El Molino geraniums captured for Cooley’s “In the Gardens of Eaton.”

(Kevin Cooley)

Seeing the native plants and flowers begin to pop up on her lot was important, Ragusa says. She’s been living in a rental with her family since the fire, and there’s no yard or room for a garden.

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“It’s just really comforting to me to have some sense of control when everything else feels so out of control right now,” Ragusa says. “At least I have this little piece of land that I can plant things on and I know it’s what’s going to happen. It’s very predictable, and I also think it makes other people happy. I see people driving and walking by that stop to look at it. And our neighbors have all commented on it too, so that’s nice.”

The pictures Cooley took on Ragusa’s property were of rows of pink and purple native flowers and sunflowers set amid city lights and a dreamy sunset. Ragusa says they’re surreal and beautiful.

“It’s outdoor photography, but with a studio element,” she says, noting that she’s especially open to Cooley’s process because she’s an artist herself, previously producing ceramics and sculpture from a home studio that she also lost.

Cooley works sets up lights for a recent photo shoot.

Cooley works sets up lights for a recent photo shoot.

(Jason Armond / Los Angeles Times)

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While the initial photos Cooley took of her yard were from the street and her driveway, she’s since given him permission to go deeper into her lot. It’s something Cooley says is important to him because he knows firsthand that a lot of people’s lots are what he calls “hallowed ground.”

Most of the pictures Cooley has taken so far have been from a distance, though he has set up his equipment near the end of people’s driveways to get a good photo. As word of Cooley’s project has gotten around Altadena — with one resident posting a photo of him on their lot captured via trail cam to a local Facebook group, looking for more information — more and more people have expressed an openness to having him come shoot their gardens.

Honeysuckle on Via Maderas captured for “In the Gardens of Eaton.”

Honeysuckle on Via Maderas captured for “In the Gardens of Eaton.”

(Kevin Cooley)

Cooley has created a Google Form for interested residents to use and he keeps a spreadsheet of the responses in a clipboard on his car’s dashboard. When he’s at a loss for what to shoot next, he’ll glance at it, mentally mapping out addresses in his mind and looking at resident-submitted descriptions of their lots, which include phrases like “We don’t have much left, but we saved our banana plant” and “[Our house] made me into the gardener I am and I adorned her in plants.”

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Cooley says he intends to shoot photos for all the owners who have responded to his Google Form, hoping to gift them prints when the project is complete. Starting in July, he’s headed to Portugal for a six-month art fellowship, but says he plans to continue the photo project later. Cooley would also like to produce an art book of his favorite photos from the project.

He’s also aware that, in some respects, he’s up against a time limit in terms of what he can shoot. He says he spent the beginning part of the project “rushing against the Army Corps” as they were clearing lots, and now he’s trying to photograph rough-and-tumble lots full of nature before their owners level them and start to rebuild.

Calaveras Roses at nighttime.

Calaveras roses photographed for “In the Gardens of Eaton.”

(Kevin Cooley)

Sometimes, Cooley says, he had to shoot on lots where he hadn’t known the owner. When he started the project, he made an effort to track down who lived on the property before he set up his camera, but the process was surprisingly arduous and he’d often lose his intended shot as flowers or plants died or changed shape.

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“It wasn’t practical,” Cooley says. “It’s not that I didn’t want to, but I just couldn’t figure it out. I will eventually, though, and then I’ll be able to present people with a photograph when they’re back in their new homes.

“I just think Altadena is a special place,” he says on a spring day. “Six months ago, it was so depressing to come up here, but now it’s not. It’s still emotional, of course, but seeing all the rebuilding, it’s clear that people see value in being here, even now. When all this is done, if Altadena is even 50% or 75% as special as it was before, it’ll still be great.”

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Working hard as ever, Wendell Pierce aims for an annual trifecta: TV, film and theater

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Working hard as ever, Wendell Pierce aims for an annual trifecta: TV, film and theater

Wendell Pierce stars in Othello at the Shakespeare Theatre Company in Washington, D.C.

Teresa Castracane


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Teresa Castracane

Wendell Pierce says there’s a joke actors have about the five stages of their careers:

“There’s ‘Who is Wendell Pierce?’ ‘Get me Wendell Pierce.’ ‘Get me someone like Wendell Pierce.’ ‘Get me a younger Wendell Pierce.’ And then the last and final and fifth stage is: ‘Who is Wendell Pierce?’” he says.

After starring roles on The Wire and Treme, and a 2023 Tony Award nomination as the first Black actor to play Willy Loman in the Broadway revival of Death of a Salesman, Pierce is working as hard as ever. He says he’s motivated by the “ticking clock of mortality” — but also by the desire to challenge himself as an actor.

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Though many entertainers shy away from the label “journeyman actor,” Pierce proudly embraces the term: “It’s not just to go from job to job, but [to] be intentional about the jobs I take,” he says. “I try to do the trifecta, as I call it — television and film and theater — every year.”

Pierce currently plays a captain on CBS’ Elsbeth and a CIA officer in the film Tom Clancy’s Jack Ryan: Ghost War. He’s also starring in the Shakespeare Theatre Company production of Othello in Washington, D.C.

Pierce likens tackling Shakespeare to detective work. First, he says, there’s the “mining the text for all of its understanding and everything that Shakespeare is telling you not only about the characters, but how to portray them and what’s happening.”

More than that, though, there’s also the emotional aspect of connecting with the character — and the physical and vocal strength required of a three-hour production. “The challenge is physical, it’s intellectual, and it’s emotional, and that’s the great thing about doing Shakespeare, and even specifically doing Othello,” Pierce says. “I always think of these … iconic roles and large roles like the beginning of a hike up Mount Everest.”

Interview highlights

On how many years ago, jazz helped him crack the code on Shakespeare 

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I went to the club to hear Arthur Blythe, a great alto saxophonist. And he’s pretty avant-garde, but he had this really hip, swinging tune. I was humming along with it. And then he went into his solo, which was free and wild and all over the place. And I was just looking around the club, still humming the song in my head. And when he finished his solo, we were right exactly on the same note in the melody of the song.

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