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Fine Jewelry Designs Exhibit an Urban Flair

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Fine Jewelry Designs Exhibit an Urban Flair

Imaginative ways of playing with light have long been one of jewelry’s key features, and several brands recently added a cool urban twist to that technique. Fine jewelry collections have been introduced with graphic looks that clearly were inspired by city architecture and echoed the signature geometry of Art Deco design.

When Chopard unveiled the latest additions to its Ice Cube collection in September, for example, the house’s marketing material described the pieces as “sculpted by light,” with gridlike patterns set onto gold rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces. Rows of tiny gold cubes, some punctuated with diamonds, evoked an evening cityscape twinkling with lights.

Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, said she took her cue from Bauhaus architecture and its focus on functionality and simplicity. “This minimalist aesthetic appealed to me through its highly graphic lines that use only the original elements, which are light, shape and resistant materials,” she wrote in an email.

And while geometric jewels have been trending for some time, her pieces appear to reflect a pared-back approach. “Minimalism is expressed as an art of living that involves choosing to safeguard essentials, meaning all that is precious and enduring rather than ephemeral,” she wrote. “Ice Cube jewelry embodies this desire to focus on that which is simple, pure, beautiful and lasting.”

The Ice Cube collection includes a variety of pieces, such as rings, hoop earrings, individual ear cuffs and bangles offered in a range of sizes, allowing the wearer to layer or stack pieces according to taste.

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Molly Haylor, the style director at the British edition of Grazia magazine, said the size range reflects the architectural connections of the design trend. “The more adventurous you are with the different ways of stacking, the more exciting it will look and add an element of power to your outfit,” she said. “Because of the shapes and the way they’ve been molded, they all pick up light differently. It does recall the skyscrapers in iconic cities like New York and Chicago or even Tokyo.”

Recent collections at Louis Vuitton and Dior also highlighted graphic looks, notably playing with house design codes.

Louis Vuitton interpreted Damier, the checklike pattern first conceived more than 135 years ago for its trunks and that today adorns products ranging from its ready-to-wear styles to accessories. Now, the motif has found expression in Le Damier de Louis Vuitton fine jewelry collection, featuring diamonds in square settings juxtaposed with polished gold.

The rings are the collection’s most varied pieces, offered in 18-karat white or yellow gold, in different sizes and heights. “When you put them all together they’re like a Lego piece that builds this beautiful structure,” said Ms. Haylor, who added that a graphic, cuff look also could be achieved by stacking Le Damier’s tennis bracelet-inspired bangles.

At Dior, the feminine My Dior collection incorporated the maison’s signature cannage pattern, a lattice look seen on its handbags that is a nod to Christian Dior’s first fashion show. During that event in 1947 at Dior headquarters in Paris, guests sat on Napoleon III chairs with the mesh pattern, which now has made its way to My Dior’s line of rings, earrings and bracelets.

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For each piece, the lattice of fine golden strands is created by hand, then a strip of mirror-polished gold is inserted behind the grid to create a play of light between the strands and the strip. (The light is enhanced even more by the diamonds set in some pieces). The collection debuted in September in 18-karat pink gold or white gold, then in late November expanded into yellow gold, with black lacquer for contrast.

Such large heritage houses are not the only ones to adopt the style.

Jessica McCormack’s new Tapestry collection may recall the embroidered friendship bracelets of the 1980s, but the London-based jeweler said she had been inspired by all manner of graphic forms: mosaics, 1920s floor tiles, murals, even the Tetris video game. The result was a blend of pattern and color, with bold patterns such as the chevron created from emeralds and pink and blue sapphires.

Executing the designs was a complex process, however, as each stone had to be set onto a tiny gold tile, then strung together. “It creates this fabric, liquid-like movement,” said Ms. McCormack, adding, “It was a bit of a nightmare. But I do think the best things always are.”

The colors really pop, she noted, thanks to the rhodium treatment that creates an outline around each tile: blackened white and yellow gold for the blue sapphires and emeralds and blackened white and rose gold for the pink sapphires.

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The biggest surprise of the collection, Ms. McCormack said, was seeing clients wearing the bracelets alongside their watches, something she attributes to the bangle’s design and its flat clasp. “It sits beautifully with either an Apple watch or Cartier Tank,” she said. “It can work with a watch, which not all bracelets do well.”

Not far from Ms. McCormack’s boutique in the Mayfair district of London is Hirsh, which has unveiled a new line of diamond-set earrings, bangles and rings in architectural eight- or nine-side shapes.

The design took years to perfect, said Sophia Hirsh, the company’s managing director, with time spent considering the form of the designs, their wearability and ergonomics.

Thanks to the various angles, the jewels deliver wonderful reflections of light, she said. “When the light hits the diamonds and you have these slightly different angles, it will always pick up a lot of extra sparkle,” Ms. Hirsh noted. “It’s a little bit more playful to wear. You want to touch it and feel the different angles.”

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This Pride month, teen flicks are recasting familiar tropes with a queer sensibility

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This Pride month, teen flicks are recasting familiar tropes with a queer sensibility

Stacy Clausen and Joe Bird in Leviticus.

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Summer movies aimed at high-schoolers — comedies, romances, horror flicks — have been a tradition for ages. Think Fast Times at Ridgemont High, Dirty Dancing and the original Friday the 13th, which all drew hot-weather crowds back in the 1980s.

This summer, the movies are queer — not just in casting, but in method and purpose. These three teen flicks transform familiar movie styles by bringing them an LGBTQ sensibility.

A raunchy comedy: She’s the He

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You know the drill: a bonkers lose-my-virginity plan is hatched by inseparable high-school best buds who are so eager to get girls to notice them, they can hardly think straight.

So, they don’t think … straight. For reasons that could only make sense to horny 17-year-olds, Ethan and Alex decide the way to catch the attention of the school’s hottest girls is to pretend to be trans.

Filmmaker Siobhan McCarthy uses that premise to tell a sweet story about Ethan (who realizes mid-scam that she really is trans), while also mocking some of the more ridiculous transphobic notions — “bathroom scare,” anyone? — that have been politically weaponized recently.

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When the whole football team decides that donning women’s attire is a small price to pay to get access to the girls’ locker room, McCarthy prompts boisterous laughs while also establishing how idiotic and unlikely this scenario would be in real life. Casting trans men — say, team captain played by Emmett Preciado — as the cis male characters allows McCarthy to further poke at conservative anxieties.

As leads Alex and Ethan, Nico Carney (a sharp trans comic whose read on toxic masculinity proves hilarious), and Misha Osherovich (sweetly affecting as Ethan discovers her true self) head a terrific, mostly trans and non-binary cast. And a similarly queer team behind the camera helps make She’s the He a raucous, touching, seriously fun charmer — think Some Like It Hot meets American Pie with a Heartstopper vibe.

The romance: Girls Like Girls

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This gentle teen love story sprang from a hit song Hayley Kiyoko released in 2015. The music video that accompanied the song pictured a budding lesbian romance and has since racked up over 160 million YouTube views. In 2023, Kiyoko penned a young adult book version, which debuted at the top of bestseller lists. Now, she’s brought all of those elements together in a movie about Coley (Maya da Costa) and Sonya (Myra Molloy), two 17-year-old girls navigating a summer romance that takes both of them by surprise.

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L.A. Affairs: Would taking a trip with this new guy finally push us out of the ‘polite’ phase?

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L.A. Affairs: Would taking a trip with this new guy finally push us out of the ‘polite’ phase?

Sometimes compatibility unfolds over long conversations at coffee shops or even on the dance floor. Mine and Fernando’s became apparent on our seventh date, standing on a dark corner in downtown L.A. After a short flight, a day at Venice Beach and the fastest glow-up ever for a mom of three, my date opened his hands, sighed and canceled the glorious evening I’d planned. It was supposed to start with a jazz club and end with a tour of late-night sushi bars, until Fernando said, “I feel like a bummer.”

I hooked my arm through the crook of his, turning back toward the empty streets and our stuffy Airbnb.

A few weeks before, on one of our first dates, I’d told Fernando I was presenting at a conference in L.A. “You should join me,” I said, half joking.

“Really?” he asked. “You don’t know me at all.”

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He was right. We were in the polite phase. We bonded over being transplants to Seattle — him from the Dominican Republic, me from Florida, but we were still figuring out the basics. I hadn’t learned yet that he never touches coffee but totally loves cake, my least favorite treat. And for me, espresso is a daily requirement.

Fernando didn’t say yes to my invitation right away. We continued to date, playing the questions game. “What’s your favorite snack?” he asked me.

“Mole tacos,” I said. “What’s your biggest flaw?”

“Follow through,” he said. “Yours?”

“I’m annoyingly persistent.”

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“Perfect match,” he said.

The more we talked, the more we realized that our shortcomings, which made us look like exact opposites, came from the same root. His father had been barely present during childhood, and my father had died when I was a teenager. We both wrestled with trying to find agency inside of moments in our adult lives that felt like abandonment. Although we’d each been in therapy for years before we met, we also struggled to deal with disappointment.

“Maybe we should go on this wild trip together,” he said.

“Make-it-or-break-it style,” I said.

When we stepped through the door of our downtown L.A. Airbnb after a long, hot day walking the boardwalk, we had our first chance to manage a letdown, together.

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“I think people actually live here,” he said.

“Like it’s 2015,” I said.

We’d made a commitment before we flew out to keep things light. If one of us complained, the other was supposed to say something fun. But the apartment was muggy, the surfaces covered in dust. We made exaggerated, positive comments about the vintage decor as I waited for the water to warm in a huge, clawfoot tub.

Fernando said something about getting in while the shower was still cold, so we could preserve water for the good people of California. I noted the fatherly tone — and realized I probably seemed wasteful for resisting the chilly stream during a drought.

While I bathed, he shaved. Then we switched. “I feel shy but not shy,” Fernando said, and I agreed. I wondered if this would be the first of many small, sweet moments — or if it was the only time we’d ever share this kind of intimacy.

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We were finally ready for our night on the town, but we only walked six blocks before Fernando turned to me and told me that he was too tired to keep going.

“I owe you,” he said, as we walked back, but I was wiped too and relieved he said it first.

“What if we do something different and call it exciting?” I asked.

We talked about the absolute thrill of ordering takeout in a city that was 30 degrees warmer than the one where we both lived, listing every little thing that was totally amazing around us. All those closed-down garages that would open in the morning selling fabric? Gorgeous.

The dark streetlights on one side of the road that made the shadows look like a modern noir film? Fabulous.

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The fact that we were about to fall asleep in the same city as dozens of celebrities we both adored? Relatively meaningless but still badass.

As we ate our to-go sushi in downtown L.A., I realized I wasn’t disappointed at all. My drive to follow through was all about the mission, and our mission had changed. Instead of wooing my new date with a super swanky night on the town, I had the opportunity to connect with him in a real way.

Our trip to L.A. had become a kind of test, way more intense than agreeing on a sofa or building an IKEA shelf. We were stuck spending time with each other without performing, in a strange city, for days.

After I presented at the conference the next morning, Fernando and I moved to a new rental in the Hollywood Hills, where we found our way to endless taco stands and two speakeasies, Good Times at Davey Wayne’s and Adults Only. The only landmark we saw was Muscle Beach, and the only quintessential L.A. thing we did was accidentally find ourselves in front of the Last Bookstore an hour before we needed to head to the airport, so we spent that hour walking around inside.

“Let’s keep traveling,” we said to each other on the way home.

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Seven years and dozens of trips later, I engraved “I will travel with you” on the inside of our wedding rings. The night before our wedding, we stood together in a tiny bathroom in his sister’s house in the Dominican Republic, washing our faces. I looked at him in the mirror. He turned and looked at me. “I’m really glad you invited me to Los Angeles,” he said.

“It was a risk,” I said, “and the best trip ever.”

The city isn’t ours, but it made us who we are, together.

The author is a journalist and illustrator working on a memoir about Florida. She splits her time between her Seattle, L.A. and the Deep South. Her Instagram is @adjsbb and website is AshaDore.net.

L.A. Affairs chronicles the search for romantic love in all its glorious expressions in the L.A. area, and we want to hear your true story. We pay $400 for a published essay. Email LAAffairs@latimes.com. You can find submission guidelines here. You can find past columns here.

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What does freedom actually look like? : It’s Been a Minute

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What does freedom actually look like? : It’s Been a Minute

What freedom looks like today.

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What does freedom mean today?

Happy Juneteenth! For those not in the know, today commemorates when U.S. federal troops arrived in Galveston, Texas in 1865 to take control of the state and ensure that all enslaved people were freed – a full two and a half years after the signing of the Emancipation Proclamation. Since then, Juneteenth has been celebrated all over the country, especially in Texas and across the South, where Juneteenth parades, cookouts, festivals and pageants happen every year. Two weeks from now, the country will celebrate the Fourth of July – and its 250th anniversary. For many Black Americans, there’s always been a tension between these holidays – and their two different ideals for what it means to be free. As voting rights protections are rolled back and Black history is being scrubbed from government websites, what does freedom look like for Black Americans today?

To get into it, Brittany is joined by Dr. Kellie Carter Jackson, chair of Africana Studies at Wellesley College.

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For more episodes about the quality of Black life in America, check out:
Jesse Jackson & the end of the civil rights superhero
Is the economy slowing? Ask Black women.
What to expect when you’re expecting racism

Support Public Media. Join NPR Plus.

Follow Brittany on Instagram: @bmluse

For handpicked podcast recommendations every week, subscribe to NPR’s Pod Club newsletter at npr.org/podclub.

This episode was produced by Corey Antonio Rose and Liam McBain. It was edited by Neena Pathak. We had engineering support from Josephine Nyounai. Our Supervising Producer is Cher Vincent. Our Executive Producer is Barton Girdwood. Our VP of Programming is Yolanda Sangweni.

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