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'House of the Dragon' Season 2, episode 3: Make it make sense

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'House of the Dragon' Season 2, episode 3: Make it make sense

Alicent (Olivia Cooke).

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Theo Whitman

This is a recap of the most recent episode of HBO’s House of the Dragon. It contains spoilers. That’s what a recap is.

Credits! Which bring with them two new additions to the “Die, You!” Tapestry!

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1. Li’l Dead Jaehaerys, lying in state. (That embroidery-vine that creeps along and slices him across the neck? A nice touch. A nice, mean touch.) 2. The executed ratcatchers of King’s Landing, hanging from the walls of the city.

I like this! It’s kind of like a “Previously On …,” but in mixed media (colored thread and bloodstains).

Oh and: I just now noticed how accurate the tapestry’s renderings of Aegon II and Rhaenyra are. Aegon’s sporting a haughty smirk, while Rhaenyra just looks P.O.d. Spot on!

We open on a stretch of river (the Red Fork) by an old mill where some cows are grazing on the border between the lands of two Riverlords – House Bracken and House Blackwood. A young knight, Ser Amos Bracken, is confronted by a young knight of House Blackwood. (This may or may not turn out to be Benjicot Blackwood; if so, he’ll be back.) The Brackens have declared for Team Green (Aegon II), while the Blackwoods are, fittingly enough, Team Black (Rhaenyra). They fight, and we smash cut to …

The aftermath of the first armed conflict of the Dance of the Dragons: The Battle of the Burning Mill. Ser Amos is dead, as are many soldiers and at least one cow. RIP, Ser Loin.

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On Dragonstone, they bury Arryk and Erryk side by side. Jacaerys seems concerned that Rhaenyra isn’t on a war footing yet. (This will be a theme of the episode – lots of old dudes thinking young Rhaenyra is too soft and unprepared.)

But Rhaenys the Unfailingly Awesome and Inviolately Right knows what’s up, because knowing what’s up is like her entire deal. She approaches Rhaenyra by the gravesite, having correctly sussed out that this incandescently stupid effort on Team Green’s part means that someone sensible like Otto Hightower is no longer advising Aegon. She urges Rhaenyra to reach out to Alicent one last time, to avoid the slaughter that dragon-on-dragon combat will surely bring.

In the Red Keep, Criston Cole seems to have gotten the news that Operation: Twinsies! went pear-shaped. As he walks to the Small Council he, and we, learn that Aegon has dismissed Cole’s fellow members of the Kingsguard and replaced them with the king’s loutish drinking buddies.

We also learn that Cole chooses not to wear the badge of the Hand of the King, instead pinning it to his chair at the Small Council table. I’d like to say this tells us something meaningful about Criston Cole besides “Hates to accessorize,” but I’m not sure it does.

At the Small Council, there is squabbling. There is also Aemond, seated at the Council, which is a new development. He’s fiddling with that coin he found last week. Aegon is also fiddling with something – the Valyrian steel dagger. Yes, that dagger. The one that belonged to Aegon the Conqueror, the one inscribed with the prophecy of the Prince that was Promised, the one that will, in a 150 years or so, be used by the assassin hired by Littlefinger to take out Bran Stark, the one that Arya will then use to kill Littlefinger, and the one that she will use to turn the Night King into so much shaved ice.

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Criston resolves to take a small number of soldiers out to seize the small castles near King’s Landing, add their soldiers to his number, and ultimately march on Harrenhal in the Riverlands, which has declared for Rhaenyra. It’s basically the plan he and Aemond came up with in the season premiere, with one revision: Aemond and Vhagar will not provide him air cover – they’ll stay behind to protect the city. Alicent isn’t thrilled with this plan – or with Cole.

On Dragonstone, Rhaenyra thanks Mysaria for warning the guards about the whole Arryk/Erryk michegoss. Mysaria, in return, asks to be a member of Rhaenyra’s court, because Rhaenyra showed her mercy. During this scene, the dragon Seasmoke, once ridden by Rhaenyra’s first husband Laenor, flits about in an agitated manner. If you didn’t put a pin in that plot thread last week, do it now. It’s coming back.

Pencil’s out; we’re gonna be throwing a lot of names at you

Rhaenyra meets with Rhaena. Player Scorecard Time: Rhaena is the younger of the two daughters that Daemon had with his late wife Laena; her older sister is Baela. Baela has a dragon called Moondancer, but Rhaena is dragonless.

Rhaena (Phoebe Campell) and Rhaenyra (Emma D'Arcy).

Rhaena (Phoebe Campell) and Rhaenyra (Emma D’Arcy).

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Rhaenyra instructs Rhaena to gather up Joffrey (the youngest son Rhaenyra had with Laenor, but actually Harwin Strong), and the two very young sons that Rhaenyra had with Daemon (who are named Viserys and, resigned sigh, Aegon, whom we refer to as Aegon the Baeby to distinguish him from King Aegon the Aess). Rhaenyra is sending them to stay with her cousin Lady Jeyne Arryn in the Vale for safety, and wants Rhaena to go with them. Rhaena mentions the dragons Tyraxes and Stormcloud. Fill out your dragonspotting cards: Tyraxes is a very young dragon bonded to Joffrey, Stormcloud is another hatchling bonded to Aegon the Baeby.

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Rhaenyra mentions that even the Vale isn’t safe, and that Rhaena should eventually take them across the narrow sea to the city of Pentos.

Daemon, astride Caraxes, arrives at the gloomy, cursed, rainy ruin of Harrenhal, in the Riverlands. Harrenhal is the largest castle in Westeros, but these days it’s mostly abandoned and crumbling into the mud.

He’s greeted by Ser Simon Strong and his grandsons, and behaves in his predictable, preening, mistrustful, jerkface manner. A young woman enters and casts an appraising gaze at him. He inquires about Simon’s loyalty to his great-nephew, Lord Larys Strong, who serves King Aegon the Aess. Simon dismisses this and accuses Larys of having his own brother and father killed (he’s right about that; we saw it happen last season); Simon makes it clear he’s bending the knee to Rhaenyra. Daemon clouds the issue by insisting on being referred to as “Your Grace” – which is to say, as the King, and not just the Queen’s consort. No, it’s not subtle, but it is Daemon.

Daemon’s plan is to gather up the armies of the Riverlands and garrison them at Harrenhal. To that end, he demands to speak with Lord Tully, who heads the Great House of the Riverlands.

Stately Gwayne’s manner

Criston Cole (Fabien Frankel).

Criston Cole (Fabien Frankel).

Theo Whitman/HBO

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Back at the Red Keep, Criston Cole is about to depart with five men to seize the nearby castles in King Aegon’s name. Cole’s sporting a new, battle-ready Caesar cut that does not look great on him, I guess so his war-helmet fits better? Alicent insists that her brother, Ser Gwayne Hightower, join the party. Gwayne’s got flowing, lustrous red locks, so there goes my war-helmet theory. He’s a bit of a snot to Criston, but it’s not like Criston doesn’t deserve it. Go nuts, Gwayne. Snot away. Snot like the wind.

On Dragonstone, around the Painted (But Not Actually Painted, Technically Glowing) Table, Rhaenyra’s advisors urge her to seize the moment while she’s waiting for their armies to gather – those from North, and the Vale, and the army Daemon is ostensibly building in the Riverlands – and send the dragons out to burn every Green stronghold to ash.

Rhaenyra slaps them down, knowing that their plan would escalate the war into a dragon-on-dragon conflict that no one would survive (NOTE: But that would be very very cool to look at and make for some pretty awesome television).

Gerardys (Phil Daniels), Ser Alfred Broome (Jamie Kenna), Rhaenyra (Emma D’Arcy), Baela (Bethany Antonia), Lorent Marbrand (Max Wrottesley), and Jacaerys (Harry Collett).

Gerardys (Phil Daniels), Ser Alfred Broome (Jamie Kenna), Rhaenyra (Emma D’Arcy), Baela (Bethany Antonia), Lorent Marbrand (Max Wrottesley), and Jacaerys (Harry Collett).

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On Driftmark, Rhaenys brings her man Corlys a pick-a-nick basket that, she makes clear, she didn’t make herself, because of course she didn’t, she’s Rhaenys. She broaches the possibility of replacing the current heir of Driftmark (young Joffrey, whom they know was fathered by Harwin Strong and not their son Laenor), with Rhaena, their by-blood grand-daughter. Keeping it in the family.

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Rhaena leaves for the Vale with the various moppets, the two hatchling dragons and – the show takes time to establish this, so it’ll probably be on the quiz – four dragon eggs.

At the Red Keep, Queen Helaena proves that she may be spacy, but she’s not dumb. The reason she hated having all those commoners stare at her during the funeral procession was not revulsion, but shame – she knows that their kids die in far greater numbers; why should her grief be placed above theirs? Got a good head on her shoulders, does Helaena. Pity it doesn’t run in the family.

King Aegon the Aess is being fitted for armor, as he intends to fly out on Sunfyre to help Criston Cole’s mission. Larys Strong meets with him and deftly scores a neat two-fer. 1. He convinces him that if he does leave King’s Landing, Alicent and Aemond will seize control and 2. He gets Aegon to name him Master of Whisperers.

A ruthless, cunning advisor and a ridiculously pliant king? What could go wrong?

Aegon (Tom Glynn-Carney) and Larys Strong (Matthew Needham).

Aegon (Tom Glynn-Carney) and Larys Strong (Matthew Needham).

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Guy walks into a bar …

Cut to the Street of Silk in King’s Landing, where we catch up with Ulf, the guy we saw stealing an apple and stumbling across the hanged ratcatchers last week. In an impressive tracking shot, we follow him as he enters a boisterous tavern, glad-hands a bunch of folks, sits down at a table and starts spinning a tale about his true parentage. He claims to be half-brother to both the late King Viserys and Prince Daemon and is, like Daemon, uncle to Queen Rhaenyra.

In so doing, he introduces a term we’ll probably be hearing a lot of, in the coming weeks. “Dragonseed,” i.e., an illegitimate child of Valyrian blood (read: House Targaryen and House Velaryon).

Just then Aegon the Aess enters with his repellent homies, dragging with them a squire for whom they will enjoin the services of a sex worker. Ulf’s loyalties to his kin Rheanyra dissolve like beer foam, and he leads a cheer for the king.

Another contract-fulfilling Brothel scene: Aegon stumbles across his brother Aemond with his favorite sex worker, and proceeds to be even more of a jerk to him than his baseline-level jerkiness, which is, let’s recall, a tremendous lot. This scene isn’t doing much work except to remind us that Aemond doesn’t hold his older brother Aegon the Aess in high esteem, a thing we already knew.

On Dragonstone, Rhaenyra mournfully regards some of the toys belonging to li’l Viserys and Aegon the Baeby, which are metal and sharp and pointy, because Westeros ain’t got a Consumer Product Safety Commission. She puts away Tetanus: The Playset and reads a note from Alicent that she’d previously ignored.

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On her dragon Moondancer, Baela discovers Criston Cole, Gwayne and the small company of men. (You’ll recall that Baela had been tasked by Rhaenyra to monitor the comings and goings of Team Green around King’s Landing.) She chases them into a forest and loses them.

Back on Dragonstone, the news of Cole’s mission causes Rhaenyra’s council to go back to their sword-rattling, urging her to cry havoc and let slip the dang dragons of war, already.

Daemon (Matt Smith) at Harrenhal.

Daemon (Matt Smith) at Harrenhal.

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At Harrenhal, the cursed castle is giving Daemon creepy, if a bit-on-the nose, dreams. In one, he happens upon his wife-niece Rhaenyra as she was back in the day (welcome back to the stage, Milly Alcock!). She’s stitching li’l Jaehaerys’s head back on his body.

Daemon wakes up (OR DOES HE) (no yeah just kidding, he totally does) and comes across the young woman who earlier in the evening looked him up and down like a side of Valyrian beef. She tells him he will die in this place. This is Alys Rivers. She’s a thing.

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In sept, shun

On Dragonstone, Rhaenyra tells Mysaria that she wants to speak directly with Alicent to try to prevent the war. Mysaria says that it will be easy enough to smuggle Rhaenyra into the city (wait, really?) and that Alicent only goes outside the walls of the Red Keep to light candles in the Grand Sept. If Rhaenyra were to go there, she could talk with Alicent in private, queen to dowager queen. (WAIT, REALLY?)

This seems like a dumb plan, but then, dumb plans are fast becoming Standard Operating Procedure on this show: First you had Operation: Blood and Cheese, then Operation: Twinsies! and now Operation: Two Queens Stand Before Me.

Rhaenyra and a bodyguard (Ser Steffon Darklyn, former member of the Kingsguard), dressed as members of Westeros’s holy order, make it to the Grand Sept with an ease that borders on the ludicrous but that is impossible to get truly mad about because why get hung up on realism in a show about dragons? Rhaenyra’s bodyguard waits in the courtyard (why, though?) as Rhaenyra enters the sept.

Alicent arrives with her security detachment, who also wait in the courtyard, because Alicent is not now and has never been in any danger whatsoever so it’s cool don’t think about it STOP THINKING ABOUT IT.

Alicent starts lighting candles, Rhaenyra sidles up to her and threatens her with a dagger. They proceed to have an angry, whispered discussion that nobody around them thinks is at all noteworthy because evidently Alicent has a known habit of bellying up to altars and getting into heated, hissing exchanges with the nuns. Must be Tuesday.

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Anyway, never mind, let’s just try to enjoy this moment, because here’s Olivia Cooke and Emma D’Arcy back on our screens, together, and – oh, happy, unlooked-for bonus! – nobody’s mentioned negronis yet.

As for what they are talking about, well. It plays out something like this:

RHAENYRA: Uch, men are the worst, so eager for battle, not like us sensible gals, right, girlfriend?

ALICENT: Surrender!

RHAENYRA: Let’s talk terms.

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ALICENT: Terms, shmerms, you totally Pez-dispensered my grandkid.

RHAENYRA: That wasn’t me and anyway your dragon bit into my kid like he was trying to see if he was a jelly or a custard donut. Usurper!

ALICENT: Me? I’m no surper! Viserys changed his mind!

It goes round like this for a while, but then we finally get to the meat of it. Alicent explains that a not-entirely-coherent Viserys, on his deathbed, spoke Aegon’s name, and mentioned the prophecy of The Prince that was Promised.

I like what D’Arcy does with this moment – they let us see the knowledge that Alicent clearly misunderstood Viserys’s final words hitting Rhaenyra like a thunderbolt. We see shock, then realization light up Rhaenyra’s features – and then, finally, frantically, hope. “It was just a story he used to tell … about Aegon the Conqueror,” she says, and becomes insistent: It’s a mistake! It can be corrected, and thousands of lives could be saved! All Alicent has to do is acknowledge it!

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Alicent, of course, has meanwhile embarked upon her own emotional journey with an entirely different destination – disbelief, then doubt, then worry (could Rhaenyra be … right?) – but then finally: Resolve. No, there was no mistake, and anyway it’s too late. War is already here.

She gets up to leave, and tells Rhaenyra to hit the bricks. Why she doesn’t immediately have any of the guards standing right outside the sept’s door seize Rhaenyra and chop her into a fine bloody tartare-like mince is anybody’s guess. I guess we’re supposed to see it as her recognition of the friendship they once shared, but boy howdy does it not make sense.

I probably don’t need to tell you that this whole scenario with Alicent and Rhaenyra having a secret, last-ditch meeting is a pure show invention – nothing remotely like it exists in the book. And it’s attempting to do what most show-invention scenes attempt to do, which is to invest the book’s thin and broadly drawn historical figures some measure of the weight and depth they need to emerge as fully dramatized characters.

From where I’m sitting, all it’s done is give Alicent still another chance to implicate herself in the carnage to come, which she promptly seizes. The one thing that was keeping Team Green from coming across like the show’s clear, abject, capital-V Villains was the possibility that Alicent had made an honest mistake at Viserys’ bedside. But this episode establishes that even if she did, and she knows she did, it wouldn’t matter. She’s all in. So, uh: Mwah-hah-hah, I guess?

Parting Thoughts

  • We got a Sir playing a Ser this week. The great British actor Sir Simon Russell Beale played Ser Simon Strong, and in just a few lines, he made the character seem … lived-in, enfleshed. He could easily have portrayed him as frightened and obsequious, or indolent and pompous – the script would have supported those readings. But instead he played him as someone who’s simply resigned to his lot in life in a way that seemed kind of charming. Warm, even. And warmth, in the world of Westeros, is notable. And risky.
  • Were you okay with the smash-cut to the end of the Battle of the Burning Mill? Shades of the first season of Game of Thrones, when Tyrion got knocked unconscious at the beginning of the Battle on the Green Fork (and saved a big chunk of the production budget in the process). But then, there’s precedent – Bilbo Baggins spent the Battle of the Five Armies in The Hobbit unconscious, too. And by hand-waving away the Battle of the Burning Mill like it did, the show neatly underscores its military insignificance, as it was really just an excuse for two long-feuding Houses to beat the medieval crap out of each other. 
  • Last season I worried that we’d never get to see D’Arcy and Cooke share the screen again. I figured the plot had moved them both past any chance to exist in the same room believably. Key word there: Believably. So no, I didn’t buy it, and no, I don’t think it added much, but I did like seeing them trading lines again.
  • Just a periodic check-in on how we’re doing on pacing. The section of the book Fire & Blood that covers the Dance of the Dragons is roughly 182 pages. With this episode, we’ve only covered about 42 pages of it. That’s a little less than a quarter of the story told so far. It’s not a precise gauge, granted, because so much of what the show’s doing is invented; very little that happened in this episode, for example, happened in the book. But in terms of the simple chronology of events, it’s useful.

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On the brink of death, a woman is saved by a stranger and his family

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On the brink of death, a woman is saved by a stranger and his family

In 1982, Jean Muenchrath was injured in a mountaineering accident and on the brink of death when a stranger and his family went out of their way to save her life.

Jean Muenchrath


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Jean Muenchrath

In early May 1982, Jean Muenchrath and her boyfriend set out on a mountaineering trip in the Sierra Nevada, a mountain range in California. They had done many backcountry trips in the area before, so the terrain was somewhat familiar to both of them. But after they reached one of the summits, a violent storm swept in. It began to snow heavily, and soon the pair was engulfed in a blizzard, with thunder and lightning reverberating around them.

“Getting struck and killed by lightning was a real possibility since we were the highest thing around for miles and lightning was striking all around us,” Muenchrath said.

To reach safer ground, they decided to abandon their plan of taking a trail back. Instead, using their ice axes, they climbed down the face of the mountain through steep and icy snow chutes.

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They were both skilled at this type of descent, but at one particularly difficult part of the route, Muenchrath slipped and tumbled over 100 feet down the rocky mountain face. She barely survived the fall and suffered life-threatening injuries.

This was before cellular or satellite phones, so calling for help wasn’t an option. The couple was forced to hike through deep snow back to the trailhead. Once they arrived, Muenchrath collapsed in the parking lot. It had been five days since she’d fallen.

 ”My clothes were bloody. I had multiple fractures in my spine and pelvis, a head injury and gangrene from a deep wound,” Muenchrath said.

Not long after they reached the trailhead parking lot, a car pulled in. A man was driving, with his wife in the passenger seat and their baby in the back. As soon as the man saw Muenchrath’s condition, he ran over to help.

 ”He gently stroked my head, and he held my face [and] reassured me by saying something like, ‘You’re going to be OK now. I’ll be right back to get you,’” Muenchrath remembered.

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For the first time in days, her panic began to lift.

“My unsung hero gave me hope that I’d reach a hospital and I’d survive. He took away my fears.”

Within a few minutes, the man had unpacked his car. His wife agreed to stay back in the parking lot with their baby in order to make room for Muenchrath, her boyfriend and their backpacks.

The man drove them to a nearby town so that the couple could get medical treatment.

“I remember looking into the eyes of my unsung hero as he carried me into the emergency room in Lone Pine, California. I was so weak, I couldn’t find the words to express the gratitude I felt in my heart.”

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The gratitude she felt that day only grew. Now, nearly 45 years later, she still thinks about the man and his family.

 ”He gave me the gift of allowing me to live my life and my dreams,” Muenchrath said.

At some point along the way, the man gave Muenchrath his contact information. But in the chaos of the day, she lost it and has never been able to find him.

 ”If I knew where my unsung hero was today, I would fly across the country to meet him again. I’d hug him, buy him a meal and tell him how much he continues to mean to me by saving my life. Wherever you are, I say thank you from the depths of my being.”

My Unsung Hero is also a podcast — new episodes are released every Tuesday. To share the story of your unsung hero with the Hidden Brain team, record a voice memo on your phone and send it to myunsunghero@hiddenbrain.org.

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DTLA has a new theater — inside a fake electrical box

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DTLA has a new theater — inside a fake electrical box

By day, you’d be forgiven for walking past the newest theater in downtown L.A.

It isn’t hidden in an alley or obscured via a nameless door. No, this performance space is essentially a theater in disguise, as it’s designed to look like an electrical box — a fabrication so real that when artist S.C. Mero was installing it in the Arts District, police stopped her, concerned she was ripping out its copper wire. (There is no copper wire inside this wooden nook.)

Open the door to the theater, and discover a place of urban enchantment, where a red velvet door and crimson wallpaper beckon guests to come closer and sit inside. That is, if they can fit.

With a mirror on its side and a clock in its back, Mero’s creation, about 6 feet tall and 3 feet deep yet smaller on its interior, looks something akin to an intimate, private boudoir — the sort of dressing room that wouldn’t be out of place in one of Broadway’s historic downtown theaters. That’s by design, says Mero, who cites the ornately romanticized vibe and color palette of the Los Angeles Theatre as prime inspiration. Mero, a longtime street artist whose guerrilla art regularly dots the downtown landscape, likes to inject whimsy into her work: a drainage pipe that gives birth, a ball pit for rats or the transformation of a dilapidated building into a “castle.” But there’s just as often some hidden social commentary.

With her Electrical Box Theatre, situated across from the historic American Hotel and sausage restaurant and bar Wurstküche, Mero set out to create an impromptu performance space for the sort of experimental artists who no longer have an outlet in downtown’s galleries or more refined stages. The American Hotel, for instance, subject of 2018 documentary “Tales of the American” and once home to the anything-goes punk rock ethos of Al’s Bar, still stands, but it isn’t lost on Mero that most of the neighborhood’s artist platforms today are softer around the edges.

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Ethan Marks inside S.C. Mero’s theater inside a fake electrical box. The guerrilla art piece is near the American Hotel.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

“A lot of galleries are for what can sell,” Mero says. “Usually that’s paintings and wall art.”

She dreamed, however, of an anti-establishment place that could feel inviting and erase boundaries between audience and perfomer. “People may be intimidated to get up on a stage or at a coffee shop, but here it’s right on street level.”

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It’s already working as intended, says Mero. I visited the box early last week when Mero invited a pair of experimental musicians to perform. Shortly after trumpeter Ethan Marks took to the sidewalk, one of the American Hotel’s current residents leaned out his window and began vocally and jovially mimicking the fragmented and angular notes coming from the instrument. In this moment, “the box,” as Mero casually refers to it, became a true communal stage, a participatory call-and-response pulpit for the neighborhood.

Clown, Lars Adams, 38, peers out of S.C. Mero's theater inside a fake electrical box.

Clown Lars Adams, 38, peers out of S.C. Mero’s theater inside a fake electrical box. Mero modeled the space off of Broadway’s historic theaters.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

A few days prior, a rideshare driver noticed a crowd and pulled over to read his poetry. He told Mero it was his first time. The unscripted occurrence, she says, was “one of the best moments I’ve ever experienced in making art.”

“That’s literally what this space is,” Mero says. “It’s for people to try something new or to experiment.”

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Marks jumped at the chance to perform for free inside the theater, his brassy freewheeling equally complementing and contrasting the sounds of the intersection. “I was delighted,” he says, when Mero told him about the stage. “There’s so much unexpectedness to it that as an improviser, it really keeps you in the moment.”

A downtown resident for more than a decade, Mero has become something of an advocate for the neighborhood. The area arguably hasn’t returned to its pre-pandemic heights, as many office floors sit empty and a string of high-profile restaurant closures struck the community. Mero’s own gallery at the corner of Spring and Seventh streets shuttered in 2024. Downtown also saw its perception take a hit last year when ICE descended on the city center and national media incorrectly portrayed the hood as a hub of chaos.

Artist, S.C. Mero poses for a portrait in her newest art project, "Electrical Box Theatre"

Artist S.C. Mero looks into her latest project, a fake electrical box in the Arts District. Mero has long been associated with street art in the neighborhood.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

“A lot has changed in the 13 years when I first got down here,” Mero says. “Everybody felt like it was magic, like we were going to be part of this renaissance and L.A. was going to have this epicenter again. Then it descended. A lot of my friends left. But I still see the same beauty in it. The architecture. The history. Downtown is the most populous neighborhood in all of L.A. because it belongs to everybody. It’s everybody’s downtown, whether they love it or not. And I feel we are part of history.”

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Art today in downtown ranges from high-end galleries such as Hauser & Wirth to the graffiti-covered towers of Oceanwide Plaza. Gritty spaces, such as Superchief Gallery, have been vocal about struggles to stay afloat. Mero’s art, meanwhile, remains a source of optimism throughout downtown’s streets.

At Pershing Square, for instance, sits her “Spike Cafe,” a mini tropical hideaway atop a parking garage sign where umbrellas and finger food props have become a prettier nesting spot for pigeons. Seen potentially as a vision for beautification, a contrast, for instance, from the nature intrusive barbs that aim to deter wildlife, “Spike Cafe” has become a statement of harmony.

Elsewhere, on the corner of Broadway and Fourth streets, Mero has commandeered a once historic building that’s been burned and left to rot. Mero, in collaboration with fellow street artist Wild Life, has turned the blighted space into a fantastical haven with a knight, a dragon and more — a decaying castle from a bygone era.

“A lot of times people are like, ‘I can’t believe you get away with that!’ But most people haven’t tried to do it, you know?” Mero says. “It can be moved easily. It’s not impeding on anyone. I don’t feel I do anything bad. Not having a permit is just a technicality. I believe what I’m doing is right.”

Musician Jeonghyeon Joo, 31, plays the haegeum outside of S.C. Mero's latest art project, a theater in a faux electrical box.

Musician Jeonghyeon Joo, 31, plays the haegeum outside of S.C. Mero’s latest art project, a theater in a faux electrical box.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

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After initially posting her electrical box on her social media, Mero says she almost instantly received more than 20 requests to perform at the venue. Two combination locks keep it closed, and Mero will give out the code to those she trusts. “Some people want to come and play their accordion. Another is a tour guide,” Mero says.

Ultimately, it’s an idea, she says, that she’s had for about a decade. “Everything has to come together, right? You have to have enough funds to buy the supplies, and then the skills to to have it come together.”

And while it isn’t designed to be forever, it is bolted to the sidewalk. As for why now was the right time to unleash it, Mero is direct: “I needed the space,” she says.

There are concerns. Perhaps, Mero speculates, someone will change the lock combination, knocking her out of her own creation. And the more attention brought to the box via media interviews means more scrutiny may be placed on it, risking its confiscation by city authorities.

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As a street artist, however, Mero has had to embrace impermanence, although she acknowledges it can be a bummer when a piece disappears in a day or two. And unlike a gallerist, she feels an obligation to tweak her work once it’s out in the world. Though her “Spike Cafe” is about a year old, she says she has to “continue to babysit it,” as pigeons aren’t exactly known for their tidiness.

But Mero hopes the box has a life of its own, and considers it a conversation between her, local artists and downtown itself. “I still think we’re part of something special,” Mero says of living and working downtown.

And, at least for now, it’s the neighborhood with arguably the city’s most unique performance venue.

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A glimpse of Iran, through the eyes of its artists and journalists

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A glimpse of Iran, through the eyes of its artists and journalists

Understanding one of the world’s oldest civilizations can’t be achieved through a single film or book. But recent works of literature, journalism, music and film by Iranians are a powerful starting point. Clockwise from top left: The Seed of the Sacred Fig, For The Sun After Long Nights, Cutting Through Rocks, It Was Just an Accident, Martyr!, and Kayhan Kalhor.

NEON; Pantheon; Gandom Films Production; NEON; Vintage; Julia Gunther for NPR


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NEON; Pantheon; Gandom Films Production; NEON; Vintage; Julia Gunther for NPR

Few Americans have had the opportunity to visit or explore Iran, an ethnically diverse nation of over 90 million people which has been effectively shut off from the United States since the Iranian revolution of 1979. Now, with a U.S. and Israeli-led war on Iran underway, the ideas, feelings and opinions of Iranians may feel less accessible. However, some recent books, films and music made by artists and journalists in Iran and from the Iranian diaspora can help illuminate this ancient culture and its contemporary politics.

These suggestions are just a starting point, of course — with an emphasis on recent works made by Iranians themselves, rather than by outsiders looking in.

Books

For the Sun After Long Nights: The Story of Iran’s Women-Led Uprising, by Fatemeh Jamalpour and Nilo Tabrizy

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For the Sun After Long Nights: The Story of Iran's Women-Led Uprising

There are quite a few excellent titles that deconstruct the history of Iran from ancient times through the rule of the Pahlavi Dynasty to the Iranian Revolution. But there are far fewer books that help us understand the Iran of 2026 and the people who live there now. One standout is the National Book Award-nominated For the Sun After Long Nights: The Story of Iran’s Women-Led Uprising by journalists Fatemeh Jamalpour and Nilo Tabrizy, which chronicles — almost in real time — the Woman, Life, Freedom movement that began in 2022, during which Jamalpour was working secretly as a journalist in Tehran. In 2024-25, Jamalpour (who is now living in exile in the U.S.) and I spent a year together at the University of Michigan’s Knight-Wallace fellowship for journalists; her insights into contemporary Iran are among the best.

Gold, by Rumi, translated by Haleh Liza Gafori

Gold

If Americans are familiar with Persian poetry at all, it may well be through popular “translations” of the 13th-century Sufi poet Jalaluddin Rumi done by the late American poet Coleman Barks, who neither read nor spoke the Persian language and detached the works of Molana (“our master”), as Iranians call him, of references to Islam. (Instead, Barks “interpreted” preexisting English translations.)

In 2022, Iranian-American poet, performance artist and singer Haleh Liza Gafori offered the first volume of a corrective, in the form of fresh Rumi translations that are at once accessible, deeply contemplative and immediate. A second volume, Water, followed last year.

Martyr!: A Novel, by Kaveh Akbar

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Martyr!: A Novel

This 2024 debut novel by Kaveh Akbar, the poetry editor at The Nation, is an unflinching tour-de-force bursting with wit and insight into the complications of diaspora, the nature of identity in a post-War on Terror world and the inter-generational impact of the 1979 Revolution on Iranians. The protagonist, the Iran-born but American-raised Cyrus Shams, has struggled with addiction, depression and insomnia his whole life, and is trying his best to make sense of a world at the “intersection of Iranian-ness and Midwestern-ness.” As with so many other of the titles here, fiction and fact are woven together: the story centers around the true story of the U.S. downing an Iranian passenger plane in 1988 during the Iran-Iraq war.

The Stationery Shop: A Novel, by Marjan Kamali

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Marjan Kamali’s 2019 love story is the wistful tale of a young woman named Roya and an idealistic activist named Bahman, who meet cute in a Tehran store in the 1950s, but whose planned marriage falls apart due to turmoil both familial and political, as Iran’s democratically elected government falls in a U.S.-British lead coup that ends with the installation of the Shah. Roya flees to the U.S. for a fresh start, but the two reunite in 2013, wondering: what if life had spun out in a different direction?

Movies

Coup 53

This 2019 documentary directed by Iranian film maker Taghi Amirani and co-written by Walter Murch recounts Operation Ajax, in which the CIA and Britain’s MI6 engineered the removal of Mohammad Mossadegh, Iran’s democratically elected prime minister, and installed a friendly ruler, Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, in his place. (The Shah was ousted in the 1979 revolution.) As Fresh Air critic John Powers noted in his review, “What emerges first is the backstory of the coup, which like so much in the modern Middle East is predicated on oil. Shortly after the black gold was discovered in early 20th century Iran, a British oil company now known as BP locked up a sweetheart deal for its exploitation. Iran not only got a mere 16% of the oil money before British taxes, but the books were kept by the British — and the Iranians weren’t allowed to see them.”

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Cutting Through Rocks

Sara Khaki and Mohammadreza Eyni’s film Cutting Through Rocks is up for an Oscar this season after premiering at the 2025 Sundance Film Festival. This inspiring documentary follows Sara Shahverdi — a divorced, childless motorcyclist — as she campaigns to become the first woman elected to the city council of her remote village, and who dreams of teaching girls to ride and to end child marriage.

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It Was Just an Accident

The latest film from acclaimed director Jafar Panahi — who has officially been banned from making films in Iran — is 2025’s It Was Just an Accident. Panahi, who has been jailed multiple times for his work and was recently sentenced again in absentia, has said in interviews that his inspiration for this brutal – and shockingly funny – thriller was people he met while in prison: an auto mechanic named Vahid finds himself face-to-face with the man who he is fairly certain was his torturer in jail, and eventually assembles other victims to try to confirm his suspicions. Fresh Air critic Justin Chang called It Was Just an Accident “a blast of pure anti-authoritarian rage.”

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The Seed of the Sacred Fig

This 2024 thriller — shot in secret by director Mohammad Rasoulof — centers on a family whose father, Iman, is appointed as an investigating judge in Tehran. But it soon becomes clear that his job has nothing to do with actually investigating. Iman, his wife, and two daughters come to suspect each other in our age of mass surveillance, as the city streets below erupt into the real-life Woman, Life, Freedom protests.

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Music

Kayhan Kalhor

One of the primary ambassadors of Persian classical music has been the composer and kamancheh (an Iranian bowed-instrument) virtuoso Kayhan Kalhor. Although music, like poetry, has been central to Iranian culture for centuries, all kinds of music were initially banned after the 1979 revolution. Since then, however, Iranian classical musicians have ridden many looping cycles of official condemnation, grudging tolerance, censorship and attempts at co-option by the regime.

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Despite those difficulties, Kalhor has built a thriving career both inside Iran and abroad, including winning a Grammy Award as part of the Silkroad Ensemble and earning three nominations as a solo artist. Back in 2012, I invited him to our Tiny Desk to perform solo. “Didn’t know I could have goosebumps for 12 minutes straight,” a YouTube commenter recently wrote; I couldn’t put it any better.

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Saeid Shanbehzadeh

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Among Iran’s 92 million people, about 40% of come from various ethnic minorities, including Azeris, Kurds and Armenians among many others. One of the most fascinating communities is the Afro-Iranians in the Iranian south, many of whose ancestors were brought to Iran as enslaved people from east Africa. Multi-instrumentalist and dancer Saeid Shanbehzadeh, who traces his ancestry to Zanzibar, celebrates that heritage with his band, and specializes in the Iranian bagpipe and percussion.

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The underground metal scene

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Despite ongoing restrictions on music — including the continued ban on female singers performing in mixed-gender public settings — Iran is home to a thriving underground scene for metal and punk. Though it’s fictional, Farbod Ardebelli’s 2020 short drama Forbidden to See Us Scream in Tehran — which was secretly filmed in Tehran, with the director giving instructions remotely from the U.S. via WhatsApp — gives a flavor of that real-life scene and the dangers those artists face.

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