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Happy Arbor Day! These 20 books will change the way you think about trees
The trees in this photo are amazing (and not just because they happen to be growing in a very Instagrammable heart shape around Baker Lake in Quebec, Canada.) Read on for a tree appreciation reading list for Arbor Day.
Sebastien St-Jean/AFP via Getty Images
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Sebastien St-Jean/AFP via Getty Images
The trees in this photo are amazing (and not just because they happen to be growing in a very Instagrammable heart shape around Baker Lake in Quebec, Canada.) Read on for a tree appreciation reading list for Arbor Day.
Sebastien St-Jean/AFP via Getty Images
Trees communicate. They migrate. They protect. They heal. This year for Arbor Day this year we climbed into the NPR archives to find our favorite arboreal fiction, nonfiction and kids’ books.
Scroll down to find excerpts from interviews and reviews, plus recommendations from Books We Love — NPR’s annual, year-end books guide.
Nonfiction
Twelve Trees: The Deep Roots of Our Future by Daniel Lewis, 2024
There are tens of thousands of tree species on Earth, but writer Daniel Lewis focused in on just a dozen in his book, Twelve Trees. Lewis spoke with Ari Shapiro on All Things Considered in March: “The natural world needs our attentions, plural …” he said. “I want people to understand that the salvation of trees can be our salvation.”
Lewis believes trees and people have more in common than you might think. “These 12 trees each say something about ourselves because trees are not just about trees. … We live among them, and they live among us, so I think we have an obligation to understand them better.”
Better Living Through Birding: Notes from a Black Man in the Natural World by Christian Cooper, 2023
Christian Cooper was birdwatching in Central Park in 2020 when a white woman falsely accused him of threatening her. His book Better Living Through Birding chronicles life as a Black birder, gay activist and Marvel comics writer and editor. In 2023 he told Terry Gross on Fresh Air: “Birds belong to no one. They are for everyone to enjoy. And it is an incredibly healing thing to be out there in whatever habitat the birds are in, to connect with the wild and to just see these feathered wonders going about their business of life.”
The Treeline: The Last Forest and the Future of Life on Earth by Ben Rawlence, 2022
Trees are on the move — in ways they shouldn’t need to be. Structured as a study of half a dozen trees from the boreal forest – the wide band of trees near the Arctic Circle – The Treeline traces the canopy around the world, noting where trees have vanished or are creeping ever northward. But this isn’t just a landscape diary; whether in Canada, Greenland, or Norway, author Ben Rawlence emphasizes portraits of people, especially Indigenous communities facing the front lines of climate change, and scientists chronicling the imminent, dramatic changes ahead of us. A sounding alarm, and a call to action.
— Genevieve Valentine, author and book critic
Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest by Suzanne Simard, 2021
Trees are “social creatures” that communicate with each other in cooperative ways ecologist Suzanne Simard told Dave Davies on Fresh Air in 2021. Her memoir Finding the Mother Tree describes her research on cooperation and symbiosis in the forest, and shares how her study of trees took on a new resonance when she was diagnosed with breast cancer. Simard explained that trees in a forest are often linked to each other via an older tree she calls a “mother” or “hub” tree. “The seedlings will link into the network of the old trees and benefit from that huge uptake resource capacity,” Simard said. “And the old trees would also pass a little bit of carbon and nutrients and water to the little seedlings, at crucial times in their lives, that actually help them survive.”
The Journeys of Trees: A Story About Forests, People, and the Future by Zach St. George, 2020
Forests migrate: They are on the move away from danger and always have been. Now, these are not the dour-faced Ents of J.R.R. Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings, who are downright speedy compared to the agonizingly slow march of Earth’s trees and forests. But the journeys of trees, and the forces that drive that titular phrase, are an engrossing tale of nature’s survival, the increasing speed of climate change and of the people working to preserve these most ancient creatures. Author and reporter Zach St. George presents a thoroughly researched story about what we can learn from some of Earth’s oldest residents if we just stop and listen.
— Steve Mullis, former editor/producer, Morning Edition
Hanging Tree Guitars by Freeman Vines with Zoe van Buren, photography by Timothy Duffy, 2020
Part memoir, part photo essay, Hanging Tree Guitars is the story of North Carolina luthier Freeman Vines. He crafts guitars from found materials and hunks of old wood, including some from a tree once used for a lynching. Vines, 78, explains how the wood talks to him, and he reflects on growing up in a sharecropper’s family under Jim Crow. “I had learned that the white man was what controlled the code,” he says. Timothy Duffy’s tintype images of Vines and his guitars are stunning, including one where Vines is sitting in a field with his guitars strung on a frame overhead.
— Debbie Elliott, correspondent, National Desk
Forest Bathing: How Trees Can Help You Find Health and Happiness by Qing Li, 2018
In 2018, Marcelo Gleiser wrote an essay for NPR about the practice of forest bathing. Gleiser wrote: “In Japan, the country that has the highest population density in the world but also vast expanses of green forests (about 3,000 miles of them), an ancient tradition tries to balance out the crush from urban living. It’s known as shinrin-yoku, or ‘forest bathing.’ It’s the practice of spending prolonged periods of time with trees in order to gain from their many health benefits. … Dr. Qing Li, the world’s foremost expert in forest medicine, introduces readers to the healing practice of forest bathing — and the art and science of how trees can enrich your life. … Dr. Li’s book is itself a tribute to forests and the magnificence of trees, featuring more than 100 color photographs of forests around the world.”
Urban Forests: A Natural History of Trees and People in the American Cityscape by Jill Jonnes, 2016
Next time you’re outside, look up. Trees are so ubiquitous that it’s easy to take them for granted. But Urban Forests makes you stop and pay attention to the “living landmarks” standing tall in America’s cities. From Thomas Jefferson’s time to present day, Jill Jonnes explores the essential roles trees play in urban centers — filtering air, providing habitat, offering shade, calming nerves and more. I loved this book because it’s both for history lovers and for tree devotees. It’s a good read — best done under the canopy of your favorite tree.
— Jeanine Herbst, news anchor
The Hidden Life of Trees: What They Feel, How They Communicate―Discoveries from A Secret World by Peter Wohlleben, translated by Jane Billinghurst, 2016
In 2016, Alva Noë wrote an essay for NPR about Peter Wohlleben’s book The Hidden Life of Trees. Noë said: “The book is dreamy and strange; it tells about trees and their tightknit communities in the forest. The book is full of science. But it’s written from the standpoint of a person who lives and works with trees in the forest rather than someone who studies them. … The Wood Wide Web he describes is a community of trees and microbes, aphids, fungi and birds, one in which dense connectivity and mutual interdependence are the norm (and are missing in the forest-farms of the modern world). Communication, shared and competing interests, learning and adaptation, all play a critical role.”
Fiction
The Tree Doctor by Marie Mutsuki Mockett, 2024
A woman returns to her California hometown to help her ailing mother move into a care facility. Dismayed by the condition of her mother’s garden, she calls a nursery for help and meets Dean — the tree doctor. As book critic Michael Schaub wrote: “Her attempt to save the fuchsias leads her to a whirlwind relationship that confirms to her what she already, in the back of her mind, knows: Her life as a wife and mother has caused her to neglect herself, and she needs to save herself even more urgently than she needs to rescue her mother’s flowers. The Tree Doctor is an excellent novel, one that beautifully chronicles one woman’s response to a series of life-changing crises.”
The Island of Missing Trees by Elif Shafak, 2021
The characters in this book are immigrants from Cyprus, the Mediterranean island where Greece and Turkey went to war in the 1970s. But the narrator? It’s a fig tree. Novelist Elif Shafak spoke with Morning Edition‘s Steve Inskeep in 2021 about her decision tell the story from a tree’s perspective. “I wanted an observer that lives longer than human beings,” Shafak said. “Trees have this longevity. They were here before us, and they will most probably be here long after we humans have disappeared. … What does it mean to be rooted, uprooted and rerooted?”
The Overstory: A Novel by Richard Powers, 2018
The Overstory begins with the nine characters whose lives will intersect as the novel unfolds. Each has some kind of connection with a tree. These stories, so beautifully told and intricately crafted, perfectly set the stage for this saga about a small band of radical environmentalists who are determined to save an old-growth forest in the Pacific Northwest. They pay a heavy price for their determination. As Richard Powers pulls you into their lives and fills you with astonishing facts about trees, he deftly pits that price against the cost of allowing these magnificent forests to be destroyed.
— Lynn Neary, former correspondent, Culture Desk
The Lie Tree by Frances Hardinge, 2016
Frances Hardinge’s Gothic fantasy The Lie Tree starts in the middle of a dreary downpour and feels like it ought only to be read during one as well. It’s the story of Faith Sunderly, her naturalist father’s mysterious murder and the magical tree that grows truth-revealing fruits only when Faith whispers lies to it. This book feels destined to be read in the middle of a dark and stormy night, preferably under the covers and with a secret flashlight. However, Hardinge’s writing is so beautiful and her atmosphere so evocative that it could probably leave you shivering even if you read it on a sunny tropical beach.
— Margaret Willison, librarian and book critic
Kids’ Books
Listen to the Language of the Trees: A Story of How Forests Communicate Underground by Tera Kelley, illustrated by Marie Hermansson, 2022
If you know about the “Wood Wide Web,” then you know that trees communicate through the fungi that connect their roots. Still, did you know about how they support one another with extra food? How they can tell their offspring apart from other trees? How they can warn other trees when insects attack? Consider this the preeminent book for kids on the topic, complemented with illustrations both beautiful and clear-cut, making a tangle of a topic as easy as (forgive me) falling off a log! (For ages 4 to 8)
— Betsy Bird, book critic and author of Long Road to the Circus
Little, Brown Books for Young Readers
Berry Song by Michaela Goade, 2022
Radiant illustrations by Caldecott-winning illustrator Michaela Goade (We Are Water Protectors) practically leap from the pages of her latest picture book with joy and warmth. Goade’s first foray into authorship is a triumphant love song to the Tlingit people. A heartwarming story of a girl and her grandmother, and the joy they get from nature’s offerings. A rich and beautiful book meant to be shared. (For ages 4 to 8)
— Juanita Giles, executive director, Virginia Children’s Book Festival
The Tree in Me by Corinna Luyken, 2021
“The first thing you will notice about Corinna Luyken’s The Tree in Me is the pink,” wrote Juanita Giles, executive director of the Virginia Children’s Book Festival, in 2021. “Not a soft, gentle pink; not an Easter egg pink, but NEON PINK, and lots of it. Pink cheeks, pink flowers, pink trees, pink AIR. Neon pink is practically bursting from the cover like, well, like happiness.”
In spare, poetic text, the book describes how every child is like a tree, rooted in nature. “In all of my original sketches for the book, I was using shades of green,” Luyken told Giles. “But as the visual story started to develop, I realized that the green was making the book feel too literal … and I wanted it to be much more expansive and universal than that. I wanted it to be a larger, shape shifting, timeless tree.” (For ages 4 to 8)
Everything You Need for a Treehouse by Carter Higgins, illustrated by Emily Hughes, 2018
Get ready for your imagination to explode! Read this book, and pass out the crayons — or set up a library fort! Everything You Need for a Treehouse is all about seeing something that’s not there and imagining your world as you want it to be. From building treehouses to just lying on your back and telling stories about clouds — anything is possible. I wasn’t surprised to get to the end and see that it was written by a librarian, because every imagined treehouse feels like a book in itself, capturing a mood or a need. The one made of glass and filled with flowers, the one that looks like a library, they’re all cozier and more fun than the next. (For ages 3 to 6)
— Justine Kenin, editor, All Things Considered
Wishtree by Katherine Applegate, 2017
Did you know trees can talk? An impressive, more-than-200-year-old oak named Red is the narrator of Katherine Applegate’s Wishtree. For centuries, neighbors have been leaving their wishes on scraps of paper and cloth in Red’s hallows and branches. When Samar and her Muslim family move nearby, they are met with intolerance and hostility. Red is touched by Samar’s simple wish and determined to make it come true, even at the risk of being cut down. This tender story is powerful without being preachy. (For ages 8 to 12)
— Lisa Yee, author of Maizy Chen’s Last Chance
Frances Lincoln Children’s
The Night Gardener by Terry Fan and Eric Fan, 2016
Beautifully drawn, this evocative book is deceptively simple. When a boy discovers that the tree outside his window has been magically transformed into an owl, he seeks to find the reason why. As more and more wondrous topiaries appear all along Grimloch Lane, the mystery deepens. That’s when the boy, William, meets an enigmatic man who enlists his help. In The Night Gardener, brothers Terry and Eric Fan have created a gorgeous book about a small town that comes alive, and a young boy whose life has been irrevocably changed. (For ages 4 to 8)
— Lisa Yee, author of Maizy Chen’s Last Chance
Tap the Magic Tree by Christie Matheson, 2013
Who wouldn’t want the opportunity to take a tree from a bare trunk to spring blossoms, to fruitful summer, to loss in autumn, to winter snow, and back to spring beginnings again? Simple instructions in spare, rhyming text encourage readers to add and subtract elements — tap once to add a leaf, touch buds to turn them into flowers, shake the tree to make the apples kerplop to the ground. Christie Matheson offers children the opportunity to help a tree grow and change throughout a year — what a powerful feeling! (For ages 4 to 8)
— Mara Alpert, children’s librarian, Los Angeles Public Library
When John Lantigua, a retired journalist in Miami Beach, checked his email one recent morning, he was glad to see an invitation.
“It was like, ‘Come and share an evening with me. Click here for details,’” Mr. Lantigua said.
It appeared to be a Paperless Post invitation from someone he once worked with at The Palm Beach Post, a man who had left Florida for Mississippi and liked to arrange dinners when he was back in town.
Mr. Lantigua, 78, clicked the link. It didn’t open.
He clicked a second time. Still nothing.
He didn’t realize what was going on until a mutual friend who had received the same email told him it wasn’t an invitation at all. It was a scam.
Phishing scams have long tried to frighten people into clicking on links with emails claiming that their bank accounts have been hacked, or that they owe thousands of dollars in fines, or that their pornography viewing habits have been tracked.
The invitation scam is a little more subtle: It preys on the all-too-human desire to be included in social gatherings.
The phishy invitations mimic emails from Paperless Post, Evite and Punchbowl. What appears to be a friendly overture from someone you know is really a digital Trojan horse that gives scammers access to your personal information.
“I thought it was diabolical that they would choose somebody who has sent me a legitimate invitation before,” Mr. Lantigua said. “He’s a friend of mine. If he’s coming to town, I want to see him.”
Rachel Tobac, the chief executive of SocialProof Security, a cybersecurity firm, said she noticed the scam last holiday season.
“Phishing emails are not a new thing,” Ms. Tobac said, “but every six months, we get a new lure that hijacks our amygdala in new ways. There’s such a desire for folks to get together that this lure is interesting to people. They want to go to a party.”
Phishing scams involve “two distinct paths,” Ms. Tobac added. In one, the recipient is served a link that turns out to be dead, or so it seems. A click activates malware that runs silently as it gleans passwords and other bits of personal information. In all likelihood, this is what happened when Mr. Lantigua clicked on the ersatz invitation link.
Another scam offers a working link. Potential victims who click on it are asked to provide a password. Those who take that next step are a boon to hackers.
“They have complete control of your email and, in turn, your entire digital life,” Ms. Tobac said. “They can reset your password for your dog’s Instagram account. They can take over your bank account. Change your health insurance.”
Digital invitation platforms are trying to combat the scam by publishing guides on how to spot fake invitations. Paperless Post has also set up an email account — phishing@paperlesspost.com — for users to submit messages for verification. The company sends suspicious links to the Anti-Phishing Working Group, a nonprofit that maintains a database monitored by cybersecurity firms. Flagged links are rendered ineffective.
The scammers’ new strategy of exploiting the desire for connection is infuriating, said Alexa Hirschfeld, a founder of Paperless Post. “Life can be isolating,” Ms. Hirschfeld said. “When it looks like you’re getting an invitation from someone you know, your first instinct is excitement, not skepticism.”
Olivia Pollock, the vice president of brand for Evite, said that fake invitations tended to be generic, promising a birthday party or a celebration of life. Most invitations these days tend to have a specific focus — mahjong gatherings or book club talks, for instance. “The devil is in the details,” Ms. Pollock said.
Because scammers don’t know how close you are with the people in your contact list, fake invitations may also seem random. “They could be from your business school roommate you haven’t spoken to in 10 years,” Ms. Hirschfeld said.
Alyssa Williamson, who works in public relations in New York, was leaving a yoga class recently when she checked her phone and saw an invitation from a college classmate.
“I assumed it was an alumni event,” Ms. Williamson, 30, said. “I clicked on it, and it was like, ‘Enter your email.’ I didn’t even think about it.”
Later that day, she received texts from friends asking her about the party invitation she had just sent out. Her response: What party?
“The thing is, I host a lot of events,” she said. “Some knew it was fake. Others were like, ‘What’s this? I can’t open it.’”
Andrew Smith, a graduate student in finance who lives in Manhattan, received what looked like a Punchbowl invitation to “a memory making celebration.” It appeared to have come from a woman he had dated in college. He received it when he was having drinks at a bar on a Friday night — “a pretty insidious piece of timing,” he said.
“The choice of sender was super clever,” Mr. Smith, 29, noted. “This was somebody that would probably get a reaction from me.”
Mr. Smith seized on the phrase “memory making celebration” and filled in the blanks. He imagined that someone in his ex-girlfriend’s immediate family had died. Perhaps she wanted to restart contact at this difficult moment.
Something saved him when he clicked a link and tried to tap out his personal information — his inability to remember the password to his email account. The next day, he reached out to his ex, who confirmed that the invitation was fake.
“It didn’t trigger any alarm bells,” Mr. Smith said. “I went right for the click. I went completely animal brain.”
The new scam comes with an unfortunate side effect, a suspicion of invitations altogether. It’s enough to make a person antisocial.
“Don’t invite me to anything,” Mr. Lantigua, the retired journalist, said, only half-joking. “I’m not coming.”
You want to know where men’s fashion is heading? Follow the geeks.
These are the obsessives, fixated, with a NASA technician’s precision, on how their pants fit or on which pair of Paraboot shoes is the correct pair. These are the obsessives who in the aughts were early to selvage denim (now available at a Uniqlo near you!) and soft-shouldered Italian tailoring in the mode that, eventually, trickled down to your local J. Crew.
And where has the attention of this cohort landed now? On a vanguard of newish-to-the-West labels from Japan, like A.Presse, Comoli, Auralee and T.T.
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A.Presse is probably the most hyped of this cohort. What other label is worn by the French soccer player Pierre Kalulu and the actor Cooper Hoffman and has men paying a premium for a hoodie on the resale market? Kazuma Shigematsu, the founder, is not into attention. When we spoke, he wouldn’t allow me to record the conversation. Notes only.
“You mean a better-fitting denim jacket that’s based on an old Levi’s thing? Yeah, OK, sold,” said Jeremy Kirkland, host of the “Blamo!” podcast and the textbook definition of a latter-day Japanese men’s wear guy. Mr. Kirkland, once someone who would allocate his budget to Italian suits, admitted that, recently, over the course of two weeks, he bought four (yes, four) jackets from A.Presse1.
“I’m not really experimenting with my style anymore,” Mr. Kirkland said. “I’m just wanting really good, basic stuff.”
Basic though these clothes appear, their hook is that they’re opulent to the touch, elevated in their fabrication.
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Over the years, the designer Ryota Iwai has told me repeatedly that he is inspired by nothing more than the people he sees on his commute to the Auralee offices in Tokyo. When asked recently if he collected anything, he said nothing — just his bicycle.
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The true somber tale of this wave. The brand’s founder, Taiga Takahashi, died of an arrhythmia in 2022 at 27. The label has continued to plumb history for inspiration. The latest collection had pieces that drew on bygone American postal-worker uniforms.
An Auralee2 bomber looks pedestrian until you touch it and realize its silk. Labels like T.T3 make clothes that echo the specs of a vintage relic yet come factory fresh, notched up, made … well, better. They bestow upon the wearer a certain in-the-know authority.
And so there is a hobbyist giddiness present on Discord channels where 30- and 40-something men trade tips on how to size moleskin trousers by the Japanese label Comoli; at boutiques like Neighbour in Vancouver, British Columbia, where items like a $628 dusty pink trucker jacket from Yoko Sakamoto and an $820 T.T sweater sell out soon after hitting the sales floor.
What’s notable is how swiftly these geeky preferences have wiggled into the broader fashion community. While I was in Paris for the men’s fashion shows a year ago January, all anyone wanted to talk about were things with a “Made in Japan” tag. I would speak with editors who were carving out room in their suitcases for Auralee’s $3,000 leather jackets.
But these were clothes being shown away from the fashion week hordes. The A.Presse showroom was on a Marais side street in a space about as long as a bowling lane and scarcely wider that was crammed with racks of canvas, silk and denim jackets with Pollock-like paint splatters. There were leather jackets as plush as Roche Bobois sofas and hoodies based on sweatshirts made in America a half-century ago.
I got the hype. After 10 days of puzzling over newfangled stuff on the runways, the display of simple, understandable shapes we’ve known our whole lives, but redone with extra care, couldn’t have felt more welcome.
Kazuma Shigematsu, the A.Presse designer, said he had collected a trove of vintage pieces that he housed in a separate space to plumb for inspiration. He made new clothes based on old clothes that benefited from a century of small design tweaks.
By this January, A.Presse had upgraded to a regal maison facing the Place des Vosges, with giant windows and even more reverent hoodies, even more tender leathers. Back in America, I asked an online department store executive what his favorite thing from Paris was. He took out his phone to show me photos of himself trying on a zip-up leather jacket in A.Presse’s high-ceilinged showroom.
On Their Own Terms
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“We never think about trendiness or popular design details,” Ms. Sakamoto said through a translator. “It’s more like functionality, everyday use.” The label has a thing for natural dyes: pants stained with persimmon tannin, yellow ochre and sumi ink, shirts colored with mugwort and adzuki beans.
The sudden popularity of these labels outside Japan can make it feel as if they are new. Yet each label has built a respectable business within Japan, some for more than a decade. Auralee was founded in 2015. A year later, Yoko Sakamoto4 started its line. A.Presse is the relative baby of this cohort at five years old.
“A couple years ago, we would have to buy off the line sheet or go to Japan and see everything,” said Saager Dilawri, the owner of Neighbour, who has an instinct for what spendy, creative types lust after. “Now I think everyone from Japan is trying to go to Paris to get into the international market.”
This movement’s “Beatles on Ed Sullivan” moment occurred in 2018, when Auralee won the Fashion Prize of Tokyo, granting the designer, Ryota Iwai, financial support. Soon after, Auralee was given a slot on the Paris Fashion Week calendar.
“I had never seen a show before, never thought to do it,” Mr. Iwai said through a translator in February, days after his latest runway show. He has now done five.
As we talked, buyers speaking different languages entered his storefront showroom and ventured upstairs to scrutinize items like a trench coat that looked as if it was made of corduroy but was actually made from cashmere and wool and an MA-1 bomber jacket with a feathery merino wool lining peeking out along the placket.
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The Cale designer Yuki Sato travels throughout Japan to find textiles. Unusually, the company manufactures everything, including leather and denim, in one factory.
At Cale’s5 display off Place Vendôme, the designer Yuki Sato described denim trousers and pocketed work jackets as “modest, but perfectionist.” On the other side of the city, at Soshi Otsuki, whose 11-year-old label Soshiotsuki has gained attention for its warped vision of salary-man suits, I encountered buyers from Kith, a New York streetwear emporium better known for selling logoed hoodies and sell-out sneakers than for tailoring.
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Nearly a decade into its existence, Soshiotsuki has hit a hot streak. Soshi Otsuki won the LVMH Prize in 2025, and he already has a Zara collaboration under his belt. An Asics collaboration is set to arrive in stores soon.
Talking through translators with these designers, I began to worry that it might be unfair to group them together simply because they were all from Japan. Auralee simmers with colors as lush as a Matisse canvas, while Comoli’s brightest shade is brown. Soshiotsuki6 has mastered tailoring, while Orslow is known for its faded-at-the-knee jeans channeling decades-old Levi’s.
Rather, as with the Antwerp Six design clique that sprung out of Belgium in the early 1980s, it is these labels’ origin stories that thread them together.
“They’re being encountered on their own terms and respected on their own account, and they happen to be Japanese,” said W. David Marx, the author of “Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style” and a cultural critic who has lived in Tokyo for more than two decades.
“It is a new era of Japanese fashion on the global stage,” Mr. Marx said.
A Love Affair With Japan
Western shoppers have a history of falling hard for clothes from Japan. In 1981, when Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto crashed onto the Paris fashion scene, buyers swooned for their brainy, body-shrouding creations.
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Recently reintroduced as Number(N)ine by Takahiro Miyashita.
Years later, Number(N)ine7 and A Bathing Ape synthesized trends we would call American — grunge, streetwear and hip-hop — polished them up and sold them back to the West.
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Years before American men were trawling the internet for A.Presse, they would scour forums for deals on Visvim’s jeans and sneakers. Today, Visvim has stores in Santa Fe, N.M.; Carmel, Calif.; and Los Angeles.
Into the 2000s, clothing geeks were swapping tips on forums like Superfuture and Hypebeast about how to use a Japanese proxy service to buy Visvim’s8 seven-eyelet leather work boots or SugarCane’s brick-thick jeans.
Along the way, “Made in Japan” became a shorthand for “made well.” This was more than fetishization. As America’s clothing factories became empty carcasses pockmarking the heartland, Japan’s apparel industry grew steroidal.
“Japan still has an incredible manufacturing base for apparel that goes all the way from the textiles to the sewing to the postproduction,” Mr. Marx said.
Today, many Japanese labels produce most of their garments and, crucially, their textiles in Japan. When I first met Mr. Iwai years ago, I asked how he managed to create such lush colors. He answered, as if noting that the sky was blue, that he worked with the factories that developed his fabrics. As I spoke with Mr. Sato in January, he shared that Cale’s factory had been in his family for generations and also produced for other Japanese brands that I would know.
Chris Green, the owner of Ven. Space, a boutique in the Carroll Gardens neighborhood of Brooklyn that has helped to introduce a number of these labels to an American market, suggested that because Japan is a small country with a fervent fashion culture, a competitive spirit has been stoked.
“They have to be able to cut through the noise,” Mr. Green said, with brands trying to prove that their cashmere sweater can outclass their peers’, that their silks are sourced from finer factories. What’s more, he said, once these brands have nailed a design, they stick with it. That is something that is important to men, in particular, who hate when a brand abandons its favored pants after a season.
Before he opened Ven. Space in 2024, Mr. Green was an admirer of many of these labels, purchasing them during trips to Japan. As we spoke, he was wearing a pair of Comoli belted jeans that he bought five or so years ago. A similar style is still available.
Primed for What They Were Pitching
At the close of the 2010s, streetwear was running on fumes. Quiet luxury was entering at stage left. If the Row and Loro Piana were expert at subtle, fine-to-the-touch clothes, so, too, were the likes of T.T, Graphpaper and Yoko Sakamoto.
“I went from this guy that wears pear-shaped pants to just wearing, like, a denim jacket,” said Chris Maradiaga, a tech worker and freelance writer in Vancouver. His wardrobe today consists of Comoli’s black-as-night trousers and a purple-tinged coat by Ssstein. His kaleidoscopic Bode jackets gather dust.
That Ssstein clothes have landed in the closets of men on the other side of the world defies the early guidance relayed to Kiichiro Asakawa, the label’s bushy-haired designer. His “senpais,” or mentors, warned him that his reduced designs might leave Western audiences cold. “You need something powerful,” they told him.
He tried, but it wasn’t necessary. It’s the most minimal designs — his cotton gabardine zip-ups, his “easy” pleated trousers — that people are most interested in now. “It actually makes me very happy,” he said through a translator. “My instincts were right.” Mr. Asakawa won the Fashion Prize of Tokyo in 2024.
Adapting to North American Markets (and Men)
Several Japanese designers noted that they had modified their sizing to accommodate larger, American bodies.
“I’ll ask them, Can you lengthen the pants by three centimeters? Because you need that for the Western market,” Mr. Dilawri of Neighbour said, noting that the designers were receptive to those requests.
A number of labels, like Comoli and Soshiotsuki, are already oversize. That’s the look.
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Kiichiro Asakawa ran a Tokyo boutique, Carol, before starting Ssstein in 2016. It’s still there. He, too, said he found inspiration in the everyday, for example when watching an elderly couple have dinner across a restaurant.
There is also the matter of price. On the whole, these clothes are not cheap. See Auralee’s silk bomber jacket, which could be military surplus but feels stolen from a sultan’s palace. It’s roughly $1,700. Ssstein’s9 Carhartt cousin chore jacket with a cowhide collar and a factory-massaged fade? About $1,000. Anyone who has traveled recently in Japan, where the yen is tantalizingly weak, will tell you that these Japanese-made clothes, after being imported, are far pricier in North America.
Yet, as luxury fashion labels continue to price out the aspirational middle-class shopper, many of those same shoppers have convinced themselves that the Japanese labels are a better value. A cashmere coat at Prada is $10,000, and you’ll need $1,690 to own a cotton-blend cardigan from Margiela. Similar pieces from Japanese labels can be half that price, or less.
“Brands like Bottega, Balenciaga, the Row — all that stuff — are so unobtainable,” said Mr. Kirkland, whose clothing budget has shifted to A.Presse. “I will never be in that price bracket,” he added, “but I’m wealthy enough to buy a chore coat for $800.”
Of course, Mr. Kirkland and all of the fans of these labels could own a chore coat for far less — but then it wouldn’t be “Made in Japan.”
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